If I was a fly, i would want to live in your shop so I could learn up close, but my ass would just get swatted ,so I'll just keep watching the AWESOME videos you make. Thanks.
Shows how little I know. I never would of believed that whacking a crank with a hammer would true it up. And once installed it stays that way? Amazing. I wish I had your shop, and skill!
Speaking of buyer beware? Bought the 74 FXE in 1993 i'm still riding. AMF! had high oil pressure when warm? ran weak. rear cylinder had frozen rings. from detonation. tore apart . The front rocker box shaft only had 2 drill holes! monday morn./late friday build? Did top end at work myself (with old corn binder tools) runs fine!? pressure OK. keep up the vids' My girl wears your T shirts; doesn't have a clue what they mean? B Good!
You prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account?? I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Adonis Sterling i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now. I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
ho shuuut .. you're master of perfection ..and now i understand your comments and your experience of working , I see'n other guys are more nasty to work and not patience for balancing the crank .. and they leave to much ''play '' in the crank .. And they say '' it's perfect '' ??? .. they can criticize you but it's because they don't know how to do it with you patience .. cheers ..
how often do the threads pull on the nut or the shaft when you are torquing the crankshaft? I thought I heard you say it was a little soft when you torqued the rod pin.
no, because that knocks it out of true and i have to redo it again. i only retorque if i do allot off straightening on the crank. after awhile the shafts move in the tapers to much and lose their torque so i have to redo them and retrue. tatro
just because some is looking at something does not mean they are seeing it. ever look for something you lost then end up saying o there it is right in front of me. Plus the screen to view the video you are recording is pretty small.
Some years ago, a friend came by my house to visit....when he was leaving, he spent 20 minutes looking all around for his sunglasses....finally he realized they were sitting on top of his head the whole time.
it doesn't have to be, that is what the centers are for. they self align by letting the crank sit where it wants too and still spin on center. if the centers moved, then you would have problems. tatro
How much side-to-side end play on the rods do you suggest? I heard you say AT LEAST 0.020". My manual is saying that 0.020" is the upper limit. I'm rebuilding a 1974 stock 74" motor. I have the flywheels trued and ready, but I just measured the end-play on mine and it's around 0.035". Should I order some flywheel washers to take up that play? Thank you for the videos, Tatro!
@@TatroMachine Tatro,what do you when the endplay to big or to small?you can onliy one size for the flywheelwasher buy.S&S have no washers on there flywheels? Thanks for youre viseos
i Hope your not paying the camera man he sucks at it Damn your videos are Great But You Need a New Camera Man !!!! and Thanks For Building a Stroker Shovel Head Engine all ways wanted too do the same thing years ago ! and that's the hard part of the build the fly wheels
i have very good experience with static balancing all my parts. even my stock crank at over 8000 sustained rpms if holds up. that means i hold the r's for over a mile at them rpms, not just a flash deal like drag racing. everything has pros and cons, pick the one that works best for you. tatro
it's a metal table, that he files, absolutely cleans everything 10 times, knows more about a harley and every yr then you know about your own body..I wonder how much banging it takes to hurt hardened steel , holy smokes, maybe if you were busy doing it quietly,and softly like you say then we wouldn't hear you batching about someone else..he is such a hack has 10yrs work and needs nothing to stay in business, people are begging to get in..
@@TatroMachine I do many different types of engines so I use a lathe and dial indicators and realize it is a bit of an advantage for solid workholding and ease of movement of the flywheels. I realize that everyone doesn't have the need for a lathe in their shop. The truing stand works perfectly fine if setup and used correctly. I'd suggest bolting it down as a first step. The big disadvantage with them is not being able to measure the movements as they happen. The truing stand's tattletales only allow comparison after some unknown movement has occurred. Each reset begins another test; a machinists' pet peeve. Replacing the tattletales with dial indicators is the second step in helping yourself become more efficient. Using a more supportive method for the flywheel half will make much better use of your hammer effort. Completely disengaging, rather than just slightly loosening, the stand's centers will prevent the misdirected scissoring movement you were measuring. Doing this will also take care of your tool and help insure it is accurate for your next measurement.
The words you're reading are from a quarantined grandpa using a grandson's RUclips account for entertainment. Don't hold these words against him. A shop doesn't accumulate the equipment and materials that I see in the background by not working on things for a good while. I'm confident you've seen your share of the inside of these engines, and you are probably knowledgeable, but the video doesn't convey that knowledge very well. The sloppy and inefficient nature of your work, and lack of attention to detail during the process is of no benefit to you or the video's viewers. There is no advantage to throwing tools and materials around like you appear to have a habit of. There's no advantage to placing the wrong bearings in a cage. No advantage to taking the time to use a torque wrench to reach unequal and ambiguous numbers. Let's hope you've discovered all your mistakes prior to assembly and delivery. I hope it's just a show for the camera and not your normal routine. If this is your own engine, or you're billing by the job, I suppose the time wasted is entirely up to you. If it is a customer's engine and you're billing by the hour I will go ahead and apologize to your customer on your behalf.
you have your methods and i have mine. a lathe is not more rigid than my truing stand. my stand is all one piece and a lathe is not. when you beat on a dial indicator it screws up the movement because they are not made for that kind of force. my mechanical indicators are very accurate and will take the impact just fine. that is why these old ass tool designs still work just fine to this day. the way i do things works very well for me and has been proven too over many years. when i find or am told of something that is better for my applications then i make changes. doing something faster is not always better and i doubt that anyone could do it much faster than i do with the same accuracy. i can do things very fast if i didn't care about how far out of true it is. getting it down to under a .0005 is not easy and takes time. getting down to .001-.002 is fast and easy. harley does .006-.008 because they don't give a crap, i do. tatro
If I was a fly, i would want to live in your shop so I could learn up close, but my ass would just get swatted ,so I'll just keep watching the AWESOME videos you make. Thanks.
Shows how little I know. I never would of believed that whacking a crank with a hammer would true it up. And once installed it stays that way? Amazing. I wish I had your shop, and skill!
Thanks for showing us!
Speaking of buyer beware? Bought the 74 FXE in 1993 i'm still riding. AMF! had high oil pressure when warm? ran weak. rear cylinder had frozen rings. from detonation. tore apart . The front rocker box shaft only had 2 drill holes! monday morn./late friday build? Did top end at work myself (with old corn binder tools) runs fine!? pressure OK. keep up the vids' My girl wears your T shirts; doesn't have a clue what they mean? B Good!
good job and still going.
tatro
love learning from your videos. thanks.
You prolly dont care at all but does any of you know of a tool to get back into an Instagram account??
I was dumb forgot my login password. I love any tricks you can give me
@Nolan Drake Instablaster ;)
@Adonis Sterling i really appreciate your reply. I got to the site on google and Im waiting for the hacking stuff now.
I see it takes quite some time so I will reply here later with my results.
@Adonis Sterling it did the trick and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy:D
Thanks so much you really help me out!
@Nolan Drake glad I could help xD
.. A dark art, indeed,.. Superb stuff ,..
ho shuuut .. you're master of perfection ..and now i understand your comments and your experience of working , I see'n other guys are more nasty to work and not patience for balancing the crank .. and they leave to much ''play '' in the crank .. And they say '' it's perfect '' ??? .. they can criticize you but it's because they don't know how to do it with you patience ..
cheers ..
Realy impressiv. Good Job.
Phenomanal! Within .0005" of "true"...
trueing a crankshaft is like chasing your own tail.....but I can tell you have done a few.
how often do the threads pull on the nut or the shaft when you are torquing the crankshaft? I thought I heard you say it was a little soft when you torqued the rod pin.
not very often except on 45's and sportster mainshafts. they are very soft.
tatro
How many ft pounds do use to tighten the pinion shaft and crank pin?
Do you torque the crank pin nut anymore after you finish truing it?
no, because that knocks it out of true and i have to redo it again. i only retorque if i do allot off straightening on the crank. after awhile the shafts move in the tapers to much and lose their torque so i have to redo them and retrue.
tatro
Truing is the hardest part for me
Man you sure know your stuff.
I was wondering how your cameraman could be standing there and not say anything about some of those roller looking like they were an 8th inch short.
just because some is looking at something does not mean they are seeing it. ever look for something you lost then end up saying o there it is right in front of me. Plus the screen to view the video you are recording is pretty small.
Some years ago, a friend came by my house to visit....when he was leaving, he spent 20 minutes looking all around for his sunglasses....finally he realized they were sitting on top of his head the whole time.
no big deal. it is going to have to come apart anyway
How to make sure that the truing stand itself is true (straight from one end to the other) ?
it doesn't have to be, that is what the centers are for. they self align by letting the crank sit where it wants too and still spin on center. if the centers moved, then you would have problems.
tatro
ton san stretch a piano wire and off set by shim thickness / your eye can see straight
I heard the video never mind thanks for the info
How much side-to-side end play on the rods do you suggest? I heard you say AT LEAST 0.020". My manual is saying that 0.020" is the upper limit. I'm rebuilding a 1974 stock 74" motor. I have the flywheels trued and ready, but I just measured the end-play on mine and it's around 0.035". Should I order some flywheel washers to take up that play? Thank you for the videos, Tatro!
.018-.022 end play works good on the cranks. more doesn't hurt anything and less can.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Tatro,what do you when the endplay to big or to small?you can onliy one size for the flywheelwasher buy.S&S have no washers on there flywheels?
Thanks for youre viseos
VERY GOOD SERVICE, BRASIL OK.
Ah yes …… truing flywheels ……….good times !
i Hope your not paying the camera man he sucks at it Damn your videos are Great But You Need a New Camera Man !!!! and Thanks For Building a Stroker Shovel Head Engine all ways wanted too do the same thing years ago ! and that's the hard part of the build the fly wheels
And you have to do it twice if you're balancing the crank...
THE MASTER
I’ve got very good experience by letting all cranks balance dynamically before I put them in Engines , whether It‘s a car crank or a bike crank !!!
i have very good experience with static balancing all my parts. even my stock crank at over 8000 sustained rpms if holds up. that means i hold the r's for over a mile at them rpms, not just a flash deal like drag racing. everything has pros and cons, pick the one that works best for you.
tatro
the millwakee shaker!
Bang.....bang bang! This guy slams everything around. Hack
yes
You must own a successful shop in a heavily populated area where motorcycles are everywhere as well, right?
it's a metal table, that he files, absolutely cleans everything 10 times, knows more about a harley and every yr then you know about your own body..I wonder how much banging it takes to hurt hardened steel , holy smokes, maybe if you were busy doing it quietly,and softly like you say then we wouldn't hear you batching about someone else..he is such a hack has 10yrs work and needs nothing to stay in business, people are begging to get in..
Never ever smash to the flywheels when the crank is in between centers !!
70 years of doing that proves you are wrong. get over it.
tatro
@@TatroMachine Maybe ypou`re a lucky guy. But wrong will be wrong. Real professionals will never choose yor way...
❤❤❤😂
what ever you charge to build a motor is not enough
If you can get the truing down the rest is a piece of 🍰
So he is mixing new and old bearings I would not want him working on mine
A very inefficient truing lesson. Slightly painful to watch.
so how would you do it. how about some videos showing how to do it correctly and quickly.
tatro
@@TatroMachine I do many different types of engines so I use a lathe and dial indicators and realize it is a bit of an advantage for solid workholding and ease of movement of the flywheels. I realize that everyone doesn't have the need for a lathe in their shop.
The truing stand works perfectly fine if setup and used correctly. I'd suggest bolting it down as a first step. The big disadvantage with them is not being able to measure the movements as they happen. The truing stand's tattletales only allow comparison after some unknown movement has occurred.
Each reset begins another test; a machinists' pet peeve. Replacing the tattletales with dial indicators is the second step in helping yourself become more efficient. Using a more supportive method for the flywheel half will make much better use of your hammer effort. Completely disengaging, rather than just slightly loosening, the stand's centers will prevent the misdirected scissoring movement you were measuring. Doing this will also take care of your tool and help insure it is accurate for your next measurement.
The words you're reading are from a quarantined grandpa using a grandson's RUclips account for entertainment. Don't hold these words against him.
A shop doesn't accumulate the equipment and materials that I see in the background by not working on things for a good while. I'm confident you've seen your share of the inside of these engines, and you are probably knowledgeable, but the video doesn't convey that knowledge very well.
The sloppy and inefficient nature of your work, and lack of attention to detail during the process is of no benefit to you or the video's viewers. There is no advantage to throwing tools and materials around like you appear to have a habit of. There's no advantage to placing the wrong bearings in a cage. No advantage to taking the time to use a torque wrench to reach unequal and ambiguous numbers. Let's hope you've discovered all your mistakes prior to assembly and delivery. I hope it's just a show for the camera and not your normal routine.
If this is your own engine, or you're billing by the job, I suppose the time wasted is entirely up to you.
If it is a customer's engine and you're billing by the hour I will go ahead and apologize to your customer on your behalf.
you have your methods and i have mine. a lathe is not more rigid than my truing stand. my stand is all one piece and a lathe is not. when you beat on a dial indicator it screws up the movement because they are not made for that kind of force. my mechanical indicators are very accurate and will take the impact just fine. that is why these old ass tool designs still work just fine to this day. the way i do things works very well for me and has been proven too over many years. when i find or am told of something that is better for my applications then i make changes. doing something faster is not always better and i doubt that anyone could do it much faster than i do with the same accuracy. i can do things very fast if i didn't care about how far out of true it is. getting it down to under a .0005 is not easy and takes time. getting down to .001-.002 is fast and easy. harley does .006-.008 because they don't give a crap, i do.
tatro
Tatro you are an incompetent fool.
ALWAYS remove the assembly from the stand before hitting it!!!
And NEVER NEVER use loctite on a taper!!!!
$4
Fire your camera operator.