I'd like to amplify the message about not using M19 to hold the chuck still. I have seen a chuck get turned far enough out of position that the lathe did a REALLY fast 360° rotation to get back to zero. This was not a Haas lathe (I don't know if they could do the same or not), and thankfully nobody was hurt, but it was a very graphic warning of why not to use M19.
I concur, plus it just seems like bad ju-ju to put such load on the motor that it might loose position, even if it would never kick back hard. The only method I'm comfortable with is hitting E-stop to make sure nothing could kick that motor on, and using a wrench to hold the jaw.
Kinda funny that it’s the ultimate precision-based job with precision-based procedures and tools yet this is one particular item one chooses to ignore. LöL
I’m not a machinist but watching this made me wonder who would consider performing shortcuts on a 6-figure piece of equipment that’s responsible for their livelihood? I worked with a guy many years ago who thought that jerry (jury) rigging his equipment saved him time but it ultimately cost more time when the necessary repair turned into something much more time consuming and costly than doing it correctly from the start. Procedures are procedures for a reason.
You're totally right of course. This is such a strange topic, in that we give a torque spec for the jaws, and almost no machinist uses a torque wrench when changing them, so we decided to show how you can double-check your chosen method. I've seen the screws fail, after 6 months, when a machinist used a big steel hand-sledge hammer to tighten his jaws. He was severely overtightening the screws, and they eventually failed. Those 60° grooves just work so very well, they are so reliable, that they are pretty forgiving on what torque we actually use, the V-grooves hold the jaws, the screws don't really take all the pressure of the hydraulic chuck. Great comment.
@@texasermd1 I think the owner/operators put a lot of thought into it, while I imagine many who are just owners don't know any better, and their operators little more.
Impact (air or battery, potato-potato) and torsion rods have never failed me. With the impact there is not such a big need to hold the chuck, wham-wham-wham-done... Works for me and wery little error when measuring the value with the torque wrench 😅.
Nice Video : I must ask this : How to apply the correct tightening torque without Torque Wrench , my mentor adviced me one thing : He mentioned that all the Allen Keys have a long arm and a short arm , the long arm is only so much long that generally you can only tighten enough as the long arm or lever of same length allows. So I also follow the same method once my hand cannot pull it further , I then use a small pipe to tighten it further and then stay content that the bolt will not break. Ofcourse : The Torque Wrench method is the way to go 🌸🌸 , however let me know how to be certain without one. Well just got ST20Y and guess what the Application Engineer who arrived also advised me against using the spindle brake , or any sort of M Code. He said instead go with a Wrench 😇 Thanks
Good information. A related question I've always had is, is it okay to use the jog the turret over to rest the adjustable wrench on? At one shop we did that to install or remove spindle liners as well as torquing the chuck jaws
I've used cordless impacts on my vehicles for years, but like any impact we have to be careful not to overtighten things (especially lug nuts). Two ugga-duggas, not three. I have some Torque Limiting extensions for my cordless impacts, and the way they work is fascinating - definitely worth a Google /RUclips search. These torque-limiting-extensions work well on some impacts, and not others, based on their cyclic rate and other factors. Thanks for the comment.
@@markterryberry4477 I just bought some torque stick extensions for a pneumatic torque driver at work. I never really checked the torqued ft pounds after we used the torque driver. I just trusted my boss with what worked, but at my old job we always torqued our jaws in with 75-100 ft lbs. just trying out some new stuff since I’ll be taking things over more in the department. Want to be accurate and safe if possible.
10” standard Main Spindle Chuck, 12” Optional. Along with an optional 5” chuck on the sun-spindle. We missed this one in the Bonus content! We’ll update that sheet on the site. Thanks. You can also see Chuck Sizes on the Build-and-Price pages for each lathe model. www.haascnc.com/machines/lathes/st.html
@@markterryberry4477 Thanks! For a moment I was worried that my model had been discontinued (perhaps in favor of the ST-28Y) before my HFO even finished setting it up! But I checked and saw that it was still configurable, plus I know it’s a big seller. Mine has every option including the 12-inch chuck. I am trying to teach myself machining on this and the UMC-750 I also purchased, based pretty much on watching your videos. I have a hundred pages of notes I’ve made from them. It’s a very fun process.
I have a question. which code should I use with M99 to let the machine run a certain number of bits and then stop if I use (gripX + rod) ???! (ST 10Y) lathe I hopp someone help my,😌😁
I've got a Fanuc lathe and the control literally has a button to lock the spindle for jaw changing. Also, that imperial bolt marking, as retarded as everything imperial.
For Hex Stock, we can use special Hex collets, if running a collet chuck, or simply use 3 pointed jaws if using a chuck jaw and loading material by hand. If running a bar feeder with hex stock, I'd much prefer running a hex collet as they have chamfers on the backside of the collet to help the material align on entry. We can orient the spindle (specific angle) when loading a new bar, but this isn't always necessary if the inside of the collet has a nice chamfer, and if we have chamfered the ends of the bars. Special Hexagon spindle liners are available, but usually aren't necessary.
![MISSING: SLIM SHADY [Expanded Mourner’s Edition Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xh8qgHrOO1g/mqdefault.jpg)
I'd like to amplify the message about not using M19 to hold the chuck still. I have seen a chuck get turned far enough out of position that the lathe did a REALLY fast 360° rotation to get back to zero. This was not a Haas lathe (I don't know if they could do the same or not), and thankfully nobody was hurt, but it was a very graphic warning of why not to use M19.
Terrific comment. Exactly!
I concur, plus it just seems like bad ju-ju to put such load on the motor that it might loose position, even if it would never kick back hard.
The only method I'm comfortable with is hitting E-stop to make sure nothing could kick that motor on, and using a wrench to hold the jaw.
Been a machinist for 15 years and I have never use a torque wrench. I've just used an Allen key and a soft blow with three ugga-duggas.
Kinda funny that it’s the ultimate precision-based job with precision-based procedures and tools yet this is one particular item one chooses to ignore. LöL
Thanx Mark.
I appreciate you and the Haas company as a whole.
UNTIL YOU GET YOUR ARM CALIBRATED 😂😂😂
"Errrrrrrrrr, click!"
Марк как всегда на высоте!
Please also make video that how hydraulic and non hydraulic chuck works animations and all?
Tighten em good with a long eklind, maybe tap with a deadblow,never had a problem in 18 years
Very good video
Nice
For me, living in the metric world, it has always been a mystery what those lines on the heads of the screws mean.
And got a little smarter again :-)
Good on you MARK THE KNOWLEDGEABLE
I’m not a machinist but watching this made me wonder who would consider performing shortcuts on a 6-figure piece of equipment that’s responsible for their livelihood? I worked with a guy many years ago who thought that jerry (jury) rigging his equipment saved him time but it ultimately cost more time when the necessary repair turned into something much more time consuming and costly than doing it correctly from the start. Procedures are procedures for a reason.
You're totally right of course. This is such a strange topic, in that we give a torque spec for the jaws, and almost no machinist uses a torque wrench when changing them, so we decided to show how you can double-check your chosen method. I've seen the screws fail, after 6 months, when a machinist used a big steel hand-sledge hammer to tighten his jaws. He was severely overtightening the screws, and they eventually failed. Those 60° grooves just work so very well, they are so reliable, that they are pretty forgiving on what torque we actually use, the V-grooves hold the jaws, the screws don't really take all the pressure of the hydraulic chuck. Great comment.
Interesting. If I owned one of these machines I would not tolerate such activity. At all.
@@texasermd1 I think the owner/operators put a lot of thought into it, while I imagine many who are just owners don't know any better, and their operators little more.
Excellent as always
4:25 No lines means grade 2; 3 lines means grade 5 and 6 lines means grade 8. It must be in imperial system. It can't be simple and straightforward :D
Impact (air or battery, potato-potato) and torsion rods have never failed me. With the impact there is not such a big need to hold the chuck, wham-wham-wham-done... Works for me and wery little error when measuring the value with the torque wrench 😅.
Nice Video : I must ask this : How to apply the correct tightening torque without Torque Wrench , my mentor adviced me one thing : He mentioned that all the Allen Keys have a long arm and a short arm , the long arm is only so much long that generally you can only tighten enough as the long arm or lever of same length allows.
So I also follow the same method once my hand cannot pull it further , I then use a small pipe to tighten it further and then stay content that the bolt will not break.
Ofcourse : The Torque Wrench method is the way to go 🌸🌸 , however let me know how to be certain without one.
Well just got ST20Y and guess what the Application Engineer who arrived also advised me against using the spindle brake , or any sort of M Code. He said instead go with a Wrench 😇
Thanks
I want to see is alignment on a haas lathe. Both x,y, and z in full detail 👌..
Good information. A related question I've always had is, is it okay to use the jog the turret over to rest the adjustable wrench on? At one shop we did that to install or remove spindle liners as well as torquing the chuck jaws
Kitigawa B-210. 2000 SL-30 bought new. Cordless dewalt 1/2” impact. No problems.
I've used cordless impacts on my vehicles for years, but like any impact we have to be careful not to overtighten things (especially lug nuts). Two ugga-duggas, not three. I have some Torque Limiting extensions for my cordless impacts, and the way they work is fascinating - definitely worth a Google /RUclips search. These torque-limiting-extensions work well on some impacts, and not others, based on their cyclic rate and other factors. Thanks for the comment.
@@markterryberry4477 I definitely don’t bear down on them.
@@markterryberry4477 I just bought some torque stick extensions for a pneumatic torque driver at work. I never really checked the torqued ft pounds after we used the torque driver. I just trusted my boss with what worked, but at my old job we always torqued our jaws in with 75-100 ft lbs. just trying out some new stuff since I’ll be taking things over more in the department. Want to be accurate and safe if possible.
Where can we go to access the tip of the day .pdf information sheets?
www.haascnc.com/video/Video-Bonus-Content.html
what is the proper way to mount pie jaws?
Bro I am using S00 MO3 to spindle lock then tighten the screw
Hello. I have a new ST-25Y but did not see that model mentioned in the bonus PDF.
10” standard Main Spindle Chuck, 12” Optional. Along with an optional 5” chuck on the sun-spindle. We missed this one in the Bonus content! We’ll update that sheet on the site. Thanks. You can also see Chuck Sizes on the Build-and-Price pages for each lathe model. www.haascnc.com/machines/lathes/st.html
@@markterryberry4477 Thanks! For a moment I was worried that my model had been discontinued (perhaps in favor of the ST-28Y) before my HFO even finished setting it up! But I checked and saw that it was still configurable, plus I know it’s a big seller. Mine has every option including the 12-inch chuck.
I am trying to teach myself machining on this and the UMC-750 I also purchased, based pretty much on watching your videos. I have a hundred pages of notes I’ve made from them. It’s a very fun process.
I have a question.
which code should I use with M99 to let the machine run a certain number of bits and then stop if I use (gripX + rod) ???! (ST 10Y) lathe
I hopp someone help my,😌😁
3:23 are 10.8 bolts good enough?
No. Not for chuck jaws. All of the chuck manufacturers require class 12.9 for these.
I've got a Fanuc lathe and the control literally has a button to lock the spindle for jaw changing. Also, that imperial bolt marking, as retarded as everything imperial.
How to made jaws for hex job
For Hex Stock, we can use special Hex collets, if running a collet chuck, or simply use 3 pointed jaws if using a chuck jaw and loading material by hand. If running a bar feeder with hex stock, I'd much prefer running a hex collet as they have chamfers on the backside of the collet to help the material align on entry. We can orient the spindle (specific angle) when loading a new bar, but this isn't always necessary if the inside of the collet has a nice chamfer, and if we have chamfered the ends of the bars. Special Hexagon spindle liners are available, but usually aren't necessary.
Yeah just use a cheater bar. They work pretty good lol
🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸SIOP🇺🇸💩🇺🇸