Thank you for your tutorial. I’ve never soldered in my life, nor fixed any white goods but with your support I solved my AEG dishwasher ‘no heat’ problem. I also used the continuity bit on the DM (that was a 1st too!). I’m 62 and female… if I can do it, anyone can. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for sharing this. My 20 year old AEG recently broke down with several issues (including a broken drain pump). I’m a fairly competent home car mechanic but know nothing about dishwashers. One of the faults was a lack of hot water and it had the exact same issue with the relay burning the board - I would never have figured this out on my own. Just a tip for anyone else with a lack of heat, the other thing to check is continuity of the heating element or pipe heater. Older AEGs have a heater in the pipe at back behind the rear panel (pull the machine out) and a simple test of the power connectors will allow you to eliminate that potential issue as well.
Excellent video and advice. I have an AEG F85060 dishwasher with the same problem and I could fix it following these instructions. I also soldered on a 2cm piece of thick copper cable to act as a heat sink. If you need to replace the relay itself and can't find a replacement, then I think a SRD-12VDC-SL-C should do the job. I have not used it myself, but it has the same specs and pinout so it should work.
Thanks a lot for this video. I repaired my ATAG dishwasher the same as you did with the same Mouser relay and it now works as new again. Roland from the Netherlands.
Hi Jon, many thanks for the video, today I have fixed the AEG dishwasher based on your help. Luckily I didn’t have to replace the relay, simply to fix the burned pin beneath the relay on PCB by cold-welding... Again, many thanks.. Jiri, Czech Rep.
Thanks, this video helped a lot. The relay was slowly but surely getting disconnected, but the connectors on my board had gotten so hot they had burned off. I just soldered bigger wires on the board instead of having connectors, and just connected the wires again outside of the board. Works perfectly now. Sharing is caring. Thank you for this video man. You just saved me hours worth of troubleshooting! ^_^
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account? I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Vincent Gordon i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
I noticed it has a prewash detergent compartment next to the main one at 2:20. When you wash normal dirty loads on the auto or intensive programmes, if you fill that prewash basin with powder or liquid dishwasher detergent, you will get the best wash results (even when using tablets or pods).
@@StuffAboutStuff Wiping dry the compartment will stop tablets or detergent sticking. Any cheap dishwasher powder or liquid can be used in the prewash, along with your normal tablet or pod in the main basin (for full-sized loads on normal cycles, _not_ quick washes). I'm thinking of buying the Miele-brand powder soon (it can be used in *any* make of dishwasher) as it's got so many good reviews and none negative. Can use that in both and not bother with tablets. Yeah, using both the prewash and main wash basins is said to greatly to improve cleaning according to this RUclips video: ruclips.net/video/_rBO8neWw04/видео.html
The design flaw with this machine is the lack of heat-sinking capability of the PCB track that connects to the output pin of the relay. Unfortunately, I suspect your repair will again be only temporary as the same situation exists after your repair. What you should have done (probably using the original relay as mine was fine and I note one of your other comment-maker's relay was also still functional) is simply to re-solder the affected pin but add copious amounts of solder to the track over at least an inch or so of the track and at least 3-4mm thick. This will then adequately disipate the heat - for another year or 2, at least, by which time other faults will almost certainly mean it is time for a whole new machine...
Thanks I think you might be right there. I’ve also found that turning it off completely each time helps too. I think I have compound issues, one failing controller and a dodgy solder joint.....but I’ll try that next time. I did try a solder bridge at the time but I couldn’t get it to join :(
@@StuffAboutStuff A flux pen is handy and a good hot soldering iron too!..Your solder sucker is of piss poor quality with poor suction...You need to wok fast to prevent the print from lifting and being a double sided board makes it even harder...I'd have wrapped a short piece of tinned 15 amp fuse wire around the pin of the relay and soldered it at the pin and part way along the track...Sadly, typical modern day electronics = crap.
Hi, Thank you for sharing the Video! Do you have any hint for removing the last wire Connection with this larger white connector? I tried, but did not get it off so far! Thank you in advance!
Basti Schneider I’m sorry I can’t remember! I recall it was a bit tough - make sure the power is isolated properly and get in there with a little screwdriver? If I recall that’s the 230v plug....
I have paid for 2 new heaters in our machine, heater still fails intermittently. Wife thinks its often ok if the machine is not totally full, and plenty of space on left hand side. Is there any reason why heater will work more often if fewer plates, ? thanks for the video and any other ideas.
Any idea what other components' failures could cause the heater to not work? I have checked the heater itself and it's fully functional. I see no outside signs of the relay burning/being overheated but that doesn't mean much, it could still have failed. Regardless, I have ordered a new relay and will replace the one on the PCB right now, however, I cannot be certain if this is the only component responsible for the heater not heating. What else should I look into in case the new relay doesn't fix the problem?
TurboPlasma hmmm it’s been a while - it’s possible the pcb itself could burn out so you could try adding a solder bridge to support the power route. But - not being funny. Try turning the dishwasher off and on between loads. I’m not kidding. Mine still fails to heat sometimes but switching it off and on in between loads makes it work every time
@@StuffAboutStuff Thanks for the hints; on/off switching was the first thing I tried, including physical disconnection from the power socket, in case there's some residual charge on the capacitors or whatever. As for the solder bridge, I've read in the other comments that it seems to be a frequent issue as well so as soon as I get the new relay, I'll put the soldering iron to work and add some extra thickness to the lines.
My Electrolux also has a thermostat - according to the parts diagram - so I guess that may have some 'say' in when the heater works. Also beware cables flexing at the bottom fo the door where they disappear under the dishwasher - the cables are at risk of flexing every time the door is fully opened and fully closed - and a few thousand flexes down the line one (or more) cable may give out. [This was mentioned elsewhere whilst I was Googling as being a common dishwasher failure)
Serious design flaw here if the common fault is the relay overheating. Seems to me the coil in the relay is not rated correctly for either current or voltage, perhaps even both. Do you think this is deliberate? Maybe, as some people would not be able to replace the relay, so call out for an expensive repair, or even scrap the machine - AEG hoping you buy another one.
Jeff Taylor-Jackson CEng indeed - nowhere near enough heat sink capability from the pcb and relay for the load. It’s basically a kettle, running through a 10p relay
@@StuffAboutStuff My AEG Dishwasher has just packed in this afternoon. I have not pulled it apart because it still might be under warranty. If it isn't then I will look at that control board and the relay. I will back engineer it and measure the current to the relay. My bet is that the coil is drawing too much current for it to be getting hot. If I get to the bottom of it I will post back on here.
Thank you for your tutorial. I’ve never soldered in my life, nor fixed any white goods but with your support I solved my AEG dishwasher ‘no heat’ problem. I also used the continuity bit on the DM (that was a 1st too!). I’m 62 and female… if I can do it, anyone can. Thanks again.
Fantastic!! Well done - money saved and landfill averted :D
Thank you so much for sharing this. My 20 year old AEG recently broke down with several issues (including a broken drain pump). I’m a fairly competent home car mechanic but know nothing about dishwashers. One of the faults was a lack of hot water and it had the exact same issue with the relay burning the board - I would never have figured this out on my own.
Just a tip for anyone else with a lack of heat, the other thing to check is continuity of the heating element or pipe heater. Older AEGs have a heater in the pipe at back behind the rear panel (pull the machine out) and a simple test of the power connectors will allow you to eliminate that potential issue as well.
Great ! Glad it’s helped you! Repair don’t recycle :D
Excellent video and advice. I have an AEG F85060 dishwasher with the same problem and I could fix it following these instructions. I also soldered on a 2cm piece of thick copper cable to act as a heat sink. If you need to replace the relay itself and can't find a replacement, then I think a SRD-12VDC-SL-C should do the job. I have not used it myself, but it has the same specs and pinout so it should work.
Great - glad you saved your appliance from landfill for a while longer :) keep em ticking :)
Thanks! Mouser charged me 3 euro plus 20 euro shipping, but with your great instructions still saved me hundreds...greatly appreciated!
Dagmar Van Bael great! Plus we’ve both helped save some landfill! Well done sir!
Worth mentioning my fix is still going strong more than 2 years later ;)
Thanks a lot for this video. I repaired my ATAG dishwasher the same as you did with the same Mouser relay and it now works as new again. Roland from the Netherlands.
Great! I hate to see perfectly good equipment going to the scrap heap over a simple component ;)
Glad it worked for you :)
Hi Jon, many thanks for the video, today I have fixed the AEG dishwasher based on your help. Luckily I didn’t have to replace the relay, simply to fix the burned pin beneath the relay on PCB by cold-welding... Again, many thanks.. Jiri, Czech Rep.
Great! It’s nice to help keep disposable products ticking for a few more years :)
Thanks, it has been like watching "The Blair witch project" but it was worth it!
Hahaha sorry :) I’ll try and improve the viewer experience in future :D
That made me laugh ha ha ;)
Re-soldering the burnt relay pin joint fixed mine too - many thanks. I'll replace the relay and add a heat sink next time it goes.
Matt Farr great news! Mines been working great ever since :D
Thanks I fixed my too
Thanks, your Video helped us a lot!!!!
Thanks for advice, ny problem solved!!
Great! Well done - keep it ticking :D
Thanks, this video helped a lot. The relay was slowly but surely getting disconnected, but the connectors on my board had gotten so hot they had burned off.
I just soldered bigger wires on the board instead of having connectors, and just connected the wires again outside of the board. Works perfectly now.
Sharing is caring. Thank you for this video man. You just saved me hours worth of troubleshooting! ^_^
Sorry to be off topic but does anyone know of a way to get back into an instagram account?
I stupidly forgot my password. I would love any tips you can give me
@Blake Brycen Instablaster =)
@Vincent Gordon i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site thru google and Im in the hacking process atm.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Vincent Gordon it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you saved my account!
@Blake Brycen Happy to help :D
great vid - thanks Jon !
Hugh Abbott my pleasure :)
Thanks Jon , i had the same problem and your video helpt me to fixit . gr paul -holland
moxietube great! Glad to be of help
I noticed it has a prewash detergent compartment next to the main one at 2:20. When you wash normal dirty loads on the auto or intensive programmes, if you fill that prewash basin with powder or liquid dishwasher detergent, you will get the best wash results (even when using tablets or pods).
I’ve literally never tried that….might give it a try - I don’t generally use the doors because I use tablets and they stick in the compartment
@@StuffAboutStuff Wiping dry the compartment will stop tablets or detergent sticking.
Any cheap dishwasher powder or liquid can be used in the prewash, along with your normal tablet or pod in the main basin (for full-sized loads on normal cycles, _not_ quick washes).
I'm thinking of buying the Miele-brand powder soon (it can be used in *any* make of dishwasher) as it's got so many good reviews and none negative. Can use that in both and not bother with tablets.
Yeah, using both the prewash and main wash basins is said to greatly to improve cleaning according to this RUclips video: ruclips.net/video/_rBO8neWw04/видео.html
The design flaw with this machine is the lack of heat-sinking capability of the PCB track that connects to the output pin of the relay. Unfortunately, I suspect your repair will again be only temporary as the same situation exists after your repair. What you should have done (probably using the original relay as mine was fine and I note one of your other comment-maker's relay was also still functional) is simply to re-solder the affected pin but add copious amounts of solder to the track over at least an inch or so of the track and at least 3-4mm thick. This will then adequately disipate the heat - for another year or 2, at least, by which time other faults will almost certainly mean it is time for a whole new machine...
Thank you also for this comment, helped a lot! :D
Thanks I think you might be right there. I’ve also found that turning it off completely each time helps too. I think I have compound issues, one failing controller and a dodgy solder joint.....but I’ll try that next time. I did try a solder bridge at the time but I couldn’t get it to join :(
@@StuffAboutStuff A flux pen is handy and a good hot soldering iron too!..Your solder sucker is of piss poor quality with poor suction...You need to wok fast to prevent the print from lifting and being a double sided board makes it even harder...I'd have wrapped a short piece of tinned 15 amp fuse wire around the pin of the relay and soldered it at the pin and part way along the track...Sadly, typical modern day electronics = crap.
Hi, Thank you for sharing the Video! Do you have any hint for removing the last wire Connection with this larger white connector? I tried, but did not get it off so far! Thank you in advance!
Basti Schneider I’m sorry I can’t remember! I recall it was a bit tough - make sure the power is isolated properly and get in there with a little screwdriver? If I recall that’s the 230v plug....
I have paid for 2 new heaters in our machine, heater still fails intermittently. Wife thinks its often ok if the machine is not totally full, and plenty of space on left hand side. Is there any reason why heater will work more often if fewer plates, ? thanks for the video and any other ideas.
Any idea what other components' failures could cause the heater to not work? I have checked the heater itself and it's fully functional. I see no outside signs of the relay burning/being overheated but that doesn't mean much, it could still have failed. Regardless, I have ordered a new relay and will replace the one on the PCB right now, however, I cannot be certain if this is the only component responsible for the heater not heating. What else should I look into in case the new relay doesn't fix the problem?
TurboPlasma hmmm it’s been a while - it’s possible the pcb itself could burn out so you could try adding a solder bridge to support the power route.
But - not being funny. Try turning the dishwasher off and on between loads. I’m not kidding. Mine still fails to heat sometimes but switching it off and on in between loads makes it work every time
@@StuffAboutStuff Thanks for the hints; on/off switching was the first thing I tried, including physical disconnection from the power socket, in case there's some residual charge on the capacitors or whatever. As for the solder bridge, I've read in the other comments that it seems to be a frequent issue as well so as soon as I get the new relay, I'll put the soldering iron to work and add some extra thickness to the lines.
Heather can be broken and looks good from outside. Please try to mesure resistance on heather. It must be around 23 ohms.
My Electrolux also has a thermostat - according to the parts diagram - so I guess that may have some 'say' in when the heater works.
Also beware cables flexing at the bottom fo the door where they disappear under the dishwasher - the cables are at risk of flexing every time the door is fully opened and fully closed - and a few thousand flexes down the line one (or more) cable may give out. [This was mentioned elsewhere whilst I was Googling as being a common dishwasher failure)
Serious design flaw here if the common fault is the relay overheating. Seems to me the coil in the relay is not rated correctly for either current or voltage, perhaps even both. Do you think this is deliberate? Maybe, as some people would not be able to replace the relay, so call out for an expensive repair, or even scrap the machine - AEG hoping you buy another one.
Jeff Taylor-Jackson CEng indeed - nowhere near enough heat sink capability from the pcb and relay for the load. It’s basically a kettle, running through a 10p relay
@@StuffAboutStuff My AEG Dishwasher has just packed in this afternoon. I have not pulled it apart because it still might be under warranty. If it isn't then I will look at that control board and the relay. I will back engineer it and measure the current to the relay. My bet is that the coil is drawing too much current for it to be getting hot. If I get to the bottom of it I will post back on here.
I have a similar problem with my AEG. Contact burnt. Dead after just 5 years
Has anyone found another source for this relay. Mouser is no longer carrying this model?
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/203587701781
@@StuffAboutStuff Awesome. Thanks for chiming in.