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Supworlds Faction that’s awesome to hear and exactly the feeling I had when I made the switch to AMSOIL so many years ago. Thanks for your trust and patronage my good man and enjoy the heck out of that Preferred Customer membership!
I've been Bypass Filtering my Amsoil oil changes every month now for the past 4 months. I built a bench filtration system because I use the same oil in all three of my vehicles. This way I only need to purchase one filter instead of one for each car. When you have a Fumoto valve in place of your standard oil drain plug it makes this filtration process so easy. I drain the oil into a dedicated polycarbonate 2.5 gallon jug, filter the oil on the bench and reintroduce it back into the vehicle all in the span of 15 minutes. It works so well I think I'm going to do the same for my differential and transmission oils. I'll get a dedicated filter for each oil type since their are different oils along with their own polycarbonate jugs. I'll perform these bypass filtrations once per year. It won't be as easy because there won't be a Fumoto valve but I'll devise an easy and clean way of capturing the oil.
Man, that’s so cool! You amaze me with your ingenuity putting that all together and making it reality. Thanks for keeping us updated and will be curious how your transmission and gear oil filter processing comes together as well. Stay safe and well!
I’ve heard good things about Castrol Magnitec and Penzoil Platinum too. I just wanted to add that, if you go to a dealer for a full synthetic oil change, you’ll be paying $85 to $100. Do it yourself for about $50.
That’s how I see it and figure those savings add up over the years, too!…not to mention it’s not easy finding mechanics/technicians that you can feel really care as much as you do about your own vehicles.
Thanks for watching and leaving a nice comment! Always great to hear from fellow independent AMSOIL dealers and others who have found the quality of AMSOIL products , too. I wish you all the best and hope you find growing success as an independent AMSOIL dealer...stay in touch!
@marclln It's like everything in life, you only get out of it relative to the effort you put into it. In my case, not much :-). I became an independent AMSOIL dealer to obtain products at dealer pricing for my own usage due to having a number of personal vehicles spread across my family. As my kids' friends began seeing the convenience and cost-savings of AMSOIL, I began selling to them as well. Then I started selling to a number of mine and my wife's coworkers. As my kids leave the house, I hope to get more time and actually put some effort into my AMSOIL business. I've seen some opportunities I'd like to pursue and plan to ramp it up. This video was a start to that process. Let me know if I can answer any other questions and if you're interested and click the links in the description to learn more directly from AMSOIL's website regarding their Preferred Customer program. If you do end up buying anything or signing up, I'll get credit which may lead to me getting a small commission. Keep in touch!
You need to pull the dip stick and clean it off before replacing the drain plug and replacing the motor oil. This is to prevent any dirty oil from mixing with the new fresh oil. Good Job!
Starting the engine with an empty oil filter can lead to some engine wear that is easily avoided by pre-loading the oil system. To pre-load the oil system, press the accelerator pedal down to the floor and crank the engine...it will not fire but the oil pump will function. Repeat this in two 30-second cycles until the low oil light goes off. Then it is safe to start the engine.
Wow, what a great tip! Thanks for sharing that with us. I will definitely try that next time and add that to the oil change process. Thank you for watching and sharing your knowledge!!
@@WorksIRL The old Subarus from the 1990s-2007 had an oil filter mounted from below so you could easily fill the new oil filter with new oil. Mr Subaru youtube talks about preloading the newer subarus on his youtube channel.
I was thinking of MrSubaru1387 when you first commented to go see if he mentions that in any of his videos. Good to know he does...I'll check it out, too! Thanks again for sharing this important tip!
I tried that and it cranks and seems like the motor shakes a bit from not actually starting...is that normal? are you really supposed to hold that for 2 30 second cycles? seems hard on the starter and battery.
Thank YOU for taking time to leave me your nice comment and good on you for looking into changing your own oil or at least learn what's involved so you can decide if it's something you want to do yourself or pay someone to do it for you...still good to know what's involved to be sure it's done right.
Thank you so much for your help though this video. It really helped me completely to know what to do to change the engine oil on my 2021 Subaru Forester. Thank you so much againz
I’m delighted to hear that and good on you for changing your own oil! Thanks for watching and taking time to share your kind remarks…I truly appreciate you! Have a happy holiday!
Always good to hear from other AMSOIL fans. I, too, love the Signature Series. I switched to using the XL mainly because I just don’t put as many miles on in a year. Also, the only AMSOIL oil filter available for my Subaru Forester is their 15k model, not the 25k model, though, I could easily change just the filter on the Forester since it’s so easily accessible and already upside down so wouldn’t likely be holding much, if any, oil in it. The XL price is also a bit less so seems to match up perfectly with annual oil change interval with the 15k AMSOIL oil filter. Thanks for watching and commenting how you love AMSOIL 👍.
Another tip coming your way. I use RhinoGear ramps to put my front end on. Great $50 investment. Makes it easy to get under the vehicle and access everything. Quick on and off process. My driveway has a slight grade so when I use the ramps my vehicles are actually level but I wouldn’t hesitate to use them on level ground for this purpose.
Good to hear, again from someone with good credentials like you as I’ve had some slight hesitation on whether the sloping backward might leave a small amount of old oil in a pocket rear of the oil drain hole...just me speculating on that. There’s an American-made brand called Race Ramps (??) as I try to buy as much American-made even when more money but their pricing is a bit more of an investment and frankly those Rhinos look a little nicer to me. I may need to get those as my CIVID-19lbs weight gain working at home has expanded beyond that to more like COVID-35 🤣. Making a tighter squeeze on the next change for sure.
@@WorksIRL well, I’m certainly not touting my credentials BUT I do subscribe to a rational thought process. Here’s what I’m doing now. I will change my signature series and oil and Amsoil filter every 10k miles, 15k miles sooner than recommended My outback takes 5.1 quarts. IF, and that’s a big if, a 1/4 quart remains in the engine, that means I’ve replaced 95% of the oil which was replaced at 40% of its life. That means I will perform two oil changes before the recommended interval recommendation. I call that a TOUCHDOWN!
That’s good idea...I have considered installing one of those. I’m a bit old-fashioned and talked myself out of it thinking I hate trusting expensive engine to a tiny little valve or have it get an impact on our terrible Michigan roads which also are covered in salt chunks in Winter. Yes, it’s up behind that plastic shield but I figured with AMSOIL only having to change once a year it’s not as big a deal removing the plug and replacing washer so infrequently. I still may consider adding and will definitely video it...thanks for sharing idea!
@@WorksIRL lol, if you have a risk of knocking that valve you will have larger problems to deal with. They have one version that drains the oil straight out and is fairly low profile. The one time installation helps with the following too... No dropping the plug into the pan and having to fumble around for it No cross threading chance on the continued Re-installs of the plug No crush washer to change or reuse at risk The valve makes QUICK work with the change. It helps reduce the mess that’s made. One of the BEST things I’ve ever done actually which is why I’m sharing. All my vehicles get them at the first change. I’d even argue it makes as much sense for those who bring it into the shop for oil changes. One of the main reasons I change my own oil is because I’ve heard too many stories of plugs leaking, cross threaded, shroud not being put back on or even some shroud screws missing. This one change, the Fumoto valve, may just be the thing that would make many to reconsider doing their own oil changes. The main reasons for me to do my own is I want the BEST oil, the BEST filter and I want to know everything is done right. I’m positive there are many vehicles everyday that get less the good treatment and I’m not going to let myself be one of them. And one more thing I’ll admit.... I feel AWESOME for a week when I change my oil. Don’t exactly know why that is but it’s a natural high and I’m man enough to admit it, lol.
@@thepokerpilotapp you’ve convinced me! 🤣. If it passes your muster that’s good enough for me! Also, all the points you make are compelling. Sure would like to avoid that handful of used oil each time I try to pull away the plug when draining. I also know that feeling of satisfaction after changing vehicle oil. Nice fresh oil flushing through the engine passages and pistons wiping through fresh, slick AMSOIL goodness 🤣. I’ll start looking at those Fumoto valves for my next change on my wife’s Subaru.
@@WorksIRL I put the fumoto valves on my cars too. They are very good and I haven't had any problem with them getting damaged or leaking and I live in N.H. so we get plenty of harsh weather with snow, salt, etc. You also have a vehicle that has the filter in the hood. So if you put the fumoto valve on and then attach a hose to it when you drain the oil, you will not have a drop of oil spilled!
@@chrisryan8863 That’s awesome to hear so now you guys have me convinced that’s the way to go! I’ll have to order up one of those. Hearing your harsh N.H. Winter conditions and it’s not been a problem is comforting. Sure will be nice saving my skin from absorbing that fistful of old oil 🤣!
Have u done a transmission fuild on your Crosstrek or Forester. I have a 2021 Crosstrek and I got 20000 miles on it now so soon I'll need to do one. If u do one could u make a video that would be great
I’ve not changed the CVT fluid on my Forester, yet. I’ll certainly do a video of it as it is coming up due soon. Thanks for the suggestion and I appreciate you watching and reaching out!
Good job. I have question? I also have a 2012 Forester. I change my oil and twice the oil light went on very faint pull over to level ground but the level was fine. I always check the level. Did you every hear of this with the Forester. Thanks
I haven’t experienced that issue or know anything about it. My speculation would start with maybe the oil pump is starting to fail or simply the oil level “sender”/sensor, wiring short or wiring harness connection issue. I vaguely remember some years of Subaru engines had oil pickup tube with shoddy welds causing them to break off and not able to suck sufficient oil volume to keep the engine properly lubricated…that might be pretty urgent to checkout before causing irreversible engine damage. There might be a clogged oil pick up screen on that tube, too. I’d have thought those would illuminate oil pressure light, not oil level light, though. The other “easy” fix might be a battery starting to go and causing random electrical issues. Thanks for watching and please keep us posted when you find out what the issue was causing your oil low light to dimly light a couple times.
Hello. I am new to your channel. I often use Amsoil too (and if not, Pennzoil ultra platinum). I am curious how long it is before your maintenance indicator light goes back on after you change your oil? You mentioned you wait 1 year but I imagine the light must go on before that, yes?
Hello Chris, that’s a good question! I have had to reset the oil life reminder on my Subaru Forester and my 2015 Jeep Wrangler without changing the oil before. If my memory serves me, I think I found my Subaru let me set the reminder date and mileage so now it’s actually synchronized with my 12k/1year schedule. My Wrangler seems to actually time-out pretty close to once per year changes since it doesn’t rack up as many miles but it must calculate the short trips in cold Winter and humid Summer as possible high-wear conditions. Thanks for watching and I hope you’ll consider sticking around!
Do you know what the difference is between the 15k filter and the ones for 25k miles? What is the construction difference between the two? What features allow for the additional 10k miles? What explains the two versions and what is the price difference between the two? Inquiring minds would like to know. Thanks!
Sorry, my RUclips Studio mobile alert didn't show your comment and I didn't see it until logging via desktop. I did some research and reviewed dealer forum discussions and oddly, I couldn't find material differences actually referenced distinguishing the AMSOIL Ea15K and the EaO oil filters. This is strictly my speculation but it maybe the "application" in which the oil filter will be used determines the Ea15K vs EaO model designation. Again, as an Independent AMSOIL Dealer, I'm not speaking for AMSOIL nor have any specific information to make that speculation. It's simply my conjecture that certain engines may tolerate longer-duration oil filter changes as long as certain oil filtration characteristics are utilized. My memory isn't what it was but I could swear my own vehicles used to have an EaO and Ea15K option but I'm not seeing in the AMSOIL lookup...again, my mind may be making that up. Regarding price differences between the two seems to be a couple bucks. I'm sorry I'm not giving you a clearer answer because it's a really good question. You might consider writing the editor of the AMSOIL Preferred Customer magazine you get to see if they'd post that in the reader's question and answer section. I may submit it to the AMSOIL Dealer magazine along with a couple other questions I've got to see if they publish a response.
@@WorksIRL thanks for the reply. As you likely know, as of today, I’ve decided to go much deeper and go for the bypass filter to REALLY get a handle on particulate size.
I think I have an improvement to my original idea- to install a oil bypass system into my Tacoma. Well, because I have a 2021 model and it has filter cartridge instead of the normal canister filter I would also need to purchase an adapter that would cost $230. That would make the entire system cost just over $500. So, I have an idea. I have 3 vehicles and what I do with one I should do with all. I could purchase the bypass filter, an electric pump, some tubing and fittings all for about $400 and build a remote system to install in my shed. So, my process will be to drain my oil directly into a clean container using my Fumoto valve, cycle it through the pump and bypass filters overnight, and reintroduce the filtered oil back into my vehicle. I suspect I'll do this every 3 months, so 4X per year, and I'll be able to service all of my vehicles with just this one system. This approach accomplishes what I want for a lot less dollars and provides me capacity to do all of my kids vehicles too- even my neighbors if they'd like.
Wow, that's really inventive idea! You might be able to patent and market that :-). I have read articles about why not to go to quick oil change places or low-buck oil change shops as the articles discuss some of those operations use recycled/filtered oil that's then supplied en masse back to the shops to keep costs lower. I'm not sure if that's true but if it is and it's good enough to use commercially then your system is much better as it's your own personal filtration service. Not sure if you'd need to be concerned with mixing minute amounts of different oil viscosities as the system would have small residue from each filtration batch and in the filter(s). If you create this, you might consider making your own RUclips channel to document your construction, use and results over time. I suspect you'd have a fair number of followers to see how it turns out. Keep us posted!
@@WorksIRL just completed my first round of bypass filtrations using amsoils 2 micron filter. The entire process was extremely easy and quick. The fumoto valve shines in this application. My plan now is to filter my vehicles every month. That’s how easy it is. I have less than $150 invested in this bypass system that supports all my vehicles because they all use the same oil.
@@thepokerpilotapp wow, that’s really impressive you put together such a filtration system...very cool indeed! I can appreciate how the Fumoto valve shines for ease and cleanliness of frequent draining. I’ve never performed oil analysis and as we discussed earlier the expense of it could be better applied to cost of oil and filters. I’ve read how fleet operators use it to help determine oil life when dealing with cost of maintaining many vehicles. I wonder if it would provide you any insights into how the oil chemistry holds in regard to oxidation and other oil-life chemical measurements. You’ve built something very interesting and I appreciate you keeping us posted on your endeavors.
@@WorksIRL yep. I will get an oil analysis on the vehicle at the one year mark. To reiterate, I use signature series 0w-20 and will replace both the oil and filter at 12 months. The oil will have only about 12,000 miles on it. I’m curious if there’s a way of evaluating how the monthly 2 micron filtration will have on the oil. When we perform continuous oil analysis on our government aircraft we also evaluate particulate size and count per milliliter of volume. I’m not sure I’ve seen this kind of data on the reports. As a frame of reference the lowest particulate size we evaluate for aircraft is between 5 and 15 microns. If this Amsoil bypass filter can remove particulate down to 2 microns I’d be ecstatic but without a test that reports those numbers it will leave me to either blindly accept their assertions or always be suspicious of their claims. The bypass Filter has a restricter port on the outlet side of the filter and I removed that. It shouldn’t have any impact on the filters ability to pull out 2+ micron size contaminant. I was actually surprised to find the restricter port there thinking it was the denser filter media that was slowing the flow down but apparently not. Being the filtration is being done offline and on a bench the need to control flow shouldn’t matter.
My 2019 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 requires an oil change every 5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first. As long as the vehicle is under the manufacturers' warranty, I have to adhere to Nissan oil drain intervals...
I understand and that’s prudent. AMSOIL OE and XL are still good options even adhering to manufacture guidelines given their relatively reasonable pricing and quality. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I’ve got a question. If I drove 15k miles per year can I change the oil at 6 months but maintain the filter which would be changed at the 12 month interval? This is the regular setup not the bypass. Ive heard and read that the filter should be changed as well but I’m struggling to understand the why.
What I've read agrees with what you're finding which is changing the oil filter at each oil change. I have a Jeep Wrangler that uses a cartridge-type oil filter and I've speculated with doing the opposite of what you're saying if I were putting many miles on it every year. In other words, changing the oil filter every 15k but only changing the oil every 25k/year mainly because it seems the cartridge filter on the Wrangler appear could be changed without impacting any loss of oil like my older Wranglers. I think the weak link in the duo of oil and filter is the filter when it comes to using AMSOIL. I think they've formulated the oil to handle the long-mileage/one-year but I suspect the oil filter has the potential of getting clogged depending on engine condition/age/etc. Again, just my speculation.
I’m hot on pursuing the Dual Remote Bypass system and would like your input and I’d like to do all my business through you. I’ll share my entire thought process with you but you know me well enough by now- I take the conservative path. The way I’m evaluating this has a payback period of just under 5 years and the plan would be to change both filters once per year and the oil every 2 years. The mileage for the 2 year period won’t exceed 25k miles. This will allow me to filter my oil at 2 microns!!! Pretty cool I think. What’s your preferred method of contact? Thanks! Michael Quibble
Funny, when I was researching your oil filter question, I saw AMSOIL's by-pass filtration system and thought of you. Regarding buying through me, I truly appreciate your consideration. I'm confident AMSOIL automatically assigned you to a dealer when you originally signed up as a Preferred Customer. I wouldn't want to step into their zone and I'm perfectly happy knowing we're all helping you get the AMSOIL product that best meets your needs. Regarding the AMSOIL bypass filtration systems, if you haven't already done this, you might first consider doing the AMSOIL Oil Analysis first. Maybe take some oil samples periodically to see if it indicates how your oil is holding up before investing in the cost of the bypass system. Here's a link to the AMSOIL Oil Analysis options: www.amsoil.com/c/oil-analysis/102/?zo=5085611 I do like communicating this way if it's acceptable to you. Our discussion may help others looking for similar answers/discussions. My email is on my channel's About tab, too.
@@WorksIRL welllllllllll, the vehicle in question is a 2021 Toyota Tacoma Pro with 800 miles, lol. Oil analysis is likely not required. At 59 I’m looking to keep this vehicle a long time and want to take the preventative measures now that will pay dividends years down the road.
Oh I get what you're saying and think it's wise, especially with a Toyota known to last forever with even modest maintenance. I was thinking the oil analysis might show the remaining life on the oil itself to give you an idea of how it's holding up. Granted, the cost of the oil analysis is almost half the cost of an oil change. I'm thinking of doing a video on using the oil analysis for a Jeep Liberty in which I had used the AMSOIL Signature Series oil but have let the oil sit in it for years. I'm curious how it's held up and if the oil analysis can indicate any details on the oil quality itself in terms of "life-left".
@@WorksIRL I’m having difficulty following the rationale of the oil test when using it to determine WHEN to change the oil. If I send a sample in and they tell me I have xx life remaining I’m assuming you don’t do it again before replacing the oil. If you did it would have been the same approximate cost as if you had changed it earlier WITHOUT the benefit of cleaner oil resulting from a change. My approach, which may be a minority position, is to use Amsoil and all of its filtration to reduce particulate in my oil so I reduce wear, extend engine life or reduce future maintenance cost. I’d rather change my oil 5,000 miles earlier than necessary than pay $30 to help squeeze out those 5,000 or so miles- but I’m either OCD, anal or both about my oil. I guess the aviation in me has contaminated my viewpoint on oil analysis to the point of not wanting any particulates in my oil when it is preventable/ manageable. Taking this extreme approach to change the oil and filters more often than what’s recommended will cost me, on average, a whopping $50 more a year. For that kind of money I’d argue you can’t spend $50 on anything that will help your vehicle like this will.
@@thepokerpilotapp I think your rationale makes perfect sense. I’ve personally been curious on the time vs. miles oil life measuring scale. I generally don’t put nearly as many miles as the average and wonder if the oil analysis would present enough data to show the oil quality is still good enough even after going longer durations of time. I thought similarly in the other direction of even after higher miles the analysis might show it’s clean enough to continue without changing. In other words, actually provide some metrics and feedback on the oil itself of how a period of conditions (high miles or longer duration) affects it. I admit the cost of analysis seems better applied to just resetting the oil by changing it. In my case with my Liberty, it’s utterly money spent on curiosity to see if Signature Series held up neglected through multiple seasons with low miles or does its chemistry actually reflect it degrading and breaking down just mostly sitting unused in the engine. In the end, seeing if time vs. miles or if the analysis sheds any extra peace of mind that it withstands even sitting long times without losing its protection properties or proving time is just as detrimental.
Drained the transmission fluid instead of the engine oil…… Subaru said it is very easy to confuse the two…..Don’t know if they were being generous and supportive, but it made me feel better.
@@kateryder530 oh shoot! I’m so sorry to hear that but also glad you figured out the issue. Now be careful if you’ve added engine oil since you’ll have twice the engine oil in it since you never drained the old engine oil! You’ll still need to drain the engine oil using the engine oil drain plug this time. I have read of others doing what you did as well so I know you’re not alone. Well, on the positive you’ve changed your transmission fluid 😎. Also, be sure you add the proper amount and type of transmission fluid. I’ve not done that on a Subaru so I can’t offer any details on that process. Please keep us posted and good luck!
I used AMSOIL's engine flush one time on my 16-year old Jeep Liberty with 130k miles because the oil hadn't been changed for years and the vehicle had been sitting mostly un-driven for a few years. In my opinion, that's the type of situation where using an engine flush product may help to try diluting and emulsifying any heavy sludge to hopefully flush out or splash onto oxidized internal components in hopes they get a good dose of detergents to help clean off. However, I don't think engine flushing is something I'd routinely perform on the engines in my vehicles, especially newer engines in late-model vehicles where the oil is routinely getting changed at or more frequently than manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedules with high-quality motor oil that meets or exceeds manufacturer specifications. Even after using the flush on my Liberty, I'll likely change the oil sooner than normal just to be sure any residual engine flush solution and resulting dislodged or diluted material is more thoroughly removed from within the engine. Of course, free will and your right to do as you think is best for your personal property is all that matters. Let us know what you decide to do and what your opinion is on the topic. 👍
You're right, the Subaru Forester User Manual states they recommend always using "SUBARU approved engine oil." The User Manual also states if SUBARU approved oil is unavailable, it lists alternative oil can be used as long as it is SAE viscosity 0W-20 synthetic with an oil grade American Petroleum Institute (API) classification SN with the words "RESOURCE CONSERVING". AMSOIL XL is licensed with the current API SERVICE SP RESOURCE CONSERVING oil grade rating which is downward compatible with oil grades SN Plus and SN. I've come to trust AMSOIL's products for over a decade in all my vehicles. Thanks for watching and commenting!
I’m about to use Amsoil for the first time despite having listened it is too expensive. Here’s what I’ve calculated for my 2021 Tacoma Pro. It takes 6.2 quarts. If I use the cheapest synthetic and filter it will cost me 31.41 per change. If I do this every 3k miles it will cost me $1,046 over 100k miles. If I use the Signature Series AND the Amsoil filter it will cost me $77.92 per change. If I do this every 5,000 miles it will cost me $1,558 over 100k miles- ONLY $513 more. If I drive 10k miles a year the Amsoil will cost me $51 more per year. I think I can handle $51 more a year EVEN IF Amsoil isn’t any better. If it is- the $51 extra each year is a bargain because it likely has saved me more than the extra $513 over the 10 year period. Obviously if I changed the interval to 15,000 miles it buys its way in BUT I wanted to show the most conservative approach. I hope this helps put things in to perspective.
Thank you for that great analysis and I’m disappointed to see AMSOIL doesn’t currently offer an oil filter for your ‘21 Tacoma. However, you can still use AMSOIL Signature Series and have the peace of mind that your oil will likely have much longer useful life left when your onboard oil change indicator illuminates or is displayed. You might consider trying AMSOIL XL which is less expensive and will likely still exceed OEM life expectancy. In this situation your oil filter life will be the weakest link. Use the links in my description to do your research and let me know if you have any questions. Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide!
@@WorksIRL actually, there’s a filter for the 2020 model so I will be using that. I figured Amsoil didn’t update their list. the filters are the same for both years. Ea15K02
@@thepokerpilotapp Well, I sure make for being a stellar Independent AMSOIL Dealer! 🤣. So glad you’re smarter than me as I should have given that a look since we’re barely into 2021. Again, maybe give AMSOIL XL a look in your calculations as I’ve found it’s still an excellent choice balancing AMSOIL quality with a slightly lower price. For me, it fits the bill nicely as I don’t put on the miles you can get from AMSOIL Signature Series and with the Ea15k oil filters still lets me go 1 year or 12,000 miles. Are you already working with an Independent AMSOIL Dealer? Are you an AMSOIL Preferred Customer? If neither, shoot me an email and I can get you setup as a Preferred Customer trial for 6-months and AMSOIL often provides free shipping on orders over $100 and periodically as low as $50 orders. Either way, keep us posted what you decide and your feedback on AMSOIL.
@@WorksIRL I purchased directly from the Amsoil website and don’t have a rep. I also purchased the 6 month preferred customer. I also used the engine flush and then used the signature oil and Amsoil filter. I did this on my wife’s 2019 Outback with 23,000 miles. Now, and I’m an engineer in aerospace, it feels as if all of the moving parts on the vehicle magically changed and became FRICTIONLESS. Crazy right? But I don’t know a better way of explaining this. I’ve always wondered what benefit would be derived if low friction wheel bearings were readily available.
@@WorksIRL full disclosure, I’m a bit obsessed with wringing out performance of my vehicles. I have a Honda Insight with 230k miles that I use as a commuter for work. I drive 150 highway miles daily and do the following to get 65 mph. 51 tire psi Removed both side mirrors Removed back seat Removed passenger seat Removed spare tire Removed rear hatch wiper All this while ignoring that I could gain even better mileage by simply losing the 30 extra pounds that envelops my 59 year old aging body, lol.
The AMSOIL product line-up includes top-quality lubricants and cleaners for automotive, motorcycle, industrial, heavy-duty, marine and many other applications. As an Independent AMSOIL Dealer, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you click these links and buy something, I'll receive a small commission. Check-out the AMSOIL products to help solve your challenging lubrication, filtering and cleaning needs by heading to www.amsoil.com/c/products/1/?zo=5085611.
Since your replying . The reason I'm watching your video , is because my owner manual on the Outback . Said to use 0W-20 Synthetic oil . Would that be Full Synthetic . Because the manual only said Synthetic . Kind of confusing .
@@warrenslo5895 In my opinion, I prefer full synthetic, especially on Subaru boxer engines since gravity tends to apply slightly more wear on the lower radius of the pistons than in-line vertical and V-configured piston engines. Some “synthetics” might actually use “blends” for their base components. Of course, Subaru states they recommend using only Subaru motor oil which they claim is formulated specifically for the unique conditions encountered on their engines. I trust AMSOIL full synthetic motor oils but would likely resort to Subaru motor oil over Mobil 1 due to my experience using that in my Jeep Liberty where it consistently resulted in a waxy build up in the oil fill opening. Opinions on motor oils vary as much as any product along lines of personal brand loyalty. Good luck and keep us posted what you decide 👍.
I definitely was a skeptic of AMSOIL myself over a decade ago but after having observed pretty foul visually waxy buildup in the upper portions of two of my vehicle engines after investing in using MOBIL 1 all their existence and getting back poor oil analysis results when way under manufacturer recommended intervals then switched to AMSOIL and immediately stopped seeing any waxy build up and oil analysis coming back stating oil still had multiples of predicted usage remaining even after manufacturer interval had come and gone…I’ve been an AMSOIL fan. I respect everyone’s personal choice on vehicle oil selection and change interval decisions since our vehicles are such a huge expense, definitely trust your own instincts because my experience may be unique to my driving style and conditions. I’m even likely to change my opinion over time as nowadays not much stays the same quality or consistency for long. Thanks for watching and sharing your insights! 👍
Here’s another tip about using a Fumoto valve. The valve has a nipple to secure a drain tube. You can drain the oil directly into an empty 5 qt container and you don’t have a oil pan to clean later. Oh, have you figured out yet I am a process guy? My whole career has been about efficiency. Lower cost, improve processes, make things safer, etc. LOL guilty
I’m all about good processes and completely agree. I have started becoming a little less rigid after being worn down by my kids making a mess of my garage, vehicles and workshop where I used to have everything in its place and a place for everything but hoping to get back to holding the line with myself as they begin to leave the nest 🤣.
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Just made the switch from using mobile 1 for year, the difference is night and day. AMSOIL has definitely blown away any expectations I’ve had!!
Supworlds Faction that’s awesome to hear and exactly the feeling I had when I made the switch to AMSOIL so many years ago. Thanks for your trust and patronage my good man and enjoy the heck out of that Preferred Customer membership!
I've been Bypass Filtering my Amsoil oil changes every month now for the past 4 months. I built a bench filtration system because I use the same oil in all three of my vehicles. This way I only need to purchase one filter instead of one for each car. When you have a Fumoto valve in place of your standard oil drain plug it makes this filtration process so easy. I drain the oil into a dedicated polycarbonate 2.5 gallon jug, filter the oil on the bench and reintroduce it back into the vehicle all in the span of 15 minutes.
It works so well I think I'm going to do the same for my differential and transmission oils. I'll get a dedicated filter for each oil type since their are different oils along with their own polycarbonate jugs. I'll perform these bypass filtrations once per year. It won't be as easy because there won't be a Fumoto valve but I'll devise an easy and clean way of capturing the oil.
Man, that’s so cool! You amaze me with your ingenuity putting that all together and making it reality. Thanks for keeping us updated and will be curious how your transmission and gear oil filter processing comes together as well. Stay safe and well!
I’ve heard good things about Castrol Magnitec and Penzoil Platinum too.
I just wanted to add that, if you go to a dealer for a full synthetic oil change, you’ll be paying $85 to $100.
Do it yourself for about $50.
That’s how I see it and figure those savings add up over the years, too!…not to mention it’s not easy finding mechanics/technicians that you can feel really care as much as you do about your own vehicles.
Love the video. I became an AMSOIL dealer in nov 2020. best choice I have ever made
Thanks for watching and leaving a nice comment! Always great to hear from fellow independent AMSOIL dealers and others who have found the quality of AMSOIL products , too. I wish you all the best and hope you find growing success as an independent AMSOIL dealer...stay in touch!
@marclln It's like everything in life, you only get out of it relative to the effort you put into it. In my case, not much :-). I became an independent AMSOIL dealer to obtain products at dealer pricing for my own usage due to having a number of personal vehicles spread across my family. As my kids' friends began seeing the convenience and cost-savings of AMSOIL, I began selling to them as well. Then I started selling to a number of mine and my wife's coworkers. As my kids leave the house, I hope to get more time and actually put some effort into my AMSOIL business. I've seen some opportunities I'd like to pursue and plan to ramp it up. This video was a start to that process. Let me know if I can answer any other questions and if you're interested and click the links in the description to learn more directly from AMSOIL's website regarding their Preferred Customer program. If you do end up buying anything or signing up, I'll get credit which may lead to me getting a small commission. Keep in touch!
You need to pull the dip stick and clean it off before replacing the drain plug and replacing the motor oil. This is to prevent any dirty oil from mixing with the new fresh oil. Good Job!
Good tip! Appreciate you watching and commenting!
Starting the engine with an empty oil filter can lead to some engine wear that is easily avoided by pre-loading the oil system.
To pre-load the oil system, press the accelerator pedal down to the floor and crank the engine...it will not fire but the oil pump will function.
Repeat this in two 30-second cycles until the low oil light goes off. Then it is safe to start the engine.
Wow, what a great tip! Thanks for sharing that with us. I will definitely try that next time and add that to the oil change process. Thank you for watching and sharing your knowledge!!
@@WorksIRL The old Subarus from the 1990s-2007 had an oil filter mounted from below so you could easily fill the new oil filter with new oil. Mr Subaru youtube talks about preloading the newer subarus on his youtube channel.
I was thinking of MrSubaru1387 when you first commented to go see if he mentions that in any of his videos. Good to know he does...I'll check it out, too! Thanks again for sharing this important tip!
I tried that and it cranks and seems like the motor shakes a bit from not actually starting...is that normal? are you really supposed to hold that for 2 30 second cycles? seems hard on the starter and battery.
I haven’t tried it myself. We’ll see if Missy Skeeter replies.
Thank you for a very detailed and explanatory tutorial. Much appreciated!
Thank YOU for taking time to leave me your nice comment and good on you for looking into changing your own oil or at least learn what's involved so you can decide if it's something you want to do yourself or pay someone to do it for you...still good to know what's involved to be sure it's done right.
Thank you so much for your help though this video. It really helped me completely to know what to do to change the engine oil on my 2021 Subaru Forester. Thank you so much againz
I’m delighted to hear that and good on you for changing your own oil! Thanks for watching and taking time to share your kind remarks…I truly appreciate you! Have a happy holiday!
Love Amsoil, I personally like using the signature series.
Always good to hear from other AMSOIL fans. I, too, love the Signature Series. I switched to using the XL mainly because I just don’t put as many miles on in a year. Also, the only AMSOIL oil filter available for my Subaru Forester is their 15k model, not the 25k model, though, I could easily change just the filter on the Forester since it’s so easily accessible and already upside down so wouldn’t likely be holding much, if any, oil in it. The XL price is also a bit less so seems to match up perfectly with annual oil change interval with the 15k AMSOIL oil filter. Thanks for watching and commenting how you love AMSOIL 👍.
Another tip coming your way. I use RhinoGear ramps to put my front end on. Great $50 investment. Makes it easy to get under the vehicle and access everything. Quick on and off process. My driveway has a slight grade so when I use the ramps my vehicles are actually level but I wouldn’t hesitate to use them on level ground for this purpose.
Good to hear, again from someone with good credentials like you as I’ve had some slight hesitation on whether the sloping backward might leave a small amount of old oil in a pocket rear of the oil drain hole...just me speculating on that. There’s an American-made brand called Race Ramps (??) as I try to buy as much American-made even when more money but their pricing is a bit more of an investment and frankly those Rhinos look a little nicer to me. I may need to get those as my CIVID-19lbs weight gain working at home has expanded beyond that to more like COVID-35 🤣. Making a tighter squeeze on the next change for sure.
@@WorksIRL well, I’m certainly not touting my credentials BUT I do subscribe to a rational thought process. Here’s what I’m doing now.
I will change my signature series and oil and Amsoil filter every 10k miles, 15k miles sooner than recommended
My outback takes 5.1 quarts. IF, and that’s a big if, a 1/4 quart remains in the engine, that means I’ve replaced 95% of the oil which was replaced at 40% of its life. That means I will perform two oil changes before the recommended interval recommendation. I call that a TOUCHDOWN!
Here’s one idea to consider making a video about- a Fumoto valve that replaces your engine oil drain plug. It’s a game changer for the DYIer.
That’s good idea...I have considered installing one of those. I’m a bit old-fashioned and talked myself out of it thinking I hate trusting expensive engine to a tiny little valve or have it get an impact on our terrible Michigan roads which also are covered in salt chunks in Winter. Yes, it’s up behind that plastic shield but I figured with AMSOIL only having to change once a year it’s not as big a deal removing the plug and replacing washer so infrequently. I still may consider adding and will definitely video it...thanks for sharing idea!
@@WorksIRL lol, if you have a risk of knocking that valve you will have larger problems to deal with. They have one version that drains the oil straight out and is fairly low profile.
The one time installation helps with the following too...
No dropping the plug into the pan and having to fumble around for it
No cross threading chance on the continued Re-installs of the plug
No crush washer to change or reuse at risk
The valve makes QUICK work with the change. It helps reduce the mess that’s made. One of the BEST things I’ve ever done actually which is why I’m sharing. All my vehicles get them at the first change.
I’d even argue it makes as much sense for those who bring it into the shop for oil changes. One of the main reasons I change my own oil is because I’ve heard too many stories of plugs leaking, cross threaded, shroud not being put back on or even some shroud screws missing. This one change, the Fumoto valve, may just be the thing that would make many to reconsider doing their own oil changes. The main reasons for me to do my own is I want the BEST oil, the BEST filter and I want to know everything is done right. I’m positive there are many vehicles everyday that get less the good treatment and I’m not going to let myself be one of them. And one more thing I’ll admit.... I feel AWESOME for a week when I change my oil. Don’t exactly know why that is but it’s a natural high and I’m man enough to admit it, lol.
@@thepokerpilotapp you’ve convinced me! 🤣. If it passes your muster that’s good enough for me! Also, all the points you make are compelling. Sure would like to avoid that handful of used oil each time I try to pull away the plug when draining. I also know that feeling of satisfaction after changing vehicle oil. Nice fresh oil flushing through the engine passages and pistons wiping through fresh, slick AMSOIL goodness 🤣. I’ll start looking at those Fumoto valves for my next change on my wife’s Subaru.
@@WorksIRL I put the fumoto valves on my cars too. They are very good and I haven't had any problem with them getting damaged or leaking and I live in N.H. so we get plenty of harsh weather with snow, salt, etc. You also have a vehicle that has the filter in the hood. So if you put the fumoto valve on and then attach a hose to it when you drain the oil, you will not have a drop of oil spilled!
@@chrisryan8863 That’s awesome to hear so now you guys have me convinced that’s the way to go! I’ll have to order up one of those. Hearing your harsh N.H. Winter conditions and it’s not been a problem is comforting. Sure will be nice saving my skin from absorbing that fistful of old oil 🤣!
Have u done a transmission fuild on your Crosstrek or Forester. I have a 2021 Crosstrek and I got 20000 miles on it now so soon I'll need to do one. If u do one could u make a video that would be great
I’ve not changed the CVT fluid on my Forester, yet. I’ll certainly do a video of it as it is coming up due soon. Thanks for the suggestion and I appreciate you watching and reaching out!
Good job. I have question? I also have a 2012 Forester. I change my oil and twice the oil light went on very faint pull over to level ground but the level was fine. I always check the level. Did you every hear of this with the Forester. Thanks
I haven’t experienced that issue or know anything about it. My speculation would start with maybe the oil pump is starting to fail or simply the oil level “sender”/sensor, wiring short or wiring harness connection issue. I vaguely remember some years of Subaru engines had oil pickup tube with shoddy welds causing them to break off and not able to suck sufficient oil volume to keep the engine properly lubricated…that might be pretty urgent to checkout before causing irreversible engine damage. There might be a clogged oil pick up screen on that tube, too. I’d have thought those would illuminate oil pressure light, not oil level light, though. The other “easy” fix might be a battery starting to go and causing random electrical issues. Thanks for watching and please keep us posted when you find out what the issue was causing your oil low light to dimly light a couple times.
Amsoil nothing but the best
Hey, I'm honored to have you check this out...thanks man! I completely agree on AMSOIL...It's the best!
@@WorksIRL ur welcome man we will have to chat and make some colab vids the season
@@Duey_diditGarage Oh man, I would dig that! You're making my night buddy! Please, let's stay in touch!
@@WorksIRL shot me an email dueydidithd@gmail.com
Hello. I am new to your channel. I often use Amsoil too (and if not, Pennzoil ultra platinum). I am curious how long it is before your maintenance indicator light goes back on after you change your oil? You mentioned you wait 1 year but I imagine the light must go on before that, yes?
Hello Chris, that’s a good question! I have had to reset the oil life reminder on my Subaru Forester and my 2015 Jeep Wrangler without changing the oil before. If my memory serves me, I think I found my Subaru let me set the reminder date and mileage so now it’s actually synchronized with my 12k/1year schedule. My Wrangler seems to actually time-out pretty close to once per year changes since it doesn’t rack up as many miles but it must calculate the short trips in cold Winter and humid Summer as possible high-wear conditions. Thanks for watching and I hope you’ll consider sticking around!
Do you know what the difference is between the 15k filter and the ones for 25k miles? What is the construction difference between the two? What features allow for the additional 10k miles? What explains the two versions and what is the price difference between the two? Inquiring minds would like to know. Thanks!
Sorry, my RUclips Studio mobile alert didn't show your comment and I didn't see it until logging via desktop. I did some research and reviewed dealer forum discussions and oddly, I couldn't find material differences actually referenced distinguishing the AMSOIL Ea15K and the EaO oil filters. This is strictly my speculation but it maybe the "application" in which the oil filter will be used determines the Ea15K vs EaO model designation. Again, as an Independent AMSOIL Dealer, I'm not speaking for AMSOIL nor have any specific information to make that speculation. It's simply my conjecture that certain engines may tolerate longer-duration oil filter changes as long as certain oil filtration characteristics are utilized. My memory isn't what it was but I could swear my own vehicles used to have an EaO and Ea15K option but I'm not seeing in the AMSOIL lookup...again, my mind may be making that up. Regarding price differences between the two seems to be a couple bucks. I'm sorry I'm not giving you a clearer answer because it's a really good question. You might consider writing the editor of the AMSOIL Preferred Customer magazine you get to see if they'd post that in the reader's question and answer section. I may submit it to the AMSOIL Dealer magazine along with a couple other questions I've got to see if they publish a response.
@@WorksIRL thanks for the reply. As you likely know, as of today, I’ve decided to go much deeper and go for the bypass filter to REALLY get a handle on particulate size.
I think I have an improvement to my original idea- to install a oil bypass system into my Tacoma. Well, because I have a 2021 model and it has filter cartridge instead of the normal canister filter I would also need to purchase an adapter that would cost $230. That would make the entire system cost just over $500. So, I have an idea. I have 3 vehicles and what I do with one I should do with all. I could purchase the bypass filter, an electric pump, some tubing and fittings all for about $400 and build a remote system to install in my shed.
So, my process will be to drain my oil directly into a clean container using my Fumoto valve, cycle it through the pump and bypass filters overnight, and reintroduce the filtered oil back into my vehicle. I suspect I'll do this every 3 months, so 4X per year, and I'll be able to service all of my vehicles with just this one system. This approach accomplishes what I want for a lot less dollars and provides me capacity to do all of my kids vehicles too- even my neighbors if they'd like.
Wow, that's really inventive idea! You might be able to patent and market that :-). I have read articles about why not to go to quick oil change places or low-buck oil change shops as the articles discuss some of those operations use recycled/filtered oil that's then supplied en masse back to the shops to keep costs lower. I'm not sure if that's true but if it is and it's good enough to use commercially then your system is much better as it's your own personal filtration service. Not sure if you'd need to be concerned with mixing minute amounts of different oil viscosities as the system would have small residue from each filtration batch and in the filter(s). If you create this, you might consider making your own RUclips channel to document your construction, use and results over time. I suspect you'd have a fair number of followers to see how it turns out. Keep us posted!
@@WorksIRL I’m fortunate that all 3 of my vehicles all use the same 0W-20 so I’m good to go.
@@WorksIRL just completed my first round of bypass filtrations using amsoils 2 micron filter. The entire process was extremely easy and quick. The fumoto valve shines in this application. My plan now is to filter my vehicles every month. That’s how easy it is.
I have less than $150 invested in this bypass system that supports all my vehicles because they all use the same oil.
@@thepokerpilotapp wow, that’s really impressive you put together such a filtration system...very cool indeed! I can appreciate how the Fumoto valve shines for ease and cleanliness of frequent draining. I’ve never performed oil analysis and as we discussed earlier the expense of it could be better applied to cost of oil and filters. I’ve read how fleet operators use it to help determine oil life when dealing with cost of maintaining many vehicles. I wonder if it would provide you any insights into how the oil chemistry holds in regard to oxidation and other oil-life chemical measurements. You’ve built something very interesting and I appreciate you keeping us posted on your endeavors.
@@WorksIRL yep. I will get an oil analysis on the vehicle at the one year mark. To reiterate, I use signature series 0w-20 and will replace both the oil and filter at 12 months. The oil will have only about 12,000 miles on it. I’m curious if there’s a way of evaluating how the monthly 2 micron filtration will have on the oil. When we perform continuous oil analysis on our government aircraft we also evaluate particulate size and count per milliliter of volume. I’m not sure I’ve seen this kind of data on the reports.
As a frame of reference the lowest particulate size we evaluate for aircraft is between 5 and 15 microns. If this Amsoil bypass filter can remove particulate down to 2 microns I’d be ecstatic but without a test that reports those numbers it will leave me to either blindly accept their assertions or always be suspicious of their claims.
The bypass Filter has a restricter port on the outlet side of the filter and I removed that. It shouldn’t have any impact on the filters ability to pull out 2+ micron size contaminant. I was actually surprised to find the restricter port there thinking it was the denser filter media that was slowing the flow down but apparently not. Being the filtration is being done offline and on a bench the need to control flow shouldn’t matter.
My 2019 Nissan Frontier SV 4x4 requires an oil change every 5,000 miles or six months, whichever comes first. As long as the vehicle is under the manufacturers' warranty, I have to adhere to Nissan oil drain intervals...
I understand and that’s prudent. AMSOIL OE and XL are still good options even adhering to manufacture guidelines given their relatively reasonable pricing and quality. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@WorksIRL ...I used AMSOIL XL 5W-30 on my last oil change...much better than the Valvoline I had used previously.
I’ve got a question. If I drove 15k miles per year can I change the oil at 6 months but maintain the filter which would be changed at the 12 month interval? This is the regular setup not the bypass. Ive heard and read that the filter should be changed as well but I’m struggling to understand the why.
What I've read agrees with what you're finding which is changing the oil filter at each oil change. I have a Jeep Wrangler that uses a cartridge-type oil filter and I've speculated with doing the opposite of what you're saying if I were putting many miles on it every year. In other words, changing the oil filter every 15k but only changing the oil every 25k/year mainly because it seems the cartridge filter on the Wrangler appear could be changed without impacting any loss of oil like my older Wranglers. I think the weak link in the duo of oil and filter is the filter when it comes to using AMSOIL. I think they've formulated the oil to handle the long-mileage/one-year but I suspect the oil filter has the potential of getting clogged depending on engine condition/age/etc. Again, just my speculation.
I’m hot on pursuing the Dual Remote Bypass system and would like your input and I’d like to do all my business through you. I’ll share my entire thought process with you but you know me well enough by now- I take the conservative path. The way I’m evaluating this has a payback period of just under 5 years and the plan would be to change both filters once per year and the oil every 2 years. The mileage for the 2 year period won’t exceed 25k miles. This will allow me to filter my oil at 2 microns!!! Pretty cool I think. What’s your preferred method of contact?
Thanks!
Michael Quibble
Funny, when I was researching your oil filter question, I saw AMSOIL's by-pass filtration system and thought of you. Regarding buying through me, I truly appreciate your consideration. I'm confident AMSOIL automatically assigned you to a dealer when you originally signed up as a Preferred Customer. I wouldn't want to step into their zone and I'm perfectly happy knowing we're all helping you get the AMSOIL product that best meets your needs. Regarding the AMSOIL bypass filtration systems, if you haven't already done this, you might first consider doing the AMSOIL Oil Analysis first. Maybe take some oil samples periodically to see if it indicates how your oil is holding up before investing in the cost of the bypass system. Here's a link to the AMSOIL Oil Analysis options:
www.amsoil.com/c/oil-analysis/102/?zo=5085611
I do like communicating this way if it's acceptable to you. Our discussion may help others looking for similar answers/discussions. My email is on my channel's About tab, too.
@@WorksIRL welllllllllll, the vehicle in question is a 2021 Toyota Tacoma Pro with 800 miles, lol. Oil analysis is likely not required. At 59 I’m looking to keep this vehicle a long time and want to take the preventative measures now that will pay dividends years down the road.
Oh I get what you're saying and think it's wise, especially with a Toyota known to last forever with even modest maintenance. I was thinking the oil analysis might show the remaining life on the oil itself to give you an idea of how it's holding up. Granted, the cost of the oil analysis is almost half the cost of an oil change. I'm thinking of doing a video on using the oil analysis for a Jeep Liberty in which I had used the AMSOIL Signature Series oil but have let the oil sit in it for years. I'm curious how it's held up and if the oil analysis can indicate any details on the oil quality itself in terms of "life-left".
@@WorksIRL I’m having difficulty following the rationale of the oil test when using it to determine WHEN to change the oil. If I send a sample in and they tell me I have xx life remaining I’m assuming you don’t do it again before replacing the oil. If you did it would have been the same approximate cost as if you had changed it earlier WITHOUT the benefit of cleaner oil resulting from a change.
My approach, which may be a minority position, is to use Amsoil and all of its filtration to reduce particulate in my oil so I reduce wear, extend engine life or reduce future maintenance cost. I’d rather change my oil 5,000 miles earlier than necessary than pay $30 to help squeeze out those 5,000 or so miles- but I’m either OCD, anal or both about my oil. I guess the aviation in me has contaminated my viewpoint on oil analysis to the point of not wanting any particulates in my oil when it is preventable/ manageable.
Taking this extreme approach to change the oil and filters more often than what’s recommended will cost me, on average, a whopping $50 more a year. For that kind of money I’d argue you can’t spend $50 on anything that will help your vehicle like this will.
@@thepokerpilotapp I think your rationale makes perfect sense. I’ve personally been curious on the time vs. miles oil life measuring scale. I generally don’t put nearly as many miles as the average and wonder if the oil analysis would present enough data to show the oil quality is still good enough even after going longer durations of time. I thought similarly in the other direction of even after higher miles the analysis might show it’s clean enough to continue without changing. In other words, actually provide some metrics and feedback on the oil itself of how a period of conditions (high miles or longer duration) affects it. I admit the cost of analysis seems better applied to just resetting the oil by changing it. In my case with my Liberty, it’s utterly money spent on curiosity to see if Signature Series held up neglected through multiple seasons with low miles or does its chemistry actually reflect it degrading and breaking down just mostly sitting unused in the engine. In the end, seeing if time vs. miles or if the analysis sheds any extra peace of mind that it withstands even sitting long times without losing its protection properties or proving time is just as detrimental.
Hi, I did all this and while the car starts, it won’t engage in gear. Any idea what I could have done wrong?
It isn't stuck in park because I can put it into reverse, and it says reverse on the dashboard R, b ut it won't reverse. NO room to try drive.
Drained the transmission fluid instead of the engine oil…… Subaru said it is very easy to confuse the two…..Don’t know if they were being generous and supportive, but it made me feel better.
@@kateryder530 oh shoot! I’m so sorry to hear that but also glad you figured out the issue. Now be careful if you’ve added engine oil since you’ll have twice the engine oil in it since you never drained the old engine oil! You’ll still need to drain the engine oil using the engine oil drain plug this time.
I have read of others doing what you did as well so I know you’re not alone. Well, on the positive you’ve changed your transmission fluid 😎. Also, be sure you add the proper amount and type of transmission fluid. I’ve not done that on a Subaru so I can’t offer any details on that process. Please keep us posted and good luck!
@@WorksIRL Have just worked out the problem. Now I need to find out how to refill the car with transmission fluid……
@@kateryder530 again, be sure you haven’t overfilled engine oil if you still added new motor oil thinking you’d drained it already when you hadn’t.
I’ve used Amsoil from day 1 and now have 25,000 miles with 5k intervals. Is there ever a time I should flush the engine?
I used AMSOIL's engine flush one time on my 16-year old Jeep Liberty with 130k miles because the oil hadn't been changed for years and the vehicle had been sitting mostly un-driven for a few years. In my opinion, that's the type of situation where using an engine flush product may help to try diluting and emulsifying any heavy sludge to hopefully flush out or splash onto oxidized internal components in hopes they get a good dose of detergents to help clean off. However, I don't think engine flushing is something I'd routinely perform on the engines in my vehicles, especially newer engines in late-model vehicles where the oil is routinely getting changed at or more frequently than manufacturer's recommended maintenance schedules with high-quality motor oil that meets or exceeds manufacturer specifications. Even after using the flush on my Liberty, I'll likely change the oil sooner than normal just to be sure any residual engine flush solution and resulting dislodged or diluted material is more thoroughly removed from within the engine. Of course, free will and your right to do as you think is best for your personal property is all that matters. Let us know what you decide to do and what your opinion is on the topic. 👍
@@WorksIRL I’m of the same mindset. Just wanted to confirm. Thank you.
@@thepokerpilotapp Great minds think alike 😎😎
Subaru uses a different kind of oil. They have some that specially made for Subarus.
You're right, the Subaru Forester User Manual states they recommend always using "SUBARU approved engine oil." The User Manual also states if SUBARU approved oil is unavailable, it lists alternative oil can be used as long as it is SAE viscosity 0W-20 synthetic with an oil grade American Petroleum Institute (API) classification SN with the words "RESOURCE CONSERVING". AMSOIL XL is licensed with the current API SERVICE SP RESOURCE CONSERVING oil grade rating which is downward compatible with oil grades SN Plus and SN. I've come to trust AMSOIL's products for over a decade in all my vehicles. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@WorksIRL I’ll keep this in mind thank you!
I’m about to use Amsoil for the first time despite having listened it is too expensive. Here’s what I’ve calculated for my 2021 Tacoma Pro. It takes 6.2 quarts. If I use the cheapest synthetic and filter it will cost me 31.41 per change. If I do this every 3k miles it will cost me $1,046 over 100k miles. If I use the Signature Series AND the Amsoil filter it will cost me $77.92 per change. If I do this every 5,000 miles it will cost me $1,558 over 100k miles- ONLY $513 more. If I drive 10k miles a year the Amsoil will cost me $51 more per year.
I think I can handle $51 more a year EVEN IF Amsoil isn’t any better. If it is- the $51 extra each year is a bargain because it likely has saved me more than the extra $513 over the 10 year period. Obviously if I changed the interval to 15,000 miles it buys its way in BUT I wanted to show the most conservative approach. I hope this helps put things in to perspective.
Thank you for that great analysis and I’m disappointed to see AMSOIL doesn’t currently offer an oil filter for your ‘21 Tacoma. However, you can still use AMSOIL Signature Series and have the peace of mind that your oil will likely have much longer useful life left when your onboard oil change indicator illuminates or is displayed. You might consider trying AMSOIL XL which is less expensive and will likely still exceed OEM life expectancy. In this situation your oil filter life will be the weakest link. Use the links in my description to do your research and let me know if you have any questions. Good luck and keep us posted on what you decide!
@@WorksIRL actually, there’s a filter for the 2020 model so I will be using that. I figured Amsoil didn’t update their list. the filters are the same for both years. Ea15K02
@@thepokerpilotapp Well, I sure make for being a stellar Independent AMSOIL Dealer! 🤣. So glad you’re smarter than me as I should have given that a look since we’re barely into 2021. Again, maybe give AMSOIL XL a look in your calculations as I’ve found it’s still an excellent choice balancing AMSOIL quality with a slightly lower price. For me, it fits the bill nicely as I don’t put on the miles you can get from AMSOIL Signature Series and with the Ea15k oil filters still lets me go 1 year or 12,000 miles. Are you already working with an Independent AMSOIL Dealer? Are you an AMSOIL Preferred Customer? If neither, shoot me an email and I can get you setup as a Preferred Customer trial for 6-months and AMSOIL often provides free shipping on orders over $100 and periodically as low as $50 orders. Either way, keep us posted what you decide and your feedback on AMSOIL.
@@WorksIRL I purchased directly from the Amsoil website and don’t have a rep. I also purchased the 6 month preferred customer. I also used the engine flush and then used the signature oil and Amsoil filter. I did this on my wife’s 2019 Outback with 23,000 miles. Now, and I’m an engineer in aerospace, it feels as if all of the moving parts on the vehicle magically changed and became FRICTIONLESS. Crazy right? But I don’t know a better way of explaining this.
I’ve always wondered what benefit would be derived if low friction wheel bearings were readily available.
@@WorksIRL full disclosure, I’m a bit obsessed with wringing out performance of my vehicles. I have a Honda Insight with 230k miles that I use as a commuter for work. I drive 150 highway miles daily and do the following to get 65 mph.
51 tire psi
Removed both side mirrors
Removed back seat
Removed passenger seat
Removed spare tire
Removed rear hatch wiper
All this while ignoring that I could gain even better mileage by simply losing the 30 extra pounds that envelops my 59 year old aging body, lol.
The AMSOIL product line-up includes top-quality lubricants and cleaners for automotive, motorcycle, industrial, heavy-duty, marine and many other applications. As an Independent AMSOIL Dealer, I earn from qualifying purchases. If you click these links and buy something, I'll receive a small commission. Check-out the AMSOIL products to help solve your challenging lubrication, filtering and cleaning needs by heading to www.amsoil.com/c/products/1/?zo=5085611.
That oil was really dirty .
Oil color isn’t a reliable indicator and I agree it was definitely time to change it! Thanks for watching! 👍
Since your replying . The reason I'm watching your video , is because my owner manual on the Outback . Said to use 0W-20 Synthetic oil . Would that be Full Synthetic . Because the manual only said Synthetic . Kind of confusing .
@@warrenslo5895 In my opinion, I prefer full synthetic, especially on Subaru boxer engines since gravity tends to apply slightly more wear on the lower radius of the pistons than in-line vertical and V-configured piston engines. Some “synthetics” might actually use “blends” for their base components. Of course, Subaru states they recommend using only Subaru motor oil which they claim is formulated specifically for the unique conditions encountered on their engines. I trust AMSOIL full synthetic motor oils but would likely resort to Subaru motor oil over Mobil 1 due to my experience using that in my Jeep Liberty where it consistently resulted in a waxy build up in the oil fill opening. Opinions on motor oils vary as much as any product along lines of personal brand loyalty. Good luck and keep us posted what you decide 👍.
@@WorksIRL Thanks for your time . Much appreciated . 🔧
No vehicle manufacturer recommends use of Amsoil…..hmmm. Please don’t get triggered, it’s not worth!
I definitely was a skeptic of AMSOIL myself over a decade ago but after having observed pretty foul visually waxy buildup in the upper portions of two of my vehicle engines after investing in using MOBIL 1 all their existence and getting back poor oil analysis results when way under manufacturer recommended intervals then switched to AMSOIL and immediately stopped seeing any waxy build up and oil analysis coming back stating oil still had multiples of predicted usage remaining even after manufacturer interval had come and gone…I’ve been an AMSOIL fan. I respect everyone’s personal choice on vehicle oil selection and change interval decisions since our vehicles are such a huge expense, definitely trust your own instincts because my experience may be unique to my driving style and conditions. I’m even likely to change my opinion over time as nowadays not much stays the same quality or consistency for long. Thanks for watching and sharing your insights! 👍
Here’s another tip about using a Fumoto valve. The valve has a nipple to secure a drain tube. You can drain the oil directly into an empty 5 qt container and you don’t have a oil pan to clean later.
Oh, have you figured out yet I am a process guy? My whole career has been about efficiency. Lower cost, improve processes, make things safer, etc. LOL guilty
I’m all about good processes and completely agree. I have started becoming a little less rigid after being worn down by my kids making a mess of my garage, vehicles and workshop where I used to have everything in its place and a place for everything but hoping to get back to holding the line with myself as they begin to leave the nest 🤣.