Real time, no editing, clear instructions on product and process is a winning combination. I have the fear of ruining my models with my novice abilities. Those fears are gone. Thanks!!
Another great show! The demonstration of the paved roads is neat! I love the way Ken teaches us! Step by step so we can take it all in! Thanks..Ken! I love the segment with..George B. on how to add extra weight to your rail cars! Thanks "Goalie George" What a neat idea! I always love the runbys! This is "The Best Hobby In The World" Best Viewers, Best People, Best Commentators, & Best Advertisers In The Hobby! Till Next Time! MoPac Jack Be Safe! Have Fun! Back To The Train Cave!
This is a good idea. I tried this with a little change. I took some wire and made a handle. then put it in the side of the fuel tank. I then made up some plaster and poured it in the tank so went the plaster harden. I popped it out and formed Plasticine clay around the cast to make a mold. I then removed the plaster cast and melted the low temp into the mold to make two castings to add to the tank. and it worked. Just a thought.
Ken, I always love watching you build. George's section on adding weight was also really neat. Something I want to do myself. I loved the ending run by. Haven't seen the bluff in a long time. That was a nice module.
Hey Ken...real good road technique!!!! Also loved the elbow air vent on the T-Shirt. 😅 George did a good job explaining the weights on the cars. Once again you nailed it....thanks.
Nice how to Ken!!!! Being a train freak and also a full time Trucker I would go wider on the road for the unload track so the "HO scale Truckers" will have swing room to make the turn onto that road without worries of dropping their tandems in the ditch if their running 53 foot trailers!!!! 👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Just a word about safety...some of the low temp alloys can give off nasty fumes. (Cerrobend might have cadmium, which is not too kind to your body). Good ventilation is a must. Also, consider using a double boiler technique (ladle in a pot of boiling water) instead of the soldering iron. This should keep you at lower temps than your soldering iron, which means minimal fumes.
Yes, this is very dangerous stuff. Ken, I recommend that you remake this video with a warning message on it. You don't want to be hit with a liability suit.
The road, loading area, and surrounding scenery work was very informative. I'm now planning to use those techniques in a couple of places. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge with us !
I don't have tonnes of experience but when I first started watching what you were doing to the track... gotta admit, a bit horrifying, lol. But by the end of the video, I'm very impressed! I watch a lot of tutorials, but have never come across one like this. And this is what you actually see in the 1:1 world. I'm going to add "buried track" (for lack of a better term?) on a siding on my layout. Adds a lot to the realism of the layout. Thanks for putting this on. Subscribed and looking forward to your other videos.
Section on weighting cars was interesting. Cerrabend is used to bend tubing with kinking tubes. Placed inside tubes as a liquid and heated to remove. Keep up the good work!
The color the India ink makes the road and unloading surface is real close to old asphalt. The unloading area could use some additional weathering. Such a large area of uniformly defect free asphalt is not found unless newly resurfaced in the real world. It needs cracks especially around edges, simulated tire ruts, and oil leak stains where the trucks would sit to be loaded and unloaded. Maybe tire marks from the fork truck. Adding these things would make it better match the appearance of the siding being burried and unmantained. As a truck driver I have never seen a uniform, pristine loading/unloading area. Heavy trucks with heavy loads do damage, weather does damage. And all of what I mentioned can be achieved with a little paint, a sharpie, a steady hand, and time.
love this segment ken on the paving part,george has some good tips on adding weight to locomotives and freight cars which comes at a good time as I,m working on a log car conversion using an older walthers GSC flatcar kit and I'm not using the steel weight that came with the kit because I cut the deck up so I came across some deluxe materials liquid gravity that I'll trying out..
Ken great video, so that Jar OF DAP IS made with or has VINYL Iinit? Great stuff for roads,Thanks And going bsck yo your line painting I n September 2026, where did you buy that masking tape for the white and yellowlines? Do you have a link for that tape?. Thanks again
I need advise more on sidewalks... I wish I had money and time like most people. I used cheap stuff as for me does work great as I know how to. But if I had again time and money to spend as I'm a hard worker. I can do a great layout.. I only have a 13 ft x 15 ft . But I have a middle board that's 12 ft of city and road . Lights, traffic... More then track but I might change or go through my dinning room lol ...., Joe
Great video. I am wondering at the 23:55 minute mark did the "concrete" shrink or is it not as opaque as it seems to look like, as the ties are still visible?
I've always wondered about a recommended weight for model locomotives. The NMRA has set standards for freight cars and I just wonder if there is a way to set up weight standards for locomotives. There could be a chart of minimum weight to get the locomotive to pull a certain number of cars increasing the weight in steps up to a maximum weight of what a certain type of single locomotive should be for it to pull the same amount of cars as the prototype model pulls. Then there could be charts showing the same information with 2 locomotives of the same type and so on and then charts showing mixed consists of locomotives. That's a lot of work for someone at the NMRA standards department to do if they're looking for something to do. All locomotives from the first steam locomotives through electrics and diesel electrics up to the newest locomotives now. With all the different types of locomotives having different weights and lengths and wow at the calculations that would need to be done. 🤯 I don't think it would work to do it by length of the locomotive like they do with the weight standards for freight cars because the locomotives are given more tractive effort by weighing more. So I don't think one type locomotive that weighs less than another but is the same length could pull the same amount of cars so thats why I say I don't think it would work by length like freight cars. Anyone have any opinions on this on how it could be done? 👍
It came out great, a little messy. 0verall awesome video very informational. Wouldn't woodlands smooth-it road system be more ideal than actual concrete mortar?
Sorry David - I thought you were talking about the tool being used at approx 3:05. But I think you were actually referring to the one at 21:30 or so. That is an interesting tool (and the surform is in the background ;) ). And now your blacksmith comment makes way more sense...
With all due respect, George, using those alloys is not new to model railroading. You will find articles and references (maybe even ads) in Model Railroader back in the '50s or 60's.
Real time, no editing, clear instructions on product and process is a winning combination. I have the fear of ruining my models with my novice abilities. Those fears are gone. Thanks!!
Another great show! The demonstration of the paved roads is neat! I love the way Ken teaches us! Step by step so we can take it all in! Thanks..Ken! I love the segment with..George B. on how to add extra weight to your rail cars! Thanks "Goalie George" What a neat idea! I always love the runbys! This is "The Best Hobby In The World" Best Viewers, Best People, Best Commentators, & Best Advertisers In The Hobby! Till Next Time! MoPac Jack Be Safe! Have Fun! Back To The Train Cave!
Ken and friends, You guys give me confidence to try to do things outside of my comfort zone, thank you for the time effort you put into these videos
Very good how to on roads. Takes a lot of the mystic of scenery techniques for beginners. George came across very well. Keep 'em coming!
That paved area come out a lot better than I thought it wood. Looks great. 👍
Love the road making how -to, thanks for another great show.
This is a good idea. I tried this with a little change. I took some wire and made a handle. then put it in the side of the fuel tank. I then made up some plaster and poured it in the tank so went the plaster harden. I popped it out and formed Plasticine clay around the cast to make a mold. I then removed the plaster cast and melted the low temp into the mold to make two castings to add to the tank. and it worked. Just a thought.
Ken, I always love watching you build. George's section on adding weight was also really neat. Something I want to do myself. I loved the ending run by. Haven't seen the bluff in a long time. That was a nice module.
That paved area is awesome, great job Ken..
Hey Ken...real good road technique!!!! Also loved the elbow air vent on the T-Shirt. 😅
George did a good job explaining the weights on the cars.
Once again you nailed it....thanks.
Thank you for showing the actual process instead of the neat and pretty finished results. That helps more than you know. 👍
This flush track idea is cool. I've seen it in real life and thought I was the only one because nobody was modeling it.
Nice update with loads of detail.
Thanks Ken. Stunning results. The weighting of cars segment also very interesting, thank you to George for letting us know.
Nice how to Ken!!!! Being a train
freak and also a full time Trucker
I would go wider on the road for
the unload track so the "HO scale
Truckers" will have swing room to
make the turn onto that road without
worries of dropping their tandems
in the ditch if their running 53 foot
trailers!!!!
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Another nice video , Ken! It may be time for a new Carhart work shirt or at least a stitch job on your sleeve! Keep the awesome videos coming!
Great show! I love watching these
You are such a perfectionist... Really nice to see
Just a word about safety...some of the low temp alloys can give off nasty fumes. (Cerrobend might have cadmium, which is not too kind to your body). Good ventilation is a must. Also, consider using a double boiler technique (ladle in a pot of boiling water) instead of the soldering iron. This should keep you at lower temps than your soldering iron, which means minimal fumes.
Yes, this is very dangerous stuff. Ken, I recommend that you remake this video with a warning message on it. You don't want to be hit with a liability suit.
Inspiring! Thanks for sharing. Awesome work. Love it!!!
The road, loading area, and surrounding scenery work was very informative. I'm now planning to use those techniques in a couple of places. Thank you so very much for sharing your knowledge with us !
I think I will try this . I use reg. Plaster and love my cracks.. been on there 6 years but that looks interesting...
I have been waiting for you to work on this section, about time. Good stuff.
I don't have tonnes of experience but when I first started watching what you were doing to the track... gotta admit, a bit horrifying, lol. But by the end of the video, I'm very impressed! I watch a lot of tutorials, but have never come across one like this. And this is what you actually see in the 1:1 world. I'm going to add "buried track" (for lack of a better term?) on a siding on my layout. Adds a lot to the realism of the layout. Thanks for putting this on. Subscribed and looking forward to your other videos.
Section on weighting cars was interesting. Cerrabend is used to bend tubing with kinking tubes. Placed inside tubes as a liquid and heated to remove. Keep up the good work!
The color the India ink makes the road and unloading surface is real close to old asphalt. The unloading area could use some additional weathering. Such a large area of uniformly defect free asphalt is not found unless newly resurfaced in the real world. It needs cracks especially around edges, simulated tire ruts, and oil leak stains where the trucks would sit to be loaded and unloaded. Maybe tire marks from the fork truck. Adding these things would make it better match the appearance of the siding being burried and unmantained. As a truck driver I have never seen a uniform, pristine loading/unloading area. Heavy trucks with heavy loads do damage, weather does damage. And all of what I mentioned can be achieved with a little paint, a sharpie, a steady hand, and time.
love this segment ken on the paving part,george has some good tips on adding weight to locomotives and freight cars which comes at a good time as I,m working on a log car conversion using an older walthers GSC flatcar kit and I'm not using the steel weight that came with the kit because I cut the deck up so I came across some deluxe materials liquid gravity that I'll trying out..
Liquid gravity works great, just seal it with some liquid super glue (take care of the fumes).
Ken, Paved area looks very neat and George’s section on weighting cars was also most useful.
Ken great video, so that Jar OF DAP IS made with or has VINYL Iinit? Great stuff for roads,Thanks
And going bsck yo your line painting I n September 2026, where did you buy that masking tape for the white and yellowlines? Do you have a link for that tape?. Thanks again
I need advise more on sidewalks... I wish I had money and time like most people. I used cheap stuff as for me does work great as I know how to. But if I had again time and money to spend as I'm a hard worker. I can do a great layout.. I only have a 13 ft x 15 ft . But I have a middle board that's 12 ft of city and road . Lights, traffic... More then track but I might change or go through my dinning room lol ...., Joe
I don't have to go online to Lombard Hobbies. I can go to their store in Lombard Il. Great road Video
Another great how to video.
Thanks again now I have to try it
THANK YOU SHARE VIDEO
GREAT WATCHING
I just purchased from Lombard yesterday and its already shipped lol Lombard is one of my go-to spots for N scale!!!
Very interesting and informative, really liked the road construction. Where did you get the curved rasp you used to carve your foam?
Great video. I am wondering at the 23:55 minute mark did the "concrete" shrink or is it not as opaque as it seems to look like, as the ties are still visible?
Paved areas - now that is neat.
Helpful tips. I am developing WWI and WWII exhibition layouts that feature British and US locomotives
I've always wondered about a recommended weight for model locomotives. The NMRA has set standards for freight cars and I just wonder if there is a way to set up weight standards for locomotives. There could be a chart of minimum weight to get the locomotive to pull a certain number of cars increasing the weight in steps up to a maximum weight of what a certain type of single locomotive should be for it to pull the same amount of cars as the prototype model pulls. Then there could be charts showing the same information with 2 locomotives of the same type and so on and then charts showing mixed consists of locomotives. That's a lot of work for someone at the NMRA standards department to do if they're looking for something to do. All locomotives from the first steam locomotives through electrics and diesel electrics up to the newest locomotives now. With all the different types of locomotives having different weights and lengths and wow at the calculations that would need to be done. 🤯 I don't think it would work to do it by length of the locomotive like they do with the weight standards for freight cars because the locomotives are given more tractive effort by weighing more. So I don't think one type locomotive that weighs less than another but is the same length could pull the same amount of cars so thats why I say I don't think it would work by length like freight cars. Anyone have any opinions on this on how it could be done? 👍
It came out great, a little messy. 0verall awesome video very informational. Wouldn't woodlands smooth-it road system be more ideal than actual concrete mortar?
Might, i you want to pay the price...
High Five, Ken!
rock n roll
What is the height of static grass used on the siding?
What about the huge cracks on the part of the road next to the backdrop?
US railroads seem so open to the public...UK railways are totally fenced off !
Wooo! LOMBARD HOBBIES!
I definitely like more "working time" . Unlike plaster. 👍
Can you tell us where to get the bent rasp? I have been looking for one for ages ever since I saw you use one several years ago.
It’s called a “surform”, although I have no idea why. You can get flat ones, or curved ones like Ken uses. I got mine from Amazon.
@@andrewb9590 Thanks, I'll have to look at this and the price. I have a blacksmith that will bend one for me.
No need to get it bent. You buy it with a curved “blade”. www.amazon.ca/dp/B00002X1ZH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_imm_S7PMCTFDANDZHSQ9KE73
Sorry David - I thought you were talking about the tool being used at approx 3:05. But I think you were actually referring to the one at 21:30 or so. That is an interesting tool (and the surform is in the background ;) ). And now your blacksmith comment makes way more sense...
@@andrewb9590 If I can buy them and get them bent at a good price, I'll offer them for sale...
With all due respect, George, using those alloys is not new to model railroading. You will find articles and references (maybe even ads) in Model Railroader back in the '50s or 60's.
You need to watch the Bennet Railroad... You could learn quite a few ways to make it more realistic with much better detailing...
That melted metal...i dunno about that lol
I was in the same boat before I tried it. Made me nervous, but it works.
Sugarfire!
WNTW is sponsored by,,,Ca....Lombard Hobbies!