WOW! Make Your Own G10 Build Plate for Bambu Printers
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- File links:
Build plate CAD file: makerworld.com...
Spring clip hold-down file: makerworld.com...
Amazon links:
1.5 mm G10 sheet: amzn.to/41yXaXe
Instagram: / thomaslightle
Facebook: / redbarnwoodworking
Twitter: / tnlightle 
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This may sound silly but... why not simply use a square plate, and leave the front and rear tabs uncovered?
I just made my own G10 bed a couple weeks ago. To avoid using clamps, I glued the G10 to a PEI textured steel sheet using high temperature resistant epoxy you can get for $10. Set the G10 on something flat, add glue, add spring steel and lastly add weights on top. Worked like a charm! I bet you could cut some thin mild steel with your laser to match the contour of your bed and glue it. :)
Great suggestions!
I actually had a sheet of G10 I bought for a Voron that I ended up selling. Went to cut out the sheet for my X1Carbon and decided to do a search to see if others had already done this. Your video was a great help to confirm my thinking. As a heads up for anyone that might be trying this, cutting the G10 with a table saw is possible, but make sure you have a very high tooth blade as the G10 is so stiff that the edge likes to chip a little as you cut.
G10 has become my favorite build surface. Working for everything I've tried so far: PLA, PETG, ASA, ABS.
I love it. I want to get another one and try to print on the glossy, unsanded surface this time. I hear it can be challenging, but I want to give it a shot
@@SouthpawWorkshop It has not been a challenge for me at all. I do recommend TH3D Studio's bed adhesive. It's an excellent adhesive AND release agent. It's also very economical compared to other offerings.
Great to hear. Actually have a video coming down the pipe on how to make your own liquid adhesive for pennies. It is a simple and awesome recipe. I hope you check it out.
@@SouthpawWorkshop Definitely interested in a DIY solution, especially if it saves money!
Gonna be making one for my trident soon which should be easier than the bambulab and was thinking of buying a thin steel plate and connect them together for it to be magnetic
Definitely doable, and I plan on trying it out myself. Be sure to use this adhesive film instead of glue: amzn.to/48w3ctT
It was designed for attaching PEI sheets to build surfaces so it will work for your G10 surface.
That's a great idea to keep it nice and flat, thanks a lot!
@@rallegade Did you try it yet? I just removed the PEO and PET films + adhesive from a sacrificial buildplate to do this and it was NOT fun, the adhesive was very stubborn.
@@tokehgekko9455 have not done it yet no, but I've come across some plates already made being sold by some vendors
As you mentioned, that long slot at the back is put in the Bambu bed sheets to allow the small strip of bed materials to flex as the nozzle wipe action is executed in the pre-print process. Did the wipe work or did you end up removing it from the starting G-code?
The wipe appears to be working well. Just as with my textured sheet, it is wearing a small groove into the surface of the tab.
I gotta imagine I should be able to just cut it down and glue it to one of my existing engineering plates. Just a question of what glue would work. Two-part epoxy, maybe?
They make heat resistant double sided tape sheets for this specific purpose. You can find it on Amazon. I’m considering attaching mine to a spring sheet I got off of aliexpress using this method.
You are really good man. And: The leveling probe on bambu is inductive? I mean G10 is not metal. So how can magnetic probe work?
The leveling isn’t inductive. It is resistive. Basically it senses the increased load on the motors as the nozzle touches the build plate, and that is how it knows where the surface is. It allows you to run non-metallic build surfaces also.
Aaa ok, thx
What about the fumes. This material's not designed to withstand a temperature of 100. I wouldn't want to smell phenol vapors.
Nice job by explaining the G10, i love your video and the time you spend on it to test it out.
i do wonder what power the laser had that you was using. was it 10W ? 20W ? 30W ?
if you do not mind, can you try to figure out what kind of G10 you used ? there are lots of different kinds so lots of confusion :(
and before asking, no, not all G10 is the same.
if i can also give you some advice, add some protection to the wipe area as i am certain your nozzle is worn out after a few prints. ( took me 4 prints to wear out the nozzle .. G10 is extreme abrasive xD)
Keep up the good work :D
Thanks for sharing this - I'm going to fabricate one for my new X1C. Would you consider also sharing the files for the spring clips that you printed?
Thanks for reminding me. Here is the link that I also added to the video description: makerworld.com/en/models/175985#profileId-193504
Which printbed settings profile are you using in the slicer?
I’m using the smooth plate profile
Step 1 : Own a laser cutter
Wrong. Step 1: Own a Bambulab 3D printer
Nope, own a router. From what I have seen in this video a router works just fine. Besides a normal router I also have a Dremel router add-on with a copy ring which fits my Milwaukee rotary Tool. So the slots in the plate will let themselves be routed just fine I think.
👍
lol....