How to use an Impact Wrench to Safely Torque a Crankshaft Pulley Bolt
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- Опубликовано: 19 мар 2019
- Torqueing the Crankshaft bolt while keeping the engine from turning over can sometimes be a difficult task, I hope this little trick can be useful.
The Vehicle used in this demistration was a 2007 Chevy Aveo. 
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Used your method. 2k miles and so far so good. I check it with inspection mirror once in a while just to make my OCD happy. Thank you.
You're welcome
Being an Engineer with 30+ years of experience, I 100 % agree with this method. For years, it was thought that just torquing to spec was accurate....NOT SO. Problem was, when you torque a bolt, the friction under the head of the bolt can cause great variation on how much the bolt is actually stretched using the old method. The amount of stretch determines the actual stress in the bolt which determines when the bolt will yield. The ANGLE turned determines the length the bolt is actually stretched. Engineers will calculate the length of stretch needed to just yield the bolt correctly. THIS IS A VERY ACCURATE WAY TO STRETCH THE BOLT CORRECTLY!
Will this exact instructions work for a 430Nm tighten a 1HZ Harmonic Balancer bolt?
Your a good man. tkg the time n effort to show alternative ways. thank you
Thanks, I try
Thanks for your video I wasn't so precise but i marked down the harmonic balancer like you did but i didnt do all the math but i had okay results no issues yet
Very good my man.
Thanks
Can you reuse, crankshaft, pulley bolts? Everywhere online is saying not to do so, however, Honda dealers cannot get me the bolt in time.
In all honesty they probably say that about every bolt. With that said, I've always reused them. Maybe perhaps honda is using a soft bolt, that part I'm not sure. I don't really want to tell you the wrong thing, I guess, just use your best judgment. Either way, good luck.
I torqued my crankshaft bolt to the repair manual specified 135 ft. pounds on my Dodge 5.2 liter last week and it took me hours to rig up a way to keep the crank from turning. (Had to rig up 2 ratchet straps in various locations) Since I have to now remove the crank bolt once again to make another repair, (stupid error) and I know it is at the correct torque right now, can I just make a witness mark on the bolt and balancer and use my cordless impact wrench to install the bolt so that it lines up just as it was? Thank you.
Just FYI for people...60 degrees (Accord V6) is a SHITLOAD of torque needed to achieve without an impact. I had my 250 ft-lb wrench clicking and it wasn't at 60 degrees. At some point it's ridiculous to need a cheater pipe on a breaker bar to achive their torque vs. using the same impact you used to get it off.
I agree, thanks for the information.
430Nm tighten 1HZ Harmonic Balancer bolt, will this same instructions work for that?
why not just use a torque wrench?
only asking because my g37 needs a special tool to hold the flywheel while torquing down the crank bolt. I'm guessing it will spin if you do it by hand? but the quick impacts of the impact wrench are able to turn it?
It's not always that easy to keep the motor from spinning. I guess you could use a tool to hold the flywheel, this just seems easier. This is my opinion, just giving an option for some people to use.
Thanks for your reply, I'll be sure to keep that in mind for next time.
3:21
I just did the lower timing cover on my Audi. Removing the crank bolt with the "special tool" was near impossible so i used an impact. Installing it with a torque wrench was also almost impossible. Guess what the professionals do ? They use an impact to remove AND install the crank bolts. My buddy is a VW tech and said NONE OF THEM torque to spec or use the crank holding tool. It's air impact all the way......
I agree that most mechanics will just buz them on and off with an impact gun. Although the piece of mind and satisfaction of getting it really close helps one sleep better at night. To tight and you risk stripping out the crank threads, and too loose could cause it to fall off.
For the little time that it takes, I'd rather try and get it as close as I can. That's just my two cents. 😁
I have done the same but I am bit worried if it was proper way to do that?!
I've done it this way many times and never had a problem yet. Good luck,
I was thinking of doing something like this myself. Why don't you just mark the bolt against the housing before removing it?
I probable could have done that first, although I felt that by marking it the way I did would get me close to manufactoring specifications. I guess it wouldn't be a bad idea to have marked it first perhaps with a different color marker. Thanks for your advice and also for watching my video.
@@marksplace I was asking because I don't know if this procedure will work. The thing I don't know is if the bolt will begin to thread at exactly the same location every time, and so end up at the same place every time when tightened by hand.
@@yasharenner6681 I believe it should thread at the same location. I would have marked it the way you suggested too just as a reference. Mark did an excellent job nevertheless.🙂
Thanks Bella, much appreciated. :)
This is improper, degrees does not convert to foot lbs which is linear force. One would need a torque angle meter (utilized in engine rebuilding) and or do the proper math of 360 degree circle of the bolt head divided by the 6 points. Nice try but proper math always prevails.
It's called "torque to yield". Not sure how the use of a protractor would make it incorrect. That is unless you didn't watch the same video that I created, or you're trying way to hard to complicate a somewhat simple task of using angles -- an angle is an angle no matter how you slice it.
The idea of the video is so one can torque/degree a bolt without worrying about the engine from turning while doing so.
Thanks for watching, that is if you did. :)
@@marksplace There are three types of procedures used for torquing: torque to yield/angle to turn; torque to maximum stretch yield; and torque to a specific torque number and hope it's correct. A crankshaft bolt is NOT a stretch bolt as in a head cylinder bolt (which should be replaced upon reassembly not a good engineering design-stretch bolts yet this is where a torque to yield/angle would apply). Unless your using a Torque Angle meter then this would be most likely off 15-30 foot lbs or more. 1 degree of angle does not translate into 1 foot lb. Show me the mathematical formula otherwise having a decent calibrated torque impact wrench (which could have a deviation of 5%-10%) would be the best practice and easiest. Then again were just scientists using facts.
As per GM the crank pulley bolt is first torqued to 70 ft lbs (I used a torque wrench) then 30 degrees, then 15 degrees. Is it the best way, no it isn't. Does it put you really close, sure, why not. Considering most people just buzz them on with an impact gun and call it a day. In my defense I have since the upload of the video purchased a good digital torque wrench that also does angles. Even then one would need to keep the motor from turning, thus throwing off any tool used. The way I did it in the video I had no worries in the world if the motor had turned on me or not - - it wouldn't matter because the Pulley is keyed to the crank.
Thanks for your input, it's all good and I appreciate it.
@@marksplace You are mostly correct by doing this like I and my daughter have been using.
Many shops (mechanics), just run the impact gun and call it for the day, w/o checking Ft. Lbs.
ATG & many experts say this is good enough.
what a crock
If you have a better way than please share, otherwise thanks for watching.
@@marksplace indeed, that is basically "torque to yield". Good job.
Thanks
Blue loctite and a couple hits with a big impact, never had one fail in 30 years.
Lmao... All this work when you can just go to the store and buy a freaking torque wrench..
A torque wrench wouldn't keep the engine from rotating . Thanks for watching.
A cheap belt wrench or tiedown strap holds it still
I'll have to try that next time, thanks. I'm always willing to learn new ways of doing things.
@@craigd123 I'd use zip ties and call it good. I use a couple of them to make sure there's safety redundancy.
Guys, he's showing the alternative way of doing thing for the home gamers who don't have all the tools like a mechanic so cut him some slacks, at least he's taking his time to make and post a vid.