@@SeanMcKenzie-mt5ml you have to ask for a flatbed, wrecker won't work but they can get you with a flatbed...you can remove the front bumper to make it easier most tow guys who are good will be able to get you
My 98 d16y8 civic left me stranded a while ago and i also thought it was my fuel pump but after copious amounts or research and a lot of tinkering i found out that it was the negative spade terminal inside the distributor that had corroded so much that it wasnt getting any connection. I had terrible idle, lack of power, longer than normal crank, and eventually just no start at all. But after i bought a new terminal and coil it worked great. I would definitely take a look if you havent already.
@jarekmai yup, always change Spark plugs if you have a 1. Misfire in the ignition or eletricals 2. Check if it runs with poor gasoline milages if it does still run it's not the wire harnesses
Dont over complicate it, what does the car throttle pedal responds on to give the power when you need it/ if you have a volt meter / ohmmeter check sensor/voltage that your throttle rely on for throttle response (Throttle Position Sensor TPS) MAF is the car reading the correct airflow) The car is running so it has to do with something relating to throttle response (Since your car has a distributor Did the distributor jump timing) are your spark plug wires loosing spark) Simplify It yk i mean Focus on what Car needs for throttle response This where i would start My car had similar issues turned out to be Bad MAF (Try disconnecting the MAF & start the car without it, rev it out see if it revs past where it is)
1. Chat gpt the problem. 2. use obd scanner. 3. If the obd doesnt work and you have a p28 CPU so you can check the problem by pressing gas and counting the check engine.
To check for codes OBD1 style you gotta put the key to the ON position and jump the service plug by where the ECU goes. It's green I believe. Use a wire or paperclip to jump the terminals. Then it's gonna make the check engine light blink. The slow blinks=10, fast blinks=1. So two slow blinks and a fast blink would =21.
Years ago, I used to own a fbo 1991 Integra LS, and after doing a few hard pulls on the highway one night, it did the same thing. It lost its power, just like that. I had it towed home, and i sold it on craigslist that week. The new owner contacted me and said that there was a spun bearing. I'm not sure if it was the rod bearing or main bearing, but maybe it's something worth checking.
Check fuel pressure at the rail. Pull the plugs and check for discoloration on one cylinder. Cable throttles don’t have a TPS. If the IACV & FITV & Idle air screw have been cleaned and adjusted recently it is probably the MAF sensor that went bad. Unplug it and start the car and see if power comes back. Then put in a new one. Also check the rotor pack in the dizzy. The metal can wear down and cause a miss on all cylinders. There’s no smoke out the exhaust so it couldn’t be rings or gaskets.
@@Gen10civic shoot it happened to me on my 94 integra back in the day and I thought it jumped timing! I’d definitely recommend him starting with the simple stuff and work his way through.
Check the timing, it might’ve skipped a tooth, had the same thing happen to my ef civic, fuel was good, but no power, checked the timing marks and it was off by a tooth and belt was slightly loose, issue was fixed right after I retimed it and tensioned it
Check your ignition systems , dizzy, plugs, wires , etc. Next check your fueling. New fuel pump good, move up to the fuel filter , check rail pressure. If that's good check air intake , manifold for any vacuum leaks etc. Of course check for codes first and fix those issues first.
Hey I’m a mechanic and I had a Honda like that and also deal with them still regularly and 75% of the time the distributor is the issue when they don’t run right. Not only does it have regular distributor issues like corrosion but it has the cam sensor inside which goes bad a lot and even seen the distributor shaft break
Im 16 and just started working on my own project civic but I had a similar issue and figured out it was the Idle Air Control Valve, id try cleaning it or replacing the whole part and see if that would work out. Love your videos by the way!
This same thing was happening on my 04 Mazda 6. It ended up being the MAF sensor. I thought it was the fuel pump too, but replacing it didn’t make a difference. Try unplugging the MAF and see if the car runs better. That could be all it is!
Reminds my of my old prelude it lost a wheel on the highway, later broke a timing belt again on the highway and after selling it got wrecked. I don’t miss it
I lost a wheel once driving, lug nuts snapped right off. My wheel continued to roll into on coming traffic and hit a car. It hit the car directly in the front, so fast that it launched the guys car into the sky like hitting a ramp lol
sounds like a fuel problem, try clean the injector and got a new fuel filter that under the hood for me its behind the intake manifold.its sad to see your nice car broke down. Goodluck bro!
@@jarekmai I would say though check the throttle cable and if that doesn’t fix it then it might be a more serious issue and be worth taking it to a mechanic good luck though 👍
Don't know if you mentioned it, but it might be a good idea to check your fuel filter Also you could try pulling the fuel supply line to the fuel rail off and run it into a bucket to see if its flowing properly
@@jarekmai Take off your catalic convertor from your headers and run it, cuz it might have a clogged in it. So its restricting it and giving it back pressure...
Check your ignition coils, and o2 sensors!!!! Had to have my fuel pump replaced recently in my ‘08 Camry. It’s a bih fr, and when an ignition coil goes out. I had a new NGK coil cause cylinder #1 misfire, and I had no power, making it up hills was beyond difficult. Salute to the locksmith 🔒 🫡
Check your distributor, the guts on the inside can go bad. you dont need to buy a whole new dizzy, just buy the replacement parts. Another thing to look out for is your O2 Sensors bank 1 and bank 2 might be bad. Next thing is to check your fuel injectors. I hope these help!
@@jarekmai I'm more familiar with the obd1 cars sorry I can't be more help but if you have a junkyard near you go nab a bunch of stuff and try all the little easy to replace things like map/maf/O2 sensors first. Junkyard trip would make great content! Best of luck to you homie thanks for all the laughs
@@jarekmai block off the EGR valve from the intake if you haven't already tried that, just to eliminate that possibility. Spray brake clean all over and around where the intake meets the head and if the idle drops or it stalls you have an intake leak. If the leak/issue is from any of the valves on the intake and not where the runners meet the head you can block them off temporarily to get you around. 👍
I would first test the injector with a multimeter the throttle body position sensor and the MAP sensor. If all that stuff is good go over the ignition system distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs.
Had the same problem on my mitsubishi People said timing belt or spark plugs etc Took it to a mechanic they checked the car for a whole day and it was just dirty fuel lines and sensors. So they just cleaned out everything and it worked great
Damn I wish I knew what it could be... Ive never had a Honda before so I can't say what it is, I have a 2009 WRX Hatch that also has a lot of problems..
Could be throttle cable? I would guess could totally be timing i would triple check it. Maybe airflow sensor if your car has one... I wluld check any and all sensors in general
@@jarekmaiplease do cause I'm curious as what the issue is... I would also try and do a compression test because if it is timing related I know that D series engines are interference engines so you could have tapped or bent some valves which would explain why it makes no power exhaust sounds wrong.
Going thru this right now too , my CRV broke down now im stuck with my subie Sti ,haha basically playing russian roulette daily until my RD1 comes back lol
I realized you bought a swapped civic.. hatches never came in an ex model so we never got vtec. Z6 is from an eg si or ex.. they say you should never buy a car that’s been vested on or swapped. Always buy oem/stock from an old person or you’ll have problems like this and your Miata!! There’s a reason why the guy was selling the civic/miata
had this problem in my first ek when I was living on the east coast. it was a bad fuel filter made my car sputter everywhere. when I went up hills it would die lol. this was back in 2005
Follow rules of air, fuel, and spark. Check over everything! I’m sure it’ll appear outta nowhere and you’ll have it running in no time!
Thanks for the tip! Definitely do the basics first ✊
@@jarekmai hope you figure it out soon! Good luck!
Also adding on from air, fuel and spark, you should check compression and timing too!
I suggest everyone having AAA membership
Low key 😂
@@jarekmai saved me several times just getting that tow home and not having to go out of pocket for it. Our cars are old, you never know
Definitely. Awesome if you ever lock your keys in the car.
@@drivingdaily582they don’t tow static cars tho so I can’t use them only if I run out of gas 😭
@@SeanMcKenzie-mt5ml you have to ask for a flatbed, wrecker won't work but they can get you with a flatbed...you can remove the front bumper to make it easier most tow guys who are good will be able to get you
That daily like “ oh u spent all that money on that 💩 box and instead of me? Ok ima show u!”
I’m dead 😂
this shit real , whenever i say other car is nice or cool like wishing to have one..the next day my own car will have problem 😂😂
@@irulkawa1984cars have feeling too 😂
Hondas are the best shut up
My 98 d16y8 civic left me stranded a while ago and i also thought it was my fuel pump but after copious amounts or research and a lot of tinkering i found out that it was the negative spade terminal inside the distributor that had corroded so much that it wasnt getting any connection. I had terrible idle, lack of power, longer than normal crank, and eventually just no start at all. But after i bought a new terminal and coil it worked great. I would definitely take a look if you havent already.
Ill definitely give it a try!
Mine did that too me as I drove loss of power even though my gauge and radio worked it was my fuel regulator on the fuel rail
It could be the mass airflow sensor, I had a similar problem with my car and the MAF was the problem
It would still rev
hondas that year rely on manifold absolute pressure sensors not mass air flow sensors.
this car doesnt have a maf only map
Or ignition coils. A bad one caused
Bad idling, and no power too.
try sparkplugs wires and coilpack it could make it misfire and run weak
I’ll check it out!
@jarekmai yup, always change Spark plugs if you have a 1. Misfire in the ignition or eletricals 2. Check if it runs with poor gasoline milages if it does still run it's not the wire harnesses
Dont over complicate it, what does the car throttle pedal responds on to give the power when you need it/ if you have a volt meter / ohmmeter check sensor/voltage that your throttle rely on for throttle response (Throttle Position Sensor TPS) MAF is the car reading the correct airflow) The car is running so it has to do with something relating to throttle response (Since your car has a distributor Did the distributor jump timing) are your spark plug wires loosing spark) Simplify It yk i mean Focus on what Car needs for throttle response This where i would start My car had similar issues turned out to be Bad MAF (Try disconnecting the MAF & start the car without it, rev it out see if it revs past where it is)
This is what I needed! I’ll definitely follow this up 🙏
@@jarekmai no problem bro process of elimination what relies on what yk i mean i met to say multimeter good luck lets us know what you find out ❤️
Theres no maf or tps on a d-series....
1. Chat gpt the problem.
2. use obd scanner.
3. If the obd doesnt work and you have a p28 CPU so you can check the problem by pressing gas and counting the check engine.
Nothing like a check engine shows up in the scanner
@@jarekmai Could be a sensor that is broken or something.
To check for codes OBD1 style you gotta put the key to the ON position and jump the service plug by where the ECU goes. It's green I believe. Use a wire or paperclip to jump the terminals. Then it's gonna make the check engine light blink. The slow blinks=10, fast blinks=1. So two slow blinks and a fast blink would =21.
@@jarekmai did you get it fixed yet ? If not I got a couple things you can check , it sounds like it needs air
@@Anthony-fc1zbthis ⬆️
Years ago, I used to own a fbo 1991 Integra LS, and after doing a few hard pulls on the highway one night, it did the same thing. It lost its power, just like that. I had it towed home, and i sold it on craigslist that week. The new owner contacted me and said that there was a spun bearing. I'm not sure if it was the rod bearing or main bearing, but maybe it's something worth checking.
I’ll definitely give this a check! 🙏
Nahhhh not on the d16z6 they’re 90% bullet proof, on the b18 tho hmmmm
@eVerProductions1 you're saying the b series is more unreliable?
@@RustyHondasd series is def more reliable in my opinion
@PeterFeltersnatch852 even a d17 bro?
dirty idle air control valve/throttle body maybe?
Those were cleaned out not too long ago
!!!
Replace idle air control I had a ek coupe with the same problem not as mad tho but when I switched it , it can normal again
@@suavthekidcame here to say the same thing, iacv
Check fuel pressure at the rail. Pull the plugs and check for discoloration on one cylinder. Cable throttles don’t have a TPS. If the IACV & FITV & Idle air screw have been cleaned and adjusted recently it is probably the MAF sensor that went bad. Unplug it and start the car and see if power comes back. Then put in a new one. Also check the rotor pack in the dizzy. The metal can wear down and cause a miss on all cylinders. There’s no smoke out the exhaust so it couldn’t be rings or gaskets.
I’m thinking it’s the rotor pack too! Happened to me with a couple civics
@@Gen10civic shoot it happened to me on my 94 integra back in the day and I thought it jumped timing! I’d definitely recommend him starting with the simple stuff and work his way through.
Good luck bro.. whatever it is
Thanks brotha!
you are definitely my go-to for understanding tricky topics! ️
Bro just buy apple care it might work for the civic 💀
LMAO
Glad you’re good, I saw when this happened and I was going to pull over to check on you, but I assumed you might have just gotten locked out. 🙏
All good ✊
Check the timing, it might’ve skipped a tooth, had the same thing happen to my ef civic, fuel was good, but no power, checked the timing marks and it was off by a tooth and belt was slightly loose, issue was fixed right after I retimed it and tensioned it
Ill try this out!
Check your ignition systems , dizzy, plugs, wires , etc. Next check your fueling. New fuel pump good, move up to the fuel filter , check rail pressure. If that's good check air intake , manifold for any vacuum leaks etc. Of course check for codes first and fix those issues first.
Thanks for the tip! I’ll definitely check it out!
Hey I’m a mechanic and I had a Honda like that and also deal with them still regularly and 75% of the time the distributor is the issue when they don’t run right. Not only does it have regular distributor issues like corrosion but it has the cam sensor inside which goes bad a lot and even seen the distributor shaft break
Ill check it out! thanks!
you should check the spark plugs
Sparks are foul but not too bad
Check your maf and if you have hondata check if your trottle position sensor is reading
Ill check it out
Maybe tps throttle position sensor? Car could be in.
Limp mode
Not yet but feels like it
Im 16 and just started working on my own project civic but I had a similar issue and figured out it was the Idle Air Control Valve, id try cleaning it or replacing the whole part and see if that would work out. Love your videos by the way!
Meth you say 👀👀👀
you like?
This same thing was happening on my 04 Mazda 6. It ended up being the MAF sensor. I thought it was the fuel pump too, but replacing it didn’t make a difference. Try unplugging the MAF and see if the car runs better. That could be all it is!
Some poor idling,maybe its the alternator for some cars,not sure
Car is whining so it could be 🤔
get carb cleaner and spray it around the engine to check for air leaks.
I’ll check 🙌
Clogged injectors, Bad dizzy, calibrate TPS if you havent, bad iacv (unplug it and start it) if it fixes it then clean it out with carb cleaner.
I’ll try this out! Thank you 🙏
Crankshaft position sensor possibly I have a feeling they tend to do that when they go bad but test it to be sure or maybe a knock sensor
Ill see
ay it happens to every car its gon be worth when its fixed
very truee
should get an accord or sum for your daily driver
👀
Compression, spark plugs, coil pack, injectors
Ill check!
i think it’s something with air flow
Maybe 🤔
Reminds my of my old prelude it lost a wheel on the highway, later broke a timing belt again on the highway and after selling it got wrecked. I don’t miss it
I lost a wheel once driving, lug nuts snapped right off. My wheel continued to roll into on coming traffic and hit a car. It hit the car directly in the front, so fast that it launched the guys car into the sky like hitting a ramp lol
My CL1 Euro R had the same issue , was the distributor , so replaced that and the leads.
I’ll check the distributor for sure!
Could be the relay, happened in my Miata it was so hard to chase
I’ll check it out
Check the upper and lower O2 sensor. Maybe the light isn’t on but that could be something
Very true! I’ll check it out 🧐
Should of tried disconecting maf semsor. When they start going out they do that disconnect it to rule it out
Ill try it out
In my personal opinion, and with pretty fair amount of Honda experience.. I say check or change Your AIC Valve or EGR purge valve relay
I’ll definitely check it out!
I suggest it’s the throttle that makes the car move on the engine
maybeeee
sounds like a fuel problem, try clean the injector and got a new fuel filter that under the hood for me its behind the intake manifold.its sad to see your nice car broke down. Goodluck bro!
I’ll check if it’s the filter 🤞
I got the exact same issue on my Corolla. Just shuts off when it gets to operating temps Lol. Damn old cars!
If you got pump just follow down like fuel lines and check relays maybe
I’ll give it a try ✊
I do uber so 2 times ive had my car towed first time i paid 25$ because it was more than 15 miles and second time nothing!
niceee
Dude, try replacing the fuel filter, my car did the same thing and I replaced fuel filter. Fixed the problem 👍
Fuel filter has been replaced 😭
Reminds me of when my transmission blew up 😂
😂😂
@@jarekmai I would say though check the throttle cable and if that doesn’t fix it then it might be a more serious issue and be worth taking it to a mechanic good luck though 👍
With the idle surging up and down a little.. I suggest checking your IACV and/or your maf sensor
Could be
Might be jumped timing or cam sensor
Thats what im thinking
it sounded like a misfire you should check the spark plugs
I’ll check
im so sorry this happened man. not knowing what is wrong with your car is so scary. I hope you figure it out!
I hope so too! Miata stuff coming 😈
chris fix might have something on it. im not that smart with cars but it is the throttle body?
Don't know if you mentioned it, but it might be a good idea to check your fuel filter
Also you could try pulling the fuel supply line to the fuel rail off and run it into a bucket to see if its flowing properly
Ill give it a shot
Its your dizzy, pull the distributor cap off if you see oil or orange dust its cooked for sure.
I’ll check it out !
Check the inside of the tank for rust, and then check the fuel lines that they arent clogged
I’ll check ✊
Have you try turning up to throttle body. Engine get fuel but now enough air
I’ll check
Yes @@jarekmai check that. I drive a Nissan u14 (1996 bluebird) and that was what happened to me.
Also I had one EK before but my dad driving it now
Take off the exhaust manifold and pipe maybe it’s a big leak, just did a head gasket replace on my d17
I’ll check to see if it got a leak
@@jarekmai Take off your catalic convertor from your headers and run it, cuz it might have a clogged in it. So its restricting it and giving it back pressure...
It’s sounds like the air filter it’s dirty and air flow is too low check that my friend 🤙🏼
Filter is clean 🧼
Maybe mass airflow sensor is failing or some cylinder is missfiring idk could be a lot of things 🥶
alot of things for sure
so sad to see the civic break down. hope you get it running soon.
Same here brotha ✊
Check your ignition coils, and o2 sensors!!!! Had to have my fuel pump replaced recently in my ‘08 Camry. It’s a bih fr, and when an ignition coil goes out. I had a new NGK coil cause cylinder #1 misfire, and I had no power, making it up hills was beyond difficult.
Salute to the locksmith 🔒 🫡
Had a problem like that upgraded my fuel pump aswell but ended up being the main relay same problem
It’s simple doesn’t hurt to check
If you’re not getting any codes I’d suggest throttle cable or injectors. If you have an inline fuel filter check that also.
Ill give it a try
@@jarekmai best of luck my man, make sure to bring us on this diagnostic adventure with you
Check your distributor, the guts on the inside can go bad. you dont need to buy a whole new dizzy, just buy the replacement parts. Another thing to look out for is your O2 Sensors bank 1 and bank 2 might be bad. Next thing is to check your fuel injectors. I hope these help!
Ill give a shot!
Something tells me days of street racing to the speed limit has finally caught up with him lmao
Check distributor, the can corrode over time. I had a friend with a d15b also facing this issue. Also look for vacuum leaks
Okay bet ill give it a shot!
+1 for egr related issue or intake leak
Maybee
@@jarekmai I'm more familiar with the obd1 cars sorry I can't be more help but if you have a junkyard near you go nab a bunch of stuff and try all the little easy to replace things like map/maf/O2 sensors first. Junkyard trip would make great content! Best of luck to you homie thanks for all the laughs
@@jarekmai block off the EGR valve from the intake if you haven't already tried that, just to eliminate that possibility. Spray brake clean all over and around where the intake meets the head and if the idle drops or it stalls you have an intake leak. If the leak/issue is from any of the valves on the intake and not where the runners meet the head you can block them off temporarily to get you around. 👍
try checking sparkugs, distributor, ignition coil etc. I experienced that “low/no power” on my ek and it was just the distributor
Sounds good! ill give it a try
Damn😭 I know the feeling
It’s the worst feeling 😢
good luck bro 💪 are you posting any updates anywhere??
I’ll be posting on instagram if anything happens ❤
it could be you're tps sensor ( throttle position sensor) same thing happened to my dads WRX
I’ll check it out!
Should check your fuel injector ecu air filter
Maybe get those ports that you can connect to the Honda civic that does self diagnostics?
What ports
Kind of like an obd
I would first test the injector with a multimeter the throttle body position sensor and the MAP sensor. If all that stuff is good go over the ignition system distributor cap, rotor, and spark plugs.
Ill give it try!
Check your maf, might be as simple as cleaning it out
I’ll definitely check it out
@@jarekmai good luck duuu. I know they sell maf cleaner at AutoZone, that might do it. Honda boys !!
I feel like it’s your throttle position sensor, if it’s warm out it could stop reason the input of the gas pedal
That’s what I’m thinking 🤔
Changed the main relay, thats probably going bad. It’s located on the side of glove box
Which relay?
@@jarekmai the fuel pump main relay broski
Had the same problem on my mitsubishi
People said timing belt or spark plugs etc
Took it to a mechanic they checked the car for a whole day and it was just dirty fuel lines and sensors. So they just cleaned out everything and it worked great
Ill try it out!
Check fuel line, check fuel pump relay and change the Mass air flow sensor…
I’ll check that out ✊
Seems like TPS (throttle position sensor) sensor is bad. Cause if you blip the throttle it's barely moving.
Could possibly be
I had the same problem it was the throttle valve. And the car wouldn't turn on, it would stop randomly and it will struggle on idle.
Ill look
My ek hatch just blew up on me on my way home from work so just bought a new daily. Now the ek is my true project car
Fuel filter, probably dirty
New filter
Check tps and map sensor
Ill see!
i like how the lip is flexible and able to bend into a frown with the towhook underneath
I swear
It happens
I don’t get it, it ran so good before 😢
@jarekmai that's how it goes...you checked timing...could check all connections, compression, check for spark, no codes being thrown I'm guessing...
Main relay, ect sensor, clogged idle air control valve, tps flat spots, fuel filter, dizzy
id say get a new engine then put the turbos back on
Lmao 😂
I'd check spark, fuel pressure, and vacuum leak test the throttle body
Checking
might be an air to fuel ratio sensor (o2 sensor before cat) if it has one, not very familiar with civics
I’ll check that out 👆
Bro I just watched your Miata video yesterday😂😂😂😂
Bro I guess I have bad luck 😂
@@jarekmai I was just thinking yesterday that even if the Miata breaks down, at least you’ll always have your reliable civic 😭
Damn I wish I knew what it could be... Ive never had a Honda before so I can't say what it is, I have a 2009 WRX Hatch that also has a lot of problems..
We in the same boat 😂
hi jarek do you need thumbnail designer at cheap rates?
Might be the throttle body not opening fully or the throttle cable is stuck. Try revving the car by hand on the pulley
Ill try!
Could be throttle cable? I would guess could totally be timing i would triple check it. Maybe airflow sensor if your car has one... I wluld check any and all sensors in general
I’m thinking the timing too! I’ll keep you updated
@@jarekmaiplease do cause I'm curious as what the issue is... I would also try and do a compression test because if it is timing related I know that D series engines are interference engines so you could have tapped or bent some valves which would explain why it makes no power exhaust sounds wrong.
Vacuum leak maybe??
Low key it could be
@@jarekmai It sound like something leaking when you rev it 😂
Anyway，good luck~
Going thru this right now too , my CRV broke down now im stuck with my subie Sti ,haha basically playing russian roulette daily until my RD1 comes back lol
Daily for the daily
I realized you bought a swapped civic.. hatches never came in an ex model so we never got vtec. Z6 is from an eg si or ex.. they say you should never buy a car that’s been vested on or swapped. Always buy oem/stock from an old person or you’ll have problems like this and your Miata!! There’s a reason why the guy was selling the civic/miata
I got the same issue! Do a compression test
Ill check!
had this problem in my first ek when I was living on the east coast. it was a bad fuel filter made my car sputter everywhere. when I went up hills it would die lol. this was back in 2005
Ill try it out
check the battery volts if is under 11 or so it could be the alternator
My alternator is whining. Ill give it a try!
Poor jazzy
I swear 😭