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@@theonepstein5100 If you store your collets or cutters on a magnetized holder, they will eventually become somewhat magnetized. They will attract tiny steel chips. If you don't get all these chips off the collets or cutters , when you insert them, the collet or cutter will no longer be centered, which introduces runout. That will make holes drilled slightly oversized. If you are drilling or reaming a hole for a press fit pin, those holes must be VERY precise in diameter, or the pressfits won't hold properly. Non-metallic or aluminum particles can also affect the runout but they are more easily removed.
Given some of the shots of his endmills stored in wooden boxes that have chips left on them, this House chap could do with being a bit more rigorous with his tool cleaning anyway. Using magnetised dishes to keep tooling in is something no machinist would do; it just adds more work to the task of keeping the tooling clean. This is the problem with people who have no real experience of machining giving advice on RUclips; they give a mixture of good and bad advice and beginners can struggle to know what's worth listening to.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ruclips.net/user/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
My former mill was a rf25, virtually the same as you have except mine had a morse 3 taper in the quill. The modifications I made to it, was to change the motor to three phase, so having a reverse, also variable speed on the motor, as well as the belt change. Power feed on the x axis. The reason I changed it, I wanted a DRO, and not to have to tram the head when lifting it. Bruce Witham from West Australia has since built a kit that stops that problem. I did have my mill for over 25 years... Good Luck with it....
The machine shop I bought my ENCO 13x40 lathe from has a Bridgeport style MSC knee mill that they said they'd sell to me really cheap. I just don't have the room in my garage for this thing. We'd like to build a shop in the backyard but ya know...money. Great video. I'm having a blast with hobby machining so far.
When I first got my mill I made a tooling/fixture plate for it and never needed the hold down set you speak of. It is a small mill so the plate is only 11" x 16" and if I remember right as I am not in the shop right now it has 68 holes on 1" centers. I drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 holes then took 1/2"-13 all thread and center drilled and tapped 5/16-18 x just under 5/8" and threaded these into the 5/8" thick drilled and tapped aluminum plate.. I also cemented the inserts into place with red Loctite and have never had a problem with it. I did add angle and step blocks as well as a crapload of custom to project hold downs and clamps Also made enough pieces of threaded 5/16" nylon rod to use as plugs to keep everything from loading up with swarf.
I haven’t watched you in a while. I was attracted to your channel because of your belt grinder series. Now it seems you are an advertiser for products. You’ll love a traditional Bridgeport or clone. Knee Mills are a requirement as is a medium sized lathe
@@HouseMadeUS I just sort of finished a 2x72 with a DC treadmill motor and an mc 60 controller. Next I'm going to build an air/hyd tube bender. I'm also kind of stalling on Mathias Wandel's 20" bandsaw plans I started on a couple months ago. I want that to be speed controlled too so I can cut metal on it.
I have a similar machine I basically use as a fancy drill press. I have a big cnc mill so I don't do much milling in it anymore. My first mill was a harbor freight mini mill, and it is also a decent basic mill to have. I cnc co certed mune and made a crap ton of parts with it. It was awesome.
Tap magic is the best cutting fluid out there. I use it every day from a squirt bottle. Drill bits last 5 times longer between sharpenings. Also clean up well because that stuff gets gooey lol
I'm primarily a woodworker but often I need to make pieces out of steel, aluminium or acrylic and having a milling machine allows me to achieve this. I live in the UK and a friend of mine who makes models had a spare Dore-Westbury which I believe was first made in the 1960s. It's a bit smaller than this Enco (which I wouldn't have room for in my shop) but it's more than enough for my small projects. Thanks for the tips. I have a Chinese Vevor vise (an absolute bargain) for metalwork and a DIY wooden drill-press vise which I can bolt onto the table for woodworking. I like your idea of the table + T-track, which I could quickly throw into the metalwork vise, without having to undo bolts. Will make one tomorrow :)
I can blame you and this video for the 790lb monstrosity in my shop! Found an old Jet 16 with a bunch of tooling right after watching this. Quite a challenge getting it home and off of the trailer. Now I gotta build a stand for it so I can start on my Revolution 2X72 belt grinder sitting in boxes in the shop! Thanks Brian!
I just bought the exact same mill. Mine is Busy Bee branded, model B314. I think its from the late 80's. Nice solid machine and pretty much the biggest benchtop you can get.
I’ve had the same machine for moe than 20 years. My unit is labeled CRAFTX. There is really only one major issue with these mills. Backlash. If you are new to the milling machine, it can take some time to hone your technique to the point where it is not issue. The best add on to the machine, by far, is a DRO. I purchased one a few years ago and don’t know why I waited so long. The unit I purchased was under $300.00. It provides accurate readings for 3 axis. Most importantly, it revealed a wear spot in the middle of one of my lead screws. If you can afford it, get one. Worth every penny.
Yeah I have had some issues with backlash, nothing too major but yes it can be an issue. Also some one just mentioned the DRO for this thing on one of my last videos. Dave Evader Knives I think, he said they can be bought now for under $200 which is insane! I think I am going to do that in the near future. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your advice.
Ha! I used to have one of these set up with an orbiting jig to drill bowling balls when I i had a pro shop. It was great for cutting repeatable ovalled holes to fit human fingers. Terrific machine, and yes, easy to use.
Just found your channel. Love your format. I just got my Grizzly G0704, never machined a thing in my life. Lots of learning, so thanks for making the beginners videos.
Shopping around for a mill right now and this video was really informative. Didn't even think of the extra expenses I'd need to budget for until watching this. Thank you! Also, pro tip for you: instead of using a paint brush or vacuum, keep a large magnet on hand. Just swipe past the shavings and it's all set. Then clean that directly into the trash as needed. I did that with my grinder and saws. In fact, I have mine just stay right there as I'm using the machines, and 99% of what's generated just goes directly onto the magnet without me doing anything. Great channel, brother, I'm subscribing!
That is a great tip. I’ve started using a strong magnet in a heavy duty zip lock and then I just strip the bag off and the chips come with it! I do this on my floor too. Thanks for watching. 💪🏻😁
I have been using a knee high milling machine for years. I have a huge set of collects and several vises. Try looking at the Harbor Freight offering which also allows rotating the head on angles and in an arc.
Well, by now you've mastered the mill. Probably the lathe also. I went from owning a production woodshop full of CNC equipment to retired and hobby metalworking. It's a challenge to keep learning new things. Love being able to design and make things in metal. I repair things for friends and my past business. I buy things as needed (wanted) to expand my capabilities. Lots of tooling, attachments to make something easier. The cheap Chinese stuff makes it possible and if I find a repeating need I'll buy something better. A mill and lathe go together as one system. I bought a very used melt furnace, $45 and have had a good time learning to cast aluminum and then machine them into things that would be difficult to make from solid. I like your 2 x 72 belt grinder. Have fun!
Mastered the mill. That’s hilarious you obviously have no idea what a mill is capable of. You could use it all day everyday for 5 years and still not master it
@@HouseMadeUS Especially if you like all of your tooling magnetized. There are much better close by storage options available that are just as handy. There are some very compelling reasons you won't see them being used in a machine shop. Great video other than this suggestion.
Please don't. It's a bad idea. Tooling should be kept clean of chips when not in use, and if those chips make their way into collets (and they will), the collets won't hold the tooling securely and parallel with the spindle and you'll have issues with chatter and accuracy.
Everything was going well with my new mill-drill until my mom broke up with a machinist. All the sudden "my" tools disappeared! I've been going through my head trying to think of all the tools I need to use this thing now that they are gone lol. I was really starting to wonder about what I would use for large and or flexible workholding, that fixture kit is exactly what I need. Thank you.
WD 40 is ideal for aluminum, and cheaper than tapping fluids, plus it's good for the machinery surfaces. Tap Magic or whatever you like best is good for everything else. I just picked up a used CNC mini mill yesterday.
@@HouseMadeUS A used SyilAmerica X3. But I haven't got it working yet. The monitor and keyboard that came with it were affecting how the computer worked, and today I am going to replace the serial cable with a new one to see if that was part of the problem as well. Hoping that is the final fix. 🤞
@@HouseMadeUS I don't have that kind of money, plus I can't justify it (yet 😆). I am just now learning some of the machining trade. I am a retired union pipefitter/welder who learned my trade in the Navy. I retired in 09 because of MCL cancer and have been keeping my hands dirty in my friends MC repair shop doing fabrication, etc. I don't want to stop learning new things before I die.
Thanks for sharing I'm a welder but in my teenage yrs up until my mid 20s I worked as a diesel mechanic there was machine shop just across from our shop belonging to the same company we worked for and I picked up a little machine works I'm still interested in making things always looking for cheap combination machine I'm saving to get me a smithy combination or anything reasonable that works I know cheap isn't always the best one thing I've done like said is the magnetic trays I got a couple on my drill press that press was given to me by a landscape guy someone paid him to haul it away was 40 bucks I think he gave me for free don't think he really knew how valuable it was all it needed was switch box and a electrical cord cost me around 20 dollars at Home Depot thanks for video I did subscribe will be looking to see more of your videos
Great video thank you! I just got an Rung Fu-30 given to me by a good friend. All appears to be working on it but the Fine Feed Engagement Control. Do you know if there is a drawing depicting the detail assembly for it or a video of someone taking it apart and servicing it? I think it is just not assembled correctly. Thank you.
Hi Roger, I don't have the manual. If you find one would you let me know? I broke off the tension spring a ways back and had to repair it without much direction.
I just bought a second hand mill today and this video came up again (have previously watched it). Even more excited now. Just about finished my 2x72 HW grinder. It's bloody awesome! Tell me where you got your apron. It looks great
I’ve been meaning to do that. Someone else said I should in a comment and honestly I I’d no idea what they were. Just watched a couple of vids and it makes total sense! Thanks for the advice! 👊🏻
How does one learn how to use the mill. I’m a longtime woodworker. So I have somewhat of a background. I would love to learn how. I would need some type of coarse with the particular mill I would be using. Plus I now have a limited budget so I would probably have to start with a smaller mill. Thx.
Bruce Foster here:the one thing I didn’t like about a mill drill was the round column because if you had to raise or lower it you would loose you 0/0 on your vise so I machined some blocks that kept the gear rack from moving but were removable if you needed to pivot the head.
could you please make a video on how to oil the machine uo like under the ways and the lead screws. thanks. it never occurred to use magnetic trays up top. great job on your content.
One thing we used in a machine shop I worked in was a fixture plate. We used a 1 inch plate with dowels in place for stops and the plate was threaded in places for hold down clamps. If you find yourself running a lot of parts and want speed and constancy you cannot beat it. A really good and cheap cutting fluid is water with a bit of Dawn dish detergent. Mix it. Don't shake it. It works great and you don't get oily residue all over the place. You want to wipe your parts dry immediately otherwise it will start to rust. I didn't believe it till I used it, but it really works.
You can make your own emulsified cutting fluid and it works but it is a mess to clean up. As far as shaking it up goes you need a defoaming agent. Something that breaks up the bubbles. Alcohol works but there's other things that work too. Oil and water do mix if you add a detergent. I just use Rapid-Tap though because it cleans up easier. A little dab will do ya.
@@davidbarr707 just detergent is not an emulsified cutting fluid though. I'm a Palmolive kind of a guy anyways. It's got to be green. I'm too cool for blue.
These are made by Rung-Fu, a good manufacturer. Grizzly is pretty good on support. I bought mine from them in 1998. I still use it all the time, and have made some major modifications. There are a lot of excellent coolants. I usually use a water soluble cutting oil made for sawing, but at different concentrations for different work. Other coolants for different things. For example, the best, easily obtainable, and inexpensive coolant for aluminum, brass, bronze and magnesium is WD-40. No question. Also, with these not very rigid machines, always try to keep the head as low as possible. For drilling, it’s not important, but for milling, every inch the head is raised gives more vibration and chatter. So try to keep your setups as close to the table height as possible.
Rong-Fu was the original designer but countless manufacturers knock the products off now. So who made it is anyone's guess. If it doesn't say Made in Taiwan on it then it definitely isn't a Rong-Fu. Because Rong-Fu is a Taiwanese company.
@@1pcfred they are still the biggest manufacturer of these, and other similar models for most importers. Grizzly still uses them, and so do a number of other big importers. They have very good quality, and have upgraded the machines over the years in mechanics and electrical.
@@melgross what are you basing that information on? Even if they were the biggest manufacturer that hardly matters when there are countless other manufacturers. Their combined total output dwarfs what one company can produce. My mainland clone has a serial number six digits long.
@@1pcfred you’d be surprised. Most of those digits have nothing to do with the number of the unit. Some are manufacturing date codes. Some are run codes, etc.
@@melgross I would not be surprised if they were consecutive units produced. As hundreds of thousands is well within the realm of reason for such an ubiquitous item as a mini mill. My mill was made in 1992 too. They probably have seven digit serial numbers now.
I recently had to mill and cut out some broken exhaust bolts out of two Ford FE Cylinder Heads using this machine. There would be no way I would have been able to accomplish said task using anything other than a milling machine. I had to be dead precise as to not damage the existing threads. End mills are very handy to cut or bore the center of a broke off bolt. Drill bits tend to walk, bend, or break unless it has some kind of dimple or bore to work with.
Hey Brian it’s good to see you cutting steel most of the time the mill drill machines are being shown cutting aluminum. I’m a tool room machinist with 42 years experience I’m considering a mill drill for my garage I have some really cool projects to do and by the way what does anyone think about the harbor freight 1 1/2 horse mill drill I would like to know how it preforms.
@@HouseMadeUS yeah the round column just isn't strong enough. It's OK if I never climb mill in steel. I've run bigger mills in a machine shop. I wouldn't want to have to move one of those. I've moved a Bridgeport once. Wasn't fun. I ran a pretty big K&T mill. I have no idea how those are moved. That machine was comically large. It reminded me of the prow of a battleship. I've never even been able to find a picture of one like it online. It was a pan apron model. So you had to step up onto the mill to run it. You were basically in the mill while you were operating it.
@@HouseMadeUS Automotive repair but just bought a tig welder and would like to get into metal fab. Build brackets and such for my dragster. Have both available local at the moment.
@@kenleblanc3259 l have a 12 x 36 lathe with milling attachment,, and a nice drill press,, l restore classic cars and it serves me well,, you will spend alot of money on tooling for a mill,, unless you do alot more than I just get a lathe at least 10 inch with original milling attachment.
There is a guy in Western Australia called Bruce Whitman who makes a simple, retro-fit mount for your mill that will allow you to keep the head lined up with your table when you unlock the head and raise your z access crankarm. I think it’s about $AU400... and he’ll deliver everywhere. One of the downsides of those column mills is loosing accuracy when you raise the head (say to fit a taller collet/tool). Fwiw: I have the Australuan hare&forbes model and I too love it!
Bruce whitham has a channel if you want to check it out ( its under his name ). Just went and saw him and he has the Truline 8 column holder in stock. the original model of this mill is the Rong Fu RF-30 - 31 made in Taiwan.
Okay great. Thank you. I will check him out. I am still learning a lot about machining, I suppose I won't ever know it all. So much to take in. But a whole lot of fun. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@troyam6607 - Thanks cool. I will look up the history of the Mill. I thought it was interesting that there were so many that were basically the same thing. Except they had different logos on them. Lol.
@@HouseMadeUS well when you have a good recipe company's will tend to copy :-) it looks like your gibs on the table might need tightening as it seems to have a lot of play when your milling.
Hey .. that used to be mine! LOL So glad that we connected and you were the one that took ownership of the mill, lathe and other tools. I love being able to catch your videos and see the mill in use. When will you have the lathe up and going? Going to do a video on it too? That lathe has some history and I'm sure it will be another useful tool for you. Start getting used to the tools .. I have a couple of projects to discuss with you. :) Awesome video .. as always. Keep killin it man!
I need to get a new belt for it, and I can’t figure out how to dismantle it to do that. That said there is a link style belt that doesn’t require the dismantle, I just need to figure it out. I did build a nice work table for it. On casters of course! 🤣
The phrase you need is called "work holding" :) It's an entire science around machining, as is "setup" I haven't been long on your channel, which was my loss I dig your latest belt grinder, and intend to build one
I appreciate that, yeah I have no idea on the nomenclature. However, I am learning! I am working on the plans for the grinder. Hoping to have them done by the end of January. Thanks for joining my channel.
Thanks for the commentary. I've come across, and am considering, a "Speedway Series" mill similar to what you're showing here, but probably smaller. It's perhaps 10 years old and hardly used. So everything on these chinese machines is metric (well, except collets, marked as 1/2", etc.). Have you had trouble finding metric accessories such as the hold-down tooling and so forth? For instance, the t-nuts used with hold-downs are probably not going to be standard sizes.
My table is all standard sizes so I was able to buy everything pretty easily. Amazon has most of it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Still is one of my absolute favorites!
Hi Brian, nice video. I stumbled on to it because I'm looking at buying one of those mills you mentioned. Thanks for the tips and I'm going to check out more of your videos, I subscribed! and just started following you on Instagram.
Thanks for the great video. I can do a little of everything else, but have never gotten into using a mini-mill. What would be good training to learn before you dive into before thinking of buying?
Hello Bryan, Enjoy your videos. I just acquired a drill mill similar to yours. I am thinking about using ER collets. Have you had any experience using the ER Colets? I would like to know what you think? Thanks, Davie
the time has come for me as well to buy the milling machine, but my budget is very small, I can barely spend USD800 on it. do you often need the long work table or do you think 500mm or less would suffice? I really want the milling machine but it scares me, because I know that even IF I find a cheap one, I will keep adding stuff to it like DRO, auto feeder and whatever is out there, and I will end up spending 4 times the initial amount. that makes me think, maybe I should wait 1-2 years, save up the proper amount, and buy my "final" milling machine with 70mm, DRO, auto feed, powerful brushless motor etc. do you think it's better to start modest / small, and upgrade to the beast, or save the cash and go for the beast? it's the 1st time your channel was recommended to me, and it looks very interesting, I will explore it further.
wow, I have the same mill/drill, the Hobart mig welder in the background, the same blast cabinet and the same size drill press. But I don't have that same haircut. Who cut your hair Seargent Stadainco?(SP) "Gheech and Chong" , that being said I was trained on a Bridgeport and everything after that is...Well no as good. I liked your video, keep them coming.
I always go high and tight. Haha. Been that way for years, however 10 years ago I looked a lot different. Long hair, beard etc. One day I got tired of it and just shaved it all clean. Been that way ever since. That said, it seems as if you have great taste in tools, I don't know what you look like so I can't comment on that, I'll assume you're as dapper as I am. Thanks for watching and welcome aboard. 😃
Get some water soluble cutting fluid, mix it up and put it in a squirt bottle. It will keep your cutters a lot cooler than the oils, and won't smoke as much.
Yeah, it does seem like a good tool for the shop but, since I would only use it for woodworking, it would have been nice to see a demo of the possible work a woodworker could do with an end mill.
Very good video,objective and informative. Gives a solid perspective on past and present thinking and does influence a rational need. Thank you for your video.i am also now a new scriber too. Cheers Troy
Three years ago you praised your Enco Milling drilling machine model 105-1110. Now that three years have past do you still praise the machine? The reason I am asking is that I am looking to purchase one.
It's funny. I have a mill and I am always fiddling getting projects secured in my vice! My mill is so much better holding materials down vs a drill. Starting today, I'll look at using the mill instead of the drill press!
Until 2 years ago, those milling machines were sold by Grizzly for 1200 dollars. Made in Taiwan. I’m using this machine for over 10 years now. On the vertical axis, I mounted 20 dollars DRO. Because of the size of the table, this machine is much better deal, than the fancy table top milling machines sold for more than 5000 dollars. With the right attachments, you can do anything on it. The size of the parts, is only the limit.
If you are happy with it then whatever you do DO NOT LOOK AT A INDUSTRIAL MILLING MACHINE!!!! It`s like the two foot disease thingy with boats and you will end up with a 4000 pounds milling machine made in Switzerland. Guess how i know.... On the other hand if you more and more often think that you really should upgrade, go big! The bigger they get the cheaper they are.
Haha, yeah well like most people I am restricted with space so I can't be getting a huge bridgeport or something. I WISH. I never get tired looking at tools though. :)
LED lights are dangerous if your machine is only lit by them, because of the strobe effect. Cutting tools appear stationary if the speed and power frequency are the same 3000 rpm for me in UK and 3600 for you.in US
Hey there, sounds like your doing well with your new mill, however I strongly suggest taking a machine tool course to do it safely, having your tooling on a magnet above your head is a huge No,no, just thought I would throw a bone there. Have a blessed day.🙂
@@HouseMadeUS tooling drops gets pinched into work piece and endmill or drill as you are working or gets gets snagged on drill chips and.....It's just dangerous , I've been a Journey man machinist for 20 years and been in some hairy situations where bad things have happened even in small machines, Just please trust me.😉
if anyone know’s the answer it’s this guy..i asked this old engineering shop operator (50years+) what cutting fluid the cutting/cooling fluid he used he said milk/water mix not sure on the ratio but he had a shop FULL of these type of tools and he uses that on EVERYTHING
Shame its a round column, I think I have seen it in a square version that is much more accurate for milling. If I remember Winkys workshop channel did a few updates to improve his.
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I'd advise against using the magnets to hold your cutters. You''ll get steel chips in the collets and then your cutters will exhibit runout.
How? Please explain because you don't make sense.
@@theonepstein5100 If you store your collets or cutters on a magnetized holder, they will eventually become somewhat magnetized. They will attract tiny steel chips. If you don't get all these chips off the collets or cutters , when you insert them, the collet or cutter will no longer be centered, which introduces runout. That will make holes drilled slightly oversized. If you are drilling or reaming a hole for a press fit pin, those holes must be VERY precise in diameter, or the pressfits won't hold properly. Non-metallic or aluminum particles can also affect the runout but they are more easily removed.
Exactly I recommend a demagnetizer I use it every time never had a problem
I would definately have toolbox dedicated for my mill tooling
Given some of the shots of his endmills stored in wooden boxes that have chips left on them, this House chap could do with being a bit more rigorous with his tool cleaning anyway.
Using magnetised dishes to keep tooling in is something no machinist would do; it just adds more work to the task of keeping the tooling clean.
This is the problem with people who have no real experience of machining giving advice on RUclips; they give a mixture of good and bad advice and beginners can struggle to know what's worth listening to.
This press has worked like a charm for my projects ruclips.net/user/postUgkxajoEbapTfqWaadnqb04h6U576yxXp-FE . I didn't even secure it to my table top, mainly due to the fact that I was using a 15 lbs drill vise. It's not flimsy at all as to what others have claimed it to be. Make sure the locking nuts and levers are secured and there won't be any issues with light pressure and patience. I was able to drill through aluminum, plastic, and steel (steel took a while) with no problems at all. Yeah it took a little longer than a regular drill press, but I don't have the space OR the money for one.The instruction manual was worthless, but luckily assembling the press was intuitive. However, the manual would be good for ordering replacement parts if needed. There is a nice breakdown of the parts that are included in the kit. Before ordering, make sure it is compatible with your unit, it is clearly stated what models the press is compatible with.This was an excellent purchase for $40!!
"Rigid" and "Flimsy" are relative terms. All engineering is about tolerances, larger and smaller.
HF for the win! It’s like there’s an art to knowing what tools to buy from there and which ones to get somewhere else
Yeah it's a crap shoot, but I will say there are some good buys there. It's a good place to start. 🤙🏻
Fantastic machine. For inexpensive cutting fluid I use automatic trans fluid and kerosene. In the shops I worked at they called it secret sauce.
Ahhh super interesting thank you.
Enjoyed the video. I got my mill drill in 1994 and still use it often I added DRO and power feed years ago, helps a lot. Later from Texas.
My former mill was a rf25, virtually the same as you have except mine had a morse 3 taper in the quill. The modifications I made to it, was to change the motor to three phase, so having a reverse, also variable speed on the motor, as well as the belt change. Power feed on the x axis. The reason I changed it, I wanted a DRO, and not to have to tram the head when lifting it. Bruce Witham from West Australia has since built a kit that stops that problem. I did have my mill for over 25 years... Good Luck with it....
I’d love to have variable speed on this thing. I could use it to tap and such. I have reverse but that’s it. Having a lot of fun with this beast! 👊🏻😎
My single phase mill reverses.
Loved your closing comments! I feel exactly the same why. Just keep building.
Yes! Thank you!
The machine shop I bought my ENCO 13x40 lathe from has a Bridgeport style MSC knee mill that they said they'd sell to me really cheap. I just don't have the room in my garage for this thing. We'd like to build a shop in the backyard but ya know...money. Great video. I'm having a blast with hobby machining so far.
Great video..thank you. Just got a g0760 grizzly mill drill machine
Sweet!!
Thank you for taking the time to impart such valuable knowledge. Very useful. Your video deserves more views.
Hey thank you so much!!
When I first got my mill I made a tooling/fixture plate for it and never needed the hold down set you speak of. It is a small mill so the plate is only 11" x 16" and if I remember right as I am not in the shop right now it has 68 holes on 1" centers. I drilled and tapped 1/2"-13 holes then took 1/2"-13 all thread and center drilled and tapped 5/16-18 x just under 5/8" and threaded these into the 5/8" thick drilled and tapped aluminum plate.. I also cemented the inserts into place with red Loctite and have never had a problem with it. I did add angle and step blocks as well as a crapload of custom to project hold downs and clamps Also made enough pieces of threaded 5/16" nylon rod to use as plugs to keep everything from loading up with swarf.
I haven’t watched you in a while.
I was attracted to your channel because of your belt grinder series.
Now it seems you are an advertiser for products.
You’ll love a traditional Bridgeport or clone.
Knee Mills are a requirement as is a medium sized lathe
I fit in no box. But yea, I'd like to have those tools.
Thanks, I just picked up one of these mills and am researching it. Some good tips! New subby
Awesome. Thanks Rusty! 🙏🏼
Thanks for the feedback on the mill Brian. I can't imagine how satisfying it is to have such a versatile asset in your shop!
It’s really awesome! Thanks Jose. What projects are you working on currently?
@@HouseMadeUS I just sort of finished a 2x72 with a DC treadmill motor and an mc 60 controller. Next I'm going to build an air/hyd tube bender. I'm also kind of stalling on Mathias Wandel's 20" bandsaw plans I started on a couple months ago. I want that to be speed controlled too so I can cut metal on it.
I have one of these....in the middle of turning it into a cnc machine.
I have a similar machine I basically use as a fancy drill press. I have a big cnc mill so I don't do much milling in it anymore. My first mill was a harbor freight mini mill, and it is also a decent basic mill to have. I cnc co certed mune and made a crap ton of parts with it. It was awesome.
I bet that is awesome.
Tap magic is the best cutting fluid out there. I use it every day from a squirt bottle. Drill bits last 5 times longer between sharpenings. Also clean up well because that stuff gets gooey lol
I'm primarily a woodworker but often I need to make pieces out of steel, aluminium or acrylic and having a milling machine allows me to achieve this. I live in the UK and a friend of mine who makes models had a spare Dore-Westbury which I believe was first made in the 1960s. It's a bit smaller than this Enco (which I wouldn't have room for in my shop) but it's more than enough for my small projects. Thanks for the tips. I have a Chinese Vevor vise (an absolute bargain) for metalwork and a DIY wooden drill-press vise which I can bolt onto the table for woodworking. I like your idea of the table + T-track, which I could quickly throw into the metalwork vise, without having to undo bolts. Will make one tomorrow :)
Yes I agree, a milling machine is a must have in the shop. Nive Video!
Thanks so much! 🤩
@@HouseMadeUS 😀
I can blame you and this video for the 790lb monstrosity in my shop! Found an old Jet 16 with a bunch of tooling right after watching this. Quite a challenge getting it home and off of the trailer. Now I gotta build a stand for it so I can start on my Revolution 2X72 belt grinder sitting in boxes in the shop! Thanks Brian!
I just bought the exact same mill. Mine is Busy Bee branded, model B314. I think its from the late 80's. Nice solid machine and pretty much the biggest benchtop you can get.
Yeah gotta love these things. I may upgrade it to speed control at some point.
Just got the same mill and bunch of tooling. Having used knee mills this is for smaller parts. Subscribed!
Very cool Jon. Thanks for joining up.
I’ve had the same machine for moe than 20 years. My unit is labeled CRAFTX. There is really only one major issue with these mills. Backlash. If you are new to the milling machine, it can take some time to hone your technique to the point where it is not issue.
The best add on to the machine, by far, is a DRO. I purchased one a few years ago and don’t know why I waited so long. The unit I purchased was under $300.00. It provides accurate readings for 3 axis. Most importantly, it revealed a wear spot in the middle of one of my lead screws. If you can afford it, get one. Worth every penny.
Yeah I have had some issues with backlash, nothing too major but yes it can be an issue. Also some one just mentioned the DRO for this thing on one of my last videos. Dave Evader Knives I think, he said they can be bought now for under $200 which is insane! I think I am going to do that in the near future. Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate your advice.
Ha! I used to have one of these set up with an orbiting jig to drill bowling balls when I i had a pro shop. It was great for cutting repeatable ovalled holes to fit human fingers. Terrific machine, and yes, easy to use.
Just found your channel. Love your format. I just got my Grizzly G0704, never machined a thing in my life. Lots of learning, so thanks for making the beginners videos.
Cool, did you buy it new from Grizzly? or Used? Ill have to look that one up.
Shopping around for a mill right now and this video was really informative. Didn't even think of the extra expenses I'd need to budget for until watching this. Thank you! Also, pro tip for you: instead of using a paint brush or vacuum, keep a large magnet on hand. Just swipe past the shavings and it's all set. Then clean that directly into the trash as needed. I did that with my grinder and saws. In fact, I have mine just stay right there as I'm using the machines, and 99% of what's generated just goes directly onto the magnet without me doing anything. Great channel, brother, I'm subscribing!
That is a great tip. I’ve started using a strong magnet in a heavy duty zip lock and then I just strip the bag off and the chips come with it! I do this on my floor too. Thanks for watching. 💪🏻😁
Unless your machining aluminum of course
I have been using a knee high milling machine for years. I have a huge set of collects and several vises. Try looking at the Harbor Freight offering which also allows rotating the head on angles and in an arc.
Thanks for the tip!
Well, by now you've mastered the mill. Probably the lathe also. I went from owning a production woodshop full of CNC equipment to retired and hobby metalworking. It's a challenge to keep learning new things. Love being able to design and make things in metal. I repair things for friends and my past business. I buy things as needed (wanted) to expand my capabilities. Lots of tooling, attachments to make something easier. The cheap Chinese stuff makes it possible and if I find a repeating need I'll buy something better. A mill and lathe go together as one system. I bought a very used melt furnace, $45 and have had a good time learning to cast aluminum and then machine them into things that would be difficult to make from solid. I like your 2 x 72 belt grinder. Have fun!
Mastered the mill. That’s hilarious you obviously have no idea what a mill is capable of. You could use it all day everyday for 5 years and still not master it
“As needed (wanted)” is the epitome of my tool collection
o.m.g. , using those magnetised tool trays to hold the chuck keys and stuff - what a brilliant idea !!! We'll be copying that straight away 😃
They do work great 😊
@@HouseMadeUS Especially if you like all of your tooling magnetized. There are much better close by storage options available that are just as handy. There are some very compelling reasons you won't see them being used in a machine shop. Great video other than this suggestion.
Please don't. It's a bad idea. Tooling should be kept clean of chips when not in use, and if those chips make their way into collets (and they will), the collets won't hold the tooling securely and parallel with the spindle and you'll have issues with chatter and accuracy.
Everything was going well with my new mill-drill until my mom broke up with a machinist. All the sudden "my" tools disappeared! I've been going through my head trying to think of all the tools I need to use this thing now that they are gone lol. I was really starting to wonder about what I would use for large and or flexible workholding, that fixture kit is exactly what I need. Thank you.
Hahaha! Isn't that how it goes!? 😂
WD 40 is ideal for aluminum, and cheaper than tapping fluids, plus it's good for the machinery surfaces. Tap Magic or whatever you like best is good for everything else.
I just picked up a used CNC mini mill yesterday.
What CNC did you get?
@@HouseMadeUS A used SyilAmerica X3. But I haven't got it working yet. The monitor and keyboard that came with it were affecting how the computer worked, and today I am going to replace the serial cable with a new one to see if that was part of the problem as well. Hoping that is the final fix.
🤞
Okay cool. I've been looking at the Syil x7
@@HouseMadeUS I don't have that kind of money, plus I can't justify it (yet 😆). I am just now learning some of the machining trade. I am a retired union pipefitter/welder who learned my trade in the Navy. I retired in 09 because of MCL cancer and have been keeping my hands dirty in my friends MC repair shop doing fabrication, etc. I don't want to stop learning new things before I die.
Thanks for information definitely I’m going to buy the mill!
⚡️⚡️⚡️Thank you!! ⚡️⚡️⚡️
Thanks for sharing I'm a welder but in my teenage yrs up until my mid 20s I worked as a diesel mechanic there was machine shop just across from our shop belonging to the same company we worked for and I picked up a little machine works I'm still interested in making things always looking for cheap combination machine I'm saving to get me a smithy combination or anything reasonable that works I know cheap isn't always the best one thing I've done like said is the magnetic trays I got a couple on my drill press that press was given to me by a landscape guy someone paid him to haul it away was 40 bucks I think he gave me for free don't think he really knew how valuable it was all it needed was switch box and a electrical cord cost me around 20 dollars at Home Depot thanks for video I did subscribe will be looking to see more of your videos
Great video thank you! I just got an Rung Fu-30 given to me by a good friend. All appears to be working on it but the Fine Feed Engagement Control. Do you know if there is a drawing depicting the detail assembly for it or a video of someone taking it apart and servicing it? I think it is just not assembled correctly. Thank you.
Hi Roger, I don't have the manual. If you find one would you let me know? I broke off the tension spring a ways back and had to repair it without much direction.
I just bought a second hand mill today and this video came up again (have previously watched it). Even more excited now. Just about finished my 2x72 HW grinder. It's bloody awesome! Tell me where you got your apron. It looks great
Hey Paul thank you. I love this mill and want a second one now. 😂 My apron comes from Amazon: amzn.to/3tYxVgK
Mine is identical but here in Australia, the brand is Hafco. Good tip on the lights - thanks.
I’ll buy myself a coffee but I’ll think about this video while enjoying it bro
Hey dude, get yourself a set of parallels for using in the vice, really useful.
I’ve been meaning to do that. Someone else said I should in a comment and honestly I I’d no idea what they were. Just watched a couple of vids and it makes total sense! Thanks for the advice! 👊🏻
How does one learn how to use the mill. I’m a longtime woodworker. So I have somewhat of a background. I would love to learn how. I would need some type of coarse with the particular mill I would be using. Plus I now have a limited budget so I would probably have to start with a smaller mill. Thx.
Bruce Foster here:the one thing I didn’t like about a mill drill was the round column because if you had to raise or lower it you would loose you 0/0 on your vise so I machined some blocks that kept the gear rack from moving but were removable if you needed to pivot the head.
Thank you Brian,from Australia.
could you please make a video on how to oil the machine uo like under the ways and the lead screws. thanks. it never occurred to use magnetic trays up top. great job on your content.
One thing we used in a machine shop I worked in was a fixture plate. We used a 1 inch plate with dowels in place for stops and the plate was threaded in places for hold down clamps. If you find yourself running a lot of parts and want speed and constancy you cannot beat it. A really good and cheap cutting fluid is water with a bit of Dawn dish detergent. Mix it. Don't shake it. It works great and you don't get oily residue all over the place. You want to wipe your parts dry immediately otherwise it will start to rust. I didn't believe it till I used it, but it really works.
You can make your own emulsified cutting fluid and it works but it is a mess to clean up. As far as shaking it up goes you need a defoaming agent. Something that breaks up the bubbles. Alcohol works but there's other things that work too. Oil and water do mix if you add a detergent. I just use Rapid-Tap though because it cleans up easier. A little dab will do ya.
@@1pcfred that's why I liked the Dawn dish detergent. Easy clean up. Just wipe it off. No oily residue.
@@davidbarr707 just detergent is not an emulsified cutting fluid though. I'm a Palmolive kind of a guy anyways. It's got to be green. I'm too cool for blue.
Thanks for the links!
No problem! Thank you!
These are made by Rung-Fu, a good manufacturer. Grizzly is pretty good on support. I bought mine from them in 1998. I still use it all the time, and have made some major modifications.
There are a lot of excellent coolants. I usually use a water soluble cutting oil made for sawing, but at different concentrations for different work. Other coolants for different things. For example, the best, easily obtainable, and inexpensive coolant for aluminum, brass, bronze and magnesium is WD-40. No question.
Also, with these not very rigid machines, always try to keep the head as low as possible. For drilling, it’s not important, but for milling, every inch the head is raised gives more vibration and chatter. So try to keep your setups as close to the table height as possible.
Rong-Fu was the original designer but countless manufacturers knock the products off now. So who made it is anyone's guess. If it doesn't say Made in Taiwan on it then it definitely isn't a Rong-Fu. Because Rong-Fu is a Taiwanese company.
@@1pcfred they are still the biggest manufacturer of these, and other similar models for most importers. Grizzly still uses them, and so do a number of other big importers. They have very good quality, and have upgraded the machines over the years in mechanics and electrical.
@@melgross what are you basing that information on? Even if they were the biggest manufacturer that hardly matters when there are countless other manufacturers. Their combined total output dwarfs what one company can produce. My mainland clone has a serial number six digits long.
@@1pcfred you’d be surprised. Most of those digits have nothing to do with the number of the unit. Some are manufacturing date codes. Some are run codes, etc.
@@melgross I would not be surprised if they were consecutive units produced. As hundreds of thousands is well within the realm of reason for such an ubiquitous item as a mini mill. My mill was made in 1992 too. They probably have seven digit serial numbers now.
I recently had to mill and cut out some broken exhaust bolts out of two Ford FE Cylinder Heads using this machine. There would be no way I would have been able to accomplish said task using anything other than a milling machine. I had to be dead precise as to not damage the existing threads. End mills are very handy to cut or bore the center of a broke off bolt. Drill bits tend to walk, bend, or break unless it has some kind of dimple or bore to work with.
Hey Brian it’s good to see you cutting steel most of the time the mill drill machines are being shown cutting aluminum. I’m a tool room machinist with 42 years experience I’m considering a mill drill for my garage I have some really cool projects to do and by the way what does anyone think about the harbor freight 1 1/2 horse mill drill I would like to know how it preforms.
Thanks Kenneth. Yeah for the most part I am a steel guy. Mild steel. It works and it works well even with these cheaper Harbor Freight end mills.
Maaaaaaaan I have been eyeballing a small benchtop mill FOREVER.... just can't seem to pull the trigger on one!!!
I have a round column 30 series benchtop mill too. It is pretty handy. Not the most rigid mill ever made though.
Yeah its a bit chattery but I love it. Makes me want a larger one some day. Thank you for watching.
@@HouseMadeUS yeah the round column just isn't strong enough. It's OK if I never climb mill in steel. I've run bigger mills in a machine shop. I wouldn't want to have to move one of those. I've moved a Bridgeport once. Wasn't fun. I ran a pretty big K&T mill. I have no idea how those are moved. That machine was comically large. It reminded me of the prow of a battleship. I've never even been able to find a picture of one like it online. It was a pan apron model. So you had to step up onto the mill to run it. You were basically in the mill while you were operating it.
any tips on mounting the machine? do you just keep it on its stand or bolt it to your concrete floor?
I have this one on heavy duty caster wheels. Works great
Great video. What model Enco mill do you have?
Thanks,
Paul
I’m just now shopping for one
They are out there used, the old ones If cared for are better than the new ones.
How about details on your shop apron. Also what was that bottle you use for tap magic tia
What apron you rockin?
What would you suggest I get first, can't decide a lathe or a mill?
I have both but use my Mill a lot more than the lathe. I think they are both worth having though. What kind of work do you do in your shop?
@@HouseMadeUS Automotive repair but just bought a tig welder and would like to get into metal fab. Build brackets and such for my dragster. Have both available local at the moment.
@@kenleblanc3259 l have a 12 x 36 lathe with milling attachment,, and a nice drill press,, l restore classic cars and it serves me well,, you will spend alot of money on tooling for a mill,, unless you do alot more than I just get a lathe at least 10 inch with original milling attachment.
Umm yeah ive wanted one for a while 😂 i dont want to settle for a cheap one though. Looks like you got nice one👍
Thanks, yeah its a beast. Made a bunch of cool crap with it so far. :)
There is a guy in Western Australia called Bruce Whitman who makes a simple, retro-fit mount for your mill that will allow you to keep the head lined up with your table when you unlock the head and raise your z access crankarm.
I think it’s about $AU400... and he’ll deliver everywhere.
One of the downsides of those column mills is loosing accuracy when you raise the head (say to fit a taller collet/tool).
Fwiw: I have the Australuan hare&forbes model and I too love it!
Bruce whitham has a channel if you want to check it out ( its under his name ). Just went and saw him and he has the Truline 8 column holder in stock. the original model of this mill is the Rong Fu RF-30 - 31 made in Taiwan.
Okay great. Thank you. I will check him out. I am still learning a lot about machining, I suppose I won't ever know it all. So much to take in. But a whole lot of fun. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@troyam6607 - Thanks cool. I will look up the history of the Mill. I thought it was interesting that there were so many that were basically the same thing. Except they had different logos on them. Lol.
@@HouseMadeUS well when you have a good recipe company's will tend to copy :-) it looks like your gibs on the table might need tightening as it seems to have a lot of play when your milling.
@@troyam6607 you're missing the RF-32 in your list.
Hey .. that used to be mine! LOL So glad that we connected and you were the one that took ownership of the mill, lathe and other tools. I love being able to catch your videos and see the mill in use. When will you have the lathe up and going? Going to do a video on it too? That lathe has some history and I'm sure it will be another useful tool for you. Start getting used to the tools .. I have a couple of projects to discuss with you. :) Awesome video .. as always. Keep killin it man!
I need to get a new belt for it, and I can’t figure out how to dismantle it to do that. That said there is a link style belt that doesn’t require the dismantle, I just need to figure it out. I did build a nice work table for it. On casters of course! 🤣
THANK YOU!!!!!!! HAPPY NEW YEAR!!
Same to you David! Thanks!
Fireball tools makes a base platon for work holding that would work great.
Ill look into that, thank you. I love his squares
The phrase you need is called "work holding" :)
It's an entire science around machining,
as is "setup"
I haven't been long on your channel, which was my loss
I dig your latest belt grinder, and intend to build one
I appreciate that, yeah I have no idea on the nomenclature. However, I am learning! I am working on the plans for the grinder. Hoping to have them done by the end of January. Thanks for joining my channel.
Thanks for the commentary. I've come across, and am considering, a "Speedway Series" mill similar to what you're showing here, but probably smaller. It's perhaps 10 years old and hardly used. So everything on these chinese machines is metric (well, except collets, marked as 1/2", etc.). Have you had trouble finding metric accessories such as the hold-down tooling and so forth? For instance, the t-nuts used with hold-downs are probably not going to be standard sizes.
My table is all standard sizes so I was able to buy everything pretty easily. Amazon has most of it. Thanks for watching and commenting. Still is one of my absolute favorites!
While many of these machines are metric, many of the sizes are analogous to imperial ones...
13mm for 1/2"
8mm for 5/16"
16mm for 5/8"
Fantastic review of the tool. Seriously need one of these in my life!
How heavy is it? Light enough to be carried by one person from the bench to the store room? Incase there is confinement of space at the workshop
No, you can’t carry this. 250lbs
Okay. Are there some mini milling machines that are around 55lbs?
@@HouseMadeUS Your mill is more like 695 pounds. You knew it was pretty heavy.
Very useful, practical how to, thanks!
Thanks Brad! Hope 2020 has been good to you so far.
Hi Brian, nice video. I stumbled on to it because I'm looking at buying one of those mills you mentioned. Thanks for the tips and I'm going to check out more of your videos, I subscribed! and just started following you on Instagram.
Glad it was helpful! I still use this dang thing every day. I found you on IG also and started following you. Thanks for supporting my work.
I don't envision my half-dead self owning a mill or a lathe. But boy do I know how much I miss a workshop with both in them.
A lathe and a mill is ideal for sure.
LOVED, LIKED and SUBSCRIBED
Cheers
- Thank you! 🚀🚀🚀
Thanks for the great video. I can do a little of everything else, but have never gotten into using a mini-mill. What would be good training to learn before you dive into before thinking of buying?
thanks for sharing experience talks
Thank you Anthony.
Your mill is legit! Love it... want one
It’s almost too legit! 😅 Thanks J!
Thanks for the clamp link bro!
You’re welcome! Thank you for watching and supporting my work. 💪🏻😁
Does that bad boy run on 220v?
Believe it or not, it’s 110. Tons of power though.
Hello Bryan, Enjoy your videos. I just acquired a drill mill similar to yours. I am thinking about using ER collets. Have you had any experience using the ER Colets? I would like to know what you think? Thanks, Davie
Hi Davie, I don't have any experience with ER collets. Let me know what you do and what the difference is from what I use. Thank you.
I think I would add a coolant tank and pump to have a constant flow of lube/coolant
Good idea. I'd like to try that.
question : if you already have mill machine, why you still buying drill press?
Can’t beat a mill.
I know. They are just a pleasure to use also. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi Brian,first happy new year,and thanks for sharing ....this video....
Thanks Ray. Hope you're doing well!
I feel like I'm ready to become an expert Miller lol
the time has come for me as well to buy the milling machine, but my budget is very small, I can barely spend USD800 on it.
do you often need the long work table or do you think 500mm or less would suffice?
I really want the milling machine but it scares me, because I know that even IF I find a cheap one, I will keep adding stuff to it like DRO, auto feeder and whatever is out there, and I will end up spending 4 times the initial amount. that makes me think, maybe I should wait 1-2 years, save up the proper amount, and buy my "final" milling machine with 70mm, DRO, auto feed, powerful brushless motor etc.
do you think it's better to start modest / small, and upgrade to the beast, or save the cash and go for the beast?
it's the 1st time your channel was recommended to me, and it looks very interesting, I will explore it further.
I've got the same machine, ser. # 298. Nice machine.
Thank you. I’ll have to find the serial on this.
wow, I have the same mill/drill, the Hobart mig welder in the background, the same blast cabinet and the same size drill press. But I don't have that same haircut. Who cut your hair Seargent Stadainco?(SP) "Gheech and Chong" , that being said I was trained on a Bridgeport and everything after that is...Well no as good. I liked your video, keep them coming.
I always go high and tight. Haha. Been that way for years, however 10 years ago I looked a lot different. Long hair, beard etc. One day I got tired of it and just shaved it all clean. Been that way ever since. That said, it seems as if you have great taste in tools, I don't know what you look like so I can't comment on that, I'll assume you're as dapper as I am. Thanks for watching and welcome aboard. 😃
Get some water soluble cutting fluid, mix it up and put it in a squirt bottle. It will keep your cutters a lot cooler than the oils, and won't smoke as much.
Thanks for the tip!
@@HouseMadeUS Forgot to say... Don't dilute the oil too much. The water can cause rust. And be sure you clean it off the machine after use.
Check out Winky's Workshop mods which include method to keep head the head aligned when raising or lowering and his power lift for the head.
Will do Dwight. Thank you for the recommendation.
Yeah, it does seem like a good tool for the shop but, since I would only use it for woodworking, it would have been nice to see a demo of the possible work a woodworker could do with an end mill.
Very good video,objective and informative. Gives a solid perspective on past and present thinking and does influence a rational need.
Thank you for your video.i am also now a new scriber too.
Cheers
Troy
Thanks Troy, I appreciate that. I am always thinking, now I just have to get that thinking the right way thing down! Cheers from Florida. :)
Three years ago you praised your Enco Milling drilling machine model 105-1110. Now that three years have past do you still praise the machine? The reason I am asking is that I am looking to purchase one.
Yes, we still use it every day. Well worth the investment
I use a sock with a rare earth magnet in it and drag it around on a cord.
Then turn it inside out, and most of the chips drop off
Thats a good idea, Ill have to try that! Thank you!
Rong-fu make all these round pillar machines. Jet, enco, et la are rebrands...
Oh no kidding, I thought they all looked the same. I am happy with my enco, not sure they are still made the same way though.
great ideas thanks
It's funny. I have a mill and I am always fiddling getting projects secured in my vice! My mill is so much better holding materials down vs a drill. Starting today, I'll look at using the mill instead of the drill press!
Yes!
Until 2 years ago, those milling machines were sold by Grizzly for 1200 dollars. Made in Taiwan. I’m using this machine for over 10 years now. On the vertical axis, I mounted 20 dollars DRO. Because of the size of the table, this machine is much better deal, than the fancy table top milling machines sold for more than 5000 dollars. With the right attachments, you can do anything on it. The size of the parts, is only the limit.
If you are happy with it then whatever you do DO NOT LOOK AT A INDUSTRIAL MILLING MACHINE!!!! It`s like the two foot disease thingy with boats and you will end up with a 4000 pounds milling machine made in Switzerland. Guess how i know....
On the other hand if you more and more often think that you really should upgrade, go big! The bigger they get the cheaper they are.
Haha, yeah well like most people I am restricted with space so I can't be getting a huge bridgeport or something. I WISH. I never get tired looking at tools though. :)
LED lights are dangerous if your machine is only lit by them, because of the strobe effect. Cutting tools appear stationary if the speed and power frequency are the same 3000 rpm for me in UK and 3600 for you.in US
Hmmmn, interesting. I've never had that issue. My machines are so loud there is no way I could ever not know they were on. Haha.
@@HouseMadeUS That is what I thought too BUT, try it at1800 rpm with just the work light going on it as I did. with my lathe.
Oh wow, bet that was scary. Thanks for the heads up. 👊🏻
yes I need one
They are really great to have. :)
Great advice!
Thanks Caleb! Did you see my story about the spring?
House / Work yes I did. Thank you for showing me. Gunna pick up the springs next time I can get to Home Depot!
Hey there, sounds like your doing well with your new mill, however I strongly suggest taking a machine tool course to do it safely, having your tooling on a magnet above your head is a huge No,no, just thought I would throw a bone there. Have a blessed day.🙂
Thanks for the heads up, any particular reason why I shouldn’t have the tooling there?
@@HouseMadeUS tooling drops gets pinched into work piece and endmill or drill as you are working or gets gets snagged on drill chips and.....It's just dangerous , I've been a Journey man machinist for 20 years and been in some hairy situations where bad things have happened even in small machines, Just please trust me.😉
I see. Okay that makes sense. I’ll adjust. I appreciate you taking the time to explain. 👊🏻
Looks like a nice little mill especially if you got a deal on it, but if you were spending 2-3K on one, I'd buy a used Bridgeport mill instead.
Thanks Roger, yeah I really love having this tool. One day I will have a bridgeport! :)
Used Bridgeports can be pretty clapped out. Moving a Bridgeport mill is no easy task either.
if anyone know’s the answer it’s this guy..i asked this old engineering shop operator (50years+) what cutting fluid the cutting/cooling fluid he used
he said milk/water mix not sure on the ratio but he had a shop FULL of these type of tools and he uses that on EVERYTHING
Milk is full of sugar and will get sticky and will stink. Give it a try and report back to us.
Shame its a round column, I think I have seen it in a square version that is much more accurate for milling. If I remember Winkys workshop channel did a few updates to improve his.