It's funny I've done this for a living for 15 years and still like these videos. I share these videos with our plant manager trying to get him to bring some Hass in and educate him a bit so he knows more about the machining process.
Самый информативный производитель станков с ПУ, понятно что обучающие видео ориентированы на освоение их станков, но такая подача профильной темы, с такими объяснениями только у них, ну и молодцы Абамет стали потихоньку переводить их видео, не все конечно, но хоть что-то, лучше конечно чтобы следом за англоязычным видео выходили с русским переводом, Haas продолжайте в том же духе!
Wow finally a video that explains so well. I’ve been looking for one for a long time. I had t pause it to comprehend how Much knowledge I’m absorbing so easily and quickly
we have st20y on my work place, and no one has no idea how to use it, and the one guy that has slight idea what he is doing , he is not sharing knowledge... So thank you very much for making this publicly available.
I have been waiting for this video my last 3 years teaching machine tool technology at a community college!!!! I always have a hard time explaining this process to my students. Now I have a video to do it for me! It seemed as if Mark even had a difficult time explaining it. This process is extremely difficult for newbies to understand!
Thanks, helpful tips. If you don't have a hole, but you need to measure a boring bar you can run the spindle in reverse and skim the OD of the part. Then you can input the negative of the diameter you measure. Though this only works if you have enough X axis travel
Yeah we touch the left side of the threading insert on the right side of the probe. Then when we program, we just add in the extra .100 to the desired length of threads in the program.
I use the tip of the thread insert, and always handle the tool in to check the Z clearance on any shoulders. I eyeball it right until there is almost no daylight, and offset it accordingly. Trust nothing, do your math, and "dry run"... even if it takes another 20 minutes. Don't wait until you've started a thread cycle to figure out of you'll clear a face.
On threading tool the Z value programming in front of the insert is more logical, because on drawing we have this dimension. And on this manner we are sure the threading tool dont interfer with the second face
I touch my boring bars off to the back side of the machined surface and just use a negative diameter value. Also for drills you can use a guage pin and a feeler guage to find the offset.
Thks Mark. On Classic control we used to have F2 button set centerline tools as it was always the same number from home. Or the old magic marker number on the door.
We still have that on newer NGC lathes, in fact we've added a second X preset as well, so with one-button we can set the X position for common VDI tools, or BOT tools, or say an axial static tool and an axial Live tool. Great topic for a video, thx.
@@markterryberry4477 thanks Mark. I also like to "dry run" my program without part after graphics prove out. to make sure I'm not going to hit the jaws with coolant shut off. Its so hard to see inside the lathe.
Chat I need help understanding G54. My trainer isn’t really explaining or doing a great job. I understand you face off the X and Z with the roughing tool. Is that when you enter G54? Already touched off all my tools boring bad, drill, thread, rougher, and finisher. Thanks again.
haha you are smart .. I use to set the work offset with a tool that have zero length when the probe is out of order.. but then i have to manually add the work offset to every tool instead.. This method is alot faster and less frustrating ;)
While I have the ATP and it's not been a problem, but would be good to show a good method for manually touching off an opposite-hand tool for back-cutting and so-on. My gut says take a flat surface (gauge block for example) and press it against the cut reference surface, then touch off of that. But wondering if there's something I'm missing. Also for a neutral cut tool, say a V-type, is the method basically going to be the same as shown for a threading tool? Touch off the side of the holder then offset a further amount based on the edge to CL value? I feel like there would have to be some amount of maybe dialing that in depending on just how on-the-nose everything is.
I can’t like this video enough. I’ve been waiting for this for 1 year. I’ve been fumbling around with my new ST 15 and not really used it for very much this last year. I finish daily jobs on my manual lathe. My proposed use for the lathe is for a family of parts and the same tools will be set up all the time. If I turn the machine off, when it homes next time on startup will the limit switches always give the exact same result so that I don’t need to reset the tool offsets? I have the automatic pre-setter but I’m nowhere near to figuring that out. I think I messed up the calibration on it entering some incorrect numbers.
Its really worth getting to know the pre-setter and how to calibrate it. You don't have to re-set tooling on every job (just the face offset of course) every time you power up. Are you on New Gen ?
@@mjohns5944 how are the home switches for accuracy? If you turned off the lathe would you use the presetter after homing to reset offsets for each tool or could the home switches be trusted to find consistent home positions?
@@billknighton4181 Yes no problem. You have to do the startup when power on and that sets everything back up. You should not have to re set tools after power up. I go for days on ultra precise form rolls without re setting tools....just slight offset adjustments. The ST15 is a great machine. I had one for a year and it held size.
I’ve studied that manual again and again and found it to be useless for this. I got basically the same information as this video from experimenting over several sessions. I greatly appreciate the video validating most of what I had figured out and correcting one thing. I feel free to really use the lathe now. I was reluctant and in my daily work I’m usually barely on time so it’s always been faster just to finish the part on the manual lathe.
Great video! I'm having a problem jogging the Z axis with the door open. I need to be able to jog and use the feeler gauge at the same time. The machine won't let me jog with the door open. Do I need to be in another mode? I'm using a TL-1 lathe.
Threading setup, indexing from leading edge (for tool clearance), or apex of tool (center)? As a newbie, but techie -- why not BOTH? I haven't as yet setup my tools (for manual tool changer, via Mach3, yep a hobbyist) -- but why not two setup profiles (aka alias or synonym) for the same physical tool? (for manual tools, not a biggie since I would just reload the common physical tool when required -- but it may take some additional programming ;) for you big guys with the fancy equipment -- I may even get a kick back for a new idea??? :) ) Personally, I would think going with the center/apex (on threading, eg) is the best route, and deal with what you're trying to accomplish as part of a greater tool/collision avoidance algorithm.
We are having issues with part counting on our ST15..It use to work but since software updates to rectify software bugs the ability to use part counts has gone. We have a bar feeder with this machine and trying to keep accurate part counts is proving a right pain. We have enquired about Macros but Haas want around £2-3k which is a huge amount for what was initially free with the 'old gen' controllers.
Just starting on a Haas ST30 SSY, I set my tool offsets exactly as demonstrated. I wrote the program exactly as demonstrated except that my diameter is 1" so I entered X1.1. When I run the program the tool stops 1" away from my work piece, why??
What about the trick of setting a boring bar on the far side of the part. You can spin the chuck backwards, take a cut on the OD of the part and measure it with a mic. Then whatever number you measure just put a negative sign for x diameter measure.
Nice! If its a small part and the machine has the travel, that method is really quick. If we know the O.D. of the chuck itself, you can also hold a gage block (or 123 block) against the top of the chuck, and then jog the I.D. Boring bar up to the block, sliding the block back-and-forth until you feel the bar make contact, and then X DIA MEAS, and enter the O.D. of the chuck as your diameter. There are lots of quick tricks. For drills, we'll often just touchoff on the side of the drill, and then subtract the drill diameter and the part diameter for a quick and dirty no-indicator X touchoff. We talked about adding some of these quick tricks, but the video was already getting long! Fantastic comment.
@@markterryberry4477 it's also a nice trick to use the chuck OD. :) One more thing, I never use paper. I always use precision feeler gauge for measuring! It's precise, inexpensive, never gets wet, and has some stiffness. The 0,05 mm works just fine, but the 0,1 mm is the best. You can keep a little piece underneath the caliper in the box.
Will you show me all three numbers compared with the tool offset like you did and the probe number and then with the G28 home number? the Reeson is I think that my probe may be shorting out. I can't get Z tool offset right when I use the probe. want to know where all the math is coming from. Thanks!
We just purchased a HAAS DS30Y and we’re trying to figure out how to set tool manually on the sub spindle. Sometimes we can’t fit the turret and tool behind the touch probe. Can you explain how to do that please?
i am fighting the same problem ive ran alot of dual spindles but i am fighting the sub spindle on this machine i can get tools set right or get g55 right on this machine i do just fine on the main spindle
let’s say I faced my part and set z zero there but wanted to have the real z zero 0.010” deeper. Maybe I want a programmed cut on the face instead of one that I just jogged. For superior finish. Would I set the work offset at 0.010”?
Minus the .010" from your work offset G54. This is what I do. touch off all tools to the initial machined surface and use z face measure. Then minus the amount of additional cleanup desired on your G54.
For drills, we usually set our X Tool Offset at the center of the tool holder with an indicator, before we ever install the drill. On Haas Machines this value can be stored, and recalled by pressing F2 any time we use an on-center tool like a drill or ream in that Tool Position. We'll make another video on that. A less accurate way to set the X for our drills, is to jog our drill down against the Outside Diameter of our part, set our X Diam Measure at that diameter, and then subtract the diameter of our drill from the X offset - this is quick, but less accurate.
Pro tip...On the NGC, when testing the location of the tool you just set, the M30 MUST be programmed in MDI. The classic controls didn't need this, but the NGC will move the tool in the positive x direction. 45 min it took me to figure this out.😒
It depends on the lathe. If you have a BOT Turret, there will be small eccentric Cams, under the BOT holders, that can be adjusted to bring a holder in, in the Y. On a Y-axis lathe, its really simple, we just enter in the Y machine position on the Tool Offset page, and call up Y0 each time we run the tool. On a TL with a Tool Post, we'll use the old machinist trick of pinching our machinist scale in between our turning tool and the part, and adjust the Tool up/down until the scale is pointing vertically (or a little positive rake). Lots of options, depending on your exact setup.
Great topic. We touch on this here: ruclips.net/video/Yo1J5XWy78Y/видео.html, and ruclips.net/video/M-L7gzR9XBk/видео.html. Our Lathe Tool Probing cycles are excellent on the newer NGC controls, for live-tooling as well now. the probe makes touching off live-tooling really easy.
Was probing haas st20, then when I press the cycle start for the probing it changed into another tool instead of probing the tool in intended, what could be the cause!? I broke the Probe! Not good at all.
On the lathe, the spindle turns, while the tap/drill stays still. If the drill/tap were off center a lot it would break. If the drill is off center by a little bit, then the hole gets drilled oversized.
To command a tool to a Machine Position (ignoring any Tool Offset), we would use a G53. Check out this video for more information on Lathe G53 use ruclips.net/video/G2uqdHiodDI/видео.html
on a machine like fagor you progrm whit cyclus and mix it up whit iso from cam peg .. cyclus use comp from tool tabel . cam use computer comp L/R or radius comp ../control comp ,, fuck its hard
That isn't always an option. On older machines especially it wasn't very common. Even presetters can be wrong if they've been bumped or have a sticky switch. Just don't mix preset tools with tools touched off on this fashion. That will result in bad things happening.
@@brandons9138 Yeah of course, I'm referring to the incredible setup reduction time the presetter gives you... Nowadays you can't touch off tools manually if you want to compete
@@steelfalcon2755 Manually using a presetter is not saving that large amount of time. If you have a presetter that can run on it's own using macros then it becomes a real time saver.
As far as I know, its just the convention. With the boring bar facing down, you could run into a travel issue, running out of travel on large bores. If the boring bar faced down (which is physically possible), then you would have X+ being Up for O.D. turning tools, and X+ (bigger part) being Down for boring bars - two different directions. Our standard boring bar retract directions would get weird as well. I've wondered the same thing :)
You guys show how to indicate a hole, but you did that on a mill. You need to do a video on indicating tool holders on the lathe, that is totally different having to adjust that stupid cam on the side mount for drilling con center line. Do a video on it!!!!!!!!
Adjusting those cams on BOT holders is not bad, once you've done it once - which makes it a good candidate for a video! Thanks. If you have a BOT Turret, there will be small eccentric Cams, under the BOT holders, that can be adjusted to bring a holder in, in the Y. On a Y-axis lathe, its really simple, we just enter in the Y machine position on the Tool Offset page, and call up Y0 each time we run the tool. On a TL with a Tool Post, even turning tools will need Y-adjustments, we'll use the old machinist trick of pinching our machinist scale in between our turning tool and the part, and adjust the Tool up/down until the scale is pointing vertically (or a little positive rake). Lots of options, depending on your exact setup. We'll move this up on our list.
@@raider1628 It really would be a helpful video. We'll bring it up again. Check out this link. It contains some general instructions on setting those BOT Cams. A video would still be great though. www.haascnc.com/service/troubleshooting-and-how-to/how-to/st---ds---toolholders-to-the-spindle-centerline---correction.html
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I wish more guys in shops were as cool as this guy.
It's funny I've done this for a living for 15 years and still like these videos. I share these videos with our plant manager trying to get him to bring some Hass in and educate him a bit so he knows more about the machining process.
Самый информативный производитель станков с ПУ, понятно что обучающие видео ориентированы на освоение их станков, но такая подача профильной темы, с такими объяснениями только у них, ну и молодцы Абамет стали потихоньку переводить их видео, не все конечно, но хоть что-то, лучше конечно чтобы следом за англоязычным видео выходили с русским переводом, Haas продолжайте в том же духе!
День добрый , позвольте поинтересоваться вы на токарном или фрезерном работаете ?
Wow finally a video that explains so well. I’ve been looking for one for a long time. I had t pause it to comprehend how
Much knowledge I’m absorbing so easily and quickly
we have st20y on my work place, and no one has no idea how to use it, and the one guy that has slight idea what he is doing , he is not sharing knowledge... So thank you very much for making this publicly available.
I have been waiting for this video my last 3 years teaching machine tool technology at a community college!!!! I always have a hard time explaining this process to my students. Now I have a video to do it for me! It seemed as if Mark even had a difficult time explaining it. This process is extremely difficult for newbies to understand!
It is definitely easier to explain with some great pictures!
Fairfield University Advanced Product Design class loves you!
I love the way y’all explain things 👏👏 learning a lot from y’all 🙏
This video has perfect timing. I've had a Hass TM1P for a while, but the lathe is a new beast all together.
Thanks, helpful tips. If you don't have a hole, but you need to measure a boring bar you can run the spindle in reverse and skim the OD of the part. Then you can input the negative of the diameter you measure. Though this only works if you have enough X axis travel
Yeah we touch the left side of the threading insert on the right side of the probe. Then when we program, we just add in the extra .100 to the desired length of threads in the program.
Very very helpful , thank you sir I expect more videos from you because you really explain it very well
Great vid! I'm looking forward to machining again after a layoff, and I need the refresher.Thx!
Thank you sir for very useful tips...we are waiting for video on tool nose radius compensation
I use the tip of the thread insert, and always handle the tool in to check the Z clearance on any shoulders. I eyeball it right until there is almost no daylight, and offset it accordingly. Trust nothing, do your math, and "dry run"... even if it takes another 20 minutes. Don't wait until you've started a thread cycle to figure out of you'll clear a face.
Love the Distance to go !! On lathe I also like to call the G54 a work or part Shift
On threading tool the Z value programming in front of the insert is more logical, because on drawing we have this dimension.
And on this manner we are sure the threading tool dont interfer with the second face
Can you please make a video explaining how to calibrate motorized tools manually without the measuring arm?
Please make a video or series on the TL for educators.
I touch my boring bars off to the back side of the machined surface and just use a negative diameter value. Also for drills you can use a guage pin and a feeler guage to find the offset.
Can you explain how you set the drill?
Thks Mark. On Classic control we used to have F2 button set centerline tools as it was always the same number from home. Or the old magic marker number on the door.
We still have that on newer NGC lathes, in fact we've added a second X preset as well, so with one-button we can set the X position for common VDI tools, or BOT tools, or say an axial static tool and an axial Live tool. Great topic for a video, thx.
@@markterryberry4477 thanks Mark. I also like to "dry run" my program without part after graphics prove out. to make sure I'm not going to hit the jaws with coolant shut off. Its so hard to see inside the lathe.
@mark terryberry can we get more Haas Lathe G Code like first 9 lines and g96 g97 stuff
@@markterryberry4477 @mark terryberry can we get more Haas Lathe G Code like first 9 lines and g96 g97 stuff
@@pokeyboy1 filming G71 today, just for you Pokey :)
Good learning program about tool offsets and programming method .
A video just like this one except for the B Axis ( Sub Spindle ) setup would be marvelous.
Here is the Subspindle Video you recommended that we make, thanks for the suggestion. ruclips.net/video/9NyRlxiHi6g/видео.html
Chat I need help understanding G54. My trainer isn’t really explaining or doing a great job. I understand you face off the X and Z with the roughing tool. Is that when you enter G54? Already touched off all my tools boring bad, drill, thread, rougher, and finisher. Thanks again.
haha you are smart .. I use to set the work offset with a tool that have zero length when the probe is out of order.. but then i have to manually add the work offset to every tool instead.. This method is alot faster and less frustrating ;)
Excellent video .. very educational
Thanks my friend.
While I have the ATP and it's not been a problem, but would be good to show a good method for manually touching off an opposite-hand tool for back-cutting and so-on.
My gut says take a flat surface (gauge block for example) and press it against the cut reference surface, then touch off of that. But wondering if there's something I'm missing.
Also for a neutral cut tool, say a V-type, is the method basically going to be the same as shown for a threading tool? Touch off the side of the holder then offset a further amount based on the edge to CL value? I feel like there would have to be some amount of maybe dialing that in depending on just how on-the-nose everything is.
I can’t like this video enough. I’ve been waiting for this for 1 year. I’ve been fumbling around with my new ST 15 and not really used it for very much this last year. I finish daily jobs on my manual lathe.
My proposed use for the lathe is for a family of parts and the same tools will be set up all the time. If I turn the machine off, when it homes next time on startup will the limit switches always give the exact same result so that I don’t need to reset the tool offsets? I have the automatic pre-setter but I’m nowhere near to figuring that out. I think I messed up the calibration on it entering some incorrect numbers.
Its really worth getting to know the pre-setter and how to calibrate it. You don't have to re-set tooling on every job (just the face offset of course) every time you power up. Are you on New Gen ?
@@mjohns5944 how are the home switches for accuracy?
If you turned off the lathe would you use the presetter after homing to reset offsets for each tool or could the home switches be trusted to find consistent home positions?
@@billknighton4181 Yes no problem. You have to do the startup when power on and that sets everything back up. You should not have to re set tools after power up. I go for days on ultra precise form rolls without re setting tools....just slight offset adjustments. The ST15 is a great machine. I had one for a year and it held size.
I literally just did all that lol thanks for the refreshment
Can you teach us how to setup cutting tool for ID and considering the cutter is not hitting the chuck while machine is running?
Vary educational videos, and you're a good teacher
Спасибо, отличные видео!
Good teaching
lol, I got my first lathe 2 weeks ago and was wondering why there wasn't a video on how to manually set tools .... spoke too soon
it does tell you in the manual
I’ve studied that manual again and again and found it to be useless for this. I got basically the same information as this video from experimenting over several sessions. I greatly appreciate the video validating most of what I had figured out and correcting one thing. I feel free to really use the lathe now. I was reluctant and in my daily work I’m usually barely on time so it’s always been faster just to finish the part on the manual lathe.
@@billknighton4181 I was the same way. I had figured it out by messing around but its nice to hear haas say it
I started making my first lathe part last week and I could have REALLY used this video lol. Just need to add my tool tip radiuses now.
@@billknighton4181 there's nothing in this video that isn't in the manuals that come with the machine.
Great video! I'm having a problem jogging the Z axis with the door open. I need to be able to jog and use the feeler gauge at the same time. The machine won't let me jog with the door open. Do I need to be in another mode? I'm using a TL-1 lathe.
One of the best 👏👏👏👏👌
Threading setup, indexing from leading edge (for tool clearance), or apex of tool (center)?
As a newbie, but techie -- why not BOTH? I haven't as yet setup my tools (for manual tool changer, via Mach3, yep a hobbyist) -- but why not two setup profiles (aka alias or synonym) for the same physical tool? (for manual tools, not a biggie since I would just reload the common physical tool when required -- but it may take some additional programming ;) for you big guys with the fancy equipment -- I may even get a kick back for a new idea??? :) ) Personally, I would think going with the center/apex (on threading, eg) is the best route, and deal with what you're trying to accomplish as part of a greater tool/collision avoidance algorithm.
This is very good lesson classe
excellent video, great information
Thanks for your videos
Good video. Just wish we had macro's..... for part counting
We are having issues with part counting on our ST15..It use to work but since software updates to rectify software bugs the ability to use part counts has gone. We have a bar feeder with this machine and trying to keep accurate part counts is proving a right pain. We have enquired about Macros but Haas want around £2-3k which is a huge amount for what was initially free with the 'old gen' controllers.
Do a video of how to probe turning drill in offset page. Please
Should tool offsets be measured when the coordinate origin is zero or it doesn't matter?
Hello, is x value of 8.72 inches the distance between spindle axis and home position ?
Great clarity..👍
Just starting on a Haas ST30 SSY, I set my tool offsets exactly as demonstrated. I wrote the program exactly as demonstrated except that my diameter is 1" so I entered X1.1. When I run the program the tool stops 1" away from my work piece, why??
Wow, we really should do these videos for our machines too.
What about the trick of setting a boring bar on the far side of the part. You can spin the chuck backwards, take a cut on the OD of the part and measure it with a mic. Then whatever number you measure just put a negative sign for x diameter measure.
I use the same method as you do.
It works with indexable drills too, which are capable to be used as boring bars.
Nice! If its a small part and the machine has the travel, that method is really quick. If we know the O.D. of the chuck itself, you can also hold a gage block (or 123 block) against the top of the chuck, and then jog the I.D. Boring bar up to the block, sliding the block back-and-forth until you feel the bar make contact, and then X DIA MEAS, and enter the O.D. of the chuck as your diameter. There are lots of quick tricks. For drills, we'll often just touchoff on the side of the drill, and then subtract the drill diameter and the part diameter for a quick and dirty no-indicator X touchoff. We talked about adding some of these quick tricks, but the video was already getting long! Fantastic comment.
@@markterryberry4477 it's also a nice trick to use the chuck OD. :)
One more thing, I never use paper. I always use precision feeler gauge for measuring! It's precise, inexpensive, never gets wet, and has some stiffness. The 0,05 mm works just fine, but the 0,1 mm is the best.
You can keep a little piece underneath the caliper in the box.
@@arpadbrecska8178 yes, 0.1mm is the best, we've used it for years.
@@zyndapp800 I've been using mine for 5 years now! By storing in the caliper's box, I can do any set-up with only one "toolbox".
Will you show me all three numbers compared with the tool offset like you did and the probe number and then with the G28 home number? the Reeson is I think that my probe may be shorting out. I can't get Z tool offset right when I use the probe. want to know where all the math is coming from. Thanks!
Only thing I’d change is setting the boring tool on the OD by running in reverse
14:26 it will exact if you cut that speed and feed and last move +z
How are you able to hand jog with the door open?
We just purchased a HAAS DS30Y and we’re trying to figure out how to set tool manually on the sub spindle. Sometimes we can’t fit the turret and tool behind the touch probe. Can you explain how to do that please?
i am fighting the same problem ive ran alot of dual spindles but i am fighting the sub spindle on this machine i can get tools set right or get g55 right on this machine i do just fine on the main spindle
Take a look at this video, for more info on setting tools for our secondary spindle: ruclips.net/video/9NyRlxiHi6g/видео.html
let’s say I faced my part and set z zero there but wanted to have the real z zero 0.010” deeper. Maybe I want a programmed cut on the face instead of one that I just jogged. For superior finish. Would I set the work offset at 0.010”?
Minus the .010" from your work offset G54. This is what I do. touch off all tools to the initial machined surface and use z face measure. Then minus the amount of additional cleanup desired on your G54.
Yes G54 z-.010.
very informative video. but I am still confused to take drill x offset
For drills, we usually set our X Tool Offset at the center of the tool holder with an indicator, before we ever install the drill. On Haas Machines this value can be stored, and recalled by pressing F2 any time we use an on-center tool like a drill or ream in that Tool Position. We'll make another video on that. A less accurate way to set the X for our drills, is to jog our drill down against the Outside Diameter of our part, set our X Diam Measure at that diameter, and then subtract the diameter of our drill from the X offset - this is quick, but less accurate.
I always subtract the work offset to the z face measure does RESET do this for me?
X in diameter is funny. I wonder if any shops do things strictly in radius 😁
Great thank you
Pro tip...On the NGC, when testing the location of the tool you just set, the M30 MUST be programmed in MDI. The classic controls didn't need this, but the NGC will move the tool in the positive x direction. 45 min it took me to figure this out.😒
What about setting a threading insert on a TL lathe?
I wish I had a modern cnc. These old ones have a bit more "character".
Is the Haas website working yet?
What do you do if the Y needs to be adjusted when indicating a tool holder?
It depends on the lathe. If you have a BOT Turret, there will be small eccentric Cams, under the BOT holders, that can be adjusted to bring a holder in, in the Y. On a Y-axis lathe, its really simple, we just enter in the Y machine position on the Tool Offset page, and call up Y0 each time we run the tool. On a TL with a Tool Post, we'll use the old machinist trick of pinching our machinist scale in between our turning tool and the part, and adjust the Tool up/down until the scale is pointing vertically (or a little positive rake). Lots of options, depending on your exact setup.
in mori seiki for thread tool touch off in z axis i used left side wall of thread insert used for z.
Maybe a part two for live tooling?
Great topic. We touch on this here: ruclips.net/video/Yo1J5XWy78Y/видео.html, and ruclips.net/video/M-L7gzR9XBk/видео.html. Our Lathe Tool Probing cycles are excellent on the newer NGC controls, for live-tooling as well now. the probe makes touching off live-tooling really easy.
Knurl tool also
Only beef, at the end you didn't mention that read out is in diameter but movement is in radius on x only. Huge mental barrier for new operators imo.
Was probing haas st20, then when I press the cycle start for the probing it changed into another tool instead of probing the tool in intended, what could be the cause!? I broke the Probe! Not good at all.
It never happened to me before, now I experience something never expected!
GREAT
For drills, taps and reams why does the centre of the tool and holder need to be on centre, aligned with the spindle centreline?
On the lathe, the spindle turns, while the tap/drill stays still. If the drill/tap were off center a lot it would break. If the drill is off center by a little bit, then the hole gets drilled oversized.
Sir can u describe densah burs drills geometry
What work offset do you use for setting tools to machine 0
To command a tool to a Machine Position (ignoring any Tool Offset), we would use a G53. Check out this video for more information on Lathe G53 use ruclips.net/video/G2uqdHiodDI/видео.html
@@markterryberry4477 I would like to discuss this work offset thing with you. I also have questions on thread tool setup
Very helpfull
6:55 no. usually everything else than haas has inside tool x0 and other tool difference from that lol and tool z is difference from turrent face
I always set threading tool to the face its going to or imaginary face, never trust touching part face to set it in
case length is wrong :)
How to cut INC and Metrics OD and ID thread's with thread's cuter
Why does the video editor feel like flashing the screen after every scenario change ?
How i can on C axis works offset measure
Make a video at tool knowlage.
Hanzhen harmonic drive gear , strain wave reducer, robot joint , over 30 years experience
TERRYBERRY IS THE GOD OF CNC
I dont understand about G54
Itu titik perpindahan dari Chuck ke ujung materia!
Where's the pdf?
All like in sovivet books for soviet lathe from 1970's... I’m totally shocked.
Será que teremos um dia videos em espanhol ou Português, será!!!
👍👍👍👍👍
on a machine like fagor you progrm whit cyclus and mix it up whit iso from cam peg .. cyclus use comp from tool tabel . cam use computer comp L/R or radius comp ../control comp ,, fuck its hard
let make video when you setup new tool and G54 Z not = 0.
🇧🇷Daniel Machado - Brazi🌎l🇺🇸
0:42 haas need so much to just cut ha
21:50 you will need these. tool setter you not need lol
tip of the day: get the automatic tool setter
That isn't always an option. On older machines especially it wasn't very common. Even presetters can be wrong if they've been bumped or have a sticky switch. Just don't mix preset tools with tools touched off on this fashion. That will result in bad things happening.
@@brandons9138 Yeah of course, I'm referring to the incredible setup reduction time the presetter gives you... Nowadays you can't touch off tools manually if you want to compete
@@steelfalcon2755 Manually using a presetter is not saving that large amount of time. If you have a presetter that can run on it's own using macros then it becomes a real time saver.
@@brandons9138 I believe that it can do that... Also automatic breakage detection
@@steelfalcon2755 bet I can manually touch tools off as quick as you on a probe..we have both and have done it many times
X is diameter for haas lathes , or for all lathes?
Almost all lathes X is diameter. I'm not sure about a vertical lathe. I've never run one, or even seen one in person.
this video in spanish ? doesn't exist? :(
This is how we run it on the okuma lathe lol
Да привязка везде одинаковая. Если ещё и ренишоу есть.
День добрый , позволь поинтересоваться вы на токарном ЧПУ работаете ?
@@АлексейРоманенко-х1ц да .
Why are boring tools always pointing up? Just a convention?
As far as I know, its just the convention. With the boring bar facing down, you could run into a travel issue, running out of travel on large bores. If the boring bar faced down (which is physically possible), then you would have X+ being Up for O.D. turning tools, and X+ (bigger part) being Down for boring bars - two different directions. Our standard boring bar retract directions would get weird as well. I've wondered the same thing :)
3:02 wrong. it can be change from parameter to radius. if want lol
You guys show how to indicate a hole, but you did that on a mill. You need to do a video on indicating tool holders on the lathe, that is totally different having to adjust that stupid cam on the side mount for drilling con center line. Do a video on it!!!!!!!!
Adjusting those cams on BOT holders is not bad, once you've done it once - which makes it a good candidate for a video! Thanks. If you have a BOT Turret, there will be small eccentric Cams, under the BOT holders, that can be adjusted to bring a holder in, in the Y. On a Y-axis lathe, its really simple, we just enter in the Y machine position on the Tool Offset page, and call up Y0 each time we run the tool. On a TL with a Tool Post, even turning tools will need Y-adjustments, we'll use the old machinist trick of pinching our machinist scale in between our turning tool and the part, and adjust the Tool up/down until the scale is pointing vertically (or a little positive rake). Lots of options, depending on your exact setup. We'll move this up on our list.
@@markterryberry4477 video will be awesome!
I run a 2-axis st-30. Adjusting that cam to try and dial in center for drilling is a pain!
@@raider1628 It really would be a helpful video. We'll bring it up again. Check out this link. It contains some general instructions on setting those BOT Cams. A video would still be great though. www.haascnc.com/service/troubleshooting-and-how-to/how-to/st---ds---toolholders-to-the-spindle-centerline---correction.html
0:36 some... BODY ONCE TOLD ME...