I 'd like to say that as the channel gets more views that along with the increase in views is the increase in the amount of people leaving comments that are clueless about my work or my long history with manual transmissions. If you want to troll go some place else. Stupid comments about my work, or towards other people here will get you blocked. The Mopar box listed does indeed have an 18 spline input. Face plating has to do with the design of the dog style engagement tooth because its strength relies on the width of the face rather than the length. If anyone would like to share and question in an intelligent manner I'm all open.
GearBoxVideo I personally really enjoyed the video. After a lot of searching this is the only video I have seen explaining how faceplating actually works. would you be willing to do one on a dog engagement gearset if you have the opportunity?
Hey man, I just found your channel I really love it. I always appreciate when experts take the time to make, edit, and post these things for us! I actually really love this failure diagnosis style of video- I really hope you'll make another installment on this series sometime in the future!
your videos are really good and its possible to learn a lot by them. I never really tore down a manual, except in high school, transmission but I would come here to learn as much as I could.
I can attest to the fact, if your bell housing, or on my car, scatter shield isn’t aligned correctly, every bearing, bushing and gear is going to suffer, your synchros won’t work like you would like and your clutch will always seem to be dragging. The alignment process is all spelled out in the Chrysler service manuals at least as far back as 1966, and likely a lot earlier. It’s well worth the effort, especially if your using components from different cars. The stuff I’m using is all over 50 years old, and no telling how it’s been abused.
A friend of mine races Stock cars at our local oval track. He has been burning out the clutch every couple of races. His set up includes a Jerico two speed( dog gears), a 5 inch quarter master multiple disk clutch, with a hydraulic throwout bearing, and a small quarter master bellhousing. He doesn't use a motor plate between engine and bellhousing. The engine is a 604 GM crate engine. There must be an alignment problem someplace, you have any suggestions. One thing I forgot to mention is that many of the stock car guys don't use a rear mount, they use mounts at the rear of the engine that bolts to the bellhousing bolts outside.
I'm quite familiar with these setups. It depends on how the clutch is failing. If you are burning it up then it obviously can't handle the load and you may wan't to go up to a 7". If you are blowing out the hubs, probably an alignment issue. Not having a tail mount puts the tortional load 100% on the ears of the transmission.
Oh so a faceplated transmission really shouldn't be street driven? Or just don't engine break by snapping the throttle and don't on off the throttle like crazy in the city?
Jason Gordon could be a synchro ring on it's way out. Poor clutch release can also be the cause since this ring is rather small compared to the others and works harder
great video Paul! I have a face plated a833 like in the video. Whats the trick to getting the assembled mainshaft/tailshaft assembly to fully go in? I know the roller bearings are in the input shaft are correct and staying in place and have checked several times to make sure gears/sliders are assembled properly. I'm trying to put the assembly in with the input shaft already in the case as the manual says. I see where some people say to put the input on the mainshaft and then install the input bearing? Need some advice from the pro. Thanks a lot. Casey
so I need to get the main shaft assembly into the input and seated all the way in the case first, and then raise the cluster and install counter shaft? I already have the counter shaft in the cluster. Damn lol
I have a Chevy nv3500 4x4 brand new and i have a problem with it building internal pressure and pushing fluid out of the vent hole. I had one before do the same thing after a clutch replacement. Any idea of the possibilities?
That trans was broken by shock load , if it had that much misalignment in the bell housing it would have had a problem shifting into high or 4th gear. Just my opinion. You cant side step a clutch and expect any component to survive it. No trans. drive shaft, u joint, differential will take this when its abused.
We get boxes broken all the time due to shock loading. You are assuming that it didn't have 4th gear shifting issues ( which it did ). The wear on the mainshaft was pretty severe due to misalignment and the pilot bushing was wasted. This unit was repaired and the housing was over .030 off. Once aligned the unit shifted perfectly and hasn't broken.
I got a question 5 speed mitsibishi express wont change when cold or very hard to change 1st 2 nd3rd after maybe a kilometre or 2 it changes normalyand ok all day long till next day and cold again can you point me at my problem.??????
I 'd like to say that as the channel gets more views that along with the increase in views is the increase in the amount of people leaving comments that are clueless about my work or my long history with manual transmissions. If you want to troll go some place else. Stupid comments about my work, or towards other people here will get you blocked.
The Mopar box listed does indeed have an 18 spline input. Face plating has to do with the design of the dog style engagement tooth because its strength relies on the width of the face rather than the length. If anyone would like to share and question in an intelligent manner I'm all open.
GearBoxVideo I personally really enjoyed the video. After a lot of searching this is the only video I have seen explaining how faceplating actually works. would you be willing to do one on a dog engagement gearset if you have the opportunity?
Working on doing a video soon
Paul, you really are the "Professor" I learn something new every video. Thanks.
Coolness. I just discovered your channel and am enjoying it very much.
Hey man, I just found your channel I really love it. I always appreciate when experts take the time to make, edit, and post these things for us! I actually really love this failure diagnosis style of video- I really hope you'll make another installment on this series sometime in the future!
Thanks I plan on it.
your videos are really good and its possible to learn a lot by them. I never really tore down a manual, except in high school, transmission but I would come here to learn as much as I could.
Busted stuff is cool...when its somebody else's stuff!
Thanks for posting this as it really is an important point, especially when people mix and match transmissions.
Paul, you are the man. I always enjoy your videos. Nice editing job. Thank you for sharing your knowledge with us!!!!!!!!!
Appreciate the feedback
Great video. Very informative with great production values.
Thank you!
Awesome. Very similar to an outboard motor gearcase shift engagement clutch dog system
Very nice succinct video with great points brought out. Thank you!
your videos are badass. thanks man
Appreciate it. Thank you.
I can attest to the fact, if your bell housing, or on my car, scatter shield isn’t aligned correctly, every bearing, bushing and gear is going to suffer, your synchros won’t work like you would like and your clutch will always seem to be dragging. The alignment process is all spelled out in the Chrysler service manuals at least as far back as 1966, and likely a lot earlier. It’s well worth the effort, especially if your using components from different cars. The stuff I’m using is all over 50 years old, and no telling how it’s been abused.
Great video. Right to the point..
Thanks.
very cool video learning alot
Thank you
MustangMedic PROPS
A friend of mine races Stock cars at our local oval track. He has been burning out the clutch every couple of races. His set up includes a Jerico two speed( dog gears), a 5 inch quarter master multiple disk clutch, with a hydraulic throwout bearing, and a small quarter master bellhousing. He doesn't use a motor plate between engine and bellhousing. The engine is a 604 GM crate engine. There must be an alignment problem someplace, you have any suggestions. One thing I forgot to mention is that many of the stock car guys don't use a rear mount, they use mounts at the rear of the engine that bolts to the bellhousing bolts outside.
I'm quite familiar with these setups. It depends on how the clutch is failing. If you are burning it up then it obviously can't handle the load and you may wan't to go up to a 7". If you are blowing out the hubs, probably an alignment issue. Not having a tail mount puts the tortional load 100% on the ears of the transmission.
I did that to the same gears in a bw super t10, unfortunately it split the case front to back during the process for extra points
And that is why you align your bell housing! It helps keep expensive parts from becoming worthless garbage.
Marine applications face plateing is a same principal of the dog clutch.
Oh so a faceplated transmission really shouldn't be street driven? Or just don't engine break by snapping the throttle and don't on off the throttle like crazy in the city?
Eventually the face plates get hammered in the street
@@GearBoxVideo thanks!
Great video!
Thank you!
hey paul when I shift into 5th gear in my t-5 at about 4500-5000 rpm it grinds, my clutch ingagement is perfect, what gives mate!!!!!!???????
Jason Gordon could be a synchro ring on it's way out. Poor clutch release can also be the cause since this ring is rather small compared to the others and works harder
Love this!!
Thanks a bunch!
great video Paul! I have a face plated a833 like in the video. Whats the trick to getting the assembled mainshaft/tailshaft assembly to fully go in? I know the roller bearings are in the input shaft are correct and staying in place and have checked several times to make sure gears/sliders are assembled properly. I'm trying to put the assembly in with the input shaft already in the case as the manual says. I see where some people say to put the input on the mainshaft and then install the input bearing? Need some advice from the pro. Thanks a lot. Casey
The cluster has to be dropped. Once in place you can rotate the tail and insert the countershaft.
so I need to get the main shaft assembly into the input and seated all the way in the case first, and then raise the cluster and install counter shaft? I already have the counter shaft in the cluster. Damn lol
Worked like a champ! Thanks a lot for the help.
I have a Chevy nv3500 4x4 brand new and i have a problem with it building internal pressure and pushing fluid out of the vent hole. I had one before do the same thing after a clutch replacement. Any idea of the possibilities?
Sometimes the wrong fluid will cause that issue or overfilled trans. Try running the breather up higher as well
That trans was broken by shock load , if it had that much misalignment in the bell housing it would have had a problem shifting into high or 4th gear. Just my opinion. You cant side step a clutch and expect any component to survive it. No trans. drive shaft, u joint, differential will take this when its abused.
We get boxes broken all the time due to shock loading. You are assuming that it didn't have 4th gear shifting issues ( which it did ). The wear on the mainshaft was pretty severe due to misalignment and the pilot bushing was wasted. This unit was repaired and the housing was over .030 off. Once aligned the unit shifted perfectly and hasn't broken.
Ok , thank you. I've seen a lot of pilot bearing issues also. Good job and thank you for the reply.
I got a question 5 speed mitsibishi express wont change when cold or very hard to change 1st 2 nd3rd after maybe a kilometre or 2 it changes normalyand ok all day long till next day and cold again can you point me at my problem.??????
If its temperature dependent it may be that the oil thins out when heated and works better, maybe try a lighter weight oil like Synchromesh.
ok thanks for the advise
She was brutalised lol