Just wanted to thank you for the time you put into your videos and your willingness to share your expertise. I had closed cell foam done on my new construction work shop and your videos really helped me to vet out what company to go with and what I could do on my end to plan construction sequences properly to stack the odds in the the installers favor to make it as easy as possible to get the desired outcome.
Richard L here. I am preparing to Spray Foam my Post Frame House. Your Channel is a huge blessing. My frame did get a Tyvek type House Wrap, including the roof. Should I consider some way to support the House Wrap between the Roof Trusses? Trusses are 4’ centered with 2’ centered Purlins. It seems to have been put on tightly, but your advice to not have Spray Foam put on the underneath of a roof with House Wrap has me concerned.
We foamed our wood framed steel sided building with 2" closed cell direct to the steel. Unfortunately, the steel buckled everywhere due to the heat during installation. The foam is great for insulation, but the building looks terrible. I wish I would have used a barrier or thicker steel. I would never do this again on 29 ga!
Your installer should have realized how thin things were and did a flash coat to allow it to firm up and build less heat. This was a tough learning situation for you both.
Hey Mike, question, could I apply cold cell spray foam over my stuccoed home with furring strips placed over the stucco where the studs are. The metal siding would go over that. I live in a 1930s home in California. I don;t want to remove the stucco as I suspect I have asbestos in the stucco. Thank
I'll be building my metal shop down here in central Texas and will be using closed cell foam. I'd like to be able to replace damaged panels without disturbing the spray foam. I've seen builders add a layer of Tyvek or house wrap between the sheetmetal and the purlins so insulation could be attached to that. What are your thoughts on this detail? Is there an alternative you'd recommend over house wrap to isolate the sheetmetal exterior but still allow spray foam to be used? Thanks!
On a pure metal building it would be a hassle to wrap it because of how would you retain the wrap in the wind prior to the metal being placed? I also do not agree with it being used for the roof as it can allow pockets of low spots to be made where water can collect. Removing the metal later is a moot issue and not a sensible future-proof IMO.
Thanks for the reply. They use double stick tape to adhere the wrap. I agree it doesn't seem to be a very good solution and could create different issues down the road. Your point of pockets holding moisture is a good one. @@SprayJones
our hail damage was easy for removing the steel. Company that did the steel wanted it smooth with no bumps from the ribs. Then it was the aftermath of learning not to put an wires on the top of the girts when you trim the foam for new steel you wont hit a wire if the foam or electrical guy didn't hold the wire back enough from the metal.@@SprayJones
i removed the back of our building for a new addition and there was moisture all over on the foam. esp. where there was a leak in the window that we didn't really know about. ate away the wood column. I am worried if we spray foam the new park will we have the same moisture between the foam and the back of the steel.@@benabzug-qualityservicesof4118
For metal buildings with traditional rubber washer fasteners the rubber dries out and cracks with age and begins to leak. If the bottom of the roof is sprayed with closed cell when the roof is new, will that seal each scree and create a lifetime seal, even when the rubber washer fails?
what would your recommendation be on a wood frame 8'x24'x44' with a concrete floor located in SC, will be fully contained with a conditioned attic space, would you spray closed or open directly to the interior metal roofing and walls, the interior finished walls will be PVC paneling.
I was an Iron worker in Wisconsin for 6 years. In that time is started my own spray foam business and I could not understand why we would waste out time installing fiberglass insulating in buildings.
Yea i am not sure what happened to mine then. The guy sprayed two coats with a total of around 3.5 to 4" of foam on 28 gauge metal and it pushed out but on a post frame building. Great video. How long does it take to spray a big metal building like the one in the video?
@@garenpletzer1532 Only 2 options: Spray onto a substrate that cannot push against the metal.... questionable.. Flash coat the metal with a thin 1/2" layer of foam and let it set up before anymore passes. This is more time / money consuming.
Great info. I wanted to sheet it with 7/16s but during the whole design process i somehow forgot about it till last week and the building is up. I was thinking rigid foam between the wood grits against the Tyvek but i didn't know how that would perform with condensation or if it would melt the foam. But there would be that added cost for the ridged foam same as the 1/2" layer of closed cell. I could add 7/16s osb to the inside of the wood girts but then there would be 1.5" gap between the tyvek and the osb if that matters.@@SprayJones
@@garenpletzer1532 You do not want voids and pockets in the outer wall assembly that you can avoid. These are areas for water to collect and start rot. Foam is to be adhered, when you run around putting something between the foam and building you compromise adhesion and the open up to new additional issues.
Very informative videos on a process that seems to be somewhat confusing and conflicting . Was wonderind what your thoughts are on insulating a steel building with open cell foam . What are the consequences , is it a definite not do , will it still be perfoming its intended function in say fifteen to twenty years ? This building is located in B C in a climate zone similar to Sask , highs and lows to 30- 35 degrees celsius . I have contacted 3 spray foam contractors in the area one is fine spraying open cell the other two wont touch it if they dont spray closed cell . They each have their own arguments to support their views . Not knowing anything on the subject i sought info on the web where i happened upon your site and thought why not ask Mike for an impartial opinion . This is a new construction steel building with structural steel, purlins and girts . Thank you in advance for your time , any input on the subject will be very much appreciated .
You can use open cell - but closed cell is the better choice. Water about vapor barrier? Are you required to have one where you are? if so closed is the answer.. Open cell will need to be covered with hard surfaces inside. Open cell cannot get wet, it cannot be hit, and it is not pleasant to look at. When we do metal buildings most if not all clients want the benefits that closed cell offers for support, water resistance, longevity and ability to be left open and fireproofed.
So sadly we have a roof that had closed cell (2”) spayed on the outside and then coated with silicone twice in 25 years. Which is what you said “don’t do”. As you said it’s become completely soaked because the top coat has deteriorated and allowed water in! Do we have the whole top scrapped off and have closed cell sprayed inside and just coat the scrapped metal roof coated again with a silicone? Thx!!
Serious options are the only ones. You will need to chat with a good roofing contractor and one that understands SPF to get a proper game plan together.
How long before you would have to get exterior spray foam recoated that is on a roof? Southern Kentucky if that matters. It is starting to sun fade a bit.
I am getting an existing metal building spray foamed and I am concerned about what type of foam to use and how deep. I know you recommend closed cell, but I am concerned that the 2” of closed cell will not cover the metal fasteners that are securing the sheet metal to the purlins. You can tell that those screws were frosting in cold weather and moisture was building because there is rust inside the purlins. This barn had only rolled out insulation before. Half of the building is living the other half is the shop with no interior walls. We are trying to add rooms into that shop area.
@@SprayJones I appreciate the response. In all my research I still am unsure whether closed cell or open cell is the best option. I have seen it done both ways in metal buildings. We will be in this home for the rest of our lives so I am willing to spend more money up front if closed cell is truly the best option. Seems like I get conflicting information wherever I go on the internet lol
Hey spray jones, do you have a video for what to look for when doing a red iron barndominium in central florida climates? I got a quote to do ours closed cell 3" but was also thinking maybe closed cell first and then open cell over top the closed cell. Is that a good combination/idea to do? Any suggestions or recommendations for this? Do we need to spray the purlins since we are in florida between lakeland and orlando? I know for this video your up north in colder climates but just wanted to ask this question. Thank you sir! Appreciatw all your videos and great information keep it up! 😁
Southern Oklahoma here . Your channel is the best on RUclips. New construction metal building that's going to be conditioned.. Thinking of R value of between 19-22 range. Thoughts on open cell direct to sheetmetal to achieve rhis R factor .?
I love all the knowledge you include in your channel. I am building an ICF house with a composite concrete deck for the roof. I’d like to use a spray foam top covering. Do you have any experience or knowledge in this application?
Hello, 1st of all really enjoy your videos and educational content. If doing an aluminum building so I need to clean (mineral spirit) and prime prior to spraying closed cell. I am getting a lot of conflicting info from different sources - some say just spray it while others say prime before hand. I know you mentioned galvanized steel definitely needs this but what about aluminum? I'm more inclined to quote priming the metal to ensure I avoid any possible issues but don't want to add cost/time for customer if not required. Appreciate any response.
Aluminum absolutely needs to be primed. Ask any painter.... it is very tough to stick to without priming. Also there are specific primers for Aluminum so get the correct product.
That's something that can't be answered on the internet. As different areas are different prices. How many inches? Open cell or closed? There's multiple questions in determining the price only a local contractor can answer.
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Just wanted to thank you for the time you put into your videos and your willingness to share your expertise. I had closed cell foam done on my new construction work shop and your videos really helped me to vet out what company to go with and what I could do on my end to plan construction sequences properly to stack the odds in the the installers favor to make it as easy as possible to get the desired outcome.
That's great to hear! More work done properly is the goal.
I’m curious to know more about the primer application, and options for intumescent paint…if you add that on to a video at some point. Great content.
Great stuff Mike!
Im spraying my first two Metal buildings this month.
Awesome video
Richard L here. I am preparing to Spray Foam my Post Frame House. Your Channel is a huge blessing. My frame did get a Tyvek type House Wrap, including the roof. Should I consider some way to support the House Wrap between the Roof Trusses? Trusses are 4’ centered with 2’ centered Purlins. It seems to have been put on tightly, but your advice to not have Spray Foam put on the underneath of a roof with House Wrap has me concerned.
We foamed our wood framed steel sided building with 2" closed cell direct to the steel. Unfortunately, the steel buckled everywhere due to the heat during installation. The foam is great for insulation, but the building looks terrible. I wish I would have used a barrier or thicker steel. I would never do this again on 29 ga!
Your installer should have realized how thin things were and did a flash coat to allow it to firm up and build less heat. This was a tough learning situation for you both.
Hey Mike, question, could I apply cold cell spray foam over my stuccoed home with furring strips placed over the stucco where the studs are. The metal siding would go over that. I live in a 1930s home in California. I don;t want to remove the stucco as I suspect I have asbestos in the stucco. Thank
Yes you could.
thinking about doing closed cell foam in our new pole barn. will oil canning be an issue on 29 gauge crinkle, board and batten metal?
It can. Just have them install a 1" thin coat first, allow to harden up and then build successive layers. Work smart and test before blasting away.
@@SprayJones thats a good tip. i assume this will help or eliminate oil canning? how long does it take for the oil canning to occur (if it does)
@@CollingFilms Well I sure wasn't talking about hockey... within 2 mins you will see and temps equalize.
Did you end up spraying a thin layer first? I wish I had known about this tip sooner.
I'll be building my metal shop down here in central Texas and will be using closed cell foam. I'd like to be able to replace damaged panels without disturbing the spray foam. I've seen builders add a layer of Tyvek or house wrap between the sheetmetal and the purlins so insulation could be attached to that. What are your thoughts on this detail? Is there an alternative you'd recommend over house wrap to isolate the sheetmetal exterior but still allow spray foam to be used? Thanks!
On a pure metal building it would be a hassle to wrap it because of how would you retain the wrap in the wind prior to the metal being placed?
I also do not agree with it being used for the roof as it can allow pockets of low spots to be made where water can collect.
Removing the metal later is a moot issue and not a sensible future-proof IMO.
Thanks for the reply. They use double stick tape to adhere the wrap. I agree it doesn't seem to be a very good solution and could create different issues down the road. Your point of pockets holding moisture is a good one. @@SprayJones
our hail damage was easy for removing the steel. Company that did the steel wanted it smooth with no bumps from the ribs. Then it was the aftermath of learning not to put an wires on the top of the girts when you trim the foam for new steel you wont hit a wire if the foam or electrical guy didn't hold the wire back enough from the metal.@@SprayJones
i removed the back of our building for a new addition and there was moisture all over on the foam. esp. where there was a leak in the window that we didn't really know about. ate away the wood column. I am worried if we spray foam the new park will we have the same moisture between the foam and the back of the steel.@@benabzug-qualityservicesof4118
For metal buildings with traditional rubber washer fasteners the rubber dries out and cracks with age and begins to leak. If the bottom of the roof is sprayed with closed cell when the roof is new, will that seal each scree and create a lifetime seal, even when the rubber washer fails?
Correct
what would your recommendation be on a wood frame 8'x24'x44' with a concrete floor located in SC, will be fully contained with a conditioned attic space, would you spray closed or open directly to the interior metal roofing and walls, the interior finished walls will be PVC paneling.
I was an Iron worker in Wisconsin for 6 years. In that time is started my own spray foam business and I could not understand why we would waste out time installing fiberglass insulating in buildings.
Money.. it's cheap
Yea i am not sure what happened to mine then. The guy sprayed two coats with a total of around 3.5 to 4" of foam on 28 gauge metal and it pushed out but on a post frame building. Great video. How long does it take to spray a big metal building like the one in the video?
29 gauge is the reason. That is VERY thin metal...
Any suggestions other then the Tyvek to help it? I meant 28 gauge plus plaint. 92k psi steel. @@SprayJones
@@garenpletzer1532 Only 2 options:
Spray onto a substrate that cannot push against the metal.... questionable..
Flash coat the metal with a thin 1/2" layer of foam and let it set up before anymore passes. This is more time / money consuming.
Great info. I wanted to sheet it with 7/16s but during the whole design process i somehow forgot about it till last week and the building is up. I was thinking rigid foam between the wood grits against the Tyvek but i didn't know how that would perform with condensation or if it would melt the foam. But there would be that added cost for the ridged foam same as the 1/2" layer of closed cell. I could add 7/16s osb to the inside of the wood girts but then there would be 1.5" gap between the tyvek and the osb if that matters.@@SprayJones
@@garenpletzer1532 You do not want voids and pockets in the outer wall assembly that you can avoid. These are areas for water to collect and start rot.
Foam is to be adhered, when you run around putting something between the foam and building you compromise adhesion and the open up to new additional issues.
Very informative videos on a process that seems to be somewhat confusing and conflicting . Was wonderind what your thoughts are on insulating a steel building with open cell foam . What are the consequences , is it a definite not do , will it still be perfoming its intended function in say fifteen to twenty years ? This building is located in B C in a climate zone similar to Sask , highs and lows to 30- 35 degrees celsius . I have contacted 3 spray foam contractors in the area one is fine spraying open cell the other two wont touch it if they dont spray closed cell . They each have their own arguments to support their views . Not knowing anything on the subject i sought info on the web where i happened upon your site and thought why not ask Mike for an impartial opinion . This is a new construction steel building with structural steel, purlins and girts . Thank you in advance for your time , any input on the subject will be very much appreciated .
You can use open cell - but closed cell is the better choice.
Water about vapor barrier? Are you required to have one where you are? if so closed is the answer..
Open cell will need to be covered with hard surfaces inside. Open cell cannot get wet, it cannot be hit, and it is not pleasant to look at. When we do metal buildings most if not all clients want the benefits that closed cell offers for support, water resistance, longevity and ability to be left open and fireproofed.
So sadly we have a roof that had closed cell (2”) spayed on the outside and then coated with silicone twice in 25 years. Which is what you said “don’t do”. As you said it’s become completely soaked because the top coat has deteriorated and allowed water in! Do we have the whole top scrapped off and have closed cell sprayed inside and just coat the scrapped metal roof coated again with a silicone? Thx!!
Serious options are the only ones. You will need to chat with a good roofing contractor and one that understands SPF to get a proper game plan together.
Thank you.
How long before you would have to get exterior spray foam recoated that is on a roof?
Southern Kentucky if that matters.
It is starting to sun fade a bit.
It depends on what product they used, color and how thick it is. Could be 5 years or 8-10.
Can you do a video on tubular steel buildings?
They are all the same..
I am getting an existing metal building spray foamed and I am concerned about what type of foam to use and how deep. I know you recommend closed cell, but I am concerned that the 2” of closed cell will not cover the metal fasteners that are securing the sheet metal to the purlins. You can tell that those screws were frosting in cold weather and moisture was building because there is rust inside the purlins. This barn had only rolled out insulation before. Half of the building is living the other half is the shop with no interior walls. We are trying to add rooms into that shop area.
Then build up the foam to be thicker where the fasteners are, or spec the whole job with more...
@@SprayJones I appreciate the response. In all my research I still am unsure whether closed cell or open cell is the best option. I have seen it done both ways in metal buildings. We will be in this home for the rest of our lives so I am willing to spend more money up front if closed cell is truly the best option. Seems like I get conflicting information wherever I go on the internet lol
Hey spray jones, do you have a video for what to look for when doing a red iron barndominium in central florida climates? I got a quote to do ours closed cell 3" but was also thinking maybe closed cell first and then open cell over top the closed cell. Is that a good combination/idea to do? Any suggestions or recommendations for this? Do we need to spray the purlins since we are in florida between lakeland and orlando? I know for this video your up north in colder climates but just wanted to ask this question. Thank you sir! Appreciatw all your videos and great information keep it up! 😁
Watch the metal buildings playlist - pick one foam and stick with it. Closed is best in Florida for Huricanes.
@SprayJones thank you sir. 👍
Southern Oklahoma here . Your channel is the best on RUclips.
New construction metal building that's going to be conditioned.. Thinking of R value of between 19-22 range. Thoughts on open cell direct to sheetmetal to achieve rhis R factor .?
I love all the knowledge you include in your channel. I am building an ICF house with a composite concrete deck for the roof. I’d like to use a spray foam top covering. Do you have any experience or knowledge in this application?
Not of that specifically, no one has done one where I am. But we spray concrete ever month so the principals are all the same.
Hello, 1st of all really enjoy your videos and educational content. If doing an aluminum building so I need to clean (mineral spirit) and prime prior to spraying closed cell. I am getting a lot of conflicting info from different sources - some say just spray it while others say prime before hand. I know you mentioned galvanized steel definitely needs this but what about aluminum? I'm more inclined to quote priming the metal to ensure I avoid any possible issues but don't want to add cost/time for customer if not required. Appreciate any response.
Aluminum absolutely needs to be primed. Ask any painter.... it is very tough to stick to without priming. Also there are specific primers for Aluminum so get the correct product.
When would it be alright to do 2 in of closed-cell spray foam and then cap it with open-cell spray foam? An alternative to flash and batt?
Not often, pick one and stop playing with problems.
What tip size are you using?
01 & 02
What does it cost to insulate a metal building 30x50x16ft with spray foam?
That's something that can't be answered on the internet. As different areas are different prices. How many inches? Open cell or closed? There's multiple questions in determining the price only a local contractor can answer.