My Dad was a 4th generation tool and die maker. And when he passed away at a young age I received tools back from all the generation of machinists. I welded and fabricated at the time. After having picked up my fathers belongings I purchased a lathe knowing the value of what I had. Thanks to you for your instructions. Most my life I loved to learn things the hard way and you have taken some of the sting out of this learning process.
Thanks for this vid. I just inherited my grandfather's old Atlas. Your's is the first video showing how to use the controls. I'm familiar with 3d printing and CAD. This will be my first foray into manual machining.
I think changing the lathe back to the way was is a great idea. Many people aren't lucky enough to have experienced the evolution of the lathe and have a knowledge gap. It may not seem important but it is important for a total understanding of how things work.
Thanks for the tip on cleaning the lead screw. I have tried the string method and won’t do it again. The last time I cleaned it, I removed it, soaked it in degreaser and then steam cleaned it. I don’t know if it was a good idea or not but it looks brand new now! I used to grease it but I like your idea of using oil better. Thanks again.
That is good info to know on the one lead screw bracket being designed to break away. I didn't know that saved me from other damage when I accidentally crashed my 10 inch Craftsman. I'll see you up at Arnfest in a couple weeks.Ryan
I just bought this exact lathe and am really excited to learn how to use it. I also purchased the How to run an Atlas Craftsman Lathe Vols 1 2 3 4 Great stuff!
Amazing! I always learn something. BTW, those ZAMAK gears will break if leave the reversing lever in neutral and suddenly bump it to engage the gears. Don't ask how I know. Unless I am threaading, I take the spindale stud gear off. I don't think mine has the locking device the one shown does.
Man I wish I had this video series about a month or two ago when I bought my Atlas. Mine did NOT come with the quick change gear box (or any gears for that matter! Was missing a lot of parts) And I had to do a lot of research on which parts I was missing and how to install the quick change gear box. I had to fabricate the template plate to drill the hole in the head stock and everything. It is all up and running now and I love it!
Excellent video and I look forward to this series! Just finished my home foundry and I am watching Craigslist for a Logan with QC gears. I find it hard to believe shop skills are no longer taught in school. Thankfully I made it out just before shop was deemed unnecessary. The shop was where you learned that with a small amount of concentration and patience, you could make something with your own hands that was as good or better than you could buy. Unfortunately, creators have now become consumers. Keep up the good work and hopefully I'll be looking for your Logan lathe instructional video series in the near future!
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly lost my account password. I appreciate any help you can offer me.
@Emory Saint I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm. Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
On the 10" atlas you can change the feed direction on the fly as it is made with a small bevel gear box but I an sure that you knew that. Thanks for the video!
I picked up a very early Atlas/Craftsman 12" at an estate sale. From the s/n it was made between 1936-39. There is no cross-feed and the lead screw is 5/8" not the 3/4" of later models. I have it running on a home built bench. I had to buy and fit chucks for the lathe, an 8" 3-jaw and a four jaw both from across the big pond. It has been a good machine and now runs alongside its little brother, an Atlas 6" that I dearly love for small jobs.
+M Sandford I'll PM you here in a minute with my email address. I'd love to see a few pictures of you 12" Atlas. I might be able to nail down the year for you. I have a 12F 54", mid 1937 (in the middle of 1937, they changed the design; the shape of the bed feet are a good indicator of year).
I got lucky to find 2. 12 inch atlas lathes with quick change gear boxes and both in great condition with no slop in bushings, and all gears in great condition and was happy to realize that the gears are steel in the boxes when I was worried about them being zmak like the gears on lathe itself, l guess that's why the gear box costs as much as lathe itself..
Thanks! A friend gave me a very worn but functional lathe nearly identical to this. All the nameplates are missing. It has one set of gears installed, and they work. I will search for a complete set to purchase. I have used the lathe manual feed, for making some transmission parts and I don't know how I got along without it for so long!One of these days I'll make a video about it.
on the gear end of your lathe to stop the wood chips getting in the gear teeth use a wine bottle cork or something similar.. thankyou sir for the video most interesting as always..
I have 6 atlas lathes with zmak gears and only 2 gears of all 6 show some wear and there the gears on forward and reverse tumblers, Hell the new lathes have nylon gears and they seem to do ok..I actually changed my drive gear from 48 to a 24 tooth nylon gear to slow down feed and also save the lathe if I was to crash ,been a year and it's still fine
Did some research and that, with a little conjecture, gives me a guess at the double key for the gears: reason one is strength. The metal is not real strong and the double key spreads the load ovr more material at the hub where the most stress is. Two is symmetry when casting, as the shrinkage around one keyway will lead to worse distortion than around two. A possible thisrd (wild guess) is that is helps keeep the gears centered better given the sloppy tolerance on the hub bushings used to mount the gears.
is the "spindle stud gear" the same as the "compound tumbler gear" (charts shown in parts 1 and 2 of the video in the last column of refer to one of the two)
Thanks for your efforts in making these informative videos. You should consider contacting Keith Rucker, of Vintage Machinery, and arranging to have your old manuals digitally scanned and made freely available to the public.
+Doug Rundell Mr. Pete will get to this soon I'm sure. In case you're just wondering how it's used, here's how. The round dial has four marks on it (like a compass, North, East, South, West). The round dial's HOUSING has one mark on top (think North). Once the change gears are setup (which sets the feed rate of the carriage), the cutter on the carriage (compound slide) is moved to the correct depth for the initial thread cut. Once one of the four marks on the dial come into alignment with the North mark on the dials housing, the carriage auto feed is engaged. After cutting threads to the desired length on the stock, you quickly dis-engage the auto feed. At this point, you back the compound slide back, RETRACT the carriage, move the compound slide back in (to the next thread cut depth), and wait for the marks on the round dial indicator to line up again. Once they line up ( like - - (but vertically)), you re-engage the auto feed and take the next cut making the thread deeper. To cut a good thread of decent depth, multiple passes on the same area often must be made. If you engage the auto feed at the correct time, using the lines on the round indicator, you wont cross-thread your work.
MrPete, I have an approximately 1895 E. A. Kinsey lathe (about 4 to 6 foot bed and around 16-20" swing) that I pulled out of a local box mill that closed this summer after 120 years, about how old my lathe is. It of course does not have a quick change tool box.m I have most of if not all of the change gears, but have no idea how to set the gears up to set different lead screw speeds. I was wondering if you had any advice or knew of anyone with any literature that would be of help with this lathe.
Mr. Pete, could you point me to any of your videos that would help me get my basket case 10F 54 reassembled and adjusted correctly. Also please post a link for you training videos. Santa-Wife needs some suggestions other than socks and underwear.
I do not think I have any video that would specifically help you with your basket case. Watch the following video promotion for my video courses. Search for it on RUclips. Cool autumn special video courses tubalcain Atlas bridgeport
I cannot believe it I had the same length I pulled it out the basement because I had to get a motor or sometime for was looking at it today got all kind of stuff with it what's it worth can somebody tell me
Hi, Mr. Pete. The cross slide ball crank on my 6" Atlas/Craftsman lathe was broken in shipment. Having a nice new lathe, I made a new crank. Otherwise, I've had NO Zamak breakage in 35 years of use. I did have a problem when I ya-ya'ed the lock pin hole in the bull gear a bit, due to an overly aggressive interrupted cut. I just tightened the setscrew in the gear's rim and went on. The replacement bull gear sits in my tool box until I, or my grandkids, need new belts. I'm guessing the change gears were double keyed to spread the load on the gears and their Zamak bushings. By the way, do you get much in the way of stretching noise from that belt, or is it drowned out by the characteristic Atlas "clatter"? I don't know, though. It's probably worth a little bit of noise to keep from having to remove the spindle and countershaft. Tom
GET THE BOTTOM OF MY JEANS WRAPPED UP????? Mr.P Let me tell ya ....If I somehow manage to get the bottom of my jeans caught in the lead screw of a lathe 3ft off the ground call the undertaker cause I got bigger problems 😂🤣 Joking aside, I’m farting around with a estate sale Atlas that I’m converting to a PMDC motor and Your videos have been very helpful thank you! No need to tell you to Buy🇺🇸 so ………ahreeevadarcheeeeeeee
Hello, I have a question that I cannot find the answer for. I have recently bought a 10" Logan lathe that did not come with a tailstock. My question is will any tailstock from the same size lathe work regardless of brand? Any answers are much appreciated!
Mr. Pete, I have a lathe just like that and I don't have the quick change gearbox. I'd like to have one if possible. I haven't started looking yet or anything. I wanted to ask you first what would be fair price if I were to find one. I can live without it but still, it would be nice to have it. Maybe you even have one to sell? Thanks and thanks for the vids. I watched all three on this topic and I'm working my way though all of them.
@@mrpete222 I don't mind the three for four hundred dollars. I'd gladly pay it but I'm not clear on why the new lead screw? Is that because it's likely too worn or worn differently than gears in the box? Thanks for replying.
another great video -- not only on topic, but because of all the other bits of info you always include! my apologies if i missed something... but why does the lead screw have a "key way" (or similar) running its entire length?
+mrpete222 The previous owner of my Atlas 10" did the same thing, installing a drum switch. Reversing the motor however tends to unthread my chuck, so I've always used the reverse gear combination for reversing the leadscrew. But I may be missing something??
+hankus253 The switch reverses the motor & hence the direction of rotation for the spindle. The leadscrew simply reverses the travel of the carriage (tool)
I'd like to buy a used lathe but many I see have been stored outdoors and the ways have rusted. Would it be worth the gas to go look at these or forget it until I see one that hasn't been in the weather?
@@mrpete222 I could see that, but I'm thinking more of the quick change gear box, I noticed even oiling as much as I do it's just slinging it all off and can't keep enough in it,,,and the mess it makes trying too is just too much,,,and not many chips can get in there anyway
@@mrpete222 I understand that , the gears are in quick change gear box and on left side of with cover,,,,I sprayed it anyway and I can't hear gears rattling now like before,, it's 50 years old and all the teeth look good,,,, but I'm sure they was having to oil the hell out of it as it was slinging off..
@@mrpete222 I understand that,, teeth show little wear , but I'm sure they was having to oil it as fast as it was being slung off,,l sprayed it anyway and I can't hear gears rattling now like before when engaged,,,l think if they had it back then they would have used it.
My Dad was a 4th generation tool and die maker. And when he passed away at a young age I received tools back from all the generation of machinists. I welded and fabricated at the time. After having picked up my fathers belongings I purchased a lathe knowing the value of what I had. Thanks to you for your instructions. Most my life I loved to learn things the hard way and you have taken some of the sting out of this learning process.
+Michael Leady Thanks for watching.
Thanks for this vid. I just inherited my grandfather's old Atlas. Your's is the first video showing how to use the controls. I'm familiar with 3d printing and CAD. This will be my first foray into manual machining.
👍
Thanks for making this series Mr. Pete. Really looking forward to watching each installment.
+MrGoosePit Thanks for watching
Looking forward to this series mrpete. It does not matter how basic the course as there are always people new to the craft. regards from the UK
+Gary C Thanks for watching
I think changing the lathe back to the way was is a great idea. Many people aren't lucky enough to have experienced the evolution of the lathe and have a knowledge gap. It may not seem important but it is important for a total understanding of how things work.
+pbooth001 Thanks for watching
Great video as all of yours are. What I would really love to see is setting up the quick change gear box to cut metric threads. Thanks for sharing.
+cerberus Thanks for watching
Thanks for the tip on cleaning the lead screw. I have tried the string method and won’t do it again. The last time I cleaned it, I removed it, soaked it in degreaser and then steam cleaned it. I don’t know if it was a good idea or not but it looks brand new now! I used to grease it but I like your idea of using oil better. Thanks again.
Thank you for this! Just picked up a similar Atlas and its been exceedingly difficult to find resource material, this is a huge help
👍
That is good info to know on the one lead screw bracket being designed to break away. I didn't know that saved me from other damage when I accidentally crashed my 10 inch Craftsman.
I'll see you up at Arnfest in a couple weeks.Ryan
+ILGopher Yes
I just bought this exact lathe and am really excited to learn how to use it. I also purchased the How to run an Atlas Craftsman Lathe Vols 1 2 3 4 Great stuff!
+William Holland Thanks for watching . Hope you like the atlas course
Where did you buy these books? I'm looking myself .
Your so enjoyable to listen to. Makes me think of James Sturett
wonderful video!! I really like the backdrop and the lighting you did this time.
+Tristan Smith Thanks--16 more coming soon
Amazing! I always learn something. BTW, those ZAMAK gears will break if leave the reversing lever in neutral and suddenly bump it to engage the gears. Don't ask how I know. Unless I am threaading, I take the spindale stud gear off. I don't think mine has the locking device the one shown does.
Man I wish I had this video series about a month or two ago when I bought my Atlas. Mine did NOT come with the quick change gear box (or any gears for that matter! Was missing a lot of parts) And I had to do a lot of research on which parts I was missing and how to install the quick change gear box. I had to fabricate the template plate to drill the hole in the head stock and everything. It is all up and running now and I love it!
+MattsMotorz Thanks for watching
Excellent video and I look forward to this series! Just finished my home foundry and I am watching Craigslist for a Logan with QC gears. I find it hard to believe shop skills are no longer taught in school. Thankfully I made it out just before shop was deemed unnecessary. The shop was where you learned that with a small amount of concentration and patience, you could make something with your own hands that was as good or better than you could buy. Unfortunately, creators have now become consumers. Keep up the good work and hopefully I'll be looking for your Logan lathe instructional video series in the near future!
+Brian Oltrogge Thanks for watching
sorry to be so offtopic but does any of you know of a method to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly lost my account password. I appreciate any help you can offer me.
@Lochlan Abdullah instablaster =)
@Emory Saint I really appreciate your reply. I found the site thru google and I'm in the hacking process atm.
Seems to take quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Emory Saint it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I am so happy!
Thank you so much you saved my account !
On the 10" atlas you can change the feed direction on the fly as it is made with a small bevel gear box but I an sure that you knew that. Thanks for the video!
+madmodifier Thanks for watching-never used one with that little gearbox
I picked up a very early Atlas/Craftsman 12" at an estate sale. From the s/n it was made between 1936-39. There is no cross-feed and the lead screw is 5/8" not the 3/4" of later models. I have it running on a home built bench. I had to buy and fit chucks for the lathe, an 8" 3-jaw and a four jaw both from across the big pond. It has been a good machine and now runs alongside its little brother, an Atlas 6" that I dearly love for small jobs.
+M Sandford Thanks fo0r watching--I'm not familiar with that older model
+M Sandford I'll PM you here in a minute with my email address. I'd love to see a few pictures of you 12" Atlas. I might be able to nail down the year for you. I have a 12F 54", mid 1937 (in the middle of 1937, they changed the design; the shape of the bed feet are a good indicator of year).
I got lucky to find 2. 12 inch atlas lathes with quick change gear boxes and both in great condition with no slop in bushings, and all gears in great condition and was happy to realize that the gears are steel in the boxes when I was worried about them being zmak like the gears on lathe itself, l guess that's why the gear box costs as much as lathe itself..
Thanks!
A friend gave me a very worn but functional lathe nearly identical to this. All the nameplates are missing. It has one set of gears installed, and they work. I will search for a complete set to purchase.
I have used the lathe manual feed, for making some transmission parts and I don't know how I got along without it for so long!One of these days I'll make a video about it.
+davida1hiwaaynet Thanks for watching--sounds like its still a good lathe
Thank you Mr. Peterson
+Roy Lucas Thanks for watching
on the gear end of your lathe to stop the wood chips getting in the gear teeth use a wine bottle cork or something similar.. thankyou sir for the video most interesting as always..
+Kevin Willis good idea
your welcome..
I have 6 atlas lathes with zmak gears and only 2 gears of all 6 show some wear and there the gears on forward and reverse tumblers, Hell the new lathes have nylon gears and they seem to do ok..I actually changed my drive gear from 48 to a 24 tooth nylon gear to slow down feed and also save the lathe if I was to crash ,been a year and it's still fine
Did some research and that, with a little conjecture, gives me a guess at the double key for the gears: reason one is strength. The metal is not real strong and the double key spreads the load ovr more material at the hub where the most stress is. Two is symmetry when casting, as the shrinkage around one keyway will lead to worse distortion than around two. A possible thisrd (wild guess) is that is helps keeep the gears centered better given the sloppy tolerance on the hub bushings used to mount the gears.
Love your videos
👍👍
I have the same 12 inch lathe bought cross slide nut on Ebay new manufacture I use a paper bag to adjust the space between the gears or gear backlash
+1995dresser Thanks--thats a good idea
is the "spindle stud gear" the same as the "compound tumbler gear" (charts shown in parts 1 and 2 of the video in the last column of refer to one of the two)
Also note that the 16DP gears with two keyways are a catalog item from Boston, as are hub bushings.
+john john Thanks-good to know
Thanks for your efforts in making these informative videos.
You should consider contacting Keith Rucker, of Vintage Machinery, and arranging to have your old manuals digitally scanned and made freely available to the public.
+Morris Gallo Thanks-the atlas book is copyrighted
Please talk about the little dial on the right side of the carriage that I've seen people use to start a threading operation.
+Doug Rundell Mr. Pete will get to this soon I'm sure. In case you're just wondering how it's used, here's how.
The round dial has four marks on it (like a compass, North, East, South, West). The round dial's HOUSING has one mark on top (think North). Once the change gears are setup (which sets the feed rate of the carriage), the cutter on the carriage (compound slide) is moved to the correct depth for the initial thread cut. Once one of the four marks on the dial come into alignment with the North mark on the dials housing, the carriage auto feed is engaged. After cutting threads to the desired length on the stock, you quickly dis-engage the auto feed. At this point, you back the compound slide back, RETRACT the carriage, move the compound slide back in (to the next thread cut depth), and wait for the marks on the round dial indicator to line up again. Once they line up ( like - - (but vertically)), you re-engage the auto feed and take the next cut making the thread deeper.
To cut a good thread of decent depth, multiple passes on the same area often must be made. If you engage the auto feed at the correct time, using the lines on the round indicator, you wont cross-thread your work.
+Doug Rundell Thanks for watching
Haha, at my age the only way I get my shoe close to the lead screw, the lathe would have to be on the floor, lol.
lol
Mr Pete I have a 10" Atlas without the lever that takes the gear train out of gear. Do you go over that model?
Will these change gear tutorials work just the same on the atlas 618? Maybe you said something about that and I missed it.
MrPete, I have an approximately 1895 E. A. Kinsey lathe (about 4 to 6 foot bed and around 16-20" swing) that I pulled out of a local box mill that closed this summer after 120 years, about how old my lathe is. It of course does not have a quick change tool box.m I have most of if not all of the change gears, but have no idea how to set the gears up to set different lead screw speeds. I was wondering if you had any advice or knew of anyone with any literature that would be of help with this lathe.
Mr. Pete, could you point me to any of your videos that would help me get my basket case 10F 54 reassembled and adjusted correctly. Also please post a link for you training videos. Santa-Wife needs some suggestions other than socks and underwear.
I do not think I have any video that would specifically help you with your basket case.
Watch the following video promotion for my video courses. Search for it on RUclips.
Cool autumn special video courses tubalcain Atlas bridgeport
I cannot believe it I had the same length I pulled it out the basement because I had to get a motor or sometime for was looking at it today got all kind of stuff with it what's it worth can somebody tell me
Hi, Mr. Pete.
The cross slide ball crank on my 6" Atlas/Craftsman lathe was broken in shipment. Having a nice new lathe, I made a new crank. Otherwise, I've had NO Zamak breakage in 35 years of use. I did have a problem when I ya-ya'ed the lock pin hole in the bull gear a bit, due to an overly aggressive interrupted cut. I just tightened the setscrew in the gear's rim and went on. The replacement bull gear sits in my tool box until I, or my grandkids, need new belts.
I'm guessing the change gears were double keyed to spread the load on the gears and their Zamak bushings.
By the way, do you get much in the way of stretching noise from that belt, or is it drowned out by the characteristic Atlas "clatter"? I don't know, though. It's probably worth a little bit of noise to keep from having to remove the spindle and countershaft.
Tom
+awhs1964 The zamac is pretty durable. The lathe is so noisy-cannot hear the belt
In powered feeding, can the cross feed be "crashed" or does it automatically disengage at the end of the travel?
+deemstyle Thanks for watching--cannot crash
GET THE BOTTOM OF MY JEANS WRAPPED UP????? Mr.P Let me tell ya ....If I somehow manage to get the bottom of my jeans caught in the lead screw of a lathe 3ft off the ground call the undertaker cause I got bigger problems 😂🤣
Joking aside, I’m farting around with a estate sale Atlas that I’m converting to a PMDC motor and Your videos have been very helpful thank you!
No need to tell you to Buy🇺🇸 so ………ahreeevadarcheeeeeeee
Thank you,👍👍
Hello, I have a question that I cannot find the answer for. I have recently bought a 10" Logan lathe that did not come with a tailstock. My question is will any tailstock from the same size lathe work regardless of brand? Any answers are much appreciated!
+Shaun Work NO!--it must be same make, same model
Mr. Pete, I have a lathe just like that and I don't have the quick change gearbox. I'd like to have one if possible. I haven't started looking yet or anything. I wanted to ask you first what would be fair price if I were to find one. I can live without it but still, it would be nice to have it. Maybe you even have one to sell? Thanks and thanks for the vids. I watched all three on this topic and I'm working my way though all of them.
You can expect to spend three or $400 for that gearbox. And you usually need a new lead screw as well
@@mrpete222 I don't mind the three for four hundred dollars. I'd gladly pay it but I'm not clear on why the new lead screw? Is that because it's likely too worn or worn differently than gears in the box? Thanks for replying.
Did the boys take out their pocket knives and cut themselves free! Different time back then, we all carried a sharp pocket knife.
I still do
Me too!
another great video -- not only on topic, but because of all the other bits of info you always include!
my apologies if i missed something... but why does the lead screw have a "key way" (or similar) running its entire length?
+KevCarrico Thanks-I will get to that.
I just bought a Craftsman lathe 101.214000. I see a lot of lathes 101.xxxx does anyone know what the difference between the numbers is?
I do not
I noticed when turning the lathe On or Off, the switch on the lathes' case remained Off. Why did they abandon the ON/OFF switch as manufactured?
+hankus253 A reversing switch was installed
+mrpete222 The previous owner of my Atlas 10" did the same thing, installing a drum switch. Reversing the motor however tends to unthread my chuck, so I've always used the reverse gear combination for reversing the leadscrew. But I may be missing something??
+hankus253 The switch reverses the motor & hence the direction of rotation for the spindle. The leadscrew simply reverses the travel of the carriage (tool)
I'd like to buy a used lathe but many I see have been stored outdoors and the ways have rusted. Would it be worth the gas to go look at these or forget it until I see one that hasn't been in the weather?
+oldiron1223 Forget it--if its been outside in the elements
Thanks. Some people are very proud of their trash.
Nice video...thank you..
Should I use lucas red n tacky on my open gears in lathe?
Some people say that that kind of oil attracts the chips
@@mrpete222 I could see that, but I'm thinking more of the quick change gear box, I noticed even oiling as much as I do it's just slinging it all off and can't keep enough in it,,,and the mess it makes trying too is just too much,,,and not many chips can get in there anyway
@@mrpete222 I understand that , the gears are in quick change gear box and on left side of with cover,,,,I sprayed it anyway and I can't hear gears rattling now like before,, it's 50 years old and all the teeth look good,,,, but I'm sure they was having to oil the hell out of it as it was slinging off..
@@mrpete222 I understand that,, teeth show little wear , but I'm sure they was having to oil it as fast as it was being slung off,,l sprayed it anyway and I can't hear gears rattling now like before when engaged,,,l think if they had it back then they would have used it.
Do you want to sell your quick change gear box
what did you pay for it I have one for sale