Hands-On: NEW Precision Matthews PM-728VT Precision Bench Mill
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
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Here it is! Hands-on with the new-for-2020 Precision Matthews PM-728VT Ultra-Precision Bench Mill! In this video I cover uncrating, setup, overview, and demos of drilling, end milling operations, and face milling.
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The following Ultimate Reloader partners are featured in this video:
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Excellent. I bought one of these a few months ago. It has been excellent. They will soon have a CNC kit for it with the ballscrews and motor mounts that will make it much easier to convert this unit. I'm looking forward to that. It is 120V so easy to power. It's a bit heavy so be prepared to move it safely and bolt it down. If you don't know how to use a milling machine there are lots of training videos on the net, get a machine and get started.
Exactly what I am doing! Been a fun experience so far, SO MUCH to learn!
@@perchowski3021 Is the CNC kit available yet?
@@jaggedcliff Yes it's available now.
Thanks mate. I'm 82 and retired at 75. I was in steel fabrication but always had a fetish for powered home DIY machines. Got a lot except a mill and this one looks great. As you've had yours for a year any tips and advice? Ta.
I absolutely love your honest and informative videos!👍👍👍👍👍
@@taxicamel 100%FACTS!👍👍👍
This is what I been needing a small mill that I can fit in the house. I'm buying one. Thanks Gavin
Attack Helicopter have you priced one?
I'm all stoked about it and waiting for that pucker moment after discovering the price
Beets the hell out of my harbor freight toy!!!!! As always, a great and informative video!!!
Not a bad option for occasional work. I like that it's 110 power. Even if it was 220 that wouldn't be bad.
wow, there sure is alot of haters in the comments. 1 if you need a "professional" mill, you are probably in the less than 1% range this is a hobby mill not a $60,000 unit that needs 3 phase. 2 if you shreek at $3000 for a mill, you need to visit Harbor freight. $3-6k for a quality "hobby"/home mill is very affordable. Great vid Gavin, I just ordered my PM-932V should be here this week. keep up the good work.
Thank you sir.
Looks like a great machine. It should be able to handle just about anything a home hobbyist can throw at it.
Like the container walls.
Most excellent.
Well now I know where to send my barrels and gas blocks for pinning :)
10:17 mark you don't have the hand chuck tightened enough. Bit slides up the jaws. Great machine, love PM.
Would have been useful to see how you extracted it from the double stacked pallets and onto the stand.
Will the stand lend itself to having a few drawers installed for localised tooling?
Would like to see more content with this machine. I’ve been eyeballing it since PM released it.
I know Im randomly asking but does anyone know of a method to log back into an Instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tips you can offer me!
@Calvin Beckett thanks so much for your reply. I got to the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Looks like it's gonna take a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Calvin Beckett It did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account :D
@Maxton Augustine Glad I could help :)
Let me tell my wife, u need to park in the driveway because I need space for a new toy.
Just curious ... You have a PM-949TV mill already so are you going to use this as a cnc conversion mill?
I been looking at getting one.
Price point is spot on for a first mill
looks nice milling alu. but how good does it mill steel..?
I know this is a year old show but is the 1hp motor enough to do most work?
Very informative...like his direct approach to passing on information. Great looking machine...I may have to add this to my list of shop tools to buy.
OK ...now for the reality check. I bought a Precision Matthews mill predecessor within the last ten years ....and they no longer support it. The quill locking lever wore out very quickly ...because it was a piece of junk. Matthews were very sad they could not help me with a replacement part. I now wonder what else they can't help me with.
My machine is an excellent machine which is in most part, the same "basic" machine ...excluding the spindle design. I have fully geared spindle ....meaning I have fully motor torque at the spindle in ALL speed ranges. THIS machine will NOT have fully motor torque .....hence why there are TWO speed ranges.
Also, there was mention at 2:44 something about a "fine downfeed control" which was NOT "demonstrated". I don't see it ...as a matter of fact, I would suggest this machine does NOT have any power downfeed ....which is a very serious missing feature.
One great feature on this machine is the central lubrication system.
Second great feature is the digital readout on the quill travel.
The third great feature is they have immensely improved the head raise/lower mechanism. Previously had a very poor design that had a very large handle to overcome the effort required to physically raise and lower the head. This "new" design appears to use a "ball-screw" design. I made a gear-reduced system that will take a drill chuck, making it a "powered rise/lower" system.
RECOMMENDATION: DO NOT BUY ANY MILLING MACHINE, LIKE THIS, WITHOUT A POWERFEED!!!! Also, do NOT purchase any mill without a 3-axis DRO system. By today's standards, these are very inexpensive .....and today's hobbyist ...who is NOT a machinist ...will make actual machining far easier to make almost any part. And lastly, a Vertical/Horizontal rotary table, at least 6".
Expect to spend more money on cutting tools ....a lot more money.
.
You need to give us a tour of your shop !!!!
UR Shop Tour: Behind the Scenes at Ultimate Reloader: ruclips.net/video/YrjWboMlmSw/видео.html
That's alot of bed travel. I have a similar machine. Its nice to have
Hey Gavin since you have the knee mill you should do a cnc conversion on it
Why would you suggest such a thing?
Seems like your bits were vibrating. Also a lot of chatter and the machine even shook a lot when using the handwheel. I was considering this machine but seems too small for my needs. Thanks for the review.
can it mill a curve line on metal?
How did you lift the machine onto its stand?
Does the head tip for angles?
Just got one of these with DRO a few months ago! Went with PM 728 specifically because it was made in Taiwan instead of China. Havent had any issues so probably a good choice!
I'm new to machining so no idea about how good it is and have nothing to compare it to,, but it definitely works and machines a smooth finish!
Trying to figure out what end mills to get as well as a facemill, any suggestions that won't break the bank is much appreciated!
Was considering the Grizzly facemill or possibly the Glacern 2.5IN 1 piece R8 face mill. Couldn't believe how much end mills cost though! 😳
Awesome James! The Accusize 1.5” and 3” fave mills work well for me...
So you're "new" to machining and your first mill is this one??!! You lucky bastard! LOL! I hope there's money in our budget the first few years of retirement so I can get one, but I may have to settle for one of the smaller ones to start with.
So accurate is it?
I would like more content about this machines functions and use as well please.
OK ...now for the reality check. I bought a Precision Matthews mill predecessor within the last ten years ....and they no longer support it. The quill locking lever wore out very quickly ...because it was a piece of junk. Matthews were very sad they could not help me with a replacement part. I now wonder what else they can't help me with.
My machine is an excellent machine which is in most part, the same "basic" machine ...excluding the spindle design. I have fully geared spindle ....meaning I have fully motor torque at the spindle in ALL speed ranges. THIS machine will NOT have fully motor torque .....hence why there are TWO speed ranges.
Also, there was mention at 2:44 something about a "fine downfeed control" which was NOT "demonstrated". I don't see it ...as a matter of fact, I would suggest this machine does NOT have any power downfeed ....which is a very serious missing feature.
One great feature on this machine is the central lubrication system.
Second great feature is the digital readout on the quill travel.
The third great feature is they have immensely improved the head raise/lower mechanism. Previously had a very poor design that had a very large handle to overcome the effort required to physically raise and lower the head. This "new" design appears to use a "ball-screw" design. I made a gear-reduced system that will take a drill chuck, making it a "powered rise/lower" system.
RECOMMENDATION: DO NOT BUY ANY MILLING MACHINE, LIKE THIS, WITHOUT A POWERFEED!!!! Also, do NOT purchase any mill without a 3-axis DRO system. By today's standards, these are very inexpensive .....and today's hobbyist ...who is NOT a machinist ...will make actual machining far easier to make almost any part. And lastly, a Vertical/Horizontal rotary table, at least 6".
Expect to spend more money on cutting tools ....a lot more money.
.
Does the black cap on top of the pulley / spindle access cover come off and expose the draw bar nut?
3:42
@@asherdie ah...missed that. Yep.
Thanks, great video. How hard would it be to remove and reinstall the mill head so that I could get this down my basement stairs. It looks like just the two rotation bolts? I think it would reduse the weight significantly. What do you think?
I don't see any reply yet to your question.
FIRST, think about your basement stairs. Are the stairs fully exposed so you can see the stair structure to see how strong they are ....or are they all closed in and you have no idea how well they are built?
SECOND, anything can be taken apart to lighten up the load ....but still the above question.
THIRD, how many people (strong people) are available for the task? You are going to need help .....and how much "weight" are these people going to add to the move.
Were you planning on "sliding" the machine down on a skid perhaps, or perhaps putting a very long flat piece of something on the stairs and sliding down on the long piece ....using a rope from the top ....and minimal extra people on the stairs (?????)
Plan ahead😍 ....but make sure you buy the right machine. Here is some feedback on the machine.
OK ...now for the reality check. I bought a Precision Matthews mill predecessor within the last ten years ....and they no longer support it. The quill locking lever wore out very quickly ...because it was a piece of junk. Matthews were very sad they could not help me with a replacement part. I now wonder what else they can't help me with.
My machine is an excellent machine which is in most part, the same "basic" machine ...excluding the spindle design. I have fully geared spindle ....meaning I have fully motor torque at the spindle in ALL speed ranges. THIS machine will NOT have fully motor torque .....hence why there are TWO speed ranges.
Also, there was mention at 2:44 something about a "fine downfeed control" which was NOT "demonstrated". I don't see it ...as a matter of fact, I would suggest this machine does NOT have any power downfeed ....which is a very serious missing feature.
One great feature on this machine is the central lubrication system.
Second great feature is the digital readout on the quill travel.
The third great feature is they have immensely improved the head raise/lower mechanism. Previously had a very poor design that had a very large handle to overcome the effort required to physically raise and lower the head. This "new" design appears to use a "ball-screw" design. I made a gear-reduced system that will take a drill chuck, making it a "powered rise/lower" system.
RECOMMENDATION: DO NOT BUY ANY MILLING MACHINE, LIKE THIS, WITHOUT A POWERFEED!!!! Also, do NOT purchase any mill without a 3-axis DRO system. By today's standards, these are very inexpensive .....and today's hobbyist ...who is NOT a machinist ...will make actual machining far easier to make almost any part. And lastly, a Vertical/Horizontal rotary table, at least 6".
Expect to spend more money on cutting tools ....a lot more money.
.
@@taxicamel All good points to consider, still haven't purchased, thank you for comprehensive answer!
I have this machine as well. When I extend the quill to it's max depth of 3" I start getting vibration and noise in the head. Do this happen on your machine? Thanks!
I do too. Believe it has to do with the return spring that pulls it back up. Someone else's video I watched about it and guy removed it and said it fixed the tightness and vibration.
Yeah mine is horrible:( even when I'm using an end mill with the chuck thingy all the way up it still has some vibration!!???
Very nice video... I am getting ready to buy this machine. Do you think a 5 inch vise would work well with this size table? I believe Glacern makes a nice one.
OK ...now for the reality check. I bought a Precision Matthews mill predecessor within the last ten years ....and they no longer support it. The quill locking lever wore out very quickly ...because it was a piece of junk. Matthews were very sad they could not help me with a replacement part. I now wonder what else they can't help me with.
My machine is an excellent machine which is in most part, the same "basic" machine ...excluding the spindle design. I have fully geared spindle ....meaning I have fully motor torque at the spindle in ALL speed ranges. THIS machine will NOT have fully motor torque .....hence why there are TWO speed ranges.
Also, there was mention at 2:44 something about a "fine downfeed control" which was NOT "demonstrated". I don't see it ...as a matter of fact, I would suggest this machine does NOT have any power downfeed ....which is a very serious missing feature.
One great feature on this machine is the central lubrication system.
Second great feature is the digital readout on the quill travel.
The third great feature is they have immensely improved the head raise/lower mechanism. Previously had a very poor design that had a very large handle to overcome the effort required to physically raise and lower the head. This "new" design appears to use a "ball-screw" design. I made a gear-reduced system that will take a drill chuck, making it a "powered rise/lower" system.
RECOMMENDATION: DO NOT BUY ANY MILLING MACHINE, LIKE THIS, WITHOUT A POWERFEED!!!! Also, do NOT purchase any mill without a 3-axis DRO system. By today's standards, these are very inexpensive .....and today's hobbyist ...who is NOT a machinist ...will make actual machining far easier to make almost any part. And lastly, a Vertical/Horizontal rotary table, at least 6".
Expect to spend more money on cutting tools ....a lot more money.
.
Do you need to buy the stand for a solid mount, or can you set it on a heavy, solid wooden bench?
Weld your own stand. It's cheaper and you can make it as ridgit as you want. Wood isn't as ridgid.
When you stared to face the work piece the electric motor pickup the slack in no time at all. And it’s been that way though. I’ll come and get mine when I get there. Ha Ha!
Wish I knew how to use a milling machine like that and I’d buy one. And of course a lathe. I’d like to be able to do all of my own manufacturing and gunsmithing one day.
The best time to plant a tree is 20 years ago. The second best time is today. See if there is an adult Vo-Tech class or community college near you that offer classes.
I bought one and I've never used a mill in my life! Gotta learn somehow, and I always learned best with hands on experience. If you like to make/build stuff then you won't regret buying one.
@@charlesmckinley29 you got 2-5 grand to drop today?
@@pacman10182 for?
@@charlesmckinley29 a PM mill, keep up
Great timing! I’m about to buy one of these as I can’t fit a Bridgeport style mill in my shop for now. Did you have to do any adjusting, scraping or anything else to setup the mill?
Probably just clean up the way before use and make sure the gib (not the way )
lock tight
Get a deckel FP1 or FP2 instead. Or a Schaublin 13. This is just a toy compared and this is just a silly video that doesn't show anything about accuracy or true performance..
RH facts, there’s nothing here but a show of what the box tells you and a showing how fast he can unwrap this Taiwanese blueberry. (NOT SN INFORMATIVE VIDEO)
@@VærdAtSe Just a guess, but I'm sure the price difference between the PM-728VT and the Deckel or Schaublin is probably pretty substantial.
The same is true for others in the comments suggesting someone wait/save up for a Bridgeport or one of the clones... Even a used Bridgeport in good condition and especially a fully rebuilt, factory spec machine is a crap ton of cash.
For small projects, I'm sure the PM-728VT is plenty good enough, or very good if you know what you're doing.
@@VærdAtSe A video of poor rpm choices due to the mills lack of torque 3" face mill at over 2600,and the drill was cussing him.
Gavin
Ya shoulda just milled out an 80, right quick.
Naw with that thing he could mill a 0% block of metal into a lower!
Videonator
I stipulated the qualifier "right quick"
Being
It is just an 25 minute vid, and all.
And
I've done an 80 in 15 minutes, on the mini-mill.
That man said screw speed and Feed calculations
Decent video of the machine. I agree it would be nice to see the accuracy/rigidity of the machine.......maybe after the DRO is installed.......but in truth if you are looking at this machine you shouldn't expect champagne at a beer price.
I've been thinking about a similar machine for rifle stock work (bedding cleanup, adding flush cups, opening barrel channels, etc.)......just to keep the trash out of my Sharp LMV.
I like the videos you post, keep up the good work.
$4,000 w/shipping bare bones is a little more than beer money. lol
OK ...now for the reality check. I bought a Precision Matthews mill predecessor within the last ten years ....and they no longer support it. The quill locking lever wore out very quickly ...because it was a piece of junk. Matthews were very sad they could not help me with a replacement part. I now wonder what else they can't help me with.
My machine is an excellent machine which is in most part, the same "basic" machine ...excluding the spindle design. I have fully geared spindle ....meaning I have fully motor torque at the spindle in ALL speed ranges. THIS machine will NOT have fully motor torque .....hence why there are TWO speed ranges.
Also, there was mention at 2:44 something about a "fine downfeed control" which was NOT "demonstrated". I don't see it ...as a matter of fact, I would suggest this machine does NOT have any power downfeed ....which is a very serious missing feature.
One great feature on this machine is the central lubrication system.
Second great feature is the digital readout on the quill travel.
The third great feature is they have immensely improved the head raise/lower mechanism. Previously had a very poor design that had a very large handle to overcome the effort required to physically raise and lower the head. This "new" design appears to use a "ball-screw" design. I made a gear-reduced system that will take a drill chuck, making it a "powered rise/lower" system.
RECOMMENDATION: DO NOT BUY ANY MILLING MACHINE, LIKE THIS, WITHOUT A POWERFEED!!!! Also, do NOT purchase any mill without a 3-axis DRO system. By today's standards, these are very inexpensive .....and today's hobbyist ...who is NOT a machinist ...will make actual machining far easier to make almost any part. And lastly, a Vertical/Horizontal rotary table, at least 6".
Expect to spend more money on cutting tools ....a lot more money.
.
We see how it cuts Aluminum but that's hobby material, how does it work on steel or Stainless?
You don't want to do that on a column mill. You need a knee mill for that sort of work. They are just not rigid enough, it's inherently weak.
@@freddyrosenberg9288 Yes I agree Those benchtops are toys
It works on steel/SS, just have to take smaller cuts is all.
Bet that baby is expensive but got all the bells and whistles. Good week to you!
Forgive my ignorance, but what is this machine used for?
Lemme google that for you. www.engineeringarticles.org/milling-machine-definition-process-types/
"high quality locks" ya that matters...
Gavin...Great video.Real Nice Machine.
How long is you Sea-Land Container whatbyou have it in.Im planning on buying one to make as my reloading room.What would you change since you built it?
He has a shop tour video if you search his posts.
What's the power supply spec? Will it run on 110vac?
Yes! 120VAC!
Standard 120 vac 15 amp outlet
@@alanb76 Alan, can you confirm the 15a works? (I saw in the prior comments you have one). I was wondering this myself since the specs say 20amp and I don't have 20amp service. Thanks
@@mitchell5828 The specs do indicate a 20A circuit. My PM-728VT came with a standard 15A plug, 20A plugs are not too common, you can recognize them because one of the prongs is twisted 90 degrees so the two prongs are no longer parallel. A 20 amp circuit requirement would only be a factor under very heavy cutting load, which is beyond anything I have done. You can control the load by adjusting the cutting speeds and feeds. My circuits are actually 20 amp, frequently the circuit is 20 amps even if the outlets are 15 amps. It might be possible to trip a 15 amp circuit breaker under very heavy cutting loads or with a stuck tool, but I don't expect that would happen under most conditions. The electronically controlled BLDC motor starts softly so inrush current is not high.
@@alanb76 Thank you very much. I assumed I could keep it under 15a, just wasn't sure about start-up current.
Wish the screws were not freedom uints :(
Put thr stuff in thr cabinet
How much $$$?
can i get this machine in india....?
11 mm draw bar nut? That is a weird size. Oh wait, makes perfect sense. If you damage the supplied wrench and borrow an 11 out of your regular set then you will never miss it. ha ha
Plus the 10mm is always missing
...i know you're using this for stocks and such...wonder how it would fair against a Glock slide...
Do you think this mill would be enough for glock slides? I'm currently in sdi and I am looking at agi. I ordered a grizzly lathe and would like to know what a good mill would be to complete most gunsmithing tasks.
@@jakearchambault8160 I don’t know if his little mill will...I have the precision Mathews pm-32 and it works REALLY well...I have done several stock Glock slide rmr cuts and it was great...just respect your speeds and feeds...Glock slides are tough...those tougher metals are going to require stability for accuracy, which means weight, pm40 would get it done to and is a variable speed...just food for thought...
What does a machine like this cost?
About 3k for just the machine. DRO, stand, power feed, etc are all extra.
As Gavin is going to spec it out you're looking at about $4,500.
Spent 4.5k for machine and DRO with clamping kit, homge 4in vise, 0-1/2in keyless drill chuck, and the stand for it. Not cheap, but i don't have enough room for a used bridgeport let alone any help to move it. So IMO the 728 is perfect for my needs. Just need to get some tooling and measuring guages now, as well as a lathe lol..
We have an kneeless mill at work. There's not enough z travel once you get a vise on there with a large part or long drill or reamer. I wouldn't even consider a mill of this type.
Sadavring
Why did you get this one, when you already have the larger mill? Or are you now amassing mills like you have reloading presses?
Yes. He was given it to "review " he has become a paid promotion machine now. Still watching, but know what you are watching
@Andrew 1911 it sure was. And they vides does feed a bit cheap
' super precision'. Well, let's see some of that high accuracy then. 😁
Why even mount a 3" facemill when only using 1/3~1/4 of it's size?
With that effort it can handle a 10" face mill 🙄😳
Not that he was thinking this but if the face mill is larger than the part you can stop the cut once the leading edge of the cutter completes it cut. No need to wait for the trailing edge to pass. Also works for fly cutters.
I'm like 2 min away
You must be single with all the cool shit you have.
I don't like column mills, they are very limited as to what you can machine on them. For the most part it's aluminum and slowly/carefully. Lots of flex on that long, thin column... you will be fighting chatter on a regular basis. 16:26 not good.
I don't know where you get your "opinion" from ....but that's all it is .....your "opinion" ....and it is 99% incorrect. There is lots of mass in the head. The likelihood of "chatter" ever occurring is if all the machining parameters have been exceeded ....feed, speed, and depth of cut. There is only one feature on this machine that could be improved is the column. It COULD be made larger.
With all the above being said, have you ever looked at an industrial vertical machining center ....rated 5HP and up? They are ALL column designed ....since day one.
.
Gavin, how about an extended Tee Hex to do the belt change with it beyond the motor.
Nice little unit,
One thing make me chuckle is all the numbers tagged to these machines sounds like
Rappers Delight ruclips.net/video/mcCK99wHrk0/видео.html
ATB from the uk
Ok
Better finish if you do climb milling than conventional milling..
Can I borrow that?
$3000
Taiwan products are of good quality
Nine yeards
Looked like a bit of runout when you drilled 😨
not much different from the PM-25MV
Looks like a decent product, but this clearly wasn't an unbiased review. More of a sales pitch.
I have looked at the Precision Matthews at the website and all they say is that their tools are made in China.
I'm just going to laugh a little that a guy with these amazing high end tools I wouldn't have a clue how to use is tightening the stand screws with his fingers and ratchets, when I'd have my handy little 7V Black and Decker cordless wrapping that up in 2 minutes. 😜
I like your videos but your tests are not very practical in showing the capabilities of the machine. For instance, the facemill, you would typically be using it to face some thing at least 2/3 of its diameter and preferably in steel. Your RPMs were also way too high
As a machinist.....I perhaps have a different definition of "Precision"
I also cannot get on-board with Chinese (or Taiwanese) products that are designed to a price. Personally, I would rather just wait until I could afford something proper.
And most people that are getting into milling as a hobby don't even know if they will stick with it, let alone need anything bigger or more precise.
Not to mention the weight/size of a "proper," or full size knee mill takes up alot more space and alot of people dont have the space needed for a full size.
I also was very hesitant about buying a used knee mill as I know absolutely nothing. If a used mill needs anything or servicing, has an issue, etc. I wouldn't know how to fix it.
There's 3 phase power on the electrical poles across the street from me, but thats another big expense u have to deal with when going with a used bridgeport/clone. Is 3 phase power available?? If yes, how much will it cost for a line to be ran to my home? Another big expense.
I knew I wouldn't be machining multiples of a part, If I knew I'd be doing some production runs I'd go with a CNC mill. I just use it for one-off parts to build stuff out of metal and wood. How fast it can remove material doesn't affect how much money I make so I dont mind if I have to spend 1hr. Longer taking smaller cuts.
It also has a 5yr. Warranty which was a big plus.
For my uses, the smaller benchtop style mill came out ahead on the pros/cons list.
Guess it really depends on your skill and what you would be using said machine for. Also nice that parts are easy to come by, unlike parts for some bridgeports..
Factory400, many of these less expensive lathes/mills are good to 2/10,000 of an inch once they are set up. Most machinist know how to do Metrology, and can squeeze "better than factory" accuracy out of these Asian Machine tools. They don't do the kind of thick blue chip cuts which were normal when I was a Machinist, but then, they are normally not for large-scale and large-volume line work. These are for hobbyists (or former Machinists who want something around the house). I have been looking in my area for a Bridgeport mill, but all of the ones in my area are very tired, and need their dovetails re-ground to get out all of the gouges/scrapes on their surface (and to remove the sway-back in the high wear areas). The mill he demonstrated is not just "milled" dovetails, they are also ground AND hand scraped... they are a thing of beauty. This mill is far more capable than you imagine.
@@addertooth1 I just got this mill a few months ago, have never used a mill until a bought this one and am able to hold 1 thousandth with ~15hrs. Life experience using a mill. IMO not too shabby!
Thats as accurate as i can measure, it may be more precise than 1 thousandth i just dont have any device capable of measuring to the ten thousandth.
I'm not making parts for the space shuttle like @Factory400 is, so holding 1 thousandth tolerance is good enough for the girls i go out with 😉.
Also have no need for a bridgeport sized mill. I don't have enough raw material, nor do I plan on making anything where I would need something that big and heavy to hog out that much material or work on something that would require that size of mill.
If Factory400 and/or other machinists need that type of material removal and accuracy in their homes, more power to them! Id rather have something i can move myself if needed, run off of a regular outlet, has a 5yr. warranty, is still being produced so parts arent hard to find, doesn't take up as much space, but is accurate enough to hold .001.
Taiwan is not china, they're a free market economy capable of putting out quality goods. I'd buy from taiwan just as quickly as from the western world. That being said, a bigger 220v machine seems to be almost the same price from the same company so I'm not sure even for the use case of a small "bench top" that I'd get this particular mill.