Best Spray Foam Insulation in a Metal Garage / Building (Sprayed Thin)
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- Опубликовано: 5 окт 2024
- I used 3 Dow Froth Pak 650 closed cell kits to insulate my shop ceiling only spraying about a half inch thick.
#RPMChuck #NitrousChronicles #KingOfTheStreets #Sprayfoam #MetalGarage
Love the video & info. I'm going to insulate my shop in the same fashion. I'm also a drag racer and my new addition houses a SuperFlow engine dyno which should be up and running by December. Built a 30x30 building with a 12x16 cell. Have spent more $ than I ever imagined. Inflation sucks!!
Thanks again
Terry
Good deal. Yeah anything you do right now is crazy expensive. I paused my shop addition halfway through when everything went nuts. I figured I'd pick it up again when things went back to normal. Guess that will be a while.
Thanks for the tips. Going to do this next week to the roof of a 12' x 28' shed with an exposed metal roof. Live in Florida and needed a solution to combat condensation in the summer. The Building will be a combo she-shed for my wife and a storage room in the back. I like your way of puncturing tanks!
Thanks and good luck. Always fun puncturing the tanks!
Hello- how did it work out for you? I’m in Florida also. Considering doing it myself.
@@fullcasitafullheart9476 In the end, I went with traditional insulation. I really wanted to do spray foam, but the cost was going to be $2500-$3000 for the foam, and traditional insulation ended up being about $800. Costs have soared in the past couple of years for this. I will say that I literally just finished dry-walling it all last week and the traditional R13 with drywall made a huge difference in keeping the shed warm over the past week's freezing nighttime temperatures. I think the spray foam would have been even better, but I just could not spend that much cash on it.
@@aytviewer2421 I hear you! Thank you for your response. I to think it’s going to be too much of an expense for my family. I think I’m going to stick with the old school stuff.
Good info here on the safety equipment and you helped me decide whether to go this route or not. It looks like fido's ace and I know if I tried to spray it mine would look even worse, because it needs repetition to get good.
I would definitely say its not cheaper to diy this task. I did the math for square footage at 4" in my Rafter Space in my Attic and I was literally only saving $187 in total and the end quality of the stuff the Company brought out and spray compared to the Froth Kit. $187 for someone else to do it was well worth it. I didn't even factor in the cost of Safety Gear...
At 4 inches thick it would be more expensive than hiring it out in my area. You definitely wouldn't want to do that job either. It would take forever to spray that much with low volume DIY type kits. If you look at the marketing for Frothpack, you will see these kits are not meant to be primary insulation in a home. They are made for small jobs and areas like rim joists. I used it for my purpose sprayed thin as a thermal break for metal and to stop condensation. When I called professional spray foam contractors, none wanted to spray less than 2 inches thick. I didn't need that nor does 90% of guys with metal garages.
@@rpmchuck-nitrouschronicles We used the froth packs in work for spray into metal boxes that clad over pipework valves and flanges (cold applications). Not designed for lofts or attics as you rightly say.
Another good practice is to tape off the metal beams with clear packaging tape or painters tape for a cleaner look in the end so it don't look just like this some guy half ass spray foamed his garage himself. You wanna add value to any project you do to a house or on the property and one day when someone goes to look at this house they are going to think damn imma need to tear that all out and have it redone..
Is this a wood building? Oh wait, I think you said it might be a METAL BUILDING.
Just kidding. Great video, thanks for showing how to do it.
i just watched a guys video in Wisconsin who had a hell of a time with this product. he only got about 25% of the coverage that he should have. i think the warming of the tanks trick would have helped him. i think he done the "project" in december of last year.
Yep and the instructions don't tell you either. Got to get the pressure up and even between the 2 tanks. Hot water is the best way. Anybody who races with nitrous know this. We use a hot water bath in the car trailer to get the nitrous bottles to the right temp. The water envelops the tank and gets the material inside even too.
Great video my guy I would like to know where you Purchase the hoses n sprayer kit…..?
Thanks, I got mine from Lowes.
would you recommend installing wiring conduit before or after spraying the building? fixing to spray mine and would appreciate your input
I would definitely at least rough wire the building first. Be sure to go with more outlets than you think you need. That way you don't have to try adding later with the foam in the way. It makes it look neater to camo the electrical with foam. Just be sure to mask off light fixtures, outlets and switches heavily. As in paper and tape protruding enough that you can find them to trim them out after foam.
can you do this just for the seams for a better seal and vapor barrier. Then add fiberglass batts for a much higher R ?
You could. I'd at least get it all covered even if it was 1/4" thick. Traditional insulation on top would probably net great results.
How many square feet did you get from 1 kit ? And how thick was it sir ?
I got not quite 600 square feet covered per kit sprayed ay varying thicknesses. the flat areas was around half an inch but the areas around purlins and rafters, eve cavities and electrical was a lot more. My application isn't a very good measurement of yield.
Thanks for the vid. Can you link to some information on the respirator system you're using? Would a respirator be enough or does it need to have an oxygen tank?
This is the one I have. It works pretty good as far as I can tell. I can't smell things through it and it doesn't fog up easily. Plus I'm still alive so far.
www.amazon.com/dp/B08LG4TYMD/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_imm_1F0VTS4C9CP1SWBG5W4Y
@@rpmchuck-nitrouschronicles Awesome! Thanks. I wasn't sure if you had the supplied air or or powered air. The supplied kind seems overkill, so I appreciate your response.
@@vinny1995 by law u have to have supplied air ..with isocyanate the very best 3 m filters are really only gd for approx 15 mins before they start to get wrecked....ten meters away from the spray vapour then a filter works..but whilst spraying
.u need supplied air forsure
@trevorstrutt1 much appreciated. I ended up hiring a small company to spray foam my 25 x 30 metal workshop 1 inch and paid $2300. Thanks to your video I am so glad I made the choice to have it insulated.
Hey, great video, Question, Will spraying from the inside, also fix any small leaks that you might have in the roof, thank you
Yeah, closed cell foam will stop a small leak. I'd fix any that I could find before installing it but stuff like a future screw gasket drying up or small gaps won't be a problem.
So how did that pencil out as opposed to using the plastic wrapped fiberglass you see in a lot of metal buildings? Foam just seems so costly and especially in small DIY amounts.
Probably more expensive but much easier on an existing building and air tight. If you are able to install blanket type to the frame of the building before the metal roofing and siding is installed, it is pretty nice. If you have an existing building though, you have to make a way to attach it. You can't just staple it or easily tack up wood strips like on a wood frame. If you figure the labor and cost to add something to hold it up, the cost difference shrinks. The foam adds to the rigidity and makes a moisture barrier that has no space between the metal and the insulation for water to be trapped. Blanket is terrible for sweating on the backside against the metal.
I have a 24x48 metal building. My roof is already insulated. But I got to do the 4 Walls. Not sure how much of this I need to do an inch thick on all of the walls. Any tips on figuring out how far it will go ?
It comes in different "board feet" quantities. Just figure your square feet of wall space and that will be your board feet at 1" thick. You have to be real precise on getting the temperature equal, keep it up until it's empty, and waste nothing to get the advertised board feet out of it. More like about 85-90%.
dear sir, would u mind to help me figuring my project. I have a school bus 40 feet long. now I would like to converse to be shoolie r.v. I would like to use closed cell foam spray to protect condensation or use as barrier. if I use the same product as u use it, for how many of them should i order it. the floor is 40ft by 7.5ft. 2 side wall is 8ft by 40ft, n ceiling is 7.5ft by 40ft. for the ceiling n floor should be 1.5inches thick, 2 sides wall should be 2.5 inches tick.. second question is....can I spray this material in the night time because in my CITY of FRESNO, CALIFORNIA, the weather on July and August AT the night time from midnight to early morning should be around 85 to 70 degree Fahrenheit. in the day time in FRESNO in JULY AND AUGUST should be around 90 to 110 depend on each day, but never below this point. I hope u would use ur spare time to help me.
These kits are rated in board feet which is square feet by 1 inch thick. Accounting for waste I would figure it more like 500-550 board feet per kit. This will vary depending of how balanced you get the temperature and pressure of the 2 tanks, how little you waste and how smooth/flat the surface you are applying it to. You will need to do the math for each area multiplied by the thickness you want to spray. I don't see a problem spraying at night as long as conditions are in range. I would also price the job out to a residential installer and compare what you come up with for material alone. When the job gets that big and spraying that thick, having it done may be just as inexpensive or more so.
@@rpmchuck-nitrouschronicles thank you so much . i will go look for the local company and compare the price as u advise. thanks again
how much coverage sq.ft
-36... I nearly died laughing;)
HOW MUCH IS THE KIT??
www.lowes.com/pd/FROTH-PAK-LOW-GWP-620-Sealant-Foam-Insulation-Kit-USA/5001957645
How long did it take for the smell from the foam to go away.
I didn't notice anything while spraying it since I was wearing a respirator. Then I don't recall it ever smelling like anything the next day or so after. If it did, I didn't pay any attention to it. I'm sure it must have had some smell but it couldn't have been bad or I would remember it. I think the complaints you hear are from poor mix ratio that cause it to not cure properly.
@@rpmchuck-nitrouschronicles that's awesome because yes i seen one time they had to tear it all out of a house. it never set up completely . now that i seen it done it makes since because its two parts just like mixing epoxy.
@@Raven-rf7cz Exactly. That's why it is important to put both tanks in a hot bath for at least an hour so they are both up to temperature and equal. That isn't in the instructions though, that's an old nitrous oxide racing trick.
@@rpmchuck-nitrouschronicles Old school is the best school.
How much did it cost to do the entire building?
4000
$2250. I used 3 kits. I did everything except the bottom 8' of sidewalls quick already had traditional insulation. The building is 24x36'.
www.lowes.com/pd/Dow-FROTH-PAK-650-Foam-Insulation-Kit/999972980
9 times out of 10 it's cheaper to actually hire a professional spray foam company to come do it for you. We spray mich higher quality foam typically installed for the same or less than a diy guy would pay for materials alone.
@@flewis763 BS! Do you work in Eastern NC, because I can buy the material for my 50x50 shop for $4k less than I can hire a pro to do it!?
@@stumpbumpers idk who's giving you his but either they are crazy high, or you are buying froth pak for dirt cheap. A 620 froth pak is $690 bucks, that's $1.11 per board foot and those thing really only spray decent to 550 board feet so that's $1.25 per board foot. They also do a marginal job.
Most jobs we spray with current material prices are $1.05-$1.15 per board foot installed, (we are typically spraying 2-4 inches though, if you are only spraying 1 inch, it costs more for that single inch per board foot).
I'm in minnesota lol so sadly I cant help you on getting it done.
Any problems with the form
Any problems with the form getting between the metal and the frame and pushing it up or out?
@@mackandchezz It doesn't really rise that much or push it's way into voids like Great Stuff in a can. You have to spray it into the cracks and behind stuff or it will not get there. The rise isn't powerful enough to do any damage. It will just push out any opening instead of swelling in place. It goes the path of least resistance. I'm sure open cell foam would be different with it's higher expansion.
I’m trying to do the same! Can you tell the difference after the spray foam? Are you planning on adding more spray foam?
It's way better. I'm not adding any more. It doesn't hold heat like my house, but it is more than acceptable for a garage/workshop. Best part is, I've experienced zero condensation. I actually did it last year, so this makes my second winter and it was quite tolerable in 95°F heat too. I use a diesel forced air heater that I run just enough to keep it around 55-60°. That is good working temp for me. In the summer, I turn on the exhaust fan, open the garage doors and use a big pedestal shop fan.
@@rpmchuck-nitrouschronicles last summer did you experience any condensation?
@Just think lmao
Why do you close youre one eye when you talk??
I am blind in my left eye. All i can see through it is harsh light. Kinda like if you went through the day with a flashlight shining in one eye.
Ooooh oke im sorry i tought you wanted to look like george masvidal :p but good expination of video
Lol, no problem. I thought about getting a patch but you know.
I live in belgium i going to do an open spray foam in the roof from my house 15cm thick you think thats good?
@@chawki000000 open cell is OK as long as you already have a moisture barrier like plastic sheeting. 15cm would be plenty. For home insulation it really wouldn't be worth it to do it yourself unless there are no reasonable profesional spray foam installers in your area. Those guys have the equipment to lay it on heavy and fast and get it in large drums. To do a residential instalation in the needed thickness and large area would take forever with the DIY kits and probably cost you more. These kits are really intended for rim joists, small repairs or single wall remodel situations where bringing in a truck would be overkill. What I did here with a thinner install was just to make a thermal brake and stop condensation. If I would have wanted to insulate it at several inches, I would have just had it done professionally.
Dont be cheap hire a company to do it for ya.
No.