Perfect! I've watched a few of these and only this one gave me all the relevant info I needed. Simple and straightforward AND actually helpful! When you showed how you cut the pipe, I remembered that this was the way my dad used to do it whenever he had to do a bit of plumbing. Yeesh - I wasted almost a foot of PVC last night trying to get a straight cut! :-D
Great video. Simple and to the point. Quick question: is it necessary to chamfer or bevel 3/4" PVC. I'm setting some sprinkler lines and don't wan't to buy a $70 tool. I've seen gardeners go without chamfering and the work holds up. Any thoughts on that?
Hey Bob. I will be doing my first drain job next week and wondering if priming is necessary for black ABS plastic drain joints? I have only seen yellow ABS glue used in my experiences. I am also in Canada for your information. I imagine this white PVC material is slightly different?
Paul, we don't see ABS in the new york all that often. I know it's popular in new jersey and it's my understanding that in general,they don't prime ABS. They just use the yellow glue. I will tell you that I've seen videos where they do prime the ABS and it probably can't hurt. Schedule 40 PVC is the most popular form of plastic pipe in around the city. It's code requirement to use the purple primer (inspectors want evidence that you used it). Truth be told on repair work, I use clear primer for a clean neat appearance. In either case, make square cuts and de-burr the inside and outside of the pipe before attempting to glue. Best of Luck....Bob.
Hi Bob, love your videos and thanks so much for your generous sharing of your wonderful tips. You are one great teacher. What leatherman tool did you use in this video and what do you recommend as a must have in a plumber's tool bag?
Thanks for the kind words Rex, much appreciated ! I use the Leatherman Super Tool 300-amzn.to/1D2yBjb which in my opinion is one of the best multi-tools on the market. Pricey? Yes, but I can't tell you how many trips in and out of the truck this tool has saved me. My Leatherman and flashlight is all I need to do my initial diagnosis on any job. More videos in the works, keep coming back. HAPPY PLUMBING!
Thanks for the explanation. question: How do you you replace a broken/cracked section of PVC piping? Meaning, when both ends are cut and cleaned and neither end has the luxury of moving apart? How do you bonds both at the same time. Thanks for your insight…
+Robert Ma I'll assume we're talking about drain lines? If I'm making a repair on a short run of pipe with absolutely no lateral movement, I'm going to A. Cut the pipe back to a point where I can get that lateral movement and use either a P.V.C. glue type union fitting or the appropriate size nu-hub coupling or Fernco coupling.B. If that's not an option, I most likely would use two no-hub or Fernco couplings and slip a short piece of pipe in place to make the repair. Hope that helps! Regards, Bob.
each connector has a little bead inside for the pipe to stop on and not push all the way through. my question is... how can you get the pipe to always reach and seat on the bead? I use the clear primer and get plenty on both pieces. I typically only glue the pipe and then press them together and give that quarter turn. sometimes that is very difficult to do. I wonder if tapering the end of the pipe might aid in getting the pieces together more easily? any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.
What is paramount in my opinion is cutting the pipe absolutely square by using either a manual or battery powered P.V.C. Cutter. The fitting should be clean with no visible burrs and by applying primer and glue to both the fitting and pipe you shouldn’t have any issues. Prior to purchasing my Milwaukee M-12 P.V.C. Cutter, I would use a hacksaw, de burr the fitting and pipe and generally did not have any trouble. If you want you can file a mild chamfer on the outer edge of the pipe to help make a better fit.
The hacksaw is the most efficient! Instead of using to saw "in reverse", turn the blade around to suit the cutting control needed. I prefer a DRAW-SAW, cutting on the pull.
Bob I am putting in a trap for a shower stall. when joining the "U" portion of the trap to the drain tail piece and Trap elbow I wont be able to twist the fitting; will it matter?
Standard P.V.C. Glue: amzn.to/2O2ABEu. May have been a little thick when I shot the video, I store the glue in my vehicle and in the cold weather it tends to thicken up! Thanks for the question! Regards, Bob.
if people are worried about the purple color . after inspection buy a can of plastic made for just that spray paint that will hide the purple color . make sure the glue you use is correct there are two types one for pressure lines and one for non pressure so look carefully before you buy the glue
Bob, I just piped in the drain lines for a double bowl utility tub in my basement laundry room. I cut the schedule 40 PVC pipe with a hacksaw and a lot of the ends were not square. Cleaned em up and primed and glued correctly. Am I good for this no pressure application or do you think those joints will fail?
Hi Bob, I need to make a water tight seal between two non threaded pvc joints that is tough but I'd like them to be removable if necessary to tighten a pvc end piece that is threaded and may need adjusting in the future... do you think silicone is a way I could do this?
Silicone will not last, frankly, it just doesn't work.Why do they have to be removable? Can you use a Union fitting? This is an example of a 1" union amzn.to/2q4hHBc. They come in all sizes from 1/2" to 2".
I thought about that solution too.... probably the most secure way. I am living off the grid a bit and was trying to solve a problem without going back to town. But I think your right this would be the most logical fix. I actually tried the silicone. In some places it held but where there was a significant load of water pressure, it only held for about 24hrs. Looks like a universal union piece like you mentioned is the way to go! Thanks for the reply!
Perfect! I've watched a few of these and only this one gave me all the relevant info I needed. Simple and straightforward AND actually helpful!
When you showed how you cut the pipe, I remembered that this was the way my dad used to do it whenever he had to do a bit of plumbing. Yeesh - I wasted almost a foot of PVC last night trying to get a straight cut! :-D
Great video - exactly what I needed for gluing under my bathroom sink. Thanks!
+Brian Rehm You're welcome Brian, thanks much for checking out my videos.HAPPY PLUMBING!
Great video. Simple and to the point.
Quick question: is it necessary to chamfer or bevel 3/4" PVC. I'm setting some sprinkler lines and don't wan't to buy a $70 tool. I've seen gardeners go without chamfering and the work holds up. Any thoughts on that?
Technically the answer would be yes, but truth be told you can just take file and soften the sharp edge and glue away! Regards, Bob.
Thanks Bob for your time..Very helpful
Thanks for showing and explaining!!
You're welcome Christopher, thanks for watching. HAPPY PLUMBING!
Hey Bob. I will be doing my first drain job next week and wondering if priming is necessary for black ABS plastic drain joints? I have only seen yellow ABS glue used in my experiences. I am also in Canada for your information. I imagine this white PVC material is slightly different?
Paul, we don't see ABS in the new york all that often. I know it's popular in new jersey and it's my understanding that in general,they don't prime ABS. They just use the yellow glue. I will tell you that I've seen videos where they do prime the ABS and it probably can't hurt. Schedule 40 PVC is the most popular form of plastic pipe in around the city. It's code requirement to use the purple primer (inspectors want evidence that you used it). Truth be told on repair work, I use clear primer for a clean neat appearance.
In either case, make square cuts and de-burr the inside and outside of the pipe before attempting to glue. Best of Luck....Bob.
Hi Bob, love your videos and thanks so much for your generous sharing of your wonderful tips. You are one great teacher. What leatherman tool did you use in this video and what do you recommend as a must have in a plumber's tool bag?
Thanks for the kind words Rex, much appreciated ! I use the Leatherman Super Tool 300-amzn.to/1D2yBjb which in my opinion is one of the best multi-tools on the market. Pricey? Yes, but I can't tell you how many trips in and out of the truck this tool has saved me. My Leatherman and flashlight is all I need to do my initial diagnosis on any job. More videos in the works, keep coming back. HAPPY PLUMBING!
Thanks bob
Thanks for the explanation. question: How do you you replace a broken/cracked section of PVC piping? Meaning, when both ends are cut and cleaned and neither end has the luxury of moving apart? How do you bonds both at the same time. Thanks for your insight…
+Robert Ma I'll assume we're talking about drain lines? If I'm making a repair on a short run of pipe with absolutely no lateral movement, I'm going to A. Cut the pipe back to a point where I can get that lateral movement and use either a P.V.C. glue type union fitting or the appropriate size nu-hub coupling or Fernco coupling.B. If that's not an option, I most likely would use two no-hub or Fernco couplings and slip a short piece of pipe in place to make the repair. Hope that helps! Regards, Bob.
each connector has a little bead inside for the pipe to stop on and not push all the way through. my question is... how can you get the pipe to always reach and seat on the bead? I use the clear primer and get plenty on both pieces. I typically only glue the pipe and then press them together and give that quarter turn. sometimes that is very difficult to do. I wonder if tapering the end of the pipe might aid in getting the pieces together more easily? any thoughts or suggestions are welcome.
What is paramount in my opinion is cutting the pipe absolutely square by using either a manual or battery powered P.V.C. Cutter. The fitting should be clean with no visible burrs and by applying primer and glue to both the fitting and pipe you shouldn’t have any issues. Prior to purchasing my Milwaukee M-12 P.V.C. Cutter, I would use a hacksaw, de burr the fitting and pipe and generally did not have any trouble. If you want you can file a mild chamfer on the outer edge of the pipe to help make a better fit.
What are the tests of bond strength with solvent-cement alone, without primer?
The hacksaw is the most efficient! Instead of using to saw "in reverse", turn the blade around to suit the cutting control needed. I prefer a DRAW-SAW, cutting on the pull.
Agreed ChucK! Thanks for stopping by. Regards, Bob.
ruclips.net/video/aAEYsiRyZbo/видео.html
How long does it take to dry before you can use it?
Pretty much immediately!
Bob I am putting in a trap for a shower stall. when joining the "U" portion of the trap to the drain tail piece and Trap elbow I wont be able to twist the fitting; will it matter?
Generously prime and apply glue to both ends to be joined, apply steady pressure to the u-bend and you should be good to go!
Thank you sir.
Thank you for checking out the video! Bob.
Can you let the primer dry then add glue? or is it better to add glue while primer is wet? Thanks
You want to glue immediately after applying the primer! regards, Bob.
You are a good(interesting) teache Bob.Kiwir
Thank You, Richard!
what kind of glue is that? It doesn't come out even with force right?
Standard P.V.C. Glue: amzn.to/2O2ABEu. May have been a little thick when I shot the video, I store the glue in my vehicle and in the cold weather it tends to thicken up! Thanks for the question! Regards, Bob.
Thanks, Bob.
Thank you for watching! Regards, Bob.
Isn't it a bad idea to set the pipe with primer down in the PVC shavings?
Not a good idea!
if people are worried about the purple color . after inspection buy a can of plastic made for just that spray paint that will hide the purple color . make sure the glue you use is correct there are two types one for pressure lines and one for non pressure so look carefully before you buy the glue
Bob, How critical is it to cut the pipe square?
You have to cut it square in order to achieve a good water tight joint1
Bob, I just piped in the drain lines for a double bowl utility tub in my basement laundry room. I cut the schedule 40 PVC pipe with a hacksaw and a lot of the ends were not square. Cleaned em up and primed and glued correctly. Am I good for this no pressure application or do you think those joints will fail?
Thanks Bob!
Very helpful thank you
Thank you for checking it out! Regards, Bob.
Do you have any tips on opening the Weld On can?
Maybe this will help you? ruclips.net/video/-CpgYUpNXaQ/видео.html
Or you could use a miter box saw and just make a little mark.
Your trusty leatherman tool at 3:05
Hi Bob, I need to make a water tight seal between two non threaded pvc joints that is tough but I'd like them to be removable if necessary to tighten a pvc end piece that is threaded and may need adjusting in the future... do you think silicone is a way I could do this?
Or perhaps plumbers caulking?
Silicone will not last, frankly, it just doesn't work.Why do they have to be removable? Can you use a Union fitting? This is an example of a 1" union
amzn.to/2q4hHBc. They come in all sizes from 1/2" to 2".
I thought about that solution too.... probably the most secure way. I am living off the grid a bit and was trying to solve a problem without going back to town. But I think your right this would be the most logical fix. I actually tried the silicone. In some places it held but where there was a significant load of water pressure, it only held for about 24hrs. Looks like a universal union piece like you mentioned is the way to go! Thanks for the reply!
Hi sir with full name and pvc full name ppr cvpc
Good basic info. video but you could have shortened that to 2 minutes instead of dragging it out to 8 minutes.
Thanks for the tip
@@BobsPlumbingVideos Thank you for replying. Just a constructive criticism.