I noticed the same problem when I first tried to check the air filter when doing PM on a very lightly used L220. Since most people don't have Shaq hands, it seems like most people seem to have the exact same problem trying to get the cap off. Spray a little white lithium grease on your finger and rub a thin layer around the seating edge of the cap before putting it back on and it'll be significantly easier to take off next time. A little will go a long way, so don't overdo it. As far as filters/belts/sensors/fluids go, you'll never go wrong if you go OEM or manufacture recommended straight from your local New Holland rep.
Just bought every filter for my N H from NAPA. Entire oil fuel air filter change with total lube and power wash takes about two hours. I do a total change every two hundred hours. Machine runs great.
I found your video looking to see how to change the hydraulic filter on my son's Case SR220. This definitely is how to not change it. We used a center punch to punch the filter on the base at the bottom, put a pound steel coffee can under the hole and punched a hole in the top. We got over half a can of oil out of the filter and then lost some when we removed the filter. After we got the filter off, there is a plastic catch pan (way too small) with a hose attached to it to catch the oil from the filter.
Sometimes manufacturers have patents or rights to certain filters so the aftermarket cannot make them. Also with engine oil filters, for example, the cartridge types can have slight dimensional differences in aftermarket versus factory so they are not infringing on the rights, and thus allowing the bypass of non filtered oil back into the crankcase.
next time you change your hydraulic filter make a troft out of cardboard and stick that under the filter and put a bucket under the other end that way the oil goes in the cardboard troft and into the bucket instead of all over the inside of your machine
In the future, get the CNH hydraulic filter. It has a square on the end to put a ratchet on to get the old one off. I really do not understand the issues you had, I just changed all the filters on an L228 with 600 hours, which was never touched before, except the air cleaner element knocked out a few times, and it went smoothly.
Pre filling your fuel filter is a bad idea. Your machine has an electric fuel pump that, if you power on your machine without cranking the engine, will fill the filter and purge the air from the system. Filling the filter just introduces contamination to the clean side of the filter.
sorry, but you are wrong. Pre-filling your fuel filter is vital, however you need to only fill using the outside holes, and get fuel from the petcock on the fuel filter housing. This will supply clean and fresh filtered fuel to use. The reason you have to do it on a diesel, is because the fuel injectors on a diesel use the fuel as a lubricating agent. introducing air to a diesel injector immediately damages it. Not to mention the damage that can be dealt to the transfer pump by running air through it. Diesel engines are NOT like gas engines, there is no tolerance for air.
@@makerstories4008 All of the air in the filter gets purged when you run the electric fuel pump (which runs whenever the ignition is on) before cranking the engine. The air would flow out of the filter and into the injection pump then out the injection pump fuel return port and back to tank. What makes you think air would get to the injectors anyway? If any air makes it past the injection pump it will air lock in the injection lines and the engine would stop running.
@@KALI1080 you appear to be confused. Diesel engines use whats called a transfer pump (or HPFP) this pump is almost always mechanically driven by the engine, and not electronically actuated (like a modern gas engine typically would be). as a result, fuel is only moving while the engine is turning. Air wont just magically exit the system when you turn the key to the run position. this is generally the case on engines like the DD13, C15-18, and most heavy equipment such as the DW SK, Yanmar Industrial engines and many other more vague applications (only specified some engines so you can google these part-outs). These types on engines specifically RELY on having solid fuel in the rail to properly lubricate. The only exception to this would be an engine with Oil pressure regulated injectors which will use HPO and IPR to regulate the injector pressure, and supply lubricant to the specialized injectors; this kind of system is usually referred to as a "HEUI". Smaller injectors, such as the ones in this skid, are especially important to fill as the ports and channels in the injector are much smaller. Smaller air pockets can end up doing just as much damage as larger ones. And yes, these engines are entirely fuel regulated and yes, they WILL run away. Its part of the nature of any diesel engine. and its why you never damage the fuel system on a diesel, it could lead to catastrophic damage, injury, and in many documented instances; death.
@@makerstories4008 I have four years in the trade. While I am still an apprentice, I know about many different diesel fuel systems and how they work. HEUI, Mechanical, Unit injection, common rail, indirect injection or power cell, ETC. I've had the opportunity to work on many different diesel engines from brands including IHI shibaura, John Deere, International, Cat, Cummins, FPT, Iveco, Deutz, Perkins, Mitsubishi, Yanmar, LS Mtron, Kubota, Lombardini, ETC. I am not claiming that I am a master mechanic. However, I am no clueless yahoo from teh interwebs. I have done overhauls on these engines (FPT F5C, AKA: FPT F32) and have tested the injectors and timed the injection pump. During my first overhaul of an engine in school, the instructor wanted to make a point to all of the class. He took apart an injector from this engine and lightly, as delicately as he could, marked the needle of the injector with a sharpie marker. Think about how small that mark is. He let me try to put the needle back into the injector nozzle. The needle did not fit with the mark on it. I know how critical the clearances are on diesel fuel systems are in part because of that demonstration. The whole point of my instructors demonstration was to show us how little contamination can cause premature wear. He told us that filling the fuel filters is a bad practice due to the contamination it causes. This engine's fuel system is a fully mechanical Bosch VE distributor pump. Fuel flow from the tank through the injector is as follows: Fuel is sucked from the tank into the lift pump. From the lift pump is flows through the fuel filters and into the inlet of the injection pump. Inside the injection pump is a vane pump (which can be used as a transfer/lift pump) which increases the fuel pressure inside the case of the injection pump. The fuel branches off two ways here. It goes to the fill port on the plunger metering sleeve and reaches a relief valve that bleeds excess fuel off to tank (this is where the air gets out of the system with the electric lift pump running because no fuel will flow through the metering sleeve without the engine running). Once the fuel gets to the plunger, the ports line up and the plunger pumps the fuel to the injector that is lined up.
@@KALI1080 to be honest I don't really give a shit about your experience. Because simply put there is a lot of value placed on figuring shit out for yourself. Especially in this industry. Also you talk about engine precision like it's difficult to pull off. Diesel engines aren't very complicated. If you have been in the industry 4 years you should really know this by now. I'm just telling you what new Holland, John Deere, ditch witch, Toro, yanmar, and Kubota all tell techs to do this. For that reason. Only exception to this is caterpillar, who tells people not to prefill, however even their dealer techs pre-fill because it's stupid not to. Because of this I have a hard time believing that you have 4 years in the trade.
i knew a guy had a newholland ls230 skid steer trying get parts but he couldnt get the same parts because the newholland doesnt sell after market parts wich it was kinda rediculas john deeres are like that too and its good thing my kubota dealer sells kubota after market parts because there still avilable wich it was kinda good and parts wernt to much money wich the parts on kubotas are pretty desent price at my kubota dealer
thats not too good the newhollands dont keep after market parts its like deeres they stoped making after market parts wich the kubotas are keeping there aftermarket parts avaliable with the newer parts wich i find kubota are smart not stop making after market parts wich kubota filters are priced at my dealer at $30.00 to $40.00 wich isnt bad for filters and $25.00 for 10w30 1 gallon jug kubota oil
HAVE OWNED 2 NH SKID STEERS. 90s & 2000 VINTAGES. ALL HORIBLE TO WORK ON. WON'T BE A 3rd ONE...EVER. BOBCAT AND KUBOTA EXCELLENT ACCESS TO EVERYTHING. JUST SAYIN'
I noticed the same problem when I first tried to check the air filter when doing PM on a very lightly used L220. Since most people don't have Shaq hands, it seems like most people seem to have the exact same problem trying to get the cap off. Spray a little white lithium grease on your finger and rub a thin layer around the seating edge of the cap before putting it back on and it'll be significantly easier to take off next time. A little will go a long way, so don't overdo it.
As far as filters/belts/sensors/fluids go, you'll never go wrong if you go OEM or manufacture recommended straight from your local New Holland rep.
Good tip!
Just bought every filter for my N H from NAPA. Entire oil fuel air filter change with total lube and power wash takes about two hours. I do a total change every two hundred hours. Machine runs great.
I guess NAPA is finally allowed to make filters. Two years ago when I made this video, they didn't offer much. Thanks for watching!!
Napa sells all replacement aftermarket filters for new Hollands except the hydraulic filters I have not yet found
if you want send me the model and year I can send you all the part numbers
It is a 2011. Last time I was in my local NAPA (6 months ago), they didn't have any listings for that model.
I found your video looking to see how to change the hydraulic filter on my son's Case SR220. This definitely is how to not change it. We used a center punch to punch the filter on the base at the bottom, put a pound steel coffee can under the hole and punched a hole in the top. We got over half a can of oil out of the filter and then lost some when we removed the filter. After we got the filter off, there is a plastic catch pan (way too small) with a hose attached to it to catch the oil from the filter.
Sometimes manufacturers have patents or rights to certain filters so the aftermarket cannot make them. Also with engine oil filters, for example, the cartridge types can have slight dimensional differences in aftermarket versus factory so they are not infringing on the rights, and thus allowing the bypass of non filtered oil back into the crankcase.
Have the same issue trying to get my case tr270 fuel filter off. Stupid design. Bracket bends before it comes off
next time you change your hydraulic filter make a troft out of cardboard and stick that under the filter and put a bucket under the other end that way the oil goes in the cardboard troft and into the bucket instead of all over the inside of your machine
Thanks
In the future, get the CNH hydraulic filter. It has a square on the end to put a ratchet on to get the old one off. I really do not understand the issues you had, I just changed all the filters on an L228 with 600 hours, which was never touched before, except the air cleaner element knocked out a few times, and it went smoothly.
My old NH LX485's filters are all easy to get to except they make up for it with the engine oil filter, like the worst place ever lol
Pre filling your fuel filter is a bad idea. Your machine has an electric fuel pump that, if you power on your machine without cranking the engine, will fill the filter and purge the air from the system. Filling the filter just introduces contamination to the clean side of the filter.
sorry, but you are wrong. Pre-filling your fuel filter is vital, however you need to only fill using the outside holes, and get fuel from the petcock on the fuel filter housing. This will supply clean and fresh filtered fuel to use. The reason you have to do it on a diesel, is because the fuel injectors on a diesel use the fuel as a lubricating agent. introducing air to a diesel injector immediately damages it. Not to mention the damage that can be dealt to the transfer pump by running air through it. Diesel engines are NOT like gas engines, there is no tolerance for air.
@@makerstories4008 All of the air in the filter gets purged when you run the electric fuel pump (which runs whenever the ignition is on) before cranking the engine. The air would flow out of the filter and into the injection pump then out the injection pump fuel return port and back to tank.
What makes you think air would get to the injectors anyway? If any air makes it past the injection pump it will air lock in the injection lines and the engine would stop running.
@@KALI1080 you appear to be confused. Diesel engines use whats called a transfer pump (or HPFP) this pump is almost always mechanically driven by the engine, and not electronically actuated (like a modern gas engine typically would be). as a result, fuel is only moving while the engine is turning. Air wont just magically exit the system when you turn the key to the run position. this is generally the case on engines like the DD13, C15-18, and most heavy equipment such as the DW SK, Yanmar Industrial engines and many other more vague applications (only specified some engines so you can google these part-outs). These types on engines specifically RELY on having solid fuel in the rail to properly lubricate. The only exception to this would be an engine with Oil pressure regulated injectors which will use HPO and IPR to regulate the injector pressure, and supply lubricant to the specialized injectors; this kind of system is usually referred to as a "HEUI". Smaller injectors, such as the ones in this skid, are especially important to fill as the ports and channels in the injector are much smaller. Smaller air pockets can end up doing just as much damage as larger ones.
And yes, these engines are entirely fuel regulated and yes, they WILL run away. Its part of the nature of any diesel engine. and its why you never damage the fuel system on a diesel, it could lead to catastrophic damage, injury, and in many documented instances; death.
@@makerstories4008 I have four years in the trade. While I am still an apprentice, I know about many different diesel fuel systems and how they work. HEUI, Mechanical, Unit injection, common rail, indirect injection or power cell, ETC. I've had the opportunity to work on many different diesel engines from brands including IHI shibaura, John Deere, International, Cat, Cummins, FPT, Iveco, Deutz, Perkins, Mitsubishi, Yanmar, LS Mtron, Kubota, Lombardini, ETC.
I am not claiming that I am a master mechanic. However, I am no clueless yahoo from teh interwebs.
I have done overhauls on these engines (FPT F5C, AKA: FPT F32) and have tested the injectors and timed the injection pump. During my first overhaul of an engine in school, the instructor wanted to make a point to all of the class. He took apart an injector from this engine and lightly, as delicately as he could, marked the needle of the injector with a sharpie marker. Think about how small that mark is. He let me try to put the needle back into the injector nozzle. The needle did not fit with the mark on it.
I know how critical the clearances are on diesel fuel systems are in part because of that demonstration. The whole point of my instructors demonstration was to show us how little contamination can cause premature wear. He told us that filling the fuel filters is a bad practice due to the contamination it causes.
This engine's fuel system is a fully mechanical Bosch VE distributor pump. Fuel flow from the tank through the injector is as follows:
Fuel is sucked from the tank into the lift pump. From the lift pump is flows through the fuel filters and into the inlet of the injection pump. Inside the injection pump is a vane pump (which can be used as a transfer/lift pump) which increases the fuel pressure inside the case of the injection pump. The fuel branches off two ways here. It goes to the fill port on the plunger metering sleeve and reaches a relief valve that bleeds excess fuel off to tank (this is where the air gets out of the system with the electric lift pump running because no fuel will flow through the metering sleeve without the engine running). Once the fuel gets to the plunger, the ports line up and the plunger pumps the fuel to the injector that is lined up.
@@KALI1080 to be honest I don't really give a shit about your experience. Because simply put there is a lot of value placed on figuring shit out for yourself. Especially in this industry. Also you talk about engine precision like it's difficult to pull off. Diesel engines aren't very complicated. If you have been in the industry 4 years you should really know this by now. I'm just telling you what new Holland, John Deere, ditch witch, Toro, yanmar, and Kubota all tell techs to do this. For that reason. Only exception to this is caterpillar, who tells people not to prefill, however even their dealer techs pre-fill because it's stupid not to. Because of this I have a hard time believing that you have 4 years in the trade.
Thanks for posting the video.
Thank you for watching!
Probably has something to do with that yellow tab, my L228s tab doesn’t come out like that....
i knew a guy had a newholland ls230 skid steer trying get parts but he couldnt get the same parts because the newholland doesnt sell after market parts wich it was kinda rediculas john deeres are like that too and its good thing my kubota dealer sells kubota after market parts because there still avilable wich it was kinda good and parts wernt to much money wich the parts on kubotas are pretty desent price at my kubota dealer
The filters for the machine have to be purchased from New Holland. I cannot find them aftermarket. And they are expensive!
thats not too good the newhollands dont keep after market parts its like deeres they stoped making after market parts wich the kubotas are keeping there aftermarket parts avaliable with the newer parts wich i find kubota are smart not stop making after market parts wich kubota filters are priced at my dealer at $30.00 to $40.00 wich isnt bad for filters and $25.00 for 10w30 1 gallon jug kubota oil
HAVE OWNED 2 NH SKID STEERS. 90s & 2000 VINTAGES. ALL HORIBLE TO WORK ON. WON'T BE A 3rd ONE...EVER. BOBCAT AND KUBOTA EXCELLENT ACCESS TO EVERYTHING. JUST SAYIN'
Your shop needs better lighting.
I agree! This is an older video. We have upgraded to LED fixtures.