When I rewired my 1950 home I used Wagos in all my jboxes. When I did my panel swap I ended up using an inline to extend a couple of the neutral wires. 5 years later and I've NEVER had an issue.
Used lots of em, best thing ever, Wire nuts are OBSOLETE...Wire nuts actually destroy the wires..Wago don't and don't use knock offs WAGO for the Win. Even new Leviton duplex outlet has a Wago type connection now, wanna bet Wago licensed their technology?
The 221s are rated for 32A, you’re looking at the Japanese ratings. 221s are available in 12AWG or 14AWG maximum versions, so you’re comparing two different sizes. For extending wires I’d recommend the push fit WAGOs, they’re even smaller, the lever ones are only necessary if you’re dealing with stranded conductors.
I bought a pack of these about a month ago thinking it looked like something that could come in handy sometime. Little did I know that a few weeks later they would save my butt! I had some defective wiring and had to cut off power to an entire circuit. Unfortunately that circuit also included the bathroom. Using the Wago 221 I was able to put together a splice in just minutes that allowed me to keep the bathroom powered while I made repairs. During the process I had to re-configure the connection a few times which was as easy as a flip of the levers.
For wet locations (low voltage, 12Vdc) I use Gardner Bender Ox-Gard or similar dielectric grease squirted into the connector before inserting the wire. I’ve used this technique on several trailers and garden equipment and never had any issues. I’m sure any grease will work but the small hole in the squeeze tubes makes squirting the grease into the connector very easy.
One thing I love to use Wagos for is bench testing, theyre great for tempory connections to check funcionality, and ive used them to connect meter probes to check continuity on items like float switches to check that they do open/close the circuit
I always have an extension cord with wagos that I can quickly connect to smart light switches. I typically configure, program, and label them before an install. quicker and easier than wirenuts.
I just discovered the Wago and am using them in my new garage build. I LOVE THEM. Also, as a model railroader, the in-line Wagos are going to be a great product, especially for module connections. 2, 4, and 6 port in-line would be fantastic.
There are cheap Chinese ones that have several inline connections. Should be fine for low voltage. I wouldn't trust them for house AC wiring. Genuine WAGOs are already inexpensive, can't be much profit or savings in counterfeits or versions that aren't trying to be fake WAGO.
I didn't watch the full video but one thing I always say about these connectors is that you can use a pinch action with finger and thumb in one hand to open the connector. Absolutely brilliant when reaching into a tool belt and open the connector as your getting one from the pouch. If your fitting 30 or 40 of these when moving a distribution board or even up a set of steps... that simple pinch action to open them saves serious time!
For ceiling light fixtures I have been using the WAGO 224 series (112 and 101) connectors for years. Shorter than the new 221 inline and they handle the stranded wire of the fixture very well. Also the 224-112 allows you to connect two neutral wires or just one, as required, still in the small package.
Yes indeed they're super compact and come in different variants, making light-fixture installation much easier, no more awkwardly balancing lamps while dealing with screw connectors. They were the first ones I've been using regularly since the older wago terminal blocks sometimes were just to big for junction boxes around here and i rather used the old VDE doly connectors there.
Also, if you're trying to hold up a light fixture in one hand and connect wires with the other one while your mother is standing worriedly at the base of the ladder wondering if her son is going to electrocute himself, despite said son being a grown-ass middle-aged man, it's a lot faster to hook up Wagos than traditional wire nuts. Hypothetically speaking.
I had an accident last November that resulted in me not being able to use my right index finger for ~4 months. I had to add another light to a hallway and from watching your videos I decided to change from wire nuts to the Wago connectors. I couldn’t twist wire nuts, but the Wago connectors clicked easily. Thanks for the info and insight into this handy, easy to use connectors.
Traditional wagos also have the cutout for sticking a probe. It's on the back side, opposite to the inlet for wires. But these in-line splices are definitely a nice to have item.
I just did a project with these connectors and they are excellent. I used the inline splices and also the side by side in various sizes up to 5X conductors.
Thanks, I just ordered these. My den is wired with 12 gauge, but the line coming in to the room is 14 gauge. I've been using the regular 221's for a couple of years now and they're great. Especially the inline connectors which are useful where an older home might have short or metal fatigued wires in the box leaving a short wire when it breaks.
@@ShyRage1 Here's my take, if I understand your question: If you are pigtailing, within an receptacle box, for example, that is standard practice. But anytime you need to connect romex outside a box, you need to install a junction box. You put a blank cover on such a box, since there needs to be access to it on a wall. You have to look at the electric code to know for sure, also there may be additional local regulations. I'm not an electrician, so if a pro knows better, please correct what I wrote.
These are especially useful qhen doing reovations where conditions are not ideal. I once had to splice 5 wires together. They do make wire nuts that can handle that many wires, but good luck twisting that much copper together. These Wago connectors provided a very elegant solution!
I far prefer the 32A rated 18-12 AWG inline WAGOs to the less robust version, but it should be noted that the wire receivers are still a bit smaller than on the 20-10 AWG 30A non-inline WAGO. So, for example, I have lots of stranded wires of various gauges and lengths that I reuse constantly for various projects and I have ferrules on them to keep the copper from becoming a mess. Even though WAGOs can take stranded wire, ferrules are really convenient when messing around. The 12 gauge ferrules that still fit into the 30A non-inline WAGO don't fit into the 32A inline WAGO. Note that with big enough wire, you can put a single piece of heat-shrink around the entire WAGO inline connector, too, from end-to-end, and seal the whole thing up. One thing I found replacing old fixtures in my house, is that the original installers used wire nuts to connect the stranded wire from the fixture to the solid house wiring, and for quite a few of them the stranded wire had become extremely loose. I started replacing the wire nuts on all the fixtures after I tracked down one where the bulbs (even LED bulbs) kept failing and flickering due to that problem.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 All wire splices should always be done inside boxes or fixtures. Never have wire splices just laying bare on the framing in the attic or anywhere else. Wrapping with electrical tape doesn't count as a box either. There are boxes made specifically for this purpose. You should be able to find various videos on how to safely run wiring through an attic or basement.
@@junkerzn7312 Yeah I was wondering because they used to sell splices rated to not be used with a box, but apparently they took them off the market. These are not a replacement for those apparently.
I used the Wago inline connector for my sprinkler system. Used the waterproof box with the connector, so no problem using them in a wet location. A little more expensive than a regular butt connector and shrink wrap, but it was easy to use and it works well.
1 good thing Wago connectors are good at is testing automotive electrical conations before soldering them or crimping them. with the Wago connectors you can easily reverse the mistakes.
I appreciate you doing these videos on the WAGOs - your in depth look at these through several videos greatly helped me doing some wiring fixes and additions to my house which was built in 1952 and while all the electrical is still in good shape, like many older homes there aren't enough outlets, lights, etc. Having the option to use WAGOs especially as you mention for extending wires that are too short. I've used that trick a bunch with WAGO connectors. They also make adding additional overhead lights from another light already on a switch (and the mixing of stranded adn solid). Thanks again!
@@ShyRage1 Yes - I used them to extend some overhead lights in my basement instead of wire nuts. Easy to use and easy to remove if later I want to remove them.
one other thing to bear in mind, if not already obvious, Wagos work great with DC too just derate the voltage somewhat but current rating should be good. I'm constantly using these for DC power and AC test cables. They are also useful for safely terminating an unused CPC connection (no earth needed on double insulated stuff ... In UK/Europe anyway)!
Hey, thanks for explaining between the two inline models! I have 12g wire and didn't realize I needed the 2401! They're on the way now, in time for a project next week.
@TheChipmunk2008 Yes and no. 221s are a family of different connecters but you then have different models of the 221. In the in lines there is the 221-2401 and the 221-2411. The 221-2411 can only handle up to 14 gauge wire. The 221-2401 can handle 14 gauge as well with a max at 12 gauge. So there is a difference.
I think you could make them waterproof just by using shrink tubing, and if you want to go the extra mile, you can apply silicone to the inside of the shrink tubeing 😊
So glad you directed me to this video. So I apparently want to use a butt connector because even if the wires are safe inside a 1/2" conduit maybe some condensation drips down the wires and hits the WAGO. So I have to follow with the butt connectors, or what I have been calling the Crimp/Shrink.
While Wagos may be pricey, let's not forget that they are reusable and don't require retrimming the wires upon disassembly. I would think these are perfect for temporarily work like staging/holiday displays/jobsite/theatre, etc.
In the UK they're considered as "maintenance free" so can be buried in plaster etc. (as long as they're in a box) as permanent connections, if we used wire nuts (which we don't) they would never be approved as maintenance free and so access would be required to them.
In a wet environment use a marine crimp which has the heat shrink but also a heat activated sealant inside. A heat shrink is not going to prevent water intrusion.
One thing I always thought would be nice to have would be connectors where 2 (or more) go in one side and 1 out the other side-- I find myself having to do a nearly 180 bend in one of my wires when wiring outlets, for instance.
I've used Wago lever nuts since 2017 and since then have changed most of my switches and receptacles in two houses, plus put in ceiling lights, fans, etc, and rewired lamps. I just saw the inline connectors and ordered some, since I was doing some more wiring. I was disappointed that I couldn't use them in the current application, but am sure I will. I've had the levers pop up a few times, so started to wrap them in electrical tape, then I don't worry about it happening. ETA, it's surprising how many of the traditional wire nuts come loose over time, which is what I've found when I replaced them. It would be very rare for me to use wire nuts instead of Wagos. Wagos are def safer.
The new inline has uses in things like quick connects for hobbies e.g. radio antennas, electric fences, model railroads and you name it! I also recommend the 3 or 4 wire splices so there is a spare terminal to use as a voltage test point. Leviton now has Decora Edge receptacles with lever-locking connection terminals.
Thanks for adding the important tip of using a butt connector due to being in a water-likely environment and a butt connector would be a better choice over the WAGO 221.
Unfortunately, america has been held back for too long on newer things like these. We still allow wire nuts when most modern countries abandon them years ago. Wago style connections are normal in a lot of countries and have been for decades. I dont know when it happened, but it's nice to see these getting attention here.
Innovation? Take a second look on how many years they are already used in other countries already. :D But for the completly outdated US installations they are a big step forward, yes.
just bought a heap of these I am replacing 12 downlights and a track light , getting rid of the transformers and just connecting the wires to the down light wires that come with a plug which I am cutting off .I will tape around the connection as well just in case.
we started using these Wago connectors at work for small projects... (haven't used any inline ones yet) one thing I would love to see is a version of these devices that are safe to use with Aluminum wire for safely updating old outlets in houses that have aluminum wiring from the 70's to save money back then... any ideas here? the purple wire nuts are stupid expensive and very messy. Also worth mentioning... most of my aluminum wire on 20A circuits is 10 AWG wire so they wouldn't work with the standard 221 type connectors anyway...
The problem with aluminum is if there's any moisture, there's a reaction where the copper eats away at the aluminum. I don't think it's necessarily the wires interacting (they don't), but the bus bar is made of tinned copper. WAGO sells a contact paste called Alu-Plus that's supposed to make it safe to mix copper and aluminum.
Always think it's crazy how americans describe Wago connectors as a DIY solution for low current applications, when in reality they are objectively superior to wire-nuts in every way.
What I don't get, is, why they always only talk about the more expensive lever wagos. I would assume that most installations are made with solid wire connections, no matter if in the US or the EU -- and for those are the cheaper push in wagos better suited anyway. I use the ones with the levers only when stranded wires are involved in any way.
The 221-2411 is approved up to 4 square millimeters in Europe. That would actually correspond to AWG 12. But this one only got approval up to AWG 14 in the US. The 221-2401 got approval for AWG 12, or 4 mm2. The 221-2411 is AWG 14 or 4mm2
If you think these are great check out the Wago 224-112 and the Wago 2273-203. I have been using the 2273-203 in my house to pigtail to the aluminum wiring. I wasn't a fan of the purple wire nuts and the Alumiconns take up too much space in the boxes.
Alumiconns have the anti-oxidizer, which the Wagos don't. Alumiconns also have torque specs, which is impossible with the Wago. I wouldn't use these on aluminum wiring.
I used something similar for a Infared panel, to adapt solid core to Flexible [which is then connected to a LD20 connector that sits between the wires] Reason I used a LD20: because if I need to remove the panel, its easier to remove. than having to hold the panel and remove the wago's. since you just need to disconnect the LD20 connector.
That is down right lazy. Solder and/or butt connectors. These are meant for static environments not one where they move around with ever turn and bump. I installed emergency equipment for years as a teen. Taking shortcuts is dangerous and foolish.
Some homes, built in the 70s, used 12 ga Aluminum in 15 amp circuits instead of 14 gauge copper. (These homes still used 12 ga copper in 20 amp circuits. All of which met code at the time,) Can Wago connectors be used with Aluminum? Aluminum rated receptacles and switches are usually labeled and are also compatible with copper. Aluminum devices, typically, have only screw terminal connection capability and do not have "back stabbing" or other quick wiring capabilities.
These are great for very small gauge wires as they are able to accept wires down to 0.2mm2 - the red butt crimp connectors are 0.5mm2 minimum and struggle with thin wires
Can you use this to connect a broken capacitor wire back together. Due to the nature of its location the wire vibration on the chassis opened it up shorting out generator. Capacitor is for small Thomas model 2755 compressor 220v . Cap rated for 15uF. Any suggestions would be great.
@@HowToHomeDIY At that point, if you could get your hands on a European socket with a push-button-release push-fit connection and compare it to the two, that'd be great. People too often mix them up with back-stabs in yt comments, not realising those use different mechanisms.
Can you use this to connect dissimilar wires? Many lighting fixtures are coming with aluminum wires (including the ground) and the house wires are usually copper. If you can do this, do you need to add any substance to the wire(s)? Thanks.
Check your lighting fixtures wires closely because sometimes they appear to be aluminium, but they are just stranded copper coated with some kind of silver color metal. Check the model numbers on the wires, google them and it'll probably say something like tin-plated copper wire, which is fine with Wagos without using the substance that they also do sell in case you really do have aluminium fixtures.
Nice video and presentation. The new model in line terminal is a good idea but short from completion, owing to the total length is just too long. It can be however more completed in different manner. Such that each bare copper tip passed each other saving valuable space. This is possible with each leaver designed rotated 180° axially. And let developers take care of design details.
Can you give us use case with each of these wago?? Some I’ve seen would need a 4 connector just for an outlet. Scenario was a T out from the wire run to the receptacle so that you have continued power even if the receptacle goes out? Why is this type of run not standard? So one for the hot side, the bench to the receptacle the branch back to complete receptacle circuit and the line to continue the run
I think they are a great option. I am amazed at how they have done such a poor job with the model numbers (series and sub series) of the different parts. It is like they ran out of numbers to use. What does 221 stand for? Amperage (nope), size class (nope), gauge range (nope), number of wires (nope).
221 is the series number. Just like 223 for the grey plastic models or 773 for the back-stabs, etc. It's arbitrary but not so confusing once you get used to it.
Do they make a inline one, One Main Line Wire in, Two Load Wires out? Now that I have LED Outside Flood Lights, would like to add a box in the Attic, go to the Original Light and a Flood on the side of the house.
The 2773 is a bit smaler but a push in connector for solid wire. If you miss something, write them and if it is a cool feature they'll develop something😉
I would say no. I thought the same thing to help prevent accidently opening the lever.. however, the adhesive nature of tape could actually open it if the tape starts to come undone. All that said, I am not an electrician, so maybe someone with more knowledge could correct/verify.
In the UK wirenuts were banned 50 years ago as they tended to fall off over time with the electrical vibration. You had to be vigilant to ensure when you pushed them into the back of the box that they were vertical.
20Amps in JET certifications (which is in Japan), ENEC (in Europe) and UL (for USA) certified them for 32 Amps for the ones fitting AWG 24-12, For Europe at least, they're certified to handle more amps than the wire connecting, as the max wire size that fits, 4mm^2 (I guess it's AWG 12), would handle a max of 25Amps you can actually get them in a bigger size for AWG 20-10, which are certified for 41 Amps (ENEC and UL)
You dont need to Open the Wago if you use it with Solid core wire. You can Push it in Even if the wago is closed. This obviously don’t work with stranded wire :)
Man! Whoever cuts the wires to the point that they only leave an inch out at most is a modal focal. And poor you when you call one of those “electricians”,specially the ones with a very big beer gut,that when they see that the wires are either an inch or half an inch out,they quote you ridiculously and always come up with the solution that opening the wall is the better option to do some rewiring. I mean! Wire nuts work great when you have some leverage with the wires,but these wago connectors can do some magic at the right moment,right place. They really save you from a major headache.
Really like these things. Would be great to use on my 3d printers to be able to swap out fans quickly. Still pricey though compared to wire nuts :) Yep, I am cheap LOL Does that tester opening have a cover on it? I know I am pulling at straws here but what happens if a metal flake or another wire comes loose in the box and gets in that hole? Probably a 1 in a billion chance but just curious if there is a way to close that off before tucking it into the box.
"what happens if a metal flake or another wire comes loose in the box and gets in that hole?" The same thing that would happen to a wire nut which still has openings where the wires go in. And for swapping things in an out, these won't damage the wire like wire nuts will. I'm sure you've lost strands of wire when swapping things out. Yes they are more expensive than wire nuts but they are much better all around as well. You get what you pay for.
So the next version should be like the side-by-side 221, except with one of the sides reversed. Concerning how easy it is to flip the lever on one version, I wonder if it is as easy when it is grabbing a wire? Does it vary by the gauge of the wire? I would expect yes to both, with the heavier wire resulting in a somewhat tighter level.
They're not rated for high-vibration environments, as the spring holding the wire in could bounce. But for a car stereo, I wouldn't worry. But I'd fold the power wire over the connector and throw a zip tie on it, shorting that one to ground can be nasty.
@@HenryLoenwind Yeah, the key would be to prevent the wires from twisting in the connector because they can pop out that way, just like in Wago's backstabs.
Have you used these yet? Pretty nifty for certain installs I think.
Yep just got mine delivered from Amazon. Going to use them for chandelier wiring
I bought the #12 version and they work great for extending short wires or in cluttered boxes.
I have been using WAGO for the past 5 years especially with converting existing fluorescent lights to LED.
When I rewired my 1950 home I used Wagos in all my jboxes. When I did my panel swap I ended up using an inline to extend a couple of the neutral wires. 5 years later and I've NEVER had an issue.
Used lots of em, best thing ever, Wire nuts are OBSOLETE...Wire nuts actually destroy the wires..Wago don't and don't use knock offs WAGO for the Win. Even new Leviton duplex outlet has a Wago type connection now, wanna bet Wago licensed their technology?
The 221s are rated for 32A, you’re looking at the Japanese ratings. 221s are available in 12AWG or 14AWG maximum versions, so you’re comparing two different sizes. For extending wires I’d recommend the push fit WAGOs, they’re even smaller, the lever ones are only necessary if you’re dealing with stranded conductors.
Yes, check video at 4:15, it shows the US rating is 32 amps on left side.
There are IEC/EN(32A) and UL(20A) ratings printed. Neither is a japanese rating.
@@danielrose1392 Wrong. 20A rating is for PSE JET which are Japanese.
In addition to what the other commenters have said, the maximum sizes for are 10awg (221-61*) and 12awg (221-41*) not 12 and 14
Also, 32 amps at 450 volts.
I bought a pack of these about a month ago thinking it looked like something that could come in handy sometime. Little did I know that a few weeks later they would save my butt! I had some defective wiring and had to cut off power to an entire circuit. Unfortunately that circuit also included the bathroom. Using the Wago 221 I was able to put together a splice in just minutes that allowed me to keep the bathroom powered while I made repairs. During the process I had to re-configure the connection a few times which was as easy as a flip of the levers.
For wet locations (low voltage, 12Vdc) I use Gardner Bender Ox-Gard or similar dielectric grease squirted into the connector before inserting the wire. I’ve used this technique on several trailers and garden equipment and never had any issues. I’m sure any grease will work but the small hole in the squeeze tubes makes squirting the grease into the connector very easy.
One thing I love to use Wagos for is bench testing, theyre great for tempory connections to check funcionality, and ive used them to connect meter probes to check continuity on items like float switches to check that they do open/close the circuit
Uuu777u7 up 77😢
I always have an extension cord with wagos that I can quickly connect to smart light switches. I typically configure, program, and label them before an install. quicker and easier than wirenuts.
I used the Wago inline connector for a ceiling fan with light connections in a pancake box. Worked great.
I just discovered the Wago and am using them in my new garage build. I LOVE THEM. Also, as a model railroader, the in-line Wagos are going to be a great product, especially for module connections. 2, 4, and 6 port in-line would be fantastic.
There are cheap Chinese ones that have several inline connections. Should be fine for low voltage. I wouldn't trust them for house AC wiring. Genuine WAGOs are already inexpensive, can't be much profit or savings in counterfeits or versions that aren't trying to be fake WAGO.
Chinese also have inline 1 to 2 or 1 to 3 versions. They're not as high quality though but fine for say 3d printer and such hobby stuff.
I didn't watch the full video but one thing I always say about these connectors is that you can use a pinch action with finger and thumb in one hand to open the connector. Absolutely brilliant when reaching into a tool belt and open the connector as your getting one from the pouch. If your fitting 30 or 40 of these when moving a distribution board or even up a set of steps... that simple pinch action to open them saves serious time!
For ceiling light fixtures I have been using the WAGO 224 series (112 and 101) connectors for years. Shorter than the new 221 inline and they handle the stranded wire of the fixture very well. Also the 224-112 allows you to connect two neutral wires or just one, as required, still in the small package.
Yes indeed they're super compact and come in different variants, making light-fixture installation much easier, no more awkwardly balancing lamps while dealing with screw connectors. They were the first ones I've been using regularly since the older wago terminal blocks sometimes were just to big for junction boxes around here and i rather used the old VDE doly connectors there.
Also, if you're trying to hold up a light fixture in one hand and connect wires with the other one while your mother is standing worriedly at the base of the ladder wondering if her son is going to electrocute himself, despite said son being a grown-ass middle-aged man, it's a lot faster to hook up Wagos than traditional wire nuts. Hypothetically speaking.
I had an accident last November that resulted in me not being able to use my right index finger for ~4 months. I had to add another light to a hallway and from watching your videos I decided to change from wire nuts to the Wago connectors. I couldn’t twist wire nuts, but the Wago connectors clicked easily. Thanks for the info and insight into this handy, easy to use connectors.
Traditional wagos also have the cutout for sticking a probe. It's on the back side, opposite to the inlet for wires. But these in-line splices are definitely a nice to have item.
I just did a project with these connectors and they are excellent. I used the inline splices and also the side by side in various sizes up to 5X conductors.
Discovered the inline version from your video. Love them. Used them to replace a couple broken plastic connectors in my car.
Thanks, I just ordered these. My den is wired with 12 gauge, but the line coming in to the room is 14 gauge. I've been using the regular 221's for a couple of years now and they're great. Especially the inline connectors which are useful where an older home might have short or metal fatigued wires in the box leaving a short wire when it breaks.
so you can use these to connent 14/2 romex together?
@@ShyRage1 Here's my take, if I understand your question:
If you are pigtailing, within an receptacle box, for example, that is standard practice.
But anytime you need to connect romex outside a box, you need to install a junction box. You put a blank cover on such a box, since there needs to be access to it on a wall.
You have to look at the electric code to know for sure, also there may be additional local regulations.
I'm not an electrician, so if a pro knows better, please correct what I wrote.
These are especially useful qhen doing reovations where conditions are not ideal. I once had to splice 5 wires together. They do make wire nuts that can handle that many wires, but good luck twisting that much copper together. These Wago connectors provided a very elegant solution!
I far prefer the 32A rated 18-12 AWG inline WAGOs to the less robust version, but it should be noted that the wire receivers are still a bit smaller than on the 20-10 AWG 30A non-inline WAGO. So, for example, I have lots of stranded wires of various gauges and lengths that I reuse constantly for various projects and I have ferrules on them to keep the copper from becoming a mess. Even though WAGOs can take stranded wire, ferrules are really convenient when messing around. The 12 gauge ferrules that still fit into the 30A non-inline WAGO don't fit into the 32A inline WAGO.
Note that with big enough wire, you can put a single piece of heat-shrink around the entire WAGO inline connector, too, from end-to-end, and seal the whole thing up.
One thing I found replacing old fixtures in my house, is that the original installers used wire nuts to connect the stranded wire from the fixture to the solid house wiring, and for quite a few of them the stranded wire had become extremely loose. I started replacing the wire nuts on all the fixtures after I tracked down one where the bulbs (even LED bulbs) kept failing and flickering due to that problem.
Can these only be used in a box or can they be used in an attic without a box?
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 All wire splices should always be done inside boxes or fixtures. Never have wire splices just laying bare on the framing in the attic or anywhere else. Wrapping with electrical tape doesn't count as a box either.
There are boxes made specifically for this purpose. You should be able to find various videos on how to safely run wiring through an attic or basement.
@@junkerzn7312 Yeah I was wondering because they used to sell splices rated to not be used with a box, but apparently they took them off the market. These are not a replacement for those apparently.
@@bobbygetsbanned6049 do you remember what they were called? It sounds super interesting and I’d like to try to research them.
@@SquishyZoran No but if you google "in wall romex splice" you can find one made by Tyco. I think there were other brands too.
I used the Wago inline connector for my sprinkler system. Used the waterproof box with the connector, so no problem using them in a wet location. A little more expensive than a regular butt connector and shrink wrap, but it was easy to use and it works well.
1 good thing Wago connectors are good at is testing automotive electrical conations before soldering them or crimping them. with the Wago connectors you can easily reverse the mistakes.
I appreciate you doing these videos on the WAGOs - your in depth look at these through several videos greatly helped me doing some wiring fixes and additions to my house which was built in 1952 and while all the electrical is still in good shape, like many older homes there aren't enough outlets, lights, etc. Having the option to use WAGOs especially as you mention for extending wires that are too short. I've used that trick a bunch with WAGO connectors. They also make adding additional overhead lights from another light already on a switch (and the mixing of stranded adn solid). Thanks again!
so you can use these to connent 14/2 romex together?
@@ShyRage1 Yes - I used them to extend some overhead lights in my basement instead of wire nuts. Easy to use and easy to remove if later I want to remove them.
one other thing to bear in mind, if not already obvious, Wagos work great with DC too just derate the voltage somewhat but current rating should be good. I'm constantly using these for DC power and AC test cables. They are also useful for safely terminating an unused CPC connection (no earth needed on double insulated stuff ... In UK/Europe anyway)!
These are great for splicing wires and extending short wires. You just can't beat the space savings.
so you can use these to connent 14/2 romex together?
Hey, thanks for explaining between the two inline models! I have 12g wire and didn't realize I needed the 2401! They're on the way now, in time for a project next week.
You don't. 221s can do 12g
@TheChipmunk2008 Yes and no. 221s are a family of different connecters but you then have different models of the 221. In the in lines there is the 221-2401 and the 221-2411. The 221-2411 can only handle up to 14 gauge wire. The 221-2401 can handle 14 gauge as well with a max at 12 gauge. So there is a difference.
Regarding waterproofing, there is a Wago Gel Box for this concern but you can always put a sleeve of heat shrink on o Wago in-line.
I think you could make them waterproof just by using shrink tubing, and if you want to go the extra mile, you can apply silicone to the inside of the shrink tubeing 😊
So glad you directed me to this video. So I apparently want to use a butt connector because even if the wires are safe inside a 1/2" conduit maybe some condensation drips down the wires and hits the WAGO. So I have to follow with the butt connectors, or what I have been calling the Crimp/Shrink.
While Wagos may be pricey, let's not forget that they are reusable and don't require retrimming the wires upon disassembly.
I would think these are perfect for temporarily work like staging/holiday displays/jobsite/theatre, etc.
In the UK they're considered as "maintenance free" so can be buried in plaster etc. (as long as they're in a box) as permanent connections, if we used wire nuts (which we don't) they would never be approved as maintenance free and so access would be required to them.
@@mfx1, so noted, although all connections of any kind must be readily accessible here in the States.
In a wet environment use a marine crimp which has the heat shrink but also a heat activated sealant inside. A heat shrink is not going to prevent water intrusion.
Both are awesome for me in HVAC. Makes wiring WAY easier to read and cleaner looking.
One thing I always thought would be nice to have would be connectors where 2 (or more) go in one side and 1 out the other side-- I find myself having to do a nearly 180 bend in one of my wires when wiring outlets, for instance.
They do exists and I love them
Look at the Wago 224 series
I've used Wago lever nuts since 2017 and since then have changed most of my switches and receptacles in two houses, plus put in ceiling lights, fans, etc, and rewired lamps. I just saw the inline connectors and ordered some, since I was doing some more wiring. I was disappointed that I couldn't use them in the current application, but am sure I will. I've had the levers pop up a few times, so started to wrap them in electrical tape, then I don't worry about it happening.
ETA, it's surprising how many of the traditional wire nuts come loose over time, which is what I've found when I replaced them. It would be very rare for me to use wire nuts instead of Wagos. Wagos are def safer.
The new inline has uses in things like quick connects for hobbies e.g. radio antennas, electric fences, model railroads and you name it! I also recommend the 3 or 4 wire splices so there is a spare terminal to use as a voltage test point. Leviton now has Decora Edge receptacles with lever-locking connection terminals.
A very nice, thorough explanation of the Wago connectors! Thanks so much!!! Well worth a subscribe. 😁
I have been an electrical contractor since 1994…. Wago’s work great
Really appreciate the professional feedback Brian!
Thanks, these tips are very helpful for the amateur home electrician.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
Thanks for adding the important tip of using a butt connector due to being in a water-likely environment and a butt connector would be a better choice over the WAGO 221.
Always fascinating to see how Americans can get excited about decades-old technology ... 🤷♂
I love the progression of electrical inventions. It makes it way more confident for old DYI'ers like myself!
Appreciate the input!
Unfortunately, america has been held back for too long on newer things like these. We still allow wire nuts when most modern countries abandon them years ago. Wago style connections are normal in a lot of countries and have been for decades. I dont know when it happened, but it's nice to see these getting attention here.
Innovation? Take a second look on how many years they are already used in other countries already. :D But for the completly outdated US installations they are a big step forward, yes.
just bought a heap of these I am replacing 12 downlights and a track light , getting rid of the transformers and just connecting the wires to the down light wires that come with a plug which I am cutting off .I will tape around the connection as well just in case.
I’ve been using these for a few months now. Definitely have saved me a couple of times.
I ordered a large assortment through your link. Thanks for the information.
we started using these Wago connectors at work for small projects... (haven't used any inline ones yet) one thing I would love to see is a version of these devices that are safe to use with Aluminum wire for safely updating old outlets in houses that have aluminum wiring from the 70's to save money back then... any ideas here? the purple wire nuts are stupid expensive and very messy. Also worth mentioning... most of my aluminum wire on 20A circuits is 10 AWG wire so they wouldn't work with the standard 221 type connectors anyway...
The problem with aluminum is if there's any moisture, there's a reaction where the copper eats away at the aluminum. I don't think it's necessarily the wires interacting (they don't), but the bus bar is made of tinned copper. WAGO sells a contact paste called Alu-Plus that's supposed to make it safe to mix copper and aluminum.
Thanks for the instructions on how to use.
electrician, didnt know about these, ill be buying them through your link thanks
Great video on the WAGO Inline Connectors!
Well done!
Always think it's crazy how americans describe Wago connectors as a DIY solution for low current applications, when in reality they are objectively superior to wire-nuts in every way.
Except cost. They cost about 3-5x as much as wire nuts in bulk.
I NEVER trusted Wire Nuts unless they’re set in epoxy.
What I don't get, is, why they always only talk about the more expensive lever wagos. I would assume that most installations are made with solid wire connections, no matter if in the US or the EU -- and for those are the cheaper push in wagos better suited anyway. I use the ones with the levers only when stranded wires are involved in any way.
Not all Americans refer to them as DIY. Only the dumb Americans who don't want to change their old school ways.
Dumb and sensational videos are easy to push around.
EU here - yep, wago is nice, so is crimped connectors, so is push-in.
The 221-2411 is approved up to 4 square millimeters in Europe. That would actually correspond to AWG 12.
But this one only got approval up to AWG 14 in the US.
The 221-2401 got approval for AWG 12, or 4 mm2.
The 221-2411 is AWG 14 or 4mm2
Yes, I noticed the same thing. Very strange.
There is also a bigger one available, e.g. the 221-612
I have rarely seen the line connector with the white insert in Europe,
but these seem to be preferred in the US.
I like them, not having to bend the wires is nice
Thanks for the info. I can use both variations for different projects.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
If you think these are great check out the Wago 224-112 and the Wago 2273-203. I have been using the 2273-203 in my house to pigtail to the aluminum wiring. I wasn't a fan of the purple wire nuts and the Alumiconns take up too much space in the boxes.
Wagos are not rated for any aluminum conductor.
Alumiconns have the anti-oxidizer, which the Wagos don't. Alumiconns also have torque specs, which is impossible with the Wago. I wouldn't use these on aluminum wiring.
@@Chris-ek4jn if you look up that series of Wago connector, it's rated for Aluminum. They also have an antioxidant that goes on the Wago.
Timely info. May tackle a fee projects and didn't know about the gauge difference
I used something similar for a Infared panel, to adapt solid core to Flexible [which is then connected to a LD20 connector that sits between the wires]
Reason I used a LD20: because if I need to remove the panel, its easier to remove. than having to hold the panel and remove the wago's. since you just need to disconnect the LD20 connector.
These things are absolutely brilliant.
I had one pop like a fuse. Was happy it did that
Thanks!
You are very welcome. Glad you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback and the Super Thanks Pat!
ill have to try these out next time i wire up a J-box
I use those for car stereo installations and so far they are great!
That is down right lazy. Solder and/or butt connectors. These are meant for static environments not one where they move around with ever turn and bump. I installed emergency equipment for years as a teen. Taking shortcuts is dangerous and foolish.
@@nhbountyhunter Try it. You will be glad you did.
@@nhbountyhunter
I've heard that some RV manufacturers have been using them. Seems like a disaster waiting to happen from all the vibration.
Some homes, built in the 70s, used 12 ga Aluminum in 15 amp circuits instead of 14 gauge copper. (These homes still used 12 ga copper in 20 amp circuits. All of which met code at the time,) Can Wago connectors be used with Aluminum? Aluminum rated receptacles and switches are usually labeled and are also compatible with copper. Aluminum devices, typically, have only screw terminal connection capability and do not have "back stabbing" or other quick wiring capabilities.
Why wouldn’t they work with aluminium wire?
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
You are welcome. Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
BTW have you ever use Wago terminal without lifting the leaver up? Just push the solid copper in to see it locked in.
Very helpful. Great info, thank you for sharing.
These are great for very small gauge wires as they are able to accept wires down to 0.2mm2 - the red butt crimp connectors are 0.5mm2 minimum and struggle with thin wires
Can you use this to connect a broken capacitor wire back together. Due to the nature of its location the wire vibration on the chassis opened it up shorting out generator. Capacitor is for small Thomas model 2755 compressor 220v . Cap rated for 15uF. Any suggestions would be great.
Maybe you can tear one of these apart and show how these are making a lot better metal-to-metal contact than the device on a back-stab outlet.
You know what, that’s a great suggestion. Going to add it to the list. Thanks!
@@HowToHomeDIY At that point, if you could get your hands on a European socket with a push-button-release push-fit connection and compare it to the two, that'd be great. People too often mix them up with back-stabs in yt comments, not realising those use different mechanisms.
Can you use this to connect dissimilar wires? Many lighting fixtures are coming with aluminum wires (including the ground) and the house wires are usually copper. If you can do this, do you need to add any substance to the wire(s)? Thanks.
Check your lighting fixtures wires closely because sometimes they appear to be aluminium, but they are just stranded copper coated with some kind of silver color metal. Check the model numbers on the wires, google them and it'll probably say something like tin-plated copper wire, which is fine with Wagos without using the substance that they also do sell in case you really do have aluminium fixtures.
Nice video and presentation.
The new model in line terminal is a good idea but short from completion, owing to the total length is just too long.
It can be however more completed in different manner. Such that each bare copper tip passed each other saving valuable space. This is possible with each leaver designed rotated 180° axially. And let developers take care of design details.
Always helpful information. Thank you.
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
These would be Great for Model Railroading as wire sizes can differ..
That's a really good idea, wouldn't have thought of that
Can you give us use case with each of these wago?? Some I’ve seen would need a 4 connector just for an outlet.
Scenario was a T out from the wire run to the receptacle so that you have continued power even if the receptacle goes out? Why is this type of run not standard? So one for the hot side, the bench to the receptacle the branch back to complete receptacle circuit and the line to continue the run
Very helpful. Thanks
You are very welcome! Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback!
I think they are a great option. I am amazed at how they have done such a poor job with the model numbers (series and sub series) of the different parts. It is like they ran out of numbers to use. What does 221 stand for? Amperage (nope), size class (nope), gauge range (nope), number of wires (nope).
221 is the series number. Just like 223 for the grey plastic models or 773 for the back-stabs, etc. It's arbitrary but not so confusing once you get used to it.
Could one use an inline crimp splice for interior wiring?
Those heat seal butt connectors that you showed are only for STRANDED copper, NOT solid. So they aren’t an adequate substitution.
They are rated 32A you are looking at the PSE Japaneese rating
They’ve had failure issues recently where they get pull out due to the latch door opening partially when putting in the box
I white 3M tape WAGOs shut w 1" long strips.
Do they make a inline one, One Main Line Wire in, Two Load Wires out? Now that I have LED Outside Flood Lights, would like to add a box in the Attic, go to the Original Light and a Flood on the side of the house.
No, you can use a 3 port Wago and bend a u-turn on one wire.
What's a good connector for 5 ton A/C compressor wires? Can I just solder the wires together?
The 2773 is a bit smaler but a push in connector for solid wire. If you miss something, write them and if it is a cool feature they'll develop something😉
Good video. Thank you. Do you recommend wrapping them with electrical tape to make sure they do not accidently open?
the is not in the instructions, so NO
I would say no.
I thought the same thing to help prevent accidently opening the lever.. however, the adhesive nature of tape could actually open it if the tape starts to come undone.
All that said, I am not an electrician, so maybe someone with more knowledge could correct/verify.
In the UK wirenuts were banned 50 years ago as they tended to fall off over time with the electrical vibration. You had to be vigilant to ensure when you pushed them into the back of the box that they were vertical.
Electrical vibration? How does it occur without an inductor?
@@FemboyEngineer You have forgotten electricity is ac
Thank you for the video
I like it. Thanks for the info.
do these have to have a sealed junction box when splicing a connection that is hidden behind sheetrock in USA?
What is a good way to secure the levers? Wrap a piece of electrical tape around it?
Wirenuts are nuts.
They need to make a waterproof in line. Auto mechanics would love them.
20Amps in JET certifications (which is in Japan), ENEC (in Europe) and UL (for USA) certified them for 32 Amps for the ones fitting AWG 24-12,
For Europe at least, they're certified to handle more amps than the wire connecting, as the max wire size that fits, 4mm^2 (I guess it's AWG 12), would handle a max of 25Amps
you can actually get them in a bigger size for AWG 20-10, which are certified for 41 Amps (ENEC and UL)
You dont need to Open the Wago if you use it with Solid core wire. You can Push it in Even if the wago is closed. This obviously don’t work with stranded wire :)
I love to use them as fidget
Man! Whoever cuts the wires to the point that they only leave an inch out at most is a modal focal. And poor you when you call one of those “electricians”,specially the ones with a very big beer gut,that when they see that the wires are either an inch or half an inch out,they quote you ridiculously and always come up with the solution that opening the wall is the better option to do some rewiring. I mean! Wire nuts work great when you have some leverage with the wires,but these wago connectors can do some magic at the right moment,right place. They really save you from a major headache.
Thanks, a lot of help.
You are very welcome. Really glad to hear you liked it. Thanks a lot for the feedback Harry!
Really like these things. Would be great to use on my 3d printers to be able to swap out fans quickly. Still pricey though compared to wire nuts :) Yep, I am cheap LOL
Does that tester opening have a cover on it? I know I am pulling at straws here but what happens if a metal flake or another wire comes loose in the box and gets in that hole? Probably a 1 in a billion chance but just curious if there is a way to close that off before tucking it into the box.
"what happens if a metal flake or another wire comes loose in the box and gets in that hole?" The same thing that would happen to a wire nut which still has openings where the wires go in. And for swapping things in an out, these won't damage the wire like wire nuts will. I'm sure you've lost strands of wire when swapping things out. Yes they are more expensive than wire nuts but they are much better all around as well. You get what you pay for.
can these be used in Automotive engine bays? what's the heat tolerance? thanks.
Probably not due to water intrusion.
I have used them in "under dash" applications. Works great.
One Omission: You neglected to mention the stripping guide on the side of these connectors.
Can these be used in case of older wiring where the ground has been cut short?
Like when replacing ungrounded outlet with a ground one but the ground was cut short in the original wiring.
If you are asking if these can be used to extend a short ground wire in a box yes they can be used for that.
Skip to 6:04 to get your answer
But how do you know the question?
So the next version should be like the side-by-side 221, except with one of the sides reversed.
Concerning how easy it is to flip the lever on one version, I wonder if it is as easy when it is grabbing a wire? Does it vary by the gauge of the wire? I would expect yes to both, with the heavier wire resulting in a somewhat tighter level.
I would love to see that. 4 and 6 connector units, with one side reversed would make wiring positioning extremely convenient.
When used, must they be used inside a junction box?
Yes!!!! Just like a wire Nut
Are those crimp connectors rated for solid wire? In fact, are they NEC compliant at all?
Yes
Or or maybe your lowering a ceiling fan by 4 foot with a longer stem but you need to extend the wires in the tube!
When I look at these I feel like they would be great for car stereo installation where your splicing a harness to a radio. Thoughts??
On their product page they mention speaker wiring as a potential application.
They're not rated for high-vibration environments, as the spring holding the wire in could bounce. But for a car stereo, I wouldn't worry. But I'd fold the power wire over the connector and throw a zip tie on it, shorting that one to ground can be nasty.
@@HenryLoenwind Yeah, the key would be to prevent the wires from twisting in the connector because they can pop out that way, just like in Wago's backstabs.
I'm curious, however: Is your intention to use these for splicing line level? Speaker level? Power?
@@Hermiel I ended up going a different route. I was thinking of using them to splice harness to new head unit