Always enjoy the detail you put into your videos, especially being an Atlas/Craftsman lathe owner. No matter how many times I have taken apart or adjusted my lathe I always learn something new watching them. Thanks, Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
I love the old Craftsman Tools I wish they still made them like that So I just keep looking on Craigslist sometimes I get a pretty nice machine for a good deal
Yup. Holes at the back and of the saddle are for taper attachment (as told by the stock attachment that came on my Atlas). Came in two styles, both a pain to use compared to some, so it is only mounted when needed. The holes can also be used for mounting other accessories, like DRO reader and cross slide scale, back side micrometer stop for the cross slide, or whatever else.
Thanks for the details of proper maintenance. As soon as I got done watching I ordered some spindle and way oil on the internet. I can't find it around here.
The name of those two plates on the bottom side of the saddle at 6:30 in the video, are called a "Brg plate" by Atlas/Craftsman. Maybe an abbreviation for Bridge Plate? Some other manufacturers refer to them as "side plates". Thanks for all your great videos, and for the time and effort you put into them.
Great video as always. Should you revisit this subject, you might address the subject of the shims between the contact surfaces with the bed and the shimming of the shimming of the 10-54 lower bearing plates. Also checking the these saddle contact surfaces are flat and parallel. In checking mine, I discovered that one of the rear saddle wings was warped downward by .005" and considerable scraping was needed to correct this warpage.
Excelentes videos! Tengo un torno Atlas modelo TH 42 y su información me ha servido de mucho para reconstruirlo . Muchas gracias ! Le envío un saludo desde Uruguay
Yep, I have accidently lost the carriage locking "nut" and took a while to find where it had hidden itself to on the underside. Thanks for the tour of the underside.
Good to see a man getting some real oil on the skin. some places I have have worked at have 100% gloves on policy for anytime your hands are touching metal, it's sad watching a bloke fumbling around trying to get a bolt washers and nut on looking like an idiot with gloves and at the end of the day their hands are all white and wrinkly from sweating and look rather sickly, me I get my hands dirty and then I wash them so easy so simple, lol.
Way oil is easy to find, it is sold as chainsaw bar oil most everywhere. I have put holes on the top of the wiper covers so I can wet the felt with oil to keep the ways lubed. Oil holes that don't have oilers installed I pack loosely with felt plugs to retain oil and exclude dirt. If you want it to live you have to feed it. Mike (o\!/o)
I believe Mike is spot on. Spending many of my early years in the sawmill, I have poured many gallons of Way oil plus Bar and Chain oil. The Rep. for the distributor that supplied all of our petroleum products advised me at one time that it was fine to use Bar and Chain oil in the event we ran out of Way oil, as the main difference is that the Bar and Chain had "Pitch Reducers" as an additive and a slight difference in viscosity. The Bar and chain oil I buy at the Hardware Store is no where near as "Heavy" nor "Sticky" as the material used in the Mill. If your not operating in a cold environment I would guess one would have no problem using the common Bar Oil found in the Hardware Store.
An automotive mechanic told me that engine assembly oil was refined to function like way oil. It is engineered to remain sticky so the engine will be lubricated during initial start up. Also, a local thrift shop has provided me with several felt hats in otherwise poor condition. Besides that felt's use in French polishing - I'm a woodworker - that high quality felt could be stacked and lightly glued together to make new wipers, ones that are not contaminated with abrasives. Pete, does it seem feasible to have a sway backed Atlas/Craftsman bed re-ground to eliminate the dip near the chuck?
I would love to see an honest in depth side by side comparison between a brand new Chi-Com grizzly SouthBend lathe and an original made in U.S.A. SouthBend lathe. How would the Chinese version withstand the rigorous almost non-stop use that a genuine SouthBend of 1942 vintage had to endure when shops were running 24/7/365 ?
+Jayne Gus I'm noticing the South Bends Grizzly is selling (the heavy 10 in particular) make no mention of back gears..but do offer a slow spindle speed via VFD...The weights are similar. Who wants to spend the money to find out? :-)
+Jayne Gus Yes I agree that would be an interesting series. Not to discredit either brand but just to give an honest evaluation on quality and workmanship of each.
I do that everytime I use a lathe. After thorough cleaning I wipe the whole bed using oil. It prevent rust and minimize friction. A thorough cleaning will remove tiny metal dust that get stuck in the bed which helps on reducing friction.
For a few months I've been watching your videos, and I've discovered that you have the great gift of not boring people. He has a very particular style with which he manages to introduce us into his world and then imbue us with his knowledge. I have spent whole hours watching and learning from their videos and I have never ended up getting bored. Influenced by you, I recently acquired a craftman lathe 12x36 model 101.27440 which I am restoring always supported by your videos, and always following the letter of your instructions and recommendations, I know that doing that when I finish, I will have done a good job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge mrpete222. trad.google.
Наука
Thank you Mr. Pete!
You know, I've found I can hit the thumbs up on Mr. Pete's videos even before I begin to watch as I know I'm going to like them!
Very interesting video. I really enjoy the fact that you do not need music to put your point over. Thanks for sharing. regards from the UK
+Gary C thanks for watching-music can be pretty annoying
Always enjoy the detail you put into your videos, especially being an Atlas/Craftsman lathe owner. No matter how many times I have taken apart or adjusted my lathe I always learn something new watching them. Thanks, Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
+Eddie Kawecki thanks for watching
Mr. Pete. You have clearly demonstrated the inner workings of a lathe. Thank you, it all helps.
+Roy Lucas thanks for watching
Very nice video showing how the parts work, thanks for posting!!
This is a great series..that lathe is rare in that it has lots of years and very little wear...it's a treasure.
Great video. I see an Oliver t-shirt. I own an 1966 Oliver 1850..
This is just what I need! Thank you.
I love the old Craftsman Tools I wish they still made them like that So I just keep looking on Craigslist sometimes I get a pretty nice machine for a good deal
T/Y for a good breakdown on this part of the 12 atlas lathe.
Yup. Holes at the back and of the saddle are for taper attachment (as told by the stock attachment that came on my Atlas). Came in two styles, both a pain to use compared to some, so it is only mounted when needed. The holes can also be used for mounting other accessories, like DRO reader and cross slide scale, back side micrometer stop for the cross slide, or whatever else.
+john john Thanks for the info
Very interesting and helpful. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the details of proper maintenance. As soon as I got done watching I ordered some spindle and way oil on the internet. I can't find it around here.
The name of those two plates on the bottom side of the saddle at 6:30 in the video, are called a "Brg plate" by Atlas/Craftsman. Maybe an abbreviation for Bridge Plate? Some other manufacturers refer to them as "side plates".
Thanks for all your great videos, and for the time and effort you put into them.
+MrMichaeljab Thanks
Very helpful video thanks as always Mr P.
+garry hammond thanks for watching
thank you God bless you
Great video as always.
Should you revisit this subject, you might address the subject of the shims between the contact surfaces with the bed and the shimming of the shimming of the 10-54 lower bearing plates.
Also checking the these saddle contact surfaces are flat and parallel. In checking mine, I discovered that one of the rear saddle wings was warped downward by .005" and considerable scraping was needed to correct this warpage.
Thank you for sharing.
Thank you.
Terms like "saddle" and "apron" make sense when one considers that metal lathes were invented in horse and buggy and blacksmith days.
Thanks,
John
+John Bazaar Never thought of it that way--but true
Excelentes videos! Tengo un torno Atlas modelo TH 42 y su información me ha servido de mucho para reconstruirlo . Muchas gracias ! Le envío un saludo desde Uruguay
👍👍
Hi mrpete222, Thank you for your great videos. M.K.S.
This was a great video, did you happen to make one showing how you took the entire assembly apart?
Yep, I have accidently lost the carriage locking "nut" and took a while to find where it had hidden itself to on the underside. Thanks for the tour of the underside.
+ILGopher thanks for watching
Those plates that hold the saddle to the waze are called Bearing plates. 10F-54 front. 10F-55 back
Very useful video. Want to see the rest of the carriage in detail. Thanks
+Asaad omar thanks for watching
Good to see a man getting some real oil on the skin. some places I have have worked at have 100% gloves on policy for anytime your hands are touching metal, it's sad watching a bloke fumbling around trying to get a bolt washers and nut on looking like an idiot with gloves and at the end of the day their hands are all white and wrinkly from sweating and look rather sickly, me I get my hands dirty and then I wash them so easy so simple, lol.
+Mentorcase Yes--do not like gloves--had to wear them at caterpillar
Enjoy your videos. Very informative. Question, can you use STP "the old sticky stuff" as a substitute for way oil?
+Terran Coach Works try it
Great show and tell, your videos make maintenance a snap.
thankyou for sharing sir...
+Kevin Willis thanks for watching
Way oil is easy to find, it is sold as chainsaw bar oil most everywhere. I have put holes on the top of the wiper covers so I can wet the felt with oil to keep the ways lubed. Oil holes that don't have oilers installed I pack loosely with felt plugs to retain oil and exclude dirt. If you want it to live you have to feed it.
Mike (o\!/o)
I believe Mike is spot on. Spending many of my early years in the sawmill, I have poured many gallons of Way oil plus Bar and Chain oil. The Rep. for the distributor that supplied all of our petroleum products advised me at one time that it was fine to use Bar and Chain oil in the event we ran out of Way oil, as the main difference is that the Bar and Chain had "Pitch Reducers" as an additive and a slight difference in viscosity. The Bar and chain oil I buy at the Hardware Store is no where near as "Heavy" nor "Sticky" as the material used in the Mill. If your not operating in a cold environment I would guess one would have no problem using the common Bar Oil found in the Hardware Store.
An automotive mechanic told me that engine assembly oil was refined to function like way oil. It is engineered to remain sticky so the engine will be lubricated during initial start up. Also, a local thrift shop has provided me with several felt hats in otherwise poor condition. Besides that felt's use in French polishing - I'm a woodworker - that high quality felt could be stacked and lightly glued together to make new wipers, ones that are not contaminated with abrasives. Pete, does it seem feasible to have a sway backed Atlas/Craftsman bed re-ground to eliminate the dip near the chuck?
That is interesting about the felt. No, it would cost a fortune to have that bed ground
Does anyone know the size and pitch f the screws that attach the older pads?
I would love to see an honest in depth side by side comparison between a brand new Chi-Com grizzly SouthBend lathe and an original made in U.S.A. SouthBend lathe. How would the Chinese version withstand the rigorous almost non-stop use that a genuine SouthBend of 1942 vintage had to endure when shops were running 24/7/365 ?
+Jayne Gus That would be an interesting study
+Jayne Gus I'm noticing the South Bends Grizzly is selling (the heavy 10 in particular) make no mention of back gears..but do offer a slow spindle speed via VFD...The weights are similar. Who wants to spend the money to find out? :-)
+Jayne Gus Yes I agree that would be an interesting series. Not to discredit either brand but just to give an honest evaluation on quality and workmanship of each.
is it best to clean the bed spot less?
I do that everytime I use a lathe. After thorough cleaning I wipe the whole bed using oil. It prevent rust and minimize friction. A thorough cleaning will remove tiny metal dust that get stuck in the bed which helps on reducing friction.
For a few months I've been watching your videos, and I've discovered that you have the great gift of not boring people. He has a very particular style with which he manages to introduce us into his world and then imbue us with his knowledge. I have spent whole hours watching and learning from their videos and I have never ended up getting bored.
Influenced by you, I recently acquired a craftman lathe 12x36 model 101.27440 which I am restoring always supported by your videos, and always following the letter of your instructions and recommendations, I know that doing that when I finish, I will have done a good job.
Thank you for sharing your knowledge mrpete222.
trad.google.
Thank you very much for watching and for an extremely positive comment. I have been suffering much abuse from the mallcontents
6:31, I guess you call those the undercarriage?