Glad you made this vid. Changed out my seals on my wr450 last week, but they started seeping from the start. Didn’t realize I’d put the oil seals in upside down. Just finished rebuilding them. No leakage.
Great video if your already in there I’d be replacing the seals and bushes regardless if there damaged there inexpensive And it doesn’t take much to have a leaking fork seal I’d hate to get it all back together and it starts leaking straight away or a week later just replace them and your good for another 100 hours
Hey, great vid! A question.. What if I accidentaly poured the oil into the center of fork? When I placed the push rod most of the oil came out of course.. And I thought it probably doesnt mattet if theres oil or no. So.. Does it matter? Thanks!
I am not sure what would happened or if it will cause damage. I'm sorry as I do not have any experience with that. I guess I would try and get as much of the oil out buy holding it upside down. You might to check with a suspension guy and maybe he can tell you how to handle it. Sorry, not much help.
First off, I really appreciate this guide! You and your son did a great job. Just had some questions regarding oil height and oil volume. My manual calls for 295 cubic centimeters of oil, but the extent of that adjustment ranges from 260-365. That being said... #1: How do you translate oil level to oil volume (or vis versa)? - I saw you guys just poured in oil until it came close to the top, then sucked the rest out with a straw. #2: For example, if I want to put in the manual amount (295cc) in my forks, how many mm would that be from the top? Or if I wanted to go 350cc (recommended by RaceTech), how many mm would that be with the tool? I heard that unless you strip the fork completely and dry it, not all the oil gets removed. So I'm hoping that the oil height tool used in this video is a reliable way to get the proper levels/volume. Sorry if these are rookie questions, I'm brand new to suspension servicing.
@@RMAGarage 2020 model. Yeah my manual only tells the fluid volume cc. Not an air gap. I’ll just be sure to bleed properly and fill the right amount in!
The service manual mentions extracting the air from the air chamber completely before removing cap bolts. Did you do that? With the little nipple indent at the bottom of the forks?
We have the bleeder screw tight when assembling the fork. Once the fork is 100% installed and after the first ride, I loosen the bleeder valve and bleed the air from the fork and then reinstall the screw. Thanks for the question.
The short answer is no, I did not notice a difference in the performance of the forks. That being said, I am not a racer nor able to detect small differences in set up. All I know is that the original oil I removed and the oil I installed seem to be the same. I know they are different, but the difference is very small. All the research I did said to go with 5w and all would be good. So far so good. Thanks for the comment.
LOL. I guess my initial thought was way to serious. I actually saw a video of a guy using a old plastic tube that was a tube of caulking that was cleaned out and slit down the side (ruclips.net/video/GzMQnSIo0NE/видео.html).
From the research I did, This is not the same fork as the yz250x. I would try the video below (link). This may be similar to yours. ruclips.net/video/eru0iV8sU8Y/видео.html
Did you put your oil seal in backwards?? Our spring for the oil seal goes up towards the top of suspension and the dust seal spring points down towards the axel....I could swear u out the oil seal upside down.....and when you put the spring in tube....hold a wrench under the damper pvc and twist the spring up and you don't have to catch the damper inside the spring....little trick
Thanks for the comment. I love the tip with the fork spring. I will try that next time. Our fork seal has two springs, one the inside and one on the side of the "Scrapper" portion of the fork seal. The "Scrapper" faces down.
I have reviewed the front fork exploded parts drawing on our suppliers website and compared our bike and your bike. They are very similar but not exact. I thinks it is similar enough to go for it. Just remember to take photos and write down the order of parts removed and there orientation. Also, i would try and find a manual online if you do not have one. That is where you will get the best and complete info. If you get stuck for confused, don't force it. It would be better to get professional help then to break the forks. Happy wrenching!
@@RMAGarage Thank you so much my friend.. of course, if you want and have the time, you would help me a lot.. I don't have the manuals and I am a little afraid of the amount of oil..
Ok, sorry for the long delay. I think I found the service manual online and it is free. See Link Below: www.manualslib.com/manual/1199896/Yamaha-Wr250r.html?page=3#manual the manual if for the WR250R and WR250X. The amount of oil is listed on page 4-46. It says 20.73 US oz. If you email me at dirtbikedad48@gmail.com, I might be able to email you the manual because I was able to download it. Give this a try.
We did not remove the dampening valve. I am going to eventually buy the tool to remove it and do a full service. This video was just for the fork seals.
I have been toiling over this answer because there is not fluid amount. I was trying to come up with a way to give you the fluid amount but I would have to take them apart again. The fluid level is a measurement from the top of the tube as the video describes. If you are wonder how much to buy, 2 quarts will do both legs with some left over. thanks for the question.
@@apekshasamyal You can eliminate the grease if you want to. The reason why we use the grease is because we were riding is heavy mud and the grease seamed to help with keeping the grit from getting to the inner seal.
@@RMAGarage have tried, it just jumps out, was servicing the forks after replacing the head stock bearings and it was easier to seat the bearing race's than to try to get the dust seal on, I am going to order some more, I think I have ether been sent the wrong year (but every other part fit) or defective ones. Cheers for the reply 👍
![Gunna - HIM ALL ALONG [Official Visualizer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/HiCxoDeo0hc/mqdefault.jpg)
finally someone who explains this in detail very clear, thanks a lot!!!
Glad it was helpful!
I know! I’ve watched probably 20 videos and not one was properly detailed like this one. So glad to have found this.
@@chadrides914 This is why we made the video. It is also to remember when we go and do it again for ourselves. LOL.
This is the best comprehensive video on fork service I have found. Thank you!
Glad it was helpful!
Watched a ton of these fork seal vids, this one the one i will follow when i do mine. Thanks!
You're Welcome. Thanks for Watching.
Glad you made this vid. Changed out my seals on my wr450 last week, but they started seeping from the start. Didn’t realize I’d put the oil seals in upside down. Just finished rebuilding them. No leakage.
Glad it work out for you.
You guys are the bomb for posting this! I feel tons better about doing it myself. Thanks!!
Thank you for the kind words.
Probably the best video I have found on doing these! Will be doing a shock and fork spring change with new oil and seals on my 2018 yz450f
Thanks for the comment.
The best detailed video I've seen for complete disassembling of the Yamaha KYB fork. Are the current Yamaha KYB forks basically the same?
They current forks are not the same. The fork I am working on is a off of a 2013 WR250F. The new Fork is a dual chamber.
Excellent job Ryan
Thanks.
Magnificent explanation and how to. Thanks guys.
Thank you for the comment.
The Best Jobs off all i saw!
Thanks for the Comment.
Great video. Not a slam bam explanation.
Thanks!
Wonderfully detailed explanation. I will use this video when I attempt same
Thanks.
Great video if your already in there I’d be replacing the seals and bushes regardless if there damaged there inexpensive
And it doesn’t take much to have a leaking fork seal I’d hate to get it all back together and it starts leaking straight away or a week later just replace them and your good for another 100 hours
Good Point. Thanks for the comment.
Hey, great vid! A question.. What if I accidentaly poured the oil into the center of fork? When I placed the push rod most of the oil came out of course.. And I thought it probably doesnt mattet if theres oil or no. So.. Does it matter?
Thanks!
I am not sure what would happened or if it will cause damage. I'm sorry as I do not have any experience with that. I guess I would try and get as much of the oil out buy holding it upside down. You might to check with a suspension guy and maybe he can tell you how to handle it. Sorry, not much help.
Great video, will forks on 2007 WR450 be the same in your video?
I am not sure if it is the same fork.
Great thorough vid. Great job
Glad you liked it!
Could you explain to me why we should not pour oil in the center where the dipstick is located, thank you
Not sure exactly, that is what the directions so do do.
I just put a small screw drive thru the spring at the bottle and turn the spring like a screw until you can grab the damper
Great Idea!
First off, I really appreciate this guide! You and your son did a great job. Just had some questions regarding oil height and oil volume. My manual calls for 295 cubic centimeters of oil, but the extent of that adjustment ranges from 260-365. That being said...
#1: How do you translate oil level to oil volume (or vis versa)?
- I saw you guys just poured in oil until it came close to the top, then sucked the rest out with a straw.
#2: For example, if I want to put in the manual amount (295cc) in my forks, how many mm would that be from the top? Or if I wanted to go 350cc (recommended by RaceTech), how many mm would that be with the tool?
I heard that unless you strip the fork completely and dry it, not all the oil gets removed. So I'm hoping that the oil height tool used in this video is a reliable way to get the proper levels/volume. Sorry if these are rookie questions, I'm brand new to suspension servicing.
Can you tell us what year your WR250F is? Ours is a 2013 WR250F and the factory manual we have indicates a fluid "Level" only and a amount in "CC".
@@RMAGarage 2020 model. Yeah my manual only tells the fluid volume cc. Not an air gap. I’ll just be sure to bleed properly and fill the right amount in!
@@fynn8252 Sounds like a good plan. My father-in-law would always say "Well all else fails, read the directions". LOL!
The service manual mentions extracting the air from the air chamber completely before removing cap bolts. Did you do that? With the little nipple indent at the bottom of the forks?
We have not. I am not sure why because when you take the fork apart, any air trapped comes out when the top cap is removed.
What does that plastic fork guard do? Great video.
It allows the fork seal to slide over the end of the tube with out ripping or damaging the fork seal.
Wow! Great video guys, thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Would this be pretty much the same procedure for a 2016 WR250R?
I looked up the parts diagram on Revzilla and it looks like the same construction.
when you put the top fork cap back on do you leave the bleeder screw loose or have it tight?
We have the bleeder screw tight when assembling the fork. Once the fork is 100% installed and after the first ride, I loosen the bleeder valve and bleed the air from the fork and then reinstall the screw. Thanks for the question.
Отличная работа. Спасибо за видео.
добро пожаловать
So… did the old “cleaned” seals no longer leak fork oil?
That is correct. No leaks.....I just need to stay out of the thick mud. LOL
Thank you VERY much !
Your Welcome.
Great video really helpful!!!!
Thanks.
Great video! Thanks so much
Thanks for the Comment.
Does using 5W oil instead of the yamalube 0W make any significant difference? I am thinking about using 5W because it's a lot cheaper.
The short answer is no, I did not notice a difference in the performance of the forks. That being said, I am not a racer nor able to detect small differences in set up. All I know is that the original oil I removed and the oil I installed seem to be the same. I know they are different, but the difference is very small. All the research I did said to go with 5w and all would be good. So far so good. Thanks for the comment.
Perfect video thanks a lot!!
Glad it helped!
Tusk seal driver? I didn't know thusk made PVC.
The fork seal driver is made of steel.
@@RMAGarage I was just joking as alot of people including me use a piece of PVC pipe. An actual driver definitely looks way nicer.
LOL. I guess my initial thought was way to serious. I actually saw a video of a guy using a old plastic tube that was a tube of caulking that was cleaned out and slit down the side (ruclips.net/video/GzMQnSIo0NE/видео.html).
Thanks great video
You're Welcome.
Great video
Thanks!
Perfect
Thanks for the comment.
Are these forks the same as the yz250x ? I wanna do a spring swap but all the vids i find are complete disassembly
From the research I did, This is not the same fork as the yz250x.
I would try the video below (link). This may be similar to yours.
ruclips.net/video/eru0iV8sU8Y/видео.html
Did you put your oil seal in backwards?? Our spring for the oil seal goes up towards the top of suspension and the dust seal spring points down towards the axel....I could swear u out the oil seal upside down.....and when you put the spring in tube....hold a wrench under the damper pvc and twist the spring up and you don't have to catch the damper inside the spring....little trick
Thanks for the comment. I love the tip with the fork spring. I will try that next time. Our fork seal has two springs, one the inside and one on the side of the "Scrapper" portion of the fork seal. The "Scrapper" faces down.
Congrats guys and kind regards from Hellas Greece island Cyprus.. I have one WR250X model 2008, is the same.?
I have reviewed the front fork exploded parts drawing on our suppliers website and compared our bike and your bike. They are very similar but not exact. I thinks it is similar enough to go for it. Just remember to take photos and write down the order of parts removed and there orientation. Also, i would try and find a manual online if you do not have one. That is where you will get the best and complete info. If you get stuck for confused, don't force it. It would be better to get professional help then to break the forks. Happy wrenching!
@@RMAGarage Thank you so much my friend.. of course, if you want and have the time, you would help me a lot.. I don't have the manuals and I am a little afraid of the amount of oil..
Ok, sorry for the long delay. I think I found the service manual online and it is free. See Link Below:
www.manualslib.com/manual/1199896/Yamaha-Wr250r.html?page=3#manual
the manual if for the WR250R and WR250X.
The amount of oil is listed on page 4-46. It says 20.73 US oz. If you email me at dirtbikedad48@gmail.com, I might be able to email you the manual because I was able to download it. Give this a try.
If the link above does not work, Try this one....
www.manualslib.com/manual/1199896/Yamaha-Wr250r.html#manual
@@RMAGarage Sorry for the delay.. Thank you my friend 😊
What type of oil measure do they have?
It is an old beaker from a chemistry kit I had when I was younger.
Is this also for kyb aos forks?
Is is the same on Wr 450F 2007?
Yes, it has the same fork.
Did you guys not remove the dampening valve?
We did not remove the dampening valve. I am going to eventually buy the tool to remove it and do a full service. This video was just for the fork seals.
We did not. I do not have the tool for that yet.
Maybe you could be my dad too.. and we can work on bike together. You seem really chill.
thanks for the kind words
Would this work for my 2016 wr450f with AOS cartridge type forks?
Jordan, the fork on the 2016 wr450f is different than the one in our video. So the answer is no.
Try this video. It is not in english, but should give the some good direction. (ruclips.net/video/okUJd0Nru3M/видео.html)
Thank you a ton for taking the time to help me out!
@@jordanwhite3249 You're Welcome
Want to know how much capacity one leg
I have been toiling over this answer because there is not fluid amount. I was trying to come up with a way to give you the fluid amount but I would have to take them apart again. The fluid level is a measurement from the top of the tube as the video describes. If you are wonder how much to buy, 2 quarts will do both legs with some left over. thanks for the question.
would that be the same as wr250r ??
I am not sure if it is the same fork. I am sorry but I have no info on that fork.
i can’t loosen the top cap it is so tight and it’s showing early signs of getting stripped
Did you leave it in the lower triple clamp and loosen the upper triple clamp? Make sure you loosen the upper triple clamp.
Why oil seal and dust seal used , why can't we use one
Mud and dirt is very damaging and the extra dust seal makes the inner seal last longer.
@@RMAGarage and there is application of grease too ? Can we eliminate it why is that required if we have both
@@apekshasamyal You can eliminate the grease if you want to. The reason why we use the grease is because we were riding is heavy mud and the grease seamed to help with keeping the grit from getting to the inner seal.
Okay thanks and the pipe is seamless pipe or seam weld pipe ? The top one
The pipe is seamless.
Cannot for the life of me get my dust seals in.. they will not seat all was around.
I did not have that problem. If you have a fork seal driver, your can use that to tap it in.
@@RMAGarage have tried, it just jumps out, was servicing the forks after replacing the head stock bearings and it was easier to seat the bearing race's than to try to get the dust seal on, I am going to order some more, I think I have ether been sent the wrong year (but every other part fit) or defective ones. Cheers for the reply 👍
@@HardlyDrivenSon It sounds like they sent you the wrong one.