Flame Testing Building Materials +More Building Science Hands On Tests
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- Опубликовано: 14 июл 2024
- From the AIA Austin Building Enclosures Council annual conference: We checked out the hands on displays outside for some great Building Science demos!
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Huge thanks to our Show sponsors Polywall, Huber, Dorken Delta, Prosoco, Rockwool & Viewrail for helping to make these videos possible! These are all trusted companies that Matt has worked with for years and trusts their products in the homes he builds. We would highly encourage you to check out their websites for more info.
www.Poly-Wall.com
www.Dorken.com
www.Huberwood.com
www.Prosoco.com
www.Viewrail.com
www.Rockwool.com
Tyvek house wrap not only resists flames and extreme heat but will automatically contact emergency services to inspect any nearby homes sheathed with Zip System as a precaution.
Sincerely,
DuPont
Hahaha, DuPont is a bad company.
Jake Davis
I hate it when Tevek buys adds on Matt’s videos!
Hey Matt ... love your videos especially the ones for your own home.
Would love to see a start to finish series of your house including plans, elevation and everything else related to building 👍👍
I think you should do a complete video on each of these stations!!!
@matt, and/or Build Show editors: Primarily, I'd love to work with you. Can y'all start adding a compressor to the audio track? The dynamic range is frustrating sometimes, where Matt's voice is loud and clear, but the other people he chats with are drastically lower when they aren't discretely miked up. It's most noticeable in the videos like this, at conferences especially. Some decent compression would be amazing!
Very cool! So it comes down to earth, air, fire and water after all.
As a professional welder, welding RTU braces on commercial buildings, it’s extremely challenging to not light that TPO roofing and insulation on fire. Had a couple very close calls. That TPO goes up RIGHT NOW and spreads very quickly. There is never a good way to protect the insulation when you are welding 1/2” away from it.
Thanks for spreading this great information.
Exactly what info was that...…….
Do more tests like these!!
Thanks for reminding me why solid concrete is so superior
Expensive, high Co2, very poor insulation ... Only the third item can be mitigated. But yes, it has advantages as well. To have your cake and eat it too look into AAC (autoclaved aerated concrete). We should be using it much more in the USA. It's been around for many decades in northern Europe.
@@HistoricHomePlans LOL, I'm currently building w ACC. Having been in many AAC homes, I can testify that they are comfortable beyond their nominal R-value, which is an insufficient metric. Like measuring a pickup solely by towing capacity... there's more to it.
I think the cost is often overstated when you account for the savings in trades, scheduling, etc.
100% right on the CO2. There is concrete, however, that acts as a carbon sink, but that requires supplemental insulation (like stick-built).
Paradise, CA would look a lot different if they built like the hurricane-resistant block homes in FL
@@HistoricHomePlans I cant really remember the process but they have a concrete mix that is either very low or possibly even carbon negative. But, the expensive part is one you just cant combat
Where's the cellulose insulation?
I listened to the description of what they were going to do and had to give a thumbs up before two minutes had gone by. But to be honest, you had me at fire ... ;-)
Interesting and educational
*Rock wool wins* in my opinion.
The issue is that it can not be used in places where humidity does accumulate from cold condensation.
Combo sandwich of thin plastic outside and rook wool inside works best, I think.
Humidity makes everything more complicated.
i know I'm kinda off topic but does anybody know of a good site to watch newly released series online?
@Gatlin Aries Flixportal =)
@Leroy Beckett thanks, I signed up and it seems to work :D I really appreciate it!!
@Gatlin Aries Glad I could help :D
Some 15 years ago we had issues with nail pops in subfloor over LVL (not solid sawn) T&B chord I joists. By happenstance, I ran across a report on nail types for various lumbers. We had been using ring-shanks for our subflooring since whenever, but turns out this is WRONG for engineered lumber. The glues in the engineered materials make the fibers more rigid and brittle, and the annular rings on the ring-shanks nails act like a broach does in metal. They punch a hole in the engineered wood, so that the fibers do not close around the rings, and cannot therefore provide resistance to withdrawal. A smooth shank will push aside the wood fibers, without cutting them, and the glues and the (typical) coating on the nail shank will develop the needed withdrawal resistance. In solid sawn, the ring shank pushes aside the unreinforced (by glues) fibers, which then relax back into the grooves, providing the greater withdrawal resistance.
We have also found that 1 1/2" hanger nails into solid sawn generally loosen during drying (really noticeable on hurricane ties). This is significant enough that the rule is 2 1/2" hanger nails if at all possible, whatever the spec. We also like structural screws a lot; they don't become loose, but the labor is a bit intense. We are often able to get away from hurricane ties by using solid rollover blocking flush to exterior on the top plate, between rafter tails, and using tall sheathing to tie the wall studs to that blocking, which is then nailed solidly to the rafters. Just need a responsive engineer, and careful management of the framers. Oh, we don't do vented attics, and do seal the wall sheathing to roof sheathing, as part of the continuous exterior insulation system, as per these videos.
Why not spec a Parallam post and save the bolt-up labor?
Classic elemental testing. _Earth_Fire_Wind_Water_
I wonder if that was on purpose.
Matt,
Do you have an experience with Dow Thermax Polyiso insulation? I’ve read some information that states thermax can be left exposed in the basements and crawl spaces. Any thoughts?
As a low voltage installer we have always followed suit with the electricians and used a fire block foam (240 degree ignition rating) to seal our penetrations. Recently we had to go replace a job with a fire caulking that meets ASTM E 136 or has an ignition temperature of 350 degrees. We chose to use 3M FB 136 which meets both standards (temperature rating to 1300+ degrees) but I'm trying to understand why. I read that standard 2x framing burns at 350 degrees so I understand the ignition rating theory. I was always told that the point of fire protection is to give the occupant more time to escape. It seems as though if a fire has spread to an internal wall cavity and is penetrating other areas through a penetration with fire block foam, we are likely talking about a house fully engulfed in flames. Any thoughts?
I should earn AIA CEU watching your videos.
Curious: I've got a crawlspace that is eave. What can I use to quiet noise and insulate that is rigid? I want to use rockwool on the inner wall cavity, but what to put over roofing joists without blocking air flow to ridge?
You can install anything with baffles stapled to the roof deck
We need this in California!!! Period!
Rockwool
How bout that Durock tho...
~7:00 silicone, not silicon. 11:07 Queen, not king, 17:50 Squirrel!
👍
Blue is better than pink
I noticed the omission of class 1/A rated cellulose insulation......which performs extremely well in fires..... and super cheap.
A quasi product placement for Aero Barrier,......a expensive patch for poor construction techniques......which they seem suspiciously interested in more than any of the other products.
A long drawn out explanation of how these tests are not really tests and we can draw very little conclusions from them, especially since they did not explain any results,...we saw a guy squirt water on a wall. No disrespect to the lady,...she knows her stuff and the short take away, she thought the tests were pretty much nonsense too.
And then we have a box that shows holes leak......with a one sentence description...….a high school level project about hydrostatic pressure.
All of which took almost 21 minutes to not explain in very much detail...……...all in all not very educational.
Maybe we will get lucky and he recorded the Joe listurbek presentation.
C-mon Matt,....get these people to step up their game.....you know what it takes to be a presenter. I am guessing the crowd was there to hear Joe speak and this was the side show.
The difference between natural asbestos and "safe" asbestos(rockwool) is the binder that's mix in the factory.
Does the burn degrade or brake down that binder?
the minerals rock wool fibers are made from can be broken down by the body unlike asbestos. still not good for the lungs like fiberglass.
From what I know about Rockwool. Asbestos was used to line the old versions of the product. They do not use any asbestos in or on Rockwool anymore. Rockwool is made from a glassy like slag that comes from melting steal. They grind it and extrude it kinda like fiberglass. There is however formaldehyde in Rockwool. But during the manufacturing process they cook it out. Only an insignificant amount may remain.
@@bigblackron asbestos is produced alot like a cotton candy rock, there a half dozen different kinds, it's more of a classification. But they're all inorganic so the body can't brake them down.
Rockwool is not asbestos, "safe" or otherwise. Asbestos is a group of 6 specific silicate minerals that are found naturally in a fibrous form. Asbestos fibres have specific properties (size, shape, and insolubility) that make them especially dangerous.
It's not the binder that makes them different. You aren't doing anyone a favour by conflating the two.
Burn test is silly.