I just got a pair of crestas off Ebay for $50!! Worn once and just need a polishing the guy told me. 50 is a steal for these boots! I've been wanting to try this type of hiking boot since I was a kid. I'm about to be 35 and am just now trying a pair. I almost went with a pair of asolos but I keep hearing and seeing bad things about the soles coming apart not long into having them. I read through the comments on a video and people were talking about ll bean cresta hiking boots and how they're better than the asolos so I started looking into those instead. So glad I decided to read through the comments. Thank you for this video now I know how to fix them if even needed. I wouldn't went with contact cement but it would've been a pain to get it in between the rubber and leather and let it dry some before attaching them. Can't wait to finally try them! Will need some breaking in but that shouldn't be an issue. How have the insides of yours been? I've seen some people say the inside material pills up tears apart after a while. Thanks again and have a great day! *EDIT* The boots came in and they are amazing! They really are practically brand new! Not even broken in yet. So stiff! I put my insoles in them and wow! About to treat them with some obenaufs heavy duty lp. Can't wait to wear these babies!
I can tell you three valuable words i was told by the folks at Limmer Boots. "Wax makes cracks." Get yourself a wax free leather grease and your leather will last decades. Ken said there was one thing in common with the people getting 20+ year old boots re-soled. They dont put wax based product on them. It seals up the pores in the leather and over time the oils cant penetrate and condition. so your boots form cracks at the flex points from drying out internally and becoming brittle.
i know that this is mostly for functionality but when sealing off the boot i like to place a piece of tape about 3 quarters of an inch above the border between the sole and the leather. Then i smear the sealer. When you remove the tape it gives it a more uniform look so that you can still take some pride in the aesthetics of your boots.
Nice little instruction video. I like the idea of using a q-tip with alcohol to clean the sole/boot joint. Thanks for the ideas and I might try those Granger products. My leather re-conditioners never seem to get well into the leather and waterproofing doesn't last.
Thank you! And yes, it's sometimes irritating how short a time aftermarket conditioners last. We've learned the hard way that we SHOULDN'T be lazy and should stay ahead of the problem (but that doesn't mean we've learned enough to do what we should).
Great idea, Cleav! We often use an air compressor to clean gunk out of our drivetrains after mountain bike and cyclocross rides; wash the thing down, then blow out the mud before resorting to a brush, and it gets cleaner and we throw away fewer brushes. Next time we're working on a rand like that, we'll give it a try.
Cliff, thanks for the positive comments! The bracelet is a Road ID; given all the stupid things I do to myself, I figure I'd better always have something on that allows people to know who to call if they find me face-down in a snowdrift or something. If you're interested, there's an article on EasternSlopes about it (Road ID: It's Not Just For Cycling Anymore). Check it out! Best, David
Baz- That's correct, as long as the gap isn't TOO big. If you try to pull the rubber in, it'll try to separate again the first time the boot gets wet and dries; if you just fill the gap, then the rubber is in its natural "resting place", and the repair will last longer. Yes, you can tape it, but not too tight. If the gap is so big that it creates a big shelf, yes, try to pull it in with tape and hope the repair lasts...otherwise, it'll have a tendency to catch on things. Hope that's useful!
You ever try Sno Seal? That is what I used in the military for years till retirement. It is the best in rain, sand, snow. Try it and tell me what you think.
DT, for smooth full-grain leather the best product we've found so far is the Granger's Paste Wax. It goes deeper into the leather than most things we've tried, without needing to be put in the oven (which is a chancy thing; it's easy to overheat it and damage the sole or insole).
In re-dyeing leather car seats it is recommended that, in order to get the conditioners and silicones out of the material, you use a laquer thinner. While this sound harsh it does strip most everything away. I have dyed my own boots but stripped them first with a water-based degreaser. They came out very nice even though they looked horrible once stripped. Check out some automotive leather re-coloring vids. Your mistake may not be as permanent as you think.
We've used Sno Seal for years; great for waterproofing, but has 2 drawbacks. First is that to get it to absorb well, you need to warm the boots. That's somewhat of a PITA but also an opportunity to damage the boots. Done carefully, it's not a problem, but a lot of people turn the oven on low, stick the boots in, and end up with a melted toe box, rand, or other issue.The other problem is that modern boot soles are glued on, and once the leather has been Sno Sealed, they can't be resoled.
Igor, we're hikers, not fashion models, and it shows in the way we use glue, thread, you name it. Feel free to take the time to make your boots pretty...but we know that ours are going to get wet, beaten up, and look worse no matter what we do! So, our goal is to make them functional...and that's exactly what the video shows!
First thing I swap out on my boots is the laces, replace with Paracord. Will not break and even if the cover breaks while your on a trail the strand will hold long enough for you to get home. Person Experience
Shag, we've used Nikwax for a variety of things over the years, and we certainly wouldn't recommend against people using them. The Grainger's is the best we've found yet for smooth leather, but we haven't tried every product on the market; there's always something new that might be better! Either way, the process remains the same...use it with good products, and you'll extend the life of your boots.
Quick question for all the pros - I bought a pair of North Face Ballard boots, look and feel good - but...should I spend a little more and get a pair of Danner Mountain Light II boots??? I am looking for durability and be able to re-sole the boots at least twice before dumping them. The NF Ballards just feel like they could only handle climbing stairs at the mall....it is my first pair though. Thanks!
Nice video, however people who don't have a boot drier (3'40") might be tempted to dry the boots on a radiator which would be the worst thing to do. The leather is likely to go hard and crack. Allowing the boots to dry naturally takes longer but is surely the best way to dry boots after cleaning.
I have my leather boots (timberland) and they have become super dry to the point that they look like if i rubbed them of anything they would flake, all cracks and stuff , also pieces of the leather have turned a way lighter colour than the original and some parts of the leather have just swollen, now ive used leather wax to waterproof, i have a leather cleaner and just after getting a leather polisher and nothing is stopping the leather becoming so dry and distorted, i used news paper to reshape
Did not know that: "The other problem is that modern boot soles are glued on, and once the leather has been Sno Sealed, they can't be resoled." Thanks for the info.
Not wanting to be argumentative, but, how does applying that cleaner and then letting it dry, clean the boot? Did you leave out a step or something? It appeared you put this magic stuff on and it made dirt and funk just disappear. Apologies, but I feel like I missed something.
Basically, applying the cleaner gets rid of any dirt, dust, gunk that is on the boot, which means that the leather is totally clean, and ready for the second product to be put on. That second product won't work properly unless the leather is perfectly clean. The second product makes most of the difference visually, as it soaks into the unclogged pores of the leather to moisten and protect it.
But it was just applied and left. It was not shown to be wiped off or scrubbed off. Did the dirt and gunk just disappear because you put on the stuff? Do you see what I am asking? Was a step omitted, I guess is what I am asking?
You must have missed the part where he says you put on the cleaner, wait a bit and then rinse it off in the sink. After that is done, you let it dry and put the second product on.
fajitaboys I watched it again and tried to stay alert through the whole part we are talking about. You are absolutely correct, you did say to wash it off. Not sure how much real dirt and crud that took off but that's your product. You know that this has all been done before, of course. Nothing new under the sun? Except for a miracle product now and then, but that stuff isn't it. You and I come from completely different worlds of leather work. That is a natural fact. You are overthinking this stuff but I think that is the part you like. I have seen this (to me) phenomenon before, and it is quite amazing from an old cowboy's point of view. Keep on doing the difficult, time concentric things you are doing, I sure do not know a thing about ski boots per se. But I know about leather and you are just messing around because you enjoy it. Nothing wrong with that, but don' confuse that with knowing what is going on with hard used leather.
@rainbowalleycat Good call! Here in the East, we don't have a huge amount of rock (unless you're in the White Mountains), and since we're antisocial by nature, much of our hiking is true backcountry...nice, soft duff, pine needles, you name it. We get more mud than rocks, which explains why the rand separates; wet/dry cycles expand and contract the leather, pulling it away from the rubber over time. Thanks for taking the time to notice the details!!!
Brother what are some brands to look for when I go to the thrift store . I would love to find some lighter weight boots . I recently took up sewing and am not afraid to sew with AWL either .
How do u like the crestas? I have never owned a pair and im not near a ll bean store to try them. Im normally a size 9 1/2 wide. How did you do your feet sizing? Any information would be helpful thanks
To clean all the sediment from the rubber/sole area try using an air gun from an air compressor. If the air gun has a fine tube end-even better. Be careful-USE EYE PROTECTION! That sediment shoots out as fast as the air goes in. Anything that can come loose will.
Somewhat surprised you aren't using any of the Nikwax products ? Have used most of the cleaners & treatments over many decades but they've all been the ones that the better or larger Outdoor Retailers sell like REI, etc. Also surprised that seam-sealing appears to have fallen out of favor ? Used to use an industrial type of neoprene cement that went on as a thick, viscous yet easy to apply "gel" that never ran & adhered like it was Barge Cement ! When it cured, it had magically shrunk ! .
Hi. I purchased a pair of Brown Brasher Mens Country Master walking boots. Absoloutly love them. I was polishing them with transparent bitumen until a certain person told me to put leg oil on them. I can see it wrecked the waterproof layer on the boot and it really softened it up. I'm very dissapointed about it. Is there any way to fix the problem? What could you recommend me to do? Thanks a lot, Paul
The back half of the outsole on one of my Bean's 10 year old Cresta boots has completely separated from the midsole. I've had it repaired (glued) by the cobbler twice & it hasn't held. Do you think Freesole will do the trick?
Mal, if anything will do it, Freesole is likely your best bet. The biggest problem is to get all of the old glue off and both the outsole and the midsole clean; otherwise, the Freesole will stick to the old glue and pull it away from the boot, and you'll have the same problem all over again. Good luck!
I want to remove a rubber logo that's been sewn onto a leather boot, but I'm unsure if it's also been glued on. Is it standard practice to both sew and glue these logos for double adhesion? Thanks in advance.
Honestly, no idea! You'll likely find out once you start removing the stitches (we'd recommend trying a standard sewing seam ripper first, as you're less likely to cut the leather than with a knife). Good luck!
Doug, it's hard to say without seeing it, but we've had generally good luck with Shoe Goo for filling gaps (and not just in footwear). Clean the area well with alcohol before you put it in. If it's an area that has a lot of flex, that might not work, but it's a cheap and effective solution...you might have to re-do it off and on, but a tube of the stuff lasts a long time. If you want a solution that LOOKS better, we'd say to go talk to a cobbler; they might have better ideas.
Shielz, if water harms leather, our boots are history. Seriously, while water will damage leather long term, which is why we treat them, using it to clean the boots so you can apply waterproofing is fine (we're talking hiking boots here, remember, not someone's favorite dress shoes). Clean, let the boots FULLY dry, then apply the waterproofing.
Gob, that unfinished one looks better than a lot of our boots...it's hard to get people to stop using their boots long enough to actually FIX them. Luckily, we never claimed to be pretty! (And you wondered why we don't show our faces in videos...)
Do you think the same process will work on Cowboy boots?...I spilt paint on them today at work, then i did something really stupid. I tried to clean them with paint thinner, they aren't so pretty anymore.
@@karinlarsen2608 the cow was also alive at that point. Water is not good for leather it dries it out. A little water isnt bad as long as you're conditioning after to resupply the leather with the oils that have been stripped out. Too much water tho is bad. Don't wanna go soaking the leather
We hate to admit it, but we don't know how to solve that problem, other than what you see in the video. But, that's with a very hard surface leather; if you have something softer, I'm afraid you're just going to have to call it "patina"...you know, sort of like how antiques have their dings and dents. And hey, look at it as a badge of honor...you actually use your boots hard, rather than wearing them to look cool at Starbucks!
+Ikkaku572 Your smartest move is probably to take it to a cobbler and see what they recommend. However, short of that, we would probably make sure that they're very dry, and then use Freesole; work it into the puncture and seal around it. If your cobble has a better solution, please pass it along...we'd love to know about it!
I have had bottles with various products such as the blessed one you have and they are never as effective as intended . I usually do as u and squeeze bottle and then I have some small circular brushes and other brushes that I will use accordingly
That's a Road ID...great thing to have if you do things that are likely to have you unconscious in a ditch, and hoping that the EMTs know how to get you home!
No do not pull the inner strands out..that is cordage that can be used if you find yourself needing some in a situation. You can then pull individual strands out and still have a lace for your boot:) Besides the strands make it stronger as you well know
Move On People!! Ten minutes of Crap and Stories!! I did not see him do A Single Thing!!! There Is NO Actual Information Here!!.... Do Yourself a Favor!!
Hmm...there just may be times it's not worth repairing your boots...and this may be one of them! Check out the review of the Wengers on our website for a great budget choice; it sounds like you've definitely earned a new pair of boots, and with backpacking season here, those don't require a lot of break-in. Good luck!
Good resource. A few more for hikers with these issues... www.amazon.com/The-5-Minute-Plantar-Fasciitis-Solution/dp/1598585517/ref=pd_sim_b_36?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JPP6WHBXVZP93QTT28Y www.amazon.com/Treat-Your-Own-Achilles-Tendinitis/dp/1457510928/ref=pd_sim_b_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Y652ZN907P2M7W5VZC4
You never demonstrated putting the cleaner, glue, or the protector products on or what to do after you put them on? How did you get the dirt off the shoes; just run water over them or scrub them? I wanted to see a video - a demonstration of how to apply, take off, ect. This is more of an audio, which I felt was too long and boring. I need to see the freesole or shoe goo applied because I have no idea how long it takes or how hard it is to put it on correctly; how much working time do you have; can you smooth it out after applying; do you apply it all at once, or in sections?. I "assume" it must be difficult because you did not show how to apply anything and to be honest, your glue looks awful.
None whatsoever. There are probably solvents that would work, but we'd be afraid to get them near our leather or rubber soles. As our intrepid videographer says, "why should my boots look better than I do?" If the glue didn't block moisture transport from inside, we'd probably smear it over the whole boot for REALLY good protection...now, THAT would be ugly!
I'm sorry but L. L. Bean boots aren't high quality - it just a foreign made boot with a name associated with quality. That's why the sole separated from the boot. Buy a pair of Chippewa boots. Their US made boots are truly high quality. Plus, you don't pay for the name like L.L. Bean - you pay for quality.
Beeswax is good for the stichings Like any other kesther wax. As you better Not treat leather, which got modern leather tanning, with leather-oil too often, beeswax is the Alternative to Lanolin (Wool Grease). Lanolin is a leather softener and degrades the structure of Elastomers and Material in use at shoes which are glued or dye-injected. Lanolin was/is okay for Double-stiched and frame-stiched footwear. These are framend and stiched, while the glued Outsole is Not that critical. So beeswax is the solution but creates Problems as Well. 1. Beeswax is Wax and Not Grease. Leather Grease Like silicon oil protects leather tanning and the original waterproofing from being washed Out. The Same with the Treatment with Wax. 2. If the leather got vegan tanning you should Not apply Emulgators. Beeswax includes Emulgators. Lecithin iscthe emulgator at beeswax. Lecithin even attracts wetness. Beeswax offers a water-repelling but Not really protection in wet and humid conditions. 3. At any Kind of leather you should protect the leather tanning and original waterproofing from being washed Out. The good ingridient of beeswax is the Paraffin. Several herbal waxes do have parrafines as Well. Holmenkol Natural Active Wax is 100% pure herbal waxes, which a good Level of waterproofing by Natural parrafines. Compatible to any Kind of Material. You can even treat Ripstop, Mesh, Canvas, etc.. and Not leather only. At Nubuk-Leather it is usual that you give colour Back by coloured Creme before the Treatment with e.g. Wax. You can offer some Sil-Proof (original waterproofing at Alt-Berg, Scarpa, Zamberlan, Meindl and Combat Boot of the Bundeswehr) with the Original Leather Grease of the Bundeswehr. Do Not use too much as Lanolin is in use as Leather Grease as Sil-Proof is a Leather Grease tanning. It incl. also Wax for the stichings. If the recipe would habe Wax and the silicon-compound only the Wax would Push Out the Grease of the original leather Grease tanning. A Boot which is still leather Grease tanned ist Dogwalker by BAAK Producer by Grisport in Italy. Grisport is also producing Mountaineering Boots for DECATHLON. The Dogwalker Boots are with Sympatex instead of Gore-Tex. Grisport is implemrenting an welded bootie instead of a stiched and sealed bootie.
Depends on the dryer! If the temperature is too high, it's a horrible thing to do; if it isn't, it will gently and fully dry the boot, which is a lot better than leaving moisture in place to cause mold, fungus, bacteria, pick your favorite nastiness. Also, remember that with permeable membranes, water doesn't travel through, only water vapor, so if you leave your boots/gloves wet, they'll often stay that way, which is even worse. We've trusted DryGuy products for years; they run at 105 degrees, which is warm enough to dry the boots without doing any damage.
David - cut back on the mumbling my brother.... in fact, too much yapping and very little action. So cut back on the talking, I got tired of listening to your voice so I switched...too much unnecessary information!
Theoretically, yes, but a quick application like that isn't going to do any damage, and to our minds it's much more important to make sure that the surfaces are totally clean and free from grease so that the Freesole adheres fully. There are probably other cleaner/degreasers that would work as well or better, but rubbing alcohol works great, is cheap, and is always around, so it's what we use!
I just got a pair of crestas off Ebay for $50!! Worn once and just need a polishing the guy told me. 50 is a steal for these boots! I've been wanting to try this type of hiking boot since I was a kid. I'm about to be 35 and am just now trying a pair. I almost went with a pair of asolos but I keep hearing and seeing bad things about the soles coming apart not long into having them. I read through the comments on a video and people were talking about ll bean cresta hiking boots and how they're better than the asolos so I started looking into those instead. So glad I decided to read through the comments. Thank you for this video now I know how to fix them if even needed. I wouldn't went with contact cement but it would've been a pain to get it in between the rubber and leather and let it dry some before attaching them. Can't wait to finally try them! Will need some breaking in but that shouldn't be an issue. How have the insides of yours been? I've seen some people say the inside material pills up tears apart after a while. Thanks again and have a great day!
*EDIT*
The boots came in and they are amazing! They really are practically brand new! Not even broken in yet. So stiff! I put my insoles in them and wow! About to treat them with some obenaufs heavy duty lp. Can't wait to wear these babies!
I can tell you three valuable words i was told by the folks at Limmer Boots. "Wax makes cracks." Get yourself a wax free leather grease and your leather will last decades. Ken said there was one thing in common with the people getting 20+ year old boots re-soled. They dont put wax based product on them. It seals up the pores in the leather and over time the oils cant penetrate and condition. so your boots form cracks at the flex points from drying out internally and becoming brittle.
What a great video. And what great comments and ideas your viewers have shared. Time well spent
I work at Grangers International and I can sincerely say that the quality control of all their products is second to none.
i know that this is mostly for functionality but when sealing off the boot i like to place a piece of tape about 3 quarters of an inch above the border between the sole and the leather. Then i smear the sealer. When you remove the tape it gives it a more uniform look so that you can still take some pride in the aesthetics of your boots.
Nice little instruction video. I like the idea of using a q-tip with alcohol to clean the sole/boot joint. Thanks for the ideas and I might try those Granger products. My leather re-conditioners never seem to get well into the leather and waterproofing doesn't last.
Thank you! And yes, it's sometimes irritating how short a time aftermarket conditioners last. We've learned the hard way that we SHOULDN'T be lazy and should stay ahead of the problem (but that doesn't mean we've learned enough to do what we should).
Great idea, Cleav! We often use an air compressor to clean gunk out of our drivetrains after mountain bike and cyclocross rides; wash the thing down, then blow out the mud before resorting to a brush, and it gets cleaner and we throw away fewer brushes. Next time we're working on a rand like that, we'll give it a try.
Cliff, thanks for the positive comments! The bracelet is a Road ID; given all the stupid things I do to myself, I figure I'd better always have something on that allows people to know who to call if they find me face-down in a snowdrift or something. If you're interested, there's an article on EasternSlopes about it (Road ID: It's Not Just For Cycling Anymore). Check it out! Best, David
Baz-
That's correct, as long as the gap isn't TOO big. If you try to pull the rubber in, it'll try to separate again the first time the boot gets wet and dries; if you just fill the gap, then the rubber is in its natural "resting place", and the repair will last longer. Yes, you can tape it, but not too tight. If the gap is so big that it creates a big shelf, yes, try to pull it in with tape and hope the repair lasts...otherwise, it'll have a tendency to catch on things. Hope that's useful!
You ever try Sno Seal? That is what I used in the military for years till retirement. It is the best in rain, sand, snow. Try it and tell me what you think.
wow thats a really neat glue job! any tips on how to remove the excess please.
DT, for smooth full-grain leather the best product we've found so far is the Granger's Paste Wax. It goes deeper into the leather than most things we've tried, without needing to be put in the oven (which is a chancy thing; it's easy to overheat it and damage the sole or insole).
In re-dyeing leather car seats it is recommended that, in order to get the conditioners and silicones out of the material, you use a laquer thinner. While this sound harsh it does strip most everything away. I have dyed my own boots but stripped them first with a water-based degreaser. They came out very nice even though they looked horrible once stripped. Check out some automotive leather re-coloring vids. Your mistake may not be as permanent as you think.
We've used Sno Seal for years; great for waterproofing, but has 2 drawbacks. First is that to get it to absorb well, you need to warm the boots. That's somewhat of a PITA but also an opportunity to damage the boots. Done carefully, it's not a problem, but a lot of people turn the oven on low, stick the boots in, and end up with a melted toe box, rand, or other issue.The other problem is that modern boot soles are glued on, and once the leather has been Sno Sealed, they can't be resoled.
Great vid... Thanks so much!!!
Can I use the products on new boots for prevention?
Oh man I'm so glad you showed to finished one :)
We've used Shoe Goo for years, too...and actually did the OTHER boot shown with it instead of Freesole. We'll see how they both survive over time.
Igor, we're hikers, not fashion models, and it shows in the way we use glue, thread, you name it. Feel free to take the time to make your boots pretty...but we know that ours are going to get wet, beaten up, and look worse no matter what we do! So, our goal is to make them functional...and that's exactly what the video shows!
First thing I swap out on my boots is the laces, replace with Paracord. Will not break and even if the cover breaks while your on a trail the strand will hold long enough for you to get home. Person Experience
What kind of bracelet is that? I really like the look and cant find it. Thank you and great video.
Shag, we've used Nikwax for a variety of things over the years, and we certainly wouldn't recommend against people using them. The Grainger's is the best we've found yet for smooth leather, but we haven't tried every product on the market; there's always something new that might be better! Either way, the process remains the same...use it with good products, and you'll extend the life of your boots.
Quick question for all the pros - I bought a pair of North Face Ballard boots, look and feel good - but...should I spend a little more and get a pair of Danner Mountain Light II boots??? I am looking for durability and be able to re-sole the boots at least twice before dumping them. The NF Ballards just feel like they could only handle climbing stairs at the mall....it is my first pair though. Thanks!
Nice video, however people who don't have a boot drier (3'40") might be tempted to dry the boots on a radiator which would be the worst thing to do. The leather is likely to go hard and crack. Allowing the boots to dry naturally takes longer but is surely the best way to dry boots after cleaning.
I have my leather boots (timberland) and they have become super dry to the point that they look like if i rubbed them of anything they would flake, all cracks and stuff , also pieces of the leather have turned a way lighter colour than the original and some parts of the leather have just swollen, now ive used leather wax to waterproof, i have a leather cleaner and just after getting a leather polisher and nothing is stopping the leather becoming so dry and distorted, i used news paper to reshape
I would try saturating them in neatsfoot oil
Did not know that: "The other problem is that modern boot soles are glued on, and once the leather has been Sno Sealed, they can't be resoled." Thanks for the info.
Not wanting to be argumentative, but, how does applying that cleaner and then letting it dry, clean the boot? Did you leave out a step or something? It appeared you put this magic stuff on and it made dirt and funk just disappear. Apologies, but I feel like I missed something.
Basically, applying the cleaner gets rid of any dirt, dust, gunk that is on the boot, which means that the leather is totally clean, and ready for the second product to be put on. That second product won't work properly unless the leather is perfectly clean. The second product makes most of the difference visually, as it soaks into the unclogged pores of the leather to moisten and protect it.
But it was just applied and left. It was not shown to be wiped off or scrubbed off. Did the dirt and gunk just disappear because you put on the stuff? Do you see what I am asking? Was a step omitted, I guess is what I am asking?
You must have missed the part where he says you put on the cleaner, wait a bit and then rinse it off in the sink.
After that is done, you let it dry and put the second product on.
fajitaboys I watched it again and tried to stay alert through the whole part we are talking about. You are absolutely correct, you did say to wash it off. Not sure how much real dirt and crud that took off but that's your product. You know that this has all been done before, of course. Nothing new under the sun? Except for a miracle product now and then, but that stuff isn't it.
You and I come from completely different worlds of leather work. That is a natural fact. You are overthinking this stuff but I think that is the part you like. I have seen this (to me) phenomenon before, and it is quite amazing from an old cowboy's point of view. Keep on doing the difficult, time concentric things you are doing, I sure do not know a thing about ski boots per se. But I know about leather and you are just messing around because you enjoy it. Nothing wrong with that, but don' confuse that with knowing what is going on with hard used leather.
@rainbowalleycat Good call! Here in the East, we don't have a huge amount of rock (unless you're in the White Mountains), and since we're antisocial by nature, much of our hiking is true backcountry...nice, soft duff, pine needles, you name it. We get more mud than rocks, which explains why the rand separates; wet/dry cycles expand and contract the leather, pulling it away from the rubber over time. Thanks for taking the time to notice the details!!!
Brother what are some brands to look for when I go to the thrift store . I would love to find some lighter weight boots . I recently took up sewing and am not afraid to sew with AWL either .
How do u like the crestas? I have never owned a pair and im not near a ll bean store to try them. Im normally a size 9 1/2 wide. How did you do your feet sizing? Any information would be helpful thanks
which product are you using to enhance waterproofing
To clean all the sediment from the rubber/sole area try using an air gun from an air compressor. If the air gun has a fine tube end-even better. Be careful-USE EYE PROTECTION! That sediment shoots out as fast as the air goes in. Anything that can come loose will.
Hi...have you trid the boot guard from LLbean. Let me know if that would work on this boot?
What about the bend flex points leather can crack split
Somewhat surprised you aren't using any of the Nikwax products ? Have used most of the cleaners & treatments over many decades but they've all been the ones that the better or larger Outdoor Retailers sell like REI, etc. Also surprised that seam-sealing appears to have fallen out of favor ? Used to use an industrial type of neoprene cement that went on as a thick, viscous yet easy to apply "gel" that never ran & adhered like it was Barge Cement ! When it cured, it had magically shrunk !
.
Hi. I purchased a pair of Brown Brasher Mens Country Master walking boots. Absoloutly love them. I was polishing them with transparent bitumen until a certain person told me to put leg oil on them. I can see it wrecked the waterproof layer on the boot and it really softened it up. I'm very dissapointed about it. Is there any way to fix the problem? What could you recommend me to do? Thanks a lot, Paul
I've used mink oil
The back half of the outsole on one of my Bean's 10 year old Cresta boots has completely separated from the midsole. I've had it repaired (glued) by the cobbler twice & it hasn't held. Do you think Freesole will do the trick?
Mal, if anything will do it, Freesole is likely your best bet. The biggest problem is to get all of the old glue off and both the outsole and the midsole clean; otherwise, the Freesole will stick to the old glue and pull it away from the boot, and you'll have the same problem all over again. Good luck!
James, we have to admit that we haven't tried fixing a paint disaster! Let us know how it goes, though...other viewers may have the same problem.
I want to remove a rubber logo that's been sewn onto a leather boot, but I'm unsure if it's also been glued on. Is it standard practice to both sew and glue these logos for double adhesion? Thanks in advance.
Honestly, no idea! You'll likely find out once you start removing the stitches (we'd recommend trying a standard sewing seam ripper first, as you're less likely to cut the leather than with a knife). Good luck!
thank you
I have a gouge in the leather in the toe of my Redwing boot, not all the way through. What is your best advice for a repair of that?
Doug, it's hard to say without seeing it, but we've had generally good luck with Shoe Goo for filling gaps (and not just in footwear). Clean the area well with alcohol before you put it in. If it's an area that has a lot of flex, that might not work, but it's a cheap and effective solution...you might have to re-do it off and on, but a tube of the stuff lasts a long time. If you want a solution that LOOKS better, we'd say to go talk to a cobbler; they might have better ideas.
Odwalla-
We haven't run into those products before, but we'll see what we can find out...if we try them, we'll let you know!
Best,
The ES Team
Have You Ever tried Leather Masters Products?If you have I would like to know how you liked them?
1 and half mins on laces and tea
Boot dryer!!?
Wash the popsicle sticks!
Glue everywhere
Excellent refurbishing.
Would you recommend shoe goo?
Difficult to resole these ones, nice job man, hope your shoes will live a thousand years more ;)
Shielz, if water harms leather, our boots are history. Seriously, while water will damage leather long term, which is why we treat them, using it to clean the boots so you can apply waterproofing is fine (we're talking hiking boots here, remember, not someone's favorite dress shoes). Clean, let the boots FULLY dry, then apply the waterproofing.
plz tell me how to fix cut on school shoes
Gob, that unfinished one looks better than a lot of our boots...it's hard to get people to stop using their boots long enough to actually FIX them. Luckily, we never claimed to be pretty! (And you wondered why we don't show our faces in videos...)
Do you think the same process will work on Cowboy boots?...I spilt paint on them today at work, then i did something really stupid. I tried to clean them with paint thinner, they aren't so pretty anymore.
My daughter was Rodeo royalty. They taught us to use spray paint to make the boots match the top. Could that help you?
Is it ok to wash leather boots with warm water then dry excess and cover the boot with leather wax??? or does water harm leather?
Lots of rain never bothered the cow those boots were made of
@@karinlarsen2608 the cow was also alive at that point. Water is not good for leather it dries it out. A little water isnt bad as long as you're conditioning after to resupply the leather with the oils that have been stripped out. Too much water tho is bad. Don't wanna go soaking the leather
Great video, many thanks
i love my boots but the siding looks awful ... its that soft material that gashes and gets cut easy ... how do you repair it ? same method ?
We hate to admit it, but we don't know how to solve that problem, other than what you see in the video. But, that's with a very hard surface leather; if you have something softer, I'm afraid you're just going to have to call it "patina"...you know, sort of like how antiques have their dings and dents. And hey, look at it as a badge of honor...you actually use your boots hard, rather than wearing them to look cool at Starbucks!
Fun fact #237: The little plastic/bound ends of shoelaces are called, 'aglets'.
what kind of waterproofing are you using?
I know that mink oil works
I have a puncture in my leather boot and water is getting in-between the layers. How do I fix that?
+Ikkaku572 Your smartest move is probably to take it to a cobbler and see what they recommend. However, short of that, we would probably make sure that they're very dry, and then use Freesole; work it into the puncture and seal around it. If your cobble has a better solution, please pass it along...we'd love to know about it!
Where can I find a Cobble in Texas?
Google "shoe and boot repair."
I have had bottles with various products such as the blessed one you have and they are never as effective as intended . I usually do as u and squeeze bottle and then I have some small circular brushes and other brushes that I will use accordingly
That's a Road ID...great thing to have if you do things that are likely to have you unconscious in a ditch, and hoping that the EMTs know how to get you home!
Paracord = Fantastic laces..if they somehow begin to fray..just heat and melt..:)
Scotty, that's a great idea! We'll definitely give it a try. Thanks!
no problem:)
No do not pull the inner strands out..that is cordage that can be used if you find yourself needing some in a situation. You can then pull individual strands out and still have a lace for your boot:) Besides the strands make it stronger as you well know
Move On People!! Ten minutes of Crap and Stories!! I did not see him do A Single Thing!!! There Is NO Actual Information Here!!.... Do Yourself a Favor!!
Hmm...there just may be times it's not worth repairing your boots...and this may be one of them! Check out the review of the Wengers on our website for a great budget choice; it sounds like you've definitely earned a new pair of boots, and with backpacking season here, those don't require a lot of break-in. Good luck!
It's when they feel so good on the inside, I'm breaking in new boots is always a pain. I believe in Saving the Beloved
would it work if i replace a german leather shoe
Good resource. A few more for hikers with these issues...
www.amazon.com/The-5-Minute-Plantar-Fasciitis-Solution/dp/1598585517/ref=pd_sim_b_36?ie=UTF8&refRID=0JPP6WHBXVZP93QTT28Y
www.amazon.com/Treat-Your-Own-Achilles-Tendinitis/dp/1457510928/ref=pd_sim_b_3?ie=UTF8&refRID=0Y652ZN907P2M7W5VZC4
" ... so the boot looks almost new ..."
er, sorry no it doesn't, it just looks like an old boot with a bodged repair!
I have bleach on my uggs butte boots its leather. Can it be fix?
You never demonstrated putting the cleaner, glue, or the protector products on or what to do after you put them on? How did you get the dirt off the shoes; just run water over them or scrub them? I wanted to see a video - a demonstration of how to apply, take off, ect. This is more of an audio, which I felt was too long and boring. I need to see the freesole or shoe goo applied because I have no idea how long it takes or how hard it is to put it on correctly; how much working time do you have; can you smooth it out after applying; do you apply it all at once, or in sections?. I "assume" it must be difficult because you did not show how to apply anything and to be honest, your glue looks awful.
I've found if you jump into the job, the job will teach you how to do it
None whatsoever. There are probably solvents that would work, but we'd be afraid to get them near our leather or rubber soles. As our intrepid videographer says, "why should my boots look better than I do?" If the glue didn't block moisture transport from inside, we'd probably smear it over the whole boot for REALLY good protection...now, THAT would be ugly!
Just a 10 minute ad for shoe cleaning crap
No COFFEE !! LOL Grab some of those singles filter bag ,just boil water .
I'm sorry but L. L. Bean boots aren't high quality - it just a foreign made boot with a name associated with quality. That's why the sole separated from the boot. Buy a pair of Chippewa boots. Their US made boots are truly high quality. Plus, you don't pay for the name like L.L. Bean - you pay for quality.
what makes you think that because something is made in the U.S. that means it is of high quality ??? lol typical arrogant American !
rob b Because that’s what’s left with American shoe / boot market. Higher quality boots for sale. everything else went off shore long ago.
Fresh, that one's beyond us...our best guess is that you'd have to bleach the whole pair and re-dye them. Good luck!
I recommend using LEATHER ONLY on all your leather! Car, Furniture, Boots, Boats and any other leather items you may have!!!!
thanks
Beeswax is good for the stichings Like any other kesther wax. As you better Not treat leather, which got modern leather tanning, with leather-oil too often, beeswax is the Alternative to Lanolin (Wool Grease). Lanolin is a leather softener and degrades the structure of Elastomers and Material in use at shoes which are glued or dye-injected.
Lanolin was/is okay for Double-stiched and frame-stiched footwear. These are framend and stiched, while the glued Outsole is Not that critical.
So beeswax is the solution but creates Problems as Well.
1. Beeswax is Wax and Not Grease. Leather Grease Like silicon oil protects leather tanning and the original waterproofing from being washed Out. The Same with the Treatment with Wax.
2. If the leather got vegan tanning you should Not apply Emulgators. Beeswax includes Emulgators. Lecithin iscthe emulgator at beeswax. Lecithin even attracts wetness. Beeswax offers a water-repelling but Not really protection in wet and humid conditions.
3. At any Kind of leather you should protect the leather tanning and original waterproofing from being washed Out. The good ingridient of beeswax is the Paraffin. Several herbal waxes do have parrafines as Well.
Holmenkol Natural Active Wax is 100% pure herbal waxes, which a good Level of waterproofing by Natural parrafines. Compatible to any Kind of Material. You can even treat Ripstop, Mesh, Canvas, etc.. and Not leather only.
At Nubuk-Leather it is usual that you give colour Back by coloured Creme before the Treatment with e.g. Wax.
You can offer some Sil-Proof (original waterproofing at Alt-Berg, Scarpa, Zamberlan, Meindl and Combat Boot of the Bundeswehr) with the Original Leather Grease of the Bundeswehr.
Do Not use too much as Lanolin is in use as Leather Grease as Sil-Proof is a Leather Grease tanning.
It incl. also Wax for the stichings. If the recipe would habe Wax and the silicon-compound only the Wax would Push Out the Grease of the original leather Grease tanning.
A Boot which is still leather Grease tanned ist Dogwalker by BAAK Producer by Grisport in Italy.
Grisport is also producing Mountaineering Boots for DECATHLON.
The Dogwalker Boots are with Sympatex instead of Gore-Tex.
Grisport is implemrenting an welded bootie instead of a stiched and sealed bootie.
why such a sloppy job on the glue
Coconut oil melts at room temperature
you don't demonstrate anything in this video.
Never use a dryer...
Depends on the dryer! If the temperature is too high, it's a horrible thing to do; if it isn't, it will gently and fully dry the boot, which is a lot better than leaving moisture in place to cause mold, fungus, bacteria, pick your favorite nastiness. Also, remember that with permeable membranes, water doesn't travel through, only water vapor, so if you leave your boots/gloves wet, they'll often stay that way, which is even worse. We've trusted DryGuy products for years; they run at 105 degrees, which is warm enough to dry the boots without doing any damage.
......those boots have not been abused
David - cut back on the mumbling my brother.... in fact, too much yapping and very little action. So cut back on the talking, I got tired of listening to your voice so I switched...too much unnecessary information!
and tooth sucking. "jzep!"
Uniters S.p.A is the parent company
Alcohol dries out rubber as I remember?
Theoretically, yes, but a quick application like that isn't going to do any damage, and to our minds it's much more important to make sure that the surfaces are totally clean and free from grease so that the Freesole adheres fully. There are probably other cleaner/degreasers that would work as well or better, but rubbing alcohol works great, is cheap, and is always around, so it's what we use!
Oh thanks! :) Keep making good videos
Paracord!
nike is trendy? lmaoooo
In my 35 years of experience as a professional cobbeler,i can only say;shut youre mouth!
jeez ...temper ! ... you obviously didn't spend near as long studying grammar eh ?
Throw them boots in a dumpster and buy some Wescos
VIDEO SHOULD HAVE BEEN CALLED HOW TO BE A CHEAP HIPPIE BUM
You've obviously never had a great pair of boots that feel so good and turn out to be so reliable. Worth saving
@@karinlarsen2608 yeah that was an immature comment, I have a pair now that I need to save and repair
Mmmmm, Fudgecicles!
That's not gunk, it's dirt. (just sayin')
Talk too too much
🤦♂️🤦♂️🤦♂️ too much talking, just go straight to the point dude disliked
Excellent video, thank you.