You are a brave man working on that vanity with the sink pop up wide-open LOL. I learned a long time ago when working near a sink to close or cover the drain cause it is guaranteed when you drop one of those screws it’s gonna bounce into the sink and disappear down into the P-trap
@@RadioRich100 Most people including most of the mom electricians in our large maintenance shop know how to properly yes one. Only safe way is to test on a know live circuit to verify that it works then test the circuit that will be worked on then retest it on a know. circuit. Even when I did all that I would take the suppository denerhised wire and short it to ground. Rather have a burn mark on a box then a dead electrician.
A customer supplied me with some these several years ago. After reading all instructions and specs twice, i installed them. I was pleased with the robust strain relief and I do agree that the connections are a bit sketchy. Toggle clamps like the Wago 221 would have made me feel better.
There sketchy because you must be sketchy. Don't make stuff up to try to appear smart. Nobody with any knowledge knows smart is not in your area of expertolise.
So instead of 1 connection per wire, you have 3. In a cheapplastic housing with a tiny amount of contact area. You're better off using wire nuts and a junction box.
He removed wago connectors to use those? I would have just used the Wago connectors in a wagobox, faster, easier, cheaper and give a better wiring contact
any code in the NEC warrants investigation into any NEC member's bank account. half of them are involved in companies that will exclusively benefit from 90% of the bullsh-t in the NEC
The little "insulation piercing" terminals are used in box fixtures designed for RV's, and they work even they work. Usually on close inspection you'll find a thin bit of insulation jammed into the vee with the conductor, so the contact is lousy. U can improve that nicely by stripping a window on one side or both of the conductor before seating into the vee; this eliminates the thin insulation from melting when the connection gets hot or the compressed insulation pushing the conductor back out of the vee, both of which are common failures.
I'm with a lot of other people that even if these are accepted by code, they still seem like probably a bad idea in most situations.. The really sad thing is that it seems like they could actually be so much better, though. The real key bit here that potentially makes these ok without a junction box is (a) the metal strain-relief brackets on the two wires coming in and (b) the fully-contained wire connection points. However, both of these could be better done in other ways: Make a _single_ metal bracket that both incoming wires are run through at either end. Then use something like a double-ended Wago connector in the middle, so you actually strip the wire ends to the right length, feed them into their individual holes, and clamp them down with a simple locking lever (possibly even with an enclosing plastic box around the whole thing), and then weave them through the bracket and you're done. It would provide better strain-relief, much better electrical contact, fewer potential failure points, would almost certainly be more reliable, could probably be made smaller, would be harder to do wrong, and actually wouldn't even require a screwdriver to install. That kind of device I might actually consider using. This one? Even if it's technically to code, probably not.
I like your idea for the metal bracket, with strain relief at each end, makes a lot of sense. And I would think that even your garden variety crimped connector would be better than this thing, as there is virtually zero connection area. I would worry about this getting hot, and melting.
Yes, I agree that a better splicing device could be designed, BUT, NEC 334.40(B) requires that said device be *Listed* to qualify under its exception to the requirement that a box be used for repairs such as this one. Sorry...
I can see millions of qualified electricians who have stared endlessly at the NEC, and sat at the feet of world weary Journeymen, listening to their teachings, react in horror to this plastic device. It goes against the grain. Nevertheless, there it is.
@@dogwalker666 Wire nuts are NOT dangerous, and have a tremendous track record. I have never had a failure in a lifetime of electrical work. As in most things, it all comes down to workmanship and conscientiousness.
@@paulmaxwell8851 Exactly the whole wire nut dangerous thing is an internet myth, actually much after and reliable than those other connectors. And what all these DIYer leave out if you have an electrical box with multiple Romex connectors and an outlet you don't have any room for anything but Wirenuts.
I used one of these on an old house to extend a wire running to a light about 12". The light was a single LED flush-mount can above a sink. The sink was on an outside wall, so there was very little access to it as the roof was right there. Considering the load was very minimal, I had no concerns about using the splice. All the un-grounded outlets in the old house were/are probably more dangerous than this splice.
You would've been better off burying a proper twisted splice in a metal box. I don't suggest this because it's not legal, but nonetheless vastly safer and better.
I live in the midwest and everything here is in metal conduit, so we do not use romex but use solid insulated wire for homes. You cannot use anything but junction boxes for splicing, etc. You cannot cover up boxes, they must always be accessible. I have run into this a few times doing some remodeling. Our solution in ceiling or anyplace in drywall is to use a round decorative cover. They make them in white plastic or metal that you can paint if necessary. The covers I used were over octagonal metal boxes. Once installed they are inconspicuous. If I could I would include a picture. Thanks…Jim PS……I learned about these from some old electrician’s leftovers which I got at a garage sale.
I'm guessing you probably live in Illinois. The reason you can't use romex and everything has to be in metal conduit is because of Unions! I think they mostly run your state!
@@rpsmith Yes, I live in a NW suburb of Chicago. My folks lived in Charlotte, NC and they had romex. I ran into a short in their house and it caused a lot of problems. They were using a freezer in the garage and it would pop the breaker, anytime, without warning. I ended up running a separate line for the freezer, because of this problem. Eventually, I found the problem, it was a shorted out night light. The problem with romex is, if you overload a line and it gets hot, there is nothing but the jacket of the wire and the outer covering to protect you from a fire. My dad’s home in Charlotte was built in 1985. In the attic was a bundle of romex cables on top of each other going all over the house. This scared me. Here in metal conduit, you have another layer to protect you. When you run power outside it has to be 1 foot below the ground in ridgid metal conduit (thicker than the regular metal conduit), whereas in Charlotte it’s just romex, do you know how it’s protected from a shovel accidentally breaking thru? Knowing both systems, I prefer metal conduit and metal boxes. They do metal conduit everywhere, it’s a matter of choice and paying for the difference. Most businesses in Charlotte are done in metal conduit. I looked into buying a home in Myrtle Beach and the metal conduit option was there if you wanted it. Plumbing has similar options today, copper versus plastic hot and cold water lines. Plastic drainage systems are common almost everywhere. Thanks….Jim
@@jimpie231 -- Approximately 90% of homes in the U.S. are wired with Romex and if it's installed properly it's entirely safe! And yes, some form of metal conduit is required for all business high voltage wiring throughout the U.S.. I think this post I found online from Bob Weiss mostly explains the conduit requirements in your part of the country: "Bending and installing conduit properly puts electrical work outside the skillset of the typical DIYer, creating more demand for (often unionized) professional electricians." While arguable safer, this requirement doubles or triples the cost of wiring a home in your area! Given a choice I think most new home buyers would choose Romex!
A box can be covered up and still be accessible. Accessible and readily accessible are two different things sir. Like you can make up a box and shove it up into an attic. It’s accessible. It may not be readily accessible but it’s accessible. If this guy made up this splice and buried it in the wall that’s another thing . That’s why anytime you do any type of work whether it be electrical , plumbing , hvac , or anything you always keep records , as builts , so that you will always know where anything and everything is. You can leave notes for any future workers that may follow your work. You can leave hand written notes inside panel covers that explain what you’ve done and where things are. Doing things like that sets professional electricians apart from half assed wannabes.
I can't believe the NEC or NFPA allows this kind of "splice". Insulation-displacement connection forks should be considered temporary at best (better not at all) due to their limited electrical contact points. Also, dissimilar metals contacting each other with current passing between them is always a bad idea. The shells are very likely molded of thermoplastic (softens when heated) and the "clamps" will quickly damage the NMC if used in a vibration environment. This device de-rates the entire circuit current carrying capacity. When it comes to dealing with the potentially destructive power of electricity, better go safe or go home.
Do you honestly think because an organization has the backing of the Federal Government that it's credible? I've worked with both NEC and NFPA guys. Typical government idiots. @@nothankyou5524
I seriously feel like a 6 lever Wago connector with a simple clip together box over it would be better than this, hahaha. It could be mounted on a metal strip with tabs to still have the pull out preventing strain relief.
Super. Please dont ever splice a wire in a wall, but for those people with paid up fire insurance, at least put the wire in a metal handy box, with a metal cover, proper wire clamps, ground the box, and use proper wire connections, like wire nuts on properly twisted and trimmed wires, screw or crimp terminal connections correctly torqued, soldering, or Wago/Ideal connectors. 💙 T.E.N.
I've been an electrician for 20 years. They use these to splice the wires on double wide manufacturer homes. I fix about 50 of these a year. The connection method is horrible, and will cause a fire if not caught at first sign of an issue. PLEASE DO NOT USE THESE, and if you do, PLEASE LEAVE ACCESSIBLE.
weird how all of you have the same story going around commenting on all videos about this...dozens of different commenters all with the exact same scare story about the mobile homes what are the odds...almost like electricians are a big racket!
@@cryengine_x I'm not an electrician and Ive never used or seen one of these before today. However I do agree with the above commenter and here's why; The contact being made with the conductor is extremely low. Look at the bite mark in the insulation when he crimps the 14 gauge wires into it. The amount of contact is exceptionally low and you have a total of 4 of those weak connections in a single circuit using one of these. Using 12 guage wire like in the actual ceiling install in the second part will likely give a significantly better connection however, now instead of having to support a 15 amp circuit, you're now asking for it to handle 20 amperes. If even one of those connections is weak it's a problem but remember, there's four. There's too many potential points of failure to be worth it. Now if they made something similar to this but with a beefier strain relief and a connector that made more contact that actually involved stripping the wire back like a wago connector I'd be in and say "cool, use it if you want". If you absolutely HAVE to use this device for whatever reason, please, please, PLEASE use it in combination with a combination AFCI breaker so if the connection ever breaks down and it starts arcing, it'll hopefully trip the breaker at least. It would also be best if this were only used on lighting circuits only that will never see more than 5-6 amps pulled through them. Running 2500w through this thing is just asking for trouble
@@cryengine_x Burn your house down, that's your choice. But if I see a bunch of PROFESSIONALS all saying the same thing. I would listen. Some of us take pride in our work and will do whatever it takes to make sure it's done right. Not the half ass lazy handyman way.
My bro and his wife had their double wide burn down and this was determined to be the cause. I am not an electrician and dont want to be one. If someone wants to use them, don’t complain if your house burns down
Quite Similar to the connectors used in commercial office lighting above grid ceilings (277V, 3 phase typically). They are notorious for getting corroded and having intermittent open connections (lights go out at random times). And the Pinch for conductor is very poor quality too.
I have seen these arc/burn enough to kill the connection. The insulation melts some from heat traveling back from the contact failure. It was under a doublewide house trailer connecting receptacles on one side of living room to the other. I believe it happened after they plugged in a window AC.
Found this searching for ‘Tyco Splice’. Glad I watched. Great video demonstration. This is what I needed to be able to move from a kitchen counter outlet to an island that needed more distance and to remove a light switch to convert it from switched power to always on. The fun will be doing all of this manipulation with less than a foot of wire reachable! LOL! I seriously appreciate this video!
I would be careful using this in the kitchen because of the wattage we use appliances like toasters , microwaves that have a high current draw. Remember this device makes its connection via small contact area not under a screw terminal .
The cheaper box plus cover you promoted last junction box video. is my pick. HINT: Close the drains in sinks before working with small parts to keep from losing them. I've lost such screws and pills not doin g this!
We were told at an IAEI continuing education class that these are legal to be installed concealed inside walls. One important thing they mentioned it's a one time connector.If you unplug it you must install a new one. Would never trust the small piece that locks into only part of the copper conductor. Best practice would be for them to make it with screws that pushes onto a flat brass plate & insist that you tighten with a torque driver.
The one-time-use nature of these splice kits cannot be overstated. Similar to punchdown connectors and blocks for low voltage in telecom/Ethernet, these cannot create a reliable connection a second time, after disassembly and removing conductors. The first time the conductors are pushed in, the two blades of each connection point deform, enlarging the slot ever so slightly. If you haven't patched the hole yet it would be best to re-perform the splice with a new kit.
I am so glad you brought this product up, as there will be that situation it will be needed. As an AHJ and Master Electrician for 34+ years. The 2020 NEC Art 334.40 Boxes and Fittings (B) Devices of insulating material. These are Non Metallic Sheath Cable Interconnector devices and are acceptable concealed in walls and ceilings for a "repair" of damaged wire and for exposed cable wiring (example -romex in an attic that is accessible). Tyco list this product as "rework". Which the NEC DOES NOT. This is the classic case of a design engineer playing with, changing, or not knowing the exact wording in the NEC. For what you did in the video. Great job. I would have passed the inspection for that product, even covered up by drywall. Granted, possible problems in the future, but acceptable be code. But.... if someone were to move a switch or move a light to start a "rework / remodel". I would fail the inspection with this device concerned as that is not a "repair" as stated in the NEC code. Then this item must be accessible or start installing splice boxes.
I used these about a year ago, but thought I was the only clown that used them, and was waiting for my house to burn down. Thanks for lowering my blood pressure. Wait... what's that smell?!
To help you out. My friend, I am a retired electrician this is not really a junction box so to speak. Even though the package says so is actually a plug. Obviously, that it is perfectly legal and even stated in the national electrical code when you order a mobile modular for a school just for one example. All the lights and plugs are put together using this method. In the mobile modular's. I had to fix wires that obviously needed it and I use the same method are difficult to pull part for reason. So, good job on the video they also have them for MC cable as well as role Max cable
This is an idiotic statement, those things are proven dangerous, plus this guy used a no contact tester to prove the circuit is off. Showing how dangerous he is doing electrical work.
I seem to remember that if this was being used for a repair it can be concealed. If it's part of a new run it has to be accessible. 334.40b is the reference. The electrician used these as part of a re-wire/installation of a breaker panel. I've had zero problems since install from December of 2020. New 12-2 romex to old 12-2 (no ground) system.
Package may have said 'no junction box needed' but did not authorize a concealed splice. Besides a solder joint in a Marr connector and some tape would be better than this or just leave the wire nuts in a protected metal box that is grounded for a safer job. I'd like to see an inspector comment on this video. Approved for China and Russia.
I am not a big fan of those splice kits but I have been told they are NEC approved ‘no documentation I was just told that’. However if the junction box is in the attic and the attic is accessible then so is the junction box.
He removed the box that was already there because electrical code does not allow a box to be concealed in the ceiling with no access. He replaced the box with the splice which is allowed to be concealed with no access. Then he will cover the opening with dry wall.
@@RadioRich100 I agree with you, I was responding to this post - Luis Larrea I'd assume the idea was to work less too, if you're cutting gypsum, you're making a mess, you may as well throw in a box.
Kind of a pain. Quickwire in the UK makes a splitter that seems much easier overall. More compact as well. Not legal here AFAIK. Really not a fan of the vampire style connections, but I'm sure it works. It's sad to think though that a device like this could just be a 6 lever Wago style connector with 3 openings in each direction and a small screw or clip together box to go over it. Would work just as well, be just as safe, and take way less time. Anyways, at least the option exists! Thanks for the demo.
Might eliminate a junction box, but I dont think it can be concealed or not accessible (buried in a wall). I'm skeptical. Remember when aluminum was approved for residential wiring? How did that work out?
Dave, your video helped me solve a problem when I nicked some Romex cables inside a wall. One important update, though. As far as I can tell, Tyco doesn't make these anymore. However, NSI Industries makes an equivalent product. Here's what's on the label: NSI, Wire Connectors, Non-Metallic Cable Splices, NMS-2, Wire Range 12-14 AWG, Splice for 2-Conductor Cable with Ground. I found these at a local electrical supply place. The connectors have worked perfectly for me and were not difficult to install.
@@tedmoss But wouldn’t that be true with any connection? In the situation where I used them, there was zero possibility of putting in surface access boxes. And its dry.
3/30/2024. Out of curiosity I just ordered one of these connectors to test it out. Yes, you can still buy them. I plan on making a test splice and maybe hook up a couple of space heaters and see what happens. Of course I will do this outdoors away from my house. I’m curious.
Two issues. One, I'm not sure Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs) are reusable. Once used the integrity is lost when re-cripped. So, I'm hoping you threw away the first set and started with a fresh set for your install. And two, just because it eliminates the need for a junction box doesn't mean it can be concealed. If it were a high current application, which in your case, it may not be, I would be worried about heat buildup years down the road. It looks like a pretty poor example of a permanent fix. Only one IDC blade per wire. Any way to pull a new piece of Romex or get attic access to place the junction box up there where it would be accessible above all that insulation?
I was hoping also that he did not reuse the practice connectors. I paused the video at 7:38 to read what was written on the connector. It stated "do not re terminate".
I was thinking the same thing, but it looks like he used the same one. But he tested with 14AWG and then did 12AWG, so likely not too much of an issue with spread as he went to a bigger wire. But that small contact, that thing will overheat if high amperage (more then 1) passes through that... I would NEVER put that thing in there, thats like getting a under counter pipe accordion and saying "i'm a plumber"... Do this right! Dont use these DIY junk that the home center sells..
I'm a rocket scientist and I operate on brains in my spare time (between rocket launches) and you could use the old wire as a pull, and pull a new wire towards both ends from the middle. Aside from a really tight staple hidden inside the wall this will work like the Saturn 5 moon mission.
Even if these splices are OK for code, they weren't installed correctly. There are two open screws on each connector. I've never used these (and wouldn't) but I'm betting those empty screw holes are so the splice can be screwed to a stud or wall. This connector wasn't, it's just laying on insulation.
No electrician here, but it seems to me a connection like this should be checked for voltage drop. At least that might indicate weather or not the connection is good. All completed connections should be checked and this video should have shown such a test. Personally, I would never use these.
No NEC will not allow a splice to replace a junction box unless it is a repair. This would be in case your wire gets damaged. Still, sometimes adding a junction box isn't the end of the world. It just needs to be covered and painted to match the room. I've seen smoke alarms used as a junction box before to hide a previous repair.
There’s just not enough surface area of connection at the little teeth that bite through the insulation. Yes it will make a connection and conduct electricity. Voltage will flow but when enough amperage is pulled through that circuit those little spots will heat up. Better to use a jbox with wire nuts.
I suspect you would still have to check your local electrical code to see if these are allowed despite them being available at hardware stores. If you think about it, much of the items used in electrical installations are as privative as they were a 100 years ago, and very little attempt has been made to modernize the installation with plug-in wiring etc. All this stripping wire and making pigtails etc. is very time consuming. I am surprised that no one has come up with a better "plug and play" idea that would also make it safer at the same time.
The amp capability is not germane to the heat generated. Your asking meat heads about what you should be verifying yourself. Meat heads do as meat heads see, I guess. We got you. We got documentation from the NEC. Yours is the take I want to follow. Stick to what you know, if a nything.
Just because it’s sold at a big box store doesn’t mean you should use it. Some of the items these stores sell are meant for temporary repairs, some should not used period. Before you run out and buy these, check with your local building inspector to see if they can be legally used in your area. It maybe ok for use on wiring that has a low power draw, like a wire to a lighting fixture. But on main line wire? Personally, I wouldn’t use this connector. Either stick with a junction box or replace the entire wire, this just looks like it could be a hazard in the future.
Private homeowners are not required to follow any codes they have no agreement contract with themselves too. Only professionally licenced "commercial" contractors are required by "commercial codes". You don't need permission or inspections when fixing things in your own home.
Homeowners doing their own work are required to do things code compliant. Sometimes that means that they aren't allowed to do certain things, like plumbing or electrical, but if they do, must meet minimum code requirements.
I can’t see how this is safer then doing a proper wire nut connection in a metal junction box and sealing that away in an inaccessible area… If the NEC approved this flimsy thing they should approve a metal junction box.
I have used a couple of these and my buddy hasn’t complained yet one is on a washer circuit and the other I believe is on the dryer circuit its been probably 3 years atleast
I think this is also a junction box,in a squeezy-tight way.I wonder if the 'teeth'(clamps)bite widely enough to make the necessary contact.Again,I think this device is only good for certain (low) ampere circuits.
UPDATE Edit: these splice kits are no longer available. Any other suggestion other than a junction box? I’m doing a similar job where I only have room for a splice. However, I wasn’t aware of the splice kit or even if they were safe. So I appreciate you sharing this information, thank you.
Lots of opinions in the comments as to whether this is safe or not. These are used to splice sections of manufactured housing together (double-wides). But the NEC allows them to be used for repair as well, not for new work. They are getting hard to find, but I think they're still out there somewhere. It might be the C-word that has made them scarce, and not that they're being discontinued. It's been that way for a lot of electrical supplies, especially where I live. The BEST way to do it is definitely a true junction box. If it's in a decent spot, the junction box could be an outlet or light box. I've heard of lots of guys using metal boxes (handy box with a handy box cover plate---though PLEASE NOTE this is not legal) twist the wires really good with wire nuts, and put the good metal NM clamping connectors on each side of the box, then bury the box in the wall. In my opinion, that would probably be better than these connectors-- though I can't recommend it. ---If there were a short in the metal box, your breaker should trip before any damage could be done. Just my opinion. Thanks for the comment! - I guess RUclips edited the above comment with a strikethrough
you could always run a new set of Romex sure its a pain in the ass but all the equipment you would need is a decent fish tape just start where the junction would be and snag one of the wires and run pull it out of one side replace that wire with your new Romex and then run the other wire backward (fish tape attaches at the receptacle/switch/box and pull on the wire to advance the tape to the junction where you then hook onto the new Romex before fishing it the rest of the way.) granted you may need a second person to feed if you're covering any amount of distance or crossing planes i.e. ceiling to wall or wall to perpendicular wall.
Eliminating a junction box means only that...many box's are in attics or crawl spaces. Nowhere does it say you can bury the splice in a wall. I don't think this was meant for every situation...but I could be wrong.
These are a great idea if they work but putting them inside a wall is a code violation for the same reason as hiding a junction box inside a wall. junction boxes are not allowed to be buried due to if there is an issue with the electrical connections the junction is 1) not accessible; 2) if the home is sold the new home owner does not know about the box, making troubleshooting harder for the next technician.
My sister-in-law trailer caught fire. Insurance adjuster found fault was this type connection in corner that fed circuit That she was using to iron clothes.
These are a large leap for romex repair but the fact is that the connection exists in the wall would freak me out. They look like a connector that should be used for 12v low amperage. "Scotch Locks" lol.
So Tyco is now "Te connection" and this product is hard to find. But their is another company with a nearly identical product its NSI and the model is NMS-2, they also have a great splice and tap version NMT-2.
OK, you joined the cables, but I would just have put an outlet up there. (After all you never know when you might want to vacuum the ceiling or something.) Or you could just put a blank cover over the hole and paint it to match the surrounding wallboard. Who's gonna complain about that?
I would not feel safe using this. I would prefer using inline splices that are soldered with heat shrink tubing over the individual splices . May not be code approved but a lot sturdier connection
Very helpful video. I'm installing flush mount LED lights and the fixture doesn't allow room for the wire nuts so the wires need to be in the ceiling. Thought I would need a junction box, which would require more work and tools. Thanks for your easy to understand video. Well done.
I have used solder and barrel connectors to fix cut romex. Heat shrink over solder and rubber tape to make the splice. Always thought a junction was three or more wires at one point or a fixture. Never had a failure in over 30 years. However, in my own home I use conduit never that romex garbage. Rat chewed wiring can arc and start fires. On the good side I never used wood to build my home.
soldered connections aren't code compliant, neither is the rubber tape, you must use something like heat shrink that is equivalent to the insulating material used on the conductor.
@@jesseewing7948 Honestly I could care less about the code, no one will ever see this unless they pull the wires. Electronic equipment has extensive amounts of soldered wires and all crimp fittings corrode in our humid, salty air. Romex in my opinion is a horrible way to wire a home and should never have been allowed under any code. It goes to show that money buys compliance. Rodent chewed Romex has started fires I know of one that happened in a home. I do not think it is allowed in commercial applications?
@@chargermopar romex in a residential setting is perfectly fine as long as it is installed properly, plus most homeowners would definitely balk at the inflated cost of running mc as it is roughly 2x the price for the same gauge, requires more expensive junction boxes , as well as the necessary connectors for the mc which aren't needed for romex, and that is before considering the fact that it takes more time to install which will further drive up price. you can definitely run it if you choose to go above and beyond code, but it isn't necessary. I will concede that rodents do enjoy chewing up romex, but that means there are other problems with the structure that are leading to rodents being able to access the wire so it isn't really the fault of the wire in that case. as for the commercial application question, that is a different matter as the materials for building construction are different and all the metal used in commercial construction lead to possible damage to the romex which is why you would use mc instead, however technically you can use it as long as it isn't subject to physical damage like in a raceway (as long as approved by the AHJ.)
yea right like mice, rats cant or wont chew through pvc conduit either. or unless you one of those EMT is the greatest thing since man discovered fire types. EMT rusts, has its own issues
Sure, let’s encourage folks to violate the code. The use of such devices is limited to only certain locations on manufactured homes. In practical terms, it’s amazing how often I find electrical faults develop where wires connect - no Matt how well concealed. What should be a five minute troubleshooting job can take days as you attempt to find the problem.
Its not even the code, devices like those fail frequently legal or not. Its just the lazy mans way of doing it. I cant believe he would make a video to show people how to do something dangerous to save time.
I would prefer to violate the electric code and make a proper connection with wire nuts in a box and leave it buried in the wall or ceiling. This splice kit looks like a real pain to use.
saw this vid a year too late, yesterday, 3/17/22 had an extremely tight area & not able cut it larger. Had a very difficult time installing a 4" round box. If I had seen this device sooner, would have been extremely easier & quicker. Thanks for the vid, loved it.
IMO, I think that wire nuts heavily wrapped in electrical is FAR safer than this. Wire nuts are going to give a far more direct tight connection than this. When tightly wrapped, far better direct connection
Yes but these provide you with one thing that wire nuts do not, visual inspection. I work in industrial HV and EU standards are about 10 yrs ahead of North Am., these connectors are very common in some EU countries. I could easily see these become standard over single circuit junction.
Wrapping wire nuts in electrical tape doesn’t add value to the connections. Complete the prep and wire nut install properly and you’re golden, done, finished, complete…
Those of you that are licensed electricians, explain to me why this, hidden in a wall or ceiling meets code but a junction box hidden in a wall or ceiling does not. I would trust properly connected wires inside a sealed junction box to last the life of the home. This device, however, is just a giant scotch lock. Scotch locks are fine for low voltage but this is 120 so the poor connection surface provided by this device would seem to me to create resistance and hot spots that could eventually cause a short and perhaps a fire. It appears to me that this device would create the same risk as connecting a 10ga wire to a 12 or 14 ga wire? What do you professional electricians think?
IDC ( insulation-displacement contact) connectors are not meant to be reused. The contacts can get misshaped so I hope you didn't use the connectors that you used for "pracrice".
Very cool useful item. What would be nice is if they have a 3 way connector where you could add (another outlet ) to a run. Not sure maybe they have something like that and I’m just not aware of that?
Great solution. I would have no problem doing this in my home, particularly because I would know where it is if there was a problem. Actually seems more elaborate than what would be needed.
Thanks, Joseph. Researching this, I've seen a lot of electricians on forums saying they just hide metal boxes in the walls. Seems like if someone used push connectors inside a metal box, then secured the cable clamps really good, that would be as good or better than these ... but these were legal and I hadn't seen a video on it, so I thought I'd do one myself.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY they still need to be accessed on behind wall applications so they are only good for wiring that is visible like in unfinished basements or attics otherwise use a box and cover for access codes
Stick to plumbing joseph ! These things are absolute GARBAGE !! Seen them BLACK from all the heat and arcing inside the shitty terminals the wire pinches into !!!!
Scotch-lock connectors (for low voltage automotive applications) have a bad reputation for failing; - And use a similar Insulation Displacement connections as this product so I would definitely not use this product.
Scotchloks fail in automotive applications mostly because of moisture, vibration, and improper use like using the wrong connector for the wire size. IDC connectors are used on basically all copper telecom and data lines and survive much better in that application. I do occasionally hear about these particular connectors failing in modular homes but not nearly as frequently as their automotive counterparts.
You couldn't make me use those even at gun point. Just paint a nice cover for the junction box. Twisting the wires before using a marr connector(wire nut) is the best way to make a splice.
My biggest complaint about these splices is that you must cut the wire. Why? Since they are using those stupid insulation cutting V connectors anyway, which are unreliable, why not allow the conductors to remain intact? For situations where you are eliminating a box it's no big deal. for situations where you are fixing damaged insulation, it's rediculous to require cutting the conductors just to fix the insulation.
You are a brave man working on that vanity with the sink pop up wide-open LOL.
I learned a long time ago when working near a sink to close or cover the drain cause it is guaranteed when you drop one of those screws it’s gonna bounce into the sink and disappear down into the P-trap
Hes also a risk taker for using a no contact voltage tester to determine if the circuit is hot.
@@RadioRich100 Most people including most of the mom electricians in our large maintenance shop know how to properly yes one. Only safe way is to test on a know live circuit to verify that it works then test the circuit that will be worked on then retest it on a know. circuit. Even when I did all that I would take the suppository denerhised wire and short it to ground. Rather have a burn mark on a box then a dead electrician.
@@JohnThomas-lq5qp Do you ever read your messages before you post them? Lol
Hahaha! My first thought too was about the open drain!!
I noticed the open drain plug too, lol!
A customer supplied me with some these several years ago. After reading all instructions and specs twice, i installed them. I was pleased with the robust strain relief and I do agree that the connections are a bit sketchy. Toggle clamps like the Wago 221 would have made me feel better.
There sketchy because you must be sketchy. Don't make stuff up to try to appear smart. Nobody with any knowledge knows smart is not in your area of expertolise.
@@nothankyou5524 What a massive overreaction.
So instead of 1 connection per wire, you have 3. In a cheapplastic housing with a tiny amount of contact area. You're better off using wire nuts and a junction box.
He removed wago connectors to use those?
I would have just used the Wago connectors in a wagobox, faster, easier, cheaper and give a better wiring contact
Thanks for making informative videos free and publicly available, you're doing a great service to society.
Thank YOU for watching ... and the extra thanks!😊😊
If these things have gotten NEC approval, I think an investigation into the NEC board member’s bank accounts is warranted.
any code in the NEC warrants investigation into any NEC member's bank account. half of them are involved in companies that will exclusively benefit from 90% of the bullsh-t in the NEC
This component has been tested and listed by UL, not NEC.
@@pld8993 then it is not legal,has to be an approved wiring method according to NEC to be legal,I would not use them in a dog house.
The little "insulation piercing" terminals are used in box fixtures designed for RV's, and they work even they work. Usually on close inspection you'll find a thin bit of insulation jammed into the vee with the conductor, so the contact is lousy. U can improve that nicely by stripping a window on one side or both of the conductor before seating into the vee; this eliminates the thin insulation from melting when the connection gets hot or the compressed insulation pushing the conductor back out of the vee, both of which are common failures.
None of what you've said is factual if used correctly. Besides, who's trusting you over the NEC?
I'm with a lot of other people that even if these are accepted by code, they still seem like probably a bad idea in most situations.. The really sad thing is that it seems like they could actually be so much better, though.
The real key bit here that potentially makes these ok without a junction box is (a) the metal strain-relief brackets on the two wires coming in and (b) the fully-contained wire connection points. However, both of these could be better done in other ways:
Make a _single_ metal bracket that both incoming wires are run through at either end. Then use something like a double-ended Wago connector in the middle, so you actually strip the wire ends to the right length, feed them into their individual holes, and clamp them down with a simple locking lever (possibly even with an enclosing plastic box around the whole thing), and then weave them through the bracket and you're done.
It would provide better strain-relief, much better electrical contact, fewer potential failure points, would almost certainly be more reliable, could probably be made smaller, would be harder to do wrong, and actually wouldn't even require a screwdriver to install. That kind of device I might actually consider using. This one? Even if it's technically to code, probably not.
I like your idea for the metal bracket, with strain relief at each end, makes a lot of sense. And I would think that even your garden variety crimped connector would be better than this thing, as there is virtually zero connection area. I would worry about this getting hot, and melting.
@@nunya3163 I think this is (at least partially) responsible for the AFCI requirement.
Less contact area = more chance of arcing.
@@pyrotech7210 Less contact area = more chance of arcing = more chance of fire.
I'm actually amazed I can't find a better version of this with wagos or screw terminals. There is money to be made there.
Yes, I agree that a better splicing device could be designed, BUT, NEC 334.40(B) requires that said device be *Listed* to qualify under its exception to the requirement that a box be used for repairs such as this one. Sorry...
I can see millions of qualified electricians who have stared endlessly at the NEC, and sat at the feet of world weary Journeymen, listening to their teachings, react in horror to this plastic device. It goes against the grain. Nevertheless, there it is.
And dangerous, Almost as dangerous as wire nuts.
@@dogwalker666 Wire nuts are NOT dangerous, and have a tremendous track record. I have never had a failure in a lifetime of electrical work. As in most things, it all comes down to workmanship and conscientiousness.
@@paulmaxwell8851 Exactly the whole wire nut dangerous thing is an internet myth, actually much after and reliable than those other connectors. And what all these DIYer leave out if you have an electrical box with multiple Romex connectors and an outlet you don't have any room for anything but Wirenuts.
@@paulmaxwell8851 I don't know Paul, the dog walker says their dangerous, so it must be fact.
@@dogwalker666 Wire nuts work better than aluminum wire. I've used them for 68 years.
I used one of these on an old house to extend a wire running to a light about 12". The light was a single LED flush-mount can above a sink. The sink was on an outside wall, so there was very little access to it as the roof was right there. Considering the load was very minimal, I had no concerns about using the splice. All the un-grounded outlets in the old house were/are probably more dangerous than this splice.
Bad idea
@@RadioRich100 Been that way for years with no issues. :shrug:
@@ADBBuild And hoping every day it stays that way?
You would've been better off burying a proper twisted splice in a metal box. I don't suggest this because it's not legal, but nonetheless vastly safer and better.
I live in the midwest and everything here is in metal conduit, so we do not use romex but use solid insulated wire for homes. You cannot use anything but junction boxes for splicing, etc. You cannot cover up boxes, they must always be accessible. I have run into this a few times doing some remodeling. Our solution in ceiling or anyplace in drywall is to use a round decorative cover. They make them in white plastic or metal that you can paint if necessary. The covers I used were over octagonal metal boxes. Once installed they are inconspicuous. If I could I would include a picture. Thanks…Jim
PS……I learned about these from some old electrician’s leftovers which I got at a garage sale.
Good info, Jim. Thanks for all of that.
I'm guessing you probably live in Illinois. The reason you can't use romex and everything has to be in metal conduit is because of Unions! I think they mostly run your state!
@@rpsmith Yes, I live in a NW suburb of Chicago. My folks lived in Charlotte, NC and they had romex. I ran into a short in their house and it caused a lot of problems. They were using a freezer in the garage and it would pop the breaker, anytime, without warning. I ended up running a separate line for the freezer, because of this problem. Eventually, I found the problem, it was a shorted out night light. The problem with romex is, if you overload a line and it gets hot, there is nothing but the jacket of the wire and the outer covering to protect you from a fire. My dad’s home in Charlotte was built in 1985. In the attic was a bundle of romex cables on top of each other going all over the house. This scared me. Here in metal conduit, you have another layer to protect you. When you run power outside it has to be 1 foot below the ground in ridgid metal conduit (thicker than the regular metal conduit), whereas in Charlotte it’s just romex, do you know how it’s protected from a shovel accidentally breaking thru? Knowing both systems, I prefer metal conduit and metal boxes. They do metal conduit everywhere, it’s a matter of choice and paying for the difference. Most businesses in Charlotte are done in metal conduit. I looked into buying a home in Myrtle Beach and the metal conduit option was there if you wanted it. Plumbing has similar options today, copper versus plastic hot and cold water lines. Plastic drainage systems are common almost everywhere. Thanks….Jim
@@jimpie231 -- Approximately 90% of homes in the U.S. are wired with Romex and if it's installed properly it's entirely safe! And yes, some form of metal conduit is required for all business high voltage wiring throughout the U.S.. I think this post I found online from Bob Weiss mostly explains the conduit requirements in your part of the country: "Bending and installing conduit properly puts electrical work outside the skillset of the typical DIYer, creating more demand for (often unionized) professional electricians." While arguable safer, this requirement doubles or triples the cost of wiring a home in your area! Given a choice I think most new home buyers would choose Romex!
A box can be covered up and still be accessible. Accessible and readily accessible are two different things sir. Like you can make up a box and shove it up into an attic. It’s accessible. It may not be readily accessible but it’s accessible. If this guy made up this splice and buried it in the wall that’s another thing . That’s why anytime you do any type of work whether it be electrical , plumbing , hvac , or anything you always keep records , as builts , so that you will always know where anything and everything is. You can leave notes for any future workers that may follow your work. You can leave hand written notes inside panel covers that explain what you’ve done and where things are. Doing things like that sets professional electricians apart from half assed wannabes.
I can't believe the NEC or NFPA allows this kind of "splice". Insulation-displacement connection forks should be considered temporary at best (better not at all) due to their limited electrical contact points. Also, dissimilar metals contacting each other with current passing between them is always a bad idea. The shells are very likely molded of thermoplastic (softens when heated) and the "clamps" will quickly damage the NMC if used in a vibration environment. This device de-rates the entire circuit current carrying capacity. When it comes to dealing with the potentially destructive power of electricity, better go safe or go home.
You are spot on! This type of splice in the auto industry is well known for causing fires. I hate them with a passion.
I can't believe you think you are more knowledgeable than the NEC. Trust you or trust the NEC. Yeah. I'm relying on you.
Do you honestly think because an organization has the backing of the Federal Government that it's credible? I've worked with both NEC and NFPA guys. Typical government idiots. @@nothankyou5524
explain then why every appliance now has aluminum wires being wire nutted together with copper house wires? Stoves, dishwashers, ceiling lights etc.
I seriously feel like a 6 lever Wago connector with a simple clip together box over it would be better than this, hahaha. It could be mounted on a metal strip with tabs to still have the pull out preventing strain relief.
Super. Please dont ever splice a wire in a wall, but for those people with paid up fire insurance, at least put the wire in a metal handy box, with a metal cover, proper wire clamps, ground the box, and use proper wire connections, like wire nuts on properly twisted and trimmed wires, screw or crimp terminal connections correctly torqued, soldering, or Wago/Ideal connectors. 💙 T.E.N.
I've been an electrician for 20 years. They use these to splice the wires on double wide manufacturer homes. I fix about 50 of these a year. The connection method is horrible, and will cause a fire if not caught at first sign of an issue. PLEASE DO NOT USE THESE, and if you do, PLEASE LEAVE ACCESSIBLE.
weird how all of you have the same story going around commenting on all videos about this...dozens of different commenters all with the exact same scare story about the mobile homes what are the odds...almost like electricians are a big racket!
@@cryengine_x I'm not an electrician and Ive never used or seen one of these before today. However I do agree with the above commenter and here's why;
The contact being made with the conductor is extremely low. Look at the bite mark in the insulation when he crimps the 14 gauge wires into it. The amount of contact is exceptionally low and you have a total of 4 of those weak connections in a single circuit using one of these.
Using 12 guage wire like in the actual ceiling install in the second part will likely give a significantly better connection however, now instead of having to support a 15 amp circuit, you're now asking for it to handle 20 amperes. If even one of those connections is weak it's a problem but remember, there's four. There's too many potential points of failure to be worth it.
Now if they made something similar to this but with a beefier strain relief and a connector that made more contact that actually involved stripping the wire back like a wago connector I'd be in and say "cool, use it if you want".
If you absolutely HAVE to use this device for whatever reason, please, please, PLEASE use it in combination with a combination AFCI breaker so if the connection ever breaks down and it starts arcing, it'll hopefully trip the breaker at least. It would also be best if this were only used on lighting circuits only that will never see more than 5-6 amps pulled through them. Running 2500w through this thing is just asking for trouble
@@cryengine_x Burn your house down, that's your choice. But if I see a bunch of PROFESSIONALS all saying the same thing. I would listen. Some of us take pride in our work and will do whatever it takes to make sure it's done right. Not the half ass lazy handyman way.
My bro and his wife had their double wide burn down and this was determined to be the cause. I am not an electrician and dont want to be one. If someone wants to use them, don’t complain if your house burns down
@@gopooalreadyplease5842 ok i wont.
my dads cousins brother has over 50 of these in his walls and they all perform flawlessly.
Quite Similar to the connectors used in commercial office lighting above grid ceilings (277V, 3 phase typically). They are notorious for getting corroded and having intermittent open connections (lights go out at random times). And the Pinch for conductor is very poor quality too.
It’s surprising how small the surface area is for the contact point where the wires fit in the slots
I wouldn't trust it to carry much current.
@@bobcarrigan1742 those metal plates will cut through the insulation, And IDC always fail.
I have seen these arc/burn enough to kill the connection. The insulation melts some from heat traveling back from the contact failure. It was under a doublewide house trailer connecting receptacles on one side of living room to the other. I believe it happened after they plugged in a window AC.
Found this searching for ‘Tyco Splice’. Glad I watched. Great video demonstration. This is what I needed to be able to move from a kitchen counter outlet to an island that needed more distance and to remove a light switch to convert it from switched power to always on. The fun will be doing all of this manipulation with less than a foot of wire reachable! LOL! I seriously appreciate this video!
Glad it was helpful!
I would be careful using this in the kitchen because of the wattage we use appliances like toasters , microwaves that have a high current draw. Remember this device makes its connection via small contact area not under a screw terminal .
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Can we sue when it fails?
Great video editing even though I can't use NM in my location. I always appreciate good YT Content Creators and give credit where credit is due.
Thanks for the kind comment, Eric!
Thanks. I don't think I will be using them and your video helped me understand that. Useful!
It would be interesting to leave a load on it for a wile and take a thermal image of it to see how hot it gets.
Great idea Gary. If I can get my hands on another one of these, I might try to do some more extensive testing-- see if we can push it to failure.
The cheaper box plus cover you promoted last junction box video. is my pick. HINT: Close the drains in sinks before working with small parts to keep from losing them. I've lost such screws and pills not doin g this!
We were told at an IAEI continuing education class that these are legal to be installed concealed inside walls. One important thing they mentioned it's a one time connector.If you unplug it you must install a new one. Would never trust the small piece that locks into only part of the copper conductor. Best practice would be for them to make it with screws that pushes onto a flat brass plate & insist that you tighten with a torque driver.
Good info and idea, John. Thanks!
Do you think it would be better to solder the wire connections at the point where they are pinched.
@@danv2888 For at least the last 60 years NEC states that ground wires are not to be soldered due to on a high fault current solder could melt.
The one-time-use nature of these splice kits cannot be overstated. Similar to punchdown connectors and blocks for low voltage in telecom/Ethernet, these cannot create a reliable connection a second time, after disassembly and removing conductors. The first time the conductors are pushed in, the two blades of each connection point deform, enlarging the slot ever so slightly. If you haven't patched the hole yet it would be best to re-perform the splice with a new kit.
These are used extensively in manufactured housing when wire cross the seem when the craine sets the haves of the building
I am so glad you brought this product up, as there will be that situation it will be needed. As an AHJ and Master Electrician for 34+ years. The 2020 NEC Art 334.40 Boxes and Fittings (B) Devices of insulating material. These are Non Metallic Sheath Cable Interconnector devices and are acceptable concealed in walls and ceilings for a "repair" of damaged wire and for exposed cable wiring (example -romex in an attic that is accessible). Tyco list this product as "rework". Which the NEC DOES NOT. This is the classic case of a design engineer playing with, changing, or not knowing the exact wording in the NEC. For what you did in the video. Great job. I would have passed the inspection for that product, even covered up by drywall. Granted, possible problems in the future, but acceptable be code. But.... if someone were to move a switch or move a light to start a "rework / remodel". I would fail the inspection with this device concerned as that is not a "repair" as stated in the NEC code. Then this item must be accessible or start installing splice boxes.
Thank you for the supportive comment, John! Not a lot of love out there for these things.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY Most of the NOT love is from people who have never used or even seen them, but somehow think they have an informed opinion.
@@pld8993 much appreciated, John!
The lesson learned: plan and place your junction boxes more carefully. They are required.
I used these about a year ago, but thought I was the only clown that used them, and was waiting for my house to burn down. Thanks for lowering my blood pressure. Wait... what's that smell?!
I literally laughed out loud. ... Thanks for the comment :-)
To help you out. My friend, I am a retired electrician
this is not really a junction box so to speak. Even though the package says so is actually a plug. Obviously, that it is perfectly legal and even stated in the national electrical code when you order a mobile modular for a school just for one example. All the lights and plugs are put together using this method.
In the mobile modular's. I had to fix wires that obviously needed it and I use the same method are difficult to pull part for reason. So, good job on the video
they also have them for MC cable as well as role Max cable
Thanks for the support and extra info, Ray! It’s much appreciated 😊
This is an idiotic statement, those things are proven dangerous, plus this guy used a no contact tester to prove the circuit is off. Showing how dangerous he is doing electrical work.
I seem to remember that if this was being used for a repair it can be concealed. If it's part of a new run it has to be accessible. 334.40b is the reference. The electrician used these as part of a re-wire/installation of a breaker panel. I've had zero problems since install from December of 2020. New 12-2 romex to old 12-2 (no ground) system.
Thanks for the positive comment! And I believe you're correct on that code.
“Your scientists were so preoccupied with whether they could, they didn’t stop to think if they should.”
I'd like to see a mockup with one of these under a thermal camera. That tiny contact point seems like it would get a lil warm.
Great idea. Thanks for the suggestion.
I would also like to see some test data.
I agree
They have just as much contact area as a WAGO does.
Package may have said 'no junction box needed' but did not authorize a concealed splice. Besides a solder joint in a Marr connector and some tape would be better than this or just leave the wire nuts in a protected metal box that is grounded for a safer job. I'd like to see an inspector comment on this video. Approved for China and Russia.
USA and EU as well looks like
That's classic! "Approved for China and Russia". I've been to both places, and you don't know how true that is.
I cannot believe that an open spice is not legal, but this thing is.
Exactly what I needed to know, thank you. (Today's Clearance Price
= $12.51 ea.)
Thanks for watching :-)
I am not a big fan of those splice kits but I have been told they are NEC approved ‘no documentation I was just told that’. However if the junction box is in the attic and the attic is accessible then so is the junction box.
He removed the box that was already there because electrical code does not allow a box to be concealed in the ceiling with no access. He replaced the box with the splice which is allowed to be concealed with no access. Then he will cover the opening with dry wall.
U cant do that, and the connectors are dangerous.
@@RadioRich100 I agree with you, I was responding to this post -
Luis Larrea I'd assume the idea was to work less too, if you're cutting gypsum, you're making a mess, you may as well throw in a box.
@@philcook9967 Its the lazy mans way out. Run a new cable back to where you can put a box in.
Keep it Comin. Dave. I enjoyed watching. Great job in the project.😀
Thanks Kevin!
Kind of a pain. Quickwire in the UK makes a splitter that seems much easier overall. More compact as well. Not legal here AFAIK. Really not a fan of the vampire style connections, but I'm sure it works. It's sad to think though that a device like this could just be a 6 lever Wago style connector with 3 openings in each direction and a small screw or clip together box to go over it. Would work just as well, be just as safe, and take way less time. Anyways, at least the option exists! Thanks for the demo.
Might eliminate a junction box, but I dont think it can be concealed or not accessible (buried in a wall). I'm skeptical. Remember when aluminum was approved for residential wiring? How did that work out?
Dave, your video helped me solve a problem when I nicked some Romex cables inside a wall. One important update, though. As far as I can tell, Tyco doesn't make these anymore. However, NSI Industries makes an equivalent product. Here's what's on the label: NSI, Wire Connectors, Non-Metallic Cable Splices, NMS-2, Wire Range 12-14 AWG, Splice for 2-Conductor Cable with Ground. I found these at a local electrical supply place. The connectors have worked perfectly for me and were not difficult to install.
Thanks for the update Brent!
Looks to me like this video just caused u a problem.
These connectors work perfectly until they don't. Corrosion will cause an intermittent connection or an overload will cause a fire.
@@tedmoss But wouldn’t that be true with any connection? In the situation where I used them, there was zero possibility of putting in surface access boxes. And its dry.
3/30/2024. Out of curiosity I just ordered one of these connectors to test it out. Yes, you can still buy them. I plan on making a test splice and maybe hook up a couple of space heaters and see what happens. Of course I will do this outdoors away from my house. I’m curious.
I'd watch that video!
Two issues. One, I'm not sure Insulation Displacement Connectors (IDCs) are reusable. Once used the integrity is lost when re-cripped. So, I'm hoping you threw away the first set and started with a fresh set for your install. And two, just because it eliminates the need for a junction box doesn't mean it can be concealed. If it were a high current application, which in your case, it may not be, I would be worried about heat buildup years down the road. It looks like a pretty poor example of a permanent fix. Only one IDC blade per wire. Any way to pull a new piece of Romex or get attic access to place the junction box up there where it would be accessible above all that insulation?
I was hoping also that he did not reuse the practice connectors. I paused the video at 7:38 to read what was written on the connector. It stated "do not re terminate".
I was thinking the same thing, but it looks like he used the same one. But he tested with 14AWG and then did 12AWG, so likely not too much of an issue with spread as he went to a bigger wire. But that small contact, that thing will overheat if high amperage (more then 1) passes through that... I would NEVER put that thing in there, thats like getting a under counter pipe accordion and saying "i'm a plumber"... Do this right! Dont use these DIY junk that the home center sells..
To really test this device you should run 15 amps through it then use a thermal imaging camera (in the dark) to see if there are a few hot spots.
Been there done that….close sink drain!
I hear ya!
I'm a rocket scientist and I operate on brains in my spare time (between rocket launches) and you could use the old wire as a pull, and pull a new wire towards both ends from the middle. Aside from a really tight staple hidden inside the wall this will work like the Saturn 5 moon mission.
Ha ha. Great idea, Jeffrey, but in my case, there are many, many, tight staples, corners, and blocking that the wire travels through.
if properly installed the staples shouldn't allow that to happen, its not secured if you can slide the wire in it only supported
Thanks. You saved me from an ugly junction box in my wall next to the stove. Great video. Now a new subscriber.
Thanks and glad to have you!
it still needs an access cover so you might as well use a proper old construction splice box and flat paintable cover
As you're staring at the burning embers of what was once your home, you'll wish you had an 'ugly' junction box.
Even if these splices are OK for code, they weren't installed correctly. There are two open screws on each connector. I've never used these (and wouldn't) but I'm betting those empty screw holes are so the splice can be screwed to a stud or wall. This connector wasn't, it's just laying on insulation.
Reminiscent of the 1970’s UK Scotch Lock, a bit dodgy!
Better use WAGO’s with one their junction boxes. Thank you for your video.
Keep the fire department on speed dial
No electrician here, but it seems to me a connection like this should be checked for voltage drop. At least that might indicate weather or not the connection is good. All completed connections should be checked and this video should have shown such a test. Personally, I would never use these.
Even if it tests fine for voltage drop today, I wouldn't trust it to test good tomorrow.
Wago has a inline wire splice kit. Use it instead.
No NEC will not allow a splice to replace a junction box unless it is a repair. This would be in case your wire gets damaged. Still, sometimes adding a junction box isn't the end of the world. It just needs to be covered and painted to match the room. I've seen smoke alarms used as a junction box before to hide a previous repair.
There’s just not enough surface area of connection at the little teeth that bite through the insulation. Yes it will make a connection and conduct electricity. Voltage will flow but when enough amperage is pulled through that circuit those little spots will heat up. Better to use a jbox with wire nuts.
Enjoyed the video Dave. Thank you and God bless.
Thanks for watching, Ron!
I suspect you would still have to check your local electrical code to see if these are allowed despite them being available at hardware stores. If you think about it, much of the items used in electrical installations are as privative as they were a 100 years ago, and very little attempt has been made to modernize the installation with plug-in wiring etc. All this stripping wire and making pigtails etc. is very time consuming. I am surprised that no one has come up with a better "plug and play" idea that would also make it safer at the same time.
WAGO!
You mean "primitive"!
The small contact points may be a issue? What is its amp capability before it heats up
The fact that you refer to it as "amp capability" is telling. SMH
@@DiffEQ The fact that you feel the need to dress down an amateur is telling.
The amp capability is not germane to the heat generated. Your asking meat heads about what you should be verifying yourself. Meat heads do as meat heads see, I guess. We got you. We got documentation from the NEC. Yours is the take I want to follow. Stick to what you know, if a nything.
Just because it’s sold at a big box store doesn’t mean you should use it. Some of the items these stores sell are meant for temporary repairs, some should not used period. Before you run out and buy these, check with your local building inspector to see if they can be legally used in your area. It maybe ok for use on wiring that has a low power draw, like a wire to a lighting fixture. But on main line wire? Personally, I wouldn’t use this connector. Either stick with a junction box or replace the entire wire, this just looks like it could be a hazard in the future.
This seems like so much more work than a box and normal wire nuts.... but if it works for some people...
Private homeowners are not required to follow any codes they have no agreement contract with themselves too. Only professionally licenced "commercial" contractors are required by "commercial codes". You don't need permission or inspections when fixing things in your own home.
Homeowners doing their own work are required to do things code compliant. Sometimes that means that they aren't allowed to do certain things, like plumbing or electrical, but if they do, must meet minimum code requirements.
I can’t see how this is safer then doing a proper wire nut connection in a metal junction box and sealing that away in an inaccessible area…
If the NEC approved this flimsy thing they should approve a metal junction box.
This thing's not flimsy and works well for what it is.
I have used a couple of these and my buddy hasn’t complained yet one is on a washer circuit and the other I believe is on the dryer circuit its been probably 3 years atleast
Thanks for the positive comment, John :-)
I think this is also a junction box,in a squeezy-tight way.I wonder if the 'teeth'(clamps)bite widely enough to make the necessary contact.Again,I think this device is only good for certain (low) ampere circuits.
UPDATE Edit: these splice kits are no longer available. Any other suggestion other than a junction box?
I’m doing a similar job where I only have room for a splice. However, I wasn’t aware of the splice kit or even if they were safe. So I appreciate you sharing this information, thank you.
Lots of opinions in the comments as to whether this is safe or not. These are used to splice sections of manufactured housing together (double-wides). But the NEC allows them to be used for repair as well, not for new work. They are getting hard to find, but I think they're still out there somewhere. It might be the C-word that has made them scarce, and not that they're being discontinued. It's been that way for a lot of electrical supplies, especially where I live. The BEST way to do it is definitely a true junction box. If it's in a decent spot, the junction box could be an outlet or light box. I've heard of lots of guys using metal boxes (handy box with a handy box cover plate---though PLEASE NOTE this is not legal) twist the wires really good with wire nuts, and put the good metal NM clamping connectors on each side of the box, then bury the box in the wall. In my opinion, that would probably be better than these connectors-- though I can't recommend it. ---If there were a short in the metal box, your breaker should trip before any damage could be done. Just my opinion. Thanks for the comment!
- I guess RUclips edited the above comment with a strikethrough
you could always run a new set of Romex sure its a pain in the ass but all the equipment you would need is a decent fish tape just start where the junction would be and snag one of the wires and run pull it out of one side replace that wire with your new Romex and then run the other wire backward (fish tape attaches at the receptacle/switch/box and pull on the wire to advance the tape to the junction where you then hook onto the new Romex before fishing it the rest of the way.) granted you may need a second person to feed if you're covering any amount of distance or crossing planes i.e. ceiling to wall or wall to perpendicular wall.
@CoolLake I have some still that I can sell you.
Although not code, I like plan B Dave
Done right it will never fail.
Make sure to ground metal junction box.
My HOme Depot search says none... and unavailable. I think I will pass.
No F-nnn Way! UL approved these?? EEEK!!!!
Wakodahatchee Chris
Eliminating a junction box means only that...many box's are in attics or crawl spaces. Nowhere does it say you can bury the splice in a wall. I don't think this was meant for every situation...but I could be wrong.
I can see the tiny little screws going right down that open drain.
These are a great idea if they work but putting them inside a wall is a code violation for the same reason as hiding a junction box inside a wall. junction boxes are not allowed to be buried due to if there is an issue with the electrical connections the junction is 1) not accessible; 2) if the home is sold the new home owner does not know about the box, making troubleshooting harder for the next technician.
My sister-in-law trailer caught fire. Insurance adjuster found fault was this type connection in corner that fed circuit That she was using to iron clothes.
Good info, David. Thanks.
These are a large leap for romex repair but the fact is that the connection exists in the wall would freak me out. They look like a connector that should be used for 12v low amperage. "Scotch Locks" lol.
So Tyco is now "Te connection" and this product is hard to find. But their is another company with a nearly identical product its NSI and the model is NMS-2, they also have a great splice and tap version NMT-2.
OK, you joined the cables, but I would just have put an outlet up there. (After all you never know when you might want to vacuum the ceiling or something.) Or you could just put a blank cover over the hole and paint it to match the surrounding wallboard. Who's gonna complain about that?
Thanks for the Video & on what to buy. I have a couple of wires in my roof I needed to reattach but had no clue what I needed to buy to do that.
I would not feel safe using this. I would prefer using inline splices that are soldered with heat shrink tubing over the individual splices . May not be code approved but a lot sturdier connection
If it's impossible to have a junction box, Wago in a gel box is a way to go. I install them for 20 years, and never had a failed one.
It would be even better to do the job right.
Over the years I have open up many ceilings at fires and found many time that the connections were wrap in aluminum foil.
"Yes dear, patching the ugly hole is on my list."
Great find and exactly what I was looking for - thanks for sharing.
Seriously dangerous and a potential fire hazard. Do not use.
Dont use them!!
Very helpful video. I'm installing flush mount LED lights and the fixture doesn't allow room for the wire nuts so the wires need to be in the ceiling. Thought I would need a junction box, which would require more work and tools. Thanks for your easy to understand video. Well done.
Thanks for watching, Daniel.
Please increase your fire insurance.
I have used solder and barrel connectors to fix cut romex. Heat shrink over solder and rubber tape to make the splice. Always thought a junction was three or more wires at one point or a fixture. Never had a failure in over 30 years. However, in my own home I use conduit never that romex garbage. Rat chewed wiring can arc and start fires. On the good side I never used wood to build my home.
soldered connections aren't code compliant, neither is the rubber tape, you must use something like heat shrink that is equivalent to the insulating material used on the conductor.
@@jesseewing7948 Honestly I could care less about the code, no one will ever see this unless they pull the wires. Electronic equipment has extensive amounts of soldered wires and all crimp fittings corrode in our humid, salty air. Romex in my opinion is a horrible way to wire a home and should never have been allowed under any code. It goes to show that money buys compliance. Rodent chewed Romex has started fires I know of one that happened in a home. I do not think it is allowed in commercial applications?
@@chargermopar romex in a residential setting is perfectly fine as long as it is installed properly, plus most homeowners would definitely balk at the inflated cost of running mc as it is roughly 2x the price for the same gauge, requires more expensive junction boxes , as well as the necessary connectors for the mc which aren't needed for romex, and that is before considering the fact that it takes more time to install which will further drive up price. you can definitely run it if you choose to go above and beyond code, but it isn't necessary.
I will concede that rodents do enjoy chewing up romex, but that means there are other problems with the structure that are leading to rodents being able to access the wire so it isn't really the fault of the wire in that case.
as for the commercial application question, that is a different matter as the materials for building construction are different and all the metal used in commercial construction lead to possible damage to the romex which is why you would use mc instead, however technically you can use it as long as it isn't subject to physical damage like in a raceway (as long as approved by the AHJ.)
yea right like mice, rats cant or wont chew through pvc conduit either. or unless you one of those EMT is the greatest thing since man discovered fire types. EMT rusts, has its own issues
@@harveylong5878 My home has all emt except in the concrete which is pvc. 62 years in the parent's home and 32 in mine. No rust or failures yet.
Sure, let’s encourage folks to violate the code. The use of such devices is limited to only certain locations on manufactured homes.
In practical terms, it’s amazing how often I find electrical faults develop where wires connect - no Matt how well concealed. What should be a five minute troubleshooting job can take days as you attempt to find the problem.
Its not even the code, devices like those fail frequently legal or not. Its just the lazy mans way of doing it. I cant believe he would make a video to show people how to do something dangerous to save time.
@@RadioRich100 Yeah, kind of odd seeing him going from essentially the 'proper' repair to a buried time-bomb.
@@vincemajestyk9497 You got that right. Its hard to believe he would make a video to show people he did it.
I would prefer to violate the electric code and make a proper connection with wire nuts in a box and leave it buried in the wall or ceiling. This splice kit looks like a real pain to use.
saw this vid a year too late, yesterday, 3/17/22 had an extremely tight area & not able cut it larger. Had a very difficult time installing a 4" round box. If I had seen this device sooner, would have been extremely easier & quicker. Thanks for the vid, loved it.
Thanks for the comment, Ed… I feel for you!
Video should be titled, "How to start a housefire"
Never in a million years would I use one!
home depot and lowes both sell electrical and plumbing fixtures that do not meet code.
yet you still see/find licensed sparkies shopping there, buying supplies there
IMO, I think that wire nuts heavily wrapped in electrical is FAR safer than this. Wire nuts are going to give a far more direct tight connection than this. When tightly wrapped, far better direct connection
Yes but these provide you with one thing that wire nuts do not, visual inspection. I work in industrial HV and EU standards are about 10 yrs ahead of North Am., these connectors are very common in some EU countries. I could easily see these become standard over single circuit junction.
Wrapping wire nuts in electrical tape doesn’t add value to the connections. Complete the prep and wire nut install properly and you’re golden, done, finished, complete…
Wow, this beefy boy looks like it can handle hundrets of milli amps!
Those of you that are licensed electricians, explain to me why this, hidden in a wall or ceiling meets code but a junction box hidden in a wall or ceiling does not. I would trust properly connected wires inside a sealed junction box to last the life of the home. This device, however, is just a giant scotch lock. Scotch locks are fine for low voltage but this is 120 so the poor connection surface provided by this device would seem to me to create resistance and hot spots that could eventually cause a short and perhaps a fire. It appears to me that this device would create the same risk as connecting a 10ga wire to a 12 or 14 ga wire? What do you professional electricians think?
Thanks for the video, great job
Thanks for watching!
I'd never use one for the reasons others have described.
IDC ( insulation-displacement contact) connectors are not meant to be reused. The contacts can get misshaped so I hope you didn't use the connectors that you used for "pracrice".
That's exactly what he did, don't take his advice.
Very cool useful item. What would be nice is if they have a 3 way connector where you could add (another outlet ) to a run. Not sure maybe they have something like that and I’m just not aware of that?
They actually do, David. It’s called a “tap” kit. But they’re really hard to find, because these connectors are really only allowed for “repairs.”
Not so cool when they catch fire.
Function at the junction.
These are once and done - they cannot and should not be re-used - especially on different gauge wire !!
Great solution. I would have no problem doing this in my home, particularly because I would know where it is if there was a problem. Actually seems more elaborate than what would be needed.
Thanks, Joseph. Researching this, I've seen a lot of electricians on forums saying they just hide metal boxes in the walls. Seems like if someone used push connectors inside a metal box, then secured the cable clamps really good, that would be as good or better than these ... but these were legal and I hadn't seen a video on it, so I thought I'd do one myself.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY push connections are junk. Wire nuts are a much better connection.
@@FamilyFriendlyDIY they still need to be accessed on behind wall applications so they are only good for wiring that is visible like in unfinished basements or attics otherwise use a box and cover for access codes
Stick to plumbing joseph ! These things are absolute GARBAGE !! Seen them BLACK from all the heat and arcing inside the shitty terminals the wire pinches into !!!!
As long as it's 'your' home. A lot of people think this way, then they sell their house. Pity the next owner.
Product was discontinued:???
For #12 wire yet. Probably work perfect forever. ;)
Would a small wago box be better with wago spring lever action ?
Scotch-lock connectors (for low voltage automotive applications) have a bad reputation for failing; - And use a similar Insulation Displacement connections as this product so I would definitely not use this product.
Scotchloks fail in automotive applications mostly because of moisture, vibration, and improper use like using the wrong connector for the wire size. IDC connectors are used on basically all copper telecom and data lines and survive much better in that application. I do occasionally hear about these particular connectors failing in modular homes but not nearly as frequently as their automotive counterparts.
Just because you can doesn't mean you should!
You couldn't make me use those even at gun point. Just paint a nice cover for the junction box. Twisting the wires before using a marr connector(wire nut) is the best way to make a splice.
My biggest complaint about these splices is that you must cut the wire. Why? Since they are using those stupid insulation cutting V connectors anyway, which are unreliable, why not allow the conductors to remain intact? For situations where you are eliminating a box it's no big deal. for situations where you are fixing damaged insulation, it's rediculous to require cutting the conductors just to fix the insulation.