How to find a refrigerant leak in an air conditioner?
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- Опубликовано: 14 сен 2022
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Diversitech 800-002 Pro-2000 Leak Detector Spray - 1 Quart
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Fieldpiece DR58 - Heated Diode Refrigerant Leak Detector
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@DiversiTechCorp
I like how you gave the customer options and didn't judge him on what he chose. I need to find an independent contractor because these company guys are driven to force service contracts and high end equipment down your throat at every given opportunity. Maybe I'll get lucky and find a guy like you.
Thank you yeah I just want my customer to be happy. I offer my advice and it's always just what I would do if I had their situation.
I agree with you A lot of companies are just driven to make a sale and they don't care about the customer
Hey Dale, I hear ya brother. I work for a company in the Hudson valley in NY. A lot of competition but countless number of times I'm servicing equipment with the competition's sticker on it. I always try to be as transparent as possible. I've learned that once you lose a customers trust, you've lost their business.
@@TaddyDigest I have the same issue, lost about a pound in a year. Have had 3 companies come out only to not pinpoint the leak, guessing it's probably on the back of the evaporator coil like this one. What did you recommend replacing, the coil or the whole handler?
I use Fieldpiece's DR82 Infrared Leak Detector. It's freakin awesome!
I do a 3-hits-it's-a-leak check, but I really don't have to; if it goes off, there's a leak (or I accidentally bumped the tip on something).
Probably the greatest feature about this particular leak detector is the fact that it gives you three signs to let you know that there is a leak: there's the audible sound, the flashing of the tip, and a vibration throughout the leak detector itself.
That's awesome!
So it doesn't matter if you're blind, deaf, or dumb, you will find a leak if there is one!
Good video ! But Here’s some tips from a Guy doing it for 42 Years.
1) if System has at least 1lb of liquid refrigerant in it. ( 410a systems ) Just pull the disconnect. Wait 5 min for system to equalize. Equalized pressures on 410a system at 60 degrees outside with liquid in it will be 170Psig. Higher if its hotter out. See pt chart. 170 is plenty to find a leak with a H10-leak detector or any decent leak detector.
2) Most Leaks are in evaps. 75% of the time. Start there first.
3) Rarely have i needed to pressure test over 150 psi to find a Leak with a Ge H10 leak detector.
I have been doing refrigeration and air conditioning for over 45 years. I am partial to my Inficon select. I spent 30 of those years behind a desk as a service manager. I diagnosed techs problems over the phone. Always look for a leak if the unit is low. To just add gas is not performing your job.
The G.E. H-10 with a cord is without a doubt the best leak detector you can get your hands on.
That rare time is that dang ice machine that passes the pressure test twice and has a fan switch that doesn't leak until it hits 275 psi high side....ugh
You are the best teacher on here! I’ve been thinking about going to school for my H-Vac license. Texas is so hot during the summers! I liked & subscribed!
Thank you so much
“Three dead mice…three dead mice…see how they spin around the blower motor.” 🎶 😂
If I can't find a residential leak with an electronic & sonic leak detector within 30-40 minutes , I like to add fluorescent dye while I add refrigerant. This provides comfort cooling until we can reschedule the leak inspection, and let the dye have time to show up After 35 yrs in residential, if I can't find the leak in a half hour or so on most units, then I know it is going to be a tricky one. The uv dye really helps to pinpoint the problem. Owner operators.. Remember, dye is a tool to help you. You dont need to make a fortune on the dye. Be fair to your customers. You will earn a fair profit during the repair or replacement of the coil.
Excellent advice 👍
I wish I could get y’all’s service in NW Georgia. I was told you can’t fix a leak. You have to have a new unit. I get refrigerant added twice a season or use window units.
I was told leaks could t be fixed period! Dye was added no leak found I was told it must be the unit leaking and that can’t be fixed. The Heil United is 2 years old.
Excellent information in this video! Man I appreciate that for people like me that watches RUclips to learn for homeowner use . Subscribed
Glad to hear the information was helpful thank you so much for watching
How many clowns just fill up your freon and try to sell you a new unit when it all leaks out again?
Yes.
My boss gets upset at my sales bc their so low. I always find the leak and make sure customers get repairs pricing and unit price depending on warranty. He hates it but keeps up withit
Freon? Old timer.
Yeeeees! That's why I'm watching this video because we got new unit last year, and the man done put freon in it twice and it's still messed up. He didn't even tell us we had a leak.
@@AfiOyeTheNurseoh lord that’s not good at all
Great information. Just ordered Webb Coil Cleaner from Lowes.
My man’s got a bow tie on his lip!
The common census for leak checking is to raise the pressure no higher than the highest rating on the low side. Its to avoid damaging the internals of the system.
That makes it hard to sell them those items though dont it?? 🤑 JK LOL
Does that also apply to the heat pump tho , since it is reversible and they both use the high pressure
@@g-lato9791 incorrect. This is a lack of understanding right here. In a heat pump, the high side just alternates between the evaporator and condenser but is still same high side pressure reading to go off and you should not exceed that number.
Excellent work! Thanks for a better understanding on the process. I love learning more and more about my trade.
And that makes for a great contractor, love to hear that. Some ppl are quick to just make money vs actual saving customers a few dollars.
I have a question does refrigerant have to be in the unit to use the nitrogen?
Watching this video tells me why most are saying get a new unit. SMH! Gratitude to you sir for loving and perfect your skills. So appreciated.
AC guy found our 2008 out of warranty system was out of old type refrigerant. Checked outside unit, no leaks. Plans to check for leaks on inside unit, weld leak if doable, install "stop leak", and new type refrigerant. If systems loses refrigerant, he will deduct charges from total price for new inside unit (or replacement coil) . I was told that old type refrigerant is very expensive, new type is about 95% effective in cooling.
CPS leak detector is the best. We had a leak on the R114 plant and it was like chasing a ghost. We put soap on the area and it took about five minutes and the bubbles were so small it looked like shaving cream. That's how small the leak was.
"I will keep you cool if you let me!" ..clever tag line earned my sub.
Thank you brother
I use accu trak ultrasonic. I have used it for a little over 10 years. Works great. It is not a sniffer. Sniffer will go off with anything that burns.
H10Pro by Bacharach for leak detectors. Always check the service port caps with electronic before getting the gauges out of the truck and before touching the caps.
Great job Tadd!
Thank you my friend
Three dead mice would be a great name for rock band.
thanks for the vid Tad !
Great quality content. Keep it coming!
More to come!
Great video. Thank for sharing your knowledge and skills. Im subscribed.
Is there anyone cool and honest like you in San Diego?
not sure my friend
I use the Testo 316-4 for R410a systems and the Testo 316-3 for R22, but the Inficon Tek
Mate is also great option for r-22 systems ( I also have a Inficon tek mate). The Testo 316-4 is probably the most sensitive electronic leak detector I’ve used for r410a.. and I’ve can’t even start to tell you how many electronic leak detectors bought then sold trying to find a good model. Do a Search for NathanHVAC electronic leak detector sensitivity test. He has tested most of the leak detectors I’ve purchased. He has made spreadsheet of the leak detectors and their sensitivity for R22 and R410a refrigerants. I’m trying out Ultrasonic refrigerant leak detector this spring/summer to see if that can help pin point small leak’s faster.
I've used several ultrasonic leak detectors and found that they were useless when trying to find small leaks. See what the return policy is on the tool just in case. A good way to test it is by using a calibration vial.
Nice work!
Hey Tad. What's the 1 to 98 countdown when the wind free units shut off after cooling?
I use the yellow jacket infrared leak detector works great
Hey, Tad. I use the yellow jacket sniffer. But I also use the Superior Accu Track ultrasonic leak detector. You could have heard those mice fart before they died.
Very cool ronnie
I feel for the home owner... but the best thing to do is have some window units ready... 3 units are more than enough to keep you comfortable enough when SHTF with the main AC. they cost $150 each. Then with an older system, especially one approaching 20 years... just get the full install. else with and older system you may find yourself spending more money over the long term vs a new system plus the inconvenience (they always break on a Friday afternoon ) constantly fixing issues as its dies. At least you can get a warranty on installation and equipment that will cover you for a year or more. I also recommend insisting they inject UV dye into the system upon installation or even service. that way its easier to find the leak should one creep up at any point due to installation errors or aging.
Thanks for the tip 👍
Any time!
Great video !
Thanks!
Hi.
What are the resons if frequently happen leakage in condenser coil bends
Great video .
I joined. Like your videos very thorough .
Thank you so much for joining. Here is my email tadfuller1@gmail.com
Great video very Informative And very easy for Me the weekend warrior to follow
Great to hear!
nice job tad, what do youcharge for a leak survey?
also if a mouse works its way into the main blower squirrel cage it will sound like thunder in your duct work. simply remove and clear sailing.
Thank you ted
What does it mean when the copper tubing, the one inside by the unit is warm to the touch, even the copper outside?
Great video buddy
Thank you my friend
Taddy digest have you ever worked on farm equipment ac units I’m a mechanic an have been fighting with one of are equipments ac units I’ve done replaced an fixed where the leak was but it still is leaking down can you help us out
I have a system from the mid 90s that hasnt run in a few years due to a leak and the refrigerant being super expensive. can a system like that be repaired and retrofitted? or would it be a wash in cost and better to just update?
I would probably upgrade
Another great, helpful video! Very nice 👍🏽, very mice 🐁
Thank you very much!
Dye is Best! Hands Down.
tell us about the stop leak additives.
Bow tie.... mustache?!!! 😂 too cute!!! 😊😊
I am just doing some research to learn more. My techs are taking 4 hours to do a leak check after putting dye in the week before :)
You can do it!
I being hearing good things about the inferred leak detector
If it's a large leak in an air conditioning system it's usually on the high side of the system To check the condenser hook up your high side and low tide gauges turn off the power remove the condenser fan motor from the top of the unit Turn the unit power back on checking the high side pressure with condenser fan motor not working the high side pressure will increase to a point where you might be able to locate the week much easier Do not exceed momentarily 400 PSI Turn off the power check With an electronic leak detector You can also use an UltraViolet leak detector After injecting and allowing the fluid to circulate throughout the system One other method is using nitrogen to build up the pressure to see if we could find a slow leak using a Ultra Violet leak detector after injected fluid All these methods MUST only be performed by specially trained air conditioning service technicians with years of experience Absolutely no homeowners should ever attempt these leak detection procedures which could cause permanent bodily injury or possible death Leave it to the professionals
Great video! I feel like people are scheming us and we live in Florida and our AC unit broke 3 times in the last year and we got it new last year. Weird
It's hard to find Honest companies.
You have some good prices 😮
is goodman heat pump GSZB404210A good for 2014 mobile home? in amarillo texas , r19 walls, r25 roof, r 30 floor, singal pan widows, 1216 sqft home. not air tight it has leaks. temps below 20 is like 8 days during heating seanson. i set termostat to 74 f and am using electric furnace 10 kwh for 108 hours a month. my electric rate is 0.097 kwh. the highest bill to have was 250 but that is from whole home usage. the goodman heat pump says it uses 2.9 kwh at 10 f with a COP of 2.08 and a 2.7 kwh with COP of 1.34 at -5 f. the price for the 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump is $4,876. i can get 30% off that price on rebate then it whould be $3,413.235 also, why whould tech go with mortex 5 ton a-coil and 3.5 heat pump. thanks for help.
I use the same detector that you have and maybe it would have found the leak if you had used it.
I'm at 2:20 in the video. Does this hold true for vehicle A/C's? (slow leaks = low pressure side and fast leaks =high pressure side? Thanks for the video!
It really depends on the size of the area that's leaking
At what point do you recommend replacing the condenser and evap coil vs just the evap?
look for oil on the tubing
500 PSI! The most I ever use is 300 psi for R410A and 150 psi for R22.
500psiig...bro it will not break the system?
Good guy
If its a heat pump you have high pressure on the indoor coil when its heating right?
yes
Hi! Thank you for this very informative video. I’m your new subscriber. Can I ask you a question regarding our AC unit? We just bought a house and unfortunately the AC is not cooling the room. The AC Unit is manufactured in 2006 (very old). And it’s definitely leaking refrigerant. The technician that checked the unit suggested to add refrigerant and check for leaks 1 or 2 weeks after. Is that okay? Or should I insist to find the leak first?
I would really appreciate your advise. Thank you on everything that you do!
I would go ahead and let him add refrigerant because you need to know exactly how low it is
Sometimes, it's hard to find the leak unless the refrigerant is significantly low, so it's good to know how low the refrigerant is before you schedule a leak check
My company likes to use fluorescent trace dye for leak searches. And those require a return visit for Leah search after the dye has been circulating for a few weeks. Maybe that’s what the tech was referring to?
Can u do a video on superheat and subcooling, i know everyone tells people to only check subcooling, which if the system is installed properly the txv will hold the superheat to what it is suppose to be, but alot of the time it's not and superheat is usually way low.
Type in the search bar super heat and sub cooling taddy digest. I did a video
I use dish soap water paint brushes and spray bottle, the leak detector gives me a general idea of the leak is.
I was told dish liquids (Dawn, Joy, etc) have lye in them and are corrosive to copper. Use an approved something if you don't want to pay for Big Blue etc..
Also chlorine sterilizer in condensate drains can attack furnace parts, use vinegar. Yet in reach-ins salad dressings and tomato products seem to eat coils. Who is right?
Just curious what your thoughts are on UV dye and leak checking that way
Great info. Its a shame when you have guys add more freon and try to sell it to the customer knowing there is a leak. Smh
I have had hit or miss with Electronics. It often goes off (all brands) if its near water in the pan , My Inficon goes off in light wind, My field piece just goes off because field piece. lol I almost always have better luck with Nitro and visual with soap bubbles.
Great video, my question is if the condenser is grounding out at start up and burning out the fuse do I need to replace the condenser
Not sure I would probably need more info
@@TaddyDigest I replace fuses in the electric box to the condenser turn on the system and it start sparking, I shut it off and I had the wiring check and check the fuses again and one of them was shorted out again. I'm not sure if the shortage is because the condenser needs to be replace or if there's something else I can do before replacing the condenser.
Thank you sir
You're welcome my friend
😮 damn mans a pro
I would not recommend to anyone to go 500psi on a leak test. I, like Oc have been doing it a long time. Never pressure tested that high, even on the commercial side of things. Can get dangerous. Usually there are operating max pressures listed, I would not exceed those. There is a leak detector that works via sound. I had one of those as well, no matter how small the leak, it would sound like a hurricane in your ears. Nice vid.
500+ psi is where a 410a system is operating during the summer.
@@MrDeviousdom where? If so, clean the coil. Maybe in AZ. Not in FL.
@@MetalDetectingwithCZkidd In hot areas. I don't understand the point of your comment.
Agreed! I have never heard of anyone EVER going to 500 psi!
@@epeterson711 well, I'm in AZ and it does all the time on rooftop units.
What about the charred wires ?
H10 with the long probe
When you have a fast leak it can be anywhere
My unit froze up the lines are copper so I turned the unit off so it can thaw from the big ice block so would that problem be from having a leak in the system? Thanks in advance
Could be from leaking refrigerant.
Could be from a dirty filter.
Could be from low air flow.
Just use a process of elimination to figure out.
How much do you charge for a new evap coil? Here in California it's about $4,500 to replace an evap coil. If it's under warranty, it's about $2,000. Some hvac companies don't even check to see if it's under warranty. I've done two evap coils under warranty this year as a second opinion. The first two companies diagnosed bad evap coils and never checked to see if they were under warranty and quoted the customer about $4,500.
wow that is bad
That is way over priced
4500$!! That's crazy
I’ve been using the same leak detector. Had to replace the battery and sensor. Other than that, it’s been a great detector! I’ve also use a H10. A little expensive but what isnt these days?!
Most refrigerant leak detectors are incredibly sensitive. If you add any refrigerant you should always do a leak search. A basic leak search only takes 10-15 minutes to make sure you don’t have a good size leak. You don’t have to reclaim the gas and add nitrogen, the refrigerant is the gas you are looking for, and soap bubbles will also blow bubbles regardless if there is nitrogen, as long as there is pressure, don’t complicate it. You can’t give the customer the choice you are supposed to make as a trained technician when it’s such a simple move and avoids callbacks
Dont forget to pull the disconnect, ive sone that a couple times, best way to learn is to get zaped i guess or just pay attention haaha.
Mice?? Yuck!! Great job on this system by you!!
I'm having this same exact problem with my ac. Guy came out couple years ago and replaced the fan thing on the inside unit and said that would fix our problem. The system will not hold refrigerant. The line constantly freezes up. Definitely don't have $$ for a brand new system. Just need an honest trustworthy HVAC person to look at it and find the leak and tell me if it can be fixed. I'm in Virginia about 50 miles south of DC and 50 miles north of Richmond if you know of anyone in the area you can recommend.
You could try some leak Sealant, and u v dye define the leak.
Check out my video on leak sealant
If Steven crowder went into HVAC
Homeowner must have picked the platinum package, all that he took loose
the 3 blind mice met their doom 😂
Can an overcharging the system cause the TXV to get stuck closed?
Overcharging will definitely to stay closed
@@TaddyDigest Thanks for that, the tech told me that the TXV is bad and he need to install a new coil, the system is 3-year-old. I took an image of his 4 port manifold + Micron gauge where it showed the following, on the left side, a pressure of 96.3 Psig below it is 39.1 SH, and below it is 29.5 VSAT. On the right side it shows pressure of 278.8 Psig, 16.8 SC, and below it 90.7 LSAT. I would very much appreciate your thoughts on this
Yeah it looks Like there is too much liquid in The condenser And not Enough Liquid In the evaporator so definitely could be the filter dryer for the t x v
Good price
Tad is solid
Put your finger in there and see if theres some oil in there lmao classic 😅
Technician said had freon leak! On evaporator! $. Ouch! He put leak seal! Looked like a syringe. What are you thought on leak seal. After a month, failed to cool again!
Find the leak and fix it
You only put the max on what the system tells you #tag . Especially if you putting nitro on the low side if low side says max250psi you put 250psi
there is no way to only put nitrogen in the low side unless you would disconnect the coil.
But yeah, the coil clearly states design pressure and R22 is very low pressure. I thought last one I saw was 150 on the R22 coil and 450 on 410a coil.
I joined
Can I use shampoo as well? Thanks for sharing.
I'm not sure
With the industry going through a major shift to A2L refrigerants starting in 2025, does it make sense to install a current system based on R-410A or wait until next year for A2L systems?
If you don't have to replace your system, now I would wait
@@TaddyDigest I did some research and installers are saying that the new systems might have a price hike of around 30% due to new sensors addressing flammability, tighter standards, etc. Is this true or attempts to sell the remaining inventory?
I will figure it out and get back to you
just got a quote for r22 refrigerant at 3 lbs it was over $900 that sounds pretty steep
Dang that is so expensive
glad i held off especially when theirs apparently a severe leak
If you look around online you can buy 5lb cans of R-22 for $220. Of course if you have a severe leak don't bother on such an old system and get it upgraded.
Can I put pressure in my condenser
What do you mean
Hay Taddy, Got an unrelated Question, sorry to post on your video. I went to a Goodman PKG HP the other day with Compressor not starting. I could hear it trying like a dead CAP. Checked the CAP (70x5 duel) it was 4.7 on fan and 311 on Herm!! 311/5 wow. Cap was 1.5 yrs old. I replaced it and system began to run. Was pulling 15.5 amps at start then 10 minutes in I noticed it had risen to 18 then ten minutes latter it was near 20. The RLA is 26. I traced the wires and found nothing mis wired to the cap so I called it the Compressor and recommended the Comp. I did not find any strange readings when I did OHM the comp tho before I restarted with the new CAP. Have you seen this before? It is a new one on me.
Is it a 2 stage compressor was it going into high stage? And that's why it pulled more amps
Or is it just single speed
@@TaddyDigest Single speed
The capacitor can read higher but if you look at your meter its nano farads so its actually lower.
ruclips.net/video/cZUpCEbIRow/видео.htmlsi=v8283FCc_UPzLQoh
I have that noise coming out of my central vent when the AC is off. Does anyone know what's wrong with my AC? It works fine. Just that sound is lingering after it's off.
I’m not professional but just a guess it maybe the high and low side pressures equalizing which would be a normal thing.
Guys here tried to charge me over $1500 just to put $75 leak sealant in, so I got my 608 very and work on my system myself.
I have used multiple bacharach h10s and various other refrigerant leak detectors. I have NEVER found a leak with any of them. I always find them with bubbles, sound, and oil spots. What leak detector do you use?
I have never found a leak with bubbles only leak detectors
That makes absolutely no sense as the h10 picks up leaks that are so small they don't even create bubbles. You might want to revisit your technique and or have the equipment checked.
The H10 includes a calibration vial of R11. Make sure it's calibrated properly.
I've found some leaks with the NAVAC.
@ Christian lara
Ive been doing Leak detection with a Ge H-10G Leak detector for 42 Years & it WILL Get you Right to a leak EVERYTIME.
THE Problem is With YOUR Leak detector or YOUR Technique Period !
Basics of Leak detection with a Ge/Bacarach H10G Leak detector.
1) Plug detector in.
2) turn on.
3) set switch to Medium. Turn dial left until no clicks are heard during warm up.
4) Let detector warm up for 5 Minutes on the clock. Then adjust dial till clicks are heard every 1 second.
5) bring probe tip across top of Sample bottle & hold for 1 second. Leak detector should scream loudly. If not.
Set Switch to SMALL. Adjust dial to clicks ever 1 second. Try again. Wave probe tip over sample bottle / reference leak detector test bottle included in every ge H10 leak detector.
It should scream loudly & Red led should be flashing madly. IF Not Leak detector NEEDS Adjusted / Sent in for Service.
If Leak detector works / Tests out good Here is Basic technique of Leak detection -
1) System Must Have 25 Psi of Refrigerant in it Min. Then -
2) Add 150 psi of Dry Nitrogen to System being checked.
3) Test that both Sides of the System have a Min Pressure of 100 -150 Psig in the System.
4) Allways check that Leak detector works before starting leak detection procedure with test vial or at refrigerant tank briefly. Once detector is known functional then & only then can leak detection start.
5) Start with Ge H10 Leak detector in Medium position , set click rate of 1 click per second & Bring leak detector Near Evaporator or Condenser.
To check for leaks.
6) the H10 is designed to be moved across an area at a Rate of 1” per second.
7) DO NOT LET IT SUCK UP WATER / Keep it away from water. It is a Pump that WILL SUCK up water and it will instantly Junk out the Leak detector.
8) if you get the probe tip wet - Change the white probe tip filter with the filters provided.
9) Remove plastic probe tip & dry out with paper towel or rag.
10) Replace Red Floating ball 🏀 that is in Probe Plastic tip. ( it shows you that Pump is sucking air )
11) install New dry white Filter into probe tip.
12) install Rubber tip on probe & start again.
13) Warm up Detector, set to medium, Keep probe tip moving at a rate of 1” per second & try to keep it away from water & soap bubbles. Keep approx 1-2” away from wet surfaces.
This should get u started.
👍
You should be able to wet your bare hand and feel for the leak better
Yea, spray some soap bubbles on it. You can feel bubbles with your fingers really easily & it makes bubbles when you pass over the leak with your fingers.
How would you purge the nitrogen later?
not sure
@@TaddyDigest What? Didn't you complete the repair? I presume you had to evacuate the entire system, then refill.