Hey man, I know this was posted 4 years ago, but my son and I have been building a 69 mustang, with a 289 out of a 65. I haven't been able to get the damn distributor dialed in until your video. Every other video left me with more questions than answers. Found your video last night, and our project started for the first time last night. Thanks man!
Converted my 1971 Mustang Coupe from a 2 barrel intake to a 4 barrel and forgot to set the timing to TDC before removing things. Was backfiring and sputtering until my brother and I found this video, got it running properly in 30 minutes thanks to you! AWESOME!
Omg!!!! Very simple and to the point. A co worker actually sent me this video knowing that I was having trouble starting my car. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you a million.
I was going to say man you should be a professor of car engines because you explain so well and clearly, but then you said in class and I was like ok, makes perfect sense. He is a teacher after all.
Thanks a bunch for making this video!! As a mechanically inclined guy with little Automotive experience this was perfect!! And I didn’t need a set of fancy tools. :)
Thanks for the refresher course, I remembered the steps, But forgot the position on the rotor, You made it straight to the point without all the selling products the way I like it, Really simple.
Yes, good video.👍👍 Manually set the crank and then tune the cap right too it with the pen light on Coil negative to battery positive . 5:55 Tap sliping the oil pump around actually works too. You just got to remember to return to your mark. I did a ford 460 today the exact same way Exquisite video knowledge for all ol'fords, good job
Thanks so much for showing how you had to fiddle with it to get it to seat completely. I had a hard time getting mine to seat, and now I understand why.
Great video! 4:15 instead of playing with it, just bump the starter once and it'll drop right down. Just read that tip in my '66 service manual and it worked perfect!
Doing that will also move the timing off 10° before TDC. You'll notice in the video after he gets it on the compression stroke and sets it at the 10° mark, the engine doesn't rotate again until they start it. The oil pump is also driven off the distributor, so bumping the engine doesn't make the oil shaft spin, but instead the cam gear rotates. The idea he shows in the video is to force the oil pump to rotate to match the rest of the engine, not vice-versa.
Thanks. My brother changed some stuff on my car due to no start condition turned out to be a fusable link wire. He changed everything cause he was helping. So your video helped me a lot. I'm a painter not a mechanic lol.
Thanks. Not sure just how to use every bit of everything you did, but I have done everything except put a light to it which seems key. My 65 289 is a beast but won't stay running. I will try what I can remember.
Outstanding! thanks you I didn't know about the the cylinder numbers stamped. Question could the crank shaft be moved to get the distributor to drop in vice stabbing it over and over? Again thanks a lot learn something new!
You prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..? I stupidly forgot the password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Ernest Solomon i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now. I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Great Video have a 64 Mustang over in the UK and wanted to check the timing as it developed a misfire hard to start and popping through the carb. Yet to try it but great detailed video 👍🏼
Excellent explanation. Thank you! One question: how tie my distributor should be? I got a Ford F-100 1972 and the distributor is a little bit loose. Btw, it doesn't start. I guess because it is not timed, maybe? Thanks for your help.
I know this vid has been out for a while. Couple of questions. If you dont set the initial timing by use of the damper, could you get the "12" degrees of timing by turning" advancing" the timing at the distributer? Assuming there is enough room to turn it far enough. Secondly, does it matter where the rotor is pointing as long as you use that spot on the cap for your number 1 cylinder? Btw, very informative video!
Thanks for this. I don't work on Fords. I'm a GM man. Working on a 289 that someone screwed up putting the dist in. Vacuum advance is hitting the thermostat housing and it needs to go even more to time it.
Hey Mark, I have a 351 windsor efi and timing is throwing me off! When I get #1 on compression my timing mark is is 10 degrees atdc #1 on the dizzy is lined up perfect! But when I check this thing with a timing light its 16 to 20 atdc! The more I advance toward 10 btdc it starts to idle way to hi and my headers start to glow red hot quick after start up! When I have it set to where the motor seems happy header elbows dont get as hot but still getting red at at collection of tubes close to the shortie flange were it hooks up to exhaust especially when I raise the RPMs tubes will heat back up! Im lost!
Mark, Great video. I have a question. I went through your process on my 70 Boss 302 with a dual point distributor. The light on my test light was dimly lite all the time and when the points opened I got a bright light on the test light. I am wondering why I have a constant dim light all the time? Does it have something to do with the dual points? Thanks
shelbygt350r I have a 70 Boss 302 in my F-150. I don’t think my distributer has dual points though. The timing is terrible right now, and I’m hoping this video helps. I don’t know if I have any numbers or pointer though. We’ll find out today!
Hello sir, great video!! I have a 1969 f100 v8 I get zero clicks or any spark when I turn the key. I have checked coil, solenoid starter and distributor for power, Which they have. The distributor has points eliminator. Does the timing work the same way on this vehicle once I replace the distributor
Getting recommendations for time in the same engine without a vacuum advance. It’s locked out. We have it turned that way and I wanted to know if I can get all out of it get.
So where do I set my marks if there is no numbers of degree? It says TDC and then slashes after but no numbers? Love the video extremely informative but just a little stuck with this. Thanks for your time.
Hi mark,I've got a 1998 Nissan patrol tb45, I'm trying to find out where the timing marks are on the harmonic balancer, because there are 4 marks on it?
Pretty nice to bring back stuff I learned in automotive school. I know this distributor had points. With the turning of the unit to get the light off, on a point less distributor do that light matter?
I see what he's trying to do it's a good way of finding top TC of the compression stroke if you go past the timing mark make sure you turn it back a little bit farther and then turn it back to where you want the timing to be set which 10° is pretty good then when you put the distributor in and the rotor don't line up it's no big deal just estimate how much farther the rotors going to turn turn it back to the desired amount and all you do is rotate the engine backwards until the distributor falls into place then rotate it back to 10° and see if her roller lines up to where it should be normally the rotor doesn't go straight to the rear but a little bit to your right which is the left side of the engine then all you have to do watch your points turn the distributor until the points just start to open and you're right on top and where you want the timing mark to be I've done many engines many and sometimes I don't even have to move distributor when I put the timing light on it. PS I learned a lot of tricks from working on VW just valves set and timing..
Please help! My uncle and I put a 302 in my 66 mustang. Everything was top dead center, distributer on 1 (mine ignition 1 doesn't point straight back like yours more back right) never did the 10 or 12 degree thing or the light test/timing gun. It starts, needs a new carb, and has a misfire. Do I have to redue the timing? The distributor? If my timing is off would that cause my car to shake when trying to accelerate? Car shakes really bad when going 35 or is that do to the carb/possible misfire? Thank you!!!!!
hopefully this finds you, i have followed this video multiple times. we have a 68 Mustang 289. when doing the test light method i wasn't able to get the light to shut off, only slightly dimmer. i set the point gap correctly. in fact the point is new.. any help would be great
hello mark will this timing setting work on my big block ford 460 I got the same firing order and same distributor except it's a duraspark but same cap with number 1 mark on it ....I'm having issues with my truck timing setting
I have a 79 Lincoln continental 4.0 6.6 L. Could you please walk me through how to do the top dead center procedure on a distributor without points. I believe my distributor is an electronic distributor
Everything is good and enjoyable! I have never interacted with such old people - V8, but I have marks on the crankshaft pulley in a different place. motor 1966
Instead of fiddling around trying to get it to drop in the oil pump shaft just turn the crank until it drops down then turn the crank back to 10 degrees, so much easier.
Definitely an early 289 before the government regulated PCV system. Note the breather tube sticking up from the timing cover. It stands for independence! Love it!
Mark, I also have watched your video numerous times. My problem is the tang on the oil pump drops over to one side which does not allow the distributor to drop down even if it may be aligned. I’ve attempted to pack assembly lube around it but once the shaft touches it pushes it over. I’m leery of bumping the engine in fear of loosing the 12 bdc. Have you ever witnessed this? Karl - Portland
I’m suspecting the oil pump shaft is not seated with the pump. Unfortunately the keeper is positioned to allow that to happen but won’t allow removal fro the top.
Oh wow this is amazing. Would this timing procedure apply to a 1973 302? My engine is shaking like crazy during idle, back fires, and dies as soon as its placed in gear.
This would be the same way you do an older 302 wouldn't it? I have a 68 cougar with the 302 that I need to set the timing on and it'll be my first time just trying to figure it out
Hi Mr. Lennon, what is the purpose of finding tdc and then advancing the balancer 10 degrees? What would be the consequence of installing the distributor on the tdc mark on the balancer ? Thanks for any input.
When doing static timing as I showed in the video you have to advance the crank to the timing specification of the engine. Setting it on TDC would give you very low power as It there would not be time for the gas to expand in the cylinder before forcing the piston down.
I have been fighting my 1966 289 4v for 3 weeks. I've had it started twice, but it idles fast 1400rpm and I can't slow it down. I've replaced the power valve that I noticed was leaking. I can get it to cough and sputter when I preset the timing to be fully open on the distributor cam while at TDC. I present the timing to 6 degrees as you showed in the video just this morning, but no luck. to get it there, I had to set the distributor on a different (more advanced) tooth on the cam gear. I checked and I have spark. I checked I was on the compression stroke. I have had 2 carb shops tell me that the Autolite 4100 carb is working fine and settings are correct. Any suggestion what to try? BTW, when I set the distrib on different tooth, I rotate the crank by hand and it will drop in place within a 90 degree rotation, then I crank it back to my timing setting. Works great, no banging the distrub up and down.
I understood everything until I saw that number 1 on the distributor cap. It through me off only because I always see it pointed at the number one cylinder and not have it on the cap. I know that the wire on that number one cylinder was placed at the number one spark plug so I know it's correct. I just have never seen it done that way and I always said to my self why must it be pointed at the number one cylinder when no matter where it's pointed if you're on compression of the number one and connect the wire to it, number one can be started anywhere. Am I correct in that understanding ?
Hey man, I know this was posted 4 years ago, but my son and I have been building a 69 mustang, with a 289 out of a 65. I haven't been able to get the damn distributor dialed in until your video. Every other video left me with more questions than answers. Found your video last night, and our project started for the first time last night. Thanks man!
Awesome!
This is wholesome
Set point gap before setting static timeing.
This is the most direct, easy to understand videos on this subject. You have a good way of clearly communicating. Thanks, you should do more!
I’ve never seen that method but damn that was cool. I’ve just never thought about it that way… It makes perfect sense though. Thanks for sharing.
Converted my 1971 Mustang Coupe from a 2 barrel intake to a 4 barrel and forgot to set the timing to TDC before removing things.
Was backfiring and sputtering until my brother and I found this video, got it running properly in 30 minutes thanks to you! AWESOME!
Perfect video, thank you so much for the excellent explanation on Ford SB timing and ignition.Thanks to you I finally got my 302 running.
This is by far the best video to understand timing in a small block ford.
I totally agree!
Helped a lot with timing of my 289 1965 in the Czech Republic. Running well. Many thanks 😉
This is no doubt the best form of teaching I have seen on distributor timing. A+
Omg!!!! Very simple and to the point. A co worker actually sent me this video knowing that I was having trouble starting my car. This is exactly what I needed. Thank you a million.
This video really cleared up my confusion when setting my timing. Best and clearest video on this I found so far.
Thank you for this video, direct and straight to the point, perfect
Great Video!! thanks for posting and sharing your experiences.
I was going to say man you should be a professor of car engines because you explain so well and clearly, but then you said in class and I was like ok, makes perfect sense. He is a teacher after all.
Thanks a bunch for making this video!! As a mechanically inclined guy with little Automotive experience this was perfect!! And I didn’t need a set of fancy tools. :)
This video helped me so much. I finally got my Boss 302 started and timed and I did it on almost the first try! Thanks you!
Thank you. I remember replacing the distributor on a 302 and having a heck of a time getting it installed.
Thanks for the refresher course, I remembered the steps, But forgot the position on the rotor, You made it straight to the point without all the selling products the way I like it, Really simple.
Yes, good video.👍👍
Manually set the crank and then tune the cap right too it with the pen light on Coil negative to battery positive .
5:55
Tap sliping the oil pump around actually works too.
You just got to remember to return to your mark.
I did a ford 460 today the exact same way
Exquisite video knowledge for all ol'fords, good job
Thanks so much for showing how you had to fiddle with it to get it to seat completely. I had a hard time getting mine to seat, and now I understand why.
Best how to video ever! Thanks.
Yeah buddy good job showing use how to do it! Super easy and simple! Great job again, thank you so much!!!!!!!
thank you! This is the best video on setting the timing!
I've watched this a dozen times and you are a genius!
Best tuning video I’ve watched!
thanks for the video. never seen timing done that way.very helpfull !
Great video! 4:15 instead of playing with it, just bump the starter once and it'll drop right down. Just read that tip in my '66 service manual and it worked perfect!
Good idea just earth it out yeah
Doing that will also move the timing off 10° before TDC.
You'll notice in the video after he gets it on the compression stroke and sets it at the 10° mark, the engine doesn't rotate again until they start it.
The oil pump is also driven off the distributor, so bumping the engine doesn't make the oil shaft spin, but instead the cam gear rotates. The idea he shows in the video is to force the oil pump to rotate to match the rest of the engine, not vice-versa.
Thanks. My brother changed some stuff on my car due to no start condition turned out to be a fusable link wire. He changed everything cause he was helping. So your video helped me a lot. I'm a painter not a mechanic lol.
Thank You Sir! Brought my ‘72 Bronco back to life!! ;-D
I3adme awesome!
simple, straight, understandable. Thanks for posting!
Great instruction. Right to the point. Thank you.
You are the Man......................Perfect!
Excellent!! Best one ive seen on timeing
Never seen anyone set timing like that. Thanks for the tip.
Excellent video thank you
Thanks. Not sure just how to use every bit of everything you did, but I have done everything except put a light to it which seems key. My 65 289 is a beast but won't stay running. I will try what I can remember.
Wow learnt a lot from this. Thanks
Excellent video, thanks.
Best video on you tube about this subject by far.
I'm excited to try this my self. Thank you
Outstanding! thanks you I didn't know about the the cylinder numbers stamped. Question could the crank shaft be moved to get the distributor to drop in vice stabbing it over and over? Again thanks a lot learn something new!
Awesome 👌...
Thank you for making this Video...
Thank you very much!! great tutorial video!!
Where have you been all this time.........it’s a lost art to put to explain the firing order on a car....excellent ,, excellent excellent work....
Thank you for the nice words.
@@marklennon1 does this work on electronic ignition?
You prolly dont give a shit but does anyone know of a trick to log back into an instagram account..?
I stupidly forgot the password. I love any help you can offer me!
@Nicholas Brentley Instablaster ;)
@Ernest Solomon i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and Im trying it out now.
I see it takes a while so I will get back to you later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Great Video have a 64 Mustang over in the UK and wanted to check the timing as it developed a misfire hard to start and popping through the carb. Yet to try it but great detailed video 👍🏼
Excellent explanation. Thank you!
One question: how tie my distributor should be? I got a Ford F-100 1972 and the distributor is a little bit loose. Btw, it doesn't start. I guess because it is not timed, maybe?
Thanks for your help.
I've been struggling for last few weeks to get my f100 started after changing push rods lifter, tryed this started first time thanks🙂
Did you need to use a timing light?
@@dreamingcode The trucks started that well since I haven't had to put timing light on.
Great video.
Great video , thanks
Very well explained.
Salud.
Best timing video ever
I know this vid has been out for a while. Couple of questions. If you dont set the initial timing by use of the damper, could you get the "12" degrees of timing by turning" advancing" the timing at the distributer? Assuming there is enough room to turn it far enough. Secondly, does it matter where the rotor is pointing as long as you use that spot on the cap for your number 1 cylinder? Btw, very informative video!
Thanks for this. I don't work on Fords. I'm a GM man. Working on a 289 that someone screwed up putting the dist in. Vacuum advance is hitting the thermostat housing and it needs to go even more to time it.
Hey Mark, I have a 351 windsor efi and timing is throwing me off! When I get #1 on compression my timing mark is is 10 degrees atdc #1 on the dizzy is lined up perfect! But when I check this thing with a timing light its 16 to 20 atdc! The more I advance toward 10 btdc it starts to idle way to hi and my headers start to glow red hot quick after start up! When I have it set to where the motor seems happy header elbows dont get as hot but still getting red at at collection of tubes close to the shortie flange were it hooks up to exhaust especially when I raise the RPMs tubes will heat back up! Im lost!
Thank you!!!! Great Video!!!!
What do I do if my test light doesn't go off when I rotate the distributor?
Mark, Great video. I have a question. I went through your process on my 70 Boss 302 with a dual point distributor. The light on my test light was dimly lite all the time and when the points opened I got a bright light on the test light. I am wondering why I have a constant dim light all the time? Does it have something to do with the dual points? Thanks
shelbygt350r I have a 70 Boss 302 in my F-150. I don’t think my distributer has dual points though. The timing is terrible right now, and I’m hoping this video helps. I don’t know if I have any numbers or pointer though. We’ll find out today!
Really good video hope I can do it on my 95 mustang for the first time
Hello sir, great video!! I have a 1969 f100 v8 I get zero clicks or any spark when I turn the key. I have checked coil, solenoid starter and distributor for power, Which they have. The distributor has points eliminator. Does the timing work the same way on this vehicle once I replace the distributor
GRACIAS AMIGO, APRENDÍ A TOMAR EL TIEMPO SIN NECESIDAD DE LAMPARA: PREGUNTO, SE PUEDE HACER LO MISMO CON ENCENDIDO ELECTRONICO? (SIN PLATINOS).
Great video
Getting recommendations for time in the same engine without a vacuum advance. It’s locked out. We have it turned that way and I wanted to know if I can get all out of it get.
So where do I set my marks if there is no numbers of degree? It says TDC and then slashes after but no numbers? Love the video extremely informative but just a little stuck with this. Thanks for your time.
Hi mark,I've got a 1998 Nissan patrol tb45, I'm trying to find out where the timing marks are on the harmonic balancer, because there are 4 marks on it?
You are an ACE!🏺♠️
Helpful, thanks!
Pretty nice to bring back stuff I learned in automotive school. I know this distributor had points. With the turning of the unit to get the light off, on a point less distributor do that light matter?
Is this the same timing procedure for a Ford 292 engine?
Will this be the same for a 259 V8 4.2l? Its in a 1960 studebaker lark where the distributor is on the back of the motor
Great vid. I had to watch a few times. So is a timing light not necessarily needed to set the timing?
Would this also work for a MEL 462? Also do you know which way I would turn the engine? I can't find that info anywhere
I see what he's trying to do it's a good way of finding top TC of the compression stroke if you go past the timing mark make sure you turn it back a little bit farther and then turn it back to where you want the timing to be set which 10° is pretty good then when you put the distributor in and the rotor don't line up it's no big deal just estimate how much farther the rotors going to turn turn it back to the desired amount and all you do is rotate the engine backwards until the distributor falls into place then rotate it back to 10° and see if her roller lines up to where it should be normally the rotor doesn't go straight to the rear but a little bit to your right which is the left side of the engine then all you have to do watch your points turn the distributor until the points just start to open and you're right on top and where you want the timing mark to be I've done many engines many and sometimes I don't even have to move distributor when I put the timing light on it. PS I learned a lot of tricks from working on VW just valves set and timing..
So, as soon as the light turns off it's when you tie up the distributor bolt?
what if the harmonic dampener's outside with the markings slid off the inside part?
very useful Thanks
Well done
Can this test light procedure be done with an HEI dizzy?
Please help!
My uncle and I put a 302 in my 66 mustang. Everything was top dead center, distributer on 1 (mine ignition 1 doesn't point straight back like yours more back right) never did the 10 or 12 degree thing or the light test/timing gun. It starts, needs a new carb, and has a misfire.
Do I have to redue the timing?
The distributor?
If my timing is off would that cause my car to shake when trying to accelerate? Car shakes really bad when going 35 or is that do to the carb/possible misfire? Thank you!!!!!
Thanks. Cool to find that out.
I have a 260 long block I'm getting ready to install in my 62 Mercury Meteor. Your video will definitely help me get it started quickly. Thanks again!
Another question if I put the distributor in its place are supposed to be able to turn the rotor button once its flushed with the intake?
hopefully this finds you, i have followed this video multiple times. we have a 68 Mustang 289. when doing the test light method i wasn't able to get the light to shut off, only slightly dimmer. i set the point gap correctly. in fact the point is new.. any help would be great
hello mark will this timing setting work on my big block ford 460 I got the same firing order and same distributor except it's a duraspark but same cap with number 1 mark on it ....I'm having issues with my truck timing setting
Would this help with rough idle amd lose of power , I’ve changed the spark plugs and wires amd battery and distributor cap and rotor
awesome!
I have a 79 Lincoln continental 4.0 6.6 L. Could you please walk me through how to do the top dead center procedure on a distributor without points. I believe my distributor is an electronic distributor
is it just to leave it before moving on to timing lite after or no need?
What causes test light not to turn off while turning dizzy tried it with 2 distributors and it does the same thing
Would the same apply to like a 2.3 for engine? meaning the distributor rotation and how to find TDC
juan martinez yes
Everything is good and enjoyable! I have never interacted with such old people - V8, but I have marks on the crankshaft pulley in a different place. motor 1966
Instead of fiddling around trying to get it to drop in the oil pump shaft just turn the crank until it drops down then turn the crank back to 10 degrees, so much easier.
Do I still put it on 12 degrees on the harmonic balancer ???
Definitely an early 289 before the government regulated PCV system. Note the breather tube sticking up from the timing cover. It stands for independence! Love it!
Mark, I also have watched your video numerous times. My problem is the tang on the oil pump drops over to one side which does not allow the distributor to drop down even if it may be aligned. I’ve attempted to pack assembly lube around it but once the shaft touches it pushes it over. I’m leery of bumping the engine in fear of loosing the 12 bdc.
Have you ever witnessed this?
Karl - Portland
I’m suspecting the oil pump shaft is not seated with the pump. Unfortunately the keeper is positioned to allow that to happen but won’t allow removal fro the top.
Oh wow this is amazing. Would this timing procedure apply to a 1973 302? My engine is shaking like crazy during idle, back fires, and dies as soon as its placed in gear.
Does this process work the same of a Ford V6 2.8 ?
This would be the same way you do an older 302 wouldn't it? I have a 68 cougar with the 302 that I need to set the timing on and it'll be my first time just trying to figure it out
Hi Mr. Lennon, what is the purpose of finding tdc and then advancing the balancer 10 degrees? What would be the consequence of installing the distributor on the tdc mark on the balancer ? Thanks for any input.
When doing static timing as I showed in the video you have to advance the crank to the timing specification of the engine. Setting it on TDC would give you very low power as It there would not be time for the gas to expand in the cylinder before forcing the piston down.
I like it the procedure 😍😍😍😍
I have been fighting my 1966 289 4v for 3 weeks. I've had it started twice, but it idles fast 1400rpm and I can't slow it down. I've replaced the power valve that I noticed was leaking. I can get it to cough and sputter when I preset the timing to be fully open on the distributor cam while at TDC.
I present the timing to 6 degrees as you showed in the video just this morning, but no luck. to get it there, I had to set the distributor on a different (more advanced) tooth on the cam gear. I checked and I have spark. I checked I was on the compression stroke. I have had 2 carb shops tell me that the Autolite 4100 carb is working fine and settings are correct. Any suggestion what to try?
BTW, when I set the distrib on different tooth, I rotate the crank by hand and it will drop in place within a 90 degree rotation, then I crank it back to my timing setting. Works great, no banging the distrub up and down.
I tossed the points and installed a Petronix. The engine started right up.
I understood everything until I saw that number 1 on the distributor cap. It through me off only because I always see it pointed at the number one cylinder and not have it on the cap. I know that the wire on that number one cylinder was placed at the number one spark plug so I know it's correct. I just have never seen it done that way and I always said to my self why must it be pointed at the number one cylinder when no matter where it's pointed if you're on compression of the number one and connect the wire to it, number one can be started anywhere. Am I correct in that understanding ?
use a 1/4" long shaft hex and turn the pump, then drop it back in.