Cool thanks Eric - I need to make cushions for my outside lounge sofa in the next couple of weeks. I'm in Australia though so i can't order stuff from Sailrite but i should be able to find local materials. Excellent 👍
Thanks again for a great instructional video! I was just wondering- when you discuss the seams for the boxing at first I probably would’ve just put it one long strip for the boxing but now I’m thinking if I were to make this that the seams at the corners would look better. In your experience do cushions that have angles like at the corners fit better with seams at the corners… it seems like they would be better fitting. But I just wanted to make sure. Thanks again for the great videos.
Great question. Do you pick a continuous boxing or seamed boxing? Here are the facts: Seamed Boxing Strips --- Separate sections of boxing on each side of the cushion which must be seamed together at each corner of the cushion. This selection saves on the overall fabric used, but also makes turning corners more difficult, since the corner seam builds up the bulk of fabric at the corner making it more difficult to sew around the corner when joining the boxing to plates. Continues Boxing Strip ---- One continuous strip of boxing which wraps around the left, front and right side of the cushion (this strip will include 4 extra inches in length). The two front corners of the boxing will have no seams, which makes an attractive cushion and also makes sewing the boxing to the plates at each corner much easier. This selection also includes a separate zipper plaque boxing piece which is used at the back of the cushion (this strip will include 10 extra inches in length). This zipper plaque must be sewn to the continuous boxing strip, usually a few inches away from the two back corners on the left and right side of the cushion.
@@SailriteDIY Thanks for the reply! I have not done this before that makes sense about the bulk with the seams at the corners. I look forward to using my Sailrite LSZ1 For more of these types of projects.
I may be thick but I am still confused by foam sizes and seam allowances. Am I right in thinking that the foam and top and bottom plates should be 1 inch oversize and the boxing the actual size of the thickness of the foam? Many thanks from a sad UK! Peter
We like to make the top and bottom plate to the same size as the foam, which is usually cut slightly larger than the desired finished size, by about 1/4" all around. Then we cut the boxing the thickness of the foam plus about 1/2" only, so if you have 3" foam I would cut my boxing to 3 1/2 inches. This results in a nice and tight cushion cover compressing the foam slightly. However, this is not a rule, it is simply what we think works best. If you want to do it differently feel free.
When to use piping and when not to? Also, how difficult is to make french sewings (like the ones you did at 12:50) on the boxing instead of piping? I've seen it on some boat cushions...
Piping is used mainly as an accent addition to a cushion. It does add some strength to the seam, but if you do not want the look of the piping, do not use it. If you do not use piping you can, but it is not required make a top stitch or a french seam.
interessantissima questa app peccato che gli ignoranti come me che già non sanno la lingua inglese poi con misura pollici è un vero problema..già non è facile usare la macchina non avendo confronto in italiano .. si youtube ha traduzione ma non è mai esatta
completely impressed with all things Sailrite....I've watched so many of your videos and I'm convinced this is the right machine for me. I'm new to upholstery and just learned to use a basic sewing machine...I've been studying the different models trying to decide which one is for me! Than you so much Sailrite!
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad to hear that our videos have been helpful to you. It means a lot to know that our content has made a positive impact on your experience with our products.
thank you for the tutorial it's really helpful, but i'm having a problem with the calculator when using the millimeters option. When I go to calculate, it changes it to CM so i'm a bit confused. My measurements are W-1082mm L-485mm foam thickness 76.2mm (3 inches). I tried to round up my measurements to the nearest inches and I see all it does is add 0.5 inches (12.7mm) onto my given measurements. So in theory if I just take my millimeter measurements and add 0.5 inches onto it, it should be correct.
my first order of fabric from sailrite should be on my door step when I get home! going to build me a new set of cushions for my airboat with the eversoft material! thank you for all the info all your videos are very helpful thank you
Thank you for this video and all the sailrite videos-I’m new to sewing and am interested in auto and boat upholstery and with out sailrite resources I would have a much tougher time !
I’m not an expert but I’ve been practicing on my sailrite machine and their foot is especially designed with a tunnel/slot to accommodate piping. I was practicing with a piece of fabric and piping at a seam and I had no problem channeling that piping through the tunnel on that sewing machine foot.
Thanks! We were inserting "Dry Fast Foam" and we used an Underlining fabric that has small holes on the bottom side... so we have excellent breathability and a foam that will dry out quickly if it gets wet. If we covered it in a silk film it would not perform as it was designed and instead of drying out, if water got to the foam, the silk film would prevent the Dry Fast Foam from breathing. When using Dry Fast Foam do not use silk film.
I have always used sew foam 1/4" or 1/2" for channeling. I typically pick the 1/2": www.sailrite.com/Fabric-Backed-1-2-Sew-Foam-58 Sorry, I have not used fiber sheets, so I have no idea how that would work.
Sailrite has the best DIY videos on the internet.
Cool thanks Eric - I need to make cushions for my outside lounge sofa in the next couple of weeks. I'm in Australia though so i can't order stuff from Sailrite but i should be able to find local materials. Excellent 👍
Thanks again for a great instructional video! I was just wondering- when you discuss the seams for the boxing at first I probably would’ve just put it one long strip for the boxing but now I’m thinking if I were to make this that the seams at the corners would look better. In your experience do cushions that have angles like at the corners fit better with seams at the corners… it seems like they would be better fitting. But I just wanted to make sure. Thanks again for the great videos.
Great question. Do you pick a continuous boxing or seamed boxing? Here are the facts:
Seamed Boxing Strips --- Separate sections of boxing on each side of the cushion which must be seamed together at each corner of the cushion. This selection saves on the overall fabric used, but also makes turning corners more difficult, since the corner seam builds up the bulk of fabric at the corner making it more difficult to sew around the corner when joining the boxing to plates.
Continues Boxing Strip ---- One continuous strip of boxing which wraps around the left, front and right side of the cushion (this strip will include 4 extra inches in length). The two front corners of the boxing will have no seams, which makes an attractive cushion and also makes sewing the boxing to the plates at each corner much easier. This selection also includes a separate zipper plaque boxing piece which is used at the back of the cushion (this strip will include 10 extra inches in length). This zipper plaque must be sewn to the continuous boxing strip, usually a few inches away from the two back corners on the left and right side of the cushion.
@@SailriteDIY Thanks for the reply! I have not done this before that makes sense about the bulk with the seams at the corners. I look forward to using my Sailrite LSZ1 For more of these types of projects.
You have a voice for radio you should do an art bell type radio podcast would be killer 😊
I may be thick but I am still confused by foam sizes and seam allowances. Am I right in thinking that the foam and top and bottom plates should be 1 inch oversize and the boxing the actual size of the thickness of the foam? Many thanks from a sad UK! Peter
We like to make the top and bottom plate to the same size as the foam, which is usually cut slightly larger than the desired finished size, by about 1/4" all around. Then we cut the boxing the thickness of the foam plus about 1/2" only, so if you have 3" foam I would cut my boxing to 3 1/2 inches. This results in a nice and tight cushion cover compressing the foam slightly. However, this is not a rule, it is simply what we think works best. If you want to do it differently feel free.
@@SailriteDIY Many thanks for the concise reply. I'll do it your way. (As Frank Sinatra may have said!)
When to use piping and when not to? Also, how difficult is to make french sewings (like the ones you did at 12:50) on the boxing instead of piping? I've seen it on some boat cushions...
Piping is used mainly as an accent addition to a cushion. It does add some strength to the seam, but if you do not want the look of the piping, do not use it. If you do not use piping you can, but it is not required make a top stitch or a french seam.
interessantissima questa app peccato che gli ignoranti come me che già non sanno la lingua inglese poi con misura pollici è un vero problema..già non è facile usare la macchina non avendo confronto in italiano .. si youtube ha traduzione ma non è mai esatta
completely impressed with all things Sailrite....I've watched so many of your videos and I'm convinced this is the right machine for me. I'm new to upholstery and just learned to use a basic sewing machine...I've been studying the different models trying to decide which one is for me! Than you so much Sailrite!
Glad you like our videos! Let us know if you have questions about our sewing machines.
Thank you for all your videos! They are very helpful. We purchased several products from your company and very happy with the results.
Thank you so much for your kind words! I'm glad to hear that our videos have been helpful to you. It means a lot to know that our content has made a positive impact on your experience with our products.
looking forward to watching this tutorial. Thanks for your continued uploading of these helpful videos.
The presentations of your "how to" are extremely satisfying
thank you for the tutorial it's really helpful, but i'm having a problem with the calculator when using the millimeters option. When I go to calculate, it changes it to CM so i'm a bit confused.
My measurements are W-1082mm L-485mm foam thickness 76.2mm (3 inches).
I tried to round up my measurements to the nearest inches and I see all it does is add 0.5 inches (12.7mm) onto my given measurements.
So in theory if I just take my millimeter measurements and add 0.5 inches onto it, it should be correct.
Great detailed guide. Well shot and presented
The calculator doesnt look the same as you are using?
We are constantly improving it, so it may not look the same.
my first order of fabric from sailrite should be on my door step when I get home! going to build me a new set of cushions for my airboat with the eversoft material! thank you for all the info all your videos are very helpful thank you
Thank you for this video and all the sailrite videos-I’m new to sewing and am interested in auto and boat upholstery and with out sailrite resources I would have a much tougher time !
We are glad to help. Thanks!!!
sharing your AMAZING talent!!!!
I want the channeling in red, I need about 2 yards.
What machine is the best for leather cusion (upholstery) .. do you need to change foot at all for sewing close to zipper or piping cord?
I’m not an expert but I’ve been practicing on my sailrite machine and their foot is especially designed with a tunnel/slot to accommodate piping. I was practicing with a piece of fabric and piping at a seam and I had no problem channeling that piping through the tunnel on that sewing machine foot.
Thanks Eric! Great video and tips. I'm just curious why you didn't use silk wrap over foam ?
Thanks! We were inserting "Dry Fast Foam" and we used an Underlining fabric that has small holes on the bottom side... so we have excellent breathability and a foam that will dry out quickly if it gets wet. If we covered it in a silk film it would not perform as it was designed and instead of drying out, if water got to the foam, the silk film would prevent the Dry Fast Foam from breathing. When using Dry Fast Foam do not use silk film.
So cool! You are a great teacher! Thank you!
Sir I want to do chanelling on velvet should I use foam 6 mm or fiber sheets what will give good look and better quality
I have always used sew foam 1/4" or 1/2" for channeling. I typically pick the 1/2": www.sailrite.com/Fabric-Backed-1-2-Sew-Foam-58 Sorry, I have not used fiber sheets, so I have no idea how that would work.
Sir how do I maintain a straight Stich it gets wavy by the time I reach the end of the cloth