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Ford 302: Setting the timing without timing marks
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- Опубликовано: 8 авг 2024
- Setting the timing without timing marks! When I bought my 1975 Classic Ford Bronco, the 302 small block engine didn't have a timing pointer and the timing marks were really difficult to see. So today I'm going to install a new timing pointer and some MSD timing tape.
I got the timing pointer from Toms Bronco Parts: tomsoffroad.com/parts/66-77-f...
I got the timing tape from Amazon: amzn.to/2eyGHeL
I also used, the Top Dead Center Indicator: amzn.to/2vFaw8w
And, the Piston Stop: amzn.to/2vZCMOz
Setting the timing on a Ford 302:
2:10 - Install new timing pointer onto my Ford 302 small block
3:35 - Use Top Dead Center indicator and rotate the engine to determine when the engine reaches TDC.
5:09 - Marked the harmonic balancer, then use the piston stop and rotated the engine until the piston stop stopped the movement of the piston. Then marked my harmonic balancer again.
5:44 - Find the center of these two marks, and that is top dead center.
7:32 - Apply new timing tape to my harmonic balancer.
8:30 - Rotate engine to 10 degrees before TDC.
After all of this, I adjusted my distributor to match, and I was done!
In my next video, I will be adjusting the timing to run accurately with the FiTech Go Street 600 EFI system.
Buy the FiTech here: amzn.to/2WZBRPv
*NOTE: If you buy a FiTech from Amazon, buy it from FITech, not a third party or FiTech will not be under warranty if something goes wrong*
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Good vid. Getting ready to do an entire plugs, wires, and distributor replacement on my 88 once it stops raining like crazy.
Great video! Very clear explanation for setting top dead center.
+Mike Palermo thank you!
Cool! I have had my fitech for a year now and love it, but I am not sure about my number settings and since I have a 302 just like yours I will wait for your next video and hope you will explain all the numbers that needed input. Mine is still running too rich. Thanks.
+pat lucas sounds good! Mine was running to right and I set the AFR setting to 14.5 and leaned it out and passed emissions. Now I'm running at about 13.6
Great video! Top-shelf production
+BroncoSolid thanks man!
Thank You sooooo much for this video because my 1966 ford mustang with a 302 did not come with a timing pin and purchased everything you did:)
Awesome!
Hi Good video,What model of MSD coil and distribuitor are you using for the 302 engine?
Is the white line that was edged in on the harmonic balancer is that for finding out the stock ignition timing?
If not can someone tell me I’m curious
You never fail to impress!
+Anthony Parigi haha!
Ok. On my 460 I pulled the crank pulley and the Harmonic Balancer but left the gears and chain in place . I then rotated the engine with a wrench to TDC compression stroke on #1 cylinder and verified dizzy rotor was pointed and the #1 spark plug wire . I then removed the timing chain and gears . So when I put the new straight up timing gear set in Do I need to mark TDC on the New Balancer (broke mine) and then install the piston stop at TDC and rotate engine to TDC exhaust stroke and mark the balancer again , Then measure the distance between the two marks . Am I going about this correctly???
Cool video! I'm in the middle of the exact same thing on my '75
+Daniel Sypriano nice!!!
Where did you buy the tdc tool used in the video (not the tdc stop, I'm talking about the first tool used).
This one? Top Dead Center Indicator: amzn.to/2vFaw8w
Great video!
You could only explain which way you rotate the engine for each tool in a clockwise direction! Top dead center tool and Piston tool.
I painted my TDC and timming marks with white paint and a toothpick in contrast to black pully on crankcase shows good when using timming light im set at 4 deg before TDC
That’s a great idea!
I use a remote momentary switch across the Starter solenoid. Pull the coil wire, and rotate the motor as needed using the starter. I wouldn't do this if there was a tool screwed into the cylinder though. That would end badly.
M
Jon. Another good video. Two questions please. Innovative Products makes a 14mm to 18mm adapter to fit the TDC indicator to 18mm spark plug hole found on SB Fords. Didn’t see it in video. Did you use the adapter?
I have yet to find a really good video on how to use the piston stop. It is an 18mm threaded hollow sleeve with an adjustable inner bolt aka piston stop. So how do you know you have the stop adjusted to true TDC piston stop depth? It doesn’t self adjust? I just don’t understand how it is accurate w/o pulling the valve covers looking at the valve rockers, or the heads and using a deck plate?
Any helpful comment is appreciated.
He tells you at 5 :55
Whiskey 1 Mantis . I understand the basics. I am guessing you have to rely on TDC tool to find piston top of compression stroke? Then adjust piston stop to correct depth and lock it out? Then rotate crack CCW until it stops again? Mark harmonic balancer and proceed? Right.
Correct
Wonderful! Thank you.
Can anybody help me please. I got a Ford F-100 1972. I doesn't start. I noticed that the distributor is a little bit loose. Is it ok or should it be very tight? Is it possible that it doesn't start because of the distributor. What are the symptoms when a truck is not timed ver well?
Sorry if those are a lot of questions. Thank you!
Vaccume port on distributor usually is pointing almost at 5oclock.. stare with it there .start it then hv someone hold out at hig idle while you slowly rotate the distributor it should smooth out when you get close.. then shut it off and see if it starts quick or drags
So for the FiTech unit you are setting both the engine physical timing and the adjustable rotor to ten degrees?
No, I’m setting the engine to 0, adjusting the rotor to 10, then telling the fitech where the timing is (10 degrees)
Copy just making sure...Thanks! I discovered an interesting take from another youtuber for finding the compression stroke when one is completely lost. Take one of those anti foul plug cases or a hollowed out plug and stick a balloon on it. Hand crank or bump the starter till it inflates...Hello compression stroke. Just thought I would share as it blew my mind.
Genius!!! Thanks for sharing I love that idea.
Hi John, this is the first time I write you a comment. My name is Fabian and I live in Costa Rica. I just bought a 1966 Ford Bronco and I trying to restore this car all by myself. Your channel is great and I´m watching all videos to learn a lot of stuff.
I got a question about finding the TDC using the piston stop. After making both marks on the harmonic balancer and marked teh half between them, this mark will be my TDC, but you should take this mark to the timing pointer (moving the engine or the harmonic balancer) to ensure that the engine is in TDC, am I right?
Correct! Rotate the engine so the harmonic balancer lines up with the timing pointer and then your engine will be at TDC
so what is the actual degrees? 0 or 10??
Also, why would top dead center ever land somewhere other than '0' on the harmonic balancer?
They have a rubber isolator, they spin sometimes. Always best to buy a new balancer when doing a teardown and rebuild.
Timing chain could have some wear in it. Just saying.
Great as always.
The engine turns clockwise right?
+Chuckles yeah, engine spins clockwise, rotor in the distributor spins counter clockwise.
If you are standing in front of the engine , YES.
Does this work on 351 windsors as well?
I think so but I don’t have any experience with the 351
Yes. They have the same firing order too.
No 351does not have the same firing order as 302/289 a B ore E camshaft will change the 302/289 firing order into a 351 firing order
How big is the big nut that turns the motor?
I believe it’s 15/16ths
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco Yep, it is. Thanks. Timing is the next task!
What distributor is that?
MSD Pro Billet
So that top dead center indicator didnt fit my 289 engine
Strange!
Any plans on doing headers ?
I did! They are great! I went with long tube, if I did it again I would try shorty headers
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco lol I did shorties and will probably go long tube next time
Haha! Well there you go 😂
Excellent vid, thanks a lot !
cool
my 86 f150 EFI wont start at all, i just bought it for basically nothing.. new distributor is in it, does the timing have to be set in order for it to start at all? its getting spark and fuel to the fuel rails
Yeah timing has to be just right on those engines
you need to get a new harmonic balancer look how cracked out it is !!!
Yeah, that’s on the list!
i had a car that shook when running and finally came apart, broke my timing cover. that was a job !!!
Oh man! I need to get on that then. My engine shakes pretty good when running
Would like to know if replacing harmonic balancer helps your engine. Mine does it but I think it's the timing. Throw another part at it.
This is why Honda motors are so reliable, Honda has mastered the art of removing vibration.
Get a Cam swap on a 2000 Ford Explorer with 5.0 and now have timing problems
Probably different firing order
You're probably having electronic control problems.
Could have went over the timing marks with some sand paper to see them better.
Truth 👆🏼
hey heres a fluid dampener !!
yakima.craigslist.org/pts/d/302-ford-parts/6633469717.html
Wouldn't a long screwdriver do? Just set the timing with a tach and peak it and back it off a little for most performance.
1:03 haha.. Kid
+JeepSolid haha! Kid walking around in just her diaper 🙄
I notice no mechanical fuel pump
Nope, frame mounted fuel pump
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco im trying to do that on my 74 f100 but I'm not sure if it works or if any pump is reliable. I have to do more research ..i heard you have to install a fuel pressure gage to keep an eye of pump pressure
Fuel pressure regulator for sure. Are you just running to your carb or a tbi?
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco carb. Only
@@carlitosducoing8507 I have a 73 f100, as long as it's a mechanical pump it's pretty reliable. I wouldn't worry too much about a fuel pressure gauge unless you really feel like it.
I don't understand the 10 degree part. Can someone explain why you would set 10 degree from top dead center? Never have set timing before. Thanks
+Heath Hamby top dead center is when the coil will fire the spark at the peak of the pistons movement. But, the engine is spinning so fast you want the spark to hit before top dead center so it can ignite the fuel and push the piston back down. As your RPM’s go up, you want the spark coming sooner and sooner. There’s a lot of opinions on what degree you want the spark igniting the fuel, but really it depends on what your engine likes the most. I used 10 degrees because it was an easy reference point. Setting your engine at top dead center gives you an accurate reading of how much advance you are running when making your adjustments. Does that make any sense 😬
It sure does. Thanks for the explanation. I just bought a 1970 Bronco that's in very good original shape. Just needs a few mechanical adjustments. Thanks for all the great videos. I'm learning a lot of great info on the Bronco thanks to your videos.
+Heath Hamby awesome!
Ok 🤔 but you didn't turn on the engine to prove that you set the timing right 🤷♂️🤦♂️, anyone can make a video without a final results🤷♂️
That’s so true! I get in a hurry sometimes and don’t end up showing the results 😂
Loose the goochi shoes
😂😂 they are Vans
You made a false title and made timing marks.
* disliked *
Haha! You mean you misunderstood the title.
@@NashvilleEarlyBronco most likely. * undisliked *
I was expecting something about compression stroke finding with a finger and setting it there or something like that .
True, I didn't spend much time on that. I used the top dead center tool instead around the 3:12 mark
Lmao, WOW! Top dead center was on the 0 on the balancer!?!? How in the world could that be??? Oooooh.. Because it's designed that way... It's on the crank with a key and 0 is always TDC... Stop making how-tos if you don't know what you're doing. Ty
Thanks for the suggestion, I’ll put it in my suggestion box