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BETTER than Noise Reduction: RESCUE High ISO Pictures & Add DETAIL
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- Опубликовано: 17 авг 2024
- High ISO noise sucks. Noise reduction sucks, too, right? It makes your pictures look all waxy and kills detail.
This technique reduces noise while improving detail, and all you have to do is use a continuous shutter to snap a few pictures of your subject, and then spend about 5 minutes in Photoshop.
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Another big tip nobody talks about, *USE FULL ISO STOPS* Using 1/3 and sometimes even 1/2 stops will produce more noise than the next highest full stop due to SNR and processing. Also downsampling your images for either web or prints that are not huge will really help. I've recently printed some 13x19 images from my D850 taken at ISO 6400 and downsampled them to 16mp and they look amazing!
I know Im asking the wrong place but does anyone know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?
I stupidly lost my password. I love any tips you can give me.
@Kamryn Zahir instablaster =)
@Marc Jerry thanks for your reply. I found the site through google and I'm waiting for the hacking stuff atm.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
I just watched a RUclips vid on this technique for astrophotography. Stacking 8 astro shots at 8000+ ISO.....OMFG, the detail and lack of noise is awesome!
*FAQ:* No, you can't use multiple copies of a single image.
This technique is MUCH better than selective noise reduction. Selective noise reduction destroys detail, whereas this actually adds detail and color.
Median averaging isn't as effective as mean averaging, but I did test it.
If you don't have Photoshop and don't want to pay for CC, you can buy a used copy of Photoshop CS4 Extended or later (such as CS5 or CS6) on eBay.
You can use Gimp for free, but it lacks auto-align, so you would need to be using a tripod. This video shows you how to do the averaging in Gimp: ruclips.net/video/E-GbuXU8YMQ/видео.html
If you think my math is wrong, prove it with experimentation, and send the results to tony@northrup.org. I'll happily make the correction and thank you for the contribution. But my experiments support my math, which shows that the resulting noise levels from image averaging are exactly the same as that from capturing a single image using the same cumulative shutter time. In other words, it doesn't matter if you capture a 1/4 second exposure across 10 images or 1; the noise levels are identical. It's the total light gathered that determines the noise.
+Tony & Chelsea Northrup For aligning those using GIMP can use Hugin (hugin.sourceforge.net/) or Microsoft ICE (research.microsoft.com/en-us/um/redmond/projects/ice/), both are free, Hugin is open source, if my memory is correct ICE is closed source.
Nice video, most people don't know about this.
With respect to users of Gimp who want to auto-align images, they should check out an open source tool called Hugin. You can auto-align the images with that tool and then bring the fixed images into Gimp. pixls.us/articles/aligning-images-with-hugin/ is a good reference.
Oh Was my first thought!, what if I rename the same pictures 10 times!! :(
I did it once with 6 images. I went to try again and every import to ps is not several layers, so i cant select them to auto align. All selected images show up as one layer.
Tony & Chelsea Nort
Tony you're getting smarter and smarter.
And chiller))))
Yeah
haha next station star trek bridge working in shifts with Data :P
I love the duality between math, digital signal processing theory and your creative approach to photography :-)
Thanks for this one Tony. After watching I processed some night images taken in New Orleans just before Christmas shot with 5D MkIII and 16-35 2.8 LII Lazy as I am I didn't take a tripod as I walked around the city most of the night. Everything was shot manual at 1/60 at 2.8 auto ISO. I intended the shots to be B&W with that film grain look. The last series of images were shot across the river of the skyline as first light appeared. The camera was braced on a railing near the ferry with a series shot in burst mode. The colors were so good but the dark areas looked like sand had been sprinkled on them. Used this method with 11 frames and the resulting image is incredibly sharp and clean.
The difference on that moon photo is huge! Great tip Tony.
For an image like that, why not just double process a single image, where you do heavy noise reduction on one copy and blend it with another copy with less NR. This would probably be easier most of the time, and would give a similarly good result. This should work well in images where there's lots of out of focus background.
Tony, I cannot thank you enough for this video. I don't like shooting over ISO 400 with my Canon 70D but in low light situations it is inevitable with my telephoto lenses. (f5.6 and slower) This editing process gives me more confidence now when the situation requires using higher ISO's. Also, your book How To Create Stunning Digital Photography arrives tomorrow and I am looking forward to reading it. Thanks again for all of the great content!
Glad to help, and thanks for reading!
Ugh, I hate it when my moon gets all stretchy and movey
That's one sassy moon.
2017 will be the year that all stretchy and movey moons will be eradicated
Maya Slickis ¿theyre gonna eliminate moons?
Kyle Wolfe I read "mom" instead of moon - let me say I was confused ^^
I have it built in the camera - Sony A58. It is called "Multi frame noise reduction" and it is available in PASM modes (not in the auto modes). When I press the shutter with this enabled the camera makes multiple shots and then process them in a single one. The results are awesome.
LOVE these tips! Straight up genius!
Your brain speaks to my brain. I don't know why exactly, but sometimes, when you explain things, it just clicks. Awesome tutorial.
I've been stacking 20 exposures for my landscapes lately and I love how they turn out. It adds more than noise reduction. There's much more light and color data as well.
Yeah, agreed. I was really shocked at how much more color and detail I got out of the lighthouse picture. I think I stacked 30 images for that shot.
Have you tried it handheld vs on a tripod? I've heard claims that the shaking of your hand emulates the sensor shift like hi-res mode on the E-M1 and E-M5. I've also heard shooting on a tripod doesn't let the camera move enough, but I imagine it moves enough to shift over one pixel.
I use a 2x teleconverter to get bird photos and a lot of times I have to go up to ISO 1600/3200 with my 5d3 (gotta shoot at f/11 to get sharp results) this is soooo helpful for me can't wait to process my bird photos with this technique. Thanks!
This also works via gimp and G'MIC if you aren't looking to pay for adobe CC
That's true. Maybe the most simple is to use "auto_align_layer" from Hugin to align your pictures without manual intervention. Then the G'MIC plugin to make the "average" operation. Note that the "median" operation is also very clean. With the "median" operation, maybe noise reduction is a bit lower, but you probably won't have ghosts in the result.
My experience using the image alignment feature G'MIC has been aweful. It seems to look OK in the preview, but when you click to process it just moves the images further out of alignment than before. Also tried Hugin, but the results were even worse.
I don't know why RUclips suddenly recommends me this old video but it was worth watching. Much better than that Nikon Z50 mistake video recently!
This is unbelivably useful for some wedding photos inside the church where high ISO is unavoidable, especially for more scenic shoots inside the church this will be awesome, can't wait to try it
Can u apply it in wedding photos? Aint it gonna create motion blur? Since people move alot
This video is almost 4 years old and it just helped me save a very important image.
I use this technique very often for my astrophotos or to simulate a very strong ND-filter :) highly recommended and thanks for sharing Tony!
Ferdigrafie hey how do you implement this for astrophotos? As I was watching the video I was wondering if this could be used for astrophotography but I'm confused at the specifics. Like what settings do you use in camera, how do you avoid star trails etc.?
If you align based on the stars (rather than a terrestrial foreground), you won't get start trails. Just use the standard settings you would for taking a single image of the sky.
Fatima Hussain i use most times 25s @ 11mm on crop, F2.8 and ISO3200 or ISO6400 and take 8-16 pictures. for the foreground no alignment is required. for the sky i do manual alignment based on the stars. auto alignment will fail in most cases due to the distortion at the corners.
It's a really cool technique that I first discovered a few months ago. On my first attempt at using it I misunderstood the instructions. I was doing a simulated long exposure of a waterfall but massively underexposed each image. When I stacked in Photoshop the image came out horrifically dark, but because the noise had been almost entirely eliminated, I was able to ramp up the exposure slider in Lightroom to maximum and it actually turned out to be a pretty useable image. -> flic.kr/p/KhHvAV
I did some astro stuff last weekend - took about 45 minutes worth of 10 second exposures of Orion. I've stacked them in DeepSkyStacker but the effect wasn't quite what I was hoping for. I want to try this technique, but I suspect trying to import around 200x25Mb files into Photoshop might make my computer cry!
This is gonna be extremely useful for small sensors on drones and phones
Can you do this technique with one image copied half a dozen time instead of taking half a dozen images?
I did it once with an image of the moon and it kind of gave the same effect.
It will not work with multiple copies of the same image. The logic behind this is to extract only repeatable signals from different images and remove random ones (ie noice). If you copy the same image it will recognise the noice as a part of real image.
I'd heard about this technique but never used it. Thanks for demonstrating it so ably. I was able to try it successfully and I'm very pleased with the results, cheers!
This is like bracketing for high dynamic range but for noise. It takes advantage of the simple physics of the noise, which _must_ have a random element that the intended image (bird, landscape, etc.) doesn't. Outstanding. So good that camera makers and Adobe should be thinking about how to incorporate it as a single-step feature. For animators or After Effects users, this is somewhat like using a backplate to create a difference mask.
Very useful technique. I would expect that using "median" instead of "mean" would reduce the noise level to a similar extent but avoid most of the ghosting artifacts.
This method is well known to people who doing astrophotography, they using it all the time. no matter it is canon 60d astro or Hubble, picture becoming less and less noiser as u blending more and more picture, nice tip for beginners gj
Phenomenal tip!
Thanks, Eric!
ooohhh myyy!!! Milky Way, here I come (with my GX85!)
wont work...:/
It seems like it should work... why won't it work?
I would crop out any terrestrial foreground and just align the sky, then blend the foreground back in at the end.
It would definitely work, I think. It's definitely worth a try at the very least. Thanks for the reply, Tolsea!
I recommend you to check out the Lonley Speck channel, it covers exactly what you are loocking for :)
How would the workflow change if I needed to also stack the pictures for focus stacking? Hmm. This is a macro shot I'm talking about.
nice job showing the method to achieve this.
the Google Pixel uses this technique to achieve amazing low light images.
After seeing what is involved here it's impressive to see what Google has implemented in a single press of the shutter.
This is a fairly common technique used in medical imaging (e.g. MRI) and it is extremely useful when using those images in computer assisted surgery
Yeah. The latest software in phone cameras do this too. They take quick bursts of photos and align and brighten to reduce shadow noise.
Sony cameras have an Auto-ISO Multi-Frame noise reduction mode BUILT IN. It does exactly the same thing as this IN CAMERA and you don't need to use photoshop.
Yes, but it doesn't align the images very well, so the final blended image looks very soft.
It is working nice. Very similar effect can be achieved in Affinity Photo (which I use in everyday in photo editing) - place some images as layers in one document, select all layers, then go to 'Arrange' and chose "Live stack group". I tested this with pictures taken from tripod with high ISO. It seems that Affinity Photo does not have "Auto-Allign Layers" option.
Nice method that will help me a lot in cat and dog shows. No flashes allowed and bad lighting. This method will help a ton, thanks
Good trick Tony, I have tested on my D7000 and have worked fine... Tks for the advice.
Thanks Tony! And Chelsea!
I’ve learned so much from you two over this past few months, from your SDP book and your videos. You two are awesome!
Tony.. thanks for the tip . I've been using mean stacking but only on still objects .
One of the best RUclips videos I've seen for months.
Thanks Tony. I guess this is like Sony's multi-frame noise reduction (MFNR - maybe other manufacturers offer similar in-camera tools?) which blends several images but I guess the biggest advantage of your technique is that you have more control and it doesn't restrict you to using JPEGs from your camera. Now all I have to do is learn how to use Photoshop...
wow, Tony, your videos are so instructive. after 3 years of having my canon SL1 i was planning on switching for a full frame but i realize that i can still make great pictures on low light situations. Thanks for your time and consideration for all of us who want to gain more experience. 👍
Tony: Have you ever considered Photo Mechanic for culling and adding info?
5X the speed of the ingest of Lightroom, and it rocks on visual output to screen. You get the added bonus of making a .txt (like a Code Replacements file) with anything inside it for filling in the EXIF automatically.
Nice touch for high ISO work.
Yeah, I've used Photo Mechanic. It doesn't give you true 1:1 previews, though, so I didn't find it useful for my particular workflow.
That and it is extremely expensive if all you're going to use it for is culling.
One addition to the video:
The first photoshop version which supports this is CS4 _Extended_
... and one question:
Why do you use mean instead of median? Median should give slightly cleaner results (at least in theory).
Mean is better for noise reduction; it's just more effective because it uses every pixel from every image. Median does reduce noise, but each final pixel is only a single value from all the pictures (the middle value). That can be useful for removing moving subjects (like people walking through a frame) but it's not usually required.
This is actually not true. Both mean and median produce one new values based on the input and average/mean is always worse than median. Simple example, let's compare both techniques on a sequence of numbers and deceide for youreself which one is better suited for the task: 100, 104, 99, 103, 34
The average result of this is 88, median is 100. Imagine this would be the different brightness values from one pixel while you're stacking 5 images for a cleaner result. The value which falls out of place (34) is a noisy pixel, the thing you want to get rid of. Median is not affected by this and gives the correct result, mean doesn't.
Thanks Tony. I wish I knew this 5 years ago. You're a good teacher. I used this technique recently when I was shooting cathedral interiors in Lisbon. I was shooting with an EM1mkii and I have much cleaner images as a result.
You can use this technique in some situations, even if you did not take multiple exposures. Load your image into PS and make 4 or 5 duplicate layers. Then shift the second layer up by one pixel. Shift the next layer one pixel to the right, and so on. Then use the technique as described in the video. You may have to mask out bits of your image that you don't want blurred, but this can save a very noisy picture from being a disaster.
Isn't this basically what noise reduction software does anyway?
I use the Sony smooth reflection app often for this... It does give a fake ND effect, but also averages out noise. Stacking multiple pictures at ISO100 results in some amazingly crisp images. Tripod is a must. Probably not useful for anything handheld.
On that upgrading remark - I think you'll find, that majority of people want to upgrade /if ISO noise is considered/ to get more quality in shooting objects you prbbly won't be able to shoot multiple times and then stack the images :] But, yeah, great tip, sir!!!
Thank you very helpful. I will take advantage of multiple pictures next time I have really low light issues like this
Yes! I use this technique all the time for effective low-ISO landscapes. The results rival medium format.
very good trick to reduce noise. i use that technique a lot in Landscape it helps a lot. it makes images so much cleaner with a couple shoots. Thanks
One reason of many why the L16 camera will be HUGE! It will fire 10 shots at the same time and then does this image averageing (and HDR and much more) but with moving objects included because the 10 pictures are captured at the same time!
I just Tested this tip. AMAZING reduction. Very useful. Thanks for sharing.
Photomatix does this very fast and reliably. There is a plug-in called LREnfuse for Lightroom. It's also good but slow. I suggest about 10-16 images to get the optimal result.
Omg this is awesome! thanks a ton!
It's a great technique to get lower noise images. I experimented with this a few months ago. However I used 'median' to average out the noise. I don't thin there is a big difference between using 'mean' or 'median'.
Laughs in mathematician.
Median is the middle value of a sequence of values. Mean is all the values added up and divided by the number of values.
A single outlier at 255 or 0 can pull up or down the mean.
The median smooths out the differences to a middle point that may or may not be accurate if you have insufficient samples (one at 0 and one at 255 would give 1 at ~128)
If you have enough images, 100 or 200, use median, sure... If you have 2 or 3, use mean.
As long as u have Photoshop it won't cost u a thing , yeah nothing just my kidney
If someone wants a free alternative to this technique, you can use tools designed for astrophotography stacking (Sequator etc.). Those programs are usually free and surprisingly stable.
If done right, you can reduce noise, clear sensor hot spots, pull out incredible detail from RAW images, and get rid of vignetting as well.
But yeah, moving subjects in the shots can be a nuisance
nice tip. i always wanted to use blending to reduce noise
In my Canon 7D Mark II firmware (1.1.0) there is an option for multiple shot noise reduction. It's located in the Shoot3 tab. When one opens the High ISO speed NR menu item there is an option for Multi Shot Noise Reduction which states: "this applies noise reduction with higher image quality than [High]. For a single photo, four shots are taken continuously and aligned and merged automatically into a single JPEG image." Just wondering if this technique is similar to Tony's method.
EOS M has two functions that do this. There is the noise reduction and there is nightshot mode. The latter does more crop. The camera mode cannot selectively leave some parts out of the stacking so there cannot be any movement.
Sounds like it, but the Photoshop method will be more flexible (at the cost of more work). And the in-camera function only gives you a JPEG image where you probably want a RAW if you're planning on doing other image manipulation.
Thank you for sharing this tip. I've been using 80D with a 400 and it's quite noisy at 1600iso+ so this will be helpful to get good bird photos. I'm a Big fan of your videos, especially the extra technical/scientific ones.
He zoomed into his picture and it looks so sharp. I can see all the details of the feathers. Is it my lens or am by doing something wrong. My gear is a nikon d5300 with a 18-55 mm f3.5/5.6 af
This is some serious trick to have in my arsenal! Thx a lot Tony!
Personally I think the noise in the original was barely noticeable, and even when zoomed in to 100%, still looked very pleasant. But regardless, it's a very useful technique and the results were great!
Tony so mean
Smaakjeks K mean but not average
*****
I don't mind either way, to be honest. I just write stuff I think will make people mildly amused.
minimoto23
:D
At least he's not kurtosis, whew!
Tony, the technique that I use that is essentially the same except takes much less time is using the brush tool on Lightroom, brusing the entire photo except the subject, and putting the noise reduction to 100. I actually learned this from Chelsea's video about a year ago. Do you think my method is better, or the one in the video that you discussed?
Or you can just reduce the noise by selectively using Nik Dfine (Since the DOF is shallow for this image anyway)
BTW, I remember Tony showing the same technique to create long exposure effect for silky water stuff which I applied many times.. Much appreciated!
This is an excellent technique. Thanks Tony! Helped me a lot. I love your books.
Great tip, as a purchaser of the Canon 6D mk 11 I am sure I will use it
Nice discovery. Astrophotographers have been using thus technique for decades. I never considered using it in bright light.
Not really, us astrophotographers shoot at very low ISO with very long exposure times.
You can’t stack photos of stars as they wouldn’t align. In 20 seconds between shots, you can see how stars moved from one frame to the other.
Besides the low ISO and high exposure provide minimal noise in images, if any at all.
Wow, great tip! Didn't think of using stacking like that before.
I still use this technique Tony. You rock 👌
FF will be always better choise if user is looking for best sharpness and less noise instead of keeping the crop camera. This technique is also best for landscape photography, not wildlife.
which is better for higher signal-noise ratio:
1. stacking
2. hdr
as in taking same photo multiple times vs exposure bracketing
x with red circle: Load Layer can not merge Smart Object Documents. They will be skipped. ? What am I doing wrong, I followed your instructions exactly.
This is astonishingly helpful. Thanks!
Great info ...Is there a method like this that can be done for video to take out noise as well ??
Great video! Is there a way to make an automated command for PS to do the bulk of the steps for you?
Thanks, Tony, for the great tip. Using MFT for night skies results in lots of noise issues. This should help. I'll be sending you my noisy photos for post-processing from now on. :)
Really use tip Tony. Thank you from the UK.
Thank you Just didn't understand the last part - Stack 3 APS -C etc What does it mean?
Just spent two hours loading files and such, converting raws to jpegs, changing settings for smart objects, reopening files(on my horrendously slow and backloaded ultrabook, thanks St. John's University) only for stack mode to be grayed out.
I suppose I'll give up on photography now
Wow this is a great technique tony! Thanks for this
Excellent tutorial and a great idea. Thanks and keep 'em coming!
For the ghosted bird, is it possible to find that offending layer, and mask out what you don't want after the process?
hmmm. makes me even more optimistic for a6000 in lowlight. when people Pose in available light or just sit and talk, it could work
This is a really good idea. Thanks Tony!
where were you all along? Thank you so much!
Super awesome tip. Thanks Tony!
Just a guess before watching: Does it have something to do with Smart Objects and Stack Mode??
THANKS!!! very cool technique. I will give it a try.
I think this method is less effective for extremely high iso noise when there is a lot of read noise. Then one image with a longer exposure or from a larger sensor might be still better.
Truly, by far the BEST solution for getting less noise is to just use a camera with a larger sensor, as he also said here. Meaning, for example, using a full frame sensor camera rather than a crop frame camera. I happen to own both kinds. But I don't have time to waste in front of my computer.
The technique works for noisy FF images too. And not everyone can just buy more expensive equipment to solve their problems.
Hi, an interesting video. Do you shoot in manual to keep same settings for several pictures? Thanks.
You may have outdone yourself on this one! Fantastic tip!!
More than one way to get these results... PSCC--> File - scripts - Statics, will also take all the photos after you auto align and remove the noise. I shot 5-night shots and scripted them together in Statics and had almost no noise at 3200 ISO photo.
excellent technique. thanks tony!
Dear Tony, can you please hide that cable that is drooping behind the TV? So distracting. Great video!
Awesome Mr Northrup! Saved my day. Thanks!
Hi, im having an issue with this technique and the problem is that when i stack the smart object i am getting blur over the entire frame. From what i can see the photos have not been perfectly aligned. Do i need to align the layers manually some how? Thanks for your help
That is an incredible trick! Thank you for the video
Hey. My Stack Mode is grayed out. I have noticed that many people have that issue and there is no solution. Would you know anything? I have used PS 2015 and 2017 and both have the same issue.
Hi Tony and Chelsea, Just a comment to say that this is a brilliant video and a neat idea for a cleaner output if so desired. May I make a suggestion that you guys consider evaluating the current state of play in raw convertors for 2017 and their approaches to noise reduction. I've been playing around with different raw developers lately and have found that sometimes an investment in better noise reduction software can be a cheaper interim upgrade rather than a new body. The DXO Prime noise reduction technology is particularly impressive. I'd love to see an episode compare Capture One, ACR, DXO, PhotoNinja, Iridient, On One, Exposure X etc... across a range of subject matter (portraiture, wildlife, landscape) and go to pixel peeping town for some fun.
thanks for your time guys.
I think my 80D has a similar feature for night time photography?