Integrated Bracelets: History, Heros & Horrors
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- Опубликовано: 25 авг 2024
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Andrew, Adrian, and George explore integrated bracelet watches, the luxury watch world's excuse for sports watches: AP Royal Oak, Patek Nautilus, IWC Ingenieur, Rolex Daytona, Vacheron Constantin Overseas.
#patekphilippe #AP #rolex
I think the integrated bracelet is the ultimate and most compelling evidence of the watchmakers obsession with craft, design and “wrist presence satisfaction”. In fact, it doesn’t even have to be integrated. When a bracelet is achieved (tapper, clasp, texture, light) with the same mastery as the case or the movement it is integral to the watch wearing experience.
The Cartier Santos would have to be the watch I’ve lusted after the most. More so from the design and how effortlessly the bracelet “integrates” into the watch. The integrated design is so popular because i feel it aesthetically looks so clean to both the general consumer and the watch community
You guys have become a Sunday tradition, nice job as always.
"these guys aren't sponsoring us, we don't have to say anything". Truthful.
Wow
My IWC featured - made my day!!
Cheers George and gents 👍🎉
That Bremont is INSANE. I have never seen that watch and it just might have become my dream watch. I have honestly never "loved" the AP and the Patek, but something about that Bremont is just speaking to me. Love it!
Love the looks too, just can't stand the black side of the case. Just destroys the symmetry for me. But amazing still
I think it’s cohesive design rather than integrated bracelets per se. The most sought after watches have the most beautiful cohesive design: case, dial, and bracelet.
The AP Royal Oak is the epitome of this as it’s mastered all 3. Followed by the Patek Nautilus. This attention to overall design is what Genta perfected
I love Vacheron, but the bracelet doesn’t taper enough and the dials lack the texture.
The IWC Ingenieur great watch, but not a stand out beautiful dial either, and only in plain colour options. Same for the new Bremont, plain dials, not interesting colour or texture options.
Now, although Rolex don’t offer integrated watches today per se, they do have beautiful cohesive design of case, dial and bracelet. It’s this (as well as brand image) that makes them so sought after. And after The Royal Oak and Nautilus, they offer the best bracelets (oyster, jubilee, and president) .
This is what sets these brands above the nearly rans like Omega, like Grand Seiko which haven’t yet perfected cohesive design, and their bracelets are lacking.
Good video. Missed the Piaget Polo for completeness.
I think you’re right. And focus on overall design including bracelet, regardless of integrated is what has let down many brands. Like Omega. Like Grand Seiko.
Agree overall design of case and bracelet (and dial ) irrespective of weather integrated . Piaget gets forgotten but prefer it to Laureato
Yeah, and as you say Rolex design as if they are integrated.
Though not originally released with an integrated bracelet, the Cartier Santos is an interesting take on the innovation within the integrated bracelet aspect of watches. Not only integrated in design, but also function.
Had the same exact thought. Was glad to hear the PRX mentioned, though, which seems to be one of the hottest watches on the market right now.
Did I miss this? The watches you wear on the show dont have the correct time! Did you just grab them a sec before the show? Do you guys not really wear watches and thus dont set them? Or is there another reason? I love your show by the way
I love how Adrian panicked every time George picked up that Bremont and tried to keep everything else away from it so it didn’t get damaged 🤣🤣
At one point there was an audible click when it touched another watch. I literally went, “uh oh…”
@@yojimbo21 I know 🤦🏽 , Im at a Bremont meet and greet in a couple of weeks I might ask if I can buy it at a discount now it’s been banged about 😜🤣
Sad that the episode wasn’t an hour this week, but I as always it was a great episode with amazing watches
Sad it was so short! Feel like it was just the tip of the iceberg on the topic. Either way fantastic episode, beautiful watches. Been eyeing the 36mm B&M Riviera in blue... 42mm is too large for my dainty wrists.
I love the Zenith because it’s integrated but also has an option for a non bracelet strap. So you get the best of both worlds.
However I’ll still pick a watch with a dial that turns heads versus one you see on a lot of wrists.
Finally you mentionned RZE ! Love that brand !!!
I like integrated bracelets, but I don't like the ones I can afford. There is a quality and design improvement at the higher price points. The PRX does it well, at a very cheap price point, but in the $5-10k range, no one really nails it.
...until you showed me that Bremont. THAT is sexy. It's clearly a Royal Oak copy, but it really does a fantastic job! I'll have to genuinely consider one!
I wonder if I subconsciously knew this was going to be the topic for todays show as this morning I chose to reach for my PRX, the only integrated (inspired) bracelet watch I own.
Same, but with a vintage Seiko King Quartz ;)
Personally, I think that the reason why people appreciate integrated bracelet watches more often (consciously or unconsciously) is because an integrated bracelet watche gives the image of a complete "artwork".
Because although the bracelet being an element attached to the watch itself, in case of an traditionnal bracelet or watch band it can be easily removed without altering the primary functions of the watch. And some times it brings a wole new look to the watch it self.
However, an integrated bracelet bring a kind of completeness, there is nothing left to do, the "artwork" is finished. I think that's what most people are sensitive to.
Now that that is said, thank you for your great content guys. Special mention to George, who's trying to convince us for several episodes that the "Ingenieur" is the best watch in desguise. Lol. I catch myself looking for some of these now, without a penny left in my watch budget for the moment. That's sucks, thanks you guys.
Hi from south of France.
ALX
A good Collin Chapman quote applies here.
" Make Suspension adjustable and they will adjust it wrong"
Love the Bremont and Bulgari straps the best
Yes! New episode. I’ve already gone through the back catalogue a couple times. Fresh pour of four pillars and I’m ready to enjoy
I would love a blue Baume & Mercier Riviera Baumatic. Probably my favorite attainable integrated bracelet watch.
I use to not like the idea of integrated bracelets, but then it hit me, half my watches have them. I have a number of Swatch watches and their strap designs make the watch on almost all of their models. It speaks to how at any price point, fully designing the watch and strap/bracelet to work together should be the ultimate goal.
I am so happy for that RZE was given a shoutout. I have yet to purchase one but I really really enjoy they’re style and the full lume dials are awesome!
I get it, but at the same time, finding one or more personal pairings of watch and band is all part of the fun.
Here's the thing. A watch with an integrated bracelet doesn't have to be 5k-50k. Oris Aquis is a watch with an integrated bracelet at 2k. And it totally fucking works. I have the 41.5 mm Oris Aquis Cherry Red. I couldn't imagine this watch with any other bracelet. It just wouldn't work. Having a small wrist, this integrated bracelet design allows me to have the largest dial possible on wrist without having to worry about the lug to lug dimensions fucking it up for me. Integrated bracelet are simply perfect for smaller wrists.
Pro Pilots from them are phenomenal too! +1 for Oris
thanks guys, for confirming that the Longines Avigation Big Eye is amazing! I have the blue dial titanium version and love it!
✊🏼
Wonderful topic! As an American ( please don’t judge me ) their accents , combined with passion, knowledge and love of watches , makes these very enjoyable to watch. Great job fellas!
Great episode, I had held back in the past on integrated bracelet watches because I love changing the look of the watch at times. I feel some of these companies have integrated bracelet because Integrated watches is more about the attachment of art with the watch. Imagine Ferrari with it's simple beauty being fully re customized into something completely undesirable? I don't know just a thought. The Bremont was my favorite. Most of the ones I love are very much out of my budget. I did however purchase my Casio Edifice EFB- 108 after seeing it in a video. I love it for the style, sapphire crystal , 100m WR and yes it's quartz LOL . Thanks again guys. Best
An integrated bracelet can make or break a watch. I personally love them and provided the designer has put the same level of attention to detail into the bracelet design and integration as into the watch, you end up with a product that is greater than the sum of its’ individual parts.
“The number one broadcast of its kind anywhere in the world” is the way to go I think
😳
Out of the entire pile.. the one I’d swap keys with is the Bremont. Seeing them all side by side, it just looked better than the rest. And I’m a huge Zenith Defy fan.
Everything crossed IWC bring out a new integrated Ingenuir at WAW
I loved the Bremont for its underside and different approach with the similar style bracelet. Andrew I love Rze Watches. It’s a great Micro brand that puts thoughtfulness in their designs of watches. The bonus is anyone could afford one of these beauties and feel luxurious. Great materials and good looks go a long way in my book. Cheers fellas another great show.
I think that integrated bracelets are attractive timepieces. From A. Lange & Söhne Odysseus to the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, to the Octo and even to the affordable ones: the Maurice Lacroix Aikon, the Tissot PRX or the Citizen Tsuyoza. It works with me!
The Odysseus is not an integrated bracelet watch though. The bracelet was designed to make it "appear integrated" by having wider lug ends.
I realize that the definition of “integrated bracelets” has blurred lines and I’m happy with the description given in this video: it’s a timepiece where the original bracelet is essential to the design of the watch. I believe the Odysseus fits in this description and A. Lang & Söhne seems to agree.
@@joseoliveira6499 I actually don't like the bracelet for the Odysseus. It feels like an afterthought rather than a complete new design that's built bespoke for the watch.
In my opinion, the Odysseus will look pretty awesome on a strap considering it takes standard lug straps.
@@alectang1614, Monochrome presents some examples of leather and rubber straps for the Odysseus but with metallic endlinks. I believe there are alternatives but these ones are not for me.
@@joseoliveira6499 I actually think it would look best with no end link. Just a standard strap with it. Would look the most Lange.
Another effing awesome episode, that Bremont is epic but the oldies are goldies! Massive want as always, you guys are going to bankrupt me 😂
Fantastic watches. And addition of the new Bremont is icing on the cake. Very enjoyable.
How did the Cartier Santos not enter the conversation?
YES TO 'ABOUT EFFING TIME' NATOS. PUT FUCK YOU REAL BIG ON THEM PLEASE. As always a great show and conversation. Have a great week guys.
That Bremont - WOW 🔥🔥🔥🔥🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧🇬🇧
Really like that Longines Avigation Big Eye. They have one a blue that I have really been considering lately as my next acquistion.
I adore that Bremont! Ohhh my God! I love that watch! 😍😍 Andrew's description of the watch is so spot on!
What about the plethora of 70’s omega seamasters with inter grated bracelets….. amazing and very affordable with killer looks
On the more affordable end, every swatch with a resin strap technically is an integrated piece.
Adrian, this comment comes from a place of love. I’m a longtime viewer of your channel, and I’m here watching this channel BECAUSE of you. It pains me every time you’re down on your style of watches. Your preferences are great, and your collection and preferences are just as valid as Andrew and George’s are. And along those lines, you often fade into the background, seemingly deferring to Andrew and George as the conversations progress. Your perspective is just as valid as theirs.
Just wanted to offer you words of encouragement. SPEAK UP! As a whole, I’m thoroughly enjoying these episodes fellas. Keep up the great work.
My most desirable watch is A Lange & Söhne datograph, with a platinum bracelet.
I think as there’s already the infrastructure, a Bark & Jack About Effing Time Edition strap makes more sense.
I would buy!!
What about the Santos? I think of that one as at least a gray area integrated bracelet and you can't get more iconic
10:47 George; the gigachad that nobody asked for but that we all needed.
The little middle fingers to the masked watchmaker inside the land rover in the intro 😂😂😂😂
I just realised that the AET X Bark and Jack NATO Strap could be in the Charlie Brown jersey pattern. That way you have a connection with George's Snoopy work.
So glad you brought several intergraded bracelets watches to the table. My ‘grail watch’ currently is a zenith port royal el primero (sadly not a intergraded watch). Keep up the awesome content
You should check out the Oris TT F1 Williams with the pivoting integrated bracelet.
So it think what we look for in grail/icon
Watches is a balance of timeless and signature design. Integrated bracelets extend the design language and offer a more complete signature. Look at the watches in question (Nautilus, Royal Oak, Overseas, 222, Santos!) take the name off the dial and we all know what these are due to the face/case shape, numerals/markers, finish, bracelet design/angles. Where brands fail is a lack of “signature” or cohesion overall. Adrian bringing out the Bremont was the perfect example and Andrew nailed it…the most interesting part is the triptych case but with the curved “case” hoods/lugs it is hidden, and then worse than that the case and dial are flowing and rounded yet the bracelet Is angular like a Royal Oak. The reality is iconic watches are harmonious….Datejust with fluted bezel and jubilee, sub on oyster, speedy on nato, and all
The watches i mentioned before. If you don’t find harmony and a signature it’s off….this is where an indie like Fears is nailing it.
Great show guys.
The reason Intergrated straps look so good is because it makes the watch look complete and not half finished, it also makes the watch a piece of jewellery, 50 odd years ago men loved wearing gold bracelets, times and fashion have changed, some watch designers have realised this and made it a part of their watch desiign others have done it to copy.
Tag Heuer have been doing since the late 80's and it's taken 40 years for the rest to catch up.
I've even got a Diesel with a pretty mad watch and strap design from 20 years ago But, now it's a thing why because watches with ridiculous price tags are doing it!
Nice work mates
these shows are getting amazing , these are great to watch after work :) keep it up guys!
Andrews Longines is killer!
Enjoyed this episode very much, wished you had talked about the Omega Constellation as well. In my view that’s also a well executed integrated bracelet design.
Having a bracelet as a part of watch design is important...having the option to put a sports watch on a NATO or some leather, when the metal gets too heavy, is also important (to me). A Rolex looks great on leather, rubber, or fabric, but you have to pick thin straps and take out the spring bars (or use curved ones) with NATO...which is a bit of a shame. I wouldn't be surprised if someone took a file to that case.
On the other hand, I do like the look of the Nautilus and I can't really imagine it on anything else than a bracelet...it might work, design permitting, but it's a plain bracelet watch.
Just had my IWC Ingenieur 500,000 A/m appraised for insurance $7k - original owner since 93 box/papers. Valuation has doubled over last couple of years.
Guys, great show again. I believe you need to handle the Maurice Lacroix Aikon to evaluate its integration of the bracelet. It also takes its roots from the Calypso model from 1990. The new Aikons have an easy to change bracelet, leather and FKM rubber band same as Zenith, GP or VC. But they have the same reputation as TAG among the watch community.
Regarding your question Andrew, my grail is an integrated bracelet watch, namely the VC 222 from 2022 :D
Cheers Guys!
I'm eyeing a Baume&Mercier Riviera. Tried one on the other day and just can't stop thinking about it :). Also, slowly but surely, the design of the Laureato har grown on me for the last year.
Spotted Martin Brundle walk straight past George on his grid walk. How on earth did he not stop and chat?!?! I thought he would stop and go GEORGE!!! I would have done :D
Many saw this!
Funny enough I own the watch on the next page right after the Patek. Its a Credor “locomotive” and its probably one of the only Japanese watches that carry publicly known provenance as being designed by Gerald Genta during the same time period as the royal oak and the nautilus
Awesome episode guys - Love this content when you learn about watches ! Fabulous 🎉
That RZE isn’t just compressor style, it’s a true compressor dive watch!!!
That Oysterquarz is incredible and super rare. The Rolex Oysterquartz 5100 was actually introduced in 1970. Two years before the Royal Oak.
Excellent show guys! Good topics too !!
If you buy integrated watch/bracelet you’d want to make sure you buy a spare bracelet as we all know the first thing that gets damaged or worn out first is that bloody bracelet!!!
Oh my goodness my jaw dropped when I saw that yellow gold Rolex integration.
It's About Effing Time you sold a watches Top Trumps. You lads could easily do it, and it'd be great!
Jesus, they schill enough! Don't be giving them ideas!😂
Maybe you guys could do an episode on the ‘Unboxing experience’.
Having now 10 pieces in my collection I feel that this part of the experience is vastly decorrelated with the luxury aspect of the brand, sometimes grossly so.
For their price points I feel Omega and Rolex are truly disappointing. Even Breitling is really ‘boring’ in packaging. Patek is exquisite, Glashütte and Zenith do a great work, Tudor is not bad, etc.
But that’s just my view.
Just looking at the Snoopy packs from Bamford - what a great job!
And ii is so important.
And you could certainly get pictures from people watching the show if you called upon us.
Thanks and keep on the amazing work.
Excluding Rolex foreclosed an interesting sidebar “Does the bracelet being more Iconic that the watch head itself matter”? You can’t mistake a “president” for anything else even though the watch head is just a Datejust from 5 feet. A “jubilee” is instantly recognizable on an SKX just as much as on a Datejust. Not worth an entire episode but the side bar banter would be fun to see.
If watches are jewlry then integrated just makes sense. I still prefer the ability to switch between bracelet, leather, rubber and cloth at will and only hope more and more companies start adding quick change features.
Also, a black/yellow/white AET X Bark and Jack NATO strap could be excellent. Can't believe I'm encouraging the schill.
With relatively few exceptions, I have a general aversion to integrated bracelets. (On account of someone blowing a Stop sign and clocking me on my Vespa two weeks ago, wearing *any* watch is out of the question for the next month or so; AET has become near-necessary therapy for me, so big thanks, guys!) Too often, when looking at watches in the sub-$1.5k bracket, "Integrated" means being stuck with whatever bit of laced metal was deemed "adequate." But then you whipped out the Bremont Supernova and I just melted. Love everything about it (why did *they* come up with putting a Big Date display in the "traditional" dial location seemingly before anyone else? Effing brilliant.), but sadly out-of-budget for me.
Great again, bit of a cutback on the length.... ahem! 🤪 I just could watch you guys debate watches all day. Honorable mention on my part would be the H. Moser Streamliner which also has a unique execution of the integrated bracelet. Also the Omega Constellation is a very nice example imo. As for the Q: Should I ever be in a lucky position to opt for any of the two, I'd go for an IWC over PP. 🤘
Speaking of sports day and George.. I’m pretty sure I saw him in the Aston paddock during the practice session. I smiled.
of course .. George is the new Waldo
I think it boils down to integrated design. When the whole watch fits together with the strap it just looks like a homogeneous ensemble. It also brings symetry which leonardo da Vinci himself described as the source of beauty.
The king of the the integrated strap has to any G shock 😁
Great topic
I love the Tonda line of Parmigiani Fleurier and I think they designed it after the IWC Ingenieur Perpetual Calendar Jumbo ref. 9240 which is one the most gorgeous integrated bracelet watches ever made.
❤ That is a great looking Bremont piece ❤
The Zenith is beautiful but that second hand going round so quickly just puts me off.
More love needed for the Tissot PRX, got mine in January, what a great watch for the price.
Drink every time George says "for me..."
Love watching the show.
But what about the Oris Aquis?
Watch the buying challenge
Just got back from Watch Heaven - aka Dubai. - getting caught up on episodes. Great topic - the Bremont FTW. Such a unique look; a lot of thought and engineering and manufacturability went into that design.
Cartier Santos also another great pick!
I think the main confusion of what is an intergrated bracelet watch is caused because the actual term "intergrated bracelet" is bit vague. Also it's a technical description of the watch. I would rather prefer to call them "bracelet watches" because that is what they are.
The other reason is that people only consider the design of the bracelet as a unit, when actually it is the total design of the watch head and the bracelet that is "intergrated". It isn't about a watch having lugs or nor, or a certain mechanism to lock head and bracelet together. It's about design. A bracelet designed to match the aesthetics of that watch only. A watch head designed to match that bracelet only.
In design, lines always go somewhere. They don't just vanish. In an integrated bracelet watch, the lines are continuous and end somewhere. An Oyster or a Jubilee bracelet are not "intergrated" because the lines don't match the head lines and these bracelets are shared among many models.
If you think about it, should we consider Swatch to be integrated bracelet watches? How about the Casio F-91 etc? How about the Ω seamaster 300? It has it's own bracelet but it isn't a uniform design.
P.S. A short description would be:
70's kitsch inspired watches.
My most desired (habring) is not an integrated bracelet. However one of my top 10-2 most desired has integrated lugs (fxd) and another (oysterquarz) does have integrated …
I won't spend as much on a watch as those cost but I enjoy my 35mm PRX. It's a good thing that the 5513 looks good on straps because after 53 years, the bracelet on mine is worn out.
I have a Tissot PRX 35mm , green dial with the integrated bracelet & love it! Good topic again gentlemen.👍🏼😎🇦🇺
Love the Heuer Daytona MR. Bamford brought! I would like to see the Bamford X Heuer new Daytona in Titanium!
Idk, I sort of see integrated bracelets the way I see any new and popular idea.
Ford makes the Mustang and it’s wildly successful, so the big companies copy.
There can also be examples of large companies popularizing a concept that then becomes synonymous with them…like Apple and the iPhone.
It’s a good recipe based on a (in the moment) popular design that others can change a bit of to get a different tasting dish…but they all share the same beginning recipe that they are starting from.
While i agree with the definition of an integrated sports watch in that video i think also important for the integrated bracelet style is an unique Bezel. The bezel of the watch is the first thing you see and after that comes the amazing bracelet. All watches shown on the table have unique bezels and i can name more with an unique bezel from (Santos, Tudor Royal, Baume Reviera; Omega Constellation etc.). Also what i think is important for there style to be succesfull is that the dial has a unique texture. This gives the watch much more attantion to detail.
Now to something different. I hate it that these watches are not seen as there own category of sports watches. They are for me like dive watches, but nobody says that every other brand with an dive watch has copied Blancpain and Rolex. They have since Genta made the big push that it should be seen as there own category.
Most brands cut costs when it comes to the bracelet. That’s why Rolex’s oyster, jubilee, are really sought after watches. It doesn’t have to integrated but a whole package.
Love the look of integrated design but want the ability to choose a different strap when I want
Great episode - thanks
The watches listed are only the tip of this very very big iceberg. Others are Laurent Ferrier Sport, Czapek Antartique, Piaget Polo, Cartier Santos, Hermes H08, Frederique Constant Highlife, Baume and Mercier Riviera, Maurice Lacroix Aikon, Tudor North Flag and Royal, vintage Omega Jacques Mayol Plongeur and Constellations, the new Yema Wristmaster, not to mention the Casioak and various other Gshocks with integrated bracelets even if they are resin. Even though many of these designs are superb, it is so hard for any of these or even the ones you all listed to break away from the AP shadow. I applaud Patek for at least having a design that has been extremely iconic yet less copied. I also think some of the television designs of Omega were unique and stood on their own.
Great show!
Yes to the AET natos! 🏆
And raise some money for a charity at the same time
It's in the pipeline.
Love my B&J Nato, especially my Ukrainian Flag one! I’m down for an AET X Bark&Jack NATO 😀
Horage movement machinery purchased by Bremont