*I was able to use the stop to cut my pieces all the same **MyBest.Tools** Only let the blade come to a complete stop before lifting it back up otherwise it might 'catch' the work and inadvertently move the stop. Used a second clamp for holding.*
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ruclips.net/user/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
Very neat miter saw station, l like the magnet mechanism that you use for the space to be open depending on the angle you will cut. Great job!!! TFS!!! :)
Great build Shawn. I agree with Larry Joffe, I would love to see the video of you coming up with templates for the dust collection panels themselves. Great idea with the Poplar wood instead of Walnut. I've got to find some of that. Hope the wife and boys are doing well. Thank you for your videos and hard work. Keep em coming....
Dear Shawn, The process of modifying the poplar is called 'Torrefaction." Torrefied wood is first kiln dried and allowed to rest to finish stabilizing. It is then placed back in to a special oxygen free kiln and baked slow and long. This does not remove the sugars. Rather it crystallizes the various resins and caramelizes the sugar. This process make the wood much harder and denser, allowing faster growing softer woods to be used in areas we would generally prefer harder/denser wood. Two of the most common woods that are torrefied are maple and poplar. Of the various hardwood species, maple and poplar are both plentiful and relatively fast growing. They are also native to North America, making them ideal candidates for mass production of responsibly sourced hardwood. The maple is often used in place of babinga, rose wood, or jara for hand tool handles and fences. Poplar is commonly used for edge trimming and furniture framing. By using torrefied wood we are able to use what is already carefully grown and responsibly sourced, reducing demands for other more exotic woods, many of which have become endangered species in the last 40 years. For example, African Rosewood and African Ebony are both listed as highly endangered. Today, neither raw woods are allowed to be harvested or exported, and importing either to North America is a serious felony as of January 2017. Torrefied wood can be used instead, providing nearly identical structural properties., and very high ecological sustainability. Torrefied wood can also be sanded into a polished surface (600 to 1200 grit) that requires little to no finishing. The hardened resin and caramelized sugars act as a natural moisture barrier. The only finish you might want is a thing waxing to make the polished surface shine. No need for stain or top coatings (polys, shellac, etc.). If you wish to stain torrefied wood, allow it to soak in about 5 to 10 times longer than normal (keeping it wet during that time). This is because torrefied wood naturally resists most liquids, especially oils and water. Stains can penetrate, but very slowly and much more shallow than with dried wood -- hence the longer soaking time. Finally, there is no way of predicting or preventing "blotching" with torrefied wood, and is why in most cases it is simply sanded and buffed to a desired luster. Below are a few reference sites: thermallymodifiedwood.com/blog/what-is-torrefied-wood/ en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torrefaction www.sweetwater.com/insync/torrified/
@@StoneandSonsWorkshop Please feel free to use as you like. It is not "common knowledge." So your posting will help a ton. Always enjoy your posts and vids, and happy to help when I can. Sadly, I have a face perfect for radio and a voice made for news print (LOL -- i.e. I'm not making a video any time soon). Keep up the great work and easy Southern Gent attitude ... I'll be watching. ;-)
Love the design and project overall, but I really like the Quick Screws plug! I've been looking for something other the Kreg for a while so I'm glad to see a solid competitor in the pocket hole screw area.
Thank you Sean, check us out online or give us a call! Fun Fact: we were Kreg's original suppliers about 25 years ago before they started selling their own screws.
Interesting take on a very important piece of furniture for the shop. My only question: what do you do if you need to make a compound cut? With the enclosure around the miter saw, you can make your 45* cuts fine, but if you have a compound cut, it looks like you have to remove those enclosure pieces that are screwed from the inside. I also like how you did the drawer pulls. Thanks for the idea!
Glad you liked it. I rarely make compound cuts, but if I do it’s only a few screws. The removable panels allow full movement in both directions for mitered cuts.
I like the design, I wish you had gone into your dust collection for the saw. I thought maybe you had a shopvac under on the cart until the end of the video where it wasn't for dust collection. Now that you have the saw in an enclosed space how are you handling all of the dust? I have the same saw and am in dire need of a mitre saw station for a 1 car garage, I think this will fit my needs. Going to grab the plans and start building in the coming weeks. Thanks! Going to need to make mine moveable though.
Larry Joffe I’m about to start my new dust collection setup. I’ll have a dedicated port from my dust collector to the top of the dust box. I’m just concerned with the fine dust. I don’t mind the heavy dust settling in the back.
Love the clean look and contrasting handles. @6:09 I've found it better to put the pocket holes on the outside of drawer. First, more meat for the screw to bite into going the other direction. Second, looks: the holes are either hidden on the back of the drawer, or hidden on the front by the drawer front. Then you can tell people they're held together by magic.
Thanks! Ampletunes.com My friend Zack and another guy make their own music and allow creators to use it videos. Of course they accept donations or Patreon.
Thats pretty clean and easy station. Good job, glad I checked it out. I will be looking to upgrade my current set-up and I think I'll use the "build - up" method as well rather than the "drop down" center. Great minds think alike... :-)
I'm with Larry - how is it hooked up to your dust collection system? Underneath looked like the perfect spot for a shop-vac. Great design - thanks for sharing!
I’m in the process of getting a cyclone up and running and will soon be installing pipe. There will be a 6 inch port on top of the dust box. It will capture the fine dust, which is all I’m concerned with. The heavier particles will settle in the back of the box and I can clean that up every so often.
I will be purchasing these plans from you Shawn. Awesomely done bro. I'm looking to shave the cost quite a bit as 3/4 purebond costs about $54 out my way so I'm thinking use some regular plywood on some of it. What's your thoughts?
@@StoneandSonsWorkshop yeah I'm thinking the not so seen parts so can cut down on the cost a bit. Oh yeah thanks for the discount too man. Have a great day
I have noticed that every miter station leaves out the question of dust collection from underneath the miter saw base. Has anyone thought of this area?
Jay actually has his dust port underneath, but for me the top is where I’ll install the dust port. Mainly because I want the least resistance with bends and such. Plus, all I’m concerned with is the fine dust and a 6 inch port from the cyclone should take care of that.
You can find more details about the project and the plans here... stoneandsons.net/small-shop-miter-saw-station/ Also get the plans... stoneandsons.net/shop/miter-saw-station/
*I was able to use the stop to cut my pieces all the same **MyBest.Tools** Only let the blade come to a complete stop before lifting it back up otherwise it might 'catch' the work and inadvertently move the stop. Used a second clamp for holding.*
This is a valuable addition to my woodwork collection ruclips.net/user/postUgkxkNYRBJuiJ6EwD-tQSAlxg0eFKsnR2cgz I still will rate this woodwork plan as the best in my reference library. It always seem to stand out from the rest whenever you go through the library. This is a masterpiece.
Good to see you again Shawn. This is still on my list!
Thanks, Gary! It was on mine way too long before doing. lol
I have the same saw and I made a zero clearance plate for it and it really improved the cut quality.
I am building a miter saw station right now. I got some great ideas from this video. Thanks!
Awesome!
Great build very simple design yet completely functional. Well done.
Nice work
I like what you did here. I appreciate how you always maximize what you have as you upgrade along the way. Great job!
Thank you.
Great miter saw station Mr Stone. Looks awesome
Thank you!
Turned out great!
Thanks!
Good job on the miter saw station Shawn! Thanks for sharing the video.👍😎JP
Thanks for watching!!
Your very welcome Shawn!😎
Very neat miter saw station, l like the magnet mechanism that you use for the space to be open depending on the angle you will cut. Great job!!! TFS!!! :)
Pretty cool. I like the idea the magnetically-attached panels on each side of the saw. Great idea.
Thanks, Steve! It’s working out pretty good so far.
Nice Miter Saw Station for small shops, Shawn! This gives me some ideas to build on for my basement shop. Thanks for the video!
Thanks, Dave. Glad you liked it.
Well done. Particularly, I really dig the dust collection attachments that you fabricated. Keep up the great work! Cheers
Thank you!
Great looking cabinet! I like the magnets on the wing plates cool idea. I really love seeing Old Glory on the shop apron!
Thanks!
I really like the double-panel idea!
It's working out great!
This in very nice. Yes, cubby boxes will come in handy.
For sure! Thanks!
I like it small and simple design. thanks for sharing
Kevin Overholt thanks for watching.
Very nice Shawn. This sparked some ideas for my own miter saw station design I’ve been working on for the new shop. Great video my friend!
Thanks man!!
Very Nice
Realy like the dark wood details
Thanks! I like it too.
nice project man
JURO Workshop thanks!
Sweet miter saw station. Love the channel. Best of luck to you sir!!!
Thank you! Glad you liked it.
Nice work, bud! This is on my list to do,
Thanks Del!
Great build Shawn. I agree with Larry Joffe, I would love to see the video of you coming up with templates for the dust collection panels themselves. Great idea with the Poplar wood instead of Walnut. I've got to find some of that. Hope the wife and boys are doing well. Thank you for your videos and hard work. Keep em coming....
I will definitely get to that. I will make a separate video on that.
This is great info, just what I was looking for. I need to build something similar for my small garage shop. Thanks!
Perfect! Thanks for watching.
Dear Shawn,
The process of modifying the poplar is called 'Torrefaction." Torrefied wood is first kiln dried and allowed to rest to finish stabilizing. It is then placed back in to a special oxygen free kiln and baked slow and long. This does not remove the sugars. Rather it crystallizes the various resins and caramelizes the sugar. This process make the wood much harder and denser, allowing faster growing softer woods to be used in areas we would generally prefer harder/denser wood.
Two of the most common woods that are torrefied are maple and poplar. Of the various hardwood species, maple and poplar are both plentiful and relatively fast growing. They are also native to North America, making them ideal candidates for mass production of responsibly sourced hardwood. The maple is often used in place of babinga, rose wood, or jara for hand tool handles and fences. Poplar is commonly used for edge trimming and furniture framing.
By using torrefied wood we are able to use what is already carefully grown and responsibly sourced, reducing demands for other more exotic woods, many of which have become endangered species in the last 40 years. For example, African Rosewood and African Ebony are both listed as highly endangered. Today, neither raw woods are allowed to be harvested or exported, and importing either to North America is a serious felony as of January 2017.
Torrefied wood can be used instead, providing nearly identical structural properties., and very high ecological sustainability. Torrefied wood can also be sanded into a polished surface (600 to 1200 grit) that requires little to no finishing. The hardened resin and caramelized sugars act as a natural moisture barrier. The only finish you might want is a thing waxing to make the polished surface shine. No need for stain or top coatings (polys, shellac, etc.).
If you wish to stain torrefied wood, allow it to soak in about 5 to 10 times longer than normal (keeping it wet during that time). This is because torrefied wood naturally resists most liquids, especially oils and water. Stains can penetrate, but very slowly and much more shallow than with dried wood -- hence the longer soaking time. Finally, there is no way of predicting or preventing "blotching" with torrefied wood, and is why in most cases it is simply sanded and buffed to a desired luster.
Below are a few reference sites:
thermallymodifiedwood.com/blog/what-is-torrefied-wood/
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torrefaction
www.sweetwater.com/insync/torrified/
WOW! Great comment! Thanks so much for explaining that, a lot of info. 👍
If you don't mind I'm going to copy this to my website article. I'll credit you. Thanks so much!!
@@StoneandSonsWorkshop Please feel free to use as you like. It is not "common knowledge." So your posting will help a ton. Always enjoy your posts and vids, and happy to help when I can. Sadly, I have a face perfect for radio and a voice made for news print (LOL -- i.e. I'm not making a video any time soon). Keep up the great work and easy Southern Gent attitude ... I'll be watching. ;-)
Nice
Ive ejoyed watching you work great skills you have.
Love the design and project overall, but I really like the Quick Screws plug! I've been looking for something other the Kreg for a while so I'm glad to see a solid competitor in the pocket hole screw area.
Thanks!! It really is a great kit.
Thank you Sean, check us out online or give us a call! Fun Fact: we were Kreg's original suppliers about 25 years ago before they started selling their own screws.
Interesting take on a very important piece of furniture for the shop. My only question: what do you do if you need to make a compound cut? With the enclosure around the miter saw, you can make your 45* cuts fine, but if you have a compound cut, it looks like you have to remove those enclosure pieces that are screwed from the inside.
I also like how you did the drawer pulls. Thanks for the idea!
Glad you liked it. I rarely make compound cuts, but if I do it’s only a few screws. The removable panels allow full movement in both directions for mitered cuts.
I like the design, I wish you had gone into your dust collection for the saw. I thought maybe you had a shopvac under on the cart until the end of the video where it wasn't for dust collection. Now that you have the saw in an enclosed space how are you handling all of the dust? I have the same saw and am in dire need of a mitre saw station for a 1 car garage, I think this will fit my needs. Going to grab the plans and start building in the coming weeks. Thanks! Going to need to make mine moveable though.
Larry Joffe I’m about to start my new dust collection setup. I’ll have a dedicated port from my dust collector to the top of the dust box. I’m just concerned with the fine dust. I don’t mind the heavy dust settling in the back.
Love the clean look and contrasting handles. @6:09 I've found it better to put the pocket holes on the outside of drawer. First, more meat for the screw to bite into going the other direction. Second, looks: the holes are either hidden on the back of the drawer, or hidden on the front by the drawer front. Then you can tell people they're held together by magic.
Lol! Yeah, tons of ways to do it. Thanks for watching!
Normally I don't care for music with my videos, but I was diggin it. Turned up the sound even. Where's the music from?
Thanks! Ampletunes.com My friend Zack and another guy make their own music and allow creators to use it videos. Of course they accept donations or Patreon.
Do you have a vacuum set into the dust-collecting space?
Thats pretty clean and easy station. Good job, glad I checked it out. I will be looking to upgrade my current set-up and I think I'll use the "build - up" method as well rather than the "drop down" center. Great minds think alike... :-)
For some reason I can't go to your links. Is your Miter Saw a Metabo? If so I would like to get the plans somehow.
like the front miter panels -- is there space to do bevel cuts with the panels ? nice job
On one side.
I'm with Larry - how is it hooked up to your dust collection system? Underneath looked like the perfect spot for a shop-vac. Great design - thanks for sharing!
I’m in the process of getting a cyclone up and running and will soon be installing pipe. There will be a 6 inch port on top of the dust box. It will capture the fine dust, which is all I’m concerned with. The heavier particles will settle in the back of the box and I can clean that up every so often.
Did you come up with the idea for the different panels for dust collection or did you take the idea from Bob at "I like to make stuff"?
I did this on my own. I'll have to go check his out. I've seen others do similar things, but I just made mine on the fly as I went.
is there a hole cut out behind the saw hooked up to a vacuum that is under the saw ?
There is a hole cut out, but it’s in the top of the dust box connected to a cyclone dust collector
Looks very nice. How do you like the Hitachi miter saw?
Love it!
I have a question. I just built my mitter station in my garage. Should I seal the wood
Was that a second miter saw? In the lower, right pull out drawer?
Yes, it was. It’s a small cordless one. (Craftsman)
I sure do love my Kreg Pocket Hole Jig, but these screws are soooooooooo much more affordable than the Kreg screws. I just placed an order.
very cool station set up....i really dig that apron.where did you get it ?
Thanks! My apron is an Atlas 46 brand. Here's an affiliate link... bit.ly/stone_atlas46
I will be purchasing these plans from you Shawn. Awesomely done bro. I'm looking to shave the cost quite a bit as 3/4 purebond costs about $54 out my way so I'm thinking use some regular plywood on some of it. What's your thoughts?
Thanks for the support! Regular plywood would be perfectly fine to use. I think it's just a matter of preference.
@@StoneandSonsWorkshop yeah I'm thinking the not so seen parts so can cut down on the cost a bit. Oh yeah thanks for the discount too man. Have a great day
@@randywright7933 the Radiata pine ply from home depot is a great cost alternative.
@@thedrizz1913 thank you for that info. I'll look it up
Hi Shawn, how do you like your Craftsman drill? Any issues?
So far so good. I like them.
Website is down.
I have noticed that every miter station leaves out the question of dust collection from underneath the miter saw base.
Has anyone thought of this area?
Jay actually has his dust port underneath, but for me the top is where I’ll install the dust port. Mainly because I want the least resistance with bends and such. Plus, all I’m concerned with is the fine dust and a 6 inch port from the cyclone should take care of that.
You can find more details about the project and the plans here... stoneandsons.net/small-shop-miter-saw-station/ Also get the plans... stoneandsons.net/shop/miter-saw-station/
😃👍🏻👊🏻
👊
music is annoying and sucks