My early videos were basic and had poor video and sound - but I think the content was good - not sure if I could get away with doing it again in better quality? Anyway - lead solder is the best for measuring pipes - and I have seen no one do it yet! Mike
Hi Mike, thanks for another great informative video. We’re renovation a Series 3 109. About to replace a number of brake pipes, and also need to replace a number of stand off retaining clips. We’ve purchased replacement stand offs from Paddock but have no idea how they fit and retain. The clip doesn’t seem to have a retaining method, and it seems too large a diameter to just press into the chassis. You mention in this video you’ll explain how to fit them but I can’t seem to find it. Can you help please. Cheers John. Oops sorry just found it.
@@BritannicaRestorations thankyou, I'm doing my lines with someone experienced but I like to do my own research loving the channel, currently watching the 2.25 petrol
So many people are not explaining the difference between double and bubble. Male and female. The female end is simply the same as the american way where it seems all their ends are female but with a male nut as all their unions have a convex mating surface where in europe we usually have concave mating surfaces in the flexi's and in the unions. Then we also have male to female pipes like the one you made. I just discover one as standard in my sprinter but the female end nuts are held by a block of plastic so you can turn the spanner on the male nut end this stops the female from spinning and twisting the pipe and means a female to female union with concave mating surfaces inside is not necessary. Just like the pipe you made. For anyone who is stuck with the cheap tool the trick is to use the copper pipe, de-burr well and file or sand it flat. then use the clamping tool but to use the flat side of the tool and to leave a bit extra sticking out than most of the videos explain. This is because everyone is using the depth gauge (the flange on the side of the die) to set the depth but this is the depth when making a double flare in the concave side of the clamp. Almost nobody explains all of the above and how to make a bubble end with the cheap tool. Turns out that if you watch 5 hours of youtube videos on this subject you can work it out and see all the differences and why everyone is so confused. Whats worrying is that so many people are making these tiny bubble ends because they are using the wrong settings and using the cheap tools incorrectly. You can usually get by but you will find they you might have to crank the nuts down super tight to crush the ends to make a seal and usually the nut is bottoming out by this point! It works but not well and IMO it's dangerous. For those who are struggling with good bubble ends and you only have the cheap tool try the above. Still not easy as things tend to slip sideways, sometimes the cheap cone tool is not flat where the ends catch the underside of the clamp and it will always pull to one side. This can bend the rod on the die. try to correct badly made tools by filing them flat. Once everything is flat and the two clamp sides are flush and you have a bit extra protruding than is recommended for a double flare then try to make a bubble in the flat side of the clamp after filing or sanding the end of the pipe flat and de-burring well. Also use some lubricant such as oil anti seize or brake fluid on the die as you tighten it down.
I used to hate making brake pipes. In actual fact the making was lovely, it was measuring the shitty old greasy pipes that the customers used to bring into us.
Great little video. Many thanks for sharing. Great tool you have there, doesn't it make the job more professional.
Absolutely
That's a nice flaring kit. Nice trick too, to measure up the pipe.
My early videos were basic and had poor video and sound - but I think the content was good - not sure if I could get away with doing it again in better quality?
Anyway - lead solder is the best for measuring pipes - and I have seen no one do it yet!
Mike
Hi Mike, thanks for another great informative video. We’re renovation a Series 3 109. About to replace a number of brake pipes, and also need to replace a number of stand off retaining clips. We’ve purchased replacement stand offs from Paddock but have no idea how they fit and retain. The clip doesn’t seem to have a retaining method, and it seems too large a diameter to just press into the chassis. You mention in this video you’ll explain how to fit them but I can’t seem to find it. Can you help please. Cheers John. Oops sorry just found it.
Do you use the male end then the female end to create a female end?
Yes! It is called a double flair - do not use a singe flare for female ends - too thin for the fitting
@@BritannicaRestorations thankyou, I'm doing my lines with someone experienced but I like to do my own research loving the channel, currently watching the 2.25 petrol
I recall trying to use steel brake pipe and a cheap flaring kit - frustration!
The horse shoe ones are for flaring copper pipe for HEVAC applications - hopeless on small steel pipes
Sir
Pls let me know names of different instruments u have used .....we want to buy and we live in india
The flaring tool is a Sykes Pickavant
Cunifer or copper ?
Cunifer
So what is a double flare? I've heard this is used on vehicles?
It is a flare where the walls are inverted onto itself making a stronger wall to work with
So many people are not explaining the difference between double and bubble. Male and female. The female end is simply the same as the american way where it seems all their ends are female but with a male nut as all their unions have a convex mating surface where in europe we usually have concave mating surfaces in the flexi's and in the unions.
Then we also have male to female pipes like the one you made. I just discover one as standard in my sprinter but the female end nuts are held by a block of plastic so you can turn the spanner on the male nut end this stops the female from spinning and twisting the pipe and means a female to female union with concave mating surfaces inside is not necessary. Just like the pipe you made.
For anyone who is stuck with the cheap tool the trick is to use the copper pipe, de-burr well and file or sand it flat. then use the clamping tool but to use the flat side of the tool and to leave a bit extra sticking out than most of the videos explain. This is because everyone is using the depth gauge (the flange on the side of the die) to set the depth but this is the depth when making a double flare in the concave side of the clamp.
Almost nobody explains all of the above and how to make a bubble end with the cheap tool.
Turns out that if you watch 5 hours of youtube videos on this subject you can work it out and see all the differences and why everyone is so confused.
Whats worrying is that so many people are making these tiny bubble ends because they are using the wrong settings and using the cheap tools incorrectly. You can usually get by but you will find they you might have to crank the nuts down super tight to crush the ends to make a seal and usually the nut is bottoming out by this point! It works but not well and IMO it's dangerous. For those who are struggling with good bubble ends and you only have the cheap tool try the above.
Still not easy as things tend to slip sideways, sometimes the cheap cone tool is not flat where the ends catch the underside of the clamp and it will always pull to one side. This can bend the rod on the die. try to correct badly made tools by filing them flat. Once everything is flat and the two clamp sides are flush and you have a bit extra protruding than is recommended for a double flare then try to make a bubble in the flat side of the clamp after filing or sanding the end of the pipe flat and de-burring well. Also use some lubricant such as oil anti seize or brake fluid on the die as you tighten it down.
I used to hate making brake pipes. In actual fact the making was lovely, it was measuring the shitty old greasy pipes that the customers used to bring into us.
At least they take them off - that is the crappy job! LOL!