Thanks for this, my Dell P992 diverged a bit from some of the steps in Windas, but the video was really, really helpful for getting me on the right path.
Thanks for making a full video of this. It's difficult to find easy to follow resources for this so this is incredibly useful for noobs such as myself. What color meter are you using?
I just got a Sun GDM from the recycling center and after repairing visual defects with it, I need to adjust the colors. The display is just way too dim unless I use it late at night, especially compared to my Sharp X Flat. This guide will be helpful.
Amazing guide! Finally got my monitor looking so good. I tried it on my own and completely fucked up my contrast and brightness sliders even though it looked good at first. Can't believe I never bothered reading what pattern windas wanted me to load lol. Strangely I am using the IBM P275 and I have less options in my steps than your P260.
Hello, thank you very much for your video. I'm new to the world of CRT monitors and I have a FW900. I want to learn how to calibrate it correctly. My monitor suffers from G2 drift, and it seems to me that the geometry and convergence get out of balance with the passing of the days. Is it needing a recap? I am very curious to see how is the procedure to fix the geometry using Windas, I would love to see your video! Thanks again for that material, I'll be following it.
Hello yes. First of all, ensure you have a proper saved copy of inital settings. Ensure you have multiple copies of these initial settings. And in multiple places. Yes G2 drift can be fixed with windas, as well as convergence issues. If you adjust convergence, feel free to go ahead and skip directly to "dynamic convergence". Unfortunately no video on this subject of dynamic convergence. Maybe someday. I only did it once. I recommend contacting the discord and having someone experienced walking you through it. Recapping -- not recommended until needed. Recapping is good, but a mistake leads to a monitor that doesnt work until the mistake is fixed. I do not recommend you attempt it as a first project. This can cause unnecessary problems. Recapping is always very nice to have though. And if you ever want to offload that monitor.. say in 1.. 2.. or 10 years :wink: dont hesitate to reach out.
Excelent video! I wonder if this procedure affects the gamma on the monitor. For instance i have an NEC monitor which i calibrated with the RGB contrast/brightness controls of the OSD with a colormunki and istudio, and i love the results. I was able to reproduce the same calibration on a Dell P1130 but for some reason, the gamma is higher. I have a little less detail on darker areas. I have the NEC 2111SB with a calibrated 6500k WP and has a 2.25 gamma providing brighter/darker areas which translates in slightly more detail compared to the Dell P1130 with a gamma of 2.4/2.45. In any of these monitors, i´m unable to change the gamma. They are both very similar once calibrated to 6500k and 90cd/m2. My question is, am i able to decrease the gamma on the Dell with WinDAS?
@@citylion1389 If that needs to be done to change gamma, it will be a software calibration which involves changing like you said, the graphics card lut. I was trying to go on the monitor hardware level. I find interesting the gamma deviation on both monitors
Do i really have to adjust the color spectrum on my monitor if its just a brightness issue? I got a E540 Sony Monitor and the brightness is so goddamn bright.
I just completed this on my CPD-E540, and now automatic contrast is enabled. I only waited maybe a minute or two when it asked to wait for luminace to stabalize. Is there any way to outright disable automatic contrast that you know of?
i got windas working on windows10: if you google "WinDAS Installation & Guide" a post on crtdatabase shows how to install windas, however the section: "ActiveX \ MSFLXGRD.OCX Installation" won't work on win10, over on reddit the post "WINDAS on Windows 10 working?" by OptimusShill the comment by Roboplodicus is what i followed and windas runs without issue on win10 for me. However following this video around 34:20 in those steps would cause my brightness to go too high and cause retrace lines which messes up the colorimeter readings, I'm using a colormunki on a Compaq P900 (rebadged Sony CPD-G400) due to my CRT having a clear overbrightness issue, i need brightness at like 5 or 10 or else everything gets washed out, I also have a P1130 with a similar issue. another comment by adamplechaty mentioned a pdf guide but i haven't found it yet, so im kinda stuck until i figure out how combat the overbright issue
Regarding G2 adjustment - there is a PDF guide on the net which covers WinDAS and it weirdly says you are supposed to LOWER your G2 as opposed to what you do which is bumping it up. So that is a bit confusing to a beginner user like me. I prefer your guide but wanted to check first.
If EPROM pins are exposed, or if there is a side door to eprom pins, no need to take chassis off. But I am not certain if that model has it exposed on the side. I think it does.
I'm using a new ColorMunki on a F99 chassis CompaqP900 (rebadged Sony CPD-G400) at 42:02 no matter what i set my blue is at 0%? finished calibration leads to heavily crushed black levels, measured grayscale and primary readings are way off?
@@citylion1389 I'm certain I've used the correct patterns, I messaged you on discord, and posted on the "WinDAS White Point Balance guide for Sony Trinitron CRTs" hardfourm with more details including a link showing my full calibration process
@@citylion1389 update: managed to get it fixed! via spacediver on hardfourm recommending "targeting the D65 chromaticity (chromaticity: x = 0.313, y = 0.329)" so during the 5000k process ignoring windas x and y and targeting that x and y instead, and had my color space to HDTV Rec709 instead of sRGB I'm gonna try another calibration round tonight for sRGB just to be certain but currently have dE of 0.4 to 0.7! with no black crush when gamma is around 2.0 hopefully targeting sRGB would mean i don't need to change gamma from the default 1.0 but ill update here and on hardfourm with results
great tutorial I'll follow it after I solve a little issue. My CPD-G410 has crazy front panel controls, press up it goes right or up, press right does nothing, press left does nothing, enter works after pressing it many times, worst is menu button is also back so I press it and sometimes it acts as enter. The cherry on top is the stick is missing so I have to insert a pen to move the buttons... it's a nightmare trying to adjust anything. Any idea? I'm guessing on a micro controller in bad shape responsible for the menu and changing all front controls micro switches, but I'm not sure if that would be enough for crazy controls
Is there a way to only adjust G2 I dont have a colorometer so doing the entire white adjustment without touching the other values destroys the image, and I really only need to adjust G2. Any help would be deeply appreciated from anyone.
@@citylion1389 thank you so much, is there any guidance as to what the G2 is labeled as? and would setting it to say 61 be equivalent to setting it to 61 on windas? If you need more info, my monitor is a sony g400 from 2001. i have the dat file open in a hex editor but it may as well be a different language, I have no clue which of these values correlates to g2, so assistance would be massively helpful
Hello, if your chosen resolution and refresh rate are within the specs, the monitor can always handle it. Simply select the resolution and refresh rate you want (e.g. in nvidia control panel). you can use a calculator to double check that your resolution and refresh rate (hz) are within your horizontial refresh rate max spec (khz) www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html calculator error +-3khz
@@citylion1389 its not within the specs of the monitor itself. the chassis itself has been used for higher end sony tubes that had higher khz ratings, with the only thing being changed is a few caps
@@arutezza FW900 with a replaced bvm tube? There are ways to force / go around the limit of the many monitors, hardware modifications, i have never done it
No its not important. The windas modifications are most important, the digital ones like the ICC profiles are in my opinion far less important. That is my opinion.
@@citylion1389 it's just that now when i plug things in, the blacks look crushed without gamma adjustment. is there anything i can do to fix this other than restoring the initial settings?
Not really sure where else to post this, but I was wondering if anyone would be able to offer suggestions. I recently got my hands on a Dell P1130 and can't for the life of me get WinDAS to properly detect it. I've tested multiple USB to TTL adapters (making sure RXD and TXD were crossed) and have attempted running the program on numerous configs (my main Windows 11 PC, an XP VM, as well as both 98 SE and XP SP3 installs on my ThinkPad T41). No matter what I do, I always get an error message saying "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition.". Any ideas?
@@citylion1389I’ve made sure to select the correct COM port and model number. I’ve also set SG to manual. I did try to change the model to see if anything different happens, though. Interestingly, an incorrect model error popped up (can’t remember the exact wording, but it was right before the usual “can’t connect the monitor” message appears), so it seems like WinDAS somewhat recognizes the monitor. I’m quite stumped. The silver lining is that my P1130’s display isn’t too bad as it is for its age (mine was manufactured around late 2003). I just figured I’d try my hand at calibrating it to further improve things.
@@CartmanKusanagi luckily there is also an hours counter for that unit. You can see exactly how many hours of screentime. If youd like to message me on discord for further help, it is [TCS] citylion#3257
@@citylion1389ood news! At the suggestion of a redditor, I bought an adapter with the CP2102 chipset; it seems like that is doing the trick so far! (That, and/or the other adapters I tried aren’t genuine. I’m not 100% sure.) Either way, I was able to save a .dat file without any problems. I can’t wait to actually calibrate this thing!
Good question, yes. You can do that in one of the very very early steps for the color calibration. Remember to save initial data Remember to “finalize” when done Thanks
Thanks for this, my Dell P992 diverged a bit from some of the steps in Windas, but the video was really, really helpful for getting me on the right path.
Huge respect for step by step calibration tutorial, extremely helpful i very much appreciate it.
Great video! Did you link the VM Instance that you mentioned though? I can't seem to find it
Thanks for making a full video of this. It's difficult to find easy to follow resources for this so this is incredibly useful for noobs such as myself. What color meter are you using?
Hi, thanks for reaching out. yes, hope it helps! I used the X-RITE Colormunki which I got used. Other colorimeters could also be considered
Thanks very much for this! It really helped me fix my Dell P1110 monitor
I just got a Sun GDM from the recycling center and after repairing visual defects with it, I need to adjust the colors. The display is just way too dim unless I use it late at night, especially compared to my Sharp X Flat. This guide will be helpful.
Amazing guide! Finally got my monitor looking so good. I tried it on my own and completely fucked up my contrast and brightness sliders even though it looked good at first. Can't believe I never bothered reading what pattern windas wanted me to load lol. Strangely I am using the IBM P275 and I have less options in my steps than your P260.
Ohhh how relatable !
I did this a few times when learning.
Do you still plan on doing a walkthrough for geometry? I have a Dell P991 that I want to touch up the geometry on.
Hello, thank you very much for your video. I'm new to the world of CRT monitors and I have a FW900. I want to learn how to calibrate it correctly. My monitor suffers from G2 drift, and it seems to me that the geometry and convergence get out of balance with the passing of the days. Is it needing a recap? I am very curious to see how is the procedure to fix the geometry using Windas, I would love to see your video! Thanks again for that material, I'll be following it.
Hello yes. First of all, ensure you have a proper saved copy of inital settings. Ensure you have multiple copies of these initial settings. And in multiple places.
Yes G2 drift can be fixed with windas, as well as convergence issues. If you adjust convergence, feel free to go ahead and skip directly to "dynamic convergence".
Unfortunately no video on this subject of dynamic convergence. Maybe someday. I only did it once. I recommend contacting the discord and having someone experienced walking you through it.
Recapping -- not recommended until needed.
Recapping is good, but a mistake leads to a monitor that doesnt work until the mistake is fixed. I do not recommend you attempt it as a first project. This can cause unnecessary problems. Recapping is always very nice to have though.
And if you ever want to offload that monitor.. say in 1.. 2.. or 10 years :wink: dont hesitate to reach out.
@@citylion1389 Thank you very much for your response. It has been very helpful!
Excelent video! I wonder if this procedure affects the gamma on the monitor. For instance i have an NEC monitor which i calibrated with the RGB contrast/brightness controls of the OSD with a colormunki and istudio, and i love the results. I was able to reproduce the same calibration on a Dell P1130 but for some reason, the gamma is higher. I have a little less detail on darker areas. I have the NEC 2111SB with a calibrated 6500k WP and has a 2.25 gamma providing brighter/darker areas which translates in slightly more detail compared to the Dell P1130 with a gamma of 2.4/2.45. In any of these monitors, i´m unable to change the gamma. They are both very similar once calibrated to 6500k and 90cd/m2. My question is, am i able to decrease the gamma on the Dell with WinDAS?
Try to change brightness and contrast for gamma adjustment. Target 2.2. Most use lut tables to correct gamma. No windas gamma procedure, only wpb
@@citylion1389 If that needs to be done to change gamma, it will be a software calibration which involves changing like you said, the graphics card lut. I was trying to go on the monitor hardware level. I find interesting the gamma deviation on both monitors
Do i really have to adjust the color spectrum on my monitor if its just a brightness issue? I got a E540 Sony Monitor and the brightness is so goddamn bright.
I just completed this on my CPD-E540, and now automatic contrast is enabled. I only waited maybe a minute or two when it asked to wait for luminace to stabalize. Is there any way to outright disable automatic contrast that you know of?
Can you send the link of your VM instance you mentionned? I'm trying to fix a Dell P1110 which is too bright and has a pinkish teint.
i got windas working on windows10: if you google "WinDAS Installation & Guide" a post on crtdatabase shows how to install windas, however the section: "ActiveX \ MSFLXGRD.OCX Installation" won't work on win10, over on reddit the post "WINDAS on Windows 10 working?" by OptimusShill the comment by Roboplodicus is what i followed and windas runs without issue on win10 for me.
However following this video around 34:20 in those steps would cause my brightness to go too high and cause retrace lines which messes up the colorimeter readings, I'm using a colormunki on a Compaq P900 (rebadged Sony CPD-G400) due to my CRT having a clear overbrightness issue, i need brightness at like 5 or 10 or else everything gets washed out, I also have a P1130 with a similar issue.
another comment by adamplechaty mentioned a pdf guide but i haven't found it yet, so im kinda stuck until i figure out how combat the overbright issue
Regarding G2 adjustment - there is a PDF guide on the net which covers WinDAS and it weirdly says you are supposed to LOWER your G2 as opposed to what you do which is bumping it up. So that is a bit confusing to a beginner user like me. I prefer your guide but wanted to check first.
whats the pdf guide called?
Do i really have to take apart my F520 or is it able to be done with just adapter through usb?
If EPROM pins are exposed, or if there is a side door to eprom pins, no need to take chassis off. But I am not certain if that model has it exposed on the side. I think it does.
I'm using a new ColorMunki on a F99 chassis CompaqP900 (rebadged Sony CPD-G400) at 42:02 no matter what i set my blue is at 0%? finished calibration leads to heavily crushed black levels, measured grayscale and primary readings are way off?
@@OriginalityDaniel hi, possibly you did not change the hcfr pattern during one of the steps? Did you use the white pattern for the whole calibration?
@@citylion1389 I'm certain I've used the correct patterns, I messaged you on discord, and posted on the "WinDAS White Point Balance guide for Sony Trinitron CRTs" hardfourm with more details including a link showing my full calibration process
@@citylion1389 update: managed to get it fixed! via spacediver on hardfourm recommending "targeting the D65 chromaticity (chromaticity: x = 0.313, y = 0.329)" so during the 5000k process ignoring windas x and y and targeting that x and y instead, and had my color space to HDTV Rec709 instead of sRGB I'm gonna try another calibration round tonight for sRGB just to be certain but currently have dE of 0.4 to 0.7! with no black crush when gamma is around 2.0 hopefully targeting sRGB would mean i don't need to change gamma from the default 1.0 but ill update here and on hardfourm with results
great tutorial I'll follow it after I solve a little issue. My CPD-G410 has crazy front panel controls, press up it goes right or up, press right does nothing, press left does nothing, enter works after pressing it many times, worst is menu button is also back so I press it and sometimes it acts as enter. The cherry on top is the stick is missing so I have to insert a pen to move the buttons... it's a nightmare trying to adjust anything. Any idea? I'm guessing on a micro controller in bad shape responsible for the menu and changing all front controls micro switches, but I'm not sure if that would be enough for crazy controls
Add me on discord for any questions thanks. Save initial data first
What colorimeter did you use?
It is an X Rite i Display Studio, similar to colormunki
Is there a way to only adjust G2 I dont have a colorometer so doing the entire white adjustment without touching the other values destroys the image, and I really only need to adjust G2. Any help would be deeply appreciated from anyone.
@@bungleprosy yes rip the data, use a hex editor to change it properly then load it. Must be very careful
@@citylion1389 thank you so much, is there any guidance as to what the G2 is labeled as? and would setting it to say 61 be equivalent to setting it to 61 on windas? If you need more info, my monitor is a sony g400 from 2001. i have the dat file open in a hex editor but it may as well be a different language, I have no clue which of these values correlates to g2, so assistance would be massively helpful
@@bungleprosy there is information on it somewhere, you should join the crt discord. I believe there are some text labels in the file
Is there a way to increase your maximum horizontal scan and refresh rate? Ive got a chassis that has a higher KHZ version so i know it can take it
Hello, if your chosen resolution and refresh rate are within the specs, the monitor can always handle it. Simply select the resolution and refresh rate you want (e.g. in nvidia control panel). you can use a calculator to double check that your resolution and refresh rate (hz) are within your horizontial refresh rate max spec (khz) www.hometheaterengineering.com/bandwidthcalculator.html
calculator error +-3khz
@@citylion1389 its not within the specs of the monitor itself. the chassis itself has been used for higher end sony tubes that had higher khz ratings, with the only thing being changed is a few caps
@@arutezza FW900 with a replaced bvm tube?
There are ways to force / go around the limit of the many monitors, hardware modifications, i have never done it
Is it true that you have to bump up the gamma after doing this? I did this with my monitor earlier last year and it's been giving me a headache...
No its not important. The windas modifications are most important, the digital ones like the ICC profiles are in my opinion far less important. That is my opinion.
@@citylion1389 it's just that now when i plug things in, the blacks look crushed without gamma adjustment. is there anything i can do to fix this other than restoring the initial settings?
Hey city, how's Alaska
GREAT
Im looking for a Backup eeprom Folder, more specifically I am looking for N3 and N2h chassis. Have anyone ? Nice Video.
What model might that be? I may have one
Your monitors format makes it really hard to see what you're doing.
Bro just use Windows's built in magnifier to your own preference.
Nice guide a little long winded..
Not really sure where else to post this, but I was wondering if anyone would be able to offer suggestions.
I recently got my hands on a Dell P1130 and can't for the life of me get WinDAS to properly detect it. I've tested multiple USB to TTL adapters (making sure RXD and TXD were crossed) and have attempted running the program on numerous configs (my main Windows 11 PC, an XP VM, as well as both 98 SE and XP SP3 installs on my ThinkPad T41). No matter what I do, I always get an error message saying "Can't connect the monitor! Check Bus line and condition.".
Any ideas?
Did you do the model selection?
Have you checked the config section in Windas, that it is using the correct COM port?
I also have a p1130, good unit
@@citylion1389I’ve made sure to select the correct COM port and model number. I’ve also set SG to manual.
I did try to change the model to see if anything different happens, though. Interestingly, an incorrect model error popped up (can’t remember the exact wording, but it was right before the usual “can’t connect the monitor” message appears), so it seems like WinDAS somewhat recognizes the monitor. I’m quite stumped.
The silver lining is that my P1130’s display isn’t too bad as it is for its age (mine was manufactured around late 2003). I just figured I’d try my hand at calibrating it to further improve things.
@@CartmanKusanagi luckily there is also an hours counter for that unit. You can see exactly how many hours of screentime.
If youd like to message me on discord for further help, it is [TCS] citylion#3257
@@citylion1389ood news! At the suggestion of a redditor, I bought an adapter with the CP2102 chipset; it seems like that is doing the trick so far! (That, and/or the other adapters I tried aren’t genuine. I’m not 100% sure.)
Either way, I was able to save a .dat file without any problems. I can’t wait to actually calibrate this thing!
Can you change max width with windas also ?
Good question, yes. You can do that in one of the very very early steps for the color calibration.
Remember to save initial data
Remember to “finalize” when done
Thanks
@@citylion1389 Thank you !!!
Big sus how did it go with your $50 P1130 bro? Very well I assume
Also bro give that WinXP shit
:)
If I add you on discord can you troubleshoot with me?
Sure my discord handle is:
citylion