The torque solutions transmission mount are really good. I bought the fully solid one (looks like the one in the video without the rubber bushings and joints). Real big difference. Nice video!
this was a pain, I have equal length headers so the passenger side mount wouldn't come out unless I took off the header. I also wasnt lucky enough to have airpower tools so lots of PB blaster to get some of the bolts loose. This has been worse than installing my AOS.
@@JotaJotaSTI i just kept repeating what he said about having the right tools in my head as i had to use my small gear wrench to get those rear bolts off lol
I need mounts for my car. Im told to stay away from OEM since I have some mods but I don’t want too much NVH. Where does the torque solution mounts come in with regard to that? Is the NVH a lot?
does anybody know if the "02-14" mounts will fit my 2001 gc8 ?? having trouble finding info and im not sure what the difference between 01 and 02 mounts is since I can't find it anywhere !!
just got my mounts replaced today and it vibrates alot when I released the clutch into first . is that normal and could it cause fine knock learn to go up ?
the engine isn't doing anything different, you're just feeling more of the vibrations it already produced. I wouldn't worry about it. You could look into fluidampr, it can help dampen some engine vibrations, cabin noise, and apparently even give like 5-10 hp to some cars.
JotaJota STI haha i think he’s got a gray one yeah? i remember seeing the instagram handle in the back window 🤣 i’m over in cooper city you also in south fl?
Awesome for those WOT shifts makes the whole car feel solid, no jerking or clunking like it is going to fall apart lol you will get vibrations in car from idle though so just be aware thats what you get for the performance benefits.
yo!! how did u guys drop the engine back thru the holes after the engine mounts? i heard the lift go up?? or did you guys lowered down the transmission jack? lol im trynuh do this on the floor
@@mjs_ctr8521 I know that a comment isn't as helpful as a video but just so you know. 1) You remove the intercooler. and you will see a small valve on top of the transmission, in front of the pitch stop mount that looks like this www.google.com/search?q=wrx+clutch+slave+cylinder&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS900US900&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwir3Pi1r7HqAhUKhXIEHcn_Bt0Q_AUoAXoECAwQAw&biw=1536&bih=722#imgrc=6oOhApc53c8AdM . Number 3 in the picture is the bleed valve. 2) Get some sort of bleeder bottle like this. www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/brake-bleeder/oemtools-one-man-brake-bleeder-kit/46839_0_0?spps.s=4768&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000060668368&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoMGkvLCx6gIVHAiICR26rQfrEAQYASABEgK83vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds . Stick it somewhere ABOVE the valve. Maybe on the hood. Or simply just hold it with your hand above the valve. 3) Have a friend sit in the car to pump the clutch. 4) Have your friend press and HOLD the clutch. Then you open the bleeder valve. 5) While he is STILL pressing the clutch down- close the valve. Then he can let the clutch back up. Do NOT let the clutch back up until the valve is re-tightened. 6 Just repeat this a bunch of times until no more air comes out of the line (or until clean fluid comes out if you are changing the fluid completely). Make sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir full. Since the clutch uses brake fluid the fluid level will fall as you bleed (totally normal). 7. Once you are done, tighten the valve (within reason don't strip it or tighten it like a maniac.) Put the intercooler back and you are done. You will feel the clutch become more crisp, a little stiffer, but it will engage a lot smoother. As you and your helper do this you will surely feel some sort of change with how the clutch feels as you press it down. I know I will repeat myself but it is important. DO NOT let the clutch back up WHILE the bleeder valve is open. You will bring air into the system and in all likelihood you will spend hours (or a day waiting for the air bubble to rise to the top) to get the air out. Cheers
The torque solutions transmission mount are really good. I bought the fully solid one (looks like the one in the video without the rubber bushings and joints). Real big difference. Nice video!
Thanks I appreciate it! Yea so far so good with it and the motor mounts the car feels solid.
Can you post a video driving it after this install?
this was a pain, I have equal length headers so the passenger side mount wouldn't come out unless I took off the header. I also wasnt lucky enough to have airpower tools so lots of PB blaster to get some of the bolts loose. This has been worse than installing my AOS.
Wow yea sometimes jobs can be harder without the best tools.
@@JotaJotaSTI i just kept repeating what he said about having the right tools in my head as i had to use my small gear wrench to get those rear bolts off lol
I have a 2013 crosstrek i need to replace my motor mount do you know if its the same as this?
This is just 14mm all the way around right?
I need mounts for my car. Im told to stay away from OEM since I have some mods but I don’t want too much NVH. Where does the torque solution mounts come in with regard to that? Is the NVH a lot?
I did notice vibration in the car at like a stop. Nothing that is too crazy though.
@@JotaJotaSTI Thanks for the reply! Awesome video btw
does anybody know if the "02-14" mounts will fit my 2001 gc8 ?? having trouble finding info and im not sure what the difference between 01 and 02 mounts is since I can't find it anywhere !!
just got my mounts replaced today and it vibrates alot when I released the clutch into first . is that normal and could it cause fine knock learn to go up ?
the engine isn't doing anything different, you're just feeling more of the vibrations it already produced. I wouldn't worry about it. You could look into fluidampr, it can help dampen some engine vibrations, cabin noise, and apparently even give like 5-10 hp to some cars.
Feeling that extra vibration is normal I noticed it also. I didn't notice my fine knock learn go up.
wait i think i met JC in plantation, i saw him getting out of the supra, doesn’t it have drag slicks?!?!
Not sure what kind of craziness they got going on now with it but I’m sure lol
JotaJota STI haha i think he’s got a gray one yeah? i remember seeing the instagram handle in the back window 🤣 i’m over in cooper city you also in south fl?
Yes I am lol
JotaJota STI awesome
NICE THANK YOU.
Thanks! Hope it helped!
What are your thoughts on the mounts?
Awesome for those WOT shifts makes the whole car feel solid, no jerking or clunking like it is going to fall apart lol you will get vibrations in car from idle though so just be aware thats what you get for the performance benefits.
How bad are the vibrations? I want performance mounts but I also want my car to still be comfortable
yo!! how did u guys drop the engine back thru the holes after the engine mounts? i heard the lift go up?? or did you guys lowered down the transmission jack? lol im trynuh do this on the floor
You want to lower the motor down. You got this! Lol if you have the motor jacked just lower the motor slowly. We had the luxury of the lift.
bro thanks man!! when you do that brace, please do the step by step of how to bleed the clutch line also. im standing by!!
@@mjs_ctr8521 I know that a comment isn't as helpful as a video but just so you know.
1) You remove the intercooler. and you will see a small valve on top of the transmission, in front of the pitch stop mount that looks like this www.google.com/search?q=wrx+clutch+slave+cylinder&rlz=1C1CHBF_enUS900US900&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=2ahUKEwir3Pi1r7HqAhUKhXIEHcn_Bt0Q_AUoAXoECAwQAw&biw=1536&bih=722#imgrc=6oOhApc53c8AdM . Number 3 in the picture is the bleed valve.
2) Get some sort of bleeder bottle like this. www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/brake-bleeder/oemtools-one-man-brake-bleeder-kit/46839_0_0?spps.s=4768&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000060668368&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIoMGkvLCx6gIVHAiICR26rQfrEAQYASABEgK83vD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds . Stick it somewhere ABOVE the valve. Maybe on the hood. Or simply just hold it with your hand above the valve.
3) Have a friend sit in the car to pump the clutch.
4) Have your friend press and HOLD the clutch. Then you open the bleeder valve.
5) While he is STILL pressing the clutch down- close the valve. Then he can let the clutch back up. Do NOT let the clutch back up until the valve is re-tightened.
6 Just repeat this a bunch of times until no more air comes out of the line (or until clean fluid comes out if you are changing the fluid completely). Make sure to keep the brake fluid reservoir full. Since the clutch uses brake fluid the fluid level will fall as you bleed (totally normal).
7. Once you are done, tighten the valve (within reason don't strip it or tighten it like a maniac.) Put the intercooler back and you are done. You will feel the clutch become more crisp, a little stiffer, but it will engage a lot smoother. As you and your helper do this you will surely feel some sort of change with how the clutch feels as you press it down.
I know I will repeat myself but it is important. DO NOT let the clutch back up WHILE the bleeder valve is open. You will bring air into the system and in all likelihood you will spend hours (or a day waiting for the air bubble to rise to the top) to get the air out.
Cheers
Do you recommend torque mount I have 550 whp the wheel 2013 wrx ?