Current cost for genuine Mopar thermostat was around $35 before tax (6/1/23). David is correct. It is an easy to replace part. Just did mine on the 3.6 Pentastar engine, took my time and in 45 min. was done. David is also right about the ‘bleeder’. A ‘light’ approach and you won’t break or over tighten it. Good video and info. Thanks David!
I just had my thermostat replaced on my 2013 Dodge Charger 3.6L engine. (181,000 km on the original) A new OEM thermostat, long life coolant and labour cost me $250. Thanks for the excellent description and advice.
Welcome back David. 2013 GC @93k rocker tick. By watching your video's I was able to replace new rockers and lifters and replaced mostly everything on the reassemble. I'm nearing 70 and other than working on old school Chevy 's when I was in my 20's I would not have taken on this job without your outstanding instructional video's David. You are the Master Mechanic!
@@MotorCityMechanic Thank You for all the information you’ve covered on these engines. Have you ever seen a Mopar thermostat that didn’t have a Mopar logo on it?
Typically I see BEHR (like the paint company….might be the same) on the housing….let’s you know that they are made by another company (sub contracted).
@@MotorCityMechanic I’m going to send a message to your Facebook page. I assumed they are made by someone else, but I didn’t get what I expected. I’m hoping the two dealers I’ve talked to are not pulling some shady stuff.
Great video as always. My 2014 threw the P0128 code the other day. I have had a coolant smell since almost day 1. Dealer was never able to find it, even though they admitted smelling it. Had already replaced the intake cam, 12 lifter and rockers for the Pentestar Tick. Now have the coolant code. Did notice it running cooler than normal and weak heat, so after the P0128 hit I looked around and noticed the pink stain on the plastic crossover. Decided to install the Dorman replacements of the both the crossover and the thermostat housing. While removing the upper engine mount, of course the center bolt broke in the housing. Swapped it all over with the new Dorman stuff and works like a champ. Now I get to deal with the TPMS intermittent light that happened with I picked it up new. Dealer could not figure it out and got the factory involved. They replaced the module but again after 8 years it started to throw the light sometimes. Just found another video with TSB 08-090-17 for a harness to fix the issue! Thanks again for the awesome videos!
Many thanks for those kind words. I wish I could just make videos…..but time is always limited. I need to find a way to work it in. Thanks for following the channel
Had the code for about a year or more, bought a code reader got the P0128 code, car was low on anti freeze filled it , cleared code got about 50 or so miles and the light popped up again. I had a thermostat just in case. So i replaced it the following day cleared code and the light did not come back. Anti freeze $12-$15, Thermostat $17-$19 and about 15 to 20 mins of labor time. Code reader i bought on Amazon $22. Great Video on why and how dude. I used the work how to replace it video from FIXIT Angel, No talking he gets straight to the work.
Thanks David! My son's '15 Chevy 1500 had the same code, and it meant the same thing. Then a week later it spread to daughter's '14 Wrangler 😁. Coolant level was good so went with new Mopar thermostat housing. It has been good for several months now, so I'm sure the thermostat was faulty. Son hasn't made time for me to assist him, so we still have got to change out thermostat on the Chevy..
It’s common for sure, at least on the Chrysler’s. I have had to replace a few coolant temp sensors on the Chevys however. Thanks for watching and for the comment
Thank YOU for this VID Brother, just yesterday @ Br@kes Pl*s, they quoted me $170 for the part alone (includes the assembly), then with a coolant flush $450.00! That was shocking enough. I asked: "How about if you ONLY replace the thermostat?". They replied it would be at around $350.00. I JUST ABOUT fell out of my chair. Napa sold me the after-market part with assembly (not Mopar), for just under $30.00. Thanks to you, I'll be doing it on my '15 Challenger SXT, in my driveway. Thanks again Pally, GREAT VID, insta' liked & subscribed!
David, it's been a while since you posted a new video and this one I found to be very interesting. I am planning on doing a coolant flush and replace with Mopar five-year coolant part number 68048953AC. This is the HOAT coolant that is correct for my '12 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible. I have a new Mopar thermostat part number 5184570AJ, which I'm going to replace at that time. Little by little my car is no longer such a mystery as I have been learning and have done regular oil changes, front and rear disk brake reline and power steering fluid change so far.
Your welcome and thank you. I am surprised I haven’t come across an aluminum one yet. If they are out there I just haven’t seen them. Dorman talked about one for a while but again….until it shows up
@@MotorCityMechanic BTW, my fleet of 3 Promasters (all 2014) is at 734k, 716k and 493k miles. Havent lost a transmission yet, though 2 have needed solenoid packs, 1 needed a pump. We’re in a golden age of Chrysler, and we don’t even know it!
Thanks for the video, I just had the code come up on my 2012 Wrangler JKU, 90k miles...going to check the antifreeze level first like you mentioned then maybe replace the thermostat housing.
After a few of those they became gravy…..some guys would leave that one hard to get to bolt in place and snap the housing and then take it off. I couldn’t ever make myself so that. Still good money back when we were doing a lot of them. Thanks for the support man!
2011 Chry T&C, replaced at 120K for same code. Went out during the winter, and dead giveaway was the heat coming out of the vents wasn't hot, warm at best. About a week later, Check Engine light popped on. If you stayed in the driveway and idled, no issues. As soon as you start driving, never got close to the operating temp. Replaced Thermostat, no issues since then. At 160K now.
That’s another symptom when they stay stuck open for sure….once you make a video you notice the things you forgot to add. Thanks for the comment William
The leak you described at 4:57 was a catastrophic break on my 2014 Grand Caravan. Unfortunately, my 16 year old son was driving, not paying attention and dumped all of the coolant on the pavement, smoking 3 cylinders. Got the code just a couple days before. The moral; keep a thermostat assembly handy, and replace it ASAP if you get the code.
Haven’t seen that happen yet but I’m sure it can happen. I see it mainly in the heater hose “t’s”. Still waiting on someone to make a metal version. Not sure why no one has yet
@@MotorCityMechanic that'd be nice! I know Jeep has made many improvements to the Cherokee drive train over the years too, but that's still the scary part of owning one of these! Can you do a video on PTU and RDU fluid changes sometime? Two speed PTU and two speed locking RDU are so complex, we really need to take good care of them. Not much info on them out there either. Thanks.
Thanks for the video. Have you ever replaced the temperature sensor to fix this code. That is something I have seen as a possible fix. I’d like to know your opinion on that to fix P0128 code. Thank you
50/ 50 with a doorman part . Most doorman parts that don’t require anything to do with sensors or blend door actuators are ok . If any sensors or HVAC actuators are needed it’s best to get from dealer , avoid doorman .
Had that code on a 2005 5.7. Stealership diagnosed it to be the temp sensor and wanted to charge me even though the vehicle was still under power train warranty. I declined their offer for me to give them money. The code only happened when the morning outside temp was between 25 to 30 F and 20min into the trip. Other than the code, the car ran great and never overheated so I didn’t worry about it. A couple years later I changed the coolant and took the thermostat out to inspect it. Sure enough, the factory thermostat was allowing some coolant to flow when it at room temperature due to a warped/wavy seal.
Been awhile for sure. Takes a lot of time to make these videos and time is what I’m always short on. Thanks for watching and for supporting the channel
2012 Town and Country with the 3.6 Just completed the lifter and rocker arm replacement while watching your part 1 & 2 videos. Van is quiet as a mouse now. Now addressing two codes that have been on for a bit. The po128 as described in this video. Will be replacing the thermostat today. But can you help or do you have a video addressing the PO430 code? Both of my o2 sensors read fine with the resistance check. The inlet and outlet temps of the converter are ok with the outlet being ~100° hotter. Only thing i haven't done is a back pressure check, mainly due to the difficulty of removing the o2 sensor. Any tips or experience with this code??
Love your videos, they’ve helped tremendously over the years diagnose and fix my 2014 Ram 4x4 with the 3.6. Recently having trouble and would like your advice. Problem statement: my truck burps antifreeze via the overflow every time I shut truck off after it’s reached temp. Eventually if I don’t check it regularly it will start to over heat. I have replaced water pump, cross over, Hoses, and thermostat about 110k miles and now at 163k miles. When system is pressurized it holds till I start truck then drops. Been told I have a head gasket leaking internally or warped heads and need a new engine. It’s running strong though and currently not throwing any codes. Do I need an engine rebuild or could it be something simple? We’ve bled air out so believe we’ve eliminated that as cause. Thanks for your time and expertise!!!!
This guy rocks, changed thermostat and water cooler crossover beneath W Dorman aluminum refilled coolant bled test drove stays at 205 on my 2018 Charger STX but cannot delete code w my Innova 5160, what's the deal? Will engine light go away? Thanks man
Hey Dave, really enjoy the channel bro. I have a 200 C 2015 3.6 . I’m thinking about putting in a 180 thermostat. Do you know if the powertrain module will accept this temperature difference. Thanks
Years ago I removed a radiator cap on Chevy 305. I knew it had a coolant leak and trying to get home. Stopped at gas station and twisted off cap. Water shot out like a geyser scalding my face. Thank God had on Ray Ban sunglasses to save my eyes
We had a customer do that after a repair one of our techs did. Customer opened it and burnt his wife that was standing next to him. Needless to say lawyers got involved.
Love your content very insightful as I am a new Ram owner. I have a question I’m hoping you could shed some light on. I have a 19 Ram 1500 with 39k miles. It keeps throwing u11e9 code. I can clear it out with a scanner and all is good for several days and then it comes back. The AGS seem to function as normal with no damage. From what I can feel the wires at the pigtail seem solid. Any thoughts or insight? I can open and close the shutters with some resistance by hand as well. Could it be the motor? Or possibly a weak wire? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I have a 2015 chrysler town and country and sounds strange, but /he van runs and drives great til the engine gets to temp then my transmission has some hard shifts and also when coming to a complete stop it some times shuts off. I do notice when sitting at idle the rpm drop and come back up ever so often. Any ideas on my situation?
Having had this code on a 2014 300S I recently bought then ordering both a thermostat, to have on hand as a spare, along with a complete assembly as you show.....does the Mopar branded one come assembled so to speak as mine came in a box sort of a mess. While not an issue to push that spring down I think I may return & go to the local Dodge dealer for the factory part. Also if the car has decent heat does the computer simply think the thermostat is not opening fast enough vs it simply being open 🤔
Thanks for all your great videos very helpful! Just replaced radiator, thermostat and coolant to fixed radiator leaks. Wasn’t getting po128 code before repairing now getting code with check engine light! Any ideas?
Thanks David always great video …but I have questions how many miles it should be replaced and is it the same thing for 2015 dodge change se have 60 miles…..thanks again…..
Love your videos. I have an '09 Charger 5.7L PP w/149k miles. I have very annoying problem filling the gas tank. It works fine for the first 5gals or so, but after that, pump will click off 20 or more times. It's NOT the gas pump. What is the problem?
Where is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor located, I can't find it on my car. I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 S 3.6 AWD, I also have Code P0128 that came up and the auto part store recommended this part also. Thanks for help and videos are a great help; extensive detail for the DYI'er.
What's option 4 & 5? I have a 3.6 pentastar that gets a P0128 very intermittently, have done several thermostats (mopar, autozone). Any sugestions? Scan tool reported a steady temp of 170+-3deg with all the thermostats.
If this was a software update instead of thermostat issue, shouldn't the dealership do that at a no charge? I'm suprised this problem haven't turned into a recall if there has been so many complaints. Also do you have the mopar part nunber for the replacement thermostat?
Hello. Was hoping for some guidance. I drive a 2016 Jeep jku with the 3.6L. I had a leak in my radiator and replaced it. While at it I replaced upper and lower hoses. Trans oil cooler which had a leak where the in/out lines are attached and replaced those lines as well. Replaced tstat and all new mopar coolant. However as soon as I get on the freeway I just running just over half on my analog gauge. It will get to 230 deg. I never had any warming issues prior to the leak. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the very informative video. I have a 2016 dodge 3.6 Grand Caravan with 54,200 miles on it has been a great vehicle for us. But I was told I should think about getting rid of it because the engine head will crack at some point, I know this was a problem on earlier models but is it still a problem on the 2016 model year? At our age I was hoping that this vehicle would be the last one we would have to buy.
Hey man! I have a 2016 Chrysler 300s with a P0128 Code and I went ahead and replaced my thermostat and refilled my coolant, and the code is still there. any idea what it could be?? Temp levels are normal across the board as well
Looking for a video on how to replace the seals on the VVL and CMP sensors for leaking oil at top of valve cover. And, can this be done without causing other problems on a 2020 Voyager 3.6 engine.
Good info, thanks. How has parts availability in general been in your experience lately? I've been hearing "on back-order" for the last few Mopars I've called for parts for. Examples- 2018 Jeep Compass front sway bar link - not available. 2015 Ram 5500 6.4 fuel pump - none in the country.
when opening the little screw on the thermostat do the car need to be running or off. I know i need the reservoir open to refill everything but when i changed mine i left cap off while running to let air get out that way.
Can you tell me if there is 1 or 2 coolant temperature sensors. I find one on the engine block but I don’t see another one and i was told that there’s two sensors.
One coolant and one oil temp. Oil temp is on the oil filter housing/cooler under the intake and coolant is on the rear corner of the left cylinder head area
Thanks for doing this very well-explained video. I did the repair and the check engine light turned off by itself a day later. Yet I ran a scan again and the code is still coming up without the check engine light coming on. Thus my car is not ready for smog yet due to this. Can anyone tell me if the coolant is too full would this cause the error code? As it seems a little overfilled, I will bleed more out in the morning and see if that fixes it.
I just Did a Transmission Fluid Pan/Filter change and got this P0128 code a few hours later after the service, I cleared the code and hasn’t come back since. Do you think this is just a coincidence? Could this also throw this Code?
I got that code but i know why since I change the thermostat to an 180 temp one 😅 if I let it warm up it goes away usually because of hot summer here in the south
The description said you were going to review the Doorman oil filter/cooler adapter, don't know if you have installed one yet. Also, what is your take on the Baxter Performance spin on filter adapter? Good, bad, or just different? Keep up the good work.
Sorry about that mistake. Click and paste is what caused that. I prefer to stay to the original design…..doesn’t have to be the oe part, personally I prefer the Dorman metal option. I actually did a video on it. It was the video I made before this nine. Make sure to check it out
I have this error code on my 2020 chrysler pacifica. After replacing thermostat I have same error. Maybe need to replace thermostat sensor fuse? where it’s located?
2011 Journey t-stat failed. The plastic posts that hold the spring retainer in place broke. I had to flush the system to get all the casting sand out if the heater core and the broken t-stat pieces came out too.
I changed my thermostat last January (2011 Chrysler 200 - 3.6l) because it stuck open. There was no code but absolutely no heat was available for the car interior. Winter in Montreal can be quite cold.
Good day David... my question is about the start stop system on the JL and JT.. with this feature being turned off (by programmer or push the button consistently) should the aux battery fail (die) how does one by pass or keep your JEEP running with only the main battery? TIA if you post up a video..
I love this guy he save me tons of money god bless you man
Current cost for genuine Mopar thermostat was around $35 before tax (6/1/23). David is correct. It is an easy to replace part. Just did mine on the 3.6 Pentastar engine, took my time and in 45 min. was done. David is also right about the ‘bleeder’. A ‘light’ approach and you won’t break or over tighten it. Good video and info. Thanks David!
I just had my thermostat replaced on my 2013 Dodge Charger 3.6L engine. (181,000 km on the original) A new OEM thermostat, long life coolant and labour cost me $250. Thanks for the excellent description and advice.
You’re welcome and I appreciate the comment as well
Welcome back David. 2013 GC @93k rocker tick. By watching your video's I was able to replace new rockers and lifters and replaced mostly everything on the reassemble. I'm nearing 70 and other than working on old school Chevy 's when I was in my 20's I would not have taken on this job without your outstanding instructional video's David. You are the Master Mechanic!
David u are da MAN! Many imitate but fall short. Way short. Admire ur honesty and integrity.
Very descriptive. Very informational. Very professional.
Love your channel as I have 3 cherokees with the 3.2l motor and save a ton by doing the work myself. Thank you for such a great channel
Thanks for following the channel. Glad to see that the videos help!
@@MotorCityMechanic Thank You for all the information you’ve covered on these engines. Have you ever seen a Mopar thermostat that didn’t have a Mopar logo on it?
Typically I see BEHR (like the paint company….might be the same) on the housing….let’s you know that they are made by another company (sub contracted).
@@MotorCityMechanic I’m going to send a message to your Facebook page. I assumed they are made by someone else, but I didn’t get what I expected. I’m hoping the two dealers I’ve talked to are not pulling some shady stuff.
Great video as always. My 2014 threw the P0128 code the other day. I have had a coolant smell since almost day 1. Dealer was never able to find it, even though they admitted smelling it. Had already replaced the intake cam, 12 lifter and rockers for the Pentestar Tick. Now have the coolant code. Did notice it running cooler than normal and weak heat, so after the P0128 hit I looked around and noticed the pink stain on the plastic crossover. Decided to install the Dorman replacements of the both the crossover and the thermostat housing. While removing the upper engine mount, of course the center bolt broke in the housing. Swapped it all over with the new Dorman stuff and works like a champ.
Now I get to deal with the TPMS intermittent light that happened with I picked it up new. Dealer could not figure it out and got the factory involved. They replaced the module but again after 8 years it started to throw the light sometimes. Just found another video with TSB 08-090-17 for a harness to fix the issue!
Thanks again for the awesome videos!
Great to see you back with a new video. Your one of the best on the net.
Many thanks for those kind words. I wish I could just make videos…..but time is always limited. I need to find a way to work it in. Thanks for following the channel
Had the code for about a year or more, bought a code reader got the P0128 code, car was low on anti freeze filled it , cleared code got about 50 or so miles and the light popped up again. I had a thermostat just in case. So i replaced it the following day cleared code and the light did not come back. Anti freeze $12-$15, Thermostat $17-$19 and about 15 to 20 mins of labor time. Code reader i bought on Amazon $22. Great Video on why and how dude. I used the work how to replace it video from FIXIT Angel, No talking he gets straight to the work.
Very good advice replacing hoses while replacing the thermostat, hoses degrade over time as well as the coolant.
You sir are a great service to us all..thankyou for all you share and demonstrate.
Thanks David! My son's '15 Chevy 1500 had the same code, and it meant the same thing. Then a week later it spread to daughter's '14 Wrangler 😁. Coolant level was good so went with new Mopar thermostat housing. It has been good for several months now, so I'm sure the thermostat was faulty. Son hasn't made time for me to assist him, so we still have got to change out thermostat on the Chevy..
It’s common for sure, at least on the Chrysler’s. I have had to replace a few coolant temp sensors on the Chevys however. Thanks for watching and for the comment
Those GM thermostats are either hilariously simple or a Total PITA. my 350 is simple.
Nice to see you uploading again! Thanks for the tip, David!
Felt good to do it again.
Just bought a durango a finding this Channel has gave me a lot a of information thank
Thank YOU for this VID Brother, just yesterday @ Br@kes Pl*s, they quoted me $170 for the part alone (includes the assembly), then with a coolant flush $450.00! That was shocking enough. I asked: "How about if you ONLY replace the thermostat?". They replied it would be at around $350.00. I JUST ABOUT fell out of my chair. Napa sold me the after-market part with assembly (not Mopar), for just under $30.00. Thanks to you, I'll be doing it on my '15 Challenger SXT, in my driveway. Thanks again Pally, GREAT VID, insta' liked & subscribed!
Thank you so much for making these videos, you explain everything very well. Truly a master of your craft! ^-^
Thank you very much for those kind words
David, it's been a while since you posted a new video and this one I found to be very interesting. I am planning on doing a coolant flush and replace with Mopar five-year coolant part number 68048953AC. This is the HOAT coolant that is correct for my '12 Chrysler 200 Touring convertible. I have a new Mopar thermostat part number 5184570AJ, which I'm going to replace at that time. Little by little my car is no longer such a mystery as I have been learning and have done regular oil changes, front and rear disk brake reline and power steering fluid change so far.
Check out that sexy aluminum thermostat housing.
Another great video. Thanks David!
Your welcome and thank you. I am surprised I haven’t come across an aluminum one yet. If they are out there I just haven’t seen them. Dorman talked about one for a while but again….until it shows up
@@MotorCityMechanic BTW, my fleet of 3 Promasters (all 2014) is at 734k, 716k and 493k miles. Havent lost a transmission yet, though 2 have needed solenoid packs, 1 needed a pump.
We’re in a golden age of Chrysler, and we don’t even know it!
Thanks for the video, I just had the code come up on my 2012 Wrangler JKU, 90k miles...going to check the antifreeze level first like you mentioned then maybe replace the thermostat housing.
Excellent video!
Thanks for checking it out
Always great to see you Dave.
Glad to have another video to share….it’s been awhile for sure
Very comprehensive video great work
Thanks for noticing the work that goes into them
Thank you, that's great info ..appreciate all your knowledge
You’re welcome and thank you as well!
Yea they had the flash updates for the KL Jeep 2.4 supposedly to de-sensitize it but like you suggested, just get the thermostat done with a OEM part,
After a few of those they became gravy…..some guys would leave that one hard to get to bolt in place and snap the housing and then take it off. I couldn’t ever make myself so that. Still good money back when we were doing a lot of them. Thanks for the support man!
2011 Chry T&C, replaced at 120K for same code. Went out during the winter, and dead giveaway was the heat coming out of the vents wasn't hot, warm at best. About a week later, Check Engine light popped on. If you stayed in the driveway and idled, no issues. As soon as you start driving, never got close to the operating temp. Replaced Thermostat, no issues since then. At 160K now.
That’s another symptom when they stay stuck open for sure….once you make a video you notice the things you forgot to add. Thanks for the comment William
You are a guru, kudos!
Great information again! Your videos are very very helpful. 🖖🙌. Thank you again for all your help and time putting these videos together.
Thanks man all questions answered right on the dot
Thank you for all your helpful repair tips!
great video, very informative. Fixed an issue 2 garages could not diagnose.
Keep them coming… motorcity!!! I wanna know everything default about these engines!!!
I certainly will. Not too much that I haven’t covered on these over the years.
@@MotorCityMechanic where is the passenger side hvac auactor located ?
Actuator **
I have a 2013 Dodge Charger 3.6
The leak you described at 4:57 was a catastrophic break on my 2014 Grand Caravan. Unfortunately, my 16 year old son was driving, not paying attention and dumped all of the coolant on the pavement, smoking 3 cylinders. Got the code just a couple days before. The moral; keep a thermostat assembly handy, and replace it ASAP if you get the code.
Haven’t seen that happen yet but I’m sure it can happen. I see it mainly in the heater hose “t’s”. Still waiting on someone to make a metal version. Not sure why no one has yet
Excellent video, you were very thorough and well explained.
Thanks! I'll keep an eye on that housing for leaks. 3.2, 2020 Cherokee
Hopefully on a 2020 you won’t have issues
@@MotorCityMechanic that'd be nice! I know Jeep has made many improvements to the Cherokee drive train over the years too, but that's still the scary part of owning one of these! Can you do a video on PTU and RDU fluid changes sometime? Two speed PTU and two speed locking RDU are so complex, we really need to take good care of them. Not much info on them out there either. Thanks.
Thanks for the break down on this. Appreciate the advice.
Thanks for the video. Have you ever replaced the temperature sensor to fix this code. That is something I have seen as a possible fix. I’d like to know your opinion on that to fix P0128 code. Thank you
Had to do mine at about 100k miles. Had to roll the dice with Dorman... just turned 200k and no problems, I got lucky lol.
Great video as always!
Dorman I believe makes a good product. There is a hose assemble they make for Dodge 3.6 that T is aluminum not plastic
Good to hear, got one at Autzone today and the Duralast was a Dorman.
50/ 50 with a doorman part . Most doorman parts that don’t require anything to do with sensors or blend door actuators are ok . If any sensors or HVAC actuators are needed it’s best to get from dealer , avoid doorman .
excelente explicacion saludos desde mexico
Excellent video! Thank you
another great video david
Thanks my man!
Nice information. Plastic thermostat housing because of course it is. My current 3.6L is in the shop for a broken lower radiator connection. Plastic.
You have to love plastic in the cooling system! Give it time….it will fail. Thanks for watching
Had that code on a 2005 5.7. Stealership diagnosed it to be the temp sensor and wanted to charge me even though the vehicle was still under power train warranty. I declined their offer for me to give them money. The code only happened when the morning outside temp was between 25 to 30 F and 20min into the trip. Other than the code, the car ran great and never overheated so I didn’t worry about it. A couple years later I changed the coolant and took the thermostat out to inspect it. Sure enough, the factory thermostat was allowing some coolant to flow when it at room temperature due to a warped/wavy seal.
Yeah temp sensors aren’t common on Chrysler’s…..other brands like Chevy yeah.
He's back!
Been awhile for sure. Takes a lot of time to make these videos and time is what I’m always short on. Thanks for watching and for supporting the channel
Thanks for helping others....✌️
2012 Town and Country with the 3.6 Just completed the lifter and rocker arm replacement while watching your part 1 & 2 videos. Van is quiet as a mouse now. Now addressing two codes that have been on for a bit. The po128 as described in this video. Will be replacing the thermostat today. But can you help or do you have a video addressing the PO430 code? Both of my o2 sensors read fine with the resistance check. The inlet and outlet temps of the converter are ok with the outlet being ~100° hotter. Only thing i haven't done is a back pressure check, mainly due to the difficulty of removing the o2 sensor. Any tips or experience with this code??
Thank you David👍👍 Great info.
Your welcome and thanks for watching
Love your videos, they’ve helped tremendously over the years diagnose and fix my 2014 Ram 4x4 with the 3.6. Recently having trouble and would like your advice. Problem statement: my truck burps antifreeze via the overflow every time I shut truck off after it’s reached temp. Eventually if I don’t check it regularly it will start to over heat. I have replaced water pump, cross over, Hoses, and thermostat about 110k miles and now at 163k miles. When system is pressurized it holds till I start truck then drops. Been told I have a head gasket leaking internally or warped heads and need a new engine. It’s running strong though and currently not throwing any codes. Do I need an engine rebuild or could it be something simple? We’ve bled air out so believe we’ve eliminated that as cause. Thanks for your time and expertise!!!!
This guy rocks, changed thermostat and water cooler crossover beneath W Dorman aluminum refilled coolant bled test drove stays at 205 on my 2018 Charger STX but cannot delete code w my Innova 5160, what's the deal? Will engine light go away? Thanks man
Thank you brother from iraq
Your welcome and thanks for watching
@@MotorCityMechanic thank you
Very helpful, thank you!
Hey Dave, really enjoy the channel bro. I have a 200 C 2015 3.6 . I’m thinking about putting in a 180 thermostat. Do you know if the powertrain module will accept
this temperature difference. Thanks
Years ago I removed a radiator cap on Chevy 305. I knew it had a coolant leak and trying to get home. Stopped at gas station and twisted off cap. Water shot out like a geyser scalding my face. Thank God had on Ray Ban sunglasses to save my eyes
We had a customer do that after a repair one of our techs did. Customer opened it and burnt his wife that was standing next to him. Needless to say lawyers got involved.
Dave is too Coooool. Thanks Much .👍
Love your content very insightful as I am a new Ram owner. I have a question I’m hoping you could shed some light on. I have a 19 Ram 1500 with 39k miles. It keeps throwing u11e9 code. I can clear it out with a scanner and all is good for several days and then it comes back. The AGS seem to function as normal with no damage. From what I can feel the wires at the pigtail seem solid. Any thoughts or insight? I can open and close the shutters with some resistance by hand as well. Could it be the motor? Or possibly a weak wire? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I have a 2015 chrysler town and country and sounds strange, but /he van runs and drives great til the engine gets to temp then my transmission has some hard shifts and also when coming to a complete stop it some times shuts off. I do notice when sitting at idle the rpm drop and come back up ever so often. Any ideas on my situation?
Thxs Dave good info......
Your welcome Ed!
Having had this code on a 2014 300S I recently bought then ordering both a thermostat, to have on hand as a spare, along with a complete assembly as you show.....does the Mopar branded one come assembled so to speak as mine came in a box sort of a mess. While not an issue to push that spring down I think I may return & go to the local Dodge dealer for the factory part. Also if the car has decent heat does the computer simply think the thermostat is not opening fast enough vs it simply being open 🤔
Excellent video 👍
Thank you sir for this vedeo.. New friend her😊
Excellent video
Once you replace it will the light shut off? Or do you have to clear it with a scan tool?
Technically if all is good and fixed……the light should go off after a few days otherwise I just clear it with a scanner
I just replaced mine and drove it today for the first time, light still on but will give it a day or two more to see if it goes out on its own.
What about codes P0020,P0198,P0523 on the 3.6 and it in the 2012 Chrysler 200 S if you could help me it be highly appreciated Dave
Well done David. Thank you.
Thanks for all your great videos very helpful! Just replaced radiator, thermostat and coolant to fixed radiator leaks. Wasn’t getting po128 code before repairing now getting code with check engine light! Any ideas?
Thanks David always great video …but I have questions how many miles it should be replaced and is it the same thing for 2015 dodge change se have 60 miles…..thanks again…..
Love your videos. I have an '09 Charger 5.7L PP w/149k miles. I have very annoying problem filling the gas tank. It works fine for the first 5gals or so, but after that, pump will click off 20 or more times. It's NOT the gas pump. What is the problem?
I was told way back when aluminum heads were first made that aluminum fines would stick in the shaft of thermostat .
Where is the Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor located, I can't find it on my car. I have a 2015 Chrysler 200 S 3.6 AWD, I also have Code P0128 that came up and the auto part store recommended this part also. Thanks for help and videos are a great help; extensive detail for the DYI'er.
Engine light is still on after replacing thermostat. No leaks and snugged, not over tighten.
What's option 4 & 5? I have a 3.6 pentastar that gets a P0128 very intermittently, have done several thermostats (mopar, autozone). Any sugestions? Scan tool reported a steady temp of 170+-3deg with all the thermostats.
Thanks. What is your take on the Baxter Performance spin on filter adapter? Good, bad, or just different?
If this was a software update instead of thermostat issue, shouldn't the dealership do that at a no charge? I'm suprised this problem haven't turned into a recall if there has been so many complaints. Also do you have the mopar part nunber for the replacement thermostat?
Will this thermostat being bad cause any issues with the throttle body needing replacement too?
excllent video mate, thanks
Best mechanic 👊🏻
Many thanks!
Hello. Was hoping for some guidance. I drive a 2016 Jeep jku with the 3.6L. I had a leak in my radiator and replaced it. While at it I replaced upper and lower hoses. Trans oil cooler which had a leak where the in/out lines are attached and replaced those lines as well. Replaced tstat and all new mopar coolant. However as soon as I get on the freeway I just running just over half on my analog gauge. It will get to 230 deg. I never had any warming issues prior to the leak. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
Thank you for the very informative video. I have a 2016 dodge 3.6 Grand Caravan with 54,200 miles on it has been a great vehicle for us. But I was told I should think about getting rid of it because the engine head will crack at some point, I know this was a problem on earlier models but is it still a problem on the 2016 model year? At our age I was hoping that this vehicle would be the last one we would have to buy.
Twoje filmy są super, dużo się z nich dowiedziałem, działaj dalej pozdrawiam cherokee kl 3.2
Those are wrangler therms. The charger ones point to the left.
What do u think about the RIPP 180 degree thermostats?
Thanks really informative
Hey man! I have a 2016 Chrysler 300s with a P0128 Code and I went ahead and replaced my thermostat and refilled my coolant, and the code is still there. any idea what it could be?? Temp levels are normal across the board as well
Looking for a video on how to replace the seals on the VVL and CMP sensors for leaking oil at top of valve cover. And, can this be done without causing other problems on a 2020 Voyager 3.6 engine.
I just replaced it in my daughters 2015 chrysler 300 and its still coding. The next one we have tried is the coolant temp sensor. any ideas?
Good info, thanks.
How has parts availability in general been in your experience lately? I've been hearing "on back-order" for the last few Mopars I've called for parts for. Examples- 2018 Jeep Compass front sway bar link - not available. 2015 Ram 5500 6.4 fuel pump - none in the country.
Just depends. Some parts yes and others no. Lately not as bad as a few months ago. Been lucky at finding what ever I need so far
when opening the little screw on the thermostat do the car need to be running or off. I know i need the reservoir open to refill everything but when i changed mine i left cap off while running to let air get out that way.
Can you tell me if there is 1 or 2 coolant temperature sensors. I find one on the engine block but I don’t see another one and i was told that there’s two sensors.
One coolant and one oil temp. Oil temp is on the oil filter housing/cooler under the intake and coolant is on the rear corner of the left cylinder head area
P083B , I have this code. Transmission sensor. How hard is it to fix?
Thanks for doing this very well-explained video. I did the repair and the check engine light turned off by itself a day later. Yet I ran a scan again and the code is still coming up without the check engine light coming on. Thus my car is not ready for smog yet due to this. Can anyone tell me if the coolant is too full would this cause the error code? As it seems a little overfilled, I will bleed more out in the morning and see if that fixes it.
I just Did a Transmission Fluid Pan/Filter change and got this P0128 code a few hours later after the service, I cleared the code and hasn’t come back since. Do you think this is just a coincidence? Could this also throw this Code?
Awesome.Very helpful.
I got that code but i know why since I change the thermostat to an 180 temp one 😅 if I let it warm up it goes away usually because of hot summer here in the south
The description said you were going to review the Doorman oil filter/cooler adapter, don't know if you have installed one yet. Also, what is your take on the Baxter Performance spin on filter adapter? Good, bad, or just different? Keep up the good work.
Sorry about that mistake. Click and paste is what caused that. I prefer to stay to the original design…..doesn’t have to be the oe part, personally I prefer the Dorman metal option. I actually did a video on it. It was the video I made before this nine. Make sure to check it out
I have this error code on my 2020 chrysler pacifica. After replacing thermostat I have same error. Maybe need to replace thermostat sensor fuse? where it’s located?
2011 Journey t-stat failed. The plastic posts that hold the spring retainer in place broke. I had to flush the system to get all the casting sand out if the heater core and the broken t-stat pieces came out too.
I changed my thermostat last January (2011 Chrysler 200 - 3.6l) because it stuck open. There was no code but absolutely no heat was available for the car interior. Winter in Montreal can be quite cold.
It can certainly cause that for sure. Thanks for the comment and make sure to subscribe
Good day David... my question is about the start stop system on the JL and JT.. with this feature being turned off (by programmer or push the button consistently) should the aux battery fail (die) how does one by pass or keep your JEEP running with only the main battery? TIA if you post up a video..
Wish you would've shown where the temp sensor unit was. I was told this could be the problem also.
GM Ecotec engines were infamous for posting codes for not heating up fast enough.
Thanks