I am switching out my alternator right now and everything is off except for this stubborn 14mm bolt. I moved the fans and even tried using an electric screwdriver but still nothing! Bolt must be worn out but the sockets are staying in place but not going anywhere. PLEASE HELP!
Did you have to move the fan out of the way to get the top bolt out? I was going to remove it from the bottom, but it looks like you were able to do it fairly easy from the top. My G35X has been sitting for 2 months. I gave it a jump but the brake and battery light kept staying on. Theyd go away once I accelerated though. But as soon as I turned it off I couldnt start it. It'd just start clicking, which is the battery. I dont have a voltmeter though. I was going to throw my roommates battery that I know is good in it. See if the same problem persist. If the brake and battery light is still on, then its definitely the alternator. I figured that It'd be a bitch like the starter was. Well I just had to wrestle with it, because I wasnt removing the damn cv axel like some ppl do. I managed to fit it through like a puzzle trying to do it but got the job done. Atleast the alternator looks like itll be easier to some degree. Appreciate your video, it was simple and straight to the point. I watched other videos where they were doing a bunch of unnecessary extra bullshit. Im trying to get this shit out as quick and easy as possible. Hell yeah, Im going to try hitting it from the top now. I just couldnt tell if you had to bring the fan shroud up to access that top bolt or not. Ill figure it out, was just trying to get the lay out in my head. I got it now simple job, again appreciate it.
The fan shroud was already missing on this vehicle. So if yours is in the way, it’s possible it may have to be removed. But once that’s out your way it shouldn’t be an issue getting the alternator out.
@@mapauto8934 man stop lying to people. The idler pulley does not loosen the belt and remove the alternator like you portrayed it and there is no way to remove the alternator from the top. If someone had already done the job before you shoot this footage be honest and stop giving yourself credit from someone else work
BROOO IM M35 HERE AND YES THE STARTER IS ANNOYING.... Had to go through the passenger wheel well and when you do that you have maybe 4 inches of wiggle room to loosen the night so I got 100 position 100 tooth ratchet that was like 3 ft long cuz no other ratchet would be that long to reach the starter and extend all the way out through the passenger wheel well so that you can actually turn it 🤣🤣🤣 and even then I was only doing two or three clicks at a time. So it took forever just to loosen it and forever just to tighten it two or three clicks at a time that starter was annoying😂😂😂
i’m replacing an alternator for someone on a 2006 m35 and after i got done the belt squeals? and when i went to take the tensioner off i had to loosen the bottom screw too, could that be why
In my M35x 2007 my headlights start flashing for 5 seconds later it’s fine ... then today my lights inside were getting dim till I pressed the gas a little bit and it fixed. Do you think it’s the alternator or battery ?
Help please. Is there a bolt behind the alternator or a bracket to keep it from sliding out ? I removed the one of the bolt , bottom n grinded the top right bolt that didn't want to catch. It still won't come move forward ,it just wiggles
This guy is a liar. Someone commented on the video being weak and i reacted strongly against that person. First things first, The 14mm idler pulley bolts does not loosen the belt There are 2 bolts under which controls the tension on both belts (alternator and AC) so one must loosen the alternator bolt (not the ider pulley). Very deceptive attempt to get some views and validation by posting lies. #2 - there is no way to remove both alternator bolts holding the positive and negative bolts from the top. Noooo way. The only thing one may do from the top is remove the bolts holding the alternator and the bracket which not the hardest part. One must reach from underneath to remove the negative battery bolt hence cable & even after that, there is another bracket in a tight corner holding on to the alternator with 2 strong hard plastic gromet or rivet & 3 x 7mm bolts. Removing the bolts to drop the alternator is not too hard but if you wanna do things by the book and install the new alternator with this bracket there is gonna be a lot of F words under the vehicle. I completed this job last month. Had to put the car on ramps to work from underneath. Took me almost 4hrs under cursing at this guy lies. Yes he lied and he knows it.
Yep, I knew it. I can't reach the connectors from the top of the vehicle. I can't squeeze my hand between the space, plus I'll need pliers to take off one of the connectors. There simply is no room. I got the pully wheel off and 2 main screws holding the alternator.😒
This won't work you have to go under the car and drop the swaybar loosen the fan shroud to get the top altinator bolt out and reach behind the altinator to remove power cable and connector and a bracket that holds the wires it's not to bad if you've done it before but will takes hours if you don't know what to do
How u get the alternator plug out
Thank you for sharing this video, great job, I may have to replace, an alternator on one today'(
I am switching out my alternator right now and everything is off except for this stubborn 14mm bolt. I moved the fans and even tried using an electric screwdriver but still nothing! Bolt must be worn out but the sockets are staying in place but not going anywhere. PLEASE HELP!
Did you have to move the fan out of the way to get the top bolt out? I was going to remove it from the bottom, but it looks like you were able to do it fairly easy from the top. My G35X has been sitting for 2 months. I gave it a jump but the brake and battery light kept staying on. Theyd go away once I accelerated though. But as soon as I turned it off I couldnt start it. It'd just start clicking, which is the battery. I dont have a voltmeter though. I was going to throw my roommates battery that I know is good in it. See if the same problem persist. If the brake and battery light is still on, then its definitely the alternator.
I figured that It'd be a bitch like the starter was. Well I just had to wrestle with it, because I wasnt removing the damn cv axel like some ppl do. I managed to fit it through like a puzzle trying to do it but got the job done. Atleast the alternator looks like itll be easier to some degree. Appreciate your video, it was simple and straight to the point. I watched other videos where they were doing a bunch of unnecessary extra bullshit. Im trying to get this shit out as quick and easy as possible. Hell yeah, Im going to try hitting it from the top now. I just couldnt tell if you had to bring the fan shroud up to access that top bolt or not. Ill figure it out, was just trying to get the lay out in my head. I got it now simple job, again appreciate it.
The fan shroud was already missing on this vehicle. So if yours is in the way, it’s possible it may have to be removed. But once that’s out your way it shouldn’t be an issue getting the alternator out.
@@mapauto8934 man stop lying to people. The idler pulley does not loosen the belt and remove the alternator like you portrayed it and there is no way to remove the alternator from the top. If someone had already done the job before you shoot this footage be honest and stop giving yourself credit from someone else work
BROOO IM M35 HERE AND YES THE STARTER IS ANNOYING.... Had to go through the passenger wheel well and when you do that you have maybe 4 inches of wiggle room to loosen the night so I got 100 position 100 tooth ratchet that was like 3 ft long cuz no other ratchet would be that long to reach the starter and extend all the way out through the passenger wheel well so that you can actually turn it 🤣🤣🤣 and even then I was only doing two or three clicks at a time. So it took forever just to loosen it and forever just to tighten it two or three clicks at a time that starter was annoying😂😂😂
the wires came out of the plug do you know the order of the wires for a pigtail replacement plug? thanks
i’m replacing an alternator for someone on a 2006 m35 and after i got done the belt squeals? and when i went to take the tensioner off i had to loosen the bottom screw too, could that be why
Yes tighten bottom screw
Is this made like an 06 same model
In my M35x 2007 my headlights start flashing for 5 seconds later it’s fine ... then today my lights inside were getting dim till I pressed the gas a little bit and it fixed. Do you think it’s the alternator or battery ?
Did your battery light come on? You should get the battery tested first before anything gets replaced.
No battery light came on ... I will check at auto zone so they can test my battery
Ok cool, let me know if you any other issue or need help with anything else.
Hey dawg I just went to auto zone they told me my battery and alternator is good what can it be ?
If the alternator and the battery tested out good you may have some kind of electrical issue goin on then.
Help please. Is there a bolt behind the alternator or a bracket to keep it from sliding out ? I removed the one of the bolt , bottom n grinded the top right bolt that didn't want to catch. It still won't come move forward ,it just wiggles
Bro I need help ASAP!!!
What problem are you having?
Trying to replace the starter it’s hard tho
and I think the 07 m45 has 2 thermostats
After you replaced that t line did you bleed the coolant system to make sure there was no air in it?
no I didnt.. and the car wasn't letting me go full speed ...the heater hose connector I got fits but it's not like the original one
When you say it fits is it a secure connection? If not I would try oem part. As for it not going full speed any warning signs coming up?
the check engine light came on..and the car wont go full speed
Did you get the code? If so what is it?
This guy is a liar. Someone commented on the video being weak and i reacted strongly against that person.
First things first,
The 14mm idler pulley bolts does not loosen the belt
There are 2 bolts under which controls the tension on both belts (alternator and AC) so one must loosen the alternator bolt (not the ider pulley).
Very deceptive attempt to get some views and validation by posting lies.
#2 - there is no way to remove both alternator bolts holding the positive and negative bolts from the top. Noooo way. The only thing one may do from the top is remove the bolts holding the alternator and the bracket which not the hardest part.
One must reach from underneath to remove the negative battery bolt hence cable & even after that, there is another bracket in a tight corner holding on to the alternator with 2 strong hard plastic gromet or rivet & 3 x 7mm bolts. Removing the bolts to drop the alternator is not too hard but if you wanna do things by the book and install the new alternator with this bracket there is gonna be a lot of F words under the vehicle.
I completed this job last month. Had to put the car on ramps to work from underneath. Took me almost 4hrs under cursing at this guy lies. Yes he lied and he knows it.
Yep, I knew it. I can't reach the connectors from the top of the vehicle. I can't squeeze my hand between the space, plus I'll need pliers to take off one of the connectors. There simply is no room. I got the pully wheel off and 2 main screws holding the alternator.😒
lol yep same problem my bf is having is exactly what u all described
@@funkypanda8789 a big liar just wanting views and likes at all costs.
This won't work you have to go under the car and drop the swaybar loosen the fan shroud to get the top altinator bolt out and reach behind the altinator to remove power cable and connector and a bracket that holds the wires it's not to bad if you've done it before but will takes hours if you don't know what to do