Fantastic, MrPete.You're the living embodiment of the best of the internet! I've wanted a metal lathe since I was a young man; finally bought an Atlast/Craftsman 12". Thanks for your guidance as I learnt to use it!
I love the info you teach us but I also love your stories from your youth, you must have lived a very rich life. I think you're also gifted with an outstanding memory, I'm 41 and can't remember all the small details of my childhood like you can. I'd love to see a video with you just telling stories. I'd bet your dad warned you about the steering wheel steering opposite and you didn't listen, I could see him laughing when you crashed!
That's funny, I'm the opposite, I guess when I think about it I've had to intentionally block out a bunch of my childhood for my own sanity, that's probably a lot of it.
My Atlas tailstock was a bit out in the vert both height and tilted, as well as worn so the quill is slightly aimed to the rear-- no clue how that works, but someone did it somehow. A little hand scrape and shim for the cross guide and faces between the base and the main part took care of most of it. I brought it up by drilling into the base, loctiteng brass screws in the base (1/2" IIRC) and dressing the tops of the screws a uniform 10thou (again, IIRC) above the dressed mating surface. Not perfect, but within a thou vert and about a thou per two inches of quill travel. No, I would not do it again.
Another excellent tutorial, thank you. Every time I watch one of your lathe demonstrations I curse myself for buying a cheap "toy" milling machine (some time ago now when I was an impetuous, naive fool!) and consequently wishing I had saved up my money for a good quality lathe instead. I have myself to blame, but at least I can dream one day of owning a sturdy metalworking lathe, and in the mean time watch some more of your videos. Best wishes from the UK.
Thanks for the atlas lathe videos. I have a craftsman atlas lathe that I need to get up & running. I m sure your video series will make it much simpler for me.
Interesting that they used a set screw ground flat on 2 sides...makes for difficult fine adjustment and potential slop. I custom made a dog point thumb screw from brass that fits perfectly in the keyway and used a thin jam nut, for my messy built peanut. Also gives a nice bearing surface and get NO rock on the quill. I liked the spring idea below for the quill lock if there is enough room to still clamp! Would be very interested in finding one of those tiny live centers but couldn't see the brand on it? Thank you kindly for the time and energy you put into the lessons and videos for us Mr. Pete. Always enjoy the detail you bring to us and your colorful commentary!! ~PJ
+Jerry Schram IMHO it's quite difficult to grind a flat on each half of a screw to match the width of a key slot "equally on center and parallel" of a 1/4-20, let a lone to say 3 thou tolerance so it doesn't rock. Maybe on a mil. A custom size dog point to match the keyway within 1 thou or less is much easier to do. Plus it has the advantage of giving a sliding fit to the width and depth to the run of the quill keyway. Covering slop in both directions over the run of the quill gives quite a good feel...and definitely does not rock with larger tools in the tail stock. If you are correct on the depth of the keyway being .125 you could theoretically touch the bottom of the keyway in 5, 1/2 turns. However, if the keyway depth is something other than an increment of .025 you will never get a Running Clearance in the bottom of the keyway, let a lone accurately grinding the 2 flats for a RC fit to the sides. For instance if it was .1875 deep the closest you could get is 12.5 thou or double+ an RC9 running clearance. I use end mils in mine to create counter bores and they will definitely jump when starting into the work if not held well...even with a shallow drilled hole the same size. Every job has it's own tolerance whether building barns or space craft, I just prefer to do the best I can with what I have or can make better...for St. Pete's Sake! ;-P ~PJ
+pjsalchemy I think you are missing the point. The object of the key is only to prevent the torque applied by the tools when in use from rotating the quill. It only works on one side and shouldn't touch the bottom of the key way. Most lathes use an actual key to present a flat surface into the key way side. A dog point screw will bear against the quill in too small an area and will leave a divot under heavy load or vibration that will bind and may raise a burr on the quill scarring the tailstock bore. I know, R8 tooling often uses a dog point screw but it is not used in motion only for static location and preventing creep of tools tightly drawn into a taper. They often leave a mark and burr on the key way that must be dressed down. A flat sided screw is a much better solution for a lathe quill. And the nut is only there to keep it from moving and wearing out the thread in the casting not for height adjustment. Mike (o\!/o)
+Experiencing Technical Difficulties I don't think I did, actually. Please note that I was only making an observation and that I made my thumbscrew from brass purposely, so it would wear first, not dink the quill, the lubricity and it was something I could build accurately. I also use white LI grease for the quill and the keyway for the pressures involved. My thumbscrew has been in operation for well over a year now, still smooth as glass and has virtually no wear. If it does I will build another. My point "was" the play between the double ground set screw and the keyway would be difficult to hold a good RC fit unless maybe done on a mill to keep a drill/mill from jumping at the start, creating a conical out of tolerance hole in the part and putting strain on the quill and tailstock. Particularly a 2 flute drill can create a triangular entry based on all the other factors of the lathe, speed/feed, drill/mill like TIR based on the oscillations from the slop. Yes, you will have only 1 point of contact depending on direction of rotation to the sidewall of the keyway. However by getting a closer RC tolerance on the diameter of the dogpoint to the keyway sidewall and an RC fit to the bottom with a square cut face you "virtually" create a 3 point RC fit for the run of the keyway...minimizing slop in multiple directions, or oscillations in this case. Additionally I have found that a "light snug" on the quill lock helps and doesn't hinder the handle feed. Personally I wouldn't venture to say that Most lathes use a key and keyway as I have only seen maybe a half dozen at this level of disassembly...and none I've seen use a key and keyway. It does seem that it might work well but Not sure keys are actually used much for sliding fits...a spline maybe, but expensive. Different paths I guess but I would be greatly interested to see how Hardinge addressed this issue. As for the nut, I'm starting to feel like one, but yes it's a lock nut, but for both in my case. I have seen way too many videos on YT over the last few years where someone goes to drill a hole in something and the drill jumps and wiggles like a bobble head...and still wince every time! Each to his own....~PJ
If the quill lock sticks to the quill, why dont you machine a little spring in between the two clamping zamac pieces? =) Just to spread them more apart.
Very interesting, I didn't know about the knob and white lead well. It was on the old shop Atlas we had bu I had no idea it came out. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge...Russ
Hi, I have been wanting a lathe for a long time and I just recently acquired a Craftsman . Very old lathe and in poor shape. Don'y know what size it is but the tail stock was not moving ,but watching your videos I have learned much. Not only that but have gained confidence on that old lathe, i will not be scared of it any longer, heh heh. thank you, thank you. I have subscribed and will watch many more of your videos. Cheers
Dennis Williams, this set-up looks identical to my Raglan Littlejohn lathe. Well the bed and ways are identical although the tail stock is different. There are no Gibbs on my tail stock. Apparently, Raglan purchased my parts for their lathes from Atlas including the 'split nuts' and I believe the bed and possibly ways. I am delighted to report my lathe does not have zamck gears but cast iron and brass. Interesting material as always from Mr. Pete. Regards. Joe.
Once again a very helpful and informative video. They must have made some changes between your lathe and mine. I would not have recognized that tail stock as being Craftsman as it is a lot different from mine. The bolt to hold it tight on the ways is on the back side instead of the front side and it does not have the lead dispenser. Also I cannot touch the bottom of the bolt that hods the quill lock. Thanks for the video.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Yes, your lathe is the same vintage as mine. The later models in the late 60's to the end were designed like ours with the lock bolt on the back side and not interfering with the saddle and cross feed when close to it. A good improvement in my opinion. Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Filmed in June 2015... posted March 21... you must be a busy man. :-) Coaxial Indicator... I don't have one... but now I'm going to get one... very useful!
Update on the Raglan Littlejohn MK2 tail stock, I was wrong, it does indeed have a gibb with screws underneath and at the front and rear. It's always worth checking your facts before making comments. Joe
Mr. Pete, what do I do when my quill has 3" of indicators but falls off the screw at 2.5"? I've had it apart multiple times and can not find any damage or significant wear. It's almost as if my screw is to short but If it were longer I don't think I could set any tooling.
Huh. Didn't know that. See? That's why this is awesome. I always thought the ball (the little oil piece for dead centers) was some kind of attachment. Obviously mine is stuck, now i'm going to unstuck it because having a small cache of oil handy is always welcome.
Someone i know has cut the riding section on his tailstock and has replaced them with fully adjustable (same material) screwed in plates. His tailstock was so worn that when he purchased the lathe, it would ride under as far as 2 mm. Now, i'm sure the wear is mirrored in the ways as well, but i think the adjustable running surface is a good idea. I certainly want to do something similar for my own lathe, but i have a horizontal misalignment issue, not a vertical one.
Hello Mr.Tubalcain I have recently just acquired a Craftsman 12" lathe and am in the market for some accessories, my lathe only came with a single accessory the milling attachment and that itself was missing the jaws and the rod. If you know anywhere I can acquire a "lot"of accessories for my lathe it would be greatly appreciated... Thank you and thank you for your videos and sharing your knowledge I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos..
You answered my question nicely. when checking to see what back plate is needed do you measure the highest point on the spindle threads? I am very new at this. A friend gave me an old Atlas lathe. Model number 3890. I cannot find any info on it. Some of the parts look the same as yours but the motor assembly is different. Hope you or one of your viewers can point me to some info. Like your videos. I am learning a lot from you.
Ok ...so the courses are no longer available? I sent you an email as well because I did not know how otherwise to inquire about them since the web site was no longer available.
Yes--they are available. Watch this vid for the details. -- SUMMER SCHOOL SPECIAL EDUCATION Video SHOP Courses logan lathe tubalcain ruclips.net/video/BOg80I6BX6U/видео.html
Minor point but is it really 6 inches from centre to slide or not rather from center down to the ways? Manufacturers like to go for the specs that give them the higher figures, for advertising...
How do you remove a stuck-on Morse taper in a tailstock? (It doesn't have a tang so turning the screw all the way back doesn't pop it off) Tried putting a drill chuck on the opposing jacob's taper and using a spacer/chunk of metal to remove it but the jacob's taper popped off instead of the morse taper. Also tried heating the sleeve but that didn't work either.
I know you are old (as I am) and set in your "ways", but shouldn't these be titled "Shop Tip #xxx" as there is only one in this viewing? With all due respect. Excellent videos...my friend was a shop teacher in Milwaukee for many years and retired from there...he is 82.
What depth of cut would you feel comfortable with on the Atlas using HSS cutting tool on, say, a 1" diameter carbon steel workpiece? I've read only .005 diameter cuts. I'm reading that these lathes lack rigidity. Looking for your opinion.
Hey TubalCain! hope you have a minute or two to help me. I purchased an older heavy metal lathe. I am on a budget, not by choice. My issue is I have a morse taper 1 tailstock quill, also a morse taper 1 headstock hollow section. I want to start boring and turning and I am stuck here. I want a drill chuck, and center in the tailstock quill. Also a lathe dog + center in the headstock. I also have a 4in. 4 jaw chuck. So is MT1 on both sides a problem?? I see a MT1 - MT2 adapter on ebay. Should that cause me issues? I am looking for some strategic expertise on pros/cons of my few choices at my disposal. Sorry to sound like a big baby, I am stuck. I did everything else, just stuck here. I want quality. Thanks much, hope you can aid me somehow. --Joseph
He will have to buy tooling and shocks that have a number one taper. I think they are still available. They are very small in diameter. I assume your machine is quite small
@@mrpete222 : hey thanks for the reply. Yes. It is an old English style screwcutting lathe. I removed that for now... I hooked up a PMDC treadmill motor + its controller speed PCB and just soldered on a 10k pot. and all is well. Lantern tool post. I ts is roughly a little bit larger than the 7x14 harbor freight mini lathe, I like the older ones better!! $100 USD was deal. Plus the man who sold it to me asked me to never abandon the project, fix it up, and make some chips. My promises I always keep!!
MrPete I know you have WAY to many subscribers and get a million questions to be able to respond back so maybe some of the viewers could help me- My question is how can I keep my SB lathe from getting that fine rust on all the chrome parts? I clean and oil it often but its out in my unheated garage & only takes a few days for it to start rusting on the hand wheels or is it just something I have to live with? someone told me to clean it good then use Johnson's paste wax on all the chrome parts? anyone have any Idea's Thank you in advance
l didn't mean to say chrome lol the hand wheels just "look" like chrome from just using them- they get all polished up was what I was wanting to say Thanks
On the subject of surface rust, I don't know if it will work as well on the polished hand controls of a machine, but on my basement located vises machined surfaces and machined drill press table I had the same surface rust problem - to stop it I apply a couple coats of a high quality car wax such as Meguires once or twice a year to keep the moisture and oxygen off the metal surface and it totally solves the issue for many months possibly longer. I don't even have to cover them with anything anymore. But again how this would work on control wheels im not sure. Great videos MrPete.
As I mentioned in another comment below, on my drill press table and vise machined surfaces ive found a couple coats of high quality car wax such as Meguires at least once a year seems to totally solve the surface corrosion issue. Again how well this would work on polished hand controls I cant say -
Yep, That is what I was told to use (Furniture paste wax) on my SB to slow the development of the fine rust. The guy who lives across the street from me is a retired shop teacher and used it on all the schools machines. Unfortunately I have been so busy (out of town) I have not tried it yet
+Dennis Williams Yes, I was surprised to see an adjustable gib on the tailstock. This type of gib would not be provided or needed on lathes with V way alignment for the tail-stock.
By the way I wonder how many people wonder what the heck a Tubalcain is... along with Conventional Machining, general knowledge of a certain book has also declined.
Just when you think you know pretty much everything about your tailstock, you watch this guy! Thanks again Tubal. I learn so much from you!
👍
No one has provided such useful information. Bless you.
Thanks
Fantastic, MrPete.You're the living embodiment of the best of the internet! I've wanted a metal lathe since I was a young man; finally bought an Atlast/Craftsman 12". Thanks for your guidance as I learnt to use it!
Congratulations on buying that machine
Your the best and always will be in my book, thanks Mr. Pete
Thanks
Thank you for the great video. You have a wealth of knowledge. Please keep the videos coming.
Thank you for a great video. Don't apologize for talking. You're good at it!
I love the info you teach us but I also love your stories from your youth, you must have lived a very rich life. I think you're also gifted with an outstanding memory, I'm 41 and can't remember all the small details of my childhood like you can. I'd love to see a video with you just telling stories. I'd bet your dad warned you about the steering wheel steering opposite and you didn't listen, I could see him laughing when you crashed!
I am 46 and remember my childhood like yesterday but I can't find my keys.
That's funny, I'm the opposite, I guess when I think about it I've had to intentionally block out a bunch of my childhood for my own sanity, that's probably a lot of it.
I'm currently studying to become a machinery and equipment appraiser; this video was extremely helpful for me, thank you.
My Atlas tailstock was a bit out in the vert both height and tilted, as well as worn so the quill is slightly aimed to the rear-- no clue how that works, but someone did it somehow. A little hand scrape and shim for the cross guide and faces between the base and the main part took care of most of it. I brought it up by drilling into the base, loctiteng brass screws in the base (1/2" IIRC) and dressing the tops of the screws a uniform 10thou (again, IIRC) above the dressed mating surface. Not perfect, but within a thou vert and about a thou per two inches of quill travel. No, I would not do it again.
Another excellent tutorial, thank you. Every time I watch one of your lathe demonstrations I curse myself for buying a cheap "toy" milling machine (some time ago now when I was an impetuous, naive fool!) and consequently wishing I had saved up my money for a good quality lathe instead. I have myself to blame, but at least I can dream one day of owning a sturdy metalworking lathe, and in the mean time watch some more of your videos. Best wishes from the UK.
Just what I need for understanding my Atlas.
Yes
Thanks for the atlas lathe videos. I have a craftsman atlas lathe that I need to get up & running. I m sure your video series will make it much simpler for me.
Interesting that they used a set screw ground flat on 2 sides...makes for difficult fine adjustment and potential slop. I custom made a dog point thumb screw from brass that fits perfectly in the keyway and used a thin jam nut, for my messy built peanut. Also gives a nice bearing surface and get NO rock on the quill. I liked the spring idea below for the quill lock if there is enough room to still clamp! Would be very interested in finding one of those tiny live centers but couldn't see the brand on it?
Thank you kindly for the time and energy you put into the lessons and videos for us Mr. Pete. Always enjoy the detail you bring to us and your colorful commentary!! ~PJ
+pjsalchemy 1/4-20 setscrew 1/2 turn=.025 in a .125 key slot,no matter it is not meant to a slop adjustment it is for anti rotation
+Jerry Schram IMHO it's quite difficult to grind a flat on each half of a screw to match the width of a key slot "equally on center and parallel" of a 1/4-20, let a lone to say 3 thou tolerance so it doesn't rock. Maybe on a mil. A custom size dog point to match the keyway within 1 thou or less is much easier to do. Plus it has the advantage of giving a sliding fit to the width and depth to the run of the quill keyway. Covering slop in both directions over the run of the quill gives quite a good feel...and definitely does not rock with larger tools in the tail stock.
If you are correct on the depth of the keyway being .125 you could theoretically touch the bottom of the keyway in 5, 1/2 turns. However, if the keyway depth is something other than an increment of .025 you will never get a Running Clearance in the bottom of the keyway, let a lone accurately grinding the 2 flats for a RC fit to the sides. For instance if it was .1875 deep the closest you could get is 12.5 thou or double+ an RC9 running clearance. I use end mils in mine to create counter bores and they will definitely jump when starting into the work if not held well...even with a shallow drilled hole the same size. Every job has it's own tolerance whether building barns or space craft, I just prefer to do the best I can with what I have or can make better...for St. Pete's Sake! ;-P ~PJ
+pjsalchemy I think you are missing the point. The object of the key is only to prevent the torque applied by the tools when in use from rotating the quill. It only works on one side and shouldn't touch the bottom of the key way. Most lathes use an actual key to present a flat surface into the key way side. A dog point screw will bear against the quill in too small an area and will leave a divot under heavy load or vibration that will bind and may raise a burr on the quill scarring the tailstock bore.
I know, R8 tooling often uses a dog point screw but it is not used in motion only for static location and preventing creep of tools tightly drawn into a taper. They often leave a mark and burr on the key way that must be dressed down. A flat sided screw is a much better solution for a lathe quill. And the nut is only there to keep it from moving and wearing out the thread in the casting not for height adjustment.
Mike (o\!/o)
+Experiencing Technical Difficulties I don't think I did, actually. Please note that I was only making an observation and that I made my thumbscrew from brass purposely, so it would wear first, not dink the quill, the lubricity and it was something I could build accurately. I also use white LI grease for the quill and the keyway for the pressures involved. My thumbscrew has been in operation for well over a year now, still smooth as glass and has virtually no wear. If it does I will build another.
My point "was" the play between the double ground set screw and the keyway would be difficult to hold a good RC fit unless maybe done on a mill to keep a drill/mill from jumping at the start, creating a conical out of tolerance hole in the part and putting strain on the quill and tailstock. Particularly a 2 flute drill can create a triangular entry based on all the other factors of the lathe, speed/feed, drill/mill like TIR based on the oscillations from the slop. Yes, you will have only 1 point of contact depending on direction of rotation to the sidewall of the keyway. However by getting a closer RC tolerance on the diameter of the dogpoint to the keyway sidewall and an RC fit to the bottom with a square cut face you "virtually" create a 3 point RC fit for the run of the keyway...minimizing slop in multiple directions, or oscillations in this case. Additionally I have found that a "light snug" on the quill lock helps and doesn't hinder the handle feed.
Personally I wouldn't venture to say that Most lathes use a key and keyway as I have only seen maybe a half dozen at this level of disassembly...and none I've seen use a key and keyway. It does seem that it might work well but Not sure keys are actually used much for sliding fits...a spline maybe, but expensive. Different paths I guess but I would be greatly interested to see how Hardinge addressed this issue.
As for the nut, I'm starting to feel like one, but yes it's a lock nut, but for both in my case. I have seen way too many videos on YT over the last few years where someone goes to drill a hole in something and the drill jumps and wiggles like a bobble head...and still wince every time! Each to his own....~PJ
If the quill lock sticks to the quill, why dont you machine a little spring in between the two clamping zamac pieces? =) Just to spread them more apart.
Very interesting, I didn't know about the knob and white lead well. It was on the old shop Atlas we had bu I had no idea it came out. Thanks again for sharing your knowledge...Russ
Hi, I have been wanting a lathe for a long time and I just recently acquired a Craftsman . Very old lathe and in poor shape. Don'y know what size it is but the tail stock was not moving ,but watching your videos I have learned much. Not only that but have gained confidence on that old lathe, i will not be scared of it any longer, heh heh. thank you, thank you. I have subscribed and will watch many more of your videos. Cheers
👍👍
Dennis Williams, this set-up looks identical to my Raglan Littlejohn lathe. Well the bed and ways are identical although the tail stock is different. There are no Gibbs on my tail stock. Apparently, Raglan purchased my parts for their lathes from Atlas including the 'split nuts' and I believe the bed and possibly ways. I am delighted to report my lathe does not have zamck gears but cast iron and brass. Interesting material as always from Mr. Pete. Regards. Joe.
Excellent video. Looking forward to the head stock tutorial. Thanks, Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Once again a very helpful and informative video. They must have made some changes between your lathe and mine. I would not have recognized that tail stock as being Craftsman as it is a lot different from mine. The bolt to hold it tight on the ways is on the back side instead of the front side and it does not have the lead dispenser. Also I cannot touch the bottom of the bolt that hods the quill lock. Thanks for the video.
+Amateur Redneck Workshop Yes, your lathe is the same vintage as mine. The later models in the late 60's to the end were designed like ours with the lock bolt on the back side and not interfering with the saddle and cross feed when close to it. A good improvement in my opinion. Ed K. Cleve. Oh.
Another great video Tubalcain!!
Filmed in June 2015... posted March 21... you must be a busy man. :-)
Coaxial Indicator... I don't have one... but now I'm going to get one... very useful!
You didn't mention the oil dauber's "French" resivóur. Another informative video. Thanks.
Update on the Raglan Littlejohn MK2 tail stock, I was wrong, it does indeed have a gibb with screws underneath and at the front and rear. It's always worth checking your facts before making comments. Joe
Great video. Very helpful. I'm rebuilding mine. Thanks
👍👍
Mr. Pete, what do I do when my quill has 3" of indicators but falls off the screw at 2.5"? I've had it apart multiple times and can not find any damage or significant wear. It's almost as if my screw is to short but If it were longer I don't think I could set any tooling.
Huh. Didn't know that. See? That's why this is awesome. I always thought the ball (the little oil piece for dead centers) was some kind of attachment. Obviously mine is stuck, now i'm going to unstuck it because having a small cache of oil handy is always welcome.
Someone i know has cut the riding section on his tailstock and has replaced them with fully adjustable (same material) screwed in plates. His tailstock was so worn that when he purchased the lathe, it would ride under as far as 2 mm. Now, i'm sure the wear is mirrored in the ways as well, but i think the adjustable running surface is a good idea. I certainly want to do something similar for my own lathe, but i have a horizontal misalignment issue, not a vertical one.
mine swings. 31" baby!! ..leblond 15" thanks for watching..,...
Hello Mr.Tubalcain I have recently just acquired a Craftsman 12" lathe and am in the market for some accessories, my lathe only came with a single accessory the milling attachment and that itself was missing the jaws and the rod. If you know anywhere I can acquire a "lot"of accessories for my lathe it would be greatly appreciated... Thank you and thank you for your videos and sharing your knowledge I thoroughly enjoy watching your videos..
T/Y, we are currently restoring one of these lathes and will see all of them that apply.
👍
You answered my question nicely. when checking to see what back plate is needed do you measure the highest point on the spindle threads? I am very new at this. A friend gave me an old Atlas lathe. Model number 3890. I cannot find any info on it. Some of the parts look the same as yours but the motor assembly is different. Hope you or one of your viewers can point me to some info. Like your videos. I am learning a lot from you.
Most gunsmiths say that sliding metal surfaces should be lubricated with grease instead of oil.
I barely even notice the crickets anymore..;-)
Excellent again Pete ....That link for your night school does not seem to work BTW
Yes no longer good
Ok ...so the courses are no longer available? I sent you an email as well because I did not know how otherwise to inquire about them since the web site was no longer available.
Yes--they are available. Watch this vid for the details. -- SUMMER SCHOOL SPECIAL EDUCATION Video SHOP Courses logan lathe tubalcain ruclips.net/video/BOg80I6BX6U/видео.html
Thanks...sending the check today.
Thank you for sharing.
Did the rainstorm drown the cricket?
Haha, I was wondering the same thing!
Minor point but is it really 6 inches from centre to slide or not rather from center down to the ways? Manufacturers like to go for the specs that give them the higher figures, for advertising...
is it me or is there just a little bit of wobble in the coaxial indicator? I love your work, sir...
How do you remove a stuck-on Morse taper in a tailstock? (It doesn't have a tang so turning the screw all the way back doesn't pop it off) Tried putting a drill chuck on the opposing jacob's taper and using a spacer/chunk of metal to remove it but the jacob's taper popped off instead of the morse taper. Also tried heating the sleeve but that didn't work either.
Remove the quilt from the tailstock. Drive it out from the back side
@@mrpete222 Thanks!
I know you are old (as I am) and set in your "ways", but shouldn't these be titled "Shop Tip #xxx" as there is only one in this viewing? With all due respect. Excellent videos...my friend was a shop teacher in Milwaukee for many years and retired from there...he is 82.
What depth of cut would you feel comfortable with on the Atlas using HSS cutting tool on, say, a 1" diameter carbon steel workpiece? I've read only .005 diameter cuts. I'm reading that these lathes lack rigidity. Looking for your opinion.
Go about .020 do you put on your rough and cuts. And the only two or three on your finisher and cuts. You will eventually get the feeling for it
thankyou sir for sharing...
Hey TubalCain! hope you have a minute or two to help me. I purchased an older heavy
metal lathe. I am on a budget, not by choice. My issue is I have a morse
taper 1 tailstock quill, also a morse taper 1 headstock hollow section.
I want to start boring and turning and I am stuck here. I want a drill
chuck, and center in the tailstock quill. Also a lathe dog + center in
the headstock. I also have a 4in. 4 jaw chuck. So is MT1 on both sides a
problem?? I see a MT1 - MT2 adapter on ebay. Should that cause me
issues? I am looking for some strategic expertise on pros/cons of my few
choices at my disposal. Sorry to sound like a big baby, I am stuck. I
did everything else, just stuck here. I want quality. Thanks much, hope
you can aid me somehow. --Joseph
He will have to buy tooling and shocks that have a number one taper. I think they are still available. They are very small in diameter. I assume your machine is quite small
@@mrpete222 : hey thanks for the reply. Yes. It is an old English style screwcutting lathe. I removed that for now... I hooked up a PMDC treadmill motor + its controller speed PCB and just soldered on a 10k pot. and all is well. Lantern tool post. I ts is roughly a little bit larger than the 7x14 harbor freight mini lathe, I like the older ones better!! $100 USD was deal. Plus the man who sold it to me asked me to never abandon the project, fix it up, and make some chips. My promises I always keep!!
I have reduced the cricket volume in this dropbox file
www.dropbox.com/s/2k7ab2f77nqz4i5/235%20Fixed%20Audio.mp4?dl=0
How did they make that square hole with a round hole in the middle? A broach or a file won't work...
cast
Jiminy crickets oh, did someone say Zagnut?
Nice lesson thanks
Interesting.
"Everything you ever wanted to know about your tail stock but,were afraid to ask"...
TOT
MrPete I know you have WAY to many subscribers and get a million questions to be able to respond back so maybe some of the viewers could help me- My question is how can I keep my SB lathe from getting that fine rust on all the chrome parts? I clean and oil it often but its out in my unheated garage & only takes a few days for it to start rusting on the hand wheels or is it just something I have to live with? someone told me to clean it good then use Johnson's paste wax on all the chrome parts? anyone have any Idea's
Thank you in advance
+Rosario W I have the same problem on all bare metal, but have not noticed it on chrome.
l didn't mean to say chrome lol the hand wheels just "look" like chrome from just using them- they get all polished up was what I was wanting to say Thanks
On the subject of surface rust, I don't know if it will work as well on the polished hand controls of a machine, but on my basement located vises machined surfaces and machined drill press table I had the same surface rust problem - to stop it I apply a couple coats of a high quality car wax such as Meguires once or twice a year to keep the moisture and oxygen off the metal surface and it totally solves the issue for many months possibly longer. I don't even have to cover them with anything anymore. But again how this would work on control wheels im not sure. Great videos MrPete.
As I mentioned in another comment below, on my drill press table and vise machined surfaces ive found a couple coats of high quality car wax such as Meguires at least once a year seems to totally solve the surface corrosion issue. Again how well this would work on polished hand controls I cant say -
Yep, That is what I was told to use (Furniture paste wax) on my SB to slow the development of the fine rust. The guy who lives across the street from me is a retired shop teacher and used it on all the schools machines. Unfortunately I have been so busy (out of town) I have not tried it yet
Dejavu all over again!!
The cricket is driving me nuts. Bet Tubal can't hear it though......
Are there tail stock gibs?
+Dennis Williams
Yes, I was surprised to see an adjustable gib on the tailstock. This type of gib would not be provided or needed on lathes with V way alignment for the tail-stock.
By the way I wonder how many people wonder what the heck a Tubalcain is... along with Conventional Machining, general knowledge of a certain book has also declined.
You are right, it is seldom read