The extra topper is definitely worth it, especially for 4-season use. Aside from keeping top of tent cleaner, it adds more heat retention inside the tent too. By creating that extra air gap layer above the tents roof. I use it every time now. Had one trip where no bad weather was forecast. 3 days later, storm rolled in. The tent was fine through the next 2 days of torrential rains, but the topper would have been nice. See this video of the storm: ruclips.net/video/Ty2LL12Ghdc/видео.html It's best if You have set the topper when initially setting up the tent. Due to extreme reach needed regarding height once tent is set upright.
@@MavHntr ok, thinking of getting it, I've heard that it can cause sag between the sides causing the door area to not be taught compromising the tension in the zippers area. Which would be a real pain if you are opening the door with one hand. I do see the benefits of keeping junk off the roof and protecting it from UV damage though.
The topper itself is a heavy weight for sure compared to tent roof. However, there are 2 rope lines, one on each side, of the topper. If you tension these down to the ground stake too much, could cause sag on side walls. The topper side ropes only need to be staked down until tight, don't over tension these 2 ropes. The heavy canvas weight of the topper will not allow it to move. This is another reason that I removed snowfall from off the tent/poly tarp in the video. extra weight of snow will cause tent sag too.
I have the 10x14 and after having to set it up on a GRAVEL site in April I finally invested in a cordless drill/driver and heavy duty threaded tent stakes. Total game changer on that part!
I have had two truck campers, they are just as much work if not more. He is by himself also and older so it takes him more effort. I have had many many campers and many tents. I’m much prefer a tent.
Nice camp for elk. Hopefully you were successful! I have the same tent and I too wish they had installed the grommets for the vestibule. But I am assuming they did not because the vestibule came later, ugh!
Forgot to mention, a pair of work gloves is recommended when handling the metal poles. These poles are electrical conduit, the edges where cut are somewhat smooth, but can still cut/slice your fingers or the Canvas material. So use caution of those pipe tent pole edges.
Ide wrap those ends of the pipes up with a little duct tape myself, prevent any cuts they can do. I dont own this tent but you do make it look like a comfy set up.
May have missed it in other videos but could you explain your airing out drying process afterwards? I was thinking of setting mine up inside my huge storage unit when I finish camping if it is wet when I leave camp...Only issue is my storage unit, although covered, is not climate controlled.
I will lay tent across 2 tables of 6' length. Sometimes styrene blocks inserted inside tent door openings to create better airflow. Tent material is above the garage floor, allowing air to circulate. Garage door open if I'm home but will work if garage door closed too, garages not being that airtight as the interior of the house. Now if I'm lucky with good sunny, warm weather, which is often in southern Cal, I will dry outside and using the 2 folding tables (6' Costco type). Or better, set the tent up outside, opening doors and windows when the weather and my time allows.
your storage unit is good. I did that in WA state, drying out my Kodiak tent before making the next trip. You just need some type of airflow. I generated air flow with electric fan on a timer.
Regarding the New Top Cover, on each side there is a rope-loop provided so as to stake down the topper to the ground for extra tension, holding in windy weather. Just use caution not to stake these 2 ropes down to the ground with too much tension. Just tight is good enough as the topper itself is heavy weight. Over tensioning these 2 ropes, resulting in pulling down the roof toward the ground, is not good causing tent sag. Another reason I removed snowfall from off the tent/poly tarp. Snow is heavy and would affect the tent by causing sagging, resulting in difficulty with operation of the tent's door zippers.
Used to have, but truck-camper has its downsides too. Recently considered a Mercedes-Sprint 4x4 camper van & my utility trailer with ATV. But can’t park it at either home. For me, it's the limiting HOA restrictions in my SoCal and Gilbert-AZ homes. Don't want to have monthly storage fees. It's like throwing $200 per month to the wind. Just something about tent camping that I enjoy. Reminds me of special times as a kid, camping with dad. Surely not as fast as setting up camp with a truck-Lance camper or my old Kit Companion 15 trailer, this I miss.
Great video! The grommet with material tearing away is very annoying. I'm about to install my grommets for the vestibule; any advice to prevent that issue? Haven't bought the tool yet...
I used a specific grommet tool. It worked great. However, after seeing the material tearing, I took the tent to a canvas repair shop. They redid my installed grommets, using extra canvas material, sewn in place, where the additional grommets would go. They applied the final touch, the grommet itself, using the same grommet tool that I used originally. Key is sewing extra material to reinforce the grommet installation. The original awning's 2 front corner grommets had this done from the factory as well.
@MavHntr I enjoy watching your videos about your setup. Is your Footprint/Ground Cloth the one that they sell at Kodiak Canvas? It appears to be slightly smaller than the bottom of your tent making it perfect size for your tent . (Rain won’t run down the side of the tent and pool under the tent between the footprint and the actual tent floor). Also it seems that you’ve regretted modifying your awning with additional grommets for the additional vestibule. What would you have differently? I’m also thinking about getting the top cover, it seems like a good idea.
No, ground tarp not from Kodiak. It's just a 10x8' heavy-duty tarp. It is important to size or fold a tarp so that it is smaller than tent's floor/footprint. As your comment indicated, to prevent the pooling of water between tarp and tent floor. Not that tent floor would leak, it doesn't. But keeping tent floor dry is easier to pack away for the trip home. Even then once home, I unroll tent and dry in the sun and air out in the fresh breezes. I had a sewing/sail making shop fix the grommets. They reinforced the material, added more stitching around my grommet install. Now it's great. Highly recommend the Top Tent Roof cover. Especially for the weather, material stain protection from tree sap etc. Helps too with keeping tent warmer in winter and cooler in summer as well.
All good but had to take tent/awning to a sail making shop to set those 3 additional grommets correctly. The awning material was separating, tearing at the new grommets after only 2 setups. The shop reinforced the extra grommets with extra material backing, stitching similar to the 2 original factory installed corner brackets. The 3rd grommet was one installed on the front flap of the awning to add tension with a paracord down to vestibule front stake. Helps steady the middle of awning front edge in windy conditions, no flapping. Just wish the Kodiak Tent factory would've installed these extra grommets for use with the optional front vestibule. The sail shop charge was just under $200 to fix.
@thomastaylor2513; Not on the 10x10 size. They only have the 2 corner awning grommets installed from the factory. If you only use these, the optional front vestibule will not flap over the tent awning front edge. This allows rain, debris into the vestibule/awning interior. See this video of that happening.... ruclips.net/video/Ty2LL12Ghdc/видео.html
since 1968 up through 2023, I have tagged 31 bulls and 4 cows. Back in the 1970's > 1980's, you could shoot any bull. We often passed on spikes & raghorns, hunting for a mature bull 5x5 or better. About 1991, regulated bull tags, ie draw permits, were put into effect in WA State and are still in effect today. Unless you drew an "Any Bull" tag, you were limited to spike bulls only. Of those 31 bulls tagged, 17 of those were spike bulls taken in years 2004>2021. Yes, I tagged out on spike bulls for 17 consecutive elk seasons. At my senior age, hunting elk is getting harder now. By that I mean the processing and packing elk meat out, especially solo as most of my elk hunt partners are gone to heaven or no longer hunt. Every elk season I miss my dad, the best elk hunting partner I ever had. It's been 15 years gone now, but I often sense his spirit with me when out in the elk woods. Regarding elk hunting...Do it while you are young.
Freight cost too much. Just used a local sail/canvas shop to repair. They scoffed at the Kodiak Tent Company instructions on how to add the extra grommets.
@@MavHntr👀... that's not a good sign. I bought a springbar 10 x 10 traveler and was considering taking my rainfly to a boat shop that makes custom boat covers, to make me a thermal waterproof rainfly to bounce the heat back from the sun. It'll probably be expensive but I've been thinking about it. It's certainly not something I could do myself.
Do you think the protective windbreaker top is worth it? would you use it every time ect?
The extra topper is definitely worth it, especially for 4-season use. Aside from keeping top of tent cleaner, it adds more heat retention inside the tent too. By creating that extra air gap layer above the tents roof.
I use it every time now. Had one trip where no bad weather was forecast. 3 days later, storm rolled in. The tent was fine through the next 2 days of torrential rains, but the topper would have been nice. See this video of the storm: ruclips.net/video/Ty2LL12Ghdc/видео.html
It's best if You have set the topper when initially setting up the tent. Due to extreme reach needed regarding height once tent is set upright.
@@MavHntr ok, thinking of getting it, I've heard that it can cause sag between the sides causing the door area to not be taught compromising the tension in the zippers area. Which would be a real pain if you are opening the door with one hand. I do see the benefits of keeping junk off the roof and protecting it from UV damage though.
The topper itself is a heavy weight for sure compared to tent roof. However, there are 2 rope lines, one on each side, of the topper. If you tension these down to the ground stake too much, could cause sag on side walls. The topper side ropes only need to be staked down until tight, don't over tension these 2 ropes. The heavy canvas weight of the topper will not allow it to move. This is another reason that I removed snowfall from off the tent/poly tarp in the video. extra weight of snow will cause tent sag too.
I have the 10x14 and after having to set it up on a GRAVEL site in April I finally invested in a cordless drill/driver and heavy duty threaded tent stakes. Total game changer on that part!
especially on flat graveled campsites or hardpan surfaces.
I have had two truck campers, they are just as much work if not more. He is by himself also and older so it takes him more effort. I have had many many campers and many tents. I’m much prefer a tent.
Nice camp for elk. Hopefully you were successful! I have the same tent and I too wish they had installed the grommets for the vestibule. But I am assuming they did not because the vestibule came later, ugh!
Forgot to mention, a pair of work gloves is recommended when handling the metal poles. These poles are electrical conduit, the edges where cut are somewhat smooth, but can still cut/slice your fingers or the Canvas material. So use caution of those pipe tent pole edges.
Ide wrap those ends of the pipes up with a little duct tape myself, prevent any cuts they can do. I dont own this tent but you do make it look like a comfy set up.
May have missed it in other videos but could you explain your airing out drying process afterwards? I was thinking of setting mine up inside my huge storage unit when I finish camping if it is wet when I leave camp...Only issue is my storage unit, although covered, is not climate controlled.
I will lay tent across 2 tables of 6' length. Sometimes styrene blocks inserted inside tent door openings to create better airflow. Tent material is above the garage floor, allowing air to circulate. Garage door open if I'm home but will work if garage door closed too, garages not being that airtight as the interior of the house. Now if I'm lucky with good sunny, warm weather, which is often in southern Cal, I will dry outside and using the 2 folding tables (6' Costco type).
Or better, set the tent up outside, opening doors and windows when the weather and my time allows.
your storage unit is good. I did that in WA state, drying out my Kodiak tent before making the next trip. You just need some type of airflow. I generated air flow with electric fan on a timer.
Regarding the New Top Cover, on each side there is a rope-loop provided so as to stake down the topper to the ground for extra tension, holding in windy weather. Just use caution not to stake these 2 ropes down to the ground with too much tension. Just tight is good enough as the topper itself is heavy weight. Over tensioning these 2 ropes, resulting in pulling down the roof toward the ground, is not good causing tent sag. Another reason I removed snowfall from off the tent/poly tarp. Snow is heavy and would affect the tent by causing sagging, resulting in difficulty with operation of the tent's door zippers.
If anyone needs a 4x4 truck with hard sided overhead truck camper, it would be you.
Used to have, but truck-camper has its downsides too. Recently considered a Mercedes-Sprint 4x4 camper van & my utility trailer with ATV. But can’t park it at either home. For me, it's the limiting HOA restrictions in my SoCal and Gilbert-AZ homes. Don't want to have monthly storage fees. It's like throwing $200 per month to the wind.
Just something about tent camping that I enjoy. Reminds me of special times as a kid, camping with dad.
Surely not as fast as setting up camp with a truck-Lance camper or my old Kit Companion 15 trailer, this I miss.
Great video! The grommet with material tearing away is very annoying. I'm about to install my grommets for the vestibule; any advice to prevent that issue? Haven't bought the tool yet...
I used a specific grommet tool. It worked great. However, after seeing the material tearing, I took the tent to a canvas repair shop. They redid my installed grommets, using extra canvas material, sewn in place, where the additional grommets would go. They applied the final touch, the grommet itself, using the same grommet tool that I used originally.
Key is sewing extra material to reinforce the grommet installation. The original awning's 2 front corner grommets had this done from the factory as well.
@MavHntr I enjoy watching your videos about your setup. Is your Footprint/Ground Cloth the one that they sell at Kodiak Canvas? It appears to be slightly smaller than the bottom of your tent making it perfect size for your tent . (Rain won’t run down the side of the tent and pool under the tent between the footprint and the actual tent floor). Also it seems that you’ve regretted modifying your awning with additional grommets for the additional vestibule. What would you have differently? I’m also thinking about getting the top cover, it seems like a good idea.
No, ground tarp not from Kodiak. It's just a 10x8' heavy-duty tarp. It is important to size or fold a tarp so that it is smaller than tent's floor/footprint. As your comment indicated, to prevent the pooling of water between tarp and tent floor. Not that tent floor would leak, it doesn't. But keeping tent floor dry is easier to pack away for the trip home. Even then once home, I unroll tent and dry in the sun and air out in the fresh breezes.
I had a sewing/sail making shop fix the grommets. They reinforced the material, added more stitching around my grommet install. Now it's great.
Highly recommend the Top Tent Roof cover. Especially for the weather, material stain protection from tree sap etc. Helps too with keeping tent warmer in winter and cooler in summer as well.
How is the extra bit of overhang from the awning onto the vestibule working out, now that you’ve installed the new grommets on the awning?
All good but had to take tent/awning to a sail making shop to set those 3 additional grommets correctly. The awning material was separating, tearing at the new grommets after only 2 setups. The shop reinforced the extra grommets with extra material backing, stitching similar to the 2 original factory installed corner brackets. The 3rd grommet was one installed on the front flap of the awning to add tension with a paracord down to vestibule front stake. Helps steady the middle of awning front edge in windy conditions, no flapping. Just wish the Kodiak Tent factory would've installed these extra grommets for use with the optional front vestibule. The sail shop charge was just under $200 to fix.
Kodiak is supposed to add those grommets
@thomastaylor2513; Not on the 10x10 size. They only have the 2 corner awning grommets installed from the factory. If you only use these, the optional front vestibule will not flap over the tent awning front edge. This allows rain, debris into the vestibule/awning interior. See this video of that happening....
ruclips.net/video/Ty2LL12Ghdc/видео.html
Thanks for your video.
It's very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Id love to hear how many you have bagged in all those years and what variety??
since 1968 up through 2023, I have tagged 31 bulls and 4 cows. Back in the 1970's > 1980's, you could shoot any bull. We often passed on spikes & raghorns, hunting for a mature bull 5x5 or better. About 1991, regulated bull tags, ie draw permits, were put into effect in WA State and are still in effect today. Unless you drew an "Any Bull" tag, you were limited to spike bulls only. Of those 31 bulls tagged, 17 of those were spike bulls taken in years 2004>2021. Yes, I tagged out on spike bulls for 17 consecutive elk seasons. At my senior age, hunting elk is getting harder now. By that I mean the processing and packing elk meat out, especially solo as most of my elk hunt partners are gone to heaven or no longer hunt.
Every elk season I miss my dad, the best elk hunting partner I ever had. It's been 15 years gone now, but I often sense his spirit with me when out in the elk woods.
Regarding elk hunting...Do it while you are young.
Send the tent back there will repair it for free
Freight cost too much. Just used a local sail/canvas shop to repair. They scoffed at the Kodiak Tent Company instructions on how to add the extra grommets.
@@MavHntr👀... that's not a good sign. I bought a springbar 10 x 10 traveler and was considering taking my rainfly to a boat shop that makes custom boat covers, to make me a thermal waterproof rainfly to bounce the heat back from the sun. It'll probably be expensive but I've been thinking about it. It's certainly not something I could do myself.