d44 2002 tj Sahara getting 35's 4.88 gears lockers f/r, sye kit, Adams drive shaft, metal cloak 3.5in lift, beefed up steering. That is what I'm going to start with I think and wheel easy. Thank you for the video!
Great video with a lot of good info Derek. I personally run a low pinion Dana 30 in the front of my TJ with 4.56 gears and chromoly shafts. I'm in the process of putting a super 35 kit together for the rear. I am running 33 BFG KO 2's and only plan on going to a 35'' tire. I don't wheel hard and I don't really do any rock crawling just trails rated at 3 or 4. Take care my friend and I will talk to you soon.
You have a great channel here and I have shared this with similar ones. The TJ is the best generation of Jeep with its classic rugged, utilitarian looks and stance, and the off-road prowess of its MB grandfather, only the TJ is far better. There's nothing like the military 2 door, short wheelbase from '41 - '06. Add in the coil suspension, you have the best and most fun Jeep ever built in the TJ. I thought about a 3" lift w/ 33's but fortunately very early on getting into off roading Jeeps, many told me, their TJ became very sluggish going from just 32's to 33's in addition to a domino effect of needing additional expensive parts. And I'm glad I listened! Because I drove a TJ with this set up and it didn't have that excellent low-end torque and was very slow off the line. And most of them returned to 32's while some fell for the aftermarket bait, very expensive bait. I get many who want to know what the perfect build is. Which is not easy to answer because everyone does different things with their Jeep. But I would like to share mine since my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn drives and handles absolutely amazing on and off-road. Keep in mind, I am NOT a rock crawler, I'm an adventurer who takes the family beach wheelin, beach camping, surf fishing, and we hit fun, moderate trails in the fall and winter getting to our favorite fishing holes and camp sites. Which is why the build is for what's near and for what we do, nothing was put on this TJ unnecessarily for show. I see too many "spotless Jeeps" with 33's - 38's. As long as you have good off-road instincts and common sense, a modest, high-quality build will allow you and your family to have a lot of fun! All in, I'm at $29k with my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn. And I can honestly say build wise, I'm done!! I might Raptor line it since the TJ has a few rough paint spots and won't ever have to worry about off road pinstriping again. The best part is, this TJ not only keeps up, but outperforms a lot of these $45k - $95k JK's & JL' s. Due in part to people's inexperience and just "over building". The '05 TJ has a modest build, yet is extremely capable, durable and best of all, affordable. And you don't need a 2nd vehicle or rental to take that long out of state trip anymore because this build affords you excellent on road manners too besides being an off-road animal. I encourage any Jeeper to search for a rust-free TJ 4.0 I6, preferably stock, 3.73's w/ LSD and a Dana 44. And to use my build as a "guide". Although I highly recommend this build for anyone who is an adventurer, not a rock crawler. Best of all, it will eliminate you from chasing your tail, and the aftermarket will have one less "just empty every pocket" victim out there! It was a lot of trial and error, but it has been well worth it. 2" Old Man Emu coils 32" KO2's or 32" BFG MT's Quadratec Baja alloy rims - perfect backspacing - no rub! Currectlync steering Freedom Off Road front adj track bar Napa Heavy Duty gearbox - very stout! M.O.R.E gearbox brace JKS quick disconnects PPR Industries 32 Teeth Speedomoter Gear - if you have 3.73 gears and 32" tires
Freedom Off Road front lower Adjustable control arms The rest are Fixed Detroit Axles
Transfer case drop kit Fox 2.0 Shox Fox steering stabilizer Professional 4x4 shop to do the alignment *If you have an "05 or '06 TJ, I highly encourage getting a Wranglerfix.com PCM. These 2 years are notorious for having erratic shift point and "so-called trans issues". Keep in mind, the 42RLE auto trans is actually very good, it's the lousy Chrysler pcm's that have given them a bad rap. Since installing this Wranglerfix pcm, it's like having a new TJ out of the showroom, excellent, smooth shift points and very nice acceleration now with no goofy, unwarranted codes. Thank God, because replacing a trans is something no one wants to do. Coupled with the best engine ever put in any Jeep, the 4.0L I6, and you have one of the best TJ's out there. Since doing this, I have had the best experience with any vehicle I've ever had. Staying with 32's allows us Jeepers to maintain that great low-end torque, saves us a lot of money on unnecessary aftermarket parts and still be able to wheel most anywhere. It's the best of all worlds! One of my favorite mods was added a Banks cat back exhaust giving it a throaty growl, but not obnoxiously loud. Absolutely perfect for the 4.0 I6. I might add front and rear ARB lockers and 32" BFG Mud Terrains if the family moves to a place with trails, but for now this is perfect for OBX beach wheelin', beach camping, surf fishing, fresh water fishing and camping. 😎🏖🌊🎣🏕🏞🐟 Most importantly, be honest with yourself, build your TJ for what you will be using it for. And know YOU CAN do great trails and much more with just a 2" lift and 32" ko2's or MT's! And anyone with a 2 door JL Rubicon, while I definitely prefer my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn over anything from '07 - present, I have to say these 2 dr JL Rubicons are absolutely complete, no reason to do anything to them! 33" MT's, perfect stock height lift, 4:1 ratio, lockers, etc. I wheeled with a couple that have this animal of Jeep and told them to leave it alone, it's perfect! They knew what they had and I don't forsee them changing anything. I tell them mine is just as capable and $40k less. 😎 But at least they won't have to spend so much as a dollar for upgrades. DO NOT let the aftermarket pushers fool or shame you into thinking you "need" 33" - 40" tires and a 5" lift to wheel. That's 🦬💩! They know full well, once they get you at 33's, it's a freaking cash cow for them! Because you just embarked on their multi thousand dollar build conveyor belt. And it's 100% unnecessary for moderate wheelin'! Your axles, drive train, drive shafts, engine, gearing and a host of a lot of other stuff now "needs" to be upgraded. The aftermarket pushers feast on naive people. Don't be that guy! Like cereal companies saying breakfast is the most important meal of the day, the aftermarket will continue to take advantage of the misinformed. Thanks for reading this, my intention is to help as many Jeepers as possible, and to assist with avoiding making the mistakes I did. O|||||||O 🇺🇲Only in a 2 Dr🇺🇸 '41- '06
That is a lot to unpack but I don't disagree with any of it. Honestly, I have a lot of opinions, but that's why I like to share them as I truly want to help educate people.. Anywho, thanks for the comment!
Love my ‘05 TJ Rocky Mtn with the 4.0L I6, Dana 44, 3.73 gears and lsd. Still find it odd that Chrysler put disc brakes up from and drums in the rear on these. At least they stayed with the AMC 4.0, but the brake thing is still a head scratcher, do it right - all the way or don’t do at all. Anyway man cool video!
Me too! Is yours disk or drum? I want to say a disk brake upgrade on a 44 was something like a $495 option on top of the something like $1300 option for the 44(which was a LOT in 03-06) but I'd have to dig into that one after all these years.
Well, great question! You can still find them but they’re salty. I assume once those dry up we will have to have something like an ARB pump regulated down to 5psi.
What can you say about how TJ axles compare with other 30’s, 35’s and 44’s, including those made later for the JK? Do the common assumptions regarding strength and weak points check out? I’m mostly asking out of curiosity, being a TJR owner running 33” tires on Dana 44’s.
Well, this I know: JK axles are wider. The D30 is comparable in size and is still 27 spline. No D35. The JK44 has a bigger ring gear than the TJ44, and moved up to 32 spline from 30. I don't know if it's the extra width, but I have seen countless snapped JK front axles - like snapped in half. Rarely have I see this on a TJ. if you truss and sleeve JK Rubi 44's, they would be superior to the TJ. For the vintage of your TJR, those axle were the best you could get from the factory. Thanks for your ccomment!
Hello my friend! I am sorry but that is not correct. Electric lockers were not introduced until 2007 - at which point the air actuated lockers were discontinued. Hey, somebody has to save all these TJ's! Hehe, take care!
I don’t own a jeep but really want one. Light off roading or overlanding. Would wind up getting a used jeep due to price so wondering about a couple things. Are there any years that I should avoid? In jeeps that they’ve lifted or put larger tires on is there a way to know if they have the right axles and gearing? I’ve heard that someone can put 35’s or bigger and not change stuff and it will cause bigger problems later. If a dealer can’t answer the gearing question should you not buy? I wrench on my own vehicles but don’t want to purchase something that I immediately have to upgrade something to keep it from breaking *edit. This would also be a daily driver. So not looking for something with huge wheels and big lift. Like the rubicon cause it’s got the features in case I need them.
My opinion... I would avoid any 4 cylinder/Automatic! if you are already thinking about a Rubicon - I would go right there and be done with it. I would normally already recommend a 03-06 for some of the creature comforts, but you are dead on, all the stuff you are going to want to upgrade is already there. Whether the automatic or the manual, the factory Rubicon gearing would be fine for 35's.
Continued: if you want the extra room, the 05-06 Unlimited Rubicons are the holy grail if you will. You will pay a bit more, but it will also be worth a good bit more if you ever want to sell. As far as the dealer, if its modified the dealer likely wont know the history on the axles unless they happen to tear the covers off. Most folks selling online will list out those mods, because they paid good money to have them upgraded. The Rubicon will have the best factory axles and transfer case you can possibly get from the factory. Do that. Hope that helps!
@@ElevatedJeeps that was a big help, thank you! I’ve always had my eye on jeeps. Then I started watching a lot of overlanding and off road recovery videos on RUclips. It made me want one more. Then my work car was put in the shop. I was put in a 2024 4 door rubicon for a few weeks. It had 68 miles when they gave it to me. I fell in love with it. Couple weeks after I was put in a 2022 rubicon gladiator. My wife started to get worried I was going to get depressed when I turned it back in haha
@@ickess Great, no problem! If you find one and want to talk it out / discuss things to look for I am happy to jump on a call and try to help out. Good luck my friend!
Im just a little confused when you talked about dana 44 lockers and mentioned limited slips in the rear and open front. I thought when you engage the lockers, its locked! Period.
So sorry for that confusion! In the 03-06 Rubicon Dana 44’s when they are UNLOCKED, the rear acts as a limited slip and the front is open. When locked, yes they are full spool. Thank you!
@@ElevatedJeeps thank you for the clarification, learned something new today. I didn’t know rear diff is LSD when they are UNLOCKED, i always thought both front and rear are open when lockers not engaged. Thank you sir!
@@JobaKei No problem at all! Again sorry for the confusion. One other thing I thought I should mention. The rear locker for the rubi44 - The L/S is known to be a failure point, most recommend to have it completely locked even doing any mild wheeling as they’re known to grenade if they do a lot of slipping. Thank you!
@@scottChapman25 I think everyone agrees that the HP is marginally stronger than the LP. This is the first time I’m seeing the number as high as 40% I must admit. (Shoulder shrug). Happy Jeepin! Take care!
Pretty sure the lowest you can go in the Dana 30 is 5.13.
*fact checked*. You were right, I was less right 😅. My bad! I’ll note in description, thanks for your correction!
Another great video! Good luck on finding a replacement builder for the rock sliders. Let me know when you do!
Great video as always buddy
Thanks buddy that means a lot! Have a great rest of your weekend!
d44 2002 tj Sahara getting 35's 4.88 gears lockers f/r, sye kit, Adams drive shaft, metal cloak 3.5in lift, beefed up steering. That is what I'm going to start with I think and wheel easy. Thank you for the video!
Awesome bud! Sounds like it’s going to be a beast! Nice build! Thanks for your comment, take care!
I have a 2004 rubicon 5sp
4" lift 285 tires
Love it
I sure do love me a Rubicon! Thanks for your comment!
Great video with a lot of good info Derek. I personally run a low pinion Dana 30 in the front of my TJ with 4.56 gears and chromoly shafts. I'm in the process of putting a super 35 kit together for the rear. I am running 33 BFG KO 2's and only plan on going to a 35'' tire. I don't wheel hard and I don't really do any rock crawling just trails rated at 3 or 4. Take care my friend and I will talk to you soon.
Thank you David!! Your Jeep is looking fantastic! Thank you for your comment!
@@ElevatedJeeps Thank you for the kind words Derek and looking forward to your next video. Take care brother!
You have a great channel here and I have shared this with similar ones.
The TJ is the best generation of Jeep with its classic rugged, utilitarian looks and stance, and the off-road prowess of its MB grandfather, only the TJ is far better. There's nothing like the military 2 door, short wheelbase from '41 - '06. Add in the coil suspension, you have the best and most fun Jeep ever built in the TJ.
I thought about a 3" lift w/ 33's but fortunately very early on getting into off roading Jeeps, many told me, their TJ became very sluggish going from just 32's to 33's in addition to a domino effect of needing additional expensive parts. And I'm glad I listened! Because I drove a TJ with this set up and it didn't have that excellent low-end torque and was very slow off the line. And most of them returned to 32's while some fell for the aftermarket bait, very expensive bait.
I get many who want to know what the perfect build is. Which is not easy to answer because everyone does different things with their Jeep.
But I would like to share mine since my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn drives and handles absolutely amazing on and off-road.
Keep in mind, I am NOT a rock crawler, I'm an adventurer who takes the family beach wheelin, beach camping, surf fishing, and we hit fun, moderate trails in the fall and winter getting to our favorite fishing holes and camp sites. Which is why the build is for what's near and for what we do, nothing was put on this TJ unnecessarily for show. I see too many "spotless Jeeps" with 33's - 38's.
As long as you have good off-road instincts and common sense, a modest, high-quality build will allow you and your family to have a lot of fun!
All in, I'm at $29k with my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn. And I can honestly say build wise, I'm done!! I might Raptor line it since the TJ has a few rough paint spots and won't ever have to worry about off road pinstriping again. The best part is, this TJ not only keeps up, but outperforms a lot of these $45k - $95k JK's & JL' s. Due in part to people's inexperience and just "over building". The '05 TJ has a modest build, yet is extremely capable, durable and best of all, affordable. And you don't need a 2nd vehicle or rental to take that long out of state trip anymore because this build affords you excellent on road manners too besides being an off-road animal.
I encourage any Jeeper to search for a rust-free TJ 4.0 I6, preferably stock, 3.73's w/ LSD and a Dana 44. And to use my build as a "guide". Although I highly recommend this build for anyone who is an adventurer, not a rock crawler. Best of all, it will eliminate you from chasing your tail, and the aftermarket will have one less "just empty every pocket" victim out there!
It was a lot of trial and error, but it has been well worth it.
2" Old Man Emu coils
32" KO2's or 32" BFG MT's
Quadratec Baja alloy rims - perfect backspacing - no rub!
Currectlync steering
Freedom Off Road front adj track bar
Napa Heavy Duty gearbox - very stout!
M.O.R.E gearbox brace
JKS quick disconnects
PPR Industries 32 Teeth Speedomoter Gear - if you have 3.73 gears and 32" tires
Freedom Off Road front lower Adjustable control arms
The rest are Fixed Detroit Axles
Transfer case drop kit
Fox 2.0 Shox
Fox steering stabilizer
Professional 4x4 shop to do the alignment
*If you have an "05 or '06 TJ, I highly encourage getting a Wranglerfix.com PCM. These 2 years are notorious for having erratic shift point and "so-called trans issues". Keep in mind, the 42RLE auto trans is actually very good, it's the lousy Chrysler pcm's that have given them a bad rap. Since installing this Wranglerfix pcm, it's like having a new TJ out of the showroom, excellent, smooth shift points and very nice acceleration now with no goofy, unwarranted codes. Thank God, because replacing a trans is something no one wants to do. Coupled with the best engine ever put in any Jeep, the 4.0L I6, and you have one of the best TJ's out there.
Since doing this, I have had the best experience with any vehicle I've ever had.
Staying with 32's allows us Jeepers to maintain that great low-end torque, saves us a lot of money on unnecessary aftermarket parts and still be able to wheel most anywhere. It's the best of all worlds!
One of my favorite mods was added a Banks cat back exhaust giving it a throaty growl, but not obnoxiously loud. Absolutely perfect for the 4.0 I6.
I might add front and rear ARB lockers and 32" BFG Mud Terrains if the family moves to a place with trails, but for now this is perfect for OBX beach wheelin', beach camping, surf fishing, fresh water fishing and camping. 😎🏖🌊🎣🏕🏞🐟
Most importantly, be honest with yourself, build your TJ for what you will be using it for. And know YOU CAN do great trails and much more with just a 2" lift and 32" ko2's or MT's!
And anyone with a 2 door JL Rubicon, while I definitely prefer my '05 TJ Rocky Mtn over anything from '07 - present, I have to say these 2 dr JL Rubicons are absolutely complete, no reason to do anything to them! 33" MT's, perfect stock height lift, 4:1 ratio, lockers, etc. I wheeled with a couple that have this animal of Jeep and told them to leave it alone, it's perfect! They knew what they had and I don't forsee them changing anything. I tell them mine is just as capable and $40k less. 😎 But at least they won't have to spend so much as a dollar for upgrades.
DO NOT let the aftermarket pushers fool or shame you into thinking you "need" 33" - 40" tires and a 5" lift to wheel. That's 🦬💩! They know full well, once they get you at 33's, it's a freaking cash cow for them! Because you just embarked on their multi thousand dollar build conveyor belt. And it's 100% unnecessary for moderate wheelin'! Your axles, drive train, drive shafts, engine, gearing and a host of a lot of other stuff now "needs" to be upgraded. The aftermarket pushers feast on naive people. Don't be that guy! Like cereal companies saying breakfast is the most important meal of the day, the aftermarket will continue to take advantage of the misinformed.
Thanks for reading this, my intention is to help as many Jeepers as possible, and to assist with avoiding making the mistakes I did.
O|||||||O
🇺🇲Only in a 2 Dr🇺🇸
'41- '06
That is a lot to unpack but I don't disagree with any of it. Honestly, I have a lot of opinions, but that's why I like to share them as I truly want to help educate people.. Anywho, thanks for the comment!
Love my ‘05 TJ Rocky Mtn with the 4.0L I6, Dana 44, 3.73 gears and lsd. Still find it odd that Chrysler put disc brakes up from and drums in the rear on these. At least they stayed with the AMC 4.0, but the brake thing is still a head scratcher, do it right - all the way or don’t do at all. Anyway man cool video!
Me too! Is yours disk or drum? I want to say a disk brake upgrade on a 44 was something like a $495 option on top of the something like $1300 option for the 44(which was a LOT in 03-06) but I'd have to dig into that one after all these years.
Really good video what do I do about those little air pumps on my 04 Rubicon mine still work could fall someday 😢
Well, great question! You can still find them but they’re salty. I assume once those dry up we will have to have something like an ARB pump regulated down to 5psi.
very well explained! - some pics may have been added for illustration though...
What additional pics/illustrations would you like? I think I can add more easily enough. Thanks
Strength between a HP and LP 30 is about 30% (ring gear torque handling)
What can you say about how TJ axles compare with other 30’s, 35’s and 44’s, including those made later for the JK? Do the common assumptions regarding strength and weak points check out? I’m mostly asking out of curiosity, being a TJR owner running 33” tires on Dana 44’s.
Well, this I know: JK axles are wider. The D30 is comparable in size and is still 27 spline. No D35. The JK44 has a bigger ring gear than the TJ44, and moved up to 32 spline from 30. I don't know if it's the extra width, but I have seen countless snapped JK front axles - like snapped in half. Rarely have I see this on a TJ. if you truss and sleeve JK Rubi 44's, they would be superior to the TJ. For the vintage of your TJR, those axle were the best you could get from the factory. Thanks for your ccomment!
Oh, and the JK30 and 44 are high pinion..
Awesome video but not all tj Rubicon had air lockers they had electric lockers also. Keep doing the lords work with the TJs
Hello my friend! I am sorry but that is not correct. Electric lockers were not introduced until 2007 - at which point the air actuated lockers were discontinued. Hey, somebody has to save all these TJ's! Hehe, take care!
@@ElevatedJeeps you are correct. Tell u what I did got the Rubicon front axle and thought the 2 wires was the e locker
I'm glad I saw what you wrote and did not thro the switch I rigged it up to
Now I have to figuer out what to do
@@xxshooterxxdmThat’s the sensor that tells dash when the locker is locked. Don’t get me started on those! 😅
I don’t own a jeep but really want one. Light off roading or overlanding. Would wind up getting a used jeep due to price so wondering about a couple things. Are there any years that I should avoid? In jeeps that they’ve lifted or put larger tires on is there a way to know if they have the right axles and gearing? I’ve heard that someone can put 35’s or bigger and not change stuff and it will cause bigger problems later. If a dealer can’t answer the gearing question should you not buy?
I wrench on my own vehicles but don’t want to purchase something that I immediately have to upgrade something to keep it from breaking
*edit. This would also be a daily driver. So not looking for something with huge wheels and big lift. Like the rubicon cause it’s got the features in case I need them.
My opinion... I would avoid any 4 cylinder/Automatic! if you are already thinking about a Rubicon - I would go right there and be done with it. I would normally already recommend a 03-06 for some of the creature comforts, but you are dead on, all the stuff you are going to want to upgrade is already there. Whether the automatic or the manual, the factory Rubicon gearing would be fine for 35's.
Continued: if you want the extra room, the 05-06 Unlimited Rubicons are the holy grail if you will. You will pay a bit more, but it will also be worth a good bit more if you ever want to sell. As far as the dealer, if its modified the dealer likely wont know the history on the axles unless they happen to tear the covers off. Most folks selling online will list out those mods, because they paid good money to have them upgraded. The Rubicon will have the best factory axles and transfer case you can possibly get from the factory. Do that. Hope that helps!
@@ElevatedJeeps that was a big help, thank you! I’ve always had my eye on jeeps. Then I started watching a lot of overlanding and off road recovery videos on RUclips. It made me want one more. Then my work car was put in the shop. I was put in a 2024 4 door rubicon for a few weeks. It had 68 miles when they gave it to me. I fell in love with it. Couple weeks after I was put in a 2022 rubicon gladiator. My wife started to get worried I was going to get depressed when I turned it back in haha
@@ickess Great, no problem! If you find one and want to talk it out / discuss things to look for I am happy to jump on a call and try to help out. Good luck my friend!
I have a right hand drive 2000 wrangler sport automatic rear dana 44
Im just a little confused when you talked about dana 44 lockers and mentioned limited slips in the rear and open front. I thought when you engage the lockers, its locked! Period.
So sorry for that confusion! In the 03-06 Rubicon Dana 44’s when they are UNLOCKED, the rear acts as a limited slip and the front is open. When locked, yes they are full spool. Thank you!
@@ElevatedJeeps thank you for the clarification, learned something new today. I didn’t know rear diff is LSD when they are UNLOCKED, i always thought both front and rear are open when lockers not engaged. Thank you sir!
@@JobaKei No problem at all! Again sorry for the confusion. One other thing I thought I should mention. The rear locker for the rubi44 - The L/S is known to be a failure point, most recommend to have it completely locked even doing any mild wheeling as they’re known to grenade if they do a lot of slipping. Thank you!
High pinion dana 30 is about 40% stronger than a LP dana 30
@@scottChapman25 I think everyone agrees that the HP is marginally stronger than the LP. This is the first time I’m seeing the number as high as 40% I must admit. (Shoulder shrug). Happy Jeepin! Take care!
@@ElevatedJeeps might be the dana 44 hp. I might have to go back and watch the video. Dirt lifestyle made a video about it
@@scottChapman25 No worries my man! Take care!