Stop! You Will Double Vapor Barrier Your Spray Foam Insulation
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- Опубликовано: 11 сен 2024
- Thinking of putting poly over your closed cell SPF? Better watch out!
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Very well said,,I spent 35yrs in below grade above waterproofing,interior and exterior sealants all on commercial level. Great video
Thanks for sharing
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience!
A vapor barrier on 2 sides of things always makes me pause because now the things can’t dry if water does get in and over 10 years water is going to get in.
I had a friend spray foam their crawl space, which looks great. Then they put linoleum across the entire first floor. Is this going to be a problem if moisture somehow gets to the subfloor?
I assume you mean they sprayed the backside of the floor. No there won't be issues because who wouldn't see water on the lino? Undiscovered leaks are nearly impossible inside living spaces.
Yes the backside of the floor.
Good to know. Thanks.
At 9:42 you point out a installation failure. You mentioned that it probably happened pretty quickly. How long after the spray foam is applied should I wait to start drywall to insure this type of failure doesn’t happen after i cant see it?
SJ you are the coolest guy i know !!wait no depends on the season!! if it is winter you are the warmest guy i know..:) only in the summer you are the coolest guy !! you and your team rock and i dont mean wool ...oh sorry cant stop the puns..
Spray foam is great, do you think it'd be useful to have a formula which changes color with prolonged liquid exposure? So all the foam would change color a little from normal vapor exposure, but in the case of a failed roof area you'd be able to detect a very dark area.
Interesting idea, wouldn't work too well. The moist in a roof would be held at the outside layer, so how would the moisture wick through a closed cell system to show a color change on the inside... you see?
What if you have a roof leak, how would you know?
When and were do you want water to stop and you be dry?
I am going to condition my attic with ccSPF (1978 house vented attic) and have a question about ceiling penetrations in the 2nd floor ceiling. Should those be air sealed?
Are you converting this from open vented to sealed?
yes, I am sealing up the attic for potential storage space. Installing a pull-down staircase for easy access @@SprayJones
@@perrycammisa6345 Then no sealing them is not much advantage other than keeping things from migrating down.
@@SprayJones awesome thank you for your quick response
i understand about not using a double vapor barrier on the inside thanks for the good info. But what about vinyl siding underlayment that would be between the sheeting and the siding. would this create a moisture issue with the sheeting if you have close cell on the inside of the house against the sheeting? Most of the underlayment is a R1 value.
No issue.
Hi Spray Jones, another quick question based on the very few last seconds of the video. I got lots of 2*8 studs that are stacked side by side, in some instances up to 5 deep. I am currently working on ceiling those seams throughout the house as I await spray foam installation throughout. You mentioned no poly, which I obviously wasn't planning on for the rest of the building, but would it make any sense at all to have small strips on these stacked members... On top of the seams being already sealed? So basically get the seams sealed, and then cut a full lengths poly just for the width of the stacked members, without any poly prodtrucing into the sprayed wall cavity? Like a backup extra layer of protection in case there is a small leak somewhere in the caulking?
We used to use tape to cover the caulking, only so that the interior boarding would not damage the caulking when being installed. We since use a caulking that skins over and is tough. There is no need to put poly, plus the "flap" you propose would need to be 100% sealed on all edges to be of any assistance.
In theory or practice does it make a difference if seams between studs & headers are caulked on the outside-facing side (during framing) or inside-facing side (after framing is complete)?
Both is best. No one does outside.
Hi my question is we are an agricultural/shop builder in the states Iowa we have been building wood framed buildings with 2-3 inches of closed cell foam we put tyvec or a house type wrap on the exterior they are steel sheets with the tyvec between the steel sheet foam directly applied to tyvec the reason we do this is for removal of steel sheets if damaged what are your thoughts on this our foam guys never said we should not do this and never had a problem yet
No issues. Go watch my metal building playlist where we discuss wraps for post frames.
I will thank you@@SprayJones
Just watched that video answered all my questions thanks again
On the diy kits, are they just not good? I have a small room i was going to do with one, or should i look at having a company come and look at it? The room is less than 200 sqft. Thanks for any all the info you have put out.
Get a pro. They usually have a minimum charge.
I have used them successfully. If you pause for more than 15 seconds or whatever is in the manual, change out your spray head. If you don't you'll end up with too much of 1 chemical and not enough of the other. I did a small bathroom with 2 small containers from lowes.
@SprayJones Thanks, i will have one come out and see how much they will charge.
The problem is finding a pro that wont screw you over or create a disaster
For many they live in areas with few foamers with hood exp and i dont want to be their guinnea pig test learning house
Use Aluminum Double Bubble it reflects the heat back into the house or out of the house. But if you are Just going to use sheet plastic don't bother.
What are you talking about??
@@SprayJonesI think he talking about the reflective bubble insulation.
You would seal the joints with acoustic caulking?
Yes, but there are better products to choose.
I thought you would see condensation on the outside during cold weather if there is air leakage from the warm interior to the cold exterior surface such as siding.
You see condensation on your grass in the morning, but there is no air leakage up through the ground. Condensation indicates good insulation and air control.
You need to go back to grade 10 physics class.
@@Zorlig Thanks for the reply but I don't get your point. Moisture forms on grass when
warm air cools below the dewpoint. I'm talking when it's cold and dry outside and warm, moist interior air passing through a wall and condensing onto a cold surface such as the back side of the house siding. Then dripping down the wall.
@@SteveWH978 that doesn't really happen. For example with a leaky house it's going to be very difficult to get the humidity that high.
More likely condensation happens on the inside of the sheathing on an air sealed house.
Hi Spray Jones, love the videos. Just in the final stage of the build before I get the entire building sprayed in a conditoned attic setup. I have a large 10*12 foot shower/tub/wet room, with two of the four sides of the room being the exterior walls. The exterior walls are 2*8 construction and will have 4" of closed cell spray foam on them. The ceiling of the wet room will have conditoned attic space above. I was thinking of putting poly on the ceiling to control humidity from the wet room from spreading into rest of the house, and was wondering if putting poly on the two exterior walls would be a good idea or not...to act as a water barrier should my shower system (probably kerdi foam board) fail and water get past it. Technically the kerdi system itself is water proof, so water won't make it past, but just in case? Any point you think, or no point at all, even on the ceiling? Everywhere else on the house will be drywall on exterior walls and dry spaces, so no poly there anywhere... But bit confused about best approach to this wet room..
How much of this would also apply to Florida?
For that you need to speak with installers that are local to you in FLA.
Great videos and very informative. But I noticed on this video and the last one that your logo in the bottom right keeps jumping. Can you make that stop? It's very distracting.
What this tells me is don’t insulate. Just pay for the energy loss.
Sounds like a Biden idea.
@@SprayJones Hey Oh!. Epic response.
I want to do a conditioned attic, but my builder is concerned about moisture retention if it’s not a vented attic. Have you seen any issues with moisture in conditioned attics?
Watch the Non-vented roof playlist, 4 part series should be first watch.
@@SprayJonesthankyou! Love the channel.
Firt to know this one 👌
a lot of thermal bridging in those walls...
I believe he did a video on thermal bridging and it was surprisingly minimal. Don't quote me on that, it's been awhile since I watched it.
7:26 -vapor barrier or vapor retarder?
What did I say?
What is 1 perm rating? That is 60Ng
The older term “vapor barrier” is still used even though “vapor retarder” is more accurate.
Great video mr Jones, I have a question that I have not seen answered on your videos my question is on a 2x6 framed walls on a zip board framed house and filling the 2x6 wall with open cell foam is that still enough foam to be a vapor barrier or do I need one , this is in Texas ?
Does your code call for vapor barrier? I am assuming it doesn't.
Secondly I think you are in A/C mode more than heating, so the vapor control would be external not internal.