Years ago a dude that had a valve drop in a blown 454 told me to always use stainless steel valves to handle the heat of boosted engines. Thanks for sharing the tear down! I learn so much watching you. Thanks again👍
Your project is super cool, definitely thinking outside the box! You can tell you obviously put a ton of work into making it work. That custom intake is pretty nuts! I will say, and you obviously know, tuning is vital. Even for just a cam swap, the amount of people that installed the same cam that I did but they took it to a shop that couldn't make it run right was eye opening. Dyno tuning is the way to go when it comes to a big mod like an aggressive cam or boost. At the very least a very good tuner and a AF ratio gauge to monitor specifically what's going on as the tune gets adjusted. I think you're on the right track going with different pistons in the new motor. Props to you for staying positive through the whole thing!
Stock 5.7s can take 10-15lbs. Some people get lucky frost bite ran hit 20psi on a SBE. Modern red hemi used to run 12+lbs even 15 on SBE 5.7. I think some people get lucky and others don’t. Excited to see what’s next with this build
It was actually almost a let down, because I was expecting to see failed ring lands, but with this, it appears there was an unspecified mechanical failure, which I don't like not knowing exactly what happened!
Performance mods are often risky and it definitely helps to remain good-natured and not freak out. We move past the disappointment and keep on goin'! 😎
aw you tease of course youre gonna make me wait longer for the hood! Super excited to see everything come back together and see the little fixes make everything perfect again .
I can understand why tuners would be hesitant to help considering the public profile of the vehicle. I’m a Hemi tuner out of TX. Happy to chat and see if I can help. Love the channel by the way.
I can't belive it was a year and a half to build that car. It sure didn't seem like it was that long. Man Sky, you definitely didn't go half way on the carnage. That's just crazy. But on the other hand it's going to be fun putting a 6.4L in it. It is to bad you weren't able to get a couple of passes in before it came apart to see the difference between a 5.7 and a 6.4 in the car. But having made the contacts you have now you can get it tuned and really running good for next year's race.
You as well my man! Hoping to get this thing dialed this summer so I can make the whole event this time. Actually, I'll start my goals small, hopefully I complete the first DAY this time. 😂 Are you coming with the same crew this year?
I think it's safe to say that you had a valve failure. Back in the late 80's I was racing on the asphalt ovals of New England, running a '69 - 340, the valves that were used was a 2 piece valve verses a 1 piece machined valve. Well I had a valve failure and needless to say, there went that engine, and the damage between both of our engines are about the same, so my point is, go with a top of the line 1 piece valve, and if you're reusing stock valves, at least get them magnafluxed or x-rayed. Good luck.
My friend have a 1000 rear wheel horsepower on stock bottom end. ARP connecting rods piston top ring .0045 2nd ring .0050 and oil ring .015 Arp main bolts too
I wonder if you hydrolocked it fuel injector dumping to much fuel. I did the same but mine was from the water methanol system found the boost sensor was faulty and was turning the water methanol on when you didn't want it. In turn it filled the intercooler and intake first time we didn't find the cause it wasn't until the second engine and during testing i seen the boost gauge going crazy spiking at 99 and you could hear the car and watch the wide band go rich than way lean. Had one of my guys start tapping on the sensor and sure enough it was setting off the water meth glad i got it inside took it apart did my test and the second engine was still ok I've eliminated the water methanol since then until we can get this solved. Ordered a new sensor but after something like that your skeptical. I have the same thought as you building a 6.4 instead. Those stock bottom ends can't handle boost but if you build it there a animal. Good call
@@ReignitedAuto hey reignited I have a question, how hard would it be to swap a 5.7 hemi into a 2015 3.6 8speed charger I've dumped money into the body prepping it for boost or a swap (lowering springs, 275 tires, 2 piston calipers with bigger drilled and slotted rotors carbon fiber brakes and a true duel exhaust) so I was curious to know how much work would go into it because the easy thing would be to buy an RT but my car is payed off and in excellent condition the N/A restricted V6 engine is all that's holding it back so my options are boost or a swap
My money is with the exhaust valve dropped. The amount of damage to the head looks like it was bouncing around and getting beat between the piston and head until the piston failed. Great video! Looking forward to the new engine
Based on the way the piston seems to have failed I'm inclined to agree with you. Strange though as I've never seen a valve straight up fail in a 09+ Hemi head. I've seen valve springs break, but not the valve itself.
@@ReignitedAuto It’s very similar damage to the pre-eagle when they would drop valve seats…not very common on an Eagle, but not impossible I suppose. Perhaps the seat dropped (as it did seem to be missing from the head) wedged the valve open, and the rest as they say, is history.
@MongrelsGarage it's definitely missing, but my feeling is that it's residual from the valve head/ piston bits flying all through the cylinder. The exhaust valve stem is still situated properly in the head, but it's broken off flush, which is very suspicious to me I would have expected to see the stem bent and torn rather than broken flush. 🤔
What kind of static compression ratio were you running with stock pistons, rods and crank? Wouldnt that be too much for boosting? Don't most builders LOWER the compression for boosting?
Running the stock 10.5:1 which is somewhat aggressive it's true. With the new forged pistons I believe it'll drop to 10:1 which is a little bit more friendly. I will say that most modern engines handle boost much better than older engines did so you can be more aggressive on the compression ration. That is, if you tune it properly 😂
Look up modern red hemi or Mopar Motorsport here on RUclips they both pushed 20lbs of boost on a SBE. It’s all about the tune. Check the valve spring see if it broke.
I admire your commitment to this project and creating awesome content! Question! Are you swapping the transmission out on account of the increase in power??
surprisingly the NAG is a pretty decent trans and can hold quite a bit of power in stock form. I fully suspect I'll find some weak points with it though as I continue testing. I've got a spare transmission already that I would like to rebuild and upgrade for when this one lets go. 👍
I'm thinking that there is a problem already with some hemi engines dropping valve seats when they get a little too hot. Maybe the boost or the tune is making it a more extreme situation and causing it to drop valuable seats from excess cylinder head temperature? I know that ford doesn't just track coolant temperature on its ecoboost engines it also tracks cylinder head temperature with a separate sensor. Maybe they are worried about the valve seat or cylinder head temperature spiking and not seeing it quickly enough through a coolant temperature sensor? I believe the ecoboost engines use a boost pressure table for different engine temperature situations.
Generally the 03-08 Hemis' had issues with the valve seats dropping. I've never actually seen a 09+ engine do that, but there's always a first time for everything.
if you have a welder, pull the rods out of the block and run a 1/8 inch rod down each corner of the I beam connecting rod. the whole "I" cavity would optimally be filled with a low hydrogen filler. thus making solid bar rods, only loose 60 naturally asperated horse power and 1100rpm off the rev limiter... my NA 4.6 2 valve ford broke 5 of the 8.8 32 spline axles, has an AAM1150 under it now... takes 0.4 miles to get up to 70mph at 3300 feet elevation with a curb weight of 4930 pounds... still very close to that OEM 1/4 mile with the elevation correction, tho with 1200 pounds added to it and 380'000km. the 4R70E works really good, 500blft of clutch clamp really did in the flimsy 8.8 axles.... solid 1_5/8 shaft and a 4.10 gear.
if gears go one way they go the other way to so a 128'000psi tensile cast crank that makes 300hp to the rear gear of being 8'000lbft of sprung shock load, that could pulsate back up to the crank shaft because the transmission grabs that 550lbft engagement to hard... if its a 3 inch crank that's a 15'000lbft load limit on the over all gearing limitation so a 11.73 first gear would be 1273lbft at the crank shaft that would in theory start micro fracturing the flex plate bolt location same as the 8.8 axles that twisted 30 degrees before shearing off, timing goes way out before it actually lets go.
I don't know if it is possible based on your fuel system, but I wonder if you had an injector hang open, dump so much fuel in there that it hydrolocked that cylinder. Looks like you got the ring gap dialed in though :)
My father had a Chevy truck with a 427 that dropped number 5 exhaust valve that looked pretty much the same. At least that is what I guessed happened to it. So much damage but piston definitely hit valve. Whichever one it was? I am guessing valve broke off and hit piston? U can see so many times it hit inside the head chamber till the piston obliterated?
Joel Applegate noted on a gen 3 swap group that factory fueling is different on the odd cylinders. I wonder if your custom manifold and adders have changed the air fuel distribution enough that detonation and a lean condition now exist. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.
I personally don't know Joel, but he rode shotgun with Joe O'cone on Dragweek a couple times, and I believe Joel was involved in the SRT program or Hellcat development to some degree. I found his post on the G3 Hemi Swap FB group and the comment was under Phillip Romano's post about breaking ring lands in his engine. Joel did refer to the fueling issue being related to 6.4 factory intake and factory ecu setting. Hope this helps, keep up the good work, I always look forward to your videos!
Skyy I have a 2012 Charger R/T with 5.7 hemmi. Need to pull the engine ( bad rod knock. Brought that way). What size bolts would I used. To screw into the front and rear of the cylinder head to use chain to take it out .
I’m trying to upgrade my ram truck I found a 5.7 hemi it of a 2013 jeep Comanche with that block work in my truck with my accessories and time and chain cover
How much boost are you making with the supercharger and turbo combined? It is probably too much for the stock hypereutectic pistons. Forged is the way to go with a boosted Hemi engine. I was bummed when I saw that the engine blew up twice. I really wanted to see the Magnum take off.
My last 5.7 let go at 7100 rpm lol. Stretched a rod and blew a fist sized hole in the block on one side and left a perfect i beam shaped puncture on the other hahahaha
I'm not especially a fan of using E85, only because in my area it's harder to come by and I don't want to have to think about that when I need fuel. I know I could go with a flex fuel sensor and that would assist, but also if I went that route I'd have to go larger on my injector size, ect... There's a lot to take into consideration and with my power goals I don't want to have to change a bunch of other stuff at this point. I got the forged set from MMX performance, Mahle pistons and Molnar rods. 👍
How possible is it to run an Eaton m90 on a 5.7 hemi? Would the manifold you made work with that kind of setup? Was also trying to search if m90’s would work on 5.9 magnums
Unfortunately the M90 is going to be much too small. In fact, the M112 I'm using here is too small. Go check out Richard Holdener's youtube channel, he's been doing a whole series on the M90 blower on 4.8ls and it shows the limitations of that blower. 👍
Im putting a stage 3 tsp cam on a 2012 charger with a 5.7 in it but i caint find push rods for it what kind should i go for the stock mopart or do I upgrade!!???
I realize that it's cool to have a car that is supercharged and turbocharged, but the honest truth is the supercharger is nothing but an air heater in this situation. The turbo can supply all the boost needed. All the superchargers doing is heating the air before it goes in the motor
You are absolutely correct! Most of what I build isn't what you would call the most efficient design 😂. I just like to build things I think are interesting, and this was a personal challenge to myself to see if I could make it work. I've been sort of successful so far LOL.
I say Its a Tuning Issue And Possibly More Heat than its Rated for from All that Forced induction that Toasted the Engine. The 5.7's have been known to Drop Valve Seats On Over heated Engines. Since the Most Damage Is On Cyl #2, I'd Say its A Combination of Both is the Cause/Culprit.
I was under the impression that the 5.7 had a forged rotating assembly and the 6.4 had the weaker of the assemblies. From what I had heard anyway. Its always possible that they were wrong i guess.
First off just want to say THANK YOU for all of your videos , your explanations on everything are awesome. Quick question , i have a 2022 RT 5.7 Hemi , do you recommend I use 5W-20 oil or 5W-30 oil ? Dodge recommends the 5W-20 but I’ve heard some people use the latter
I'm a fan of sticking with the factory recommended weight oil. In fact, if you do switch to 5-30 you can set a code for incorrect oil type. Since these engines use a fixed displacement oil pump the software knows what the engine oil pressure should be at a given temperature. If you bump it to 5-30 there's a chance that it will read higher than normal and set a code.
Honestly, there's no need to do a 2x boosted system as the available pistons, rods, etc. cannot handle what an LS can with reliable longevity for a drag & drive scenario. Deleting one will make the end result easier to manage and tune. Our 2¢ and all the best going forward. Cheers!
There's no question this car would make more power with just the turbo. I made this setup as a personal challenge to myself to see if I could do it. Results are mixed so far 😄 but I'm committed to making it work. Ironically in the 3 seconds before it blew up the concept was working perfectly because you can see in the datalog that the supercharger immediately lit the turbo to the full 14psi. The supercharger makes 8 on its own, and the wastegate spring is 14psi and is referenced from the intake manifold so really the turbo is only adding an additional 6psi before the wastegate opens. But like I said, you could feel and see from the datalog that it actually worked. Plus the car drove fantastic on the four hour drive down to the event. I think it has potential, but I'm sure there'll be more headaches to come 😄
@@ReignitedAuto Like the fact that you're not giving up and you've eclipsed your goal and it did work, but as that saying goes--until it didn't. What is the HP goal on this project?
@@ReignitedAuto Not. at all; 650 RWHP is doable for sure. It's going to take some cash to get there in parts for the engine to handle that at the flywheel but doable. Suggest you shelf one power adder as doing so would make tuning less problematic and shed some weight. Cheers!
When you had the problem last time and put the other pistons in did you use the same heads? I wonder if you did maybe the piece of the piston cause some damage to the valve and / or seat that wasn't visible and it finally took it out when you put it under track load. #2 was one of the cylinders that had piston damage the first time.... 🤔, and since it and the exhaust valve was destroyed?? Just a thought that could possibly explain it.
Walter I was definitely thinking along the same lines myself. I didn't notice anything when I put it back together, but I was rushing and also you can't always see if there's actually a failure. You could be right!
Hay guys can someone tell me what is the difference from a car 6.4 hemi car piston vs a big gas 6.4 truck piston? Also is it possible to use a hellcat piston in a truck 6.4? They have the same rods ?
Is the truck 6.4 intake variable runner like the car one? If not, I’d think it be just a long run intake for torque which might hurt peak hp #s if that’s what you’re looking for? I’d check the message boards for Challengers and Chargers to find out what gains were made by somebody who’s done it if you don’t get any reply’s here.
Looks like valve failure, seat lose even its rare on +09 or maybe broken spring. When valve fails, it rly shatters piston. If would been tune, fuel, timing issue all pistons would have sings of it. Check con rod bearing for weird wear or if piston rings lost tension. But i would say that is valve train failure
To be honest the 05 to 08 hemi, the bottom In is a little bit stronger I push 700 hp out of my 07 300 C has the stock bottom end been like that for four years now, and I beat the hell out of it every day hasn’t skipped a beat yet
@@ReignitedAuto yeah I know I rebuilt a couple of them. The Pistons do like a little more beefier than the 09+ the only thing with the 05 to 08is the valve seats that sucks about them but really I mean as long as you don’t overheat them, they usually don’t drop and as long as you don’t use MDS for long periods of time on the highway and then immediately shut it off and you just let it idle for a few seconds, and then shut it off i’ve never had a seat drop on me yet
I don't doubt it, especially with a couple other factors that I haven't talked about yet, but even so, for it to only happen to one cylinder is confusing.
Chicken or the egg scenario for sure. Piston failed first? Valve failed first? Tough to say. the engine was running at 4800rpm and 14psi when it failed. I'll never know the true answer, but it's kind of moot at this point.
@ReignitedAuto I like what you do, painful to watch you go through as you develop this thing. If it was me, a hotter cam with emphasis on exhaust, wider LSA, .550-.600" lift, that will kill some of the low end pressure, wider ring gap, and some thick crown pistons.
@ReignitedAuto that was positivity.... trying to save you some dough. Also remove that 90s technology of a SC off... turbo would be cool enough for views... 6.1 intake (I have one forsale). As you work out the kinks the blower will be one of the first to go anyway.
@sojer6mile oh I know it would be faster with just the turbo, building it this way was a personal challenge to myself to see if I could do the fabrication required. 👍
@ReignitedAuto you did it now toss it... I'm sure someone would buy it... I seen a guy with a 3rd gen 2500 with one bolted on saying he's making 700whp lmao 🤣
@@ReignitedAuto Keep on keeping on. I have an idea about soldering the valve seats into the head to keep them from falling out. I don't have any head to experiment on. But you do and I think it would make for a great video. I think they tin the steel before soldering the pieces together or something like that but it they just fall out soldering might be the easiest way to stop them from moving. Kind of like JB welding them but with better heat resistance.
Did you increase the ring end gaps at least,. 2618 pistons forged rods. Then a kenne bell 3.6 liter blower. Way easier to tune and boom Hellcat killer. All that extra stuff using twin charger just way to many things to go wrong.
It's absolutely ridiculous that's true 😄. I've said since the beginning that I would probably make more power with just the turbo itself and it would be much simpler. This project was a personal challenge to myself to see if I could do all the fabrication involved. The ring gap on this engine was hilariously large, think .040" LOL. I have to say I'm thinking at this point that it wasn't a ringland issue like it was last time, but potentially a mechanical failure.
Years ago a dude that had a valve drop in a blown 454 told me to always use stainless steel valves to handle the heat of boosted engines. Thanks for sharing the tear down! I learn so much watching you. Thanks again👍
I continue to be impressed with your "can-do" attitude, looking forward to the build!
I appreciate it, nothing else to do but get after it! 👍
"Milkshake...delicious" LOL - great sense of humor! Excited to see the upgraded 392 bullet! Keep up the great work.
I'm excited to put the 392 together and get it in, still waiting for my camshaft though which is messing with my timeline...
Your project is super cool, definitely thinking outside the box! You can tell you obviously put a ton of work into making it work. That custom intake is pretty nuts! I will say, and you obviously know, tuning is vital. Even for just a cam swap, the amount of people that installed the same cam that I did but they took it to a shop that couldn't make it run right was eye opening. Dyno tuning is the way to go when it comes to a big mod like an aggressive cam or boost. At the very least a very good tuner and a AF ratio gauge to monitor specifically what's going on as the tune gets adjusted. I think you're on the right track going with different pistons in the new motor. Props to you for staying positive through the whole thing!
Needs some forged slugs and rods, velocity stacks in the intake, E85 and professional tuning. Dig that build! :)
Forged bottom end and professional tuning coming up! 👍
@@ReignitedAuto yeah!! That thing is going to Rip!!
Stock 5.7s can take 10-15lbs. Some people get lucky frost bite ran hit 20psi on a SBE. Modern red hemi used to run 12+lbs even 15 on SBE 5.7. I think some people get lucky and others don’t. Excited to see what’s next with this build
Gator almost got ya! 😅
That cylinder 2 really grenaded 😮 goodness gracious
It was actually almost a let down, because I was expecting to see failed ring lands, but with this, it appears there was an unspecified mechanical failure, which I don't like not knowing exactly what happened!
Sorry to see a good engine go down, looking forward to the 6.4 build up.
Should be pretty solid! I certainly hope anyway, too expensive to break again LOL!
thank you for having trial in error, really helps us in depth.
Performance mods are often risky and it definitely helps to remain good-natured and not freak out. We move past the disappointment and keep on goin'! 😎
No doubt about it! 👍
aw you tease of course youre gonna make me wait longer for the hood!
Super excited to see everything come back together and see the little fixes make everything perfect again .
Carnage! Looking forward to the 6.4 build.
Hopefully it'll be the last engine I build for this car 😬
@ReignitedAuto I'm confident it will be. If at first you don't succeed...you do it again using a 6.4. 😁
I can understand why tuners would be hesitant to help considering the public profile of the vehicle.
I’m a Hemi tuner out of TX. Happy to chat and see if I can help.
Love the channel by the way.
Certainly appreciate that! Do you work with HP Tuners?
Yes I do 👌🏼
If you use the hellcat oil pump. Use the hell cat dipstick and tube. Or just over fill the oil.
Great video wish I was one of your neighbors. I’ll be over to help you every day.
Apprentice time! 👍
I can't belive it was a year and a half to build that car. It sure didn't seem like it was that long.
Man Sky, you definitely didn't go half way on the carnage. That's just crazy. But on the other hand it's going to be fun putting a 6.4L in it. It is to bad you weren't able to get a couple of passes in before it came apart to see the difference between a 5.7 and a 6.4 in the car. But having made the contacts you have now you can get it tuned and really running good for next year's race.
It's funny, based on the 2.5 seconds of how it sounded when it died I knew already that is was going to be ugly when I tore it down! 😂
I would say since you have the intake off, I’d see if you could weld velocity stacks in there for better airflow
Was great to meet you at the Redwood Rally. Hopefully we will see you there again this year!
You as well my man! Hoping to get this thing dialed this summer so I can make the whole event this time. Actually, I'll start my goals small, hopefully I complete the first DAY this time. 😂 Are you coming with the same crew this year?
@@ReignitedAuto we should all be there again and I think plus one brother.
Killer, excited to see the next phase. Wish you luck Sky!
unfortunate for what happened but we all know things can happen looking forward to seeing how itt turns out
We’ve been waiting for this video!
If I keep it running long enough you might actually get a ride in it this time! 😂
I think it's safe to say that you had a valve failure. Back in the late 80's I was racing on the asphalt ovals of New England, running a '69 - 340, the valves that were used was a 2 piece valve verses a 1 piece machined valve. Well I had a valve failure and needless to say, there went that engine, and the damage between both of our engines are about the same, so my point is, go with a top of the line 1 piece valve, and if you're reusing stock valves, at least get them magnafluxed or x-rayed. Good luck.
My friend have a 1000 rear wheel horsepower on stock bottom end. ARP connecting rods piston top ring .0045 2nd ring .0050 and oil ring .015 Arp main bolts too
The pistons aren’t THAT weak. IMO, you need a professional tuner. Many people run up to 15psi on sbe.
Oh trust me, that's definitely going to happen this time! It's too expensive not to 😂
The 6.4 Build Will be Of Particular interest to Me Because I'm Doing One too.
I wonder if you hydrolocked it fuel injector dumping to much fuel. I did the same but mine was from the water methanol system found the boost sensor was faulty and was turning the water methanol on when you didn't want it. In turn it filled the intercooler and intake first time we didn't find the cause it wasn't until the second engine and during testing i seen the boost gauge going crazy spiking at 99 and you could hear the car and watch the wide band go rich than way lean. Had one of my guys start tapping on the sensor and sure enough it was setting off the water meth glad i got it inside took it apart did my test and the second engine was still ok I've eliminated the water methanol since then until we can get this solved. Ordered a new sensor but after something like that your skeptical. I have the same thought as you building a 6.4 instead. Those stock bottom ends can't handle boost but if you build it there a animal. Good call
Time to turn that block into a coffee table.
If it were aluminum maybe, this thing is heavy! 😄
@@ReignitedAuto hey reignited I have a question, how hard would it be to swap a 5.7 hemi into a 2015 3.6 8speed charger I've dumped money into the body prepping it for boost or a swap (lowering springs, 275 tires, 2 piston calipers with bigger drilled and slotted rotors carbon fiber brakes and a true duel exhaust) so I was curious to know how much work would go into it because the easy thing would be to buy an RT but my car is payed off and in excellent condition the N/A restricted V6 engine is all that's holding it back so my options are boost or a swap
You're being a really good sport about this 😂
Eh, what else can ya do? 😂
Should find a 6.1 block and jam the 426 stroker kit in it
Another great “what happened “ video 👍
Thanks Eric!
I have seen at least 2 stock 392's cough up pistons when boosted with a Magnuson supercharger.😢
I was definitely not overly impressed with the stock 6.4 pistons when I pulled them out of the donor engine.
My money is with the exhaust valve dropped. The amount of damage to the head looks like it was bouncing around and getting beat between the piston and head until the piston failed. Great video! Looking forward to the new engine
Based on the way the piston seems to have failed I'm inclined to agree with you. Strange though as I've never seen a valve straight up fail in a 09+ Hemi head. I've seen valve springs break, but not the valve itself.
@@ReignitedAuto It’s very similar damage to the pre-eagle when they would drop valve seats…not very common on an Eagle, but not impossible I suppose. Perhaps the seat dropped (as it did seem to be missing from the head) wedged the valve open, and the rest as they say, is history.
@MongrelsGarage it's definitely missing, but my feeling is that it's residual from the valve head/ piston bits flying all through the cylinder. The exhaust valve stem is still situated properly in the head, but it's broken off flush, which is very suspicious to me I would have expected to see the stem bent and torn rather than broken flush. 🤔
What kind of static compression ratio were you running with stock pistons, rods and crank? Wouldnt that be too much for boosting? Don't most builders LOWER the compression for boosting?
Running the stock 10.5:1 which is somewhat aggressive it's true. With the new forged pistons I believe it'll drop to 10:1 which is a little bit more friendly. I will say that most modern engines handle boost much better than older engines did so you can be more aggressive on the compression ration. That is, if you tune it properly 😂
Look up modern red hemi or Mopar Motorsport here on RUclips they both pushed 20lbs of boost on a SBE. It’s all about the tune. Check the valve spring see if it broke.
I'll check em out! 👍
Mrh was only about 14 to 15 but also used a 35 shot as well
It was a sweet burnout though at least 👍🏼
😂 I'll take any consolation I can get!
I admire your commitment to this project and creating awesome content! Question! Are you swapping the transmission out on account of the increase in power??
surprisingly the NAG is a pretty decent trans and can hold quite a bit of power in stock form. I fully suspect I'll find some weak points with it though as I continue testing. I've got a spare transmission already that I would like to rebuild and upgrade for when this one lets go. 👍
I'm thinking that there is a problem already with some hemi engines dropping valve seats when they get a little too hot. Maybe the boost or the tune is making it a more extreme situation and causing it to drop valuable seats from excess cylinder head temperature? I know that ford doesn't just track coolant temperature on its ecoboost engines it also tracks cylinder head temperature with a separate sensor. Maybe they are worried about the valve seat or cylinder head temperature spiking and not seeing it quickly enough through a coolant temperature sensor? I believe the ecoboost engines use a boost pressure table for different engine temperature situations.
Generally the 03-08 Hemis' had issues with the valve seats dropping. I've never actually seen a 09+ engine do that, but there's always a first time for everything.
Carnage!!! Sucks but I love this build
Even after 13 years of being a professional tech, I still love seeing engine carnage, even if it's my own!
WOW I don't think I have ever seen a piston that broke up.
With a quality pcm calibration and quality race gas or E85. You should be able to run 10's all day with a boosted stock bottom end Hemi.
I'd love to take another crack at it a different time, just not on this vehicle!
if you have a welder, pull the rods out of the block and run a 1/8 inch rod down each corner of the I beam connecting rod. the whole "I" cavity would optimally be filled with a low hydrogen filler. thus making solid bar rods, only loose 60 naturally asperated horse power and 1100rpm off the rev limiter... my NA 4.6 2 valve ford broke 5 of the 8.8 32 spline axles, has an AAM1150 under it now... takes 0.4 miles to get up to 70mph at 3300 feet elevation with a curb weight of 4930 pounds... still very close to that OEM 1/4 mile with the elevation correction, tho with 1200 pounds added to it and 380'000km. the 4R70E works really good, 500blft of clutch clamp really did in the flimsy 8.8 axles.... solid 1_5/8 shaft and a 4.10 gear.
if gears go one way they go the other way to so a 128'000psi tensile cast crank that makes 300hp to the rear gear of being 8'000lbft of sprung shock load, that could pulsate back up to the crank shaft because the transmission grabs that 550lbft engagement to hard... if its a 3 inch crank that's a 15'000lbft load limit on the over all gearing limitation so a 11.73 first gear would be 1273lbft at the crank shaft that would in theory start micro fracturing the flex plate bolt location same as the 8.8 axles that twisted 30 degrees before shearing off, timing goes way out before it actually lets go.
allright stroker time
💪
I don't know if it is possible based on your fuel system, but I wonder if you had an injector hang open, dump so much fuel in there that it hydrolocked that cylinder. Looks like you got the ring gap dialed in though :)
My father had a Chevy truck with a 427 that dropped number 5 exhaust valve that looked pretty much the same. At least that is what I guessed happened to it. So much damage but piston definitely hit valve. Whichever one it was? I am guessing valve broke off and hit piston? U can see so many times it hit inside the head chamber till the piston obliterated?
Joel Applegate noted on a gen 3 swap group that factory fueling is different on the odd cylinders. I wonder if your custom manifold and adders have changed the air fuel distribution enough that detonation and a lean condition now exist. I'm sure you'll get it figured out.
Huh, I wonder where he's getting that information, and why that would possibly be the case? I love learning new things though!
I personally don't know Joel, but he rode shotgun with Joe O'cone on Dragweek a couple times, and I believe Joel was involved in the SRT program or Hellcat development to some degree. I found his post on the G3 Hemi Swap FB group and the comment was under Phillip Romano's post about breaking ring lands in his engine. Joel did refer to the fueling issue being related to 6.4 factory intake and factory ecu setting. Hope this helps, keep up the good work, I always look forward to your videos!
Can’t wait for the new build
Skyy I have a 2012 Charger R/T with 5.7 hemmi. Need to pull the engine ( bad rod knock. Brought that way). What size bolts would I used. To screw into the front and rear of the cylinder head to use chain to take it out .
You have a positive attitude about this. I would be tearing my hair out. 😅
The simple truth is that I truly do love this stuff, so I'm excited for the chance to build it even better! Appreciate you watching 👍
No replacement for displacement, right?
Truth, just add more 💪
Don’t blame the motor or bottom end, it’s all in the tuning.
I’m trying to upgrade my ram truck I found a 5.7 hemi it of a 2013 jeep Comanche with that block work in my truck with my accessories and time and chain cover
hey man quick question what valve cover gaskets do you recommend that will not leak ?
How much boost are you making with the supercharger and turbo combined? It is probably too much for the stock hypereutectic pistons. Forged is the way to go with a boosted Hemi engine.
I was bummed when I saw that the engine blew up twice. I really wanted to see the Magnum take off.
Wwwaaaayyyy to much for sbe 5.7 but i love it. All the carnage!
As soon as it went I thought, "This engine is toast" 😂
My last 5.7 let go at 7100 rpm lol. Stretched a rod and blew a fist sized hole in the block on one side and left a perfect i beam shaped puncture on the other hahahaha
@@hemitic1254 That's awesome!
This really sucks and I feel for you brother but I’m looking forward to your next build 👍😁
would you be doing any e85 stuff ? Would it be possible to know which forged pistons you will be using ?
I'm not especially a fan of using E85, only because in my area it's harder to come by and I don't want to have to think about that when I need fuel. I know I could go with a flex fuel sensor and that would assist, but also if I went that route I'd have to go larger on my injector size, ect... There's a lot to take into consideration and with my power goals I don't want to have to change a bunch of other stuff at this point. I got the forged set from MMX performance, Mahle pistons and Molnar rods. 👍
Yeah that makes sense. Looking forward to see how the forged set reacts to boost, looking to do that myself to my 6.4@@ReignitedAuto
How possible is it to run an Eaton m90 on a 5.7 hemi? Would the manifold you made work with that kind of setup? Was also trying to search if m90’s would work on 5.9 magnums
Unfortunately the M90 is going to be much too small. In fact, the M112 I'm using here is too small. Go check out Richard Holdener's youtube channel, he's been doing a whole series on the M90 blower on 4.8ls and it shows the limitations of that blower. 👍
Im putting a stage 3 tsp cam on a 2012 charger with a 5.7 in it but i caint find push rods for it what kind should i go for the stock mopart or do I upgrade!!???
I guess all you can do is laugh about it, Dude you really grenaded that thing...
💣💣💣 😂
Great video as always
I realize that it's cool to have a car that is supercharged and turbocharged, but the honest truth is the supercharger is nothing but an air heater in this situation. The turbo can supply all the boost needed. All the superchargers doing is heating the air before it goes in the motor
You are absolutely correct! Most of what I build isn't what you would call the most efficient design 😂. I just like to build things I think are interesting, and this was a personal challenge to myself to see if I could make it work. I've been sort of successful so far LOL.
I say Its a Tuning Issue And Possibly More Heat than its Rated for from All that Forced induction that Toasted the Engine. The 5.7's have been known to Drop Valve Seats On Over heated Engines. Since the Most Damage Is On Cyl #2, I'd Say its A Combination of Both is the Cause/Culprit.
Like a Phoenix the twincharged magnum will come back stronger
💪
I was under the impression that the 5.7 had a forged rotating assembly and the 6.4 had the weaker of the assemblies. From what I had heard anyway. Its always possible that they were wrong i guess.
ive always heard the same thing.
I always wonder where these rumors get started? Perhaps the 6.4 rods are weaker, but the crank is forged on the 6.4 whereas it's not on the 5.7
@@ReignitedAutoYeah its the rods and pistons I keep reading about being weaker. It be interesting to see if all those builders are right or not.
6.4 pistons have rly thin ring land vs 5.7 and 6.1.
I thought that was the primary big difference between 5.7L & 6.1. The 6.1 has a forged steel crank, whereas 5.7's are just cast.
First off just want to say THANK YOU for all of your videos , your explanations on everything are awesome. Quick question , i have a 2022 RT 5.7 Hemi , do you recommend I use 5W-20 oil or 5W-30 oil ? Dodge recommends the 5W-20 but I’ve heard some people use the latter
***2022 Challenger Hemi 5.7
I'm a fan of sticking with the factory recommended weight oil. In fact, if you do switch to 5-30 you can set a code for incorrect oil type. Since these engines use a fixed displacement oil pump the software knows what the engine oil pressure should be at a given temperature. If you bump it to 5-30 there's a chance that it will read higher than normal and set a code.
@@ReignitedAuto awesome , thank you so much for you’re response
Did you open up the ring gap? Asking before I watch the rest of this build but that looks like pinched rings to me
Oh boy did I ever 😂 These were about .040" gap
This is so freaking cool
Thanks for watching!
Honestly, there's no need to do a 2x boosted system as the available pistons, rods, etc. cannot handle what an LS can with reliable longevity for a drag & drive scenario. Deleting one will make the end result easier to manage and tune. Our 2¢ and all the best going forward. Cheers!
There's no question this car would make more power with just the turbo. I made this setup as a personal challenge to myself to see if I could do it. Results are mixed so far 😄 but I'm committed to making it work. Ironically in the 3 seconds before it blew up the concept was working perfectly because you can see in the datalog that the supercharger immediately lit the turbo to the full 14psi. The supercharger makes 8 on its own, and the wastegate spring is 14psi and is referenced from the intake manifold so really the turbo is only adding an additional 6psi before the wastegate opens. But like I said, you could feel and see from the datalog that it actually worked. Plus the car drove fantastic on the four hour drive down to the event. I think it has potential, but I'm sure there'll be more headaches to come 😄
@@ReignitedAuto Like the fact that you're not giving up and you've eclipsed your goal and it did work, but as that saying goes--until it didn't. What is the HP goal on this project?
@@strykerentllc 650 wheel. Shouldn't be that difficult, but...
@@ReignitedAuto Not. at all; 650 RWHP is doable for sure. It's going to take some cash to get there in parts for the engine to handle that at the flywheel but doable. Suggest you shelf one power adder as doing so would make tuning less problematic and shed some weight. Cheers!
Is the 5.7 or 6.4 better cam for boost?
When you had the problem last time and put the other pistons in did you use the same heads? I wonder if you did maybe the piece of the piston cause some damage to the valve and / or seat that wasn't visible and it finally took it out when you put it under track load. #2 was one of the cylinders that had piston damage the first time.... 🤔, and since it and the exhaust valve was destroyed?? Just a thought that could possibly explain it.
Walter I was definitely thinking along the same lines myself. I didn't notice anything when I put it back together, but I was rushing and also you can't always see if there's actually a failure. You could be right!
Was the bent push rod from cylinder 2?
@@waltergrasmick5615 yep, but definitely wasn't like that before 😄
Are you sure it wasn't one of those flexible ones for the variable valve systems? 😮😂😂😂
Hay guys can someone tell me what is the difference from a car 6.4 hemi car piston vs a big gas 6.4 truck piston? Also is it possible to use a hellcat piston in a truck 6.4? They have the same rods ?
Love the content, when you have time what are your thoughts with 5.7 2009-up installing the 6.4 truck intake is it worth it?
Is the truck 6.4 intake variable runner like the car one? If not, I’d think it be just a long run intake for torque which might hurt peak hp #s if that’s what you’re looking for?
I’d check the message boards for Challengers and Chargers to find out what gains were made by somebody who’s done it if you don’t get any reply’s here.
Looks like valve failure, seat lose even its rare on +09 or maybe broken spring. When valve fails, it rly shatters piston. If would been tune, fuel, timing issue all pistons would have sings of it. Check con rod bearing for weird wear or if piston rings lost tension. But i would say that is valve train failure
To be honest the 05 to 08 hemi, the bottom
In is a little bit stronger I push 700 hp out of my 07 300 C has the stock bottom end been like that for four years now, and I beat the hell out of it every day hasn’t skipped a beat yet
I do like the early style pistons, they definitely have more meat to them than the 09+ ones 👍
@@ReignitedAuto yeah I know I rebuilt a couple of them. The Pistons do like a little more beefier than the 09+ the only thing with the 05 to 08is the valve seats that sucks about them but really I mean as long as you don’t overheat them, they usually don’t drop and as long as you don’t use MDS for long periods of time on the highway and then immediately shut it off and you just let it idle for a few seconds, and then shut it off i’ve never had a seat drop on me yet
Some gnarly high cylinder pressures maybe??
I don't doubt it, especially with a couple other factors that I haven't talked about yet, but even so, for it to only happen to one cylinder is confusing.
@ReignitedAuto id be curious if when measured the other show some level of deformation.
Looks like the valve or seat broke and caused destruction of the piston and bent the con rod. I mean all the other 7 pistons looked just fine.
Chicken or the egg scenario for sure. Piston failed first? Valve failed first? Tough to say. the engine was running at 4800rpm and 14psi when it failed. I'll never know the true answer, but it's kind of moot at this point.
M. I. tuning las vegas....
I'll check 'em out!
How much boost was you making?
14psi
Too much psi for stock internals no matter the tune. I think procharger makes their kit with only 7psi and thats about all they can handle.
Oh no not Magnum PI😮😮😮
She's down but not out! 👍 I just counted in my head and since I've had the car I've had the engine out 5 times already 😂
Yeah sure look glass to me. Get some hellcat pistons. Those are proven to take some serious power.
Dude.......get a tuner
Jay Greene, MMX, somebody that can get you safely in the park.
You've suffered enough.
Oh trust me, that's definitely going to happen this time! It's too expensive not to 😂
@ReignitedAuto I like what you do, painful to watch you go through as you develop this thing.
If it was me, a hotter cam with emphasis on exhaust, wider LSA, .550-.600" lift, that will kill some of the low end pressure, wider ring gap, and some thick crown pistons.
Poor man”s Hellcat cost twice what a Hellcat does.
😄 I still don't want to add it up, but I think it's around $20k in this car now. Of course this doesn't include the hundreds of hours of my labor.
It can hold power, just a bad combo on a bad tune.... it will smoke a forged engine too.
Dang, hit me with some positivity here man! Car will be getting professionally tuned this time around, too expensive to keep blowing it up.
@ReignitedAuto that was positivity.... trying to save you some dough. Also remove that 90s technology of a SC off... turbo would be cool enough for views... 6.1 intake (I have one forsale). As you work out the kinks the blower will be one of the first to go anyway.
@sojer6mile oh I know it would be faster with just the turbo, building it this way was a personal challenge to myself to see if I could do the fabrication required. 👍
@ReignitedAuto you did it now toss it... I'm sure someone would buy it... I seen a guy with a 3rd gen 2500 with one bolted on saying he's making 700whp lmao 🤣
Yikes!
Are these engines reliable? I'm beginning to think they are trash.
Well, when you decide to put 14psi through the stock bottom end with my admittedly poor tuning capabilities and you've got a recipe for disaster.
@@ReignitedAuto Keep on keeping on. I have an idea about soldering the valve seats into the head to keep them from falling out. I don't have any head to experiment on. But you do and I think it would make for a great video. I think they tin the steel before soldering the pieces together or something like that but it they just fall out soldering might be the easiest way to stop them from moving. Kind of like JB welding them but with better heat resistance.
Pay for a proper tune. Lol.
Oh trust me, that's definitely going to happen this time! It's too expensive not to 😂
Did you increase the ring end gaps at least,. 2618 pistons forged rods. Then a kenne bell 3.6 liter blower. Way easier to tune and boom Hellcat killer. All that extra stuff using twin charger just way to many things to go wrong.
It's absolutely ridiculous that's true 😄. I've said since the beginning that I would probably make more power with just the turbo itself and it would be much simpler. This project was a personal challenge to myself to see if I could do all the fabrication involved.
The ring gap on this engine was hilariously large, think .040" LOL. I have to say I'm thinking at this point that it wasn't a ringland issue like it was last time, but potentially a mechanical failure.
@ReignitedAuto I hear you. I love my kenne bell 2.8 on my otherwise completely stock 6.1
My 2010 challenger srt8 6 speed at 4600 lbs on drag radials and 12 lbs boost went 11.74 sec at 121.55 mph at 3900 feet da
Catastrophic detonation