Been using the Cerazorb for 3 or4 years now, works great. I’ve gone to cork as a replacement since Cera has doubled in price. I also use a horse feed rubber bucket for thinset. Still on the same bucket for over 5 years. Thinset just hammers out in the am smacking it on the sides after it drys. Or just step on the bucket.
Left a comment on the last video with Sal but for some reason it got deleted. Don’t remember saying anything bad, I never do. I’ll try to repeat it here since it could be useful to you or anyone else. Recently I got a 7gal bucket to be able to mix the whole bag of dry mix (thin-set, cement, fast-set, leveler etc) without ANY spillover. It is quite pricey $37 on Amazon but worth every penny. Also Sal mentioned WhaleTale as a device to suck all the cement dust away while mixing. WhatleTale works great but also quick custom cut $2 bucket lid will do the same trick. Just cut it in half and drill fitting hole the size of the vacuum hose you got. Works like a charm. The other half will leave plenty of space to visually monitor the mix (wet or dry) and for drill and auger mixer to operate flawlessly while extracting all the dust. Great vid BRT. 👍💪👊
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Who knows man. AI is taking over. LOL YT sometimes does funky business. They dont allow links as far as I understand so if you are interested in that bucket type: Hudson Exchange Premium 7 Gallon Bucket, HDPE, Black. It took me a while to find it. Also Sal mentioned that his is Rubi brand so check that out as well. Maybe its even cheaper. 👍
Thank you for this video! We're aiming to do something nearly identical but I've found very little info doing it just like this- foam insulation under just the bathroom footprint, and pouring the concrete short to allow for heat and tile. Cheers!
If you could isolate that insulated slab, would there be advantages to embedding the heating cables in the slab? Then tile directly onto the slab. The risk would be that the slab would crack and therefore the tiles would crack.
Can the floor heating system be used under an acrylic shower base? Is it effective or a waste of time? Do I need to use one heating system for the shower area and a second one for the rest of the bathroom floor?
So no, that would be considered a fixture encapsulating the floor. I really don’t think it would heat all that well anyways. And they do recommend a separate cable for a shower. Which I obviously did not do here 😃
Is there a reason why you installed the heated floor under the leveler versus pouring the leveler and then installing the heated floor under tile? Is there any benefit from doing it one way or the other? I just poured leveler to my bathroom and going to use schluter ditra heat duo and then tile it.
That is a more efficient way of doing it. More expensive too. My main goal was to get heat throughout entire bathroom including shower and not raising height above outside floor. Many ways to go about this 👍
@Bathroom Remodeling Teacher more expensive is definitely correct. Hoping this is the only time I'll have to do a renovation. Thank you for the quick reply.
Don't apply the wire near it...the wire should only be up to where your toilet is finishing on the front...nothing on the sides depending on your bathroom layout...only put the wire where you're feet are going to be.
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher In NJ, ''most'' (electrical) companies install switch boxes at 48-50 to the Top of the box. I've always done them 48 top, kitchens and bathrooms 46''. Also makes it ADA compliant
Are you calling for an inspection? What state are you in? It will not pass if you are not a minimum 3" away from walls or structures, 15" away from the wall under the vanity even if it is a floating one. 6"-8" inches away from the toilet flange, and heat wire cannot be closer than 2 inches apart.
Article 110.3(B) - Installation and Use. Equipment that is listed, labeled, or both shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling. He's good 👌
@Kevin Hornbuckle I was just wondering if the system he is using is different. I have been using the brand suntouch for over 15 yrs, those are the installation instructions for that brand. 3 in away from the wall by the time you do drywall and baseboard will be less than 2 in, even if it doesn't get warm, nobody walks on the edges. Heat it floors are not like light bulbs immediately will get warm. You need to run the system 5- 10 minutes before you use it depending on what'sthe distance u set the heat wire (2, 2 1/2, 3, or 3.5 in apart). The control has a timer ( set a schedule), and new controls are wifi available if you need to turn it on out of your routine.
Enroll in course 🔥🤩👍 bathroomremodeling.teachable.com/p/diy-bathroom-geek
Been using the Cerazorb for 3 or4 years now, works great. I’ve gone to cork as a replacement since Cera has doubled in price. I also use a horse feed rubber bucket for thinset. Still on the same bucket for over 5 years. Thinset just hammers out in the am smacking it on the sides after it drys. Or just step on the bucket.
Left a comment on the last video with Sal but for some reason it got deleted. Don’t remember saying anything bad, I never do. I’ll try to repeat it here since it could be useful to you or anyone else. Recently I got a 7gal bucket to be able to mix the whole bag of dry mix (thin-set, cement, fast-set, leveler etc) without ANY spillover. It is quite pricey $37 on Amazon but worth every penny. Also Sal mentioned WhaleTale as a device to suck all the cement dust away while mixing. WhatleTale works great but also quick custom cut $2 bucket lid will do the same trick. Just cut it in half and drill fitting hole the size of the vacuum hose you got. Works like a charm. The other half will leave plenty of space to visually monitor the mix (wet or dry) and for drill and auger mixer to operate flawlessly while extracting all the dust. Great vid BRT. 👍💪👊
I wouldn’t have deleted a comment from you…never saw it?
Great tip 👍 didn’t know about the 7 gallons
Could of been a comment on live chat maybe? Had a hard time seeing those during livestreams
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher Who knows man. AI is taking over. LOL YT sometimes does funky business. They dont allow links as far as I understand so if you are interested in that bucket type: Hudson Exchange Premium 7 Gallon Bucket, HDPE, Black. It took me a while to find it. Also Sal mentioned that his is Rubi brand so check that out as well. Maybe its even cheaper. 👍
Thank you for this video! We're aiming to do something nearly identical but I've found very little info doing it just like this- foam insulation under just the bathroom footprint, and pouring the concrete short to allow for heat and tile. Cheers!
You bet 👍 good luck 🍀 it’ll be a great addition to the home
Thanks
Great Video, appreciate the details!
Maybe that's what I need for my sore feet, other than the small throw rug that I stand on now.
If you could isolate that insulated slab, would there be advantages to embedding the heating cables in the slab? Then tile directly onto the slab. The risk would be that the slab would crack and therefore the tiles would crack.
How much would this cost to do the whole basement though
This is sooo much physical work. Your back must be killing you at the end of the day.
Can the floor heating system be used under an acrylic shower base? Is it effective or a waste of time? Do I need to use one heating system for the shower area and a second one for the rest of the bathroom floor?
So no, that would be considered a fixture encapsulating the floor.
I really don’t think it would heat all that well anyways. And they do recommend a separate cable for a shower. Which I obviously did not do here 😃
How long did you let the concrete cure for before you used self leveler?
About a week, but that was a scheduling thing. Next day would have been fine
Is there a reason why you installed the heated floor under the leveler versus pouring the leveler and then installing the heated floor under tile? Is there any benefit from doing it one way or the other? I just poured leveler to my bathroom and going to use schluter ditra heat duo and then tile it.
That is a more efficient way of doing it. More expensive too. My main goal was to get heat throughout entire bathroom including shower and not raising height above outside floor. Many ways to go about this 👍
@Bathroom Remodeling Teacher more expensive is definitely correct. Hoping this is the only time I'll have to do a renovation. Thank you for the quick reply.
Man and i worry about my space heater melting my wax flange lolll. Idk if you say how warm it gets i havent gotten far
Don't apply the wire near it...the wire should only be up to where your toilet is finishing on the front...nothing on the sides depending on your bathroom layout...only put the wire where you're feet are going to be.
Putting your switch boxes pretty high
Lots a critics on this one 😆 50-52” normal around here
@@BathroomRemodelingTeacher In NJ, ''most'' (electrical) companies install switch boxes at 48-50 to the Top of the box.
I've always done them 48 top, kitchens and bathrooms 46''. Also makes it ADA compliant
no mask when mixing thinset -5 points 🤣
@@marcopoulin1897 its a joke for his tiktok- chill haha
Are you calling for an inspection? What state are you in? It will not pass if you are not a minimum 3" away from walls or structures, 15" away from the wall under the vanity even if it is a floating one. 6"-8" inches away from the toilet flange, and heat wire cannot be closer than 2 inches apart.
Whatever, I followed manufacturers specs
If it doesn’t work for where you live, then don’t do it this way. Thanks Jesus
3" away from walls will leave cold zones along the wall.
After all he been through, Jebus don’t need his left foot getting cold while he takes a piss in that bathroom.
Article 110.3(B) - Installation and Use. Equipment that is listed, labeled, or both shall be installed and used in accordance with any instructions included in the listing or labeling.
He's good 👌
@Kevin Hornbuckle I was just wondering if the system he is using is different. I have been using the brand suntouch for over 15 yrs, those are the installation instructions for that brand. 3 in away from the wall by the time you do drywall and baseboard will be less than 2 in, even if it doesn't get warm, nobody walks on the edges. Heat it floors are not like light bulbs immediately will get warm. You need to run the system 5- 10 minutes before you use it depending on what'sthe distance u set the heat wire (2, 2 1/2, 3, or 3.5 in apart). The control has a timer ( set a schedule), and new controls are wifi available if you need to turn it on out of your routine.
Self leveler should be done prior to the heat mat...I do not agree with the assembly of this bathroom at all...be careful if your following this
Another vague explanation, Tony Assembly is a bit off I agree. I did not frame main wall for filming purposes. Obviously that would be framed normally