Great explanation! Most people I know have no idea that there can be this much runout. This will Really show up in an automatic transmission as uneven wear on the bushings that carry the torque converter and input shafts. And as you explained hard shifting with a manual transmission. Thanks again, Pete
Nice job! I just went through this on my 240Z with SB Chevy. The other alignment to check parallelism between the back face of the block (where the bellhousing bolts against) and the back bellhousing rear surface (where the transmission rests against). I ended up having to add shims of different thicknesses to get those parallel. This was with an aftermarket Sonic bellhousing. If these surfaces aren't parallel, the input shaft doesn't shoot straight towards the crank center and the tip of the input shaft will be not centered in the crank/pilot bushing, even though you aligned the bellhousing hole with the crankshaft as you showed. My name is Pete also.
Very timely that I should see this, I have the same job ahead of me. I own a 70 Bee, that way back in the past was the absolute twin to your friends, black with black steel wheels, and widened rears.
Pete... I built a Cobra many years ago and had the same problem. Think it was a combination of off-center and an incorrect pivot ball which wasn't allowing the clutch to fully release. That's the car I put a 460 in! And I have another kit on the way should be around Christmas I have a new 460 block and I'm watching pretty much every video you have to refresh my memory on how to build this thing. It's also why I still think you should create some DVDs. I bought a DVD off of Amazon and if you followed it step by step you would get into a lot of trouble. They tried but they flubbed the sequence and if you didn't have some experience you could really get into trouble. Anyway it's a matter of time before I text you enjoy your weekend and thanks for the video
Hey Pete, I sure wished you live in my town. I'm getting ready to put an M22 in my 69 Camaro and I want to dial indicate my bell housing. But, if it's out of spec, I'll be afraid to try and get my old dowels pins out. So I sure could use an expert like you. LOL
Great channel, very informative. But i have two questions i'm not really able to find answers for online. If you have a car and you can't find the service manual for it anywhere, how do you know how hard you need to torque every screw? And if i were to port my intake larger than the gasket size, what material should i use to make a custom gasket? In general, what is the best material for gaskets? Does the best material change for either petrol or diesel?
I want to put a 5-speed Tremec TKX on a 1967 Corvette, 327/350 h.p., 4-speed M21 Muncie, 3:70 rear. Is it necessary to pull the engine to get a better fitment? Or, can the swap be done without all the extra work? Great video of runout/ correction.
Thank you very much indeed for your very informative video lessons. Can you enlighten me please with regard of how to start to learn car in practice. Would you agree with me I can buy a cheap used car and try to dismantle, study and assemble back? Would this type of practice be the best one? Thank you anticipated
Hi Pete.....I do enjoy your explanations in all your videos. I do tend to follow the MOPAR stuff because..... I too have a 70Bee! At any rate, I wasn't aware of this alignment until I saw something somewhere that said if your block was align honed OR your bellhousing is NOT original to that engine, you can bet the alignment will be off. Mine is BOTH. So I did my measurement. The engine and bell housing are together and sitting in a cradle. My questions are....is it possible to get 3 negative readings and one positive? I suppose so, huh? The measurements are: 12:00 = -.002 03:00= +.002 06:00= -.003 09:00= -.005 All measured with a 04:00 zeroing. My other concern is the readings themselves...I don't really know the increments on this dial. I may have left off a zero! It's probably the same as your HF and I got mine from Amazon. My base fit and held center mass on the crank without having to take a bolt out of the crank. If the TIR warrants offset pins, who do you buy your MOPAR specific pins since they are slightly smaller than half inch?
Get the 12 and 3 to measure 0 and see how far off the 6 and 9 are. If anything, it's off slightly towards the nine position. Any offset pins will work.
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete ...and I did figure out that increments are .0005 per line so I should have an extra zero in front of those numbers. Maybe I'm ok now?
When I installed the T56 in my LS swap, I had to take the faceplate off my transmission and indicate it to the block. I did something I totally regret. I ground out the holes in the bellhousing and put aluminum foil in the hole instead of getting the offset dowel pins. That came back to bite me. 1: The foil setup lost its spec when fully installed, and will become lost again next time I take it apart. Should have gotten actual dowel pins, but I decided to cheap out. 2: The stock bellhousing casting can only be installed with a socket set and I can't reach the bolts. Gotta pull the engine to get the bolts. I wish my firewall had holes in it so I can reach those bolts.
For street driving and drag racing, steel provides the heavier Flywheel needed for moving the car quickly from a dead stop. On the other hand, an aluminum Flywheel or Flexplate is ideal for Road Racing, Autocross, or Circle Track Racing. It's best anytime you need RPMs for quick acceleration or a fast drop in RPMs for taking a sharp turn
Hello I would appreciate your help, I have a problem with a 2011 Ford Fusion sport, I replaced engine 3.5 and it’s not engaging no pressure on transmission, did I misinstalled? Dowel pins? Is there an alignment that I missed? Thanks in advance 😊
That looks interesting. But something is not clear. It seems to me that in order to measure the offset of the bell housing relative to crank centre, the the dial indicator would need itslef to be perfectly centred, otherwise even a perfectly aligned bell housing would give non-centred readings??? How do you precisely centre the position of the dial indicator??? Maybe I'm missing something.
If you put the indicator on the flywheel and set it at zero, that point will remain constant throughout the 360 degree rotation. That is why you have the TIR measuremment
Sorry my misunderstanding. I see now that wherever u fix the dial indicator to the crank, that point shld remain equi-distant from the bell housing circle so the indicator does not have to b perfectly centred so long as it stays in the same posotion throught the circle of measurement 😉
hi Pete, have you ever seen the effect indicator sag has on total indicates run-out? I've been a machinist for 12 years now, and a few years back, i had someone point out indicator sag. the amount of sag is dependent on how your indicator is attached to the base and what kind of base you are using. i dont think a lot of people are aware of this. anyway, here's a video of an example i was able to find. ruclips.net/video/u08SfxVgxNg/видео.htmlsi=1_gMbGhT7GFF6Cjq
@@PetesGarage - If you buy an aftermarket bellhousing, they instruct you to check runout and parallelism. Many DIY'rs don't have the patience or tools to check it though,
However Pete's advice here also applies to refitting original factory standard trans to vehicles original factory standard engine? Is that correct Pete? You still need to measure to ensure alignment refitting original transmission to original engine rather than relying on dowels?
These videos are priceless and can be used for generations thank you for sharing your knowledge Pete!
Thanks my friend
Great explanation! Most people I know have no idea that there can be this much runout. This will Really show up in an automatic transmission as uneven wear on the bushings that carry the torque converter and input shafts.
And as you explained hard shifting with a manual transmission.
Thanks again, Pete
Great comment, thanks Bruce
That's my uncles bee 🐝 Scott told me you were good but watching the video is like painting the picture. Keep up the great work!
Wow, thanks
Nice job! I just went through this on my 240Z with SB Chevy.
The other alignment to check parallelism between the back face of the block (where the bellhousing bolts against) and the back bellhousing rear surface (where the transmission rests against). I ended up having to add shims of different thicknesses to get those parallel. This was with an aftermarket Sonic bellhousing. If these surfaces aren't parallel, the input shaft doesn't shoot straight towards the crank center and the tip of the input shaft will be not centered in the crank/pilot bushing, even though you aligned the bellhousing hole with the crankshaft as you showed.
My name is Pete also.
You're right, I did do that, but it's a bit difficult to do in the car. Thanks for the comment
An excellent tutorial, easy to understand, especially for amatures like me.
Glad it was helpful!
You're a wizard Pete! My first thought would have been the synchros were messed up.
That could be, this felt different though
Great to get a video from you Pete. Either I’m missing them or whatever. Anyway thanks for sharing your knowledge and videos Artie 👍🇺🇸
Thanks Arthur, I'm getting back to making videos for the year
@@PetesGarage I’ll be keeping an eye out for them 👍🇺🇸
Very timely that I should see this, I have the same job ahead of me. I own a 70 Bee, that way back in the past was the absolute twin to your friends, black with black steel wheels, and widened rears.
Great car
Pete... I built a Cobra many years ago and had the same problem. Think it was a combination of off-center and an incorrect pivot ball which wasn't allowing the clutch to fully release. That's the car I put a 460 in! And I have another kit on the way should be around Christmas I have a new 460 block and I'm watching pretty much every video you have to refresh my memory on how to build this thing. It's also why I still think you should create some DVDs. I bought a DVD off of Amazon and if you followed it step by step you would get into a lot of trouble. They tried but they flubbed the sequence and if you didn't have some experience you could really get into trouble. Anyway it's a matter of time before I text you enjoy your weekend and thanks for the video
Thanks for the text, I just may do that
Hey Pete, I sure wished you live in my town. I'm getting ready to put an M22 in my 69 Camaro and I want to dial indicate my bell housing. But, if it's out of spec, I'll be afraid to try and get my old dowels pins out. So I sure could use an expert like you. LOL
That would be nice
Thank your friend for sharing his awesome car. Thank you for the video
I sure will....thanks Jonathan
Thanks Pete for anorher great presentation
My pleasure!
Nice tip Pete
Thanks 👍
Great video!! whille watching I could not help to think why can't you just said "the transmission is out of alignment" LOL...Really cool explanation!
Thanks my friend
Excellent info! Thanks!
You're welcome
Gee you nailed that one, good pickup.
Cheers😊
Thank you kindly
Thanks for this as I will be mating engine and trans as soon as I get my car back from the body shop.
Awesome. good luck
Excellent video
Thank you very much!
Great how to ! Thanks Pete
Glad you enjoyed it
Nice Job Sir.
Many many thanks
Great video, very clear. Is it possible to do this with the clutch installed? I really do not want to take it off to do this job. Thanks in advance
Unfortunately no, there will be no place to mount the indicator
Great video Pete!! 👍
Thanks 👍
Great channel, very informative.
But i have two questions i'm not really able to find answers for online.
If you have a car and you can't find the service manual for it anywhere, how do you know how hard you need to torque every screw?
And if i were to port my intake larger than the gasket size, what material should i use to make a custom gasket? In general, what is the best material for gaskets? Does the best material change for either petrol or diesel?
There are torque specs that go by fastener size and thread pitch. I would trim the gasket to fit. Material changes for gas, diesel, turbo
@@PetesGarage Thanks, i completely forgot those specs even existed.
I want to put a 5-speed Tremec TKX on a 1967 Corvette, 327/350 h.p., 4-speed M21 Muncie, 3:70 rear. Is it necessary to pull the engine to get a better fitment? Or, can the swap be done without all the extra work? Great video of runout/ correction.
I've done many right in the car
@@PetesGarage Good to know.
Thank you very much indeed for your very informative video lessons.
Can you enlighten me please with regard of how to start to learn car in practice.
Would you agree with me I can buy a cheap used car and try to dismantle, study and assemble back? Would this type of practice be the best one?
Thank you anticipated
Yes, buy an old car and take it apart, best way to learn
Thank you for reply.
Any chance and wish how to shoot a video how to learn a car by taking a parts and what to pay attention?
That's a tough one, but Ill try
Hi Pete.....I do enjoy your explanations in all your videos. I do tend to follow the MOPAR stuff because..... I too have a 70Bee! At any rate, I wasn't aware of this alignment until I saw something somewhere that said if your block was align honed OR your bellhousing is NOT original to that engine, you can bet the alignment will be off. Mine is BOTH. So I did my measurement. The engine and bell housing are together and sitting in a cradle. My questions are....is it possible to get 3 negative readings and one positive? I suppose so, huh? The measurements are:
12:00 = -.002
03:00= +.002
06:00= -.003
09:00= -.005
All measured with a 04:00 zeroing.
My other concern is the readings themselves...I don't really know the increments on this dial. I may have left off a zero! It's probably the same as your HF and I got mine from Amazon. My base fit and held center mass on the crank without having to take a bolt out of the crank. If the TIR warrants offset pins, who do you buy your MOPAR specific pins since they are slightly smaller than half inch?
Get the 12 and 3 to measure 0 and see how far off the 6 and 9 are. If anything, it's off slightly towards the nine position. Any offset pins will work.
@@PetesGarage Thanks Pete ...and I did figure out that increments are .0005 per line so I should have an extra zero in front of those numbers. Maybe I'm ok now?
When I installed the T56 in my LS swap, I had to take the faceplate off my transmission and indicate it to the block. I did something I totally regret. I ground out the holes in the bellhousing and put aluminum foil in the hole instead of getting the offset dowel pins. That came back to bite me.
1: The foil setup lost its spec when fully installed, and will become lost again next time I take it apart. Should have gotten actual dowel pins, but I decided to cheap out.
2: The stock bellhousing casting can only be installed with a socket set and I can't reach the bolts. Gotta pull the engine to get the bolts. I wish my firewall had holes in it so I can reach those bolts.
That's unfortunate, grinding parts to fit never usually ends up as a good idea
@@PetesGarage Yeah. Terrible choice.
Thanks Pete!
You're welcome!
Hey Pete. Another great video. Any suggestions for mating up a C6 onto a 460 BBF? And things to be wary of? Thanks in advance!
Thanks James, don't force it on. If it's tough to go on, you can mark the shaft to see where the interference is
Hi Pete, with my planed 460/527 engine, what would be the differents between a aluminum or steel flywheel on the street with some racing ?
For street driving and drag racing, steel provides the heavier Flywheel needed for moving the car quickly from a dead stop. On the other hand, an aluminum Flywheel or Flexplate is ideal for Road Racing, Autocross, or Circle Track Racing. It's best anytime you need RPMs for quick acceleration or a fast drop in RPMs for taking a sharp turn
You da man Pete!
Thanks!
Interesting.
Very!
Hi Pete, where can I get the same dial indicator setup you are using?
Harbor Freight
Oh jeez, something else to worry about when my Muncie goes back in the car!
Gotta make sure it's right
So the standard dowels don't guarantee alignment? I'm a amateur with a clutch noise (pilot bearing i think) after new clutch replacement
They do not, you have to measure because the bellhousing casting could be off
Hello I would appreciate your help, I have a problem with a 2011 Ford Fusion sport, I replaced engine 3.5 and it’s not engaging no pressure on transmission, did I misinstalled? Dowel pins? Is there an alignment that I missed? Thanks in advance 😊
Did you bolt the torque converter to the flex plate?
Hey Pete, I'm building a Ford 460/527 stroker. The projected HP/TQ is between 725-750. Which type and brand would you suggest ?
I like QuickTime
That looks interesting. But something is not clear. It seems to me that in order to measure the offset of the bell housing relative to crank centre, the the dial indicator would need itslef to be perfectly centred, otherwise even a perfectly aligned bell housing would give non-centred readings??? How do you precisely centre the position of the dial indicator??? Maybe I'm missing something.
If you put the indicator on the flywheel and set it at zero, that point will remain constant throughout the 360 degree rotation. That is why you have the TIR measuremment
Zero out the dial indicator
Sorry my misunderstanding. I see now that wherever u fix the dial indicator to the crank, that point shld remain equi-distant from the bell housing circle so the indicator does not have to b perfectly centred so long as it stays in the same posotion throught the circle of measurement 😉
Brilliant
Thanks Steve
That looks like a tough job with the engine inside the car
Well....it's not much fun working on your back
hi Pete, have you ever seen the effect indicator sag has on total indicates run-out? I've been a machinist for 12 years now, and a few years back, i had someone point out indicator sag. the amount of sag is dependent on how your indicator is attached to the base and what kind of base you are using.
i dont think a lot of people are aware of this. anyway, here's a video of an example i was able to find.
ruclips.net/video/u08SfxVgxNg/видео.htmlsi=1_gMbGhT7GFF6Cjq
Or... they could just machine it correctly at the factory......just sayin.
True, as long as you have original parts. A built engine without the matching bellhousing or and aftermarket one causes alignment issues.
@@PetesGarage - If you buy an aftermarket bellhousing, they instruct you to check runout and parallelism. Many DIY'rs don't have the patience or tools to check it though,
The tool are cheap compared to the parts you're checking
@@PetesGarage agreed! Plus, the tools make other jobs so mich easier to do.
However Pete's advice here also applies to refitting original factory standard trans to vehicles original factory standard engine? Is that correct Pete? You still need to measure to ensure alignment refitting original transmission to original engine rather than relying on dowels?