Proving once again why this is my favorite modeling channel. People - you don’t have to drive yourself crazy to produce a beautiful model - and better yet actually enjoy the process. Great video, Chris!
EXCELLENT! This is right on point, my son and I were just today dicussing our recent use of these paints. I have been building model cars since 1961, and never concitered heating the subject before applying the gloss paint! Never to old to learn, the modeling community is so cool!
I've Always had tried to make certain my model body's n paint were at Least 75 Degrees Feirenheight but 85-95 is better w Paint at ,85-90 too. The paint is thinner Sprays better hot. Propellant lasts longer n small special model paint cans go fully empty.. I'm using Krylons Various a Flat Black paint/Primer combo, Short Cuts Flat White (,as light color primer) short cuts Gloss as Base under the Krylon Glitter Blasts for Brilliant stunning Low Rider type flashy Metallics n Krylon Glitter Shimmer paints It goes on super nice n thin with pretty fast dry times too ! Lots cheaper than special model car spray cans $5-6. ,,? You get 4-6X as much paint w Krylong bigger cans n the minis are ,$3.29 vs $5-6 same amount of paint
@@hpiguy Great video/tutorial, thank you! I'm about to receive a vintage rocket model, which is missing white color on a few smaller sports. Should I use the white primer and the white coat?
I discovered your channel a month or two ago. The heat gun idea is brilliant! I have to paint in my unheated garage. I painted a 65 Plymouth today in chilly northern Indiana and the paint came out beautifully! Thanks for the the tips and tricks. I love modeling again!
Thanks for the great tips and for informing me that I can paint it any old way I want to because it's mine and there is no wrong way. Much appreciated.
I'm 69 yo and retired haven't built a model in decades but have been collecting some I've liked over the years. Now is my time to get back to the hobby and this is a great finish for what I have in mind. I will be converting many of my cars for road racing and they will not require a show finish.
Some modelers say "rattle cans" are crap, well guess who's wrong. The results speak for themselves. I really enjoyed this behind the scenes video. Yes I also use cans, and i do warm them up in water too. The hard thing for mr is walking away! I always want to look at my work, but your right just walk away on leave it alone. Great video and great tips, thanks again Chris!
That's how I painted my models in the early '70's. Still use it sometimes when the color is right. Never used primer. These models' paint jobs still look fine like they did when I first painted them. I still wear old t-shirts from back then too. Holes and all. My heat gun is a $2 model from Goodwill.
I want to be on your level.i don't know you but I really look up to your work,I watch you station EVERYDAY Please keep them coming,if you can give me all the advice you can..I'm a HUGE FAN and will keep watching your channel to I'mprove myself..so please,help me so I can help myself. Thank you ,Jackson
Good video! I use the same exact paint you use, however I learned the hard way that when you get a primer+paint mix, you REALLY have to shake the can good, and test it on something first, or it might come out bubbly, too thick, and rigid. Make sure, (at least I learned) to make sure the paint comes out of the can nice and smooth before painting the car, or what ever your painting. Again, great simple steps you showed!
Great tutorial. The only thing I would add is when mixing brands of primer, paint, and clear, it's a good idea to test for reactivity to make sure that they all get along with each other and don't wrinkle or craze. I use white styrene plastic spoons, available at any grocery store for next to nothing, AKA the famous-in-the-modeling-world "spoon test".
Most of the Rustoleum stuff is plastic safe and if you stick brand to brand there is rarely a problem. Issues come up when you apply a reactive layer above a more neutral layer, you are correct. If you try to apply a hot lacquer over an enamel you're going to have a bad day.
Anything that has a strong lacquer base will react poorly with plastic and anything under it. Automotive paints can work great but they must be checked on scrap plastics first and a great primer coat is a must. Cheap paints, as shown in this video, have low volatility and rarely react poorly since they are not strong.
Thanks for the video Chris, I started using an airbrush a few years back, through trial and error I finally got it down to where it don't turn out to be a car wreck, lol. But, in the summer months, I go back to my rattle cans! Your demo was spot on!!…..Bill
I'm totally new to this art... I just bought my very first model Honda Civic SI 1:25 from Revell. I bought my very first Testors Spray Enamel 1246, my very first Testors plastic cement and my very first modeling knife. I loved every single second of your video. I just applied the cement to the white outer parts and I'll be washing it as you advised because it makes a lot of sense. I'll watch all your videos, thanks a thousand!
Awesome! A great "regular guy" post by a model builder! Thank you so much! I am just getting back into building model cars after 40+ years. I rattle canned my cars back then and they looked great! I used to sand the primer though.
Now I see what I'm doing WRONG! I need to heat the body first. I have a dehydrator that I modified for drying. Now I will Preheat the bodies. Thanks Chris!!!
Just use a cheap hair dryer. Not only can it heat your model but as a dryer so speed up the drying of acrylic paint and much cheaper than a dehydrator.
I just started watching your channel and recently got back into the hobby. I love how simple and great your techniques are!!. I am also subscribed to all the quote show end builders. But I find there techniques are complicated and expensive!! I love that you all ways say build the model for you not other people!! Keep up the great work!!
I learned a lot from this short video. Thanks. I'm into model railways and i always need a shiny coat onto which i apply transfers; after that i apply a matt or satin coat . Thanks again
I like your techniques because that’s how I roll . I like when the model doesn’t exceed the price of the products you apply on it . Time and patience will allow you near perfection over taking more steps . Great video never decided to degrease before but I’ll try it. Thanks very much keep up the hobby
wow Chirs u r the man!! i never use gloss or primer, now i know the trick to a nice paint job!!! thanks u so much bro.im starting my Mack c. liner tommrow and I'm going to knock it out of the park with u tips. THANKS and have a bless day.👍👍
Love this video! I've always wondered how you got nice finishes on your models without using an airbrush. Also thanks for the tips about warming the paint and bodies in the winter. I live in a colder area as well and kind of kept my model building to the warmer months because I couldn't get as nice of a finish in the cold.
Building my first model in 40 years, the AMT International 4070A. May have gotten in over my head. However, I followed your instructions here, same brand of paint, but I used gray primer so it would show up better on white plastic. Waiting for the color to dry now, I may have a bit of orange peel. Thank you for the very informative videos.
Just watched this for the second time. For the past 18 months I've been using this technique and these paints and the regular non-2X colors over 2X primer. I only use the expensive small cans if there is a color issue. And it works well on sailing ships. I heartily recommend it.
Been watching your videos for quite a while and Thanks for another superb Video!! And Thanks for helping and sharing your knowledge with the Novice model builders. Rich
Thank you for another model tips. I will try your method. Keep building them an I will keep watching them.👍. I don't have a booth so I use a cardboard box that I spray with water to keep any dust down and a garbage bag for the entrance, spray the bag down on side that faces into box also. It might be crewed but it works for me. Dust is a model KILLER as we all know. Happy painting.😎.
Great tutorial Chris, i can't use spray cans indoors so I use the garage in the warmer weather. I plan to do one build using Model Master lacquer spray some day, but using the rattle cans you don't have to worry about mixing the paint and thinner and setting the air pressure for an airbrush, it is a much faster system.
That car's paint is gorgeous! I did a Nissan 300zx with Rust-Oleum 2x and it came out kinda gritty and I always wondered why. After your text in screen suggested that the problem was the body was too cold, I thought about it and sure enough I painted it in February or March plus I didn't warm the paint, just straight up shook it and shot it. On the flip side of things, I did a '72 Nova with R2x during the summer (no prep) and it came out alot better than the Nissan. Your video told me what I did wrong with the nissan and how to prevent doing it again in the future. Thanks sooo much for this valuable information!
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. My friend got me a model kit and it's my first one so I didn't want to spend a fortune on painting it as I will probably not be doing more kits (it will be a prop for a diorama), 🤗
I like this video a lot. I do the same as you when it comes to spray painting. I’ve never had to sand or even primer my car if I didn’t want to. They Come out super perfect every time.
Been building a long time. Gave airbrush to my son. I prefer spray can. You have a great system. Btw that paint booth is awesome. I've been using it for awhile.
The Rustoleum 2X paint is excellent for helping make more realistic models. Different shades and textures add depth and interest. When I checked last R 2X has 6 different types of black and many other "dark" colors that are near-black. Using combinations of gloss, semi-gloss, flat, satin, etc on chassis parts yields amazing results!
I love using Tamiya spray lacquers. They are bit pricey, but the spraying process is forgiving straight from the rattle can. They come in awesome color and cover well. I sometimes don't even use a primer and paint over bare plastic to be daring. I've had exceptional results from not using primer on white molded kits. Another brand I love using is Dupli-Color Perfect Match spray paints. They thinned their line up of colors over the years to make way for more modern colors. I've seen a few custom style colors like Bahama Blue, a GM color, Intense Blue Pearl, a few bright reds, yellows, Orange Mist from Nissan, and a few pearl white. They are around $10 a can, but can be used to paint at least 2 or 3 model car bodies and parts. My technique for a glossier shine is to color sand and clear coat sand the bodies after the paint has cured and "gassed out". Using a polishing kit from Micro-Mesh, start off using 3200 or 4000 grit depending on how much orange peel the finish has and work your way up to 12000 grit for final polishing. Come back with some car polish and wax and you're all set. Of course you have to be careful as to not burn through the paint and clear coat. It's always upsetting ruining a perfect paint job when you polish too hard!
excellent video and tips on how you paint, I stopped doing airbrushing 15 years ago and just use cans....never thought about heating the bodies, I also put the cans in warm water before using and the cleaning of the parts is a must
Hi Chris times have really changed , you refer to cheap paint cans. today in 2023 in my area the paint cans you refer to are $10 - 12. Depending where you buy. And in Canada where I live a model will cost $40 - $60. A heavy hauler will cost $80 +. Times have changed but still a great hobby. In the 60s I used to buy Airfix aircraft models for .049 CENTS. My allowance was 50 cents a week. Great channel you have!
I personally prefer Krylon's spray paint over Rustoleum's. Rustoleum's paint is a bit too thick and tends to shoot out too much which covers up small details. You can still get a super glossy and sweet paint job but it's a bit hard for beginners to get it right. Krylon on the other hand is more forgiving, finer and also dries faster. The best spraypaint I've tried by far is Duplicolor's automotive touch up cans, it's very fine lacquer paint and dries to a nice and hard glossy finish. Plus it's relatively cheap and you can find them in very much every automotive supply stores.
Nice suggestion on the rust-oleum or whatever. Since I do not have the benefit of a basement let alone heated, I paint in the garage and it gets cold... down to 40 degrees or so. To heat for painting, I use either a 500-watt or 250-watt quartz work light (depends on the ambient). It heats up the general area to 70-80 degrees in 15-20 minutes. Also, booth temperature control by moving the light near or farther away is really nice (warms me too).
Thank you for saving me a fortune. I am in the process of building Revell's 1/72 scale Gato class submarine. It is almost 5 feet long. If I had to use those thimble sized bottles of model paint I would go broke. The hull is almost entirely semi-gloss black, I scored a can of Rustoleum 2X satin black at my local Walmart. Did a test shot on some sheet styrene and it's going to be prefect. Thanks again.
Very cool James! It's an enamel so be careful with the materials you use to weather it. Once dry you can weather it with acrylics and should not have an issue.
@@hpiguy No problem model is not meant to be weathered. My intent is to build it as a pristine display model in a glass case, something like what an Admiral would have on display in his office.
I made another visit to this. I have used the Rustoleum paints - the 2X and twice I covered the primer with the regular Rustoleum. The plastic did not craze and although it took days to dry the result is fine - the Hunter Green for the Raider ship hull. I rarely use the other model paints except for colors I cannot find in Rustoleum. I have also used the cheap acrylics thoroughly thinned with considerable success. Great ideas!~
Great, same way that I have been doing them. One thing I found out the hard way is never use clear on a model painted white, eventually. The white will turn a yellowish color.
Thank you for this fantastic video, I’m a first time model maker of this kind , I usually do die cast snap togethers but I wanted something more challenging but was unsure of the painting method because I thought to have a good paint job you had to use a paint brush
This is an awesome video! And let me say I'm glad I found your channel. I have read so many posts in forums warning against using spray cans on plastic models because they dispense a heavy load of paint and obscure fine detail. I would assume you have proved them wrong.
Awesome video! I have not built a car model in years, I like using the Rattle-Can factory touch up paints from the local auto part store. I’ve painted everything from bikes to models with it!
Thank you so much for this video I just got a battleship and i always dread the painting of models im just not that good at it yet. I can't afford an airbrush at the moment. I don't really see the need for one after watching this. And that paint is cheaper than the Model spray paints that are 3oz! Those paint techniques are awesome and I'm feeling more confident now after watching this. I hit the subscribe!
I like how you have the 'nod' to the Earl Schieb ad. I had my first car painted there. Decent job. I'm the same way on my paint jobs, it doesn't need to be showroom perfect, if it's decent then I'm happy with it. I do like how yours turned out, nice job.
Excellent " How 2 Video " I'm going to invest in a paint booth like the one shown here !! Lots of great ideas you're showing here,..going to apply these ideas to what I have been doing ..prep is key !! Thanks for you're great how to videos !! From Michigan / Tom ( great humour too )
What I do after the paint is warmed up, wrap it in a heating pad to keep it warm. That's if you are going to use it again or keep other cans warm. This helps atomize the paint better. Also use a tack rag, found at automotive paint stores. These tack tags help pick up any dust that may get on the body before spraying.The tack rag can be used over and over, store it in a Ziploc Hope this helps too! Nice builds!!
Very nice! And factory paint jobs back in the day were painted on the line by hand, no robots and may have had a few imperfections as they rolled off the assembly line...gave them a bit of individual character.
THAT'S AWESOME Chris, I'll Have to Give it a Go and I Have That Kit Staring at Me From My Stash AND The Beautiful Seaside Blue + The Clear Coat 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗. Thanks For Sharing n Have a Blessed Week Sir.
The tip about heating the paint can applies to almost anything that comes in an aerosol. I do the same with my shaving gel! Makes the contents flow more easily (basically the effect of temperature on viscosity) and activates the propellant properly so you get every ounce out of the can!
Beautiful video.Now I know where and how I messed up my truck model.I normally collect Diecast truck models,bit last year bought 2 snap tite models.One a Peterbilt and another one a Freightliner.Since I'm from India,we don't get truck models.Had got them online.And also this is my first time building a kit.I had also got the rattle cans, but my biggest mistake was of not applying primer to the body.The paint started dripping, that's when I realised how dumb I am.Wish I had seen your video and then started on my kit.In a way,I spoilt one model,now will start with my Freightliner in a month or so.Also thanks for the simple tutorial you have shown.Very interesting.have just subscribed to your channel.
I tried this on a box car model. I then spent some time Googling "How to strip spray paint from plastic model." I think I'd better practice on some plastic cups or something first :)
Rustoleum 2X! Use it on all my builds. I'm old school. Would love to have an airbrush, but at my age I can't really justify the added cost and time. If I need to do any detail painting I use a quality bottled paint and a brush. Never thought of warming the spray can. Great tip! Really enjoy your videos.
@@hpiguy hey great video, really helped me as a first time builder. I was just wondering where I could get a model like the one in the video as I've looked online and can't seem to see any kits for it. Thanks!
Thanks for this, I been thinking buyin an Airbrush... but they are a bit pricey, this DEFINITELY helps me decide to stay rattlecan, which is more cost effective.
You van get nice airbrushes for cheap and a cheap compressor from harbor freight. I use the ones I have, but for cars spray cans work pretty slick as well.
I commented on one of Don Yost's videos about Rust-Oleum paint and he said it was no good and I commented saying that you seem to have no problem and he said that you pretty much just hope and pray when you use rattle cans. Your paint jobs seem pretty good to me.
Everyone should model the way they prefer. I want everyone to have fun with whatever methods they like to use. I will never say someone else is 'wrong' when they enjoy their hobby their way. I'm not here to tell anyone what to use, or that they have to do it my way. I simply show what I do when I make MY models. That's it.
Wow! Thank you so much for your very informative spray can for models, video. I've been trying to get away with this method of painting models for years, but your great work, results in fantastic looking models!!! I learned a lot from you. Thanks for sharing.
I am seeing more and more comments on a Facebook modeling page asking what is the best compressor, airbrush by those new to the hobby. I’ve been making models for close to fifty years and like you, I use rattle cans all the time to paint the body. I do have an airbrush but only use it for window trims and it’s not all the time.
Many people get convinced that they 'need' an airbrush and all that stuff to build models and enjoy themselves. It's simply not true. A person can enjoy the hobby and create nice models without ever owning one (I own three BTW so I am not against them at all) I'm not here to convince anyone that they do or do not need anything, or that one way is better than the others. I never say "Do it this way, do not do it that way" or "That way is bad, only do things my way". As I always say, I build for me my way and show others how I get it done. It's up to each person to decide how they like to make their models. Thanks!
I will use this technique with the AMT FORD LNT-9000 snow-plow truck I got for my birthday. All those spray cans (primer, paint and clear-coat) I can find them at the hardware store with ease and not worry about finding top-brand quality products since it is my first model kit build.
I to use spray can paint more often than my airbrush I have been going a one step further by doing a one step wet sand and come out of the paint both with a show car finesh it's a little more work but worth it sometime love all your videos hope to see a lot more in the upcoming year thank you
The heat made all the difference, and the floor wax finish knocked it out of the ballpark! I did the Revell Isetta bubble car. Krylon Sweet cream roof and Krylon Ivy Green sides and front door.
Geday Chris, thank you for your demo on "How To Paint Scale With Cheap Spray Can Paint" I found it most informative.I found Rustoleum in Australia at a hard ware store called Bunnings warehouse @ $12.55. A AMT Model Car costs about $55.95, this makes this rather expensive, but worth it for the finish you get.
Proving once again why this is my favorite modeling channel. People - you don’t have to drive yourself crazy to produce a beautiful model - and better yet actually enjoy the process. Great video, Chris!
Thanks Jim! It's all about fun and showing newcomers and seasoned vets that models do not have to be expensive or stressful to get good results!
I know this is an older video but I really like the paint tips. I am just getting ready to retire and get back into the hobby.
You can do it!
Me too. Loved building when I was a kid. Hopefully, I can once again get that great feeling that I used to get.
You definitely will if you haven't already...lol
I always use Primer aswell. But some Rust-Oleum paint,s have the primer in it! But I use the same method as you and they come out great.
EXCELLENT! This is right on point, my son and I were just today dicussing our recent use of these paints. I have been building model cars since 1961, and never concitered heating the subject before applying the gloss paint! Never to old to learn, the modeling community is so cool!
Thanks Ron, we all pick up stuff no matter how long we've been doing it.
I've Always had tried to make certain my model body's n paint were at Least 75 Degrees Feirenheight but 85-95 is better w Paint at ,85-90 too. The paint is thinner Sprays better hot. Propellant lasts longer n small special model paint cans go fully empty.. I'm using Krylons Various a Flat Black paint/Primer combo, Short Cuts Flat White (,as light color primer) short cuts Gloss as Base under the Krylon Glitter Blasts for Brilliant stunning Low Rider type flashy Metallics n Krylon Glitter Shimmer paints
It goes on super nice n thin with pretty fast dry times too ! Lots cheaper than special model car spray cans $5-6. ,,? You get 4-6X as much paint w Krylong bigger cans n the minis are ,$3.29 vs $5-6 same amount of paint
@@hpiguy Great video/tutorial, thank you! I'm about to receive a vintage rocket model, which is missing white color on a few smaller sports. Should I use the white primer and the white coat?
U sound down to earth. Love all your videos. You make the painting process easy without boring us with all the other tips. Thank you sir.
I discovered your channel a month or two ago. The heat gun idea is brilliant! I have to paint in my unheated garage. I painted a 65 Plymouth today in chilly northern Indiana and the paint came out beautifully! Thanks for the the tips and tricks. I love modeling again!
Much appreciated!
facebook.com/hpiguysworkshop
Thanks for the great tips and for informing me that I can paint it any old way I want to because it's mine and there is no wrong way. Much appreciated.
That's right, if you like it, that is all that matters. Build for you, not the snobs on the internet.
Excellent. I'm just now starting model kit building. Thanks to videos like this and others on RUclips I feel confident.
Glad I could help!
I'm 69 yo and retired haven't built a model in decades but have been collecting some I've liked over the years. Now is my time to get back to the hobby and this is a great finish for what I have in mind. I will be converting many of my cars for road racing and they will not require a show finish.
Go for it!
Chris, as I've mentioned several times, you are the king of the rattle can. 😎
Some modelers say "rattle cans" are crap, well guess who's wrong. The results speak for themselves. I really enjoyed this behind the scenes video. Yes I also use cans, and i do warm them up in water too. The hard thing for mr is walking away! I always want to look at my work, but your right just walk away on leave it alone. Great video and great tips, thanks again Chris!
I don't have too many issues, but folks like what they like. Thanks Chris!
That's how I painted my models in the early '70's. Still use it sometimes when the color is right. Never used primer. These models' paint jobs still look fine like they did when I first painted them. I still wear old t-shirts from back then too. Holes and all. My heat gun is a $2 model from Goodwill.
I like this dude. His energy just makes watching these videos entertaining and they are very informative! Thanks for this!
I appreciate that!
It is critical that you choose a Plastic Compatble primer and paint!! Great tips and love your videos!
I want to be on your level.i don't know you but I really look up to your work,I watch you station EVERYDAY Please keep them coming,if you can give me all the advice you can..I'm a HUGE FAN and will keep watching your channel to I'mprove myself..so please,help me so I can help myself. Thank you ,Jackson
Good video! I use the same exact paint you use, however I learned the hard way that when you get a primer+paint mix, you REALLY have to shake the can good, and test it on something first, or it might come out bubbly, too thick, and rigid. Make sure, (at least I learned) to make sure the paint comes out of the can nice and smooth before painting the car, or what ever your painting. Again, great simple steps you showed!
Good to know!
This was very informative, thank you for making this video. Your models always turn out with a beautiful shine.
Thanks man!
Great tutorial. The only thing I would add is when mixing brands of primer, paint, and clear, it's a good idea to test for reactivity to make sure that they all get along with each other and don't wrinkle or craze. I use white styrene plastic spoons, available at any grocery store for next to nothing, AKA the famous-in-the-modeling-world "spoon test".
Most of the Rustoleum stuff is plastic safe and if you stick brand to brand there is rarely a problem.
Issues come up when you apply a reactive layer above a more neutral layer, you are correct. If you try to apply a hot lacquer over an enamel you're going to have a bad day.
Anything that has a strong lacquer base will react poorly with plastic and anything under it. Automotive paints can work great but they must be checked on scrap plastics first and a great primer coat is a must.
Cheap paints, as shown in this video, have low volatility and rarely react poorly since they are not strong.
Love this channel! Probably my favorite for model cars.
Glad you enjoy it!
I'm a spray can modeller also, can't beat it. Well done. 1 thing I notice is white Blooming using the clear lacquer
Thank you for always keeping it simple and fun!
Thanks for watching John!
Thanks for the video Chris, I started using an airbrush a few years back, through trial and error I finally got it down to where it don't turn out to be a car wreck, lol. But, in the summer months, I go back to my rattle cans! Your demo was spot on!!…..Bill
Yeah I like the cans year round, but as I've shown in other builds I'll also sling an airbrush for details and custom colors.
I'm totally new to this art... I just bought my very first model Honda Civic SI 1:25 from Revell. I bought my very first Testors Spray Enamel 1246, my very first Testors plastic cement and my very first modeling knife. I loved every single second of your video. I just applied the cement to the white outer parts and I'll be washing it as you advised because it makes a lot of sense. I'll watch all your videos, thanks a thousand!
Thanks for the nice words and for watching!
Awesome! A great "regular guy" post by a model builder! Thank you so much! I am just getting back into building model cars after 40+ years. I rattle canned my cars back then and they looked great! I used to sand the primer though.
Glad to help!
Fleet Farm, now that’s a real mans store! Go Pack Go!
Now I see what I'm doing WRONG! I need to heat the body first. I have a dehydrator that I modified for drying. Now I will Preheat the bodies. Thanks Chris!!!
Thanks Clay! The heat helps the paint flow and even out before it dries.
Just use a cheap hair dryer. Not only can it heat your model but as a dryer so speed up the drying of acrylic paint and much cheaper than a dehydrator.
@@BennyCFD I have one of those too. The dehydrator was $5 at Goodwill.
I just started watching your channel and recently got back into the hobby. I love how simple and great your techniques are!!. I am also subscribed to all the quote show end builders. But I find there techniques are complicated and expensive!! I love that you all ways say build the model for you not other people!! Keep up the great work!!
I learned a lot from this short video. Thanks. I'm into model railways and i always need a shiny coat onto which i apply transfers; after that i apply a matt or satin coat . Thanks again
I like your techniques because that’s how I roll . I like when the model doesn’t exceed the price of the products you apply on it . Time and patience will allow you near perfection over taking more steps . Great video never decided to degrease before but I’ll try it. Thanks very much keep up the hobby
Thank you for spending some of your day on my channel!
wow Chirs u r the man!! i never use gloss or primer, now i know the trick to a nice paint job!!! thanks u so much bro.im starting my Mack c. liner tommrow and I'm going to knock it out of the park with u tips. THANKS and have a bless day.👍👍
Thank you John, I'm sure it will turn out well.
Love this video! I've always wondered how you got nice finishes on your models without using an airbrush. Also thanks for the tips about warming the paint and bodies in the winter. I live in a colder area as well and kind of kept my model building to the warmer months because I couldn't get as nice of a finish in the cold.
Thanks!
Building my first model in 40 years, the AMT International 4070A. May have gotten in over my head. However, I followed your instructions here, same brand of paint, but I used gray primer so it would show up better on white plastic. Waiting for the color to dry now, I may have a bit of orange peel. Thank you for the very informative videos.
I love cheap paints and hate airbrushing, so this is right up my alley. Nice tutorial!
Thanks!
Just watched this for the second time. For the past 18 months I've been using this technique and these paints and the regular non-2X colors over 2X primer. I only use the expensive small cans if there is a color issue. And it works well on sailing ships. I heartily recommend it.
Thanks James!
Been watching your videos for quite a while and Thanks for another superb Video!! And Thanks for helping and sharing your knowledge with the Novice model builders.
Rich
My pleasure!
Thank you for another model tips. I will try your method. Keep building them an I will keep watching them.👍. I don't have a booth so I use a cardboard box that I spray with water to keep any dust down and a garbage bag for the entrance, spray the bag down on side that faces into box also. It might be crewed but it works for me. Dust is a model KILLER as we all know. Happy painting.😎.
Whatever works for you is great!
Fascinating. I cannot even get model paint to work and here you are with Rustoleum! I will try this for sure! Thanks!
Thanks for watching!
Good, common sense approach. Very modest and approachable. All-around good advice.
Glad you think so!
Great tutorial Chris, i can't use spray cans indoors so I use the garage in the warmer weather. I plan to do one build using Model Master lacquer spray some day, but using the rattle cans you don't have to worry about mixing the paint and thinner and setting the air pressure for an airbrush, it is a much faster system.
Thanks for watching!
Awesome tutorial. Getting a good paint job has been my biggest headache. I'll give this stuff a try on my next project.
Thanks Robert!
Yes, it is easy - I'm a can-guy since i'm builing models. Keep the can warm and it works. Agreed all you said - thanks for this tutorial!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks. Appreciate your knowledge and enthusiasm . I am a 54 year old beginner .
Rock on!
That car's paint is gorgeous!
I did a Nissan 300zx with Rust-Oleum 2x and it came out kinda gritty and I always wondered why. After your text in screen suggested that the problem was the body was too cold, I thought about it and sure enough I painted it in February or March plus I didn't warm the paint, just straight up shook it and shot it. On the flip side of things, I did a '72 Nova with R2x during the summer (no prep) and it came out alot better than the Nissan. Your video told me what I did wrong with the nissan and how to prevent doing it again in the future.
Thanks sooo much for this valuable information!
Thanks man, glad it helped!
Thank you! This is exactly what I was looking for. My friend got me a model kit and it's my first one so I didn't want to spend a fortune on painting it as I will probably not be doing more kits (it will be a prop for a diorama), 🤗
Enjoy!
I like this video a lot. I do the same as you when it comes to spray painting. I’ve never had to sand or even primer my car if I didn’t want to. They Come out super perfect every time.
Thanks for sharing!
Been building a long time. Gave airbrush to my son. I prefer spray can. You have a great system. Btw that paint booth is awesome. I've been using it for awhile.
Thanks 👍
The Rustoleum 2X paint is excellent for helping make more realistic models. Different shades and textures add depth and interest. When I checked last R 2X has 6 different types of black and many other "dark" colors that are near-black. Using combinations of gloss, semi-gloss, flat, satin, etc on chassis parts yields amazing results!
Works well for me!
Thanks for the video- this shows that you don't need expensive stuff to get the job done
Thanks!
I love using Tamiya spray lacquers. They are bit pricey, but the spraying process is forgiving straight from the rattle can. They come in awesome color and cover well. I sometimes don't even use a primer and paint over bare plastic to be daring. I've had exceptional results from not using primer on white molded kits.
Another brand I love using is Dupli-Color Perfect Match spray paints. They thinned their line up of colors over the years to make way for more modern colors. I've seen a few custom style colors like Bahama Blue, a GM color, Intense Blue Pearl, a few bright reds, yellows, Orange Mist from Nissan, and a few pearl white. They are around $10 a can, but can be used to paint at least 2 or 3 model car bodies and parts.
My technique for a glossier shine is to color sand and clear coat sand the bodies after the paint has cured and "gassed out". Using a polishing kit from Micro-Mesh, start off using 3200 or 4000 grit depending on how much orange peel the finish has and work your way up to 12000 grit for final polishing. Come back with some car polish and wax and you're all set. Of course you have to be careful as to not burn through the paint and clear coat. It's always upsetting ruining a perfect paint job when you polish too hard!
I'm so glad I found your channel. I've learned a lot from this video and your build videos.
Welcome aboard!
Great video! Been thinking about buying an air brush set up but will hold off and givethe rattle cans a try.
excellent video and tips on how you paint, I stopped doing airbrushing 15 years ago and just use cans....never thought about heating the bodies, I also put the cans in warm water before using and the cleaning of the parts is a must
Thanks Craig!
Hi Chris times have really changed , you refer to cheap paint cans. today in 2023 in my area the paint cans you refer to are
$10 - 12. Depending where you buy. And in Canada where I live a model will cost $40 - $60. A heavy hauler will cost $80 +.
Times have changed but still a great hobby.
In the 60s I used to buy Airfix aircraft models for .049 CENTS. My allowance was 50 cents a week.
Great channel you have!
I personally prefer Krylon's spray paint over Rustoleum's. Rustoleum's paint is a bit too thick and tends to shoot out too much which covers up small details. You can still get a super glossy and sweet paint job but it's a bit hard for beginners to get it right. Krylon on the other hand is more forgiving, finer and also dries faster. The best spraypaint I've tried by far is Duplicolor's automotive touch up cans, it's very fine lacquer paint and dries to a nice and hard glossy finish. Plus it's relatively cheap and you can find them in very much every automotive supply stores.
Meisen, are you using Krylon Fusion or Krylon Colormaxx, and are you using Krylon Colormaxx primer beforehand?
Have you tried duplicolor's metalcast before? Thinking about trying that out on a kit.
@@gtyellojacket colormaxx , fusion is more like Rustoleum
Duplicolour is 50$ in India 💀 that's expensive
And you can also find manufacture specific colors with duplicolor as well
Love the intro sign…. I made it.
That looks pretty darn good thanks for putting that out there and from Once Consin guy to another I hope you had a good fourth
Helped me out a lot. Thanks! I've learned a lot by watching your videos! Keep up the work! The model also looks great.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and tips... it's so appreciated.. kind regards Dave 😁👍👍👍
Nice suggestion on the rust-oleum or whatever. Since I do not have the benefit of a basement let alone heated, I paint in the garage and it gets cold... down to 40 degrees or so. To heat for painting, I use either a 500-watt or 250-watt quartz work light (depends on the ambient). It heats up the general area to 70-80 degrees in 15-20 minutes. Also, booth temperature control by moving the light near or farther away is really nice (warms me too).
Thank you for saving me a fortune. I am in the process of building Revell's 1/72 scale Gato class submarine. It is almost 5 feet long. If I had to use those thimble sized bottles of model paint I would go broke. The hull is almost entirely semi-gloss black, I scored a can of Rustoleum 2X satin black at my local Walmart. Did a test shot on some sheet styrene and it's going to be prefect. Thanks again.
Very cool James!
It's an enamel so be careful with the materials you use to weather it. Once dry you can weather it with acrylics and should not have an issue.
@@hpiguy No problem model is not meant to be weathered. My intent is to build it as a pristine display model in a glass case, something like what an Admiral would have on display in his office.
Very cool, enjoy!
I made another visit to this. I have used the Rustoleum paints - the 2X and twice I covered the primer with the regular Rustoleum. The plastic did not craze and although it took days to dry the result is fine - the Hunter Green for the Raider ship hull. I rarely use the other model paints except for colors I cannot find in Rustoleum. I have also used the cheap acrylics thoroughly thinned with considerable success. Great ideas!~
Glad it works for you!
Great, same way that I have been doing them. One thing I found out the hard way is never use clear on a model painted white, eventually. The white will turn a yellowish color.
Thank you for this fantastic video, I’m a first time model maker of this kind , I usually do die cast snap togethers but I wanted something more challenging but was unsure of the painting method because I thought to have a good paint job you had to use a paint brush
Glad you liked it!
This is an awesome video! And let me say I'm glad I found your channel. I have read so many posts in forums warning against using spray cans on plastic models because they dispense a heavy load of paint and obscure fine detail. I would assume you have proved them wrong.
Great video and sense of humor.
I found an paint shop here in Janesville that can make any color you want in a rattle can. Wal Mart has some interesting colors as well.
Awesome video! I have not built a car model in years, I like using the Rattle-Can factory touch up paints from the local auto part store. I’ve painted everything from bikes to models with it!
Thanks Joseph!
This is just what I want to see. Now I must find these paint cans. Enamel takes to long to dry. Thanks for the advice. 👍
Thanks!
Nice to see that the same guys are building the same cars now as in the 70s and 80s!
Thank you so much for this video I just got a battleship and i always dread the painting of models im just not that good at it yet. I can't afford an airbrush at the moment. I don't really see the need for one after watching this. And that paint is cheaper than the Model spray paints that are 3oz! Those paint techniques are awesome and I'm feeling more confident now after watching this. I hit the subscribe!
Thanks for watching!
I like how you have the 'nod' to the Earl Schieb ad. I had my first car painted there. Decent job. I'm the same way on my paint jobs, it doesn't need to be showroom perfect, if it's decent then I'm happy with it. I do like how yours turned out, nice job.
Thanks for noticing the Earl Scheib bit!
You made that look easy. I always over work it and slop it up. Thanks man
Thanks Danny! When in doubt, apply less paint. And don't hold it too close. At least a foot away.
Too little ok. Too much not ok.
Excellent " How 2 Video " I'm going to invest in a paint booth like the one shown here !! Lots of great ideas you're showing here,..going to apply these ideas to what I have been doing ..prep is key !! Thanks for you're great how to videos !! From Michigan / Tom ( great humour too )
Thanks for watching Tom!
Thanks for giving us an inexpensive way to do the paint jobs. Looks great.
Thanks!
lot of help thanks ! maybe a assembly / glue tips would be good for us guys that havent done models in 40 years !lol
Thanks for the tips. I watched this right before my last build. Heating the can made such a huge difference.
Glad it helped Chris!
What I do after the paint is warmed up, wrap it in a heating pad to keep it warm. That's if you are going to use it again or keep other cans warm. This helps atomize the paint better.
Also use a tack rag, found at automotive paint stores. These tack tags help pick up any dust that may get on the body before spraying.The tack rag can be used over and over, store it in a Ziploc
Hope this helps too!
Nice builds!!
Very nice! And factory paint jobs back in the day were painted on the line by hand, no robots and may have had a few imperfections as they rolled off the assembly line...gave them a bit of individual character.
Thanks!
THAT'S AWESOME Chris, I'll Have to Give it a Go and I Have That Kit Staring at Me From My Stash AND The Beautiful Seaside Blue + The Clear Coat 🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗🤗. Thanks For Sharing n Have a Blessed Week Sir.
Thanks Gary!
Thank you for this! I've been having some troubles with painting my models. I'm gonna invest in a hair dryer.
Thanks for watching the video, much appreciated!
Make sure to join the fun on the hpiguys Workshop Facebook page if you haven't already!
I have had Future yellow after a couple of years. Great video!!!
The tip about heating the paint can applies to almost anything that comes in an aerosol. I do the same with my shaving gel! Makes the contents flow more easily (basically the effect of temperature on viscosity) and activates the propellant properly so you get every ounce out of the can!
Wow, beautiful work my friend !
Thank you very much you help me get an AMT 1958 chevy ala impala painted in a tamiya metallic green. Much appreciated!!
Beautiful video.Now I know where and how I messed up my truck model.I normally collect Diecast truck models,bit last year bought 2 snap tite models.One a Peterbilt and another one a Freightliner.Since I'm from India,we don't get truck models.Had got them online.And also this is my first time building a kit.I had also got the rattle cans, but my biggest mistake was of not applying primer to the body.The paint started dripping, that's when I realised how dumb I am.Wish I had seen your video and then started on my kit.In a way,I spoilt one model,now will start with my Freightliner in a month or so.Also thanks for the simple tutorial you have shown.Very interesting.have just subscribed to your channel.
Thanks Amit!
If the paint is running and dripping it was applied much to thick. Light mist coats until you get the coverage you need.
Very good information , thanks . I will try this step by step on my next plastic model . Mike Espo.
Thanks for taking time out of your day to watch and comment!
Join the fun on our Facebook page if you haven't already!
Might want to clean out that washtub a bit .😄
Great tips on painting ! I like the paint booth idea .
I tried this on a box car model. I then spent some time Googling "How to strip spray paint from plastic model." I think I'd better practice on some plastic cups or something first :)
Rustoleum 2X! Use it on all my builds. I'm old school. Would love to have an airbrush, but at my age I can't really justify the added cost and time. If I need to do any detail painting I use a quality bottled paint and a brush. Never thought of warming the spray can. Great tip! Really enjoy your videos.
Thanks man, they work well for me!
facebook.com/hpiguysworkshop
Thanks for all your support. It’s just that it’s getting harder to find model paint. I’m. Gonna have to mail order and wait. Thanks again!
Thanks for sharing Chris I don’t spend a lot on paint you only have to be happy with the paint job hope your Christmas was good
Thanks Jeff!
Very nice tutorial, your builds always look good.
Thanks Jim!
Thank you for sharing your paint techniques. Great video!
Thanks Todd!
@@hpiguy hey great video, really helped me as a first time builder. I was just wondering where I could get a model like the one in the video as I've looked online and can't seem to see any kits for it. Thanks!
Thanks for some great tips 👍
Thanks for this, I been thinking buyin an Airbrush... but they are a bit pricey, this DEFINITELY helps me decide to stay rattlecan, which is more cost effective.
You van get nice airbrushes for cheap and a cheap compressor from harbor freight. I use the ones I have, but for cars spray cans work pretty slick as well.
I commented on one of Don Yost's videos about Rust-Oleum paint and he said it was no good and I commented saying that you seem to have no problem and he said that you pretty much just hope and pray when you use rattle cans. Your paint jobs seem pretty good to me.
Everyone should model the way they prefer. I want everyone to have fun with whatever methods they like to use. I will never say someone else is 'wrong' when they enjoy their hobby their way.
I'm not here to tell anyone what to use, or that they have to do it my way. I simply show what I do when I make MY models. That's it.
@@hpiguy Your completely right. There's too much bashing in the model hobby cause something not done the way they do things.
Wow!
Thank you so much for your very informative spray can for models, video.
I've been trying to get away with this method of painting models for years, but your great work, results in fantastic looking models!!!
I learned a lot from you.
Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
I am seeing more and more comments on a Facebook modeling page asking what is the best compressor, airbrush by those new to the hobby. I’ve been making models for close to fifty years and like you, I use rattle cans all the time to paint the body. I do have an airbrush but only use it for window trims and it’s not all the time.
Many people get convinced that they 'need' an airbrush and all that stuff to build models and enjoy themselves.
It's simply not true. A person can enjoy the hobby and create nice models without ever owning one (I own three BTW so I am not against them at all)
I'm not here to convince anyone that they do or do not need anything, or that one way is better than the others. I never say "Do it this way, do not do it that way" or "That way is bad, only do things my way".
As I always say, I build for me my way and show others how I get it done. It's up to each person to decide how they like to make their models.
Thanks!
I will use this technique with the AMT FORD LNT-9000 snow-plow truck I got for my birthday. All those spray cans (primer, paint and clear-coat) I can find them at the hardware store with ease and not worry about finding top-brand quality products since it is my first model kit build.
I to use spray can paint more often than my airbrush I have been going a one step further by doing a one step wet sand and come out of the paint both with a show car finesh it's a little more work but worth it sometime love all your videos hope to see a lot more in the upcoming year thank you
Thanks Troy!
The heat made all the difference, and the floor wax finish knocked it out of the ballpark! I did the Revell Isetta bubble car. Krylon Sweet cream roof and Krylon Ivy Green sides and front door.
Thanks Phil, that's a cool kit that Isetta!
Geday Chris, thank you for your demo on "How To Paint Scale With Cheap Spray Can Paint" I found it most informative.I found Rustoleum in Australia at a hard ware store called Bunnings warehouse @ $12.55. A AMT Model Car costs about $55.95, this makes this rather expensive, but worth it for the finish you get.
Holy cow, those are high prices.
Well you are bloody well right about that Mate, I think it has something to do with the U.S and Australia dollar.