He put the recommended amount of oil in the crankcase I guess he just wanted to see where it’s at I never check the oil after I change it I know my truck takes 10 quarts of oil I do check it every other fill up at the gas station witch is once a week for me .
@@stevennunez6013 I hear ya. If it shows somethings in there than ur safe. Just a way to double check urself. There's no secret area for oil to hide at. If u know u drained it and than in-between draining and than running to do an errand or if u have a bad memory u just like to double check the oil being in cause that's the most important. Plus maybe he planned on checking it on the ramps every time so he planned on checking it the first time or two on ramps and than on the ground tomorrow. Once u know where it'll sit on the ramps and flat on the ground cool than ur set.
1:20 With that engine being both turbocharged and having GDI, I definitely wouldn't go past 5k mile oil change intervals either especially on just a "synthetic blend" oil. An advanced Full synthetic oil is all I would trust to go beyond that mileage.
Correct anything turbo and GDI are maintenance hounds. In my experience, so long as you take proper care they typically will not be garage queens. However there are still exceptions for some.
I agree with changing the oil after 1000 miles, using a synthetic blend, but only for the first couple oil changes while the metal surfaces are marrying to each other. After that I would strictly run a full synthetic.
I’d still rather do the oil change myself. I like the piece of mind knowing how much care went into every step, getting exactly the oil and filter I paid for and that the skid plates, etc are put back as designed instead of bent, discarded or misaligned. One added disadvantage with those skid plates is how much heavier they’ll be when full of snow/ice and mud if you drive more than paved roads.
Amen ....I do all my Trucks Semis and tractors my self just for the same reason, some times I get mad at myself that I do it but at the same time u know what u did
Good reason to have it done at the dealer for about 70 bucks. You are suppose to check the oil level when's sitting on the the ground after you have run the engine for a couple of minutes to fill the filter.
When it comes to anything simple with cars like changing the oil, there always has to be that one moment where something feels the need to not come off or go back on.
Thanks for the video. I'm picking up my Maverick next week. Mine does not have the FX4 package, so oil changes should be easier. I've used ramps for many years and after I retired I treated myself to a 10,000 pound hoist, making oil changes MUCH easier for my old bones.
@@84imreplica Very well earned, and I bet used a lot too. I'd love to have one, even if it just sat on my carport, which is why I've been looking at the 4 post lifts, they don't require having to be bolted or concreted in like other lift setups. I don't have a shop, just a carport, so the 4 post would be great, and you could just park on it when its not being used. Definitely will be one in my near future as well, I'm not that old, but would rather keep what mobility I do have while I'm somewhat young enough to be smart enough to do so LOL.
Just did my first change. Video was a big help. Oil filter took a large set of pliers to get loose not sure who thought putting an electrical component next to the filter was a good idea.
When I bought my new 2010 Ford Focus, it had been sitting on a dealer lot for six to seven months with only 49 miles. I had the oil changed at around 225 total miles. Then I drove about 1000 more miles before the oil was changed a second time. Then my third oil change was after the next 3000 miles.
@@theejoeylee I bought it new in July 2010 and still own it...only about 56K miles now. One headlamp has burned out but I have not replaced it yet due to the high replacement cost. Always garaged when not driven and looks like a three year old car. All the fluids and filters are changed according to FoMoCo recommendations. Nothing but normal routine maintenance. Severely underrated car by media who thinks that only the Japanese build good compact cars.
I heard a good tip for removing the oil filter with no mess. Once it is cracked loose, slip a 1 quart sandwich bag over the filter and then spin the filter off the rest of the way. The bag catches the oil and keeps everything clean. I tried it and it works great!
Thanks for your effort. I am waiting for my Maverick Lariat since June. I don't work on my vehicles anymore. I will be serviced at the Ford dealer when ever it arrives.
That's what I do, I have the dealer do the initial break in services after that I do them myself...only vehicle that was 100% dealer maintained was my 2008 Toyota Tundra because it had an extended 100k mile warranty on it and I didn't have to pay for the services so I let them deal with it LOL.
The Oil Filter Wrench you want is a Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool available from Amazon. That other Wrench is a piece of junk. Also get a Six Point 15mm Socket or Wrench, as the drain plugs tend to be soft. I do my own oil changes on all my Fords, I always keep Oil Ford Filters, Oil in Stock and I have Spare Drain Plugs, in Case I run into a Torn Drain Plug Gasket. For the Larger Ford Oil Filters, the Lisle Tool is a 63250. Also I have Tekton Oil Filter Pliers Part Number 5866, in case I run into a problem. One thing he did that is wrong and dangerous, is he didn’t Chock the back wheels.
Very informative. I get my Maverick delivered in 2 weeks and I'll be taking it to the dealer for the 1st oil change, just so i don't deal with the lock-tight issue.
The problem is, the oil change was done wrong. You didn't need to remove that large skid plate. You just needed to remove the smaller front piece and the black plastic piece on the larger plate. That large plate was never meant to be taken on and off, hence the threadlocker.
So, the large skid plate on Maverick FX4 was never meant to be removed by a Ford Tech to change the oil? Well, I seen it removed at a Ford dealer today on my truck. You'd think that there would be training on this, but if true, apparently not. Where would a person find the Ford equivalent of a Haynes Manual to detail the Ford best practice? What should be done now to mitigate the removal and restore to factory condition? Remove and re-treat threads on?
We’ve all been this guy before. My favourite is the trip to the store only to mcgyver the damn filter off. Your whiskey glass derserved to be that much fuller.
I believe you are changing oil on the 2.0 liter turbo 250hp engine, correct? The 2.0 liter ecoboost 250hp non hybrid uses full synthetic 5W30 because it has a turbo, not 5W20
#1. NEXT OIL CHANGE WILL GO MUCH FASTER #2. FRAM ULTRA SYNTHETIC OIL FILTER - has grip tape on it *no need for tools - rated for 20k intervals (not saying go 20k with a maverick) - several RUclips videos on it broken down into it's constituent parts Could also go to the hardware store and replace those locktight bolts with new ones Very helpful video. I'm seriously considering ordering an fx4 xlt very soon. Now I know beforehand what I'll be dealing with each 5k oil change interval... Also will most likely let the dealership do the first oil change for me then I'll continue to do the rest. Thank you for this video and all your effort. 👍
I have to recommend getting the tremor package. Totally worth the $3k upgrade, unless you need/want the 4k towing. ( which idk y but I guess you cant have 4k towing on the Tremor?)
Not looking forward to the first oil change on my Maverick. It is AWD but does not have the metal skidplates. I'm probably going to dremel the plastic carefully and cut access holes so I can access the filter and drainplug without removing skidplates each time. The aftermarket could really hit a homerun by making a skidplate with access for this.
I've been doing this change with two 2017 Ford Escapes. One with the 1.5L and the other w/2.0L. The 2.0L filter is much more accessible than the 1.5l. The "bottle cap" oil filter wrench will work If you put it on the filter before inserting it into the socket wrench extender. Once it's on the filter all the way, then get that square head of the extender into the hole of the bottle cap wrench just enough to spin the filter.
ALWAYS a good idea to re-check the oil after start-up. Shut off, wait a minute or two and re-check. Vehicle must be on level ground for accurate reading. It's just good practice and gives you piece of mind.
I appreciate what you've done, but you should think about why those bolts had glue. It's because you were not meant to remove them for normal maintenance. Please look at what is directly above that black cover you wrote off as a vent. I believe you'll find it is really the access to the drain plug.
Good video. I had a 2015 Fusion with basically the same 2.0 Echoboost engine. I loved that engine but you really need to baby it. You want to use full synthetic. I changed my oil every 6K after my initial 1K oil change. Those engines get really hot and are under a lot of stress. It is worth the money to spend a little more for full synthetic. Also expect to clean the intake valves at around 60K to 75K. Don't wait until you have problems with the valves before you get them cleaned. I also ran premium. I think it gets you another 8 horse power. You could feel the difference. I traded my Fusion in with 85K. It was a solid engine. I really loved the car but I had a Kia Soul I could flat tow behind my RV. I am now looking at getting a hybrid Maverick so I can tow it behind my RV.
It is an EXCELLENT idea to change first oil early as your new engine has some metal from machining & assembly within PLUS the first few hundred miles your engine will experience accelerated wear as the new engine breaks in. It is not adviseable to put synthetic oil into a new engine until maybe after 3000 miles or else the new engine will not break in properly. I would also be wary of synth blend.
Thanks for the video. I've always done my own oil changes (I'm . . . uh . . . frugal . . .). Those skid plates are a pain. I forsee a lot of people cutting holes in those for drain plug and filter access. Controversial, but I've always replaced my drain plug with a ball valve (Amazon). Much more convenient and a little less mess.
Thanks for the heads-up on the skid plate. I ordered my 2.0L AWD Maverick this week so I am going to start lifting weights now so I can crack those bolts. :-)
@@angelgjr1999 That's what most people do on the Toyota Tundras and Toyota Tacomas that didn't have the access plate in the skid plate for oil/filter changes....piss poor design.
They really should put the oil filter on top. That way you could use an extractor and and be done in 5 mins without lifting or removing a dozen fasteners
Those Ford oil filters for 4 cylinder engines are hard to get off if it was put on super tight. I have the same oil cap socket and put a thin cut sheet of grip material for cabinets around the inside of the socket so it grabs the filter. I am waiting for my Lariat FX4 Lux Tow but seeing this is helpful to be ready for it. Great video!
I have an adjustable oil filter wrench kind of like a very large set of slip joint pliers, it works great, even for hard to get to oil filters...I quit using those cup type filter wrenches a long time ago, all they do is slip the filter casings are so cheaply made anymore that those socket type filter wrenches can't grip them, all they do is slip and round over the base of the filter. May as well just stab it with a screw driver at that point and be done with it HAHA!!
I change the oil on my mom's Focus, the oil filter is the same one and in the same spot. I use the plastic oil filter adapter. The metal one flexes just enough to pop off the oil filter, especially when trying to get the filter off.
My wife got the bronco sport with the same engine and that same silly bash plate. Oddly i put hers on the ramps but her drain plug was on the front of the oil pan. Still drained but took forever. Ty for the great video!
The next oil and filter on the same vehicle will go much easier. Your efforts are appreciated. Let us know the brand of both those nice black plastic ramps and the green oil drain pan..
Don't feel bad for the couple of mishaps in the video. I actually watched a video before I did mine, but kinda skipped through it, my main concern was the skid plate. Also I traded 2015 ram 1500 for this truck, so I was used to just crawling under my truck and changing the oil. My first time with this truck took about 1hr 30 mins. I noticed the oil filter, and me being the person I am have always just gave the filter a good hand crank. I struggled very hard for about 10 minutes to break that "factory sealed" oil filter off, thought I was going to have to buy a socket adapter. I asked the dealership a couple of times about a break in oil change and they insisted it wasn't needed, and my sales guy I've know for a while used to be head of the service department so I half heartedly took his word for it, by that I mean I changed the oil at 40% oil life instead of 70% like I was planning on. Dirtiest oil I've drained in my life, but I didn't see any flakes in it. My personal thoughts are that ford put the filter in a great spot, and also put the drain pan in a great spot, I was really impressed by the OEM drain bolt, didn't expect and nice beefy drain bolt, with a nice sealing gasket on it coming from a truck made in Mexico. I really just wish they would had used like 5 bolts to secure the skid plate instead of in my non-FX4 skid plate 14 T27 screws. Also read the comment section, I too thought this engine FOR SURE would use 5-20, however I read my owners manual right before I went to buy oil and was shocked to see 5-30. Also you're probably correct, not sure what my dealer charges for oil changes, but I'd say it is probably like 75$ for this truck, My oil from the parts store was 35.99 for a 5 quart jug and 10.99 for the ford filter. I've just changed my oil my entire life and can't stand the thought of driving somewhere and waiting, even if it's 20minutes
Nice shop floor! Re: filter...three jaw claw on a 6” extension is the shiznit. I always spray down skid plate bolts with penetrating oil ps. As flat rate tech I get paid .3 for oil change lol
After working all day and then coming home doing this, and then having to go run to the store and sit in traffic etc. etc. yeah it turned out to be a pretty long day haha
I only use oil filter sockets, and sometimes a filter fits a little loose... I put a few layers of Duct tape inside the oil filter socket, then take a small hammer, and tap it up higher into the filter, if I can, and then it grips the filter enough to break it loose... It also helps if you try to remember to turn it the right direction to break the seal... :) Also would never use any type of ramp, jack, etc., without Jack Stands under there to make it more safe... Those ramps are what - plastic???? Wow... :)
You either have to use a metal filter cap wrench or Lisle tools makes a tri side cam lock wrench that cinches down on the filter. The plastic cap wrenches slip. Thats been my experience in the past.
Nice video - thank you. As an FYI after an oil change, you can start the truck in flood start mode for the first 20/30 seconds to prime the oil system.
Wow that oil is dark! I did my first change on my 2020 3.5 F150 at 1650 miles and it was a lot cleaner… I do the first one at50 engine hours ,then every 125 hrs or so which is usually 3500 miles. Good job doing it early …I use pennzoil ultra platinum .
There's an oil filter wrench it kind of looks like channel locks. Those are the best ones they virtually work on every type of filter. Only one time when I was working that I see it didn't work on one car a Toyota or something
I going to order a Maverick with the hybrid engine, but I think it has a similar cover. This is a great commercial for taking it to the dealer. I used to change my own oil, but my local Ford dealer has a great deal if I bring my own oil and filter (I used Mobil 1 for all of my cars).
They love when people bring in the expensive oil/filters, they just put them on the shelf, and charge you the same price for the out of their barrel generic oil and dollar store filter....keep an eye on them, they'll certainly start pulling stuff like that on you once they think you aren't paying attention to any of the work they're doing. ALWAYS check up on service and repair work that a dealer does, oftentimes its less than stellar and most times they use the cheapest parts and fluids they can get.
Consider making your own ramps from collapse proof 2x10 boards. Instructions are on RUclips with full dimensions. I don’t trust those plastic imported ramps.
One would assume that this plate might only be found on the SX4 package, so removal on Mavericks without this package is not necessary. The hybrid model may not have it..
They all have a skid plate of some kind. The one on the hybrid is plastic, so you get to have fun with a dozen push pull button fittings. Buy Lowes out. After seeing this, I’m pretty sure Ford didn’t include access doors/panels for the hybrid, either.
I, too, believe in draining the oil at 1,000-1,500 mile mark! The “Finance Person” at the Ford Dealership stated that the first oil change should be done at the 5,000 mile mark!
Looks like there is a cut out and plastic piece for the pulling the oil plug to drain and if you just removed the front portion of the skid plate (for the filter) it’s less bolts and less loctite. Maybe?
Why does everyone keep mentioning the 5 -20 w synthetic oil blend? That is what ford recommends in their manuals. That’s what I’ve put in my Ford Escape for 155,000 miles and it’s ran perfect since the day I bought it new.
I've never seen any ecoboost engine call for 5w-20...you might want to use 5w-30. I can't believe they would have spec'd it for 5/20. Edit: I saw it on your cap it says 5w-30. These ecoboosts aren't easy on oil, next change I would switch.
2.0 Maverick Manual calls for 5w 30. Using the wrong specification of oil will void warranty. With these engines using proper oil is very important due to the nature of the engine. 0w 30 is factory approved for very cold weather.
The oil filter is that tight from the factory because most oil filters say to turn ¾ of a turn after the gasket makes contact. It can't be tightened by hand ¾, have to use a wrench or oil filter pliers.
No, I can tighten my oil filters 3/4 past contact by hand. I put new oil on the filter gasket and clean the mating surface really well, and never have an issue..
Doesn't the 2.0 liter Eco take 5W-30? Also, if you have the FX4 package, you can just leave the plates off if you want to make your oil changes easier. Just a thought. Good video! Thanks for sharing this with us.
Ford needs to make some modifications to the skid plate. They should have a separate access panel for the filter and drain that you remove instead of the entire skid plate. Great video. If I can get one I'll let Ford do the first oil change.
Shit Toyota's had the same issue with the Tundra and Tacoma skid plates for years, most people just take a grinder and cut access holes in the skid plates, or just remove the stupid things altogether.
Dude when I pulled a skid plate off I'm not putting it back on. I don't know on these Mavericks but on some of the other Fords they are baking the PTU oil. Probably the transmission too I don't know. I'm not putting that skid plate back on
I really enjoyed your “how to” video. It was very informative. I also live in Michigan and have a 2023 Maverick Hybrid on order. Who knows if and when I’ll get it. Keep up with the great videos. Thanks!
Was told by my dealer the synthetic blend was to ke e p cost of ownership down on paper that's minimum, requirements, syth ethics if your gonna try to keep it for the loan length, aka 8 years lol
The oil change on this Maverick wouldn't have taken much time at all if he was using a regular 3/8" drive impact gun instead of trying to get bolts out with a 1/4" drive screw gun with a 3/8" adapter LOL. First thing I'd do is throw that skid plate in the trash, 100% useless, if you actually came down on a rock that rock is going through the skid plate that thing is extremely thin sheet metal, leave the thing off there. The only issue I have with my 2008 Ford Explorer oil/filter change is I need to put it on ramps or jack it up and put it on jack stands because it sits too low for me to crawl under it LOL...yep it has the 4.6L V8 in it as well. My 1987 Ford Ranger and 1988 Ford Bronco 2 are easy to change oil on, Bronco 2 is slightly easier I can squeeze under it all the way, the Ranger sits a bit lower so its a little bit of a stretch but not too bad. Explorer has 17" wheels, Ranger has 14" wheels, and the Ranger actually has slightly more ground clearance...you'd think with larger wheels that Explorer should have more than enough room, nope. Like today's trucks with 20" wheels that have less ground clearance than my Ranger.
@@mikef7986 I worked at Planet Ford of Humble Tx, Midas Complete Auto Care of Woodlands Tx, and Perform BPM services on semi tractors at U.S.Xpress. I don't rush at all, however, when you have been doing it for a while, it is second nature. The Ford Maverick is based on the Ford Escape and the Ford Bronco Sport, very easy to do. Keep in mind we have lifts, drain cans, power tools, oil guns, and selves of parts that make it a 10 minute job. I change the oil on a Freightliner with 46qts in roughly 20 minutes.
@@cesarpalmos8235 I eagerly await your videos. My owners manual did not spell out that city driving doesn’t qualify for 10k intervals on oil, never changing CVT transmission, radiator and inverter coolant fluids. As a result my 2010 Toyota Prius purchased new now has 185k miles with blown head gasket due to acidic coolant eating engine and failing CVT.
Ford suggests 5w-30 not that 5w-20 is that different I just thought it was odd they suggest an oil type that ford motorcraft doesn’t make or at least is hard to find
Any vehicle can be maintained by its owner, its just how dirty do you wanna get in some cases LOL. The Maverick's service looks pretty straight forward and easy to get to the filter and drain plug...anyone that thinks that filter is hard to get to, come try getting to the filter on my 87 Ranger and 88 Bronco 2.
I just did the first oil change on my maverick fx4, noticed metal shavings in the oil, but did you notice the factory oil greenish? mine was, I thought it was just your pan but my oil was greenish as well. same bolt on mine was super tight, oil change was pretty easy for me, metal plate is pretty heavy.
A blend? I use full synthetic oil even the owners manual says use full synthetic, not only would I recommend full syn I would also make sure its gf6 certified. full syn gf6 is better for turbos DIG engines. I agree that an early oil change is important and I did my first oil change at 4100km so like 2500 miles, i like to let the break in oil do its job but not leave it in for 7k. i also change my oil at 5,000km regardless.
You can buy what you want, in my Explorer I was running synthetic till the last oil change, but my Ranger and Bronco 2 always get conventional because the oil change intervals on them are 3k, the Explorer was 5k but I been doing it every 3k as well because I don't drive very far often enough to get the extra couple thousand miles out of the oil, vehicle doesn't warm up enough so I cut the oil change interval down and went back to conventional on it this last oil change...its cheaper and can't see any gain paying more for oil that gets drained out the same as the conventional LOL.
Sorry that you had such a bad experience with that! The way they put cars together these days makes it harder to work on them in your garage. It's almost like they are designed in such a way that you have to take them to the dealer or a shop to get serviced.
WHILE you were under there, did you give your PTU a good look? It almost looked as if it had a drain plug in the bottom. FORD is notorious for building a light duty PTU with NO drain plug for service. If yours DID have a drain plug it is a new development. Maybe for the AWD trucks only? Dunno. If yours does have a drain plug you will want to change its lube @ 30,000mi when you change the rear diff & the trans flush & change. That it, IF you want this truck to last forever. IF your PTU does not have a drain plug, when it fails (and it will) DORMAN builds a beefier PTU which runs cooler AND comes with a drain plug for $850, WAY less than Ford wants for their weakling one. !
Thank you for this. I got the same exact Maverick 3 days ago. I too believe in that early break-in oil change. After having dealer techs ruin the underbody panel screw holes on my last Ford, I plan to do them all myself. (Damn kids!) That way I know it was done well. Thanks again and subscribed!
I think it's time to buy an new impact driver. I used to change my own oil, then I found out it was a complete wasted time and a whole lot cheaper to take it somewhere and get done.
My actual impact driver was dead, so I had to make do with what I had to fit the timeframe of getting this video out. I always take my oil to get done but for content sake this is my one and only time doing it on this haha
You should take it off the ramps for checking the oil level.
He put the recommended amount of oil in the crankcase I guess he just wanted to see where it’s at
I never check the oil after I change it I know my truck takes 10 quarts of oil
I do check it every other fill up at the gas station witch is once a week for me .
@@stevennunez6013 I hear ya. If it shows somethings in there than ur safe. Just a way to double check urself. There's no secret area for oil to hide at. If u know u drained it and than in-between draining and than running to do an errand or if u have a bad memory u just like to double check the oil being in cause that's the most important. Plus maybe he planned on checking it on the ramps every time so he planned on checking it the first time or two on ramps and than on the ground tomorrow. Once u know where it'll sit on the ramps and flat on the ground cool than ur set.
6 quarts of 5W30!
1:20 With that engine being both turbocharged and having GDI,
I definitely wouldn't go past 5k mile oil change intervals either especially on just a "synthetic blend" oil. An advanced Full synthetic oil is all I would trust to go beyond that mileage.
Ditto with my experience with the 2.0 ecoboost, also noticed he used 5w20, most I know use 5w30 due to "wash down" with fuel
@@petebrown5243 same. They also used to take 6 quarts.
@@petebrown5243 use 0w-16 it'll stop wash down.
Correct anything turbo and GDI are maintenance hounds. In my experience, so long as you take proper care they typically will not be garage queens. However there are still exceptions for some.
@@dethpig420 my maintenance queen is also a garage hound
I agree with changing the oil after 1000 miles, using a synthetic blend, but only for the first couple oil changes while the metal surfaces are marrying to each other. After that I would strictly run a full synthetic.
For some reason Ford says blend oil.. in most of there engines. However using full synthetic oil will not harm.
I’d still rather do the oil change myself.
I like the piece of mind knowing how much care went into every step, getting exactly the oil and filter I paid for and that the skid plates, etc are put back as designed instead of bent, discarded or misaligned.
One added disadvantage with those skid plates is how much heavier they’ll be when full of snow/ice and mud if you drive more than paved roads.
Amen ....I do all my Trucks Semis and tractors my self just for the same reason, some times I get mad at myself that I do it but at the same time u know what u did
Aren’t the skids a net benefit when you consider the underbody protection from the unpaved roads?
what you don't like it when they make the executive decision to take your skid plates and leave them off without telling you ?
@@c1h2r3i4s56987 Another Ford dealership story?
Good reason to have it done at the dealer for about 70 bucks. You are suppose to check the oil level when's sitting on the the ground after you have run the engine for a couple of minutes to fill the filter.
Crank it in clear flood mode to fill the filter
When it comes to anything simple with cars like changing the oil, there always has to be that one moment where something feels the need to not come off or go back on.
Thanks for the video. I'm picking up my Maverick next week. Mine does not have the FX4 package, so oil changes should be easier.
I've used ramps for many years and after I retired I treated myself to a 10,000 pound hoist, making oil changes MUCH easier for my old bones.
how long did you wait for delivery? i just ordered
@@zakstang4062 I bought mine off the dealer's lot.
That's what I want to get as well is a 4 post vehicle lift.
@@wildbill23c I have a 10,000 pound two post lift. It was a gift to myself when I retired. Much easier on my old back.
@@84imreplica Very well earned, and I bet used a lot too. I'd love to have one, even if it just sat on my carport, which is why I've been looking at the 4 post lifts, they don't require having to be bolted or concreted in like other lift setups. I don't have a shop, just a carport, so the 4 post would be great, and you could just park on it when its not being used. Definitely will be one in my near future as well, I'm not that old, but would rather keep what mobility I do have while I'm somewhat young enough to be smart enough to do so LOL.
You just helped me figure out what the rattle is after getting my oil changed at Walmart. The skid plate is loose! Thanks!!!
Just did my first change. Video was a big help. Oil filter took a large set of pliers to get loose not sure who thought putting an electrical component next to the filter was a good idea.
When I bought my new 2010 Ford Focus, it had been sitting on a dealer lot for six to seven months with only 49 miles. I had the oil changed at around 225 total miles. Then I drove about 1000 more miles before the oil was changed a second time. Then my third oil change was after the next 3000 miles.
How long did you own it...any issues?
@@theejoeylee I bought it new in July 2010 and still own it...only about 56K miles now. One headlamp has burned out but I have not replaced it yet due to the high replacement cost. Always garaged when not driven and looks like a three year old car. All the fluids and filters are changed according to FoMoCo recommendations. Nothing but normal routine maintenance. Severely underrated car by media who thinks that only the Japanese build good compact cars.
@@SpockvsMcCoy Nice. I have a 8th gen civic, it's never Even had a check engine light, it's at 115,000 miles uses no oil.
@@theejoeylee I assume you have the oil changed frequently.
@@SpockvsMcCoy Mobil 1 every 5k
I heard a good tip for removing the oil filter with no mess. Once it is cracked loose, slip a 1 quart sandwich bag over the filter and then spin the filter off the rest of the way. The bag catches the oil and keeps everything clean. I tried it and it works great!
Thanks for your effort. I am waiting for my Maverick Lariat since June. I don't work on my vehicles anymore. I will be serviced at the Ford dealer when ever it arrives.
Thanks for the video. I have an FX4 on the way and after seeing this I’ll happily let the dealership change the oil. At least the first time around
That's what I do, I have the dealer do the initial break in services after that I do them myself...only vehicle that was 100% dealer maintained was my 2008 Toyota Tundra because it had an extended 100k mile warranty on it and I didn't have to pay for the services so I let them deal with it LOL.
The Oil Filter Wrench you want is a Lisle 63600 Oil Filter Tool available from Amazon. That other Wrench is a piece of junk. Also get a Six Point 15mm Socket or Wrench, as the drain plugs tend to be soft. I do my own oil changes on all my Fords, I always keep Oil Ford Filters, Oil in Stock and I have Spare Drain Plugs, in Case I run into a Torn Drain Plug Gasket. For the Larger Ford Oil Filters, the Lisle Tool is a 63250. Also I have Tekton Oil Filter Pliers Part Number 5866, in case I run into a problem. One thing he did that is wrong and dangerous, is he didn’t Chock the back wheels.
Very informative. I get my Maverick delivered in 2 weeks and I'll be taking it to the dealer for the 1st oil change, just so i don't deal with the lock-tight issue.
The problem is, the oil change was done wrong. You didn't need to remove that large skid plate. You just needed to remove the smaller front piece and the black plastic piece on the larger plate. That large plate was never meant to be taken on and off, hence the threadlocker.
That would make sense. Good information. Thanks.
How do you remove the drain plug then genius
@@BlakesCars2 once you remove the black plastic you have full access to the oil plug dummy
So, the large skid plate on Maverick FX4 was never meant to be removed by a Ford Tech to change the oil? Well, I seen it removed at a Ford dealer today on my truck. You'd think that there would be training on this, but if true, apparently not. Where would a person find the Ford equivalent of a Haynes Manual to detail the Ford best practice? What should be done now to mitigate the removal and restore to factory condition? Remove and re-treat threads on?
We’ve all been this guy before. My favourite is the trip to the store only to mcgyver the damn filter off. Your whiskey glass derserved to be that much fuller.
Yup. That moment when you go from “are you f-cking kidding me?!” To “f-ck it. It’s on.” with vise-grips or channel wrenches.
I believe you are changing oil on the 2.0 liter turbo 250hp engine, correct? The 2.0 liter ecoboost 250hp non hybrid uses full synthetic 5W30 because it has a turbo, not 5W20
#1. NEXT OIL CHANGE WILL GO MUCH FASTER
#2. FRAM ULTRA SYNTHETIC OIL FILTER
- has grip tape on it
*no need for tools
- rated for 20k intervals
(not saying go 20k with a maverick)
- several RUclips videos on it broken down into it's constituent parts
Could also go to the hardware store and replace those locktight bolts with new ones
Very helpful video. I'm seriously considering ordering an fx4 xlt very soon. Now I know beforehand what I'll be dealing with each 5k oil change interval... Also will most likely let the dealership do the first oil change for me then I'll continue to do the rest.
Thank you for this video and all your effort. 👍
I have to recommend getting the tremor package. Totally worth the $3k upgrade, unless you need/want the 4k towing. ( which idk y but I guess you cant have 4k towing on the Tremor?)
Not looking forward to the first oil change on my Maverick. It is AWD but does not have the metal skidplates. I'm probably going to dremel the plastic carefully and cut access holes so I can access the filter and drainplug without removing skidplates each time. The aftermarket could really hit a homerun by making a skidplate with access for this.
How did the first one go?
I've been doing this change with two 2017 Ford Escapes. One with the 1.5L and the other w/2.0L. The 2.0L filter is much more accessible than the 1.5l. The "bottle cap" oil filter wrench will work If you put it on the filter before inserting it into the socket wrench extender. Once it's on the filter all the way, then get that square head of the extender into the hole of the bottle cap wrench just enough to spin the filter.
ALWAYS a good idea to re-check the oil after start-up. Shut off, wait a minute or two and re-check. Vehicle must be on level ground for accurate reading. It's just good practice and gives you piece of mind.
If you think that's a difficult oil change you need to give up on oil changes. Looked super easy.
Wow that interface looks great on the instrument cluster.
Thank you for the walk through.
I appreciate what you've done, but you should think about why those bolts had glue. It's because you were not meant to remove them for normal maintenance. Please look at what is directly above that black cover you wrote off as a vent. I believe you'll find it is really the access to the drain plug.
Good video. I had a 2015 Fusion with basically the same 2.0 Echoboost engine. I loved that engine but you really need to baby it. You want to use full synthetic. I changed my oil every 6K after my initial 1K oil change. Those engines get really hot and are under a lot of stress. It is worth the money to spend a little more for full synthetic. Also expect to clean the intake valves at around 60K to 75K. Don't wait until you have problems with the valves before you get them cleaned. I also ran premium. I think it gets you another 8 horse power. You could feel the difference. I traded my Fusion in with 85K. It was a solid engine. I really loved the car but I had a Kia Soul I could flat tow behind my RV. I am now looking at getting a hybrid Maverick so I can tow it behind my RV.
It's really not the same engine, ford boss talks about this and he;s a master tec.
It is an EXCELLENT idea to change first oil early as your new engine has some metal from machining & assembly within PLUS the first few hundred miles your engine will experience accelerated wear as the new engine breaks in.
It is not adviseable to put synthetic oil into a new engine until maybe after 3000 miles or else the new engine will not break in properly. I would also be wary of synth blend.
I had no problem changing my oil; I don’t use weak impact tools. I’m old school and use simple ratchet wrenches
Thanks for the video. I've always done my own oil changes (I'm . . . uh . . . frugal . . .). Those skid plates are a pain. I forsee a lot of people cutting holes in those for drain plug and filter access. Controversial, but I've always replaced my drain plug with a ball valve (Amazon). Much more convenient and a little less mess.
I was thinking the same while watching this. Would definitely take some of the hassle out of changing the oil.
Used a drain plug for years and I don't think I'll be going back.
I use my points and get free oil and service
Been changing my own oil for years and would rather drill holes than put a ball valve.. seems like a good place for a leak when driving over snow.
Thanks for the heads-up on the skid plate. I ordered my 2.0L AWD Maverick this week so I am going to start lifting weights now so I can crack those bolts. :-)
You get the fx4 ? It’s the only version with metal skid plate
A 2' breaker bar should do it no problem.
Just drill a hole for the drain plug
@@angelgjr1999 That's what most people do on the Toyota Tundras and Toyota Tacomas that didn't have the access plate in the skid plate for oil/filter changes....piss poor design.
They really should put the oil filter on top. That way you could use an extractor and and be done in 5 mins without lifting or removing a dozen fasteners
Counterclockwise on that oil wrench
Yeah, he was going clockwise on it and wondering why it would not remove those bolts... :)
@@frandanco6289 hahahhahaahahahaa
Those Ford oil filters for 4 cylinder engines are hard to get off if it was put on super tight. I have the same oil cap socket and put a thin cut sheet of grip material for cabinets around the inside of the socket so it grabs the filter. I am waiting for my Lariat FX4 Lux Tow but seeing this is helpful to be ready for it. Great video!
I have an adjustable oil filter wrench kind of like a very large set of slip joint pliers, it works great, even for hard to get to oil filters...I quit using those cup type filter wrenches a long time ago, all they do is slip the filter casings are so cheaply made anymore that those socket type filter wrenches can't grip them, all they do is slip and round over the base of the filter. May as well just stab it with a screw driver at that point and be done with it HAHA!!
I change the oil on my mom's Focus, the oil filter is the same one and in the same spot. I use the plastic oil filter adapter. The metal one flexes just enough to pop off the oil filter, especially when trying to get the filter off.
My wife got the bronco sport with the same engine and that same silly bash plate. Oddly i put hers on the ramps but her drain plug was on the front of the oil pan. Still drained but took forever. Ty for the great video!
The next oil and filter on the same vehicle will go much easier.
Your efforts are appreciated.
Let us know the brand of both those nice black plastic ramps and the green oil drain pan..
Updated for ya!
Don't feel bad for the couple of mishaps in the video. I actually watched a video before I did mine, but kinda skipped through it, my main concern was the skid plate. Also I traded 2015 ram 1500 for this truck, so I was used to just crawling under my truck and changing the oil. My first time with this truck took about 1hr 30 mins. I noticed the oil filter, and me being the person I am have always just gave the filter a good hand crank. I struggled very hard for about 10 minutes to break that "factory sealed" oil filter off, thought I was going to have to buy a socket adapter.
I asked the dealership a couple of times about a break in oil change and they insisted it wasn't needed, and my sales guy I've know for a while used to be head of the service department so I half heartedly took his word for it, by that I mean I changed the oil at 40% oil life instead of 70% like I was planning on. Dirtiest oil I've drained in my life, but I didn't see any flakes in it. My personal thoughts are that ford put the filter in a great spot, and also put the drain pan in a great spot, I was really impressed by the OEM drain bolt, didn't expect and nice beefy drain bolt, with a nice sealing gasket on it coming from a truck made in Mexico. I really just wish they would had used like 5 bolts to secure the skid plate instead of in my non-FX4 skid plate 14 T27 screws.
Also read the comment section, I too thought this engine FOR SURE would use 5-20, however I read my owners manual right before I went to buy oil and was shocked to see 5-30. Also you're probably correct, not sure what my dealer charges for oil changes, but I'd say it is probably like 75$ for this truck, My oil from the parts store was 35.99 for a 5 quart jug and 10.99 for the ford filter. I've just changed my oil my entire life and can't stand the thought of driving somewhere and waiting, even if it's 20minutes
Nice shop floor!
Re: filter...three jaw claw on a 6” extension is the shiznit. I always spray down skid plate bolts with penetrating oil
ps. As flat rate tech I get paid .3 for oil change lol
Dang man, your production is getting better every vid! Keep grinding
Dude, you looked a bit defeated at the end. I think you kicked its ass! Great video. Not rehearsed like most of the others. This one will be helpful.
After working all day and then coming home doing this, and then having to go run to the store and sit in traffic etc. etc. yeah it turned out to be a pretty long day haha
5w20? Hmmm, all the EcoBoost I’ve seen are 5w30
I only use oil filter sockets, and sometimes a filter fits a little loose... I put a few layers of Duct tape inside the oil filter socket, then take a small hammer, and tap it up higher into the filter, if I can, and then it grips the filter enough to break it loose... It also helps if you try to remember to turn it the right direction to break the seal... :) Also would never use any type of ramp, jack, etc., without Jack Stands under there to make it more safe... Those ramps are what - plastic???? Wow... :)
what oil filter socket size did you use to remove your oil filter?
You either have to use a metal filter cap wrench or Lisle tools makes a tri side cam lock wrench that cinches down on the filter. The plastic cap wrenches slip. Thats been my experience in the past.
Nice video - thank you. As an FYI after an oil change, you can start the truck in flood start mode for the first 20/30 seconds to prime the oil system.
flood start, Is that what it is when you hold down the gass and it just cranks?
@@richardparnell8402 Yes it is
Wow that oil is dark! I did my first change on my 2020 3.5 F150 at 1650 miles and it was a lot cleaner… I do the first one at50 engine hours ,then every 125 hrs or so which is usually 3500 miles. Good job doing it early …I use pennzoil ultra platinum .
5W30 full synthetic, not 5W20 semi synthetic. . The 2.5 isn't a turbo engine,thats a 5W20 engine.. The 2.0 is turbo charger.
@@TheSaintshockey03?
In my Ford Focus, I change my oil every 3-4 thousand miles. Absolutely no later then 4.5 thousand miles.
It’s dusty here in Texas.
you have bigger problems if dust is getting into your motor oil.
Great video. If that is the 2.0L it requires 5w30. Maybe you know that, just throwing that out there because I saw the 5w20 on your bench.
There's an oil filter wrench it kind of looks like channel locks. Those are the best ones they virtually work on every type of filter. Only one time when I was working that I see it didn't work on one car a Toyota or something
I going to order a Maverick with the hybrid engine, but I think it has a similar cover. This is a great commercial for taking it to the dealer. I used to change my own oil, but my local Ford dealer has a great deal if I bring my own oil and filter (I used Mobil 1 for all of my cars).
They love when people bring in the expensive oil/filters, they just put them on the shelf, and charge you the same price for the out of their barrel generic oil and dollar store filter....keep an eye on them, they'll certainly start pulling stuff like that on you once they think you aren't paying attention to any of the work they're doing. ALWAYS check up on service and repair work that a dealer does, oftentimes its less than stellar and most times they use the cheapest parts and fluids they can get.
Consider making your own ramps from collapse proof 2x10 boards. Instructions are on RUclips with full dimensions. I don’t trust those plastic imported ramps.
I used a plier type wrench for the oil filter and that worked well.
lock tite is used on any fastener that they feel is critical also on gas tank bolts
One would assume that this plate might only be found on the SX4 package, so removal on Mavericks without this package is not necessary. The hybrid model may not have it..
They all have a skid plate of some kind. The one on the hybrid is plastic, so you get to have fun with a dozen push pull button fittings. Buy Lowes out. After seeing this, I’m pretty sure Ford didn’t include access doors/panels for the hybrid, either.
i got the FX4 as well, i was worried about this. Ill just take it to the dealership and let them handle it.
Ford engineers are celebrating that the difficulty of changing the oil is just enough to make dealerships service department a little more money! Lol
I, too, believe in draining the oil at 1,000-1,500 mile mark!
The “Finance Person” at the Ford Dealership stated that the first oil change should be done at the 5,000 mile mark!
did i miss something on the oil plug....... righty tighty lefty loosy..... ? or was it my eyes deceiving me
Thanks for letting me know mine is going to Ford till the warranty runs out lol
Why loctie it? Corrosion protection. It is good practice you dont want it come loose. Might be good idea cut an access when warrenty expired
Looks like there is a cut out and plastic piece for the pulling the oil plug to drain and if you just removed the front portion of the skid plate (for the filter) it’s less bolts and less loctite. Maybe?
If you watched the video you will see where I mention that’s an air port to cool the PTU unit.
@@mrmeeseeks7356 that’s what I thought too. I have a similar setup on my Ridgeline when I installed the skid plate. Not exactly the same but similar.
Now we know why your friendly Ford dealer now charges 100 bucks for an oil change!
2:50 into the video. Dude. Get a couple of jack stands under there. Trusting those ramps alone is not suggested. I’ve seen them crack and collapse.
I believe the ecoboost 2.0L takes 5w-30 not 5w-20.
Yup says it right there on the oil cap.
Very informative, now I know what to expect when I get mine w FX4 package.
WalMart sells the Motorcraft oil in 5 quart container, along with the Ford filters.
Why does everyone keep mentioning the 5 -20 w synthetic oil blend? That is what ford recommends in their manuals. That’s what I’ve put in my Ford Escape for 155,000 miles and it’s ran perfect since the day I bought it new.
If you change the oil on your own, does Ford invalidate the vehicle warranty?
I've never seen any ecoboost engine call for 5w-20...you might want to use 5w-30. I can't believe they would have spec'd it for 5/20.
Edit: I saw it on your cap it says 5w-30. These ecoboosts aren't easy on oil, next change I would switch.
And weirdly, I've had a Lincoln dealership use 5w-20 on my 3.0 ecoboost, despite the manual and fill cap specifying 5w-30
@@not_a_samsquamsh6777 I had them do that on my Focus ST and F150.
My Mk4 Ford Focus 1.0 EcoBoost engine calls for the 5W-20 oil.
2.0 Maverick Manual calls for 5w 30. Using the wrong specification of oil will void warranty. With these engines using proper oil is very important due to the nature of the engine. 0w 30 is factory approved for very cold weather.
Have a 2017 escape 1.5 calls for 5w-20. Maverick does specify 5w-30 for 2.0
The oil filter is that tight from the factory because most oil filters say to turn ¾ of a turn after the gasket makes contact. It can't be tightened by hand ¾, have to use a wrench or oil filter pliers.
No, I can tighten my oil filters 3/4 past contact by hand. I put new oil on the filter gasket and clean the mating surface really well, and never have an issue..
So channel locks are the recommended tool for filter removal ...I always used a foot long flat head screw driver .
should we go to dealer for the first oil change? will affect negatively if we do all oil change by DIY?
Doesn't the 2.0 liter Eco take 5W-30? Also, if you have the FX4 package, you can just leave the plates off if you want to make your oil changes easier. Just a thought. Good video! Thanks for sharing this with us.
Ford needs to make some modifications to the skid plate. They should have a separate access panel for the filter and drain that you remove instead of the entire skid plate. Great video. If I can get one I'll let Ford do the first oil change.
Shit Toyota's had the same issue with the Tundra and Tacoma skid plates for years, most people just take a grinder and cut access holes in the skid plates, or just remove the stupid things altogether.
Dude when I pulled a skid plate off I'm not putting it back on. I don't know on these Mavericks but on some of the other Fords they are baking the PTU oil. Probably the transmission too I don't know. I'm not putting that skid plate back on
Great video, thanks for showing us what the diy oil change will look like.
Apparently it's a two piece skid plate that doesn't need to separated hence the blue loctite.
I really enjoyed your “how to” video. It was very informative. I also live in Michigan and have a 2023 Maverick Hybrid on order. Who knows if and when I’ll get it. Keep up with the great videos. Thanks!
Try using an impact wrench rather than an impact driver.
I think he had it selected on tight by mistake. You don't need an impact wrench for that type of light duty job.
Was told by my dealer the synthetic blend was to ke e p cost of ownership down on paper that's minimum, requirements, syth ethics if your gonna try to keep it for the loan length, aka 8 years lol
Ford really Built the truck properly. Ford Tough.
Nice how it has underbody protection, very impressive for a cheap car. Although I can do an oil change in half the time in my old school 4.6 :)
The oil change on this Maverick wouldn't have taken much time at all if he was using a regular 3/8" drive impact gun instead of trying to get bolts out with a 1/4" drive screw gun with a 3/8" adapter LOL. First thing I'd do is throw that skid plate in the trash, 100% useless, if you actually came down on a rock that rock is going through the skid plate that thing is extremely thin sheet metal, leave the thing off there.
The only issue I have with my 2008 Ford Explorer oil/filter change is I need to put it on ramps or jack it up and put it on jack stands because it sits too low for me to crawl under it LOL...yep it has the 4.6L V8 in it as well. My 1987 Ford Ranger and 1988 Ford Bronco 2 are easy to change oil on, Bronco 2 is slightly easier I can squeeze under it all the way, the Ranger sits a bit lower so its a little bit of a stretch but not too bad. Explorer has 17" wheels, Ranger has 14" wheels, and the Ranger actually has slightly more ground clearance...you'd think with larger wheels that Explorer should have more than enough room, nope. Like today's trucks with 20" wheels that have less ground clearance than my Ranger.
This pil change is easy...i could probably get it done in 10 minutes...like he said, he doesnt work on cars much...it shows
@@cesarpalmos8235 You don't know what you're talking about. Making a video while changing oil takes time. This is not a race.
@@mikef7986 I worked at Planet Ford of Humble Tx, Midas Complete Auto Care of Woodlands Tx, and Perform BPM services on semi tractors at U.S.Xpress. I don't rush at all, however, when you have been doing it for a while, it is second nature. The Ford Maverick is based on the Ford Escape and the Ford Bronco Sport, very easy to do. Keep in mind we have lifts, drain cans, power tools, oil guns, and selves of parts that make it a 10 minute job. I change the oil on a Freightliner with 46qts in roughly 20 minutes.
@@cesarpalmos8235 I eagerly await your videos. My owners manual did not spell out that city driving doesn’t qualify for 10k intervals on oil, never changing CVT transmission, radiator and inverter coolant fluids. As a result my 2010 Toyota Prius purchased new now has 185k miles with blown head gasket due to acidic coolant eating engine and failing CVT.
Nice video. Next show how to change out all fluids such as transmission and break.
I’m watching this on the toilet thanks
I’ve stabbed a filter with a screwdriver and twisted it off that way before. Not recommended but it worked.
Ford suggests 5w-30 not that 5w-20 is that different I just thought it was odd they suggest an oil type that ford motorcraft doesn’t make or at least is hard to find
Thanks for the video. I plan on getting this truck and nice to see what I’m getting into. I may end up riveting a hinged access door
That’s a good idea
I paid for Fords VIP service on my Maverick Lariat FX4. Free oil changes for as long as I have it, they can deal with the skid plates 😁
U didn't put oil on the filter wring??
That was very helpful. Thanks for sharing! I love changing my own oil and I would hate removing that metal plate every time. No fx4 package for me!
Just cut the plate
Using a 1/2 drive to remove the skid plate bolts for the first time will make effort much better than using the 3/8 drive. FYI.
Great video I'm thing of buy a maverick. I wanted to see if I can maintain it my self. Thank you for the video.
Any vehicle can be maintained by its owner, its just how dirty do you wanna get in some cases LOL. The Maverick's service looks pretty straight forward and easy to get to the filter and drain plug...anyone that thinks that filter is hard to get to, come try getting to the filter on my 87 Ranger and 88 Bronco 2.
I just did the first oil change on my maverick fx4, noticed metal shavings in the oil, but did you notice the factory oil greenish? mine was, I thought it was just your pan but my oil was greenish as well. same bolt on mine was super tight, oil change was pretty easy for me, metal plate is pretty heavy.
The green is from the assembly lube.
A blend? I use full synthetic oil even the owners manual says use full synthetic, not only would I recommend full syn I would also make sure its gf6 certified. full syn gf6 is better for turbos DIG engines. I agree that an early oil change is important and I did my first oil change at 4100km so like 2500 miles, i like to let the break in oil do its job but not leave it in for 7k. i also change my oil at 5,000km regardless.
Why in the hell does Ford mess with “synthetic blend” oil?! Just spend another $5 and get a decent full synthetic oil.
You can buy what you want, in my Explorer I was running synthetic till the last oil change, but my Ranger and Bronco 2 always get conventional because the oil change intervals on them are 3k, the Explorer was 5k but I been doing it every 3k as well because I don't drive very far often enough to get the extra couple thousand miles out of the oil, vehicle doesn't warm up enough so I cut the oil change interval down and went back to conventional on it this last oil change...its cheaper and can't see any gain paying more for oil that gets drained out the same as the conventional LOL.
After looking at your video I'm definitely going to a Ford stealership and I will pay them to do the job !
Good job Blake.
Sorry that you had such a bad experience with that! The way they put cars together these days makes it harder to work on them in your garage. It's almost like they are designed in such a way that you have to take them to the dealer or a shop to get serviced.
Thanks for sharing. Love this video. I’m planning on getting a Maverick soon
WHILE you were under there, did you give your PTU a good look? It almost looked as if it had a drain plug in the bottom.
FORD is notorious for building a light duty PTU with NO drain plug for service. If yours DID have a drain plug it is a new
development. Maybe for the AWD trucks only? Dunno. If yours does have a drain plug you will want to change its lube @
30,000mi when you change the rear diff & the trans flush & change. That it, IF you want this truck to last forever.
IF your PTU does not have a drain plug, when it fails (and it will) DORMAN builds a beefier PTU which runs cooler
AND comes with a drain plug for $850, WAY less than Ford wants for their weakling one.
!
Thank you for this. I got the same exact Maverick 3 days ago. I too believe in that early break-in oil change. After having dealer techs ruin the underbody panel screw holes on my last Ford, I plan to do them all myself. (Damn kids!) That way I know it was done well. Thanks again and subscribed!
I think it's time to buy an new impact driver. I used to change my own oil, then I found out it was a complete wasted time and a whole lot cheaper to take it somewhere and get done.
My actual impact driver was dead, so I had to make do with what I had to fit the timeframe of getting this video out. I always take my oil to get done but for content sake this is my one and only time doing it on this haha
@@BlakesCars2 A battery pack 4 amps or over also helps.
I used to change mine till I stepped on the pan and sprayed hot oil all over. Still change it on my bikes though.
Chalk the back tire for safety bro!
Chock.....