Flash programming has been around since 1994. Availability to the aftermarket available in 1997 with the purchase of some limited manufacturers. 1998 it became almost a standard that new computers will require programming. 2000 I purchased factory tools and started the journey. Let me just say you should be very happy youre coming into this now and not back then. We had no support , no tech lines , no instructions at all.
Hi Keith, wish I could meet you and the guys this weekend. Your videos have encouraged me to start the journey! I'm a 60+ year old DIY, any suggestions on the right j2534 tool for my new 2006 tribute ( and 99 Ram, and ?) I've seen the VMC 2 Ford AND Mazda version, Autoenginuity (I have their scantool), Mongoose, Cardaq. I see I'll need a laptop and the OTC battery tender as well. Hope your weekend goes well.
I have a 2016 Chrysler and about a year after purchasing it, I got a message on the "infotainment" system that an update was available and I should follow the instructions. Had to leave the ignition on engine off for 20 minutes while it downloaded. This is a Chrysler 200 V6 FWD. The download was successful. I am an old timer and all this electronic jazz just dazzles me. It is now 2018 and the car has 18K miles on it with no issues other than tire air pressure with radical outdoor temps. But judging by the length of the queue at the only free air pump around when there is a cold snap, it must be common occurrence.
Been wanting to get into this for the past year. With my barn/shop project going on, I haven't been able to. You guys are the only people I know that do this sort of thing! None of my friends are in the industry - they gave up working on cars when carburetors disappeared. Some days I wonder if I should've done the same ... 😁 Great video, and thanks for the links - going to jot that info down in the notebook.
I just got done doing side work with some Honda dealerships. The 2018's now communicate to Honda over the internet via a specially configured WiFi, and then the technician logs into a website at Honda and can do all code reading, troubleshooting, and load software updates. They call it the AHMOTA system. While you can get standard ODBII data from them with a scan tool all the programming, mfg specific data, and advanced diags have to happen via the AHMOTA system. I had trouble getting it up and going at first because of firewall issues, and the dealers had cars they couldn't fix till I got it up and going.
Interesting. I wondered when this was going to happen. The dealerships want their money......I wonder if the pcm is password protected or by other means that keep the programming etc unreachable through the ODB II port.
Wow... companies never secure their systems, it'll probably be hacked. Someone will program "Grandma mode" and limit them to 20mph lol. Or worse, disable safety features, modify it just enough to cause accidents, etc. So much bad in this "Internet of Things" BS.
That's a whole different discipline and one I'm just starting to read about myself. Thanks for the links. I'm not kidding myself to say I'll be doing any flashing or programming but it's good information just the same. Thanks again Eric.
What burns me is when I have called my local Ford and Dodge dealer in the past about a couple different modules that needed to be replaced, I specifically asked if those modules needed to be flashed to work, or if they were stand alone plug and play, because I suspected the former.. 3 times I got burned by the parts counter guys.. They were not plug and play, and I did not have the software to reflash them. Luckily, my buddy did and I paid him to come over and use his equipment. Now I don't trust these yoyos at all, and Google the modules 1st to see if I can do the job or not. I've been surprised about which modules have to be flashed when replaced, as well as just plug in and have a nice day... Just thought I'd share that.
Thank you for the info. I need to check that update site for my daughter's Honda CRV. Also, that battery charger beats a jumper box with a power cord plugged in to maintain the battery! (Personal experience with that one on two 2008 Ford F550's programming the ECM's for those vehicles!) Oh ya......Great Video!
I would to thank Mr. Eric of South Main Auto channel and David Pike of Motorcity Mechanic he's the one who lead to this channel. I find the videos to very educational and informational since I study auto repairs and watch a select few of youtube channel on repairs and this channel one of them. Thanks for the info on OBDcodes.com, NASTF, and the repairs videos. I plan on watching your playlist repairs videos when I get the chance to and leave another comment when I'm done. Thanks for thread repair video you did awhile back with the thread saver kit. It did not occurred to me that you can use a large cotton swab like that to clean the spark plug threads. I've seen a large cotton swab like that in a diesel fuel injector cleaning kit in an automotive magazine, I think the kit was by Lang Tools. Its been a real privilege to watch your repair videos and hope to see more helpful videos.
I try to stay with older cars and trucks in my family as a dyi'er if I can't work on it or at least change the spark plugs in a reasonable fashion we don't buy it lol late 90's up to 2008 that it is for us
Always makes me wonder, In this case the vehicle is 9 years old and has run fine in all those years, Then a P0128 code has been set for some reason. Why after 9 years dose it set this code and need only a software update when nothing has changed on the vehicle? Is there some kind of time cut off programmed into the ECU? I just don't get my head around why. This is not a comment on why or how Eric is doing this job but just general confusion with updates alone fixing things. Yes I get the reasoning behind updates when replacing newer components as Eric mentioned with intake runner flaps etc.
Lots of reasons. Component values in the engine computer sensor circuit might drift with age causing skewed readings. The sensor itself might skew with age. Or more simply maybe the car lived in a warmer climate until recently.
You know, I thought this exact same thing. Here's my reasoning: The vehicle is equipped with a 180 degree thermostat. Eric O. mentioned that the freeze-frame showed 170 degrees at the time of failure. As I've observed, once a vehicle reaches it's thermostat temperature, it will stay at that temperature and perhaps rise above that under certain conditions. That's normal--the thermostat's job is to keep the engine at it's rated temperature plus a maximum of about 20 degrees above (so a maximum of 200 degrees here). I figure the original programming worked off this logic. When the ECM saw coolant temperature drop below the rated temperature without the engine being shut off first, the ECM flagged this as a problem. In this case, I wouldn't be surprised if the likely-original 11 year old, 187,000 mile thermostat has become sluggish. When the engine coolant cools down, the old thermostat doesn't close as quickly as it did when it was new, tending to keep the coolant at a lower temperature. So, it's likely that the programming update simply gives a broader tolerance region for temperature control. I wouldn't be surprised if a new thermostat, even with the old ECM program, would eliminate the P0128 code from recurring.
I used to wonder like that. 2 things came to mind. One! Preset by Honda to avoid a recall. Two! The power train in general ages, like us all, except the operating parameters exceed the "Outer Limits" of operation and so Honda just widens the parameter walls to make the ECM or PCM happy.
Soon I myself will have to deal with collision avoidance systems. Right now New Flyer which is one of the makes of Buses I work on are now in the development stages of incorporating these systems on their buses.
Two things, I currently Invested in the Autel Elite and have been using there J2534 flash programmer and its been working good. Works with GM GDS as well. The second thing is explain to the people what a clean power source means. I know what it means and have been using the Midtronic GR8 for years.
A couple months back, they fixed an EVAP error code on my 13 year old Volvo with a software update that allowed it to pass the California emissions test. No other work on the system was needed, just software. Always check for updates as some manufacturers will produce safety and emissions control software updates more than a decade after the car was manufactured.
I always get scared that If my car needs flashing or software updates that most service facilities will not have the proper equipment or knowledge to do it correctly. As Eric O pointed out, you can quickly turn your cars computer into a brick if you're not careful. Nice to see that main site has all the needed info on how to get what u need if you're going to involve yourself in that field.
As you mentioned, lane departure and collision avoidance systems are making this more difficult, I imagine self driving cars will more difficult even still.
My stepdad has a 1990 Chevy extended cab p/u with less than 70k on it. Maybe worth buying it when opportunity arises? I believe someone like me with my limited auto mechanic skills could keep it running for a while longer without taking college level courses!
Those systems are simpler, but harder to figure out when something goes wrong because they only set trouble codes for the most obvious problems, and if you want any live data then you need to track down some scan tool with GM OBD-I support instead of using any number of cheap OBD-II devices.
It´s so easy to flash vehicles in the US... almost a DIY Job.. in Europe flashing vehicle is treated as ultra secret that only few can do ... and on modern cars only with permission from the manufacturer...
That is the same exact way we update software at the dealer. Usually only pays .2 warranty 😂😂. During the summer time I usually throw a jump box on it and do the updates. #Flatratelife
It is interesting that the basic design of the OTC 700a, which is no longer available as per my search, has the same basic specifications and form factor as Baum Tools B70A, also no longer available, and the Schumacher INC100, which despite the model number and 100 Amp claim, is only 70 Amp continuous. From what I can tell all three are 70 Amp continuous for the vehicle power maintainer function. The problem with these units (or unit, because I think they are basically all the same design) is the output voltage noise level at higher current levels, say 55 Amps, is greater than the old industry vehicle maintainer (vehicle reprogramming, vehicle re-flasher) spec of +/- 50 mV P-P, and worse when connected to jump start posts under hood. Unfortunately, the units summarized above do not provide a noise specification on the output at different current levels in their data sheets or user manuals. It would be very interesting if you could measure the output noise riding on the DC at lets say 13.4 VDC set regulated voltage at a load of 20, 50 and 70 Amps. I have been very disappointed with my Schumacher charger/maintainer products for output noise. The reason being the regulated design now uses a switching regulator approach and not a linear regulated approach. The older and now discontinued Midtronics PSC-550s, which was recommended by GM for module re-flashing, was trying to achieve the +/- 50 mV P-P noise specification at an output of 55 Amps while connected at the vehicle under hood battery top posts, but I think it only achieved this spec at 20 Amps at 13.4 VDC regulated output when new. In summary, beware of what the maintainers are actually imposing on the vehicle power supply in the form of electric noise, which is even a greater concern when maintaining to jump start posts, which, being remote from the battery, have even less of a filtering effect.
I’m getting called to a shop for a 2013 civic to update the instrument cluster for a tsb. Not sure if it’ll be listed on the list of modules that can be programmed…..
Hi, Film a video about NASTF VSP license that won't everybody be able to get. According to your experience, what are the things that are done with a scan tool (without VSP) we are not gonna be able to do after scan tool validation goes into effect? I guess some mechanics are not gonna be able to swap modules after scan tool validation goes into effect. Thank you
nice video. im trying to reflash a 2010 civic ecu with my j2534 passthrough. I followed every link described in the nastf website and I cant find anywhere to order the honda rewrite software
Could you have done this with the Autel? I'm looking for my first bi-directional scan tool, any recommendations on what it should be? I can't afford the snap-on. Thanks for the great videos, Todd
How do you figure out how much to charge for reflashing. What lap top do you use? I keep reading you need a segmented lap top to use multiple manufactures? What do you know about that.
how do you like the otc battery maintainer for flashing?? and also how do you justify the cost for programming when the tsb only shows 0.2 warranty time/maybe 0.5 for customer??your j2534tool and subscption cost a lot ,or do you stock couple hondas that require programming and do it at the same time???
Hey all... In one of the SMA vids he gave a source for ecm/pcms..I went there looked around and great...then my old age drew a blank and can't find the source he mentioned...help.....
The Autel alone doesn't do programming, you still need a VCI to work with it. Plus there are some makes that use specific software that only runs on Windows and not on Android.
For Honda you pay only to access HDS, they have daily/weekly/monthly and yearly subscription plans. The daily plans are about $10-$20 per day, you can flash/diag as many cars as you can get to during that 24 hour period. What you really need is a good J2534 passthru cable/interface. I've looked at the Drew Tech's Mongoose, but they're $483, a bit steep for the avg DIYer, anyone hear of an alternate option?
this is what I hate new cars, because the programming is really tough and manufactures don't give this information to the public of how the components communicate each other and different signals
Anyone know of a good Honda J2534 Pass Thru interface for the DIYer? Drew Tech's Mongoose is about the cheapest I've seen but it's $483. I've tried the cheap Chinese hacks of the Drew Tech's interface from Amazon, but it didn't work. You really only need the cable to be able to communicate and allow passthru onto the PCM/ECM, Honda's HDS does the all the rest and it's a free download from Honda, one just pays for the day/week/month/year subscription.
Working on Communications Systems, our Company charged 140.00 pr Hour...How much do you charge 70.00. Theres Mechanical work and there is Computer troubleshooting work. Do not get the to mixed up, and charge according to what you are doing. Its gonna get locked up by the Mauf real soon. I witnessed it in our Industry, its now happening in yours.
I noticed that is why I commented, drew tech toolbox says Honda, Ford and Mazda software has conflicts when installed together and recommends having them partitioned separately. I have not run them on the same partition, so I can not confirm to have seen any issues first hand
Flash programming has been around since 1994. Availability to the aftermarket available in 1997 with the purchase of some limited manufacturers. 1998 it became almost a standard that new computers will require programming. 2000 I purchased factory tools and started the journey. Let me just say you should be very happy youre coming into this now and not back then. We had no support , no tech lines , no instructions at all.
Hi Keith, wish I could meet you and the guys this weekend. Your videos have encouraged me to start the journey! I'm a 60+ year old DIY, any suggestions on the right j2534 tool for my new 2006 tribute ( and 99 Ram, and ?) I've seen the VMC 2 Ford AND Mazda version, Autoenginuity (I have their scantool), Mongoose, Cardaq. I see I'll need a laptop and the OTC battery tender as well. Hope your weekend goes well.
Great info, Keith!
Keith back then was the laptop even a viable purchase 😂😂
Kenny B actually NO! We had to use pcmcia cards loaded off a desktop pc 😄😄
Does the master tech work as a full function scanner too or just for programming?
I have a 2016 Chrysler and about a year after purchasing it, I got a message on the "infotainment" system that an update was available and I should follow the instructions. Had to leave the ignition on engine off for 20 minutes while it downloaded. This is a Chrysler 200 V6 FWD. The download was successful. I am an old timer and all this electronic jazz just dazzles me. It is now 2018 and the car has 18K miles on it with no issues other than tire air pressure with radical outdoor temps. But judging by the length of the queue at the only free air pump around when there is a cold snap, it must be common occurrence.
Pook Atim gotta love it
Been wanting to get into this for the past year. With my barn/shop project going on, I haven't been able to. You guys are the only people I know that do this sort of thing! None of my friends are in the industry - they gave up working on cars when carburetors disappeared. Some days I wonder if I should've done the same ... 😁
Great video, and thanks for the links - going to jot that info down in the notebook.
Thanks Eric, Keith and others for putting out like this. It is very much appreciated.
I just got done doing side work with some Honda dealerships. The 2018's now communicate to Honda over the internet via a specially configured WiFi, and then the technician logs into a website at Honda and can do all code reading, troubleshooting, and load software updates. They call it the AHMOTA system. While you can get standard ODBII data from them with a scan tool all the programming, mfg specific data, and advanced diags have to happen via the AHMOTA system. I had trouble getting it up and going at first because of firewall issues, and the dealers had cars they couldn't fix till I got it up and going.
Wow Tom, that's crazy. You getting some cool experience though. Awesome.
Sounds interesting. Hope nobody has a car out of action next time someone breaks the Internet with their fat ass ;)
Interesting. I wondered when this was going to happen. The dealerships want their money......I wonder if the pcm is password protected or by other means that keep the programming etc unreachable through the ODB II port.
This is when "obsolete" cars win that race.
Wow... companies never secure their systems, it'll probably be hacked. Someone will program "Grandma mode" and limit them to 20mph lol. Or worse, disable safety features, modify it just enough to cause accidents, etc. So much bad in this "Internet of Things" BS.
That's a whole different discipline and one I'm just starting to read about myself. Thanks for the links. I'm not kidding myself to say I'll be doing any flashing or programming but it's good information just the same. Thanks again Eric.
That was pretty zippy-zap fast and smooth. Looks like Honda has a straightforward and friendly system. Thanks for the info Dr. O!
What burns me is when I have called my local Ford and Dodge dealer in the past about a couple different modules that needed to be replaced, I specifically asked if those modules needed to be flashed to work, or if they were stand alone plug and play, because I suspected the former.. 3 times I got burned by the parts counter guys.. They were not plug and play, and I did not have the software to reflash them. Luckily, my buddy did and I paid him to come over and use his equipment. Now I don't trust these yoyos at all, and Google the modules 1st to see if I can do the job or not. I've been surprised about which modules have to be flashed when replaced, as well as just plug in and have a nice day... Just thought I'd share that.
Thank you for the info. I need to check that update site for my daughter's Honda CRV. Also, that battery charger beats a jumper box with a power cord plugged in to maintain the battery! (Personal experience with that one on two 2008 Ford F550's programming the ECM's for those vehicles!)
Oh ya......Great Video!
Gotta be a pc whiz to work on cars anymore! great info and video!
I would to thank Mr. Eric of South Main Auto channel and David Pike of Motorcity Mechanic he's the one who lead to this channel. I find the videos to very educational and informational since I study auto repairs and watch a select few of youtube channel on repairs and this channel one of them. Thanks for the info on OBDcodes.com, NASTF, and the repairs videos. I plan on watching your playlist repairs videos when I get the chance to and leave another comment when I'm done. Thanks for thread repair video you did awhile back with the thread saver kit. It did not occurred to me that you can use a large cotton swab like that to clean the spark plug threads. I've seen a large cotton swab like that in a diesel fuel injector cleaning kit in an automotive magazine, I think the kit was by Lang Tools. Its been a real privilege to watch your repair videos and hope to see more helpful videos.
I try to stay with older cars and trucks in my family as a dyi'er if I can't work on it or at least change the spark plugs in a reasonable fashion we don't buy it lol late 90's up to 2008 that it is for us
Always makes me wonder,
In this case the vehicle is 9 years old and has run fine in all those years,
Then a P0128 code has been set for some reason.
Why after 9 years dose it set this code and need only a software update when nothing has changed on the vehicle?
Is there some kind of time cut off programmed into the ECU?
I just don't get my head around why.
This is not a comment on why or how Eric is doing this job but just general confusion with updates alone fixing things.
Yes I get the reasoning behind updates when replacing newer components as Eric mentioned with intake runner flaps etc.
Lots of reasons. Component values in the engine computer sensor circuit might drift with age causing skewed readings. The sensor itself might skew with age. Or more simply maybe the car lived in a warmer climate until recently.
You know, I thought this exact same thing. Here's my reasoning: The vehicle is equipped with a 180 degree thermostat. Eric O. mentioned that the freeze-frame showed 170 degrees at the time of failure. As I've observed, once a vehicle reaches it's thermostat temperature, it will stay at that temperature and perhaps rise above that under certain conditions. That's normal--the thermostat's job is to keep the engine at it's rated temperature plus a maximum of about 20 degrees above (so a maximum of 200 degrees here). I figure the original programming worked off this logic. When the ECM saw coolant temperature drop below the rated temperature without the engine being shut off first, the ECM flagged this as a problem. In this case, I wouldn't be surprised if the likely-original 11 year old, 187,000 mile thermostat has become sluggish. When the engine coolant cools down, the old thermostat doesn't close as quickly as it did when it was new, tending to keep the coolant at a lower temperature. So, it's likely that the programming update simply gives a broader tolerance region for temperature control. I wouldn't be surprised if a new thermostat, even with the old ECM program, would eliminate the P0128 code from recurring.
I used to wonder like that. 2 things came to mind. One! Preset by Honda to avoid a recall. Two! The power train in general ages, like us all, except the operating parameters exceed the "Outer Limits" of operation and so Honda just widens the parameter walls to make the ECM or PCM happy.
Soon I myself will have to deal with collision avoidance systems. Right now New Flyer which is one of the makes of Buses I work on are now in the development stages of incorporating these systems on their buses.
busjockey1 😄😄 yaaay welcome to the fun stuff !
I wonder when they will make collision avoidance for motor bikes 😎
Two things, I currently Invested in the Autel Elite and have been using there J2534 flash programmer and its been working good. Works with GM GDS as well. The second thing is explain to the people what a clean power source means. I know what it means and have been using the Midtronic GR8 for years.
Just curious how you like the autel? Ive been thinking of buying it and have seen the deal where it comes with a J2534 VCI, looks pretty interesting.
This is a great time to get into programming.
Great VDO Bro..... all I have right now is Mongoose for GM, but will get to that new level soon I hope....keep up the great work.
Not even a can of Brake cleaner required "DONG!!" :)
Oh God the future is here, Can't wait till we get to divorce our cars or sue them for bad financial advice.
A couple months back, they fixed an EVAP error code on my 13 year old Volvo with a software update that allowed it to pass the California emissions test. No other work on the system was needed, just software. Always check for updates as some manufacturers will produce safety and emissions control software updates more than a decade after the car was manufactured.
I always get scared that If my car needs flashing or software updates that most service facilities will not have the proper equipment or knowledge to do it correctly. As Eric O pointed out, you can quickly turn your cars computer into a brick if you're not careful. Nice to see that main site has all the needed info on how to get what u need if you're going to involve yourself in that field.
As you mentioned, lane departure and collision avoidance systems are making this more difficult, I imagine self driving cars will more difficult even still.
Yeah the money you have to spend to work on a car is crazy almost seems like it's not worth it.
Just how the OEMs want it. unfortunately.
So refreshing lecture
Probably should have kicked the tires, cause we know that fixes most things. 😂 LOL 😂
Someone is up early this morning.
I was waiting for windows to BSOD in middle of flashing :))
My stepdad has a 1990 Chevy extended cab p/u with less than 70k on it. Maybe worth buying it when opportunity arises? I believe someone like me with my limited auto mechanic skills could keep it running for a while longer without taking college level courses!
Those systems are simpler, but harder to figure out when something goes wrong because they only set trouble codes for the most obvious problems, and if you want any live data then you need to track down some scan tool with GM OBD-I support instead of using any number of cheap OBD-II devices.
It´s so easy to flash vehicles in the US... almost a DIY Job.. in Europe flashing vehicle is treated as ultra secret that only few can do ... and on modern cars only with permission from the manufacturer...
That is the same exact way we update software at the dealer. Usually only pays .2 warranty 😂😂. During the summer time I usually throw a jump box on it and do the updates. #Flatratelife
Can u do a little video on the repair history on that particular Honda CR-V, since it close to the 200 k miles ?
It is interesting that the basic design of the OTC 700a, which is no longer available as per my search, has the same basic specifications and form factor as Baum Tools B70A, also no longer available, and the Schumacher INC100, which despite the model number and 100 Amp claim, is only 70 Amp continuous.
From what I can tell all three are 70 Amp continuous for the vehicle power maintainer function. The problem with these units (or unit, because I think they are basically all the same design) is the output voltage noise level at higher current levels, say 55 Amps, is greater than the old industry vehicle maintainer (vehicle reprogramming, vehicle re-flasher) spec of +/- 50 mV P-P, and worse when connected to jump start posts under hood.
Unfortunately, the units summarized above do not provide a noise specification on the output at different current levels in their data sheets or user manuals.
It would be very interesting if you could measure the output noise riding on the DC at lets say 13.4 VDC set regulated voltage at a load of 20, 50 and 70 Amps. I have been very disappointed with my Schumacher charger/maintainer products for output noise. The reason being the regulated design now uses a switching regulator approach and not a linear regulated approach.
The older and now discontinued Midtronics PSC-550s, which was recommended by GM for module re-flashing, was trying to achieve the +/- 50 mV P-P noise specification at an output of 55 Amps while connected at the vehicle under hood battery top posts, but I think it only achieved this spec at 20 Amps at 13.4 VDC regulated output when new.
In summary, beware of what the maintainers are actually imposing on the vehicle power supply in the form of electric noise, which is even a greater concern when maintaining to jump start posts, which, being remote from the battery, have even less of a filtering effect.
I’m getting called to a shop for a 2013 civic to update the instrument cluster for a tsb. Not sure if it’ll be listed on the list of modules that can be programmed…..
Eric, great video and great info!!!!!!!!!!
This looks like you reprogram all the modules on the car with updates available? And not just the ecm or tcm?
Hi,
Film a video about NASTF VSP license that won't everybody be able to get. According to your experience, what are the things that are done with a scan tool (without VSP) we are not gonna be able to do after scan tool validation goes into effect? I guess some mechanics are not gonna be able to swap modules after scan tool validation goes into effect.
Thank you
Was your civic needing this tsb done as well
nice video. im trying to reflash a 2010 civic ecu with my j2534 passthrough. I followed every link described in the nastf website and I cant find anywhere to order the honda rewrite software
Could you have done this with the Autel? I'm looking for my first bi-directional scan tool, any recommendations on what it should be? I can't afford the snap-on.
Thanks for the great videos, Todd
Money lights on i like that! Thats true
thanks for the great videos !!
nice video with great info thanks
Thinking of getting the bosh vci for my project when i replace my autel
Very helpful thanks
Thanks for the video.
How do you figure out how much to charge for reflashing.
What lap top do you use?
I keep reading you need a segmented lap top to use multiple manufactures?
What do you know about that.
Hay Eric can you make a tip and tricks video
Hello... how are you? a question please, can i update Honda vehicles using Honda HIM using the J2534 pass thru ??
7:10 The next step is to ensure we did not turn it into a brick, LMAO
how do you like the otc battery maintainer for flashing?? and also how do you justify the cost for programming when the tsb only shows 0.2 warranty time/maybe 0.5 for customer??your j2534tool and subscption cost a lot ,or do you stock couple hondas that require programming and do it at the same time???
So far so good, and I charge a flat programming fee no matter what make or model
Did you flash the CVT after checking the TCB off camera?
i have a ktuner tool/obd2. Am I able to use this to flash updates with the i-HDS software?
Interesting video .
Can i reprogram the accord 2004 CL7 model?
It's getting more complicated and I'm already confused.
Hi do you need a locksmith ID to reflash or reprogram a pcm/ ecm?
on the hondas if you pull the ebrake and then turn the key on the headlights wont stay on.
Hey all... In one of the SMA vids he gave a source for ecm/pcms..I went there looked around and great...then my old age drew a blank and can't find the source he mentioned...help.....
Why do I only own pre 1990 vehicles? (trick question)
Nice!
I hear Cardone has flash equipment.... Any thoughts?
mike fedele no support , go with Drewtech or Aetools
😆
Been doing good with the Autel. Nissan, Honda, GM, Ford, Dodge, Toyota but good luck with support from them.
New Level Auto thank you I did some looking at it and it looks good. I just need to find a reasonable dealer up here in Ontario Canada. Thanks again
So is it not wise to flash/program with the autel now?
The Autel alone doesn't do programming, you still need a VCI to work with it. Plus there are some makes that use specific software that only runs on Windows and not on Android.
Hello! Can you help me with calib files for my Honda CR-V
I need millimeter radar and camera files
36163 -TLA-A050
36803-Tla A04/05
Do we have to pay for the update?
Depends on the update, manufacturer, and if it's recall/warranty related. Most of the time you pay for the updates.
For Honda you pay only to access HDS, they have daily/weekly/monthly and yearly subscription plans. The daily plans are about $10-$20 per day, you can flash/diag as many cars as you can get to during that 24 hour period. What you really need is a good J2534 passthru cable/interface. I've looked at the Drew Tech's Mongoose, but they're $483, a bit steep for the avg DIYer, anyone hear of an alternate option?
So how many bricks have you made?
Depends on what Mrs. O. serves for lunch.
this is what I hate new cars, because the programming is really tough and manufactures don't give this information to the public of how the components communicate each other and different signals
Anyone know of a good Honda J2534 Pass Thru interface for the DIYer? Drew Tech's Mongoose is about the cheapest I've seen but it's $483. I've tried the cheap Chinese hacks of the Drew Tech's interface from Amazon, but it didn't work. You really only need the cable to be able to communicate and allow passthru onto the PCM/ECM, Honda's HDS does the all the rest and it's a free download from Honda, one just pays for the day/week/month/year subscription.
Miami13 did you find anything yet? I'm curious and I hds requires subscription right? No way to crack their software?
Working on Communications Systems, our Company charged 140.00 pr Hour...How much do you charge 70.00. Theres Mechanical work and there is Computer troubleshooting work. Do not get the to mixed up, and charge according to what you are doing. Its gonna get locked up by the Mauf real soon. I witnessed it in our Industry, its now happening in yours.
Ford and Honda programming software on the same OS, isn't that trouble waiting to happen?
I have Ford, GM, Chrysler, Toyota, Honda, Hyundai and Kia all on this laptop.
I noticed that is why I commented, drew tech toolbox says Honda, Ford and Mazda software has conflicts when installed together and recommends having them partitioned separately. I have not run them on the same partition, so I can not confirm to have seen any issues first hand
It might be time to burn your hat, ha.
jcbecker28 😂
M
First
Gaby Merza ... hahahah!