Plumbing the Dream Reef Tank
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- Опубликовано: 15 окт 2020
- Stunning tank, epic sump - time to join the two together with some equally beautiful plumbing!
In this episode I will run you through the layout of the plumbing in my Dream Reef Tank build. I am sure you will agree that it is both beautiful and functional as it has had a lot of time and effort put into it to ensure the best possible result.
Sanking Flowcolour PVC was used exclusively throughout the entire build and has created another point of interest on my dream build. 
Животные
Here in the US we call them long turn 90’s , great job 👍👍✌️
Cool, thanks! Sounds more logical than crescent moon elbow :P
Man this is beyond awesome, no need for sump covers on this bad boy.
Haha thank you :)
The perfectionist in me loves how neat and tidy everything is. The only way it could be better is if the tank was for Discus! Haha
hahahaha nope, no discus here :P
Well thought out is a MASSIVE UNDERSTATEMENT!!! Simply Stunning! Right down to the wire runs for the LEDs. The small details make such a huge difference. Well Done!
Thanks so much mate :)
The planning and the execution of this pipe work is out of this world. Superb! What a beautiful set up you’ve made out of your DT. Thanks a lot for sharing. This is so inspiring and it truly develops our hobby. Thinking through most scenarios one could encounter and taking all that into consideration before starting, I can’t imagine the amount of hours you’ve put into this. Hats off to you. Brilliant.👏🏻
Thanks so much for the kind words, much appreciated!!
well done
Thank you!
You’re plumbing job is honestly the best I’ve ever seen .so well thought out , super clean and Looks great 👍👍👍 gonna be an awesome tank
Thanks so much!!
@@ParkersReef It truly is beautiful and well throughout using the best brand's possible.
Thanks for the info, you saved me from making a big mistake on setting up my tank.
i guess im asking randomly but does someone know a method to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly lost my password. I would appreciate any help you can give me.
@Avery Moses Instablaster ;)
Super neat plumbing job Sam a lot of industrial plant rooms don’t even look that good!
Thank you so much!
Nice job with the plumbing. Well thought-out and looks great!
Thank you so much, love your channel by the way 🙏🏻
You have every right to be super happy Sam. Looks great. Really like the situation with the 2 return pumps both for noise reduction and a fail. Neat plumbing. We will soon see some sea water in there.
You bet mate, not long now!!!
Great build
Thank you so much!
Big arse tank man!
you betcha!
Looking good 😌 can’t wait for the fill up and corals and fish to go in look forward to watching the growth off the tank 👍
Thanks mate!
This a work of art! 👍🏼
Thank you!
Very good job on the build overall. The plumbing looks complicated at first but is actually very simple once you explain it. I love those 90's. They just add an extra level of finish. I think you just started I new trend. Great job.
Thank you so much!!
Amazing!!! Some day. So many great things to have. Thank you!
Thank you!
Really great tank build series. Thanks for sharing with us. Makes me want to start a new build!
Hahaha good stuff, thanks for watching :)
Awesome video mate, you have a fantastic setup there. Thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching!
Looks amazing. Can't wait to see it used.
You bet, not long now!!
awesome build keep the videos coming...
Thank you so much!
Looks great - very efficient plumbing job looks like. Clean and tidy tends to stay that way!
Cheers mate!
Very well done 👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Great plumbing really inspiring. However I would like to note that I'm in the UK and I found two good solutions. Use a union that adapts from 1.5 inch to 50mm and use a 50 to 40 bushing or some 40mm socket connectors have an outside diamater of 1.5 inch.
That’d work nicely too :)
Very well thought out overall.
Learn from experience
thanks so much!
Would you consider putting another value on the horizontal line before the manifold? Depending on what reactors you will add, sometimes it takes time to dial in different flow rates for different reactor. When you need to do a water change closing that additional value would give you better back pressure for water to flow our the drain line as opposed to closing all the reactor valves.
Yeah could be a option!
Can't wait for the Next video!! There's a lot of thinking involved in the build, it's very impressive. Quite an inspiration. Hopefully the borders open up soon and you can get a jump on it.
Thank you so much 👌🏻
well done sam you appear to have allowed for all contingencies, looking forward to your aquascape
Thanks mate!
thank you for share all this with us im I fix a lot of problem in my tank after this video
Glad to hear 👍🏻
Looks Great ,Thanks again.
Thank you!!
Looks so good you and Dave did a great job
Thanks mate!
@@ParkersReef anytime mate
@@ParkersReef anytime mate
Great video, a passionate explanation and walk through of the plumbing, to this knockout 🥊 beast of a tank and sump Sam.
You’ll have to put the hours in at Daves shop to pay towards the bill. 😂🤣
👍🏴
Hahaha yeah, I’ll make it up with my second rate labour in store 😂😂😂
Very nice. I installed the same shadow overflow on my tank and had to make a few adjustments to the hight of the pipes in the overflow box to make it silent. It seemed to need the water to completely cover the bulkhead openings from the tank to overflow box to stop the water trickle sound. Other than that very happy with the product.
I have heard that also and are prepared to do that if need be, thanks for the input 👍🏻
Nice build and good job. What I didn't understand is why you crescent moon elbow for the draining lines as there are literally no pressure losses. I personally would have used them on the return line where you use many 90. I know you have an overkilling return pump so maybe it doesn't matter to you ^^.
Great question! You basically answered it yourself though, yes, the return line does have a couple of 90's in it as it is under pressure and does have a heap of reserve in the pump (currently running at 50% speed and pumping a huge amount of flow through the sump).
The overflow on the other hand is not under pressure and will be effected greatly by any restrictions. Therefore I wanted the smoothest run possible from the overflow to the sump to ensure it had a constant and smooth flow for ease of tuning.
Great tank tour - thank you!
What you are calling a crescent moon PVC pipe fitting is known as a long sweep 90°. It’s not clear to me if that’s a word you made up, crescent moon, or if that’s just the difference between the USA and Australia. I would be curious to know.
On thee end of the manifold at the right with the four taps I would have kept the horizontal pipe up size and only reduced at the taps to even up the pressure.
As much as possible I would have all returning water (i.e. from chiller, calcium, etc) return to the tank for maximizing circulation where possible.
Keep up the great videos!
Hey Walter, thanks for watching and commenting!
The crescent moon elbow is just what the manufacturer calls it - but agreed, it is a long sweep 90 :)
Yeah, returning to the tank is ideal for mixing, but not ideal for aesthetics - so you have to draw the line somewhere :)
Nice bro
Cheers :)
Nice plumbing. I hope that manifold on the end doesn't hinder installing the cabinetry
yeah looks like it will hit (I thought so too) but actually clears by a good inch, to inch and a half :)
This build is legendary, been going thru all your vids mentally writing everything down hahaha
Glad you are enjoying it! Thanks for watching :)
Thats a work of an engineer. Wonde how large companies like red sea and others dont put that levels of thinking in thier product
It’s a bloody nice outcome that’s for sure!
@@ParkersReef so u know im gonna copy all what you are doing in my new built but on smaller scale because i want to do two one 2000l for fish only and one 300l for sps dominant take
Perfect 👌🏻
Great work and achievement Sam, really an inspiration to other reefers. Though I just started in the hobby, already feeding the idea of a dream tank to my wife😜.
Hahaha thanks mate, appreciate it :)
@@ParkersReef constantly watching your videos. As I am staring at an empty tank at the movement😔. You are a legend. 😎
Haha I dunno about that mate, but I’m glad I can help out 👍🏻
@@ParkersReef thanks 🙏 a lot mate. I am moving houses next week will be in Touch through Facebook for some advice.
You bet mate 👍🏻
Wow, next level+! Think I'll reach out to you when I build my dream tank one day! ;-)
Hahaha anytime!
Great job Dave, a lot of thought and skill in putting that together
Thanks John, I think he’s proud of it as he should be :)
I see you reply to all your messages, i think thats up there with how cool these vids are, good job. I wanted to use the shadow overflow but wanted to know if there easy to tighten/fix/repair if pushed up against the wall tight. i can see you may have wheels/something to pull yours away from the wall to work on if needed but most dont and i dont so a little worried to use. just after an opinion, i do see the shadow doesnt run bulk heads down out of the external box which means no ever chance of leaks.
Hey, thanks for watching and taking the time to comment on my video :) Yes, I am a big believer on responding to each and every comment as I want this channel to be as interactive as possible!
That is correct, the shadow uses moulded outlets for the external box which eliminates (basically) the risk of leaking from that location. If I do need to access the overflow box, it is actually easier for me to get to it from above the tank. Another reason to have the lights motorised so I can raise them up for more access space :)
All that being said, the shadow has been around for a long time now and I've never heard of anyone having trouble with one after it is setup. LOTS of people saying they cannot get it running quietly (which I had little to no trouble with) so I am expecting a trouble free life from here on out :)
finally got here
Haha nice one
WOW!
Cheers!
You building a tank there mate lol 😂
All the very best
Jaison
haha you bet!
This is awesome!!! 👏🏽 I can’t wait until the water and rocks video, great work buddy! Have you ever seen people use rubber piping for their sump? I watch a German reefers videos and he’s just set up a tank with rubber piping which gives him and absolutely silent tank it’s pretty clever!
Yeah nice! I assume it is silicone otherwise it will leach chemicals?
@@ParkersReef silicone! You’re right, my bad. So what’s the next step? How come you don’t want to start the cycling process until the cabinetry is on may I ask?
Only because we need to move the tank a fair few times whilst fitting the cabinetry. Much easier to do without all the extra weight :)
@@ParkersReef absolutely!!! 🤟🏽 what’s the style of cabinetry you’re going for ? Are going for the gloss style doors or something a bit different?? It’s almost a shame to hide the sump of dreams 🤷🏽♂️
Sam that looks amazing! Seems almost a shame to hide it behind cabinetry. 🙂
Hahah thanks mate!
Sam, that's a crazy plumbing system. The glass aquarium doesn't sit directly on top of the aluminum frame, what is in between?
Many thanks! Yes there is a sheet of polystyrene and then a sheet of acrylic between the glass and aluminium stand. This is critical to ensure there are no pressure points on the glass
Hi, watching your vid's for some time now and using your posts as great referance for my own build, thanks. couple of question's
1. Can you let me know what bulkheads you used?
2. Will you be doing a dialing in vid of your calcium reactor - seen the unboxing etc and it looks like a weapon......looking at the same in the near future.
hey mate, thanks for reaching out! I used Sanking bulkheads for the returns, they are nice and slimline. The overflow has it's own bulkheads provided.
Yes, I have done one actually - check it out here:
ruclips.net/video/z8efvzkRVrk/видео.html
Parker two things may be three.Mark all those valves and make a legend (while you still have it clear in memory).What diameters is that that flexible tubing you were showing off and brand ,maybe a link?And,last,what do you do for work at University?My wife is a professor here at Bluegrass in Kentucky,USA. Stay well Parker family,Doc BC
You bet, they have been labelled now as you are spot on - I forgot about a dozen times whilst filming this video!
Looks great.
Just wondering where your going to keep the ladder that you'll need to feed the fish hahaha 😉
Can reach without any ladder :)
Great job Parker! Dream setup indeed ! May I ask why you went with a back overflow than an internal wier? Won't the internal wier be quiter? Or external quiter?
I went the external weir to not take up much space in the display. These can be dead silent, as long as you don’t try to flow crazy amounts of water through them - which I don’t plan on doing :)
Wont you suck the sump dry If you have to do an emergency water change via the manifold? And then you would just fill it back up? It that about 50% of your volume? I was mapping this all out for an upcoming build and this just popped to mind. Brilliantly done 👍
To do the 50% water change, I point my returns down low so that it back siphons more water into the sump
Wow
thanks for watching!
can't wait too see water in this :)
Me too :)
Hi this is SANKING CHINA.
Thank you for using our products!
Any problem any advise you can contact with me anytime!
A little advice, if you can have subtitles will be better to help foreigners watch your video^_^
thanks for watching! There should be auto generated subtitles available, but I don't think they do them in Chinese. Thanks for the support!
Brilliant bit of plumbing! Where is your is your return piping from the manifold?
That will come once we work out what will be ran off the manifold. Reactors all have bulkheads to return to the sump with :)
Nice plumbing job!! Where did you source the plumbing parts from?? Whats the flow rate of the pumps? How did you calculate drainage flow rate versus pressure flow and size of pipe??
I'm about to set up a freshwater sump on a 7x3x2 tank and any info would be great! Cheers
All from Keysborough Aquarium. They carry the full sanking range
I didn't hear any mention of plumbing the skimmer. Are you running that off the manifest or does it have its own pump?
it has it's own pump :)
Very neat plumbing job! I'm just confused why you used the "crescent moon" fittings on the drain pipes but used the normal elbows on the return lines. As far as I know, the elbows create much more turbulence than the "crescent moon" fittings. Wouldn't it make more sense to use those in the return lines to reduce the work load on the pumps and allow for better water flow?
Great question! I used the crescent moon on the drain for two reasons:
1. It’s gravity only
2. There was room to use them 😅
The return pumps are easily pushing the flow (running at 50% each) and the space around that area was much tighter
Hi Sam, do you mind sharing what size T-Nuts (i.e. M4, M5, M6 etc) you used to mount the PVC pipe clips and other accessories to the aluminium profile? Looking at doing something similar. Keep up the fantastic work!
It depends on the extrusion you used, mine were m5 and m6 though
@@ParkersReef Beauty! Thanks mate :)
Hello! Great video! I have been following your dream tank for quite a while and I am sort of planning my own as well. I have a few questions: Where do you order the sanking flowcolour parts (I live in Brisbane)? How are you able to move such a big tank back and forth (empty ofc) to access the back when plumbing? Also, is it difficult to change the filter roll on Hmahli sumps (I keep forgetting to staple a new roll onto the old one on my custom filter roll and its a pain in the ass to thread it through when it runs out)?
plumbing you can order from lots of places, but check out new life aquariums keysborough. When the tank is empty, its very easy to shuffle with two or even one person. Super easy to change the roll on the hmahli :)
Hi Sam, it looks like you used mostly standard ball valves in your setup. Is there a reason you didn't go with the true union ball valves instead?
Yeah mostly space. I have unions in other spots and these valves still have the ability to replace the mechanism without removal.
Have you considered placing some bleed valves off your water change system's export/input lines to avoid stagnant water making its way into the system after/when you use the setup again? Or are you just relying on exchanging the entire water change reservoir(s) volume into the sump each time you use it?
The majority of the time I just use the continuous water change lines (the 1/4 inch ones), the 20mm pvc is only for emergencies or for initial fill, so I’m not too fussed there :)
Amazing plumbing, where did you source the composite board from?
Thank you! The composite board came from the plastic place that supplied the drip tray. It’s crazy cool stuff!!
Hi there, hope you can see my comment 😊 for your auto top up you said that you used a double valve that when it's empty it fills it up and you don't need to worry about your ato. Can you give some more details please on what equipment you used?
Hey Nikolaos! It’s a latching relay with a couple float switches. It opens a solenoid when the reservoir is empty and switches off when the top float switch indicates it is full. It ensures the RODI turns on less frequently but for longer when it does (this helps the life span of the membrane)
Is the stand custom? Do you have vedio for stand or Was that off the shelf. The plumbing job is fantastic.
Sure is custom mate, here is the video:
ruclips.net/video/F4pgduPLoDU/видео.html
What did u use to attach the clips to the 80/20 frame and what kind of clips are those? Haven’t seen those before. Looks great
They’re just pipe clamps from sanking flowcolour. Usually you screw then into wood, but easy enough to pop a bolt and a tslot nut on it instead :)
You said the drain you plumbed in can do 50% water change. How big is the DT and the sump?
Display is around 1400l, sump is about 350L.
But if I wanted to do a large change (which is only in emergency) I’d push the loc-line in the return down so that it can back siphon a heap into the sump :)
@@ParkersReef That makes sense. Thx
Is that marine starboard that you have against the back of the stand?
sure is!
The plumbing looks great mate! Would you consider a kalk reactor or ozone reactor on one of the extra manifolds?
Kalk is in the plans, ozone is a chance too :)
@@ParkersReef this is going to be EPIC!!!
Hey mate, can you explain the quick water change system a little more? Like how are you able to empty the sump completely? I don't understand how it doesn't just empty the return pump chamber and then stop. Cheers!
Hey, yeah that is a fair point to cover - the sump design will only allow me to empty it so far before I need to manually shift water from chamber to chamber. But to be honest, what I usually do in that instance is switch off the return pump to allow it to siphon from the display and use the accessory pump to pump it out to the drain. That way it doesn't matter if the sump is bone dry, as I can take out a decent chunk of display water easily
@@ParkersReef thanks for the quick reply! How much water can you Syphon out of the tank by turning off the return pump before the waterline drops under the weir? It looks like an awesome system I want to get my head around it for my next tank build. I'd love to find a way of doing water changes without having to lug my bucket around! 👍
Shouldn't the full siphon be lower then that? I feel like its too low since i heard full siphons start at 5 or 6 inches deep.
potentially, will see once it's up and running. The inserts are not glued and I've left them at the longer end of their recommendations to ensure I can trim back :)
to many places to leak, whatever happened to clear aquarium tubing?
It grows algae
Hey Sam, what is the noise level on the Abyzz pumps? I have sicce sdcs at the moment but not keen on the motor hum. Trying for something as close to silent as possible....
Silent mate, absolutely silent
Had just one question on this beautiful setup - why no true union gate valve on the main siphon drain pipe to the sump? Valves all fail at some point and I’d be afraid that the main drain gate valve would be hard to replace if it failed.
Yeah that’s a fair question. With unions on the sump and below the overflow that piece can be removed if need be. Not easy to do, but can be done.
Also as I don’t plan on changing the flow of the return pump all that much, that gate valve should be set and forget.
But a good idea none the less and one that absolutely could have been implemented
Just had word that the sanking gate valves have replaceable inserts. Can be done with tap left in place :)
Wanna come build mine now? Looks so good mate!
Turned out bloody good hey!
Yeah looks so good! I’m glad you are building this tank just before I start mine. Top quality and giving me heaps of ideas
Hey sorry this is a three year old video but I watched it several times and I have a question. When you want to drain the sump to do a water change, from which compartment do you drain from? I am doing the same setup as you on a 200 gallon tank and I wanna use my return pump to a near by drain for water changes, but my issue is that I will only drain the return pump section of the sump, how do you use the sump to drain more volume? Lets say there's an emergency and you want to do a 50% water change. I also have two pumps I am using, one for manifold and one for returns.
Sorry for the spam of question, I am trying to learn from this beautiful reef tank.
I did read in a comment down that you point the return nozzle down and siphon more water, I am assuming that when you do that the pump is ON and already siphoning water out. But in a normal situation you only drain the return compartment of the sump? Is that enough for a 10% or 15% water change in your tank
Not a spam question at all! I rarely do manual water changes, but when I do, I switch off the return pump and let it syphon back into the sump. I then switch the valves to direct the accessory pump to the drain and leave it running.
This concurrently siphons down from the display to the sump and is then pumped out of the sump to the drain.
It potentially would only empty the return pump section if you just had one pump and were using that to empty the sump as well, but luckily with the luxury of two, you can perform both siphon and empty at the same time to achieve a larger change. Any other question - send them through!
I saw you glued the pipes, will you clean your system before you set it up for live fish? Or do you just let it be
na - PVC glue will be fine in the system for the cycle
Sam, where did you get the pvc pipe holders that attach to the t-slot from? I'm in the US and haven't been able to source them here.
Nevermind, I read through the other comments, I figured I wouldn't be the only one to ask. Great job so far. I've got all my t slot for my 500 ready to go
Yeah they’re a sanking flowcolour part :)
Hi Sam,
Any more photos or details regarding the flush drain in the belly pan. Want to come up with something similar to prevent floods. At this stage, thinking about putting a bulk head high up in the sump as an emergency overflow.
What info would you like to know? It’s a basic design, but works very well :)
@@ParkersReef Hey Sam,
Is your belly pan built into the cabinet - when you designed the cabinet, you made the base water tight?
The pipe which runs to the storm water, how did you prevent air/insects/pests entering the outside pipe and coming through the flush drain?
Do you think an overflow in the sump as an emergency to not flood the house is necessary?
I plan to have unlimited ATO (similar design to yours) and AWC using either the Autoaqua AWC or the Kamoer X2SR
My cabinet frame is extruded aluminium so I had the belly pan designed to fit inside that. The doors fit around that.
No overflow on the sump, although I could add one to direct the water to the drain.
Just some mesh on the end of the drain, haven’t had any issues yet :)
@@ParkersReef thanks Sam!
What did you use to seal the pipes that were loose at around 2:28?
that's PVC glue
where did you find the t-slot compatible plumbing clips?
They're just standard wall mount pipe clips but are attached to a t-slot nut
Ah okay!
So there’s a drilled hole under each clip?
Why not add a one way valve to the main returns instead of relying on the height of the loc line in the tank? Loc line is not always air tight.
One way valves are prone to failing in salt water applications. Loc-line not being air tight actually helps the siphon break
what size flex tubing did you connect the a200 with?
yeah good question, can't remember off the top of my head - but it was the same size that the pump outlet was - no adaptors. So perhaps 40mm?
Heyy Parker is that 50mm pressure pvc pipe or 50mm non pressure pipe?
pressure mate
What's the name of the composite board you are using on the back.
I cant remember... It is a plastic fused board, waterproof, easy to cut and a really nice finish
what are those 2 reinforcement steel pipes for?
For the motorised light frame
Can you link me to where you ordered those 90 degree bends.
Sure! All plumbing I got from my local fish shop (Deer Park Aquarium) and they use Sanking Flowcolour fittings
Are those 2" drains coming from the over flow reduced to 1.5"?
I’d have to double check the piping, but yes I think 40mm
Any rhyme or reason to why you did that? I'm guessing it came that way from the manufacturer..
@bigmamalovesprimo is more than enough sizing for the flow
Sam,
Any reason why you didn’t put RFG nozzles on the return lines?
Yeah I have some here to try, I like the quality of the genuine loc-line duckbills more though :)
@@ParkersReef not that I see water flow being a problem in this beast with those tunzes!!!!!!
Haha you bet
Hey Sam, hope you get this message. I have a question about your return/manifold pump set up. I have an A400 for my return and another much smaller DC pump for my manifold. The A400 is such a beast that I am running it at less than 200w and its maxing out my 2" drain pipe. I'm thinking about ditching the second DC pump and using the A400 for my manifold as well to save space in the sump. I'm certain the A400 can push enough water for the manifold as well but am wondering if I'm not considering any safety or performance issues other than the lack of a ready backup if it goes out. (I have a plan for that)
The A400 would absolutely be up to it. I don't see any downsides to it. Just ensure you have plenty of taps and unions so that you can isolate your manifold and/or remove and replace your manifold easily
Thank you! I’ll plumb it up next weekend!
Hi, ¿why put a single nozzle and not dual nozzle en each corner?, greetings…
No need for extra outlets that don’t look good
@@ParkersReef thanks
anyone know what the final bill was for the plumbing from Dave?
it certainly adds up, but I was lucky in that Dave provided all of his labour and expertise for free. Sometimes it is a matter of who you know, not what you know :P
Where did you get the Sanking plumbing parts from if I may ask? Have been looking online and struggling to find a retailer...
New life aquarium in keysborough mate. But if you’re not near them, check out bespoke aquariums website. They have them all online :)
@@ParkersReef Thank you - shopping will now commence :)
Exciting times!
Any info about that composite board?
Ah yeah, I’ll find out now!
Hi. Can you provide details on the composite board.
Yes I have had a few ask about it, it's amazing stuff! It is Signex pvc foam white board. A really bizzare combination of plastic and wood
@@ParkersReef I'm building my tank atm. So Hopefully use it in mine. Thanks
Good stuff!
First in keen to follow along with build
congrats on being first! Thanks for watching
Hi Sam, what size pipe is the pipe going out to your chiller?
3/4 from memory :)
Thanks Sam, gather you haven't had any issues with the flow from the sump out to the UV and chiller and back with that size?@@ParkersReef
@joenguyen4569 no issues
Bro....thats an fload of overhead. You like science huh?
A fload of overhead? lol lost me there sorry 😅