sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account?? I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
I got addicted to your videos. Just got started on my bathroom sink cabinet project and your videos do contain a lot of useful information for beginners. Thank you
Out of interest, would you use MRMDF for a sink cabinet, Peter? I only looked into working with it from your videos, and I see a lot of "oh well it's not structural" comments on Google, but you make it work well for structures that are capable of taking a load - TVs etc. Would a sink be too much?
Yes, certainly. If you expect the sink to overflow regularly, then maybe consider something else, but MR MDF is made with just this application in mind. The vast majority of kitchen cabinets made commercially in the UK and Europe are made from some kind of laminated particle-board or chipboard, and MR MDF holds up well in comparison. And absolutely no question whatsoever that MR MDF is strong enough for this kind of structure. 👍
Peter, in this video there's a cursory mention of 'lipping' shelves. I've had varied success at making MDF edges more palatable on shelves. Do you have anything more in depth in this? When you do it, how you do it, what you use-you know, the usual. Thanks a million, keep up the good work 👍🏻
Hi Stephen. You could pick pretty much any of the videos from the Client Work, shelves and storage playlist - bit.ly/ClientShelvesAndStorage - and you’ll see a version of lipping. There’s no magic trick to it - it finishes the edge of the MDF easily and takes the knocks a bit better, and even a relatively thin lip adds a surprising amount of stiffness to a wider span. HTH P 👍
In this instance it was because the shelves were for books, so a solid timber lipping gives it additional strength, and helps prevent sag over time. And yes, what we call Scandinavian Redwood, or just ‘Redwood’ it’s the standard grade of joinery timber here, also called Scots pine. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop ah good to know. I initially thought it may have been for some aesthetic reason. I can see why the additional strength is needed due to supports only at the ends. Always learning! Thanks for getting back to me!
Hi Peter, diving into your back catalogue a little but l really enjoy your videos. This may be different in London homes but have you noticed that the alcoves in Victorian houses are always different widths and how do you normally work around this with your designs?
Thanks Chris! Yes, alcoves in Victorian houses are almost always different widths, although often not by that much - more accidental than intentional, I think! I work around this by making each unit to fit the space it’s going into ie every one is different! No shortcuts, I’m afraid! 👍👍
Hi Peter, do you have any videos where you show marking out etc for your domino machine? Is it all done using pencil lines and then eyeing it up with the machine? Is there any play in the domino holes to allow any side to side movement so that for example if the front face of your cabinet side was misalligned to the front face of the top biece by a mm or so you can wiggle it about to flush it all up before clamping? Thanks Colin.
Hi Colin. I haven’t done anything on the Domino as there are already a ton of videos about it already on RUclips. In short, the Domino has little pins or paddles that register against the edge of the pieces to be joined, so registration to the edge is pretty flawless. Anything inboard is generally done to a pencil line. There are three widths of Domino mortise available, so plenty of wiggle room if needed. I usually cut the mortises in the face at mid-size, and in the edge of the board at the smallest setting 👍
Yep, 8x4s here too. It is small, but doable if I have to - most of the time though I have my sheet goods cut to size as I have a very good timberyard near me that does precision board cutting. This generates a decent quantity of sizable offcuts, which is what I was using on this projec.t 👍
+Simon Wallis Yeah, it was a bit sudden; tbh this was edited overnight as I was going away on holiday the following morning - had to get it done! And yes - domino's a different animal altogether IMHO. 👍
+Simon Wallis Biscuits have more flexibility in their range of types and uses. There are many different types of biscuits from wooden, plastic and metal materials. Some metal biscuits act as a connector so you put the biscuits in both joint pieces and then you can connect them together. So that means you can do them in the workshop and then connect them on site. Some metal biscuits allow you to fit them in and then screw them into place rather than using glue or wedging them in. Dominos are also fantastic but not quite as flexible or easy to use on mitre joints and they require more precision but are very strong for how easy they are to use in general. I would suggest for most people to get a good Mafell biscuit jointer for about £450 that is very accurate and then use different biscuit joints. I my self use both biscuits and dominos.
Big fan of your videos, enjoyable format and informative ! From other comments I understand you use MR MDF. If you can say, which make is it ? Medite may be. Why is it not green ? Just curious as I'm in a quest to find a local supplier with a cutting service. I would like to achieve a better result than with the furry MDF I find at the shed store.
+Geoffray Doignon Thanks! Yes, usually Medite. The thinner boards (12mm and less) tend to be green all the way through (though not always) whereas 15mm and thicker tend to just have the green core. And yes, a much better quality board all around than regular MDF 👍
Hi Brian. I use a very old copy of Omnigraffle for doing simple 2-D diagrams. I should upgrade it, or try something else, but there's a lot of muscle-memory to work against, and tbh it does the job pretty well. There seems to be a dearth of simple 2-D drawing software made for regular folks - everything else I've tried wants to be CAD, and I just want simple - 2-D to scale, in metric. So I stick with Omnigraffle, not because it's great, but because it's what I know; hardly a ringing endorsement, is it, lol! 😂 👍
+Matthew Buntyn Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment. Here in the UK we're fortunate to have a variety of types of MDF available, and MR (moisture resistant) MDF is a much better quality board then regular MDF. It also takes paint extremely well, is stable, machines nicely, and is the staple of the fitted furniture industry both here and in Europe. To achieve a similar painted finish in plywood takes a lot more work, and a decent quality plywood is well over double the price of MR MDF here. Plywood also generally needs edging as it can be very difficult to lose the 'stripes' on a cut edge when painting. So plywood becomes a more expensive board that requires a lot more effort to achieve a good painted finish. It is stronger, but that's usually only a consideration on e.g. shelves over a certain span, of if you know the shelves will be heavily loaded - and even then, a deep (~20mm) lip added to an MR MDF shelf makes a huge difference. Short answer: for painted work MRMDF is easier to work with, cheaper to buy, and gives a better result with less effort. HTH, Peter 👍
I have an ancient copy of Omnigraffle - about as far removed from CAD as you can get, lol! I try to keep it as simple as possible, and there's a lot of muscle-memory involved - I'm sure there's something better available, but I'm equally sure it'll take me too long to get to grips with it. 👍
Thanks Peter. I've tried a few room planner type apps and tried sketchup but never for long enough for it to become quick. Regarding 'paid for' content- youtube is such a vast resource isn't it. Amazing really.. free video content from around the world on any topic you can imagine. How then do you make your content different enough to make it worth paying for? The Wood Whisperer has done it with the guild and a few others. Would I pay for it? The honest answer is that I enjoy the free content and I'm not in the habit of paying. I think that for me, I would need to feel I was learning a lot. You're videos are enjoyable and entertaining, with the odd technique that I learn from, but your work is similar to the work i do so I'm not sure I would pay.
Hi Peter, which width (amount of slack) setting or settings do you use with the DF500 on a project such as this? I very much enjoy your videos but I do wish the power tools didn't sound like a dentist's drill on the speeded up sections ;-)
+Simon Fisher They're usually tight on one side and mid-setting on the other - I don't think I've ever used the wide setting, tbh! And yes, I know - sets my teeth on edge every time, even though I knock the volume down to about 8% on the ff sections! I've tried muting them completely, but it doesn't feel right at all. 👍
I love your videos too, but I'd like to watch the whole project in 1 X 45 minute video. I always do my designs on paper but I'd really like to take it to the next level - your printed plans are exactly what I would like to do. Any pointers Peter?
+Anthony James Brown Thanks! The problem with producing one big video is that it's basically too long to hold people's attention - I have access to the analytics and even 10 minute videos are pushing it for many people. The other thing is that some folks are on flakey/slower broadband connections (or, shockingly, not on broadband at all!) and getting a connection steady enough to stream for 45 minutes would be a stretch. Let me throw this back to you; if I made these videos available as single ~45 minute uninterrupted 'shows' would you be prepared to pay for them if I put them up on, say, Vimeo on Demand? Or as paid-for content on Patreon? Just curious. Re. the drawings, I use an old copy of Omnigraffle to do my simple 2-D plans; I understand you can do this in sketchup, but I've never invested the time in getting to grips with it, and the muscle-memory in omnigraffle is strong! There does seem to be a dearth of simple 2D drawing programs that can work to scale - they all seem to want to be either mini CAD systems, or overly simplistic room planners; if you come across anything decent, please do let me know! Thanks, Peter
:-( I checked out your website site it's a great shame you don't cover my area, East London. It's so difficult to find someone who takes so much pride in what they do.
If you’re going to quote me, quote me fully; “...nobody’s burning fossil fuels in city centres anymore” is what I said. And since when was wood fossilised?
Always feels like Christmas when I see a new video of yours on the homepage! Looks awesome. An inspiration for a young woodworker.
+Charlie H Thanks! 👍
sorry to be off topic but does anybody know of a trick to log back into an Instagram account??
I was stupid forgot my login password. I would appreciate any tricks you can offer me.
@Santiago Micah instablaster :)
I got addicted to your videos. Just got started on my bathroom sink cabinet project and your videos do contain a lot of useful information for beginners. Thank you
+Ádám Elekes Thanks, glad to hear it 👍
Out of interest, would you use MRMDF for a sink cabinet, Peter? I only looked into working with it from your videos, and I see a lot of "oh well it's not structural" comments on Google, but you make it work well for structures that are capable of taking a load - TVs etc. Would a sink be too much?
Yes, certainly. If you expect the sink to overflow regularly, then maybe consider something else, but MR MDF is made with just this application in mind. The vast majority of kitchen cabinets made commercially in the UK and Europe are made from some kind of laminated particle-board or chipboard, and MR MDF holds up well in comparison. And absolutely no question whatsoever that MR MDF is strong enough for this kind of structure. 👍
Perfect timing with this one as I'm shortly about to undertake this exact task myself and this series is going to be a great help. Thanks!
+chris13a1212 Pleasure. 👍
Great video again, I have made several doors now using your system and it works brilliantly!
+Ross Addison Thanks!
Built ins are always nice Peter,a lot of work but in the end looks like a million bucks
+syd ascott Fingers crossed 🤞😂
Peter, in this video there's a cursory mention of 'lipping' shelves. I've had varied success at making MDF edges more palatable on shelves. Do you have anything more in depth in this? When you do it, how you do it, what you use-you know, the usual.
Thanks a million, keep up the good work 👍🏻
Hi Stephen. You could pick pretty much any of the videos from the Client Work, shelves and storage playlist - bit.ly/ClientShelvesAndStorage - and you’ll see a version of lipping. There’s no magic trick to it - it finishes the edge of the MDF easily and takes the knocks a bit better, and even a relatively thin lip adds a surprising amount of stiffness to a wider span. HTH P 👍
Thanks Peter.👍
Hi peter, just wondering why you lip to shelves with the lengths of soft wood. cheers
It gives a little extra bracing and can take the knocks better than an MDF edge. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop I see! thanks
Hi Peter. Could you explain, or link to an explanation as to why you lip your shelves with timber, I assume European red wood? Many thanks
In this instance it was because the shelves were for books, so a solid timber lipping gives it additional strength, and helps prevent sag over time. And yes, what we call Scandinavian Redwood, or just ‘Redwood’ it’s the standard grade of joinery timber here, also called Scots pine. 👍👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop ah good to know. I initially thought it may have been for some aesthetic reason. I can see why the additional strength is needed due to supports only at the ends. Always learning! Thanks for getting back to me!
@@jparsonsmedia No problem, thanks James! 👍
Hi Peter, diving into your back catalogue a little but l really enjoy your videos. This may be different in London homes but have you noticed that the alcoves in Victorian houses are always different widths and how do you normally work around this with your designs?
Thanks Chris! Yes, alcoves in Victorian houses are almost always different widths, although often not by that much - more accidental than intentional, I think! I work around this by making each unit to fit the space it’s going into ie every one is different! No shortcuts, I’m afraid! 👍👍
Hi Peter, do you have any videos where you show marking out etc for your domino machine? Is it all done using pencil lines and then eyeing it up with the machine? Is there any play in the domino holes to allow any side to side movement so that for example if the front face of your cabinet side was misalligned to the front face of the top biece by a mm or so you can wiggle it about to flush it all up before clamping? Thanks Colin.
Hi Colin. I haven’t done anything on the Domino as there are already a ton of videos about it already on RUclips. In short, the Domino has little pins or paddles that register against the edge of the pieces to be joined, so registration to the edge is pretty flawless. Anything inboard is generally done to a pencil line. There are three widths of Domino mortise available, so plenty of wiggle room if needed. I usually cut the mortises in the face at mid-size, and in the edge of the board at the smallest setting 👍
@@10MinuteWorkshop thanks for the comprehensive reply Peter, keep up the good work :-)
What size are the sheets of mdf you use? In USA sheets are 4x8. Your shop is small. Where do you break the sheets down?
Yep, 8x4s here too. It is small, but doable if I have to - most of the time though I have my sheet goods cut to size as I have a very good timberyard near me that does precision board cutting. This generates a decent quantity of sizable offcuts, which is what I was using on this projec.t 👍
Nice,how come you don't use kitchen cabinets and doors to cut labour/production ??
Thanks! They’re made to measure. Standard cabinets and doors won’t do the job. 🤷♂️👍
Do you normally use 22mm mrmdf for all your cabinet carcasses? Ive used 18mm for alot of mine and theyre already ridicilously heavy!
No, 18mm for the carcasses, 22mm for door rails & stiles. 👍👍
That ended abruptly Peter,out of interest due to cost,do you consider the domino markedly better than a biscuit joiner?
+Simon Wallis Yeah, it was a bit sudden; tbh this was edited overnight as I was going away on holiday the following morning - had to get it done! And yes - domino's a different animal altogether IMHO. 👍
+Simon Wallis
Biscuits have more flexibility in their range of types and uses. There are many different types of biscuits from wooden, plastic and metal materials.
Some metal biscuits act as a connector so you put the biscuits in both joint pieces and then you can connect them together. So that means you can do them in the workshop and then connect them on site. Some metal biscuits allow you to fit them in and then screw them into place rather than using glue or wedging them in.
Dominos are also fantastic but not quite as flexible or easy to use on mitre joints and they require more precision but are very strong for how easy they are to use in general.
I would suggest for most people to get a good Mafell biscuit jointer for about £450 that is very accurate and then use different biscuit joints.
I my self use both biscuits and dominos.
Hi Peter I would like an alcove built in, however I have a gas meter and a small boxinin in the corner. 🤔
🤷♂️ You’ve got to work around that somehow. Gas meter needs access. 👍
Big fan of your videos, enjoyable format and informative ! From other comments I understand you use MR MDF. If you can say, which make is it ? Medite may be. Why is it not green ? Just curious as I'm in a quest to find a local supplier with a cutting service. I would like to achieve a better result than with the furry MDF I find at the shed store.
+Geoffray Doignon Thanks! Yes, usually Medite. The thinner boards (12mm and less) tend to be green all the way through (though not always) whereas 15mm and thicker tend to just have the green core. And yes, a much better quality board all around than regular MDF 👍
Hi Peter, what software do you use for your plans or is it freehand .
Hi Brian. I use a very old copy of Omnigraffle for doing simple 2-D diagrams. I should upgrade it, or try something else, but there's a lot of muscle-memory to work against, and tbh it does the job pretty well. There seems to be a dearth of simple 2-D drawing software made for regular folks - everything else I've tried wants to be CAD, and I just want simple - 2-D to scale, in metric. So I stick with Omnigraffle, not because it's great, but because it's what I know; hardly a ringing endorsement, is it, lol! 😂 👍
Based on the videos that I've watched, you seem to prefer using MDF over plywood. If that is the case, what informed that decision?
+Matthew Buntyn Thanks for watching & taking the time to comment. Here in the UK we're fortunate to have a variety of types of MDF available, and MR (moisture resistant) MDF is a much better quality board then regular MDF. It also takes paint extremely well, is stable, machines nicely, and is the staple of the fitted furniture industry both here and in Europe. To achieve a similar painted finish in plywood takes a lot more work, and a decent quality plywood is well over double the price of MR MDF here.
Plywood also generally needs edging as it can be very difficult to lose the 'stripes' on a cut edge when painting. So plywood becomes a more expensive board that requires a lot more effort to achieve a good painted finish. It is stronger, but that's usually only a consideration on e.g. shelves over a certain span, of if you know the shelves will be heavily loaded - and even then, a deep (~20mm) lip added to an MR MDF shelf makes a huge difference.
Short answer: for painted work MRMDF is easier to work with, cheaper to buy, and gives a better result with less effort. HTH, Peter 👍
Peter Millard Thanks for the answer
+Matthew Buntyn 👍
And even the most expensive plywood will attempt to warp. It is the inherent evil deep inside the beast!
Hi Peter, what CAD program do you use?
Thanks
I have an ancient copy of Omnigraffle - about as far removed from CAD as you can get, lol! I try to keep it as simple as possible, and there's a lot of muscle-memory involved - I'm sure there's something better available, but I'm equally sure it'll take me too long to get to grips with it. 👍
Thanks Peter. I've tried a few room planner type apps and tried sketchup but never for long enough for it to become quick.
Regarding 'paid for' content- youtube is such a vast resource isn't it. Amazing really.. free video content from around the world on any topic you can imagine. How then do you make your content different enough to make it worth paying for? The Wood Whisperer has done it with the guild and a few others. Would I pay for it? The honest answer is that I enjoy the free content and I'm not in the habit of paying. I think that for me, I would need to feel I was learning a lot. You're videos are enjoyable and entertaining, with the odd technique that I learn from, but your work is similar to the work i do so I'm not sure I would pay.
+Anthony James Brown 👍
Peter Millard r
Hi Peter, which width (amount of slack) setting or settings do you use with the DF500 on a project such as this? I very much enjoy your videos but I do wish the power tools didn't sound like a dentist's drill on the speeded up sections ;-)
+Simon Fisher They're usually tight on one side and mid-setting on the other - I don't think I've ever used the wide setting, tbh! And yes, I know - sets my teeth on edge every time, even though I knock the volume down to about 8% on the ff sections! I've tried muting them completely, but it doesn't feel right at all. 👍
I love your videos too, but I'd like to watch the whole project in 1 X 45 minute video. I always do my designs on paper but I'd really like to take it to the next level - your printed plans are exactly what I would like to do. Any pointers Peter?
+Anthony James Brown Thanks! The problem with producing one big video is that it's basically too long to hold people's attention - I have access to the analytics and even 10 minute videos are pushing it for many people. The other thing is that some folks are on flakey/slower broadband connections (or, shockingly, not on broadband at all!) and getting a connection steady enough to stream for 45 minutes would be a stretch. Let me throw this back to you; if I made these videos available as single ~45 minute uninterrupted 'shows' would you be prepared to pay for them if I put them up on, say, Vimeo on Demand? Or as paid-for content on Patreon? Just curious.
Re. the drawings, I use an old copy of Omnigraffle to do my simple 2-D plans; I understand you can do this in sketchup, but I've never invested the time in getting to grips with it, and the muscle-memory in omnigraffle is strong! There does seem to be a dearth of simple 2D drawing programs that can work to scale - they all seem to want to be either mini CAD systems, or overly simplistic room planners; if you come across anything decent, please do let me know! Thanks, Peter
Alcoves
Hi Peter, I'd like you to build my alcove units for me, have you got a website? :-)
+Joker Joker 😂👍
:-( I checked out your website site it's a great shame you don't cover my area, East London. It's so difficult to find someone who takes so much pride in what they do.
Joker Joker Sorry, I only work my little patch of West London. If you can tell me whereabouts in East London I’ll try and recommend someone. Thanks! P
Nobodies burning fossil fuels anymore... #woodburner #fashion
If you’re going to quote me, quote me fully; “...nobody’s burning fossil fuels in city centres anymore” is what I said. And since when was wood fossilised?
I wonder how many minutes u have wasted saying "10 minutes in the workshop is never 10 minutes wasted"?😂
+Paul Mcgeoch Well, about 10 minutes, probably... 😂
But I've never found it wasted.