Equinox head gasket part 2
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 8 ноя 2024
- Continuing engine repair on my friend's Equinox. Just cleaning the gasket surfaces and checking for warpage.
I am not a mechanic. If you choose to attempt these repairs set much time aside and contact a professional if you run into issues. Always follow safe shop practices.
I like the idea of reassembly using anti seize thinking of the next person that has to work on it and making it easier for them. Nice video series. I’m about half way through my 2008 equinox, and find your set of three vids to be the most helpful. Thanks
Just want to say... Thank you, what great job you doing for making and sharing this video.... Gob bless you Sir...
Clean up is just bout most important,, thanks for the videos, I'm getting ready to do same on my 06 Equinox, and it's number 2 cylinder that's getting coolant in it!!
me to same year thinking about just swamping new engine be easier
I guess it's kinda off topic but does anyone know of a good site to stream new tv shows online ?
@Devon Archie flixportal :D
@Leroy Kian thank you, I signed up and it seems like they got a lot of movies there =) Appreciate it!
@Devon Archie you are welcome xD
I get to do this looks like a great time
Good video, very please with info. I'll be doing my son head gaskets tomorrow. I know heads are warp and possibly crack. It ran hot several times. Will put heads in shop to check for cracks/warping.
If you have any doubts about the heads, get them checked. My local parts store has a machine shop they work with, I'm sure others do the same.
I know this is a few years old, but I have found your video series on this engine immensely helpful and I am wondering what tool you used to get at the 2 difficult, rusted nuts securing the main exhaust pipe to the exhaust manifold. It's too tough to wrench or manually socket, especially since the assembly is suspended and shifts when you try to apply force. A standard battery powered impact wrench encounters obstructions in the front without an extension bit and an obstruction in the back or side with an extension bit. I've soaked it with penetrating oil a few times.
I'm assuming you made use of a low-profile impact driver and just a socket or a short impact bit entension w/socket. Do you remember what worked for you in this tight space? I'm getting frustrated crawling under there each time to visualize an unlikely solution and am hoping to have some confidence in purchasing the correct power tool for the task. Thanks for any info in advance and also for the excellent videos!
I don't really remember how I did it. But in general I use thin wall standard sockets and whatever combination of extensions gets me to where a ratchet will fit. Sometimes you can put the box end of a wrench around the bolt then take a punch and hammer to break it free. Hope that helps and good luck.
@SRMWorkshop I appreciate your quick response. I am mildly amused that the one part of the project that is getting the best of me is the final 2 bolts before I proceed to the cleaning and surface prep portion of the job. Such a comical point to encounter a hurdle after all the labor and right on the threshold of moving on to the 2nd phase of the repair. I will maintain my resolve, lol. Thanks again!
@@weatoguegroove3884 if it makes you feel any better, I have a saturn in the garage with a HF 3.6L (dual overhead cam) that is kicking my butt. The worse part is even if I can resurrect it, the engine is total junk with really bad blowby. Some projects just suck.
@SRMWorkshop I feel you. This is a charity project for a disabled elderly neighbor in Los Angeles who is currently fighting eviction. In case she loses her home and needs to sleep in her car I would like it reliably running for her and for communal peace of mind
Was that wet stone you used to clean the head gasket surface on the head?
what is the block you are using for sanding ? and checking for flatness
The block is a large sharpening stone with fine and medium grit sides. They cut much nicer with oil, I was keeping it wet with degreaser. The bar I used for flatness was a 1.500" x 12" aluminum lathe stock I had on hand.
Do you have to worry about anything that falls down into the coolant chamber when cleaning the block?
make sure you fish out any big chunks, but if it gets a lot of contamination just be sure to flush the system out.
@@SRMWorkshop What about the grommets? I have 3 stuck in the heads that just refuse to come out.
Thank you, thank you, thank you.
Great video. Where did you get that honing block?
1, thanks for the upload2. is that SOB still using pushrods ? dang
What cleaning solutions did u use to clean everything, sprays, sand paper grit? Thanks
I just used brake cleaner and some 400 grit sand paper.
TattooPyramidHead hey thank you soo , it all started after i dropped a valve stem into the cylinder while trying to replace a vavle spring, now im just putting all new gaskets!
Even though you found the head gasket to be the culprit, did you check for a cracked head in any way before reassembling everything? I read somewhere that you should never do a head gasket job without checking the heads for cracks, otherwise it could all be a waste of your time.
I did a visual inspection for cracks after carefully cleaning everything. In the case of the one I did, there was a clear breach in the gasket, and the gasket was crumbling away so I was not very worried about a crack.
@@SRMWorkshop
Are cracks easy to spot with the eye? I saw a video recently of a guy using some kind of kit with two spray cans, one can was a penetrating oil of some sort with a dye in it, and the other was called a developer. The penetrating spray goes on first and then you wipe it off good, and then you spray the developer on which turns the head face all white after a while, and if there are cracks they will show up with the penetrating oil bleeding through into the white. I thought it was interesting.
@@jzak5723 they can be hard to see, using an indicating dye would be the best way to go. I took a chance on this one and was looking for any sign of a crack even down to 0.001" wide. But it was all machining marks and raw casting when I was looking really close.
@@SRMWorkshop
Seems like you should be able to see a crack either with the naked eye or even a low power magnifying glass, so I'll probably just go that direction, unless the gaskets themselves appears fine.
@@SRMWorkshop
Finally got all the exhaust bolts loose, now I'm having problem getting the dipstick out tube out of the block, lol! Hoping to take out the heads with the exhaust manifolds attached minus the crossover flex pipe.
How did you clean the oil from the heads. When you remove them from the engine, the are very oily. Did you soak them
Large amounts of brake cleaner
@@SRMWorkshop thanks. Do you know what grit your sanding block is? Also, is that regular WD40 you are using as lubricant?
@@leopalmer1934 I'm not sure what grit, the block has a coarse side and fine side. And any light oil is fine, it's just there to float out all the junk from the stone as you use it.