Just wanted to give you a big thank you! This is the definitive video for installing the Perrin pitch stop mount + brace! Did this on my 2016 WRX with 118k that just got a new engine. Biggest advice would be to just have patience for the tricky bolts (the hint with using the tape was KEY).
Great video! Just did the Perrin brace install on my 2015 WRX. I used this video pausing and doing exactly what was done in this video. When I did this today I had around 71,500 miles on the car. The stock bracket was in great shape. No tears or welds broken. I already had the Perrin pitch stop on the car when I had maybe 6,000 miles on it. I did not know about the pitch stop brace back then or maybe I thought why would I need that but who knows I don't remember lol. My rivet nuts both did not go in very well. I was screwing it in the hole but after it got tight then loose it never got tight again which the second time that occurs per video I should back out the bolt leaving the rivet in place. Anyway, the hex machine screws did not hold the passenger side bracket very well after that. I ended up finding two of the same spare machine screws (glad I keep old parts and misc crap) which are of a slightly bigger thread. I screwed those in for the passenger bracket side. It felt really solid so I just left those there. The other hex screw on driver side bracket was a pain. I did not have that size hex so I used torx bit. It only went so far so I could not screw that one down to spec... All the other bolts and nuts were tightened using torque wrench as in the video. I have a Verticooler so it was more of a pain re-installing it. I did not have any help this time around so I had to solo it. Only thing I did get some help on was when I bled the clutch to get rid of added air. I had started using the cheap hand pump to bleed it but was better doing it with helper I found or probably if I had a compressor (I just use my stepbrothers if I need it) use one of those vacuum bleeders. I was doing this at my grandfathers house and he was helping with pushing clutch. He wanted to do something so I let him. He is 90yrs old now! He was just pressing the clutch down. I was popping the clutch back. When I saw no more bubbles I pumped it by hand back and forth until the clutch sprung back and held firm. What I'm not crazy about is having those wires left zip tied to the AC piping. I zip tied them to one of the IAG AOS lines but not too tight. Just to hold the harness from flopping around. Drove around 10 miles so far and the car feels good driving. I think it is an improvement! Probably will get the master cylinder brake support next.
Nice work! Looks like things went smoothly. So many people are hesitant to do this because of the clutch line swap-- this shows just how simple it actually is.
Thanks Joey! The only part that is a bit tricky is installing the rivet nuts - you definitely want to take your time and make sure you do it correctly.
I have all the Group-N mounts and this brace kit ready to go on my '15. Very good real world details for probably the most thorough DIY of these parts out there. For people reading these comments, the clutch line is optional to put on. No matter what, get the supports on there asap even if you don't want to bleed/swap a line do that later if you have too. Perrin just threw it in the box to mark up$$ the aluminum stuff even more lol but its worth doing also to take advantage of the new engagement of the driveline connecting to your leg w stiffer mounts. Factory line has a limiter in it to prevent clutch drops causing shock (protect Subaru for warranty) but your clutch engagement will have more feedback w new open line.
Wish I had watched this video before I did the install of the brace 2 years ago. I messed up the first rivet nut and the only way to get it off was to push it through the hole into the beam - I guess this is the reason that Perrin stresses to only use aluminum rivet nuts and not stainless steel. Your video gives some very good pointers on how to install the rivet nuts and some good tips for the master cylinder nuts as well (I had to gingerly maneuver it in and out so as not to drop it). Either way the brace is 100% for everyone that doesn't have the revised bracket and probably a very good idea even for those who have the bracket if they are modding the engine for power and/or are using a much stiffer aftermarket pitch stop.
Great install video, very detailed. One of the mods I want to do. Be great if you guys could do a charge pipe install video but I see the car already has one installed as well:)
Need the trans mount and even worth doing the engine mounts, the old ones will still flex esp now the upper has been stiffened significantly, very nice kit though and good video, installation. 🤙
Detailed install! Is there a noticeable difference before and after the pitch stop mount install as far as motor movement and does the brace add to that reduction?
Thanks 3 D! The brace will help firm things up but more than anything it supports the factory firewall mount so it is less likely to brake under stress. The actual pitch stop mount provides the firmness but the brace supports it. You could run just the brace with the factory pitch stop mount but I wouldn't run the perrin pitch stop mount without the brace.
It definitely stiffens up the front end a bit. I've noticed a significant amount of NVH, however. Mostly due to the engine cover and one of the breather hoses rattling in the engine bay. I think I'm going to get the stiffer motor mounts as well.
seems like over kill for a street car, I can see the necessity for a track car though. I dont see how a stiffer pitch stop will help the mount from breaking, I would think it would have the opposite affect and I wonder if there is a difference in nvh.
The stiffer pitch stop mount doesn't help the mount from breaking at all (in fact it's recommended to stick with the factory pitch stop mount UNLESS you have the pitch stop brace). We installed the stiffer mount because now that we have the brace we don't run the risk of breaking it. We hope that helps clear it up a little. There will be no change in NHV with just the brace and very minimal with the pitch stop mount. When changing gears, accelerating and downshifting, the engine jerks noticeably less now. It's not a night and day difference but certainly noticeable. We are also running a stiffer trans mount which helped quite a bit.
At what point does the clutch peddle come back on its own? Watching the video the clutch peddle always stayed on the floor and had to be pulled back with his hand. Thanks
Hey Bart, when bleeding the clutch you are relieving the pressure during the bleeding process. When it is completed and you close the bleed screw the function should return to normal.
Hey @subiebros one of the issues I've been hearing lately is that their is chance that this could prevent one issue with pitch stop mount breaking, but then causing the firewall to have failure. Thoughts?
UCCRacing this is true, that's why you should definitely consider the brace first then the pitch stop mount is optional. We don't recommend running the mount without the brace because of this. The brace will heavily reduce the chance of firewall failure.
The only thing that I do not like about this kit is it requires the re-use of the banjo washers. I have not done this install and do not know what material the banjo washers are made of but most that I have seen are copper. Every time the washers are used they deform a little and may leak. Banjo washers a cheap from the part store. There is no reason Perrin should not include these.
Thanks for the feedback Casper, we will pass this along to Perrin. Also we may add them to the kit ourselves, along with a small piece of clear tubing for the bleeding process.
Just wanted to give you a big thank you! This is the definitive video for installing the Perrin pitch stop mount + brace! Did this on my 2016 WRX with 118k that just got a new engine. Biggest advice would be to just have patience for the tricky bolts (the hint with using the tape was KEY).
Great video! Just did the Perrin brace install on my 2015 WRX. I used this video pausing and doing exactly what was done in this video. When I did this today I had around 71,500 miles on the car. The stock bracket was in great shape. No tears or welds broken. I already had the Perrin pitch stop on the car when I had maybe 6,000 miles on it. I did not know about the pitch stop brace back then or maybe I thought why would I need that but who knows I don't remember lol.
My rivet nuts both did not go in very well. I was screwing it in the hole but after it got tight then loose it never got tight again which the second time that occurs per video I should back out the bolt leaving the rivet in place. Anyway, the hex machine screws did not hold the passenger side bracket very well after that. I ended up finding two of the same spare machine screws (glad I keep old parts and misc crap) which are of a slightly bigger thread. I screwed those in for the passenger bracket side. It felt really solid so I just left those there. The other hex screw on driver side bracket was a pain. I did not have that size hex so I used torx bit. It only went so far so I could not screw that one down to spec... All the other bolts and nuts were tightened using torque wrench as in the video. I have a Verticooler so it was more of a pain re-installing it. I did not have any help this time around so I had to solo it. Only thing I did get some help on was when I bled the clutch to get rid of added air. I had started using the cheap hand pump to bleed it but was better doing it with helper I found or probably if I had a compressor (I just use my stepbrothers if I need it) use one of those vacuum bleeders. I was doing this at my grandfathers house and he was helping with pushing clutch. He wanted to do something so I let him. He is 90yrs old now! He was just pressing the clutch down. I was popping the clutch back. When I saw no more bubbles I pumped it by hand back and forth until the clutch sprung back and held firm. What I'm not crazy about is having those wires left zip tied to the AC piping. I zip tied them to one of the IAG AOS lines but not too tight. Just to hold the harness from flopping around.
Drove around 10 miles so far and the car feels good driving. I think it is an improvement! Probably will get the master cylinder brake support next.
Best install video I've seen for the brace!
Nice work! Looks like things went smoothly. So many people are hesitant to do this because of the clutch line swap-- this shows just how simple it actually is.
Thanks Joey! The only part that is a bit tricky is installing the rivet nuts - you definitely want to take your time and make sure you do it correctly.
Worth it but the master cylinder brake support is a must, even easier installation.
I have all the Group-N mounts and this brace kit ready to go on my '15. Very good real world details for probably the most thorough DIY of these parts out there. For people reading these comments, the clutch line is optional to put on. No matter what, get the supports on there asap even if you don't want to bleed/swap a line do that later if you have too. Perrin just threw it in the box to mark up$$ the aluminum stuff even more lol but its worth doing also to take advantage of the new engagement of the driveline connecting to your leg w stiffer mounts. Factory line has a limiter in it to prevent clutch drops causing shock (protect Subaru for warranty) but your clutch engagement will have more feedback w new open line.
05EVORS The brake line is not optional! Factory lines are in the way of the brace!?!?! Don't give ppl bad info bro
thats one of the best DIYs i ever seen. i hope to get one of these sometime.
Thanks LastHumansGrage!
Wish I had watched this video before I did the install of the brace 2 years ago. I messed up the first rivet nut and the only way to get it off was to push it through the hole into the beam - I guess this is the reason that Perrin stresses to only use aluminum rivet nuts and not stainless steel. Your video gives some very good pointers on how to install the rivet nuts and some good tips for the master cylinder nuts as well (I had to gingerly maneuver it in and out so as not to drop it).
Either way the brace is 100% for everyone that doesn't have the revised bracket and probably a very good idea even for those who have the bracket if they are modding the engine for power and/or are using a much stiffer aftermarket pitch stop.
Awesome install. I still need to get this done.
Thanks!
Great install video, very detailed. One of the mods I want to do. Be great if you guys could do a charge pipe install video but I see the car already has one installed as well:)
Need the trans mount and even worth doing the engine mounts, the old ones will still flex esp now the upper has been stiffened significantly, very nice kit though and good video, installation. 🤙
100% worth doing along with the lower trans mount. Takes a ton of slop out.
NICE DIY INSTALL!!!!!
Thank you! We appreciate the feedback.
Good install, love the videos.
Thanks Zander13!
Very nice vid. Please make more vids like this
love the voice over :joy:
Nice vid bro!
Thanks Nabil!
Are you using a washer while installing the rivets?
Will this support work on a 08 wrx?
is this a necessary upgrade for the 2018s and up?
That's also my question. Did you find out please?
@@Iceman78ize no. It isnt.
Detailed install! Is there a noticeable difference before and after the pitch stop mount install as far as motor movement and does the brace add to that reduction?
Thanks 3 D! The brace will help firm things up but more than anything it supports the factory firewall mount so it is less likely to brake under stress. The actual pitch stop mount provides the firmness but the brace supports it. You could run just the brace with the factory pitch stop mount but I wouldn't run the perrin pitch stop mount without the brace.
It definitely stiffens up the front end a bit. I've noticed a significant amount of NVH, however. Mostly due to the engine cover and one of the breather hoses rattling in the engine bay. I think I'm going to get the stiffer motor mounts as well.
what torque wrench did you use?
seems like over kill for a street car, I can see the necessity for a track car though. I dont see how a stiffer pitch stop will help the mount from breaking, I would think it would have the opposite affect and I wonder if there is a difference in nvh.
The stiffer pitch stop mount doesn't help the mount from breaking at all (in fact it's recommended to stick with the factory pitch stop mount UNLESS you have the pitch stop brace). We installed the stiffer mount because now that we have the brace we don't run the risk of breaking it.
We hope that helps clear it up a little. There will be no change in NHV with just the brace and very minimal with the pitch stop mount. When changing gears, accelerating and downshifting, the engine jerks noticeably less now. It's not a night and day difference but certainly noticeable. We are also running a stiffer trans mount which helped quite a bit.
thank you for clearing that up, seems to be a well thought out product.
At what point does the clutch peddle come back on its own? Watching the video the clutch peddle always stayed on the floor and had to be pulled back with his hand. Thanks
Hey Bart, when bleeding the clutch you are relieving the pressure during the bleeding process. When it is completed and you close the bleed screw the function should return to normal.
Hey @subiebros one of the issues I've been hearing lately is that their is chance that this could prevent one issue with pitch stop mount breaking, but then causing the firewall to have failure. Thoughts?
UCCRacing this is true, that's why you should definitely consider the brace first then the pitch stop mount is optional. We don't recommend running the mount without the brace because of this. The brace will heavily reduce the chance of firewall failure.
Good to know. I just have heard people say that it the brace potentially could make things even worse. Such a hard decision!
So is the clutch line swap optional? Or does it make clearance for the brace??
Looks optional to me.
The reservoir that is used for the brakes is the same for the clutch?
Yes.
What happens if you install this with a damaged pitch stop brace?
Unfortunately once it’s damaged the only way to fix it is to remove the old bracket and weld in the revised bracket from Subaru.
does the whole car start shaking when the mount breaks?
Most people find out because the engine will “knock” against the firewall making a banging or ticking noise.
What's the size the for the clear hose that you used when you're bleeding the clutch?
I believe it's 1/8" ID. We had to heat it up a bit to get it to stretch. If you order through us we can provide it at no additional cost.
4:02 anyone else notice he broke the tabs for the engine cover? 😂
You caught me :) it was hard to not curse in the moment (this prompted the Perrin engine lockdown kit video shortly after)
What top mount is that? Killer bee I'm guessing?
You are correct, Killer B.
The only thing that I do not like about this kit is it requires the re-use of the banjo washers. I have not done this install and do not know what material the banjo washers are made of but most that I have seen are copper. Every time the washers are used they deform a little and may leak. Banjo washers a cheap from the part store. There is no reason Perrin should not include these.
Thanks for the feedback Casper, we will pass this along to Perrin. Also we may add them to the kit ourselves, along with a small piece of clear tubing for the bleeding process.
anti seize