Very good, I have just made similar clamps for my vice too, I was thinking of milling the base like you did and machining some tenons, but I like the way you chose to use alignment pins, that is a great idea, I will copy this for my mill too! thanks a lot, have subscribed
Awesome projects! Just a quick sidenote, if you mill clockwise with the facemill, the burr gets pushed towards to piece and not to the outside of the part which deburring the part a lot less painful.
Rouphing cutters are made to use the side of the cutter not so much the tip as in a drill bit therefore its best to take full depth of cut but less bite, that way the tip stays sharper longer.
Hi, at 4:29, after getting some chatter, you mill at about 20mm width and about 1,25mm of depth, but you are "conventional" milling. Try the same cut with "climb" milling. You will be impressed. Climb milling is easier on the cutter and on the machine under one condition. Sideways depth of cut is 51% or more of the cutter's Ø. Give it a try.
I used regular mild steel ( 1015 / S235JR). I would have preferred to use 4140 / 42CrMo4 or something like that , but I didn't have any of that material.
Thanks for showing it all in real time, it gives a sense of feeding speed’s and the time that goes in to it
Very good, I have just made similar clamps for my vice too, I was thinking of milling the base like you did and machining some tenons, but I like the way you chose to use alignment pins, that is a great idea, I will copy this for my mill too! thanks a lot, have subscribed
Nice job looks great , won’t stop the coolant pouring off the end onto your feet tho lol great job nice to see your surprise visitor too
Thanks, i still dont have flood coolant installed so it's not a big problem... yet
Awesome projects! Just a quick sidenote, if you mill clockwise with the facemill, the burr gets pushed towards to piece and not to the outside of the part which deburring the part a lot less painful.
Thanks for the tip. I didn't think of that
Rouphing cutters are made to use the side of the cutter not so much the tip as in a drill bit therefore its best to take full depth of cut but less bite, that way the tip stays sharper longer.
Good work. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thanks!
I haven't seen any 'Homemade Tools' in my inbox for years, has it become subscriber only or something?
@@1crazypj Nope, still free. You can always re-subscribe.
Основное усилие от винтов будет прижимать планки к столу...
Nice work + it will save you a huge amount of time 👍👍👍
Tanks
Great! Still to simplify the alignment relative to the table!
Excellent job, 👍👍👍
Hi, at 4:29, after getting some chatter, you mill at about 20mm width and about 1,25mm of depth, but you are "conventional" milling. Try the same cut with "climb" milling. You will be impressed. Climb milling is easier on the cutter and on the machine under one condition. Sideways depth of cut is 51% or more of the cutter's Ø. Give it a try.
Very nice work 👍💫👍
Nice worke
Предлагаю сделать нижнюю упорную плоскость радиальной
I love it
Nice video, thanks :)
Out of curiosity, what material did you choose to use?
I used regular mild steel ( 1015 / S235JR).
I would have preferred to use 4140 / 42CrMo4 or something like that , but I didn't have any of that material.
great for learning german also ))
"Meine Fresse!" 🤣
I don't like it if I did it because of the vise leveling
No karate chops, disappointed!
What can I say, I'm a machinist and I still have to practice my karate before i can do it.
meine Fresse 😂😂😂